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Ulyana Sergeenko
|
fall-2013-couture
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2013-couture/ulyana-sergeenko
|
After collections devoted to Russian fairy tales and American literature, Ulyana Sergeenko turned to orthodox architecture and priests' vestments as inspiration for her third couture show. Bell silhouettes replaced the wasp-waists of her recent outings, ruffled collars grazed the chin, and arms more often than not were covered. Deep pleats, dense wools, and an abundance of black and charcoal gray added a certain austerity to the proceedings, alleviated by a pair of cardinal-red dresses and another in absinthe-green silk velvet.Sergeenko makes no apologies for her love of native dress. On the contrary, she sees it as a strength, creating detailed mood books for each season thick with clippings of paintings, photographs, and other artifacts. She's got a strong signature, and certainly there are women in the couture crowd who approach dressing with a similar kind of drama. But to others her clothes look likes costumes. They're right, up to a point. Still, it's worth taking a closer look at what she does. The pleats on the back of one gray frock are dotted with tiny river pearls embroidered with orangey-red thread; the effect is fairly enchanting. And the neckline of a black frock is painstakingly yoked in Vologda lace. A three-quarter-sleeve blouse in the stuff will cost a small fortune, but without Sergeenko or another obsessive like her, the centuries-old technique stands a good chance of dying out.Does the collection at times lack finesse? Sure. And is it presumptuous for Sergeenko, who is untrained, to present on the same schedule as masters like Lagerfeld and Lacroix? Well, yes. But if France's petites mains are worth celebrating and saving, then certainly so are Russia's. Back in Sergeenko's temporary Paris showroom, there's a capsule collection of ready-to-wear that she's made at retailers' requests. Silk blouses and dresses reinterpreting her theme look utterly wearable and sweetly charming.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
July 1, 2013
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6511b08298d8be21ba1f0/master/w_1280,c_limit/MARC0019.1366x2048.JPG"
] |
fall
|
2013
|
couture
|
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|
Ulyana Sergeenko
|
spring-2013-couture
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2013-couture/ulyana-sergeenko
|
"Gone With the Wind, the Headless Horseman, Huck Finn—it's our American collection," Ulyana Sergeenko said before her second Couture show today. Having explored her Russian roots at her debut in July, Sergeenko was eager to surprise. If nothing else, the U.S. contingent was amused by a soundtrack that ranged fromThe Wizard of OztoDjango UnchainedtoRocky. There wasn't a bad tune in the lot, but their cumulative effect bordered on kitsch.Sergeenko's clothes are unapologetically theatrical. Scarlett O'Hara's widow's weeds made an appearance, as did her famous green curtain dress. One model carried a bindle down the Théâtre Marigny runway, and another hitched a wooden slingshot into her belt. To some, the Russian is better suited to Hollywood back lots than to Paris haute couture. Certainly, outfits like a corseted velvet onesie and taffeta balloon cape, or a ball skirt worn with nothing but a pointy bra, seemed self-indulgent. The mistakes of a neophyte.But not so fast. The buttons nipping up the back of gowns were porcelain, hand-painted with characters out of Russian nursery rhymes, and delicate crocheted embroideries were inset like cameos into sweet silk blouses. If Sergeenko can hone that sense of subtlety and nurture her wild devotion to detail, she just might make a designer out of herself yet.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
January 21, 2013
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6510808298d8be21a4b2b/master/w_1280,c_limit/0005_ARC9555.1366x2048.JPG"
] |
spring
|
2013
|
couture
|
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] |
|
Uma Wang
|
spring-2025-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/uma-wang
|
For spring, Uma Wang said she wanted to focus on what remains after everything extraneous is stripped away. Her main inspiration, she added, was the recent retrospective on Constantin Brancuși at the Centre Pompidou.“I loved what he did with different materials, putting together stone, marble and mirrors,” Wang offered backstage before the show. “The exhibition was so incredible, I immediately wanted to transpose it and find that balance, but then also something different with the details,” she said. Her goal, she added, was to pare back and approach clothing as if it were a sculpture or birds floating on mirror ponds.The lighting in the American Cathedral threw draped effects, unusual fabric treatments and glinting mirror accessories into dramatic relief. Some prints, including a floral from Wang’s early archives, looked as if they had been plucked from a French herbarium, but the designer left backs bare to amp up sensuality. “Showing skin is more feminine,” she noted.Sculptural silhouettes appeared to reinterpret toga styles to dramatic effect, or to splice a New Look-style peplum, held aloft with burgundy tulle, with a sleek black evening sheath. Textural effects included shiny laminates, waxing and jacquards treated inside out, their threads teased into shags. “I want people to see how beautiful the back is, it’s like an art piece,” Wang said. “I like an element of surprise, of doing something a little bit wrong. If everything is correct, that’s just boring.” Also new to her repertoire was an earthy, cocoa palette that the designer deemed adaptable to all seasons.Seated in the front row, Suzi de Givenchy described Wang as the epitome of the modern Chinese woman. “She's fierce and strong and really embracing what she sees as beauty, which is something you don’t really see that often,” she said. “Uma’s reserved, but when she speaks you can really feel her power.” The clothes, too, spoke volumes.
