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Tia Adeola
|
fall-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/tia-adeola
|
Tia Adeola returned to New York this season after showing her resort 2023 collection in her hometown of Lagos, Nigeria. “It feels amazing,” she said pre-show about her return to the city. “New York welcomed me with open arms when I moved here in 2016 and I wasn’t as confident. I wouldn’t have dared make the same clothing I make now had I stayed in Nigeria.”Adeola’s designs are sensual in their balance between soft and sexy. They’re revealing, sure, but the designer is hopeful that she’ll be known for her cut and design rather than solely for her knack for sexiness. At her show in Nigeria, she shared her frustration with the no-nudity rules Lagos Fashion Week enforces, so this time around her collection is built around the idea of conservatism. “Since I started making clothes, there’s been a lot of discourse on the topic and nudity in general, and I just wonder why we have so much to say about how women choose to display their sexuality and power?”It’s true that bareness is trending. Exposed midriffs, micro mini skirts, and barely there looks have all been topics of discussion post-pandemic. But rather than covering up, Adeola doubled-down on her signature intricate laces and frilly sheer silhouettes. She played with where to place sheer details and lace inserts, toying between covered and exposed—the dress in look three, for instance, is solid in the front but all lace in the back. Adeola’s request is clear: Focus on the beauty of the clothes in front of you and leave the way they engage with a woman’s body to the woman in question.
|
José Criales-Unzueta
|
February 12, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/63e83a33bd1baf3f5348668f/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-tia-adeola-fall-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2023
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ready-to-wear
|
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|
Tia Adeola
|
resort-2023
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2023/tia-adeola
|
Last Friday, Tia Adeola presented her spring 2023 collection in her home country of Nigeria during Lagos Fashion Week. “This show is my most special and dearest to my heart thus far,” she said over Zoom. “Just because my whole family lives here, and it was the first time I had them all at a show.”For resort, Adeola wanted to channel Lagos as she knows it, she said, while also remaining true to her sultry and romantic sensibility. This translated best via her color palette, which included a rich green as a nod to the Nigerian flag. Adeola “hates green,” but the pop of color was a welcome addition, breaking up the throughline of black and white ruffles, feathers, and transparencies carrying over from the spring collection she presented in New York in September. She expanded on the daintier ruffles she introduced for fall because she’s been wearing her own clothes more often, and this is what she’s gravitating towards. “In the past, what I was making was almost like a fantasy for me,” she said. Now that she feels more confident, she is starting to embody this fantasy herself.Adeola faced challenges in Lagos. “Nigeria is quite a reserved and religious country,” she said. “I’d never had so many constraints that affect design.” The city’s no-nudity rule made sending sheer looks down the runway without undergarments, as she’s done in New York, an impossibility. But this had its upside. The more covered-up looks, including the opening black dress and the draped frock in look 3, displayed a level of control Adeola could benefit from exploring further.The designer looked to make a statement with a green dress featuring the message “God Help Nigeria” and a crossed-out Nigerian police logo on a pair of pants. “There’s a lot to be done in terms of police reform in Nigeria, and I’ve never been the type to just sit back,” she said.Come February, Adeola will return to New York Fashion Week, though she’s looking forward to showing in Lagos again. “Lagos has an incredible emerging creative scene, and one of the biggest obstacles for us is the older generation,” she said. “I hope they invite me back and I can keep pushing and trying to break those boundaries and try to make things more acceptable so that the creatives to come after me don’t have these constrictions and can just create freely.”
|
José Criales-Unzueta
|
November 2, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6361028525161163f5e44832/master/w_1280,c_limit/00002-tia-adeola-resort-2023-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2023
|
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] |
||
Tia Adeola
|
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/tia-adeola
|
Tia Adeola dedicated her spring 2023 collection to the legacy of Manfred Thierry Mugler, one of her long-lasting inspirations. Her show notes indicated that she shares Mugler’s appreciation for film noir and she has always envisioned herself as a “burgeoning couture designer.”Adeola’s show started with a solo dance performance, followed by a voiceover of Nina Simone that culminated with the quote “To me, we are the most beautiful creatures in the whole world, Black people, and I mean that in every sense.” It set the tone for a romantic but daring collection. Adeola is known for her close-to-the-body confections and ornamental textiles. Embellishments like feathers and ruffles have become her signature. This season she leaned further into textile manipulations, which made her assortment more focused than in the past. The collection was at its most believable when she used knitted fabrics and textiles with stretch; they allowed her body-con cuts to hug as intended. She has an eye for placing cutouts, which was illustrated in pieces like the trousers with peekaboo details, but techniques like slashing sometimes yielded results that felt overworked.The Mugler inspiration was evident in the embellished textiles, though Adeola said that the couturier’s chiffon pieces were some of her main references. She wanted to replicate the way Mugler cut for a woman’s body, serving its curves and enhancing its shape. This is something Adeola has an eye for, and it will serve her well to continue to refine it moving forward.The show also included a run of menswear looks, though they felt a bit disconnected from the overall vision. Most interesting was a take on a classic ribbed tank top in a delicately knitted ribbed fabric; exploring more pieces like this might better connect both channels. She included some religious iconography as well—you’ll recognize an image of Black Jesus on a hoodie. She said this was a nod to her fall 2019 collection, in which she featured a print of a white Jesus. After some research over the past few years, she decided to reapproach it.Adeola is well liked within the emerging scene of fashion-philes in New York City. The energy at her show was vibrant and came even more alive when Beyoncé’s “Heated” came on toward the end of the presentation. Another indication of how popular Adeola is: Our conversation was cut short backstage when her friends were leaving the venue, and naturally she wanted to join. Must have been one great after-party.
|
José Criales-Unzueta
|
September 10, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/631c41128e25dc264bc7a8eb/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-tia-adeola-spring-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Tia Adeola
|
fall-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/tia-adeola
|
A harpist greeted guests at Tia Adeola’s fall 2022 show. The serene melodies accompanied a front row full of friends and fans wearing the designer’s feathered midi- and minidresses. Against the gilded backdrop of the Prince George Ballroom, you might have thought you were in heaven. But Adeola is well aware that fashion—and life—isn’t always paradise. For her first collection in a year, she wanted to bring up theEnd SARS movementin her native Nigeria. After posting about it on social media, she was encouraged to halt discussing it because of the potential for her family in Nigeria to be in danger as a result of her activism.“With this show, I thought, I am going to say how I feel,” she said backstage afterward. On the runway, her angelic, Renaissance-inspired silhouettes with ruffles, cutouts, and plenty of sheer were accompanied by messages directed at SARS (Special Anti-Robbery Squad), a controversial police group that has been widely accused of abusing its power in Nigeria and whose use of force has resulted in numerous deaths. A graphic on a backless slate slip dress read, “You were supposed to protect us.” Another read “Sorrow. Tears. Blood.”What Adeola does well is interlace her love of truly beautiful, sweet, and elegant things with a potent message. The crowd of well-wishers that gathered to embrace her after the catwalk is a testament to that. Will they reach for garments printed with Adeola’s most pointed barbs? If not, the ruffle-trimmed leggings and newly launched menswear—camp shirts and covetable flares—will turn customers onto her look.
|
Steff Yotka
|
February 11, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/62068fa70009ec3af7e4f580/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Tia-Adeola-New-York-Fall-2022-RTW-Credit-Brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2022
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Tia Adeola
|
fall-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/tia-adeola
|
Beauty and elegance are always at the core of Tia Adeola’s work, but her message of Black beauty holds a special resonance in 2021. After the many racial injustices of the past year, Adeola says she “wanted to put out something beautiful, and show Black bodies from a lens of luxury and fantasy.”She took the year to design what is surely her strongest and most beautiful collection yet. Finding inspiration in the world of Marie Antoinette and her ladies at the Petit Trianon, Adeola transferred the queen’s pastel palette and love of decadence to a contemporary wardrobe worn in her look book by an all-star cast of Black women. Rapper Flo Milli reclines in a chaise wearing a pearl-strewn corset; vocalist Paloma Ford holds court in regal blue silk. In the end, Ford duels in her luxurious outfit—proof a woman can do anything a man can, and be better dressed too!Ruffles are Adeola’s signature, and here they are softened and elongated to better show off the wearer’s curves. She utilizes sheer materials hand-beaded with pearls, long white feathers, or peach-colored flowers to add demi-couture touches to her feminine silhouettes. While Adeola sourced her fabrics from all over the world, her collection was made by craftspeople and artisans across New York City, her adopted home. The collection’s look book and film were also shot at an estate in New York, with the director Nina Meredith adding Parisian flourishes like harpists and elaborate floral arrangements. Milliner Leila Jinnah created elaborate headpieces, and Planet I made dramatic cat-eye sunglasses. The total picture highlights both the beauty of Adeola’s work and the beauty of collaboration, hammering home the message of the film,Le Noir Est Beau(“Black is beautiful”).
|
Steff Yotka
|
February 17, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/602be5bdd6d4503e97fec205/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-tia-adeola-RTW-fall-21.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2021
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Tia Cibani
|
spring-2016-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/tia-cibani
|
Designers often refer to a new collection as their baby, but at her presentation in her Chelsea town house today,Tia Cibanihad the real thing sleeping upstairs. Five days ago, Cibani gave birth to a baby boy, the second of her two children.While the timing wasn’t exactly convenient, Cibani made the most of it, graciously showing guests around her spacious, modern home and sneaking upstairs when she could. Plus, since Cibani was pregnant throughout the design process, there was a tidy logic to showing the collection—her other baby—so close to giving birth.Cibani was inspired by lush and exotic landscapes in Brazil, and the dichotomy between the country’s vibrant, festive Samba culture—which inspired the colorful brushstroke print—and the “serene beauty” of Bahia, which influenced the monochromatic looks made from lightweight linen blends. Cibani had a lot of fun with texture this season—for example, mixing hand-embroidered tufted fabrics with raw silks and bouclé—which made the head-to-toe black and white looks the strongest. A collaboration with Mt. Washington Pottery that yielded long ceramic necklaces, like mini sculptures, emphasized the earthiness of the collection.Exotic locales aside, it was Cibani’s pregnancy that helped inform the loose silhouettes and practical versatility of each piece: Standouts included a jumpsuit that came in black-and-white sueded cupro and had an adjustable wraparound tie, and a billowy ecru coat that was finished with white tape. Each look was styled with slip-on Birkenstock flats.“It’s like yoga clothes, but elevated,” said Cibani, who, not inconsequentially, did a lot of prenatal yoga while pregnant. “Overall, the feeling of the collection is more relaxed.”
|
Hayley Phelan
|
September 10, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55f21cda822e0025344c40eb/master/w_1280,c_limit/tia-cibani-spring-2016-001.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2016
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Tia Cibani
|
fall-2015-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/tia-cibani
|
The beautifully decrepit ballroom of the Hotel Wolcott was heavily perfumed with rose incense. It smelled like the inside of an antique jewelry box, the ring pillow stuffed with dried petals. A pianist played in the background, while models with hair piled high on their heads posed in sets of two or three. At Tia Cibani's Fall presentation, the past was very present."It's a little bit more Victorian, but not literal," said Cibani of the concept, which was inspired by turn-of-the-century artist Margaret Macdonald Mackintosh. "There's a romantic femininity. I've been going there a lot, it seems."For Fall, Cibani expanded on last season's velvet story with dusty rose and topaz dresses and gowns, a few decorated with an ornate lace appliqué meant to look like a harness. The tulip skirt was a key shape, either made from sculpted marled wool or Fortuny-pleated silk. While hefty fabrics were important—duchesse satin was fashioned into a strapless peplum top and matching trousers; nubby tweed was done up as a curved-hem cape with an attached scarf wrapped around the neck—Cibani also presented a painted-glass print she developed in-house. The Art Nouveau motif—in line with Mackintosh's work—added the right amount of novelty to a serious collection.
