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will say its easy to drive and is slow. They're wrong. You need to find that
line. Pretty hard.
That's pretty much it....other cars to quickly mention are:
-Ford GT(Fast as hell but too expensive.)
-180SX(simple to beat the game with)
-Chaser(best starter from what people say)
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3)ENGINE:
-a)Swaps:
It's easier to explain this one by one. Some engines are not mentioned since
they're pretty much useless.
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Stock:
This engine more likely has something the swaps don't. Usually its lighter or
one of a kind. The Ford GT I believe can gain up to 750ps, which no engine can
do. Others I know of are:
-Silvia S15: has a 6 speed L4 Turbo. Weird thing is, the L6 swap for it is
unbelievably lame and the L4 swap is a 5 speed.
-Mercedes S600L and :Its loaded with a V12 engine.
-Viper GTS: It has a V10 inside it.
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NA:
-V8: Hell I wouldn't have a NA secion but this engine is something. When you
compare it to a V8 Turbo, it has a 6 speed,is lighter, and has Torque to
support it properly.
-RE: It's a 6 speed and was made for the RX-8. Just has more power than stock.
This is heavier so the car may experience a bit more understeer. Think before
you buy it.
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Turbo:
-L4:Has a wide powerband and its light. Sure its a 5 speed but it's capable of
good times like under 4 minutes in C1 with the right car.
-L6:This was said to be the best swap. I disagree. Its the fastest straight
away engine but it's handling can be beaten.
-V6:This engine has good response but heavy. Very...average....
-V8: Highest horsepower but has no torque to support it. 5 speed's gearing is
horrible. Pretty stable....and big.
-F4:Best track engine. It may be heavier,and have less power and torque, but it
conatins a 5 speed and its low center of gravity makes it handle perfectly.
-F6: Its a F4 with low end torque. Odd thing is it can get high speeds easy
with lighter cars and still keep smooth torque. It has less power and is
heavier than the L4 but you'll notice the low end torque.
-RE:Truthfully, this engine was only made for the RX-7's. They work PERFECTLY
with them since they're based off a 50/50 weight balance. It does add more
weight to the front but that's good so the car's are more stable to handle the
power increase. Lightest engine of all turbo swaps
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-b)Tuning:
The only thing that you can really tune are the turbo engines by controlling
their boost. By increasing boost, you get more high end power and your car
heats up faster. And by doing that, you lose compression, which gives more
low end power and makes the engine heat up less. Simple chart if you were
setting the amount:
0 1 2 3
Compression <--- Boost
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Low end power; ---> High end power;
Engine doesn't heat Quicker heat up.
up as fast.
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4)BRAKES:
Before you start, I recommend you get brake set Level 4 instead of 5. If you
read the descriptions, they are both race type designs. Just that Level 5 is
bigger overall, adding weight. Sure Level 4 feels lose, but you'll adjust.
Adjusting the brakes is pretty simple. Using the brake controller you can change
the amount of braking power. More power in the rear makes the car oversteer and
vise versa for the front. This is noticeable when you brake. Also, the less
overall braking power, the faster the accelerration, but braking will take
longer.
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5)SUSPENSION:
This isn't an easy one to figure out. So to to start off, the bias of rates
between front and rear are that if the front has a higher rate, oversteer.
If the rear has a higher rate, stability. Then stiffness; the stiffer the less
roll. The looser the less resistance.
Chart:
("a" is for the ideal track setup)
("b" is for the ideal drag/wangan setup)
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