|
Tina Isaac-Goizé
|
September 27, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/66f584eb15f1394748def0da/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-uma-wang-spring-2025-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2025
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Uma Wang
|
fall-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-ready-to-wear/uma-wang
|
Though there’s a strong undercurrent of nostalgia on the runways of late, Uma Wang said that she wanted to express ideas about the past in the most abstract way possible.“Normally I travel before a collection, but this time I wanted to let my customer travel with me,” she said backstage before her fall outing.Likening her process to the river of memory—from the Renaissance masters she favors to a stroll through a flea market or the imprint of a body on pillows—the designer described sampling fragments of the past and letting them flow into new ideas about the future.In a way, it was also about taking stock after 15 years in the business. “It’s all connected,” she offered, adding, “I also wanted to show that we don’t just do romantic long dresses; I wanted to take things forward with shapes and fabrics that have a strong personality. So it’s everything I’ve been and everything I still want to become.”Whereas in the past Wang has seized on a single inspiration, this season she wanted to focus just on silhouette, shape, and clothes. On the runway, a rich palette of lush-looking fabrics was worked into cocoon-like shapes—for example, in oversized coats and capes in black or antiqued gold and in jackets in patinated brocade or destroyed camouflage. The pillow idea manifested quite literally on a couple of numbers, including one that led a section of looks in the season’s agenda-setting burgundy. It appeared again on a chocolate-colored dress that seemed to be made of memory fabric, a trend that has been cropping up for both men and women this season.Clearly, Wang masters tailoring, but while many of these exaggerated shapes seemed at home amid the dramatic setting of the American Cathedral in Paris, what remains to be seen is how they will be revisited to fit the real world.
|
Tina Isaac-Goizé
|
March 1, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/65e1ba24c48687c88e37ae7d/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-uma-wang-fall-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Uma Wang
|
spring-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/uma-wang
|
Uma Wang is the best advocate for her wabi-sabi fashion proposal. Blessed with a relaxed sense of style that nevertheless spells polish, she always cuts an elegant figure when she appears at the end of the runway to take her bow. At today’s show, held in the 19th-century former headquarters of BNP Paribas bank, she looked characteristically at ease, dressed in a sloppy, paint-speckled silk shirt and faded, wide-leg pants, her glossy black hair bobbing as she fielded questions backstage. The location played into Wang’s fascination with dilapidation: BNP Paribas recently quit the building, leaving it with a forlorn air of humbled grandeur.For spring, she had been inspired by memories of Venice. A frequent traveler to Italy, where the Shanghai-based designer’s clothes are produced, Wang spoke backstage of the outlines of crumbling arches, the salty smell of the laguna, the water marks on the walls combining to create a Venice-specific mood of “melancholy.” “Everything is so humid there,” she said, “the colors are always changing, the walls are fading.” Her collection had that same poetic sense of attenuation, conveyed via midiskirts that were crinkled like discarded paper bags, in raw-edged brocade corset tops, in trailing silk dresses. Most interesting was a tapestry-like fabric that had been shredded in undulating waves, as though it had been hanging in a window at the Palazzo Fortuny, only to be attacked by a pack of moths, synchronized in their munching.Despite these experiments with fabric and form, Wang’s personal style lent the collection a welcome dose of wearability. Linen tailoring in faded cream and gray that was gathered at the hip had a slouchy appeal, as did an artsy handkerchief-hemmed silk shirt-and-skirt combination in moody blue (it helped that it was worn by the striking 56-year-old, gray-haired model Sylke Golding, who also walks for Balenciaga). Equally appreciated was the addition of pockets in a silk maxidress, which paired neatly with an oversize blazer. Grown-up fans of grunge will find much to like here.