|
Lauren Sherman
|
February 18, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c651d808298d8be2292844/master/w_1280,c_limit/tia-cibani-001-1366.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2015
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Tia Cibani
|
pre-fall-2015
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2015/tia-cibani
|
Tia Cibani's first Pre-Fall collection came about for the best reason. "Clients were asking for it," said the designer in her Meatpacking District studio. "It was a practical decision, but it also puts me in the position of being ahead of the curve with the main collection."While Cibani rarely repeats silhouettes or concepts, a burnished patina sort of blankets itself across her clothes. This season she looked to the gold-leaf paintings of Gustav Klimt, which inspired a yoked liquid lamé cocktail dress, tied up with ribbon at the wrists. You could also see the influence in the spherical lace used as a right-sleeve detail on a waisted dress, which was otherwise made out of chain-mail paillettes stitched onto chiffon. Teardrop pockets were a unique detail used on several jackets, from a waxed taffeta slicker to a cropped topper made out of a geometric metallic brocade. Here, the fabric was the thing. There was a beautiful amethyst velvet too, and a lightweight pyramid-pattern jacquard.It was all very rich, tempered by Cibani's love of menswear tailoring and details. There were blue tweed accents, as well as wool gabardine suiting that came as close to basic as the designer gets. Her black strapless "tuxedo" dress was done with box pleats on the front and back, cowled at the sides to add movement. Just the sort of interesting LBD buyers love to stock up on during the time of year that these clothes hit stores.
|
Lauren Sherman
|
January 12, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c651d008298d8be2288c4e/master/w_1280,c_limit/Tia_Cibani_001_1366.jpg"
] |
pre-fall
|
2015
|
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] |
||
Tia Cibani
|
spring-2015-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/tia-cibani
|
"I'm a big believer in volume," said Tia Cibani, in the moments leading up to her Spring show. The designer has challenged herself over the past few seasons to build dimension without bulk. For Spring, she went "all-out '70s," channeling Bianca Jagger in Marrakech with a block-printed, light-as-air cotton dress bustled at the side to give it shape, and a fluffy, off-the-shoulder ruffled top worn with a pair of dark rose-printed satin trousers. Cibani also created dimension with layers: A sarong skirt was tied over a pair of ticking-stripe trousers and worn with the pants' matching tuxedo jacket and blue-lamé bandeau top. While Cibani was thinking a lot about silhouette, color emerged as the season's strongest suit. Dusty pinks, golds, and purples named after spices—turmeric, clove, cayenne, saffron—delivered the feeling of the era, especially when rendered in cupro-sateen or lamé. There were some utilitarian pieces that stood out as well, particularly a denim sleeveless coat dress, and a khaki chino skirt. Cibani likes to show lots of looks with lots of elements, which can cause confusion. But this time around, it all made sense.
|
Lauren Sherman
|
September 6, 2014
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c651be08298d8be22732f3/master/w_1280,c_limit/Tia_Cibani_001_1366.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2015
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Tia Cibani
|
resort-2015
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2015/tia-cibani
|
For her namesake label's first Resort collection, Tia Cibani went nautical. A common theme for the season, yes, but adding "nomad" to the equation made the look entirely her own. A saffron yellow peacoat, for instance, was done up with plackets instead of the traditional buttons. Rope detailing cinched the waist of a dress in a lightweight wool that almost looked like fancy burlap and gave the neckline of a diagonal navy-and-white stripe dress versatility. "You can zhuzh it up whichever way you like," Cibani said.One piece in no need of zhuzhing was a shell made of lacquered lattice lace that resembled leather. Paired with track pants in the same diagonal navy-and-white stripe, it had a one-of-a-kind feel. There was also a series of "self-lining" tops and dresses, done in a gauzy stripe. (This difficult-to-explain technique, which entails one piece of fabric being folded to create a two-layer piece, created dimension.)Masai check was a big story, told best with a navy-and-red blazer and matching elastic-waist pencil skirt. The notch-collar dress in the same print, worn over matching pants, was more nomad than nautical.Cibani collaborated with swimwear specialist Marianna G on one tank and one bikini, both done in a red-and-white color-block that complemented the season's knitwear offerings. To be sure, Cibani worked hard here to offer plenty of categories, which is crucial in this very commercial season. But her personal aesthetic was also on full display, which is just as important for an emerging label that's still finding its customer.
|
Lauren Sherman
|
June 5, 2014
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6514008298d8be21e2f02/master/w_1280,c_limit/Cibani_001_1366.1366x2048.JPG"
] |
resort
|
2015
|
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]
] |
||
Tia Cibani
|
fall-2014-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2014-ready-to-wear/tia-cibani
|
"I've always wanted to reference the whirling dervishes," said designer Tia Cibani on Tuesday at her sliver of a studio in New York's Meatpacking District. For Fall, she did just that, turning to her native North Africa for more than a little inspiration.Today, the runway at her show venue, the Prince George Ballroom—a grand ol', just-decrepit-enough place—was lined with Moroccan rugs bought just across the street. Cibani's team handed out Turkish delights as favors, and mint tea was served in the lobby. The clothes followed suit, most obviously with elongated felt fezzes made by New York milliner Joy Kim.Each look was a study in layers and proportion. For instance, a pair of slim cupro pants—traditionally called churidar—were worn under an A-line caftan, and a cropped, chunky, hand-knit sweater was paired with an above-the-ankle ball skirt in a "Damascus rose" brocade. That same floral was rendered digitally on a long gown, which skimmed the body at the front but billowed into a cape at the back. "Collapsing volume," Cibani called it.Iris Apfel was also a muse. "I was feeling very magpie," Cibani said. It came through in the multiple shapes and styles on offer, from a bergamot-colored coat nipped in at the waist with a leather belt to the leopard-print tunic and matching legging trouser in rusty red. Cibani managed to cast a burnished patina over the whole collection, giving each piece a sense of belonging.
|
Lauren Sherman
|
February 5, 2014
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6513308298d8be21d4c3b/master/w_1280,c_limit/Cibani_001_1366.1366x2048.JPG"
] |
fall
|
2014
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Tia Cibani
|
spring-2014-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2014-ready-to-wear/tia-cibani
|
"I was thinking of the 1940s. And then I went to Mexico for a wedding, and everything changed," said Tia Cibani, who, with her Spring collection, aimed to blend the two ideas—the silhouettes of the 1940s, the colors of Tulum—into a cohesive offering.She succeeded, for the most part, evoking the spirit of Frida Kahlo along the way. A simple sheath was made modern with a pixelated Aztec print, and a dotted jacquard jacket and matching pencil skirt were given a retro touch with a portrait collar and pleated peplum. That dotted jacquard popped up again and again throughout the collection—on a formfitting patchwork dress it added an almost preppy element.But the real story here was color: Mint, pink, fuschia, gold, and azure blue mixed so well together in different prints and patterns. It was nice to see shades for Spring that aren't so saccharine. Where Cibani could have held back was in layering. One look, a pair of pedal pushers worn under a pencil skirt and topped off with a flouncy blouse and a flouncier cropped jacket looked bulky, even on a model. Separately, each piece was admirable: Given that Cibani's customers will buy individual items rather than whole looks, that's not such a bad thing.
|
Lauren Sherman
|
September 3, 2013
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6511c08298d8be21bae04/master/w_1280,c_limit/_FSM7294.1366x2048.JPG"
] |
spring
|
2014
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Tia Cibani
|
fall-2013-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2013-ready-to-wear/tia-cibani
|
Cool. It's not a word to describe designer Tia Cibani's decade-long effort at Ports 1961. Practical, definitely. Chic, certainly. But cool? It just wasn't in her vocabulary.With her namesake collection, which debuted for Spring 2013, Cibani seems less afraid of being hip. "I'm expressing myself on more of a personal level," she said after her presentation, which featured an intriguing matte metallic paper installation by the artist Kirsten Hassenfeld.Fresh off her win for Fashion Group International's Rising Star Award—past recipients include Wes Gordon and Joseph Altuzarra—Cibani presented a garçonne-appropriate collection featuring plenty of navy, black, and gray wool separates. Ideal for aspiring Alexa Chungs of the world. (The eccentric Peggy Guggenheim served as Cibani's muse this season.)The first look—a white poplin button-up paired with a black double-faced wool V-neck coat and cigarette trousers—appealed as much to the 20-somethings in the audience as it did the Ports customers who wear her wares in law offices and investment banks. Those professional types were rewarded with a magenta asymmetrical chiffon dress: classic from the front, but the back took things to a new level, with intricate neck-to-hem accordion pleats done by New York's famed International Pleating, a stalwart in the city's shrinking Garment District.The one misstep was a geometric-print sateen sheath dress, paired with a rose-gold geometric brocade capelet. Compared to the silver-and-gold lamé pleated dress that ended the show, it just felt a little too forced. But with such a promising collection, Cibani should be forgiven.
|
Lauren Sherman
|
February 5, 2013
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6510908298d8be21a64de/master/w_1280,c_limit/tiacibani_001_1366.1366x2048.JPG"
] |
fall
|
2013
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Tibi
|
pre-fall-2025
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2025/tibi
|
Here are some of the things that Tibi’s Amy Smilovic and her team were looking at as inspiration for their summer collection: western motifs, sporty nylon fabrics, feminine dressing, and the 1970s animated TV showFat Albert. “I know it’s a weird reference, but that was the color inspiration,” Smilovic explained on a recent video call. The opening look is a fashion version of the Dumb Donald character, his green sweater turned into a minimalist slip dress, and his oversized beanie into a kind of felted extra-large baseball cap whipped up by Rae Godin, Tibi’s artist-in-residence. A handsome dusty purple-greige suit has its origins in the wardrobe of one Rudy Davis, while Mushmouth’s red pants, held up by a string, become a crinkly pair of pink trousers accessorized with a western belt and gold and silver chain belts with a lobster motif closure. A blue and brown striped matching terry shorts set worn with a white tech-y lab coat embodied the designer’s wish for that “ease and femininity you crave in June and July, but doing it with a sporty attitude.”Not everything was cartoon-ified. Dresses retained a certain elegance and ease: a long black spaghetti strap number with a high square neck was done in a tech-y fabric with un-tech-y flocked polka dots, while another had soft triangular sculptural details that created a sort of whisk-shape in a a new negative-space take on the balloon-silhouette trend.“I think that when we are craving things that have a little bit more femininity, exploring various ways of creating sculpture that is still soft is more important, because it is so easy to fall into tropes and then you don’t feel like yourself,” Smilovic said. “We give ourselves lots of room to experiment and play.”
|
Laia Garcia-Furtado
|
November 19, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/67347412ee1d0a39ccf57a76/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-tibi-pre-fall-2025-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
pre-fall
|
2025
|
[
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] |
||
Tibi
|
spring-2025-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/tibi
|
For Tibi’s spring collection, Amy Smilovic and her team were looking to push themselves and “be reckless.” Their clothes are unlikely to ever read that way, but what Smilovic was referring to was the fact that anything goes during her creative process. “We are grounded but at the same time we want to see how far we can push things and still feel like ourselves,” she said.Suiting played a starring role in the collection, and tailored separates had subtle details that declared to the world, “I’m not a regular jacket, I’m a cool jacket” and meant it. On the opening look, a single-breasted blazer had a button at the lapel so that you can wear it closed at the neck, which created a kind of mandarin collar; one jacket seemed to have been hybridized with a bomber; another was liberally sprinkled with a few welt pockets as decoration. Smilovic’s take on tailoring is above all easy, and is well suited for people that like to wear suits for fun and those whohaveto wear suits to work. The fact that Smilovic featured many male models wearing those exact same suits is further proof of her one-size-fits-all-stylish-denizens approach. She also played with tech-y fabrics, turning the classic windbreaker into a slouchy blouson-ish top, and adding a groovy exposed zipper down the front of track pants.The big news this season, perhaps, was an emphasis on an extra dropped-waist silhouette: low slung pants and skirts are a given, but more novel was a sweater with belt loops at the hem, worn with an asymmetrical striped skirt. A handkerchief-esque skirt was designed to be worn tied up or down, and many other garments featured swooping panels that added unexpected volume to otherwise straightforward silhouettes. The pair of parachute dresses that closed the show showed so much movement that this reviewer looked around to see where the fan was blowing from, but there was none, of course.