|
Ellie Pithers
|
September 28, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/65154fafe290635c94ae89e0/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-uma-wang-spring-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Uma Wang
|
fall-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/uma-wang
|
The Shanghai-based designer Uma Wang staged her last physical catwalk show in September 2019 at the American Cathedral in Paris, with a collection inspired by the instantaneous demise of the Roman city Pompeii. It proved eerily prescient: the Covid-19 pandemic has kept her, if not quite frozen in time, then stationed in China ever since, with fall 2023 constituting her first show for three-and-a-half years. She wanted to come back to the American Cathedral, she said, because it was a “meaningful way to start again.”Starting again meant employing new materials she had never previously explored. A fabric nerd, Wang’s background in knitwear, and later her experience working at a weaving factory in China, has heavily influenced her collections. “I start with fabric,” she shrugged, backstage after the show. “It’s the most emotional part. When I see the fabric, I have a feeling. I can’t start with shape or style.” She went big on texture for fall, embracing faux fur for the first time, presented alongside shiny coated linens she said had been “plastified,” thick boiled and felted wools, heavy velvet and tapestry-type cottons developed with her longstanding Italian suppliers. She also dabbled in denim, which was treated to give it a worn-in quality. “It’s the Uma Wang wabi-sabi mood, something broken, something from a vintage market, all the ideas I put together,” she said.Unhelpful though it is to point out, the photographs don’t do the fabrics justice—you need to see them up close. They gave the oversized double-breasted coats, the body-swamping gilets and the languid knit dresses a precious, romantic quality. That feeling was heightened by sculptural gold jewelry which Wang makes with a jeweler in Japan, with whom she’s collaborated for years. Comprising a series of hammered gold hoops which looped around the body standing proud from the torso and neck (something else that’s difficult to appreciate from photographs) they were inspired by the ancient cave paintings in Matera, Italy, where figures were depicted with haloes of gold around their heads. Though Wang didn’t want to veer into the religious, they injected the collection with a celestial energy. It’s certainly good to have her back in Paris.
|
Ellie Pithers
|
March 3, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6400ea83f657c19072f9863d/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-uma-wang-fall-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Uma Wang
|
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/uma-wang
|
In fashion, as in politics these days, it often feels as if there are no adults in the room, leaving the void to be filled by spin doctors, some experts, and number crunchers. Welcome Uma Wang, whose spring collection was a show of strength inspired by nature.A bit about the designer: Born Wang Zhi in Hebei, China, she studied in Shanghai at Donghua University and at Central Saint Martins. Wang formed her own label in 2009 and became the first Chinese designer to show on the European fashion calendar, paving the way for others, and in 2022 became a member of La Chambre Syndicale de la Mode Feminine.Presented digitally, Wang’s spring 2023 collection, like many others, was inspired by the possibility of travel following lockdowns, and the force and magnetic pull of nature. The designer experienced that firsthand during a recent visit to North Africa.The neutral palette conjured the serene eternity of desert sands; coffee dye gave an earthiness to some of the materials. The second look was created from one length of a metal and cotton fabric that resembles tree bark. Sheer nylon was used, said Wang on a call, to evoke “a white cloud in the sky.” Just as Wang harnessed different natural elements—sky and earth, for example—so she combined menswear touches with soft draping,flou, and structure.This collection read as mature as opposed to trendy because of the clarity of Wang’s vision, which is largely derived from her passion for materials. The designer works closely with Italian mills creating incredible, often textural fabrics, which help to inform the silhouettes. For spring, Wang borrowed from the world of interiors a frayed cotton meant to evoke a woman wearing something she found at an antiques market. This amazing textile spoke to the “undone and distressed” themes of the season, but more so to the feeling of connection to history and culture that informs Wang’s work. There was an ’80s boldness to menswear-inspired coats, jackets, and sleeves, for example. The square-toe shoes were inspired by those worn during the Ming Dynasty. The styling of the necklaces and hats, which veered toward the appropriative, tripped up a narrative that otherwise felt like a true fusion of elements relating to culture, history, and gender forged into something new. A geometric pyramid pattern could have been a reference to African textile traditions or Secessionist ones.In her show notes, Wang wrote of nature existing beyond boundary and taboo; she associates wilderness with freedom (mobile and spiritual). The humility one feels in the face of the natural world finds a parallel in the designer’s respect for textiles and craft, but otherwise this collection, which showcased Wang’s formidable talents, celebrated the power of a woman, giving her the option to stand strong, proud, free with the sturdiness of a tree or the gentleness of a cloud.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
September 29, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6334778b7764ce1485e77ff6/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-uma-wang-spring-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Use Unused
|
berlin-fall-2015
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/berlin-fall-2015/use-unused
|
Founders: Eszter Füzes, Attila Godena-Juhász, and András TóthYear established: 2004Known for: Hungarian heritage references for slinky cocktail womenswearStocked at: Milk (Los Angeles), Galeries Lafayette (Beijing), Tangerine (Chicago)Fall 2015 inspiration: Japanese intellectuals
|
Ana Finel Honigman
|
January 22, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c651d308298d8be228b7ae/master/w_1280,c_limit/_AG18162.jpg"
] |
berlin
|
fall
|
2015
|
[
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] |
|
Oude Waag
|
shanghai-fall-2024
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/shanghai-fall-2024/oude-waag
|
Just over a month ago, Megan Thee Stallion wore a look from Jingwei Yin’s spring 2024 collection for Oude Waag to the Clive Davis Pre-Grammy Gala. “I was very surprised and very inspired,” said Yin over the phone in the lead up to his fall show. “She gave more power to that outfit, and gave me a new dimension to explore different types of bodies.”Yin is a designer beguiled by the human form. His sinuous, buoyant drapes and considered cuts are meant to both conceal and exalt a woman’s shape. “The Chinese market considers Oude Waag a sexy brand,” said the designer, “but in the Western market when you talk about sexiness, it’s more direct and very straightforward. My work is about showing the body in a very subtle way.” OudeWaag is sexy, surely, but its sensuality is nuanced and complex. It hinges less on uncovering the body and more on the tension with which Yin envelops it. This is a Chinese designer American buyers should pay close attention to.Yin said that he was thinking of fireworks this season, of their paradoxical nature as a symbol of both unifying celebration and perilous weaponry. “It’s a reaction to the world, or to myself,” said Yin. “We have Chinese New Year in January, and it’s all about celebrations, but on the other hand, the market is unpredictable, as is the whole world at the moment.” Yin’s resolve, he said, was to bring “elegance and strength in the face of difficult times.”That much he delivered in spades. What Yin can do with jersey around the body is in a class of its own in terms of gravity defiance—see a piece of black fabric fashioned in the front as a bodysuit and skirt and draped into a seamless cape in the back, or the way he swaddled the body with an overextended sleeve draped into a maxi wrap dress. But this season he stretched further, contrasting these wispy, slinky outbursts with explosive winding drapes in heavier metallic materials and shaggy touches of shearling. His tailored jackets remained razor sharp at the shoulders, but he ventured into new territory in his coats. The cocooning wrap silhouettes recalled both Cristóbal Balenciaga and Azzedine Alaïa in cut and spirit, but looked utterly contemporary in proportions and fabrications.Still, Yin is most impressive when he’s at his most subtle. A deceptively simple look appears to be a halter blouse styled over a skirt in the front, but turns out to be a single piece of fabric folded over itself and held together by a single seam in the back—equal parts magic trick and technical feat. This is where experience matters most. Shanghai Fashion Week is exciting for its young talents with extravagant ideas and magpie collections, but Yin provides focus and restraint. His counterparts should watch him closely.