|
Laia Garcia-Furtado
|
September 7, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/66dcdcda4572c83894df2781/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-tibi-spring-2025-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2025
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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]
] |
|
Tibi
|
resort-2025
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2025/tibi
|
Tibi’s resort 2025 collection began with a search for meaning. “We were searching for things that had meaning to us even when we didn’t know why,” Amy Smilovic explained during an appointment in her Manhattan office. “All of a sudden, our board was filled with Korean formal traditional dress, 1920s tennis players, and artwork by Paul Klee. It was the most random assortment of things.” The resulting lineup didn’t feel random at all, and was instead grounded by an undeniably sporty, preppy feel.An old Tibi logo from 1997 that featured an elephant was brought back and turned into a crest and applied to navy blazers and crewneck sweaters; climbing-inspired carabiner clips, first popularized by Chopova Lowena, appeared as subtle functional details that allowed a pleated skirt to transform into a pencil skirt by simply removing the pleated panel. “You can even attach them to other things, like if you want to wear a skirt over your jeans or whatever,” Smilovic demonstrated. “I don’t like it when things are one-and-done, I hate being totally committed to a certain look; and so this malleability is so important and our customers really seek it out.” A reversible trench coat also utilized carabiners and small metal loops to “cuff” the hem and make it shorter. “I love a to-the-ground trench, but when you’re not running around it’s not always completely practical,” she added.Elsewhere, a cotton jacket that was half-bomber, half-field jacket featured a contrasting corduroy collar that was removable. It came with a matching pencil skirt with pleats at the waistband that added the same ease as a pair of classic khaki pants. “A Goldman Sachs executive can wear this, but the corduroy would make it too casual,” she explained matter-of-factly. “So she can wear it without at the office, and with on the weekend.”When Smilovic talks about her customers, it is obvious that these are real women she’s thinking about, women that she meets through her brand’s own robust social media channels. With this collection in particular, born out of vibes instead of something more concrete, she has created building blocks for a legitimately cool wardrobe, things that by extension can help her customers unlock their own sense of personal style—the search for which is a constant on TikTok and Instagram.It’s not only the convertible pieces that are exciting, but also the way she incorporates materials—like a simple double tank in sporty jersey, or a circle skirt in tech-y nylon—and her use of color. The aforementioned pleated skirt comes in white and navy but also a purple-ish gray color (unfortunately not featured in the lookbook); instead of brown or peach, Smilovic offers cotton separates in an in-between terracotta hue; a lingerie-inspired skirt comes in khaki green with a burst of orange lace. The latter is smartly paired with a simple navy button-down.Seeing the full collection on the racks it’s evident that she’s giving her customers the ability to easily push themselves out of their comfort zones, experiment with trends, and discover how to have fun with their style. And for the ones who already know how to do that; well, consider the candy-colored feather-covered pumps, and aggressively square-toed retro sneakers as special treats.
|
Laia Garcia-Furtado
|
June 4, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/665dd53e2f2735c8e8bde570/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-tibi-resort-2025-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2025
|
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] |
||
Tibi
|
fall-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-ready-to-wear/tibi
|
At Tibi, Amy Smilovic was thinking about the ’90s. Not in the way fashion is always thinking about the ’90s, but in the way that the ’90s represent a certain kind of freedom. “We were looking at photos from the time; but not at the clothes, but the people and the models and how they were so alive,” the designer said during the presentation at her Wooster Street flagship. “It made us think a lot about not being overly self-conscious; about creating what we want and leaning into it.”What Smilovic and her team wanted was a sporty moment, but more in the essence of the way one dresses comfortably to partake in a sport, rather than the sport uniform itself. How to best have your wardrobe meet you where you are. “It’s using luxury fabrics in a sportier way and really experimenting with shapes and curves and letting pragmatism lead the way,” she said. She added irregular tacks to a sprightly balloon skirt that brought an element of motion, like they’d been caught by static. There were slouchy but not oversized tailoring pieces made from Italian wool, some of them with added belt embellishments that will allow for a manner of personalization. On a beige jacket, the belt helped an oversized bright green scarf stay in place while draped across a shoulder; on a pair of gaucho pants, an asymmetric sateen blouse with a round neck and slightly padded rounded shoulders was artfully threaded through a low slung croc print belt. Smilovic also showed double waistbands that could be pushed up or down. “Maybe you are experimenting with crop tops and you want your pants to hang a little lower,” she said. A quirky snail print appeared on a pencil skirt and on an easy stark white column dress with raw edges. Slow and steady wins the race.
|
Laia Garcia-Furtado
|
February 12, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/65c8f9c466fd11d4880259d2/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-tibi-fall-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
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0.03214577957987785
]
] |
|
Tibi
|
pre-fall-2024
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2024/tibi
|
Tibi’s Amy Smilovic is nothing if not practical. Pre-fall is a summer collection, but she’s not making clothes for lounging around the Mediterranean (well, notjustfor that). “Our customer, she works. Summer is not just on a boat somewhere. We still have lots of stuff we have to get done,” she said.So, she offers roomy suiting, full skirts, lightweight denim, and knits. Nothing except a few bodices on empire-waist dresses is clingy to the body; perfect when it’s so hot you just don’t want anything touching you. The color palette is filled with what Smilovic describes as “colors with -ish at the end”: greenish, reddish, brownish. Since so many of the outfits are made of one or two pieces, the unexpected colors are not daunting.Tibi is not a print-forward brand, but Smilovic revived a batik floral she made for her very first collection in 1997. Back then, she lived in Solo, Indonesia, and worked with a local family to make the large-scale print. The new version appears on semi-structured pieces like camp shirts and board shorts made of a techy nylon.The collection was designed to help solve problems in your summer wardrobe, from the any-occassion oversized blazers to knits so lightweight you can ball them up in one hand. The latter could be worn over a bikini, in a movie theater, or in an over air-conditioned office. That’s Smilovic, earning the name she gave herself in her self-published bookThe Creative Pragmatist.
|
Sarah Spellings
|
December 12, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/657881266b643a152c0b2be2/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-tibi-pre-fall-2024-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
pre-fall
|
2024
|
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]
] |
||
Tibi
|
spring-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/tibi
|
A frilly,Dumb and Dumber–esque tuxedo shirt in pastel colors seems on its surface like a very un-Tibi piece. This is the brand of the “creative pragmatist” (a term designer Amy Smilovic coined to describe her stylish yet utilitarian philosophy), with pant styles named after Constantine Brancusi and Alexander Calder. Ruffles, really? “These tuxedo shirts are one of my favorite things. I just feel like it’s going to go over a bikini, it’s going to go out at night, it’s going to be a gym cover-up,” Smilovic said ahead of the Tibi show on Manhattan’s West Side on Saturday. And now it makes sense. These tops won’t be worn in context with a coordinating suit, but semi-ironically. Now that’s on brand.Smilovic has really honed in on her ability to help people get dressed and put together wardrobes with personality and intrigue. She released a book early this year titledThe Creative Pragmatist, which acts as a guide to getting dressed, and also spends a fair amount of time teaching her followers online how to build outfits—provided they would describe their style as chill, modern, and classic. She is solid in her philosophy, which shows up in the clothes. “More and more, we [Tibi] are feeling an unbelievable confidence that we know who we are, and it’s freed us up to just make the things we love and not be focused on what happens in fashion outside of our world,” Smilovic said. “This season, more than ever, is finding that place where you can just be and enjoy trying new things without overly questioning yourself.”Spring 2024 was certainly aligned with her aesthetic, with its asymmetrical blazers, ankle-skimming skirts, and relaxed trousers paired with flats. That said, a runway show isn’t always the best format for diving into the details of the clothing that Smilovic loves so much. There’s not much to wonder about a slouchy navy suit or a maxiskirt and tank top. But those details are genuinely interesting. For instance, many of the models wore what looked like socks and ballet flats but were really carefully developed boots. Some blazers had little cutouts that you could thread your watch through to show off your timepiece. L.L.Bean sent over some of its Boat and Totes, which were reworked with belts along the top and grips on the bottom to be held under the crook of one’s arm (though you could still use the straps). The draping was also quite pretty, such as in a mostly unassuming gray sweatshirt with a billowing back. The collection closed with those three tuxedo shirts, worn with jeans. Which maybe was the Tibi way of saving the most outlandish for last.
|
Sarah Spellings
|
September 9, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/64fcd4ff8ad162f7bedc9f93/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-tibi-spring-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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]
] |
|
Tibi
|
resort-2024
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2024/tibi
|
“All this quiet luxury, it’s a slippery slope to just boring,” Amy Smilovic said while walking through her resort collection for Tibi. While her label makes many things that could fall under the increasingly popular category of stealth wealth—logoless ready-to-wear with a nonchalant attitude—she makes sure that every staple is balanced out with weirdness. Her flats are made out of gold nylon, her sweatpants have massive barrel legs, and her black leggings are really jodhpurs, preferably worn with socks and strappy heels.Rather than concern herself with making something self consciously elegant, Smilovic focuses on ease, sportiness, and personality. The resort lookbook was photographed in Vienna, because Americans, Smolivic explained, tend to associate Europe with effortless chic. It’s a tight edit, with knee-length skirts, tailored blazers, oversized sweaters and wide-leg trousers as building blocks. A black tube top, an ostrich-print leather midi skirt, and those gold shoes add some of the levity Smilovic values. It’s definitely more utilitarian than her main season collections tend to be, but she nonetheless avoided that aforementioned slippery slope.
|
Sarah Spellings
|
June 7, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/647f3fbe39bae0764bdeae6e/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-tibi-resort-2024-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2024
|
[
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] |
||
Tibi
|
fall-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/tibi
|
The 1956 movieGiant, starring Elizabeth Taylor, Rock Hudson, and James Dean, inspired Tibi’s fall 2023 collection. In some ways, very literally; the campaign images recreate exact shots from the movie. But the film inspired the clothes in a more relaxed manner, too. “Nothing specific, there are no clothing references, just the feeling of it,” designer Amy Smilovic said. Taylor’s character is an East Coast gal who moves to West Texas, and her traditional equestrian wardrobe is at odds with the realities of cattle ranching. Smilovic took this premise—prissy clothes in a rustic environment—and played with it in a modern way.Shot in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, the collection embraces the juxtapositions of fluidity and tailoring, utilitarianism and whimsy, hard and soft. Many of the clothes have detachable panels or ties that can blow in the wind. Several structured suit jackets have removable lapels, many of the models are wearing versatile turtleneck bolero-cum-headscarves, and fluid blouses have neck ties. “They’re not here to pussybow up, but when you’re walking, you have this movement,” Smilovic said. The designer has an eye for adding a breeziness to sculpted shapes or something as proper as a suit. Though this season the shoulders are more precise than they were in seasons past and more of the separates are office-appropriate, there is a coolness to their boxy fit, their long sleeves.For spring Smilovic showed a trompe l’oeil jumpsuit that resembled dress trousers and suspenders. She was shocked when it was the first item to sell out. This season, the style is back in black and blue denim. It’s on the kookier end of the collection to be sure, but stuffed into cowboy boots it’s weirdly appealing. Just like wearing gold tinsel kitten heels on a ranch with an oversized waxy green jacket.