|
José Criales-Unzueta
|
March 28, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/66056b5cf385583a7c7a1044/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-oude-waag-fall-2024-ready-to-wear-shanghai-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
shanghai
|
fall
|
2024
|
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]
] |
|
Our Legacy
|
fall-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-ready-to-wear/our-legacy
|
Cooking is a new-ish passion for Our Legacy’s Christopher Nying, who grew up in a home where food was an expression of love. He spread theamorethis season by taking over a restaurant in Milan and preparing a meal for a gathering of friends and colleagues. His fall collection, called Feast, was similarly hospitable. You can always count on OL for a perfect jacket, leather toppers, unusual knits, and great separates for layering, and they were all there, rendered in the colors of various earthy fungi. While the menu of offerings remained familiar, Nying made many subtle and savory changes to his “recipes.”This collection, said the designer on a call, was the second part of a story that started in 2019 with the brand’sChambre Séparée collection, which was presented at Stockholm’s upscale Café Opera and had a theme of “youth depravation in a bourgeois setting.” Feast was imagined as a more “proletariat” rehearsal dinner in an industrial space with plastic chairs. Iterating on Beate and Heinz Rose’s 1972 photography bookPaare(a copy of which was used as a prop) that documented West German couples of all ages and backgrounds against white backdrops, Nying similarly worked with a cast of all ages and positioned them together against the chalky walls. He extended the idea of a motley crew into an eclectic offering that delighted in the details. The designer called out women’s look 6 and men’s look 29 as being exemplars of the season. He wears creased track pants and a hoodie that have the look of acid-washed denim with a white shirt, leather tie, and sharp black blazer. She has on a long slip dress in a soft blue plaid (a deliberate grunge reference) with an almost-tunic-length thick beige sweater and carries a black leather clutch and gloves. Her hair is held back not with hair pins but tie clips, a superb example of Nying’s attention to detail and the deep vein of tenderness that runs through his work.“Imagine what happens if you remove the tie or remove the glasses or the gloves—[elements] which in my head are quite formal—you become someone else,” said the designer, who noted that he was also focused on “homely things.” And so a simple plastic bread clip was rendered as a silver pendant; the same metal was used for delicate lacy accessories inspired by Swedish pantry shelf trims. The lace made into garments was meant to reference curtains, and within the context of the theme, slip shapes became apron-like. There wasn’t a great distance between interiors and interiority chez Our Legacy this season—nor is there any season, for that matter. The brand’s special sauce is making quality, not-quite classic clothing that has a throwaway, anti-fashion glamour. (Effortlessness, in fashion-speak.) Not showy in any way, OL makes pieces that you buy for yourself to amplify your individuality as well as indie credibility.As Our Legacy shows in Milan, in a predominantly Catholic country: this editor was tempted to think of The Last Supper, but that wasn’t one of Nying’s references. Feasts are, however, secular rituals, and in such divisive times, OL’s impulse to deconstruct the formality of the feast (as well as that of the wardrobe) and focus on coming together seemed both humanistic and spot-on. Food, after all, is a form of diplomacy. As it’s written in the New Testament, “It’s hard to remain enemies when you’ve broken bread together.”
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
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January 13, 2024
|
[
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] |
fall
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
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|
Our Legacy
|
fall-2024-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-menswear/our-legacy
|
Cooking is a new-ish passion for Our Legacy’s Christopher Nying, who grew up in a home where food was an expression of love. He spread theamorethis season by taking over a restaurant in Milan and preparing a meal for a gathering of friends and colleagues. His fall collection, called Feast, was similarly hospitable. You can always count on OL for a perfect jacket, leather toppers, unusual knits, and great separates for layering, and they were all there, rendered in the colors of various earthy fungi. While the menu of offerings remained familiar, Nying made many subtle and savory changes to his “recipes.”This collection, said the designer on a call, was the second part of a story that started in 2019 with the brand’sChambre Séparée collection, which was presented at Stockholm’s upscale Café Opera and had a theme of “youth depravation in a bourgeois setting.” Feast was imagined as a more “proletariat” rehearsal dinner in an industrial space with plastic chairs. Iterating on Beate and Heinz Rose’s 1972 photography bookPaare(a copy of which was used as a prop) that documented West German couples of all ages and backgrounds against white backdrops, Nying similarly worked with a cast of all ages and positioned them together against the chalky walls. He extended the idea of a motley crew into an eclectic offering that delighted in the details. The designer called out women’s look 6 and men’s look 29 as being exemplars of the season. He wears creased track pants and a hoodie that have the look of acid-washed denim with a white shirt, leather tie, and sharp black blazer. She has on a long slip dress in a soft blue plaid (a deliberate grunge reference) with an almost-tunic-length thick beige sweater and carries a black leather clutch and gloves. Her hair is held back not with hair pins but tie clips, a superb example of Nying’s attention to detail and the deep vein of tenderness that runs through his work.