|
Sarah Spellings
|
February 13, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/63e96365dfbd8d098d691886/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-tibi-fall-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Tibi
|
resort-2023
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2023/tibi
|
Tibi’s Amy Smilovic is fun on Instagram. The designer frequently answers DMs from her followers seeking fashion advice: from broad questions like “how do I build a wardrobe?” to details like “what shoes can I wear with a sculptural pant?” By doing so, she has direct insight into what her customers and potential customers are looking for from their clothes, and earlier this year she started to notice a pattern. “I started getting DMs from people saying ‘I’ve figured out my style, I’ve got these basics that aren’t basic, but I want to feel something more,’” she says. “It’s not enough that a jacket is luxurious or a pant is cut really well. You’re looking for your clothing to give you an emotional feeling. But I could go right now and wear some over-the-top piece and get a feeling from it, and it wouldn’t be practical and it wouldn’t fit my life. I thought for this season, how can we give ourselves more? How can we give the clothes feeling?”Emotional clothing—garments that elicit a reaction when you put them on—are different for everybody. But a person shopping at Tibi will likely want pieces that strike that fine balance between practical and special. This season, Smilovic offered familiar-ish silhouettes in a range of interesting colors: Salmon trousers and pleated maxis, violet midis and sleeveless blouses, chartreuse sweaters with royal blue midi skirts. She hopes that these particular shades will be “good friends on the playground,” that is, in your wardrobe. Texture plays a key role in creating novelty; Smilovic points out that there’s little repetition of fabrics throughout the collection, including ultrasuede, denim, and a thick athletic material.Is the collection groundbreaking? No, but that doesn’t seem to be the goal. Instead, like Smilovic’s Instagram, the clothes encourage aspiring adventurous dressers to step out of their comfort zone.
|
Sarah Spellings
|
November 7, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/636150315d8db20e5d3f3b69/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-tibi-resort-2023-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2023
|
[
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] |
||
Tibi
|
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/tibi
|
The prelude to Tibi’s 25th anniversary show was the opening verse of Peggy Lee’s “Is That All There Is,” a song about becoming disillusioned with life and being inspired to “break out the booze and have a ball” in spite of that. The ditty inspired designer Amy Smilovic early on in the collection’s conception. “We wanted to acknowledge that style and beauty make us feel really great. When you’re just trying to enjoy life, surrounding yourself with that is a good thing,” she said. “Life is life. It’s all there is, and you can make it great and enjoy it or not.”It seemed to connect, also, to Tibi’s reinvention over the past two and a half decades. Smilovic started her brand while living as an expat in Hong Kong, and in its first decade or so, Tibi was known for bold, colorful prints. Since then, the label has evolved to be more a reflection of Smilovic’s sophisticated and clean personal style, more in line with ’90s minimalism than Y2K jubilance. Looking at the spring 2023 collection, it was hard to see remnants of the brand’s tropical origins. Oversized but keenly tailored suits, sheer fabrics, and low-slung maxiskirts and pants ruled the runway instead: insouciant but with a formal bent.Within the framework of Lee’s lyrics, it seemed silly to ask Smilovic what the through line in her 25 years of work has been. Why should she be attached to nostalgic self-references? Why shouldn’t she keep exploring what modernity means now, rather than what it meant back in 1997? (For the record, that’s what she said she thought linked all of her collections: modern effortlessness).Smilovic’s aim is to provide her customers with clothes they can wear for multiple facets of their lives. “No matter where you are in your life, it all merges together, so you don’t open up your closet and have work and dinner and kids’ outfits,” she said. Even so, elements of the collection felt like they were cheekily thumbing their nose at the idea of corporate clothing. See the jumpsuit that looked like a pair of work slacks held up with suspenders, or the black pants with sheer legs, or the light-wash denim suit, or the pinstripe miniskirt and kerchief top, or the blazers with only one arm (which Smilovic herself wore to the show). Yes, these pieces could be mixed and matched for a corporate office environment, but they also felt appropriate for a time when many people feel apathetic toward office life and tying themselves to a stifling 9-to-5. These clothes adopted the aesthetics of tradition, but messed with them in an irreverent—and, it must be said, modern—way. They seemed to say, in harmony with Lee, “If that’s all there is, my friends, then let’s keep dancing.”
|
Sarah Spellings
|
September 10, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/631d24b4213ee82d835435fb/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-tibi-spring-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Tim Coppens
|
spring-2018-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-menswear/tim-coppens
|
For Spring, Tim Coppens wanted to get back to the basics after showing last season in Pitti, which was a treat, but not exactly everyday reality. He said his new collection was meant to illustrate “what Tim Coppens is about in 2017.” He then noted a move away from the “sporty” into something more mixed—athletic and technical, still, but with a weekender casualness, which was nice to see.Most newsworthy today: a teaser for a new partnership with Wrangler denim, which came loose and baggy and even a little woodsy. Throw-’em-on-and-dirty-’em-up kind of jeans. Elsewhere, Coppens is continuing his collaboration with the Berlin-based eyewear specialists Mykita, which dropped in Florence originally, and with Clarks on footwear. (The sunglasses especially were sweet—big and reflective-lensed.)Part of the designer’s thinking was Americana, and seeing it from European eyes. Best in show was a remastered block-striped parka that hit the perfect outsize-but-not-overbearing volume. Originally, that proportion came from an FDNY jacket. Relaxed plaid suiting, some banded jumpers, and pops of Day-Glo hues on outerwear were also all included. It’s great to observe Coppens evolving, while also staying grounded—these were highly wearable, well done clothes.
|
Nick Remsen
|
June 23, 2017
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/594d4feb1d0e280c18feca87/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-Tim-Coppens-SS-18.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2018
|
menswear
|
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] |
|
Tim Coppens
|
fall-2017-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-menswear/tim-coppens
|
Some garments inTim Coppens’s guest show at Pitti Uomo featured the words “Never Ending Fun,” written across the collar, sleeve, or back. Others were printed with a fierily apocalyptic hell ball of a nuclear explosion. That’s a pretty broad span from super-great to oh no, we’re all dead: This collection evened out somewhere in the middle.Held out of town in the marbled mid-century pavilion of a Florentine racetrack, Coppens’s looks were a dense mix of ingredients. A pale check tailored men’s jacket with cut-away cream panels at the back of each arm was worn above a bright red pair of silkily technical/sportswear pants. A same check pair of women’s pants with a cream officer’s flash at the leg were worn below a racerback midriff-baring gym top. This was resistance work, checking the capacity of disjunctive source material, new and old, to work against each other. Moto-inspired monochrome track pants with claw-slash panels sat below violently red and blue knits declaring “Acid” in a contemporary font. On outerwear, inner linings with poacher’s pockets were transferred to the exterior of lightweight piped parkas that were vaguely painful in their complication. Coppens had told Vogue Runway before the show that he’d employed pattern cutters to work on his enhanced womenswear offerings and these pieces were strong. A fine black slip dress with a high slit to the side worn under a one-shoulder-styled cardigan looked sleek, while a similar concept yellow dress with a red panel and a high, piped, and sporty back detail in violet was the standout women’s look here.What didn’t work was the overabundance of seemingly functional details that didn’t stand up to functional scrutiny, like those poacher’s pockets that you’d sit on the contents of, or the shearling-necked key chains too wide to merit the pressure of the keys. A bit like the premise of the collection—aBefore Sunrise–meets–Mad Maxlove story about a couple named Max and Tequila—this was obfuscation, content without meaning. What did work was when Coppens succumbed to ornament without any pretense at pragmatism—the insertion of white pleated cuffs below a navy techno-Barbour and irregular paneled tracksuit looked great, especially in tandem with the white sneakers (a reveal from Under Armour, for which he is executive creative director of its UAS line) below it.
|
Luke Leitch
|
January 12, 2017
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5877f7f871b368a625a10408/master/w_1280,c_limit/_COT3657.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2017
|
menswear
|
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]
] |
|
Tim Coppens
|
spring-2017-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-menswear/tim-coppens
|
Remember clubbing? Do people still do that? You know—roll deep, head to some warehouse where the music is so loud it obliterates all reality, and emerge busted at sunrise to face the city you left behind the night before. That kind of clubbing.Tim Coppensremembers those cockeyed mornings. Their surreal attitude informed his latest collection.Coppens got at his post-clubbing vibe via a canny mix of sharp geometry and willed ersatz-ness. The geometry was witnessed in the emphasis on grid check and houndstooth, and graphic color-blocking and stripes. The ersatz-ness, meanwhile, was most overt in the collection’s soft shapes, like the blouson bombers for men and women, slouchy trousers and distended shorts and shirtsleeves, but it was also to be found in his clever layered-look outerwear, lightweight coats and anoraks that offered a meticulous reinterpretation of sundry items sloughed over each other willy-nilly. From a purely practical standpoint, the layered-look pieces were a smart proposition—an armored-up, streetwise aesthetic in a format suitable for warm weather.But Coppens’s most inspired touches here were in his details. There was a lovely poetic quality to the blurred stripe edges on his needle-punched knits, for instance, while his kimono-inspired jet print boasted an intriguing, unexpected tactility, inasmuch as the print had been cut out of the original fabric and re-embossed on houndstooth jackets. These kinds of gestures really captured the tone of bygone comedown mornings—the way the blunt shapes of the streetscape go all watercolor, viewed by bleary eyes; the surprise of sensation returning to dance-numbed extremities. Man, being young was great.
|
Maya Singer
|
July 12, 2016
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5785132d79adf90b5c9a838f/master/w_1280,c_limit/_AN_3353.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2017
|
menswear
|
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]
] |
|
Tim Coppens
|
fall-2016-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/tim-coppens
|
We live in the age of the algorithm. The logic of the algorithm is as follows: There is a formula for taste, and the trick is to uncover it. He who likes X and Y will undoubtedly be interested in Z, as well—it’s all perfectly predictable. The thing is, though, algorithms routinely fail. How many times have you been suggested a product on Amazon, based on your previous purchases, that struck you as irrelevant (or even offensive) to your taste? You should celebrate the miscalculation: Your un-scriptable humanity is laid bare in the error. We are never as easy to anticipate as we seem.Tim Coppens’s latest collection was a tribute to human unpredictability. Coppens didn’t intend that; rather, the meaning emerged from the way he ducked and dodged the expected, usually right at the moment when you thought you’d figured out what he was up to. Like last season, this collection drew on his memories of his ’90s-era adolescence, the lazy skateboarding afternoons and post-grunge soundtrack suggested in the slack shapes of pants and the copious use of plaid. What made the collection a more compelling-than-average exercise in nostalgia, however, was its specificity—this wasn’t aboutanyone’sexperience, coming of age in the ’90s, it was about Coppens’s, and he touched on a few themes that mattered, back then, specifically to him. The most obvious example of that was his satellite motif, deployed in prints and artful embroideries, but it was also evidenced in the Belgian lilt of Coppens’s rigorous outerwear and in touches like the dappling of a soft salmon color that was, he explained before the show, inspired by a particular shot inDazed & Confusedof Eminem.Coppens also said before the show that he was more focused, this time out, on creating great individual pieces than on making some large conceptual point. And virtually every item here seemed closely attended to, whether via the addition of detail, like the lacing on the back of a satin bomber, or the subtraction of it, as in a perfectly pared-down olive wool coat from the capsule-sized range of womenswear. These clothes will have a productive life on the sales floor. On the runway, though, the collection as a whole came off as something less than the sum of its very good parts. Coppens’s strong point of view, and the sharp touch he brought to his best pieces, was swamped by too much layering and the inclusion of too many items, such as hoodies, that de-elevated the collection’s tone. The menswear was strong enough to escape unscathed, but Coppens is still finding his footing with the womenswear, and it required a cleaner presentation. The exception to that rule was his exemplary outerwear, where his deft tailoring shone through. Coppens has the makings of a major designer—with a little editing, his winning unpredictability will be in plain view.