“Imagine what happens if you remove the tie or remove the glasses or the gloves—[elements] which in my head are quite formal—you become someone else,” said the designer, who noted that he was also focused on “homely things.” And so a simple plastic bread clip was rendered as a silver pendant; the same metal was used for delicate lacy accessories inspired by Swedish pantry shelf trims. The lace made into garments was meant to reference curtains, and within the context of the theme, slip shapes became apron-like. There wasn’t a great distance between interiors and interiority chez Our Legacy this season—nor is there any season, for that matter. The brand’s special sauce is making quality, not-quite classic clothing that has a throwaway, anti-fashion glamour. (Effortlessness, in fashion-speak.) Not showy in any way, OL makes pieces that you buy for yourself to amplify your individuality as well as indie credibility.As Our Legacy shows in Milan, in a predominantly Catholic country: this editor was tempted to think of The Last Supper, but that wasn’t one of Nying’s references. Feasts are, however, secular rituals, and in such divisive times, OL’s impulse to deconstruct the formality of the feast (as well as that of the wardrobe) and focus on coming together seemed both humanistic and spot-on. Food, after all, is a form of diplomacy. As it’s written in the New Testament, “It’s hard to remain enemies when you’ve broken bread together.”
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
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January 13, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/65a2a52c8ed459129c7c484f/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-our-legacy-fall-2024-menswear-credit-louis-flashman.jpg"
] |
fall
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2024
|
menswear
|
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|
Our Legacy
|
fall-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/our-legacy
|
It might be premature to call out proportion play as a theme of the fall 2023 season, but that was certainly the case at Our Legacy, where Christopher Nying was focused on the actual fit of some pretty rad ’fits.A father to two young daughters, Nying looked at their clothes as well as the childrenswear he’s amassed over the years. (One of the inspiration items for the collection, a pink-and-white striped onesie, appears as a showpiece that Nying described as “an internal smile.”) He also considered how his younger self dressed and his overall aesthetic: “I’m kind of grungy,” the designer admitted. But if his new collection is personal, it is also a technical one that involves ingenious problem-solving.Take look six, for example. It’s based on the designer’s daughter’s jacket, a vintage N-3B parka that Nying brought to the office and played around with. “We changed the proportions on the width only and made it into a top.” Leather sleeves were added, with kid’s art pencils stuffed in the pocket to elicit another smile.“I like the idea that in this collection we actually wash and dye a lot in the sense of getting this proper patina, like the shrink. The mistakes are there,” Nying said. Also present are many wonderful details: Twine of the kind used on toggle closures is repurposed as raw ties on undervests; a chain knit updates the classic cable; the Cure gets a shout-out via a Robert Smith T-shirt; corduroy is oriented horizontally; and some pants and jackets have zip, rather than button, finishings.One longish cardigan, noted Nying, has the same fit as when he puts his own cardigan on his daughter. Note too the way that the shoulder is set into shrunken blazers. Pants are sharp or full; Nying’s vision is generous and allows for variety. At the same time, he has certain touchstones—a military kit is one of them. In addition to the American N-3B jacket, Nying reworked a classic Swedish army topper (look eight). There are bomber and waxed outdoor jackets, as well as duffle and teddy coats that read as classics despite their adjusted shapes. At OL it’s not just what you wear but how you wear it that counts, which is what personal style is all about.“This is a very personal styling for me,” explained Nying on a call. Swipe through the collection, and you’ll see double skirts, pants over pants, sweaters over jackets, knits over leather, knits on knits, gaiters over pants, and plaids on plaids. “I’m not super into layering normally, but with this collection, because you have big and small proportions, it’s very easy to layer. It’s like a mixtape—you take what you have and just put it on you, in a way. It’s a kind of bad styling, but I like it when you do it because it’s comfortable, it keeps you warm.”What Nying is talking about is not just a look and a function but a natural, offhand gesture of someone more concerned with where they are going than how they will look when they get there—the anti-fashion stance, essentially. Of course, this collection and its styling are conscious, but the OL magic is to create clothes that are familiar yet off in an alluring way that draws you in—and keeps you coming back for more.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
January 15, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/63c2e6383b8c841452deb19b/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-our-legacy-fall-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-isak-berglund-mattsson-marn.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
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