|
Maya Singer
|
February 4, 2016
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/56b3615863ff19ef62e6fb13/master/w_1280,c_limit/_MON0009.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2016
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Tim Coppens
|
fall-2016-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-menswear/tim-coppens
|
We live in the age of the algorithm. The logic of the algorithm is as follows: There is a formula for taste, and the trick is to uncover it. He who likes X and Y will undoubtedly be interested in Z, as well—it’s all perfectly predictable. The thing is, though, algorithms routinely fail. How many times have you been suggested a product on Amazon, based on your previous purchases, that struck you as irrelevant (or even offensive) to your taste? You should celebrate the miscalculation: Your un-scriptable humanity is laid bare in the error. We are never as easy to anticipate as we seem.Tim Coppens’s latest collection was a tribute to human unpredictability. Coppens didn’t intend that; rather, the meaning emerged from the way he ducked and dodged the expected, usually right at the moment when you thought you’d figured out what he was up to. Like last season, this collection drew on his memories of his ’90s-era adolescence, the lazy skateboarding afternoons and post-grunge soundtrack suggested in the slack shapes of pants and the copious use of plaid. What made the collection a more compelling-than-average exercise in nostalgia, however, was its specificity—this wasn’t aboutanyone’sexperience, coming of age in the ’90s, it was about Coppens’s, and he touched on a few themes that mattered, back then, specifically to him. The most obvious example of that was his satellite motif, deployed in prints and artful embroideries, but it was also evidenced in the Belgian lilt of Coppens’s rigorous outerwear and in touches like the dappling of a soft salmon color that was, he explained before the show, inspired by a particular shot inDazed & Confusedof Eminem.Coppens also said before the show that he was more focused, this time out, on creating great individual pieces than on making some large conceptual point. And virtually every item here seemed closely attended to, whether via the addition of detail, like the lacing on the back of a satin bomber, or the subtraction of it, as in a perfectly pared-down olive wool coat from the capsule-sized range of womenswear. These clothes will have a productive life on the sales floor. On the runway, though, the collection as a whole came off as something less than the sum of its very good parts. Coppens’s strong point of view, and the sharp touch he brought to his best pieces, was swamped by too much layering and the inclusion of too many items, such as hoodies, that de-elevated the collection’s tone. The menswear was strong enough to escape unscathed, but Coppens is still finding his footing with the womenswear, and it required a cleaner presentation. The exception to that rule was his exemplary outerwear, where his deft tailoring shone through. Coppens has the makings of a major designer—with a little editing, his winning unpredictability will be in plain view.
|
Maya Singer
|
February 4, 2016
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/56b2b267ff7df6b669d13921/master/w_1280,c_limit/_MON0009.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2016
|
menswear
|
[
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]
] |
|
Tim Coppens
|
spring-2016-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/tim-coppens
|
As seems to be de rigueur at the moment (seeRaf Simons), Belgian designerTim Coppensdelved into the mist of his own adolescent psyche for Spring. Quite logically, the women’s collection—shown in an empty storefront, where the lookbook was being shot, around the corner from his Soho studio—is practically a mirror image of his menswear. After all, men’s was his first calling, for which he won aCFDA Fashion Awardlast year, establishing the upstart among New York's fashion firmament.For 30-something Belgians, plunging into ’90s-era adolescence necessarily means a revisit of clubland. Indeed, Coppens said he went to raves every weekend for five years. He translated that time definitely not wasted into melting mushroom prints on bowling-league jackets and sweatshirts, an amoeba print taken from his teenage notebook, and a fantastic Prince of Wales blue seersucker evocative of ballpoint doodles. Bombers—some cropped, others keeping their original men’s proportions—were another highlight; they came baggy yet richly detailed with pockets, padding, and raw edges. Thick-rib tanks and Japanese denim skirts in darker shades lent another dose of not-too-retro appeal.Despite the rave-girl roots, traces of grown-up tailoring ran throughout in silky evening jackets and a floor-length diaphanous black tunic. Meanwhile, the sponsors of that CFDA Fashion Award, Swarovski, have clearly taken a shine to Coppens, supplying him with loads of beads—pearly ones, not flashy rhinestones, in keeping with his minimalist tendencies.
|
Lee Carter
|
September 10, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55f212c60f1173ca3340fe81/master/w_1280,c_limit/tim-coppens-spring-2016-001.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2016
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Tim Coppens
|
spring-2016-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-menswear/tim-coppens
|
Last season found Tim Coppens in a relatively somber and straitlaced mood. This time out, Coppens loosened up. Way up. You wouldn't necessarily call Coppens' latest a "frothy" collection—the tone was, per usual for him, a touch astringent for that—but as he conjured the look and attitude of aimless youth hanging out poolside, Coppens did offer up more than a little joie de vivre. Much of the credit went to his color palette here, with its electric jolts of yellow, coral, and an especially nice not-quite-aqueous blue. There was also a certain loopy appeal to Coppens' marbled jacquards and globular raised prints—novelty looks that somewhat overshadowed items of a more durable excellence, such as the navy track pants in supersoft washed suede, or the buttery brown leather pullover shaped, more or less, like an old-school Patagonia fleece. That leather "fleece" clued you in to the collection's debt to mid-1990s style. But there was no doubt about that anyway, given Coppens' entirely proper emphasis on his terrific, new skater-y pant, a baggy, slightly cropped silhouette cinched at the waist with a drawstring. Guys will snap up that style—and, speaking for the fairer sex, for whom Coppens began designing last season—so will girls. Ladies like to loiter poolside, too.
|
Maya Singer
|
July 15, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c653f2c4e6a2d8dcdee7ce/master/w_1280,c_limit/_MON0547.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2016
|
menswear
|
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] |
|
Tim Coppens
|
fall-2015-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-menswear/tim-coppens
|
Like Raf Simons, Tim Coppens was born in "a small village in Belgium." Clearly such places incubate an acute sensitivity to the ardor of youth cults in the Great Elsewhere. Coppens' latest collection was infused, he claimed, with the hard edges of skinhead: less sport than usual, more tailoring, not a lot of layering. An MA-1 jacket in a lustrous midnight green was a skin's dream. A key decorative element was small embroidered emblems, like the badges that skins, punks, and new wavers wore. Also embroidered here and there: the slightly chilling rubric "Acid in my heart."The darkness of that sentiment trickled through the collection, even though Coppens himself seems like a cheerful enough fellow. He said he was keen to move things along, not to be the guy who was so identified with sweatshirts and track pants. In the interests of which, he went severe and formal. It created some striking looks. A long sleeveless coat, a leather harness snapping shut like a safety belt over a suit jacket, a rich camel coat with a long black scarf that zipped off—there was the dressiness of the Ultravox '80s in these looks. Kimono lapels loaned a hint of Japan, which fit right in. Cummerbunds binding waists over bare skin played their part.It felt like the sort of step Coppens needed to be taking, especially after last season, so there was some irony in the fact that the strongest element in the collection was actually the sporty something-or-other that he was trying to soft-pedal. A tricky thing to do when you're showing pieces as grabby as a huge coat and cargo pants cut from vintage army duffel bags (complete with straps), a black cashmere bomber with sleeves in a buttery tan lambskin, or an oversize hoodie cut from the same material. Coppens' womenswear cleaved to the blueprint of his men's designs, which meant his girls were a little like suedettes. A parka with a shirttail over a pleated skirt looked like a dressy school uniform. Coppens said that was the effect he was after.
|
Tim Blanks
|
February 15, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c651d708298d8be22908ad/master/w_1280,c_limit/_MON0002.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2015
|
menswear
|
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] |
|
Tim Coppens
|
fall-2015-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/tim-coppens
|
Like Raf Simons, Tim Coppens was born in "a small village in Belgium." Clearly such places incubate an acute sensitivity to the ardor of youth cults in the Great Elsewhere. Coppens' latest collection was infused, he claimed, with the hard edges of skinhead: less sport than usual, more tailoring, not a lot of layering. An MA-1 jacket in a lustrous midnight green was a skin's dream. A key decorative element was small embroidered emblems, like the badges that skins, punks, and new wavers wore. Also embroidered here and there: the slightly chilling rubric "Acid in my heart."The darkness of that sentiment trickled through the collection, even though Coppens himself seems like a cheerful enough fellow. He said he was keen to move things along, not to be the guy who was so identified with sweatshirts and track pants. In the interests of which, he went severe and formal. It created some striking looks. A long sleeveless coat, a leather harness snapping shut like a safety belt over a suit jacket, a rich camel coat with a long black scarf that zipped off—there was the dressiness of the Ultravox '80s in these looks. Kimono lapels loaned a hint of Japan, which fit right in. Cummerbunds binding waists over bare skin played their part.It felt like the sort of step Coppens needed to be taking, especially after last season, so there was some irony in the fact that the strongest element in the collection was actually the sporty something-or-other that he was trying to soft-pedal. A tricky thing to do when you're showing pieces as grabby as a huge coat and cargo pants cut from vintage army duffel bags (complete with straps), a black cashmere bomber with sleeves in a buttery tan lambskin, or an oversize hoodie cut from the same material. Coppens' womenswear cleaved to the blueprint of his men's designs, which meant his girls were a little like suedettes. A parka with a shirttail over a pleated skirt looked like a dressy school uniform. Coppens said that was the effect he was after.
|
Tim Blanks
|
February 15, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c651d708298d8be2290614/master/w_1280,c_limit/_MON0002.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2015
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Tim Coppens
|
spring-2015-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/tim-coppens
|
"When your halo slips for good, you'll have to wear your hood." Tim Coppens quoted lyrics from Madchester figurehead Ian Brown to set the mood for his new collection. It seems a little early in Coppens' career to be tuning in to such a downbeat sentiment, especially now that he's attracting major corporate attention (he was a finalist in the first edition of the LVMH Young Fashion Designer Prize), but he wanted the rudeness, the arrogance, the hint of hooliganism that Brown embodied. That was something that really appealed to him when he was a kid back in Belgium, and he felt it was an easy way to communicate what he called the undercurrent of violence in the 40 looks he showed for men and women today.Violence? Clearly in the eye of the beholder. Coppens is a structured, methodical designer, in keeping with his Belgian origins. It shows in the precision of his cuts and his layering. But he insists he also has an appetite for imperfection. That's how the errant Brown insinuated himself into the picture. "Violence" may have been too strong a word, but there was definitely something moremilitantthan usual about Coppens' clothes. It was there in a khaki field jacket or a blouson and trench in a camo-style print. The fact that he titled the collection Jungle Sunrise also steered you toward an Asian special-ops scenario, because there was otherwise not much that counted as tropical. Some blurrily aqueous neons offered a welcome flash of color in an otherwise coolly monochrome world. You craved more of their energy.But Coppens has really built his reputation on a hybrid of sports- and utilitywear, and there was plenty of that here to feed his fans. Key fabrics were mesh and a cotton-nylon blend, cut into shorts, track pants, and parkas. "It's a collection about movement," said the designer, who himself has just taken up boxing. The silhouette was appropriately athletic, translated in his womenswear into a zipped, abbreviated body consciousness. The runway indicated how important womenswear is becoming for Coppens, so it bodes well that one of his best looks was a parka dress with a pleated back. At this stage, though, Coppens' promise still outweighs his practice.
|
Tim Blanks
|
September 8, 2014
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c651c008298d8be2274bd6/master/w_1280,c_limit/_LKV0107.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2015
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Timo Weiland
|
fall-2020-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-ready-to-wear/timo-weiland
|
It’s been three-and-a-half years since Timo Weiland was on Vogue Runway. The brand took some time off, and it gave Weiland and his cofounders, Alan Eckstein and Donna Kang, a chance to explore other creative outlets: Weiland still DJs and launched The Lead Innovation Summit; Eckstein designs furniture; and Kang cofounded a women’s eveningwear brand.At the same time, they were witnessing significant shifts in the fashion industry: Department stores were closing, more brands were going direct-to-consumer, and the brands that managed to get ahead were the ones with narrower, more focused assortments, sometimes zeroing in on just one thing. It got them thinking about a modern version of T.W., and fall 2020 was their relaunch of sorts. They’ve adopted a modern business model: The trio has partnered with Groupe, a platform that lends infrastructure and shared resources to emerging designers and gives them a physical space to meet with customers in its Bowery showroom. The new Timo Weiland also has a more 2020-relevant concept: gender-fluid, wear-anywhere cotton-twill suiting in a rainbow of colors.Don’t call it uniform dressing, though. Weiland and Eckstein both wore varying twists on the tailoring: Weiland in blush trousers and a striped T-shirt, and Eckstein in a black double-breasted suit with sneakers. Thanks to the heavier cotton twill, the suits could go low-key or dressed up, punkish or straight edge, depending on how they’re styled. Models at the brand’s New York Men’s Day presentation wore button-downs over T-shirts, clunky Dr. Martens, and mashed-up colors, from turquoise and brown to shades of pink and red. Weiland says they’ve already been making a few bespoke suits for celebrity clients, including the Jonas Brothers, who have made bold, monochromatic tailoring their signature look. He’s hoping people will buy a few and mix and match the colors, then add their own personal flair with accessories and footwear. Even better, he reported that a jacket and trousers will come in under $1,000, considerably lower than some of T.W.’s peers. You can’t beat the price per wear of an excellent blazer.
|
Emily Farra
|
February 5, 2020
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e3b24bfcb671f0009967c1a/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Timo-Weiland-Mens-Fall-2020.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2020
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Timo Weiland
|
fall-2020-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-menswear/timo-weiland
|
It’s been three-and-a-half years since Timo Weiland was on Vogue Runway. The brand took some time off, and it gave Weiland and his cofounders, Alan Eckstein and Donna Kang, a chance to explore other creative outlets: Weiland still DJs and launched The Lead Innovation Summit; Eckstein designs furniture; and Kang cofounded a women’s eveningwear brand.At the same time, they were witnessing significant shifts in the fashion industry: Department stores were closing, more brands were going direct-to-consumer, and the brands that managed to get ahead were the ones with narrower, more focused assortments, sometimes zeroing in on just one thing. It got them thinking about a modern version of T.W., and fall 2020 was their relaunch of sorts. They’ve adopted a modern business model: The trio has partnered with Groupe, a platform that lends infrastructure and shared resources to emerging designers and gives them a physical space to meet with customers in its Bowery showroom. The new Timo Weiland also has a more 2020-relevant concept: gender-fluid, wear-anywhere cotton-twill suiting in a rainbow of colors.Don’t call it uniform dressing, though. Weiland and Eckstein both wore varying twists on the tailoring: Weiland in blush trousers and a striped T-shirt, and Eckstein in a black double-breasted suit with sneakers. Thanks to the heavier cotton twill, the suits could go low-key or dressed up, punkish or straight edge, depending on how they’re styled. Models at the brand’s New York Men’s Day presentation wore button-downs over T-shirts, clunky Dr. Martens, and mashed-up colors, from turquoise and brown to shades of pink and red. Weiland says they’ve already been making a few bespoke suits for celebrity clients, including the Jonas Brothers, who have made bold, monochromatic tailoring their signature look. He’s hoping people will buy a few and mix and match the colors, then add their own personal flair with accessories and footwear. Even better, he reported that a jacket and trousers will come in under $1,000, considerably lower than some of T.W.’s peers. You can’t beat the price per wear of an excellent blazer.
|
Emily Farra
|
February 5, 2020
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e3b23e27e24e300080f014c/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Timo-Weiland-Mens-Fall-2020.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2020
|
menswear
|
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]
] |
|
Timo Weiland
|
spring-2017-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/timo-weiland
|
Sometimes the fashion industry is criticized for being too exclusive, but theTimo Weilandgang is all about celebrating the friends they’ve made since starting the label in 2010. With each new collection, Weiland and his codesigners Donna Kang and Alan Eckstein tend to nix a specific reference and instead find inspiration in their inner circle. They noticed the stylists, DJs, and creative types in their lives were channeling the ’90s, so today’s collection—presented at the new Samsung store in the Meatpacking District—was big on graphic animal prints, slip dresses, and wide-leg trousers. The models even wore satin scrunchies in their hair.This wasn’t the grunge aesthetic you might associate with the ’90s, and there was a little bit of the ’80s in the pink, blue, and orange giraffe-spotted and zebra-striped tops and trousers. Team Timo insists they design for New York women, but it’s hard to picture many of them wearing those vibrant pieces. In such a neutral-inclined city, bold colors and notice-me prints tend to feel tired quickly. More grounded were the extra-long silk shirts—worn open like trench coats—and a polka-dot maxi dress layered over a knit polo.Retro suede jackets are also becoming a Timo signature, first introduced in their Spring ’17 men’s collection and seen here with leather patches and ring-pull zippers. The designers would do well to include more souped-up basics like that in future collections—they make for better investments than zany prints or trendy silhouettes.
|
Emily Farra
|
September 11, 2016
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/57d60059f758697d0d6b8cee/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-tim-weiland-etw-spring-2017.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2017
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Timo Weiland
|
spring-2017-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-menswear/timo-weiland
|
The trio behindTimo Weiland—Alan Eckstein and Donna Kang, as well as the namesake—poked around Grandpa’s closet, literally, to pull off their best-executed collection yet. Held in the Cadillac House, home of Retail Lab (a rotating pop-up shop, starting with Timo Weiland, in partnership with the CFDA, catering to those with a see-now-buy-now mind-set), the generational nod could hardly have been more fitting.When articulating their Spring vision backstage, Eckstein spoke of a “human movement” and “all walks of life,” referring to the inclusive, respectful nature of the label, based on what they see men actually wearing or what men actually want to wear. To that end, all the neckties—of the nubby-knit variety—belonged to his grandfather, adding a nostalgic, retro dimension to an already spiffy collection of square-cut, front-crease basics.Suede biker jackets in black and Werther’s brown, pared down to exclude the belt, were the clear standout, along with thin sweaters with chevron patterns and color-blocked reds and blues. Silk shirts, some with a subtly kitsch leopard print, others with abstracted polka dots, were modeled on ’50s bowling shirts. “Ultimately, we were thinking about what matters to families, things that are handed down from generation to generation,” said Kang. “Nowadays, electronics and devices are what people use and love, but no one is going to hand down an iPad.”
|
Lee Carter
|
July 15, 2016
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5788f7e8b5db872b52787539/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-timo-weiland-2017.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2017
|
menswear
|
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] |
|
Timo Weiland
|
resort-2017
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2017/timo-weiland
|
Is prep making a comeback? A flip throughTimo Weiland’s new Resort collection might just convince you. Weiland and his codesigners, Alan Eckstein and Donna Kang, have had a busy year: They’ve refocused their vision (now it’s less sporty, more sophisticated), shifted their production to Europe (resulting in much better fabrics), and split their efforts between their own label and their collaborations with Banana Republic. Working with the retailer had a surprising impact on their Resort lineup; Weiland was remembering all the Banana jackets he wore with his grade school uniform, and suddenly he was designing tennis sweaters, track jackets, and pleated skirts.Classic American style has always been part of the Timo Weiland aesthetic; here it was balanced with silk slip dresses inspired by Michelle Pfeiffer inScarface. “We wanted something a little more sensual,” Kang said. The slips didn’t totally gel with the preppier, color-blocked items, but with slip dresses trending on and off the runway, what contemporary designer could resist? Weiland shoppers looking for something a bit less formulaic would be smart to pick up the ice-pink blazer or striped silk duster coat instead; both were seasonless and came with decorative ribbons that could be wrapped around the biceps or left to dangle by the wrists.
|
Emily Farra
|
June 15, 2016
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/57616059beb20e861041c0ca/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-timo-weiland-resort-17.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2017
|
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] |
||
Timo Weiland
|
fall-2016-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/timo-weiland
|
For a brand to compete in the contemporary marketplace, it needs to have a unique, desirable vision that also appeals to a wide variety of shoppers. Maybe it’s known for the best leather jackets, or specializes in printed dresses or cutting-edge knitwear. All too often a designer simply churns out the same no-brainer trends and “must-haves” and ends up blending in with everything else on the department store floor.Timo Weiland’s “thing” hasn’t always been clear, but in the past few seasons, Weiland and his codesigners Alan Eckstein and Donna Kang have zeroed in on their strengths and reset their signatures. Their idea of wearable, cool-girl style is a casual mix of preppy, sporty, and feminine flourishes, best seen in their “combo dresses,” which mimic sweaters or tunics layered over skirts. What stood out in their Fall collection was a group of velvet pieces (including a navy velvet bomber) and some extra-wide trousers, which Weiland said have already been a hit with buyers. We could have predicted as much—roomy pants have quickly replaced the cropped flare as Fall’s dominant shape.All that velvet was no doubt popular with the buyers, too. The regal fabric is everywhere right now, and team Weiland used a particularly shimmery velvet for a midi dress with bows on the shoulders. To keep it light, they added strips of sheer tulle around the bottom—no one wants to feel like they’re wearing a velvet curtain. As in many of this week’s collections, texture outweighed color and print here: Velvet was mixed with pleated chiffon, a silk blouse was tucked into a fuzzy plaid skirt, and deep-V ribbed sweaters were thrown over zip-up cardigans. Some of those ideas were more successful than others—for example, a blush dress layered over slouchy pants felt a little been there, done that—but you could tell it was Timo right away.
|
Emily Farra
|
February 18, 2016
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/56c5dbfdd2a53b2613f46a9c/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-timo-weiland-fall-2016-ready-to-wear.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2016
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Timo Weiland
|
spring-2016-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/timo-weiland
|
First and foremost, Timo Weiland’s clothes are meant to be wearable. Add flattering and comfortable to the list, too.Weilandand his codesigners,Donna KangandAlan Eckstein, are very much a part of the New York fashion scene, but they aren’t about to endorse completely sheer dresses or high-concept frippery. That doesn’t mean the clothes are boring, though; it seems the goal of every contemporary label is to master easy to-wear pieces that still feel special. Over the past few seasons, the three have gotten closer to that target by sharpening their focus and embracing a new, richer vision.For their Spring collection, they were inspired by the sweet, heady feeling of a new relationship. “It’s when you want to feel really pretty, but also comfortable,” Kang explained. For example, their flowing skirts and dresses had to pass the “cross-legged” test, so you wouldn’t think twice about sprawling out on the grass with your special someone. Little cutouts and bow-tie details also managed to be feminine but not cloying; the same was true of the ballet pink, navy, white, and olive color palette. Elsewhere, the trio relied on soft textures to inject a sense of romance: see the cable-knit sweater paired with a fraying tweed skirt, or a crisp, strapless poplin tunic layered over silk pants. Either of those looks would make an ideal starting point for girls hoping to embrace the season’s breezier, less structured sensibilities without going too far outside their comfort zone.
|
Emily Farra
|
September 18, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55fbc66234bc513e11d8b094/master/w_1280,c_limit/timo-weiland-spring-2016-018.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2016
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Timo Weiland
|
resort-2016
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2016/timo-weiland
|
What would a New Yorker wear in the South of France? That question was the starting point for Timo Weiland's Resort collection, but don't expect nautical stripes and polo shirts. "Our inspiration is never super-literal," Weiland explained during a preview. "It's more about the spirit of a New Yorker in this really relaxed, coastal environment."The season took the label in a new direction, and the most noticeable shift was in the silhouettes. Timo Weiland is known for stretchy, body-skimming knits, but this outing included swishy chiffon skirts, tea-length dresses, and flippy miniskirts that could also be worn as strapless tops. The lookbook captured the sexier, more offhand vibe to a T; Weiland and his co-designers, Donna Kang and Alan Eckstein, shot it right in their studio, and some looks were artfully improvised, such as two dresses layered together or a mixed-rib knit twisted around the shoulders like a scarf. That thrown-together quality felt particularly fresh for the brand, which has skewed more minimalist and sporty in the past. A jungle-print chiffon dress and a chunky sweater with shirting sliced into the hem both presented endless styling possibilities. "This feels like the year of people just being themselves," Weiland said. "We love when a girl reinterprets something totally differently on her own."
|
Emily Farra
|
June 18, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650bc08298d8be21548cc/master/w_1280,c_limit/timo-weiland-001-1366a.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2016
|
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] |
||
Timo Weiland
|
fall-2015-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/timo-weiland
|
At any given moment, Saul Leiter's arresting photos of 1940s and '50s New York City—regular people and moments captured through fogged-up cab and store windows—are pinned up on Timo Weiland's mood boards. "They could have been shot last week," Weiland said after the show, speaking for himself and his partners, Donna Kang and Alan Eckstein. The spirit of those images, of people going about their business, was what drove the latest collection. And it felt like we were there, peeking through the window at something interesting.The clothes were based on reality and muses who walk among the rest of us: Kang herself and the label's fit model and longtime friend, Luiza Madejak, who knit the chunky hats worn throughout. Loosened-up striped bombers and off-the-shoulder sweatshirts topped pencil skirts and pajama pants that fell into a "tomboy-pretty" feel that Weiland talked about. Blink and you missed watches sewn into the sleeves of two flight jackets—a hint of a collection with Casio next year.The Timo Weiland design trio has a way of making looser silhouettes and layers seem alluring, and inviting to the girl who doesn't try (or wants to look like she doesn't). Case in point: an oversize gray turtleneck and matching hat worn over a swingy lilac mini, and a silk lilac button-down half-tucked into athleisure knit sweatpants. Doc Martens (updated as calf hair or patent booties) and shirts tied at the waist brought in a subtle '90s grunge feel that played into the real-world vibe.
|
Nandini D'Souza Wolfe
|
February 12, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c651d508298d8be228e6d9/master/w_1280,c_limit/_A2X0007.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2015
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Timo Weiland
|
pre-fall-2015
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2015/timo-weiland
|
Designers often pull inspiration from far-flung, exotic destinations, but Timo Weiland, Alan Eckstein, and Donna Kang kept things local for Pre-Fall. Frequent road trips to Florida to visit Weiland's family inspired the collection's saturated palette, sporty details, and pared-back silhouettes. "The modern, mid-century interiors of Florida influenced the more streamlined feeling," Kang explained. Those clean lines were juxtaposed against rich textures like knife pleats, sheer panels, and thick jacquards. A blue-and-silver dot print looked vaguely feline but was actually an abstract interpretation of raindrops on a windshield. The trio describe their clothes as "preppy with a twist," adding striped piping to T-shirt dresses and incorporating lots of ribbed, skintight separates in a stretchy rayon-nylon-Lycra blend. "Sexy" is relatively new territory for them, and the body-con-averse might pass over those pieces. For girls who prefer the label's breezier, girlier side, there were flippy tuxedo dresses and minis to spare.
|
Emily Farra
|
December 19, 2014
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c651cf08298d8be2287c90/master/w_1280,c_limit/Timo_Weiland_001_1366.jpg"
] |
pre-fall
|
2015
|
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] |
||
Tocca
|
fall-2015-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/tocca
|
Tocca is scaling things back from here on out, but the Saint Lucia-founded label is still long on charm. Emma Fletcher has repositioned it as a more accessible, high-end contemporary brand (with a lower price point to match) and is zeroing in on easy-to-wear shapes and sweet prints. For Fall, she drew inspiration fromThe Butterfly Ball and the Grasshopper's Feast,a trippy '70s children's book based on a 19th-century poem by William Roscoe. "It's this whimsical kids' book, but it's actually really psychedelic," Fletcher explained. She interpreted the colorful tale as dreamy silk florals and mushroom prints—we don't need to remind you the Summer of Love is trending—which spoke to her penchant for playful details. (Look closely enough, and the purple fronds resemble marijuana leaves.) Elsewhere, a '60s theme emerged by way of long-sleeve shifts, round-collar coats with oversize buttons, and pouf-shoulder dresses.Fletcher's mash-up of girlish silhouettes and eccentric prints was characteristically off-kilter, but in comparison to her last Tocca collection—Fall '14—these clothes were downright demure. Velvet bra tops and see-through dresses are clearly a thing of the past as Tocca moves in a more market-friendly direction, but Fletcher's instinct for dolly-bird silhouettes was on point. There were still flickers of sex appeal, too, like the trim black jumpsuit with an extra-deep V-neck.
|
Emily Farra
|
February 11, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c651d508298d8be228e662/master/w_1280,c_limit/tocca-001-1366.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2015
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Tocca
|
fall-2014-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2014-ready-to-wear/tocca
|
This was the season Emma Fletcher said, "To hell with it!" After two years at the helm of Tocca, Fletcher decided it was time to let it rip and give that demure Tocca girl a chance to go (relatively) wild. Bold floral and leaf prints. Fur clutches. Sheer blouses and bra tops. A recurring theme here, which expressed the psychology of this collection well, was of fabric collaged together in a way that felt improvisational; the technique made for some strong pieces, like a bias-cut dress in tonal blanks and red burnout velvet, or a blouse half lace, half Marimekko-esque floral. But the standout looks here made a more straightforward impact—the sexy velvet suits, or the silver lamé slipdress topped oh-so-insouciantly with a nubby cream-and-yellow cardigan.Thatgirl gets the whole "to hell with it" thing. So, too, the one wandering around town in a bra and tap short with a timelessly fantastic navy shearling coat. Very simple garment, that, but well executed and evincing a muscularity not normally associated with Tocca. Here's hoping Fletcher continues to pursue that dimension of the brand.
|
Maya Singer
|
February 5, 2014
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6513308298d8be21d4de7/master/w_1280,c_limit/KIM_1834.1366x2048.JPG"
] |
fall
|
2014
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Tocca
|
spring-2014-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2014-ready-to-wear/tocca
|
Sometimes clothes can just be a little too pretty. It's a fine line, and Tocca designer Emma Fletcher earned a devoted following for her old label, Lyell, because she was so intuitively good at landing on the right side of it. This season, though, she over-sugared the mix. The collection was a riff on off-duty ballerinas, a rather sweet reference to start out with, but one that Fletcher spun in a streetwise, New York City-in-the-seventies direction. A few of the ensembles seemed to have wandered off the set of some never-made Scorsese film about a dancer—the fluttery crop top worn with a pair of golden yellow cigarette pants, or a pale blue and white pleated midi skirt and sheer knit tank. But that dancer character never really cohered: One minute she was a cutie-pie in a stars ’n’ clouds-print romper; next, the second coming of Jean Harlow in floor-length bias-cut dresses patchworked with lace. Those dresses were very appealing, and there were several other appealing looks, too—the pintucked blouses, for instance, or that pleated trapeze dress with a sexy dive in the back, or the lipstick red jumpsuit with a ruffled sleeve. Plenty of commercial viability here, then, but the point of view was wanting.
|
Maya Singer
|
September 4, 2013
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6511c08298d8be21bb768/master/w_1280,c_limit/_AGA2073.1366x2048.JPG"
] |
spring
|
2014
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Tocca
|
resort-2014
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2014/tocca
|
After a murder-mystery-themed collection for Fall, Tocca's Emma Fletcher decided to lighten things up for Resort. The new lineup was inspired by candy of all sorts. Make no mistake, Fletcher didn't go all Willy Wonka on us, but she did name each piece after a different confection, saying, "I wanted it to be like a candy store, and you simply pick what you want." Delicate blouses with diagonal-striped lace insets reminded the designer of Liquorice Allsorts, which were a favorite of hers growing up. Other highlights included a short-sleeve Taffy jacket and its matching A-line skirt cut from watermelon-colored suede, as well as a black crepe Gobstopper jumpsuit with fluttery sleeves. At the end of the day, it was more about wearable clothes than a cutesy concept. Fletcher delivered on that with a practical waterproof mackintosh coat with a tentlike drape in back and a flirty burnout velvet frock that had a retro forties appeal. Sweet.
|
Brittany Adams
|
June 9, 2013
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6511608298d8be21b4dac/master/w_1280,c_limit/Tocca_001_1366.1366x2048.JPG"
] |
resort
|
2014
|
[
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] |
||
Tocca
|
fall-2013-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2013-ready-to-wear/tocca
|
"It's based on an 'If I murdered my husband, this is the suit I'd wear to court' kind of thing," said Tocca designer Emma Fletcher at the brand's presentation. It took no great leap to imagine the reformed Roxie Hart shimmying into Tocca's black silk dress with inset diamonds of burnout velvet. Or perhaps she'd prefer the "Who, me?" ensemble of a lingerie pink silk cami spliced with French lace, shown tucked into a blush pink, calf-length A-line skirt with matching blazer.On the more modern side was a lambskin leather dress with a fishnetlike panel over the chest that came from the Carlo Mollino photographs Fletcher's been looking at, and some silky spaghetti-strapped slips of dresses. But best of all were the cover-ups. Coats, including a double-breasted herringbone number with leather-trimmed chevron pockets and a more formal black princess-seamed option, looked substantial enough to weather the current and any future storms. The overall effect was consistently Tocca: more vintage than pioneering, but just the sort of reserved yet seductive clothes that many women love to wear.
|
Emily Cronin
|
February 7, 2013
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6510a08298d8be21a6f1e/master/w_1280,c_limit/_FSM6022.1366x2048.JPG"
] |
fall
|
2013
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Tocca
|
spring-2013-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2013-ready-to-wear/tocca
|
At the Tocca presentation, designer Emma Fletcher said that she likes it when things are a bit psychedelic; her presentation, with models posing between multiple mirrors in stationary carousels, was just that. You could see the girls and their clothes from all angles, but the multiple reflections made things quite trippy. Intrigued by kaleidoscopes and designs on old-school hot-air balloons, Fletcher came to Spring's silhouettes by cutting out chevrons and zigzags. The resulting geometries are more linear than what Fletcher is used to working with, but the use of delicate knits and lace insets kept things soft and feminine. A sweet day dress with a pleated skirt and sheer, paneled top might be too demure to wear on an acid trip, but it would be perfect for a spin in a fire-fueled balloon.
|
Alison Baenen
|
September 6, 2012
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650f208298d8be218cc9f/master/w_1280,c_limit/_MG_0003.900x1350.JPG"
] |
spring
|
2013
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Todd Lynn
|
pre-fall-2015
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2015/todd-lynn
|
It's hard to look fondly upon a designer whose show is so late that you miss the next presentation and who then conspires to have his audience depart half-deafened with tinnitus. But Todd Lynn's sincerity comes through just as clearly as his very loud guest band, Slaves, did tonight. This pre-fall presentation for women was dropped amidst a Fall '15 menswear collection. That mash-up was appropriate, because most of the looks, after a nip and a tuck, would be wearable on either gender. The point with Lynn, though, is that it's not your gender but your sensibility that defines your readiness to wear his clothes. And Lynn's type—exemplified by longtime client PJ Harvey, who lurked in his audience—is anything but mainstream.His men and women wore big, bobbed, brunette identi-wigs over slim black trenches and suiting that jiggled with fringing down each sleeve and had chains at the pockets. There were sheepskin vests and reversible jersey-knit tunics-cum-smocks. Models of both genders slipped in their Louboutin Beatle boots—someone forgot to hairspray the soles—but found sounder traction on color-touched elastic-tied sneakers. Green tailoring, blue sheepskin vests, scarlet shoes, and bikers with collars of more blue broke up the mono. "I love you more when you're angry because you're so boring when you're nice," bellowed Slaves. This was a purist's collection for the edgier RTW customer, and it danced to a certain music all of its own.
|
Luke Leitch
|
January 10, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c651d008298d8be2288705/master/w_1280,c_limit/Todd_Lynn_01_1366.jpg"
] |
pre-fall
|
2015
|
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] |
||
Todd Lynn
|
fall-2014-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2014-ready-to-wear/todd-lynn
|
Todd Lynn opted to hold his show at The Box, a small, cabaret-style Soho club bathed in red light that bills itself as a "Theatre of Varieties." The space does not allow for too many guests, nor did the designer get carried away with too many looks—a lean twenty-four, to be exact. It's one of those unofficial laws of nature that when you force yourself to reduce, every decision matters more. Lynn has always been seduced by clashing masculine and feminine, and the results played out sharply, with bra cups inserted into suiting and a tailored coat ringed from the hips in a wraparound of fluid pleating. He gushed over Berlin-based artist Jonas Burgert's focus on civilization's end time—which didn't necessarily offer much explanation for the removable, zippered funnel belts, but helped paint the picture of a fatalist femme fatale. Certainly, she could draw from a selection of killer coats, the best revealing a vent filled in with inverted pleats.To hear Lynn tell the story about how his studio sent Saga Furs a sample of white fox defiled by green highlighter is to realize that his spin on goth is birthed from ingenuity, not darkness. And the confidence he shows with specialty surface treatments—from slim liquid silver suiting and a billowy anthracite skirt paired over pants to papery leather treated with a resin—is precisely what will continue to attract music artists and directional shoppers to his label.Lynn continues to work with Christian Louboutin on footwear (and Gary Powell of the Libertines on music); with this latest cinched boot—consistent throughout the show, differing only in heel height—he should prepare himself for an expanded fan base next season. It's about time.
|
Amy Verner
|
February 13, 2014
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6513608298d8be21d9251/master/w_1280,c_limit/SCO_0752.1366x2048.JPG"
] |
fall
|
2014
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Todd Lynn
|
spring-2014-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2014-ready-to-wear/todd-lynn
|
Hang on—what happened over the summer? Did Todd Lynn enroll in a refresher course? Because what else could explain the sudden raising of his game after some seven years in the biz? To be fair, for the bulk of the past decade the Canadian-born, London-based designer has been busy outfitting the best of rock 'n' roll—including Fergie and Will.i.am of the Black Eyed Peas, Rihanna, and Ronnie Wood—for the stage. But since his show last February, he's added to his signature styling with the inclusion of more tailored, precise, and, well, fresh looks—a word not usually associated with rock.Of note were the elevated PJs in soft, stripey hues of green grass and creamy milk. Over the last couple of seasons, we've seen plenty of pajamas on the runway; what makes Lynn's special is how sharp they are—less dreamtime, more daywear. Backstage he said they were "based on the lining of men's suit tailoring, so kind of turned inside out—perfect for the work environment and, OK, less the stage."Cobweb-lace looks were also a key theme, not just in black but in that fresh grass green again. Shimmery dresses with clever draping and some astonishingly cut tuxedo suits with raw, deconstructed edges proved that Lynn has moved on, but not too far. A performance by the band Wolf Alice was a loud reminder of his design roots.
|
Afsun Qureshi
|
September 12, 2013
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6512008298d8be21bfb01/master/w_1280,c_limit/MARC0008.1366x2048.JPG"
] |
spring
|
2014
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Todd Lynn
|
fall-2013-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2013-ready-to-wear/todd-lynn
|
New York's Gopher Gang was the 1890s version of today's smash and grab hoodies: recidivists who steal clothes not to resell (the preferred method of today's crooks) but to retool to fit their bodies. A gang of thugs, yes, but at least a fashion-savvy one. They were a reference, alongside the antebellum era, for Todd Lynn's fashion week outing.Lynn's opening gambit was a dove gray suit that was true to both his inspirations. Any of the characters lounging around in the mansion of Leonardo DiCaprio's evil Calvin Candie inDjango Unchainedwould be perfect in it. The long, lean tailoring, darted in the back with sculptured shoulders, had Civil War stylings all over it. But the antebellum age quickly reverted to something else—blue and black stripe suiting from a collaboration with artist Marcus James that suddenly announced ragtag Dickensian/Carnaby Street. "That's what it's all about," said Lynn backstage. "The Gopher Gang stole clothes, cut and mixed them up, restitched them back together in a sort of helter-skelter kind of way—it is meant to look ransacked because it was."Even ransacked looked good with Lynn's signature tailoring. More precise engineering followed, including some very good trouser suits with touches of goat fur and his trademark buttery leather (Lynn will never stray too far from his rock 'n' roll roots). A black jersey dress that doubled as a T-shirt was perhaps inspired by his old boss and front-row guest Roland Mouret, whose "TTD" (tunic top dress look) created a triple-duty garment. Then there were the cobweb lace pieces with a hidden horse motif that were imminently wearable, minus, of course, the "septum rings" that looked as painful as they sounded. The show ended with looks in box pleats with paper-bag waists—they were zany yet well constructed, and they may well turn into the Marmite of fashion: Customers will either love them or hate them. Let the buyers decide.
|
Afsun Qureshi
|
February 15, 2013
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6510e08298d8be21ab432/master/w_1280,c_limit/_ARC0680.1366x2048.JPG"
] |
fall
|
2013
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Todd Lynn
|
spring-2013-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2013-ready-to-wear/todd-lynn
|
Todd Lynn in Africa? This is a combination that might seem decidedly odd at first, but when you know the other inspirations—Heart of Darkness,Apocalypse Now, and the artist Peter Beard—it begins to make more sense. The beauty and horror in Beard's work is an attraction for Lynn. The color washes that permeated his collection—decorative printed silks done in collaboration with the artist Marcus James—seemed a nod to the brushstrokes that often accompany Beard's photographs. Here, they made perfect sense as a beautiful motif.In contrast, the sculpted silhouette of a Todd Lynn safari suit—the opening look of the show and the first few variations—felt a little more unsettling. The safari suit is always a little difficult to pull off, with the opposing images of Yves Saint Laurent andDaktarifighting for space in the collective consciousness. Add to that a particularly severe take on tailoring, and it can all get a little too much. Saying that, Lynn's trouser-cutting technique—here, long and lithe with a flare—is something the designer is known for, and was particularly good this season.Yet sometimes it seems that Lynn is too in love with technique. In some of the other clothing, the school of tailoring that came to the fore in the late nineties seemed too stridently apparent. While it's clear that Lynn is capable of doing whatever he wants to with cloth, he doesn't always have to show it; it can work to his detriment. With some of these pieces, less would have been more.
|
Jo-Ann Furniss
|
September 14, 2012
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650f608298d8be21915c1/master/w_1280,c_limit/_VIE0012.1366x2048.JPG"
] |
spring
|
2013
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Todd Lynn
|
fall-2012-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2012-ready-to-wear/todd-lynn
|
Kitsch makes for an odd title for a Todd Lynn collection. Glancing at the show notes today, you had to wonder what Lynn—a disciplined craftsman who traffics in the emphatically clean—might have to do with, say, Hello Kitty key rings or "Hangin' in there!" cat posters. It was interesting to contemplate. Further study of the show notes revealed that this season the designer was taking inspiration from the wonderfully named Norwegian painter Odd Nerdrum, and by extension his Renaissance-referencing paintings and influential kitsch manifesto. Nerdrum's philosophy on kitsch is too dense to unpack here—Wikipedia it if you like—but it involves an affirmation of the forcefully individual self. That's a take that sits easily with Lynn's look.The Hello Kitty collection will have to wait for another season, in other words. Today's show was another Lynn exercise—and a particularly strong one—in forceful simplicity. Per usual, the key elements of the collection were strict suiting, architectural draping, and absurdly well-cut leathers; the suiting looked especially good, boasting terrific wide-leg trousers and pencil skirts paired with jackets that were circle-seamed or made with origami folds. The angled leathers were also a clear winner. Lynn's draped pieces were nice, but the only real standout was one burnt orange dress with a dramatic cape effect. His big new idea this season was to make garments faced in different materials, front and back; he made a lot of use of a raffialike jacquard in ocher for these pieces, and the material gave the look punch. It was good to see Lynn working with so much color here, and he used it well. There was also a nice additional texture in the collection's decayed lace, a fabric that made too few appearances on the runway today. On the whole, though, this was a top-notch collection for Lynn. The clothes didn't expand his brand's vocabulary too much, but they reaffirmed his acknowledged strengths.
|
Maya Singer
|
February 17, 2012
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650e308298d8be217d5d8/master/w_1280,c_limit/00010fullscreen.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2012
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Todd Lynn
|
spring-2012-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2012-ready-to-wear/todd-lynn
|
There's rarely much news at a Todd Lynn show. Today's outing was no exception, but the collection he presented was well executed and concise. This season, he continued to soften the look of his urban warrior clothes for men and women, in particular by integrating yards of draped and trailing fabrics into his looks and by turning out his clothes in weather-beaten stretch linen and silk. Lynn has also squared off the daggered shapes of his tailoring, which has helped to freshen up his silhouettes.In addition to the flowing fabrics, Lynn's key ideas this time around were to slice open his jackets and trousers at the hip, revealing layered materials or skin, and to punctuate looks with punkish rows of pins. (The pin jewelry was made in collaboration with Shaun Leane.) A top made almost entirely of pins is going to get a lot of action in fashion editorials; a cropped jacket in black, with pins latticed along the collarbone, will be catnip for the woman who's looking for a tasteful, even grown-up way to let her inner rock star shine. Ditto the pinned blazer for men in Lynn's washed blue linen.Those rainy blue silks and linens were the only hit of color at this show, which makes Lynn's collection an outlier in a season where bold palette is the big story. That said, he did engage with one of the other emerging Spring '12 themes, which is shine: Some of his strongest looks were sharply cut cotton bouclé pieces in silver. The short, knife-pleated silver skirt and hip-sliced, high-collared vest looked particularly good.
|
Maya Singer
|
September 18, 2011
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650cd08298d8be21661ad/master/w_1280,c_limit/00010fullscreen.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2012
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Todd Lynn
|
fall-2011-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2011-ready-to-wear/todd-lynn
|
Futuristic fashion collections take a dim view of the world to come. Designers tend to eschew giddy techno-optimism in favor of either aBlade Runner-esque vision, urban and Orwellian, or a post-apocalypticMad Maxtake on things. Todd Lynn's new collection, shown today, wasn't overtly futuristic, but it had thatMad Maxvibe. Lots of black leather and earthy neutrals, shot through with blood red; fabrics caped, stretched, and draped across the body; fur collars that swam up over the face, as though protecting against some species of flesh-eating radioactive bug.The future according to Lynn isn't all bad, though. For one thing, it's emphatically well tailored. The designer is a whiz with leather, and if you're still in the market for a pair of rock star skinny leather leggings or a sinuous leather jacket with daggered edges, this collection is the place to find 'em. Lynn also showed some long matte silk skirts, draped Haider Ackermann-style—if these didn't look new, they still looked timely—and several cool knits, including a nice asymmetric wool hand-knit for the boys, and a wool rib for women that hugged the body like neoprene. Good, wearable pieces, these. There were also a fair amount of dystopic-looking men's suits, some with leather sleeves, others with a caped front that definitely fell on the less wearable end of the spectrum. Lynn's most interesting idea had to do with his shoulders: When he wasn't softening them with curved construction, he obscured them completely, creating habitlike collars that folded down over the shoulder, then flared out again. It made for an attractive silhouette. The show's standout piece, however, may have been the heavy-duty, long leather gloves the designer sent out with a good number of his looks: They'll be just the thing when the day arrives for fighting off the zombie hordes. Or, more mundanely, they'll really come in handy next winter.
|
Maya Singer
|
February 20, 2011
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c651b208298d8be2267edd/master/w_1280,c_limit/00010fullscreen.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2011
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Todd Lynn
|
spring-2011-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2011-ready-to-wear/todd-lynn
|
If you think about it, all designers have a touch of Dr. Frankenstein in them, each season conjuring up an army of new women. Perhaps it's not a stretch, then, that creating new life was the thing that captured Todd Lynn's imagination for Spring. The designer named his collection Genesis Redux, describing the clothes as beautiful new creatures.These Lynn-iads took form in a mix of fabrics and textures: expensive Italian cotton, powdery matte snakeskin, linen, and leather, occasionally traced by almost scarlike gold zippers. A jacket in moss green silk with a front torso and shoulder panel in sage-hued python gave you the impression of metamorphosis, of something shedding its skin. And those hooflike platform booties certainly hinted at another species. (Though that new species could be Gaga sapiens.) If the idea was at times too subtle, a spiraling silver carapace—Lynn's second collaboration with jewelry talent Shaun Leane—strapped onto the side of a simple jersey top and skinny pants pushed it to a welcome extent.Backstage, Lynn talked about evolving his vision—an idea apparent in the slightly softer and more casual feel of his clean and lean urban-warrioress signatures. He didn't say it, but it would appear to be a commercial maneuver. Though here, the C-word remained unsullied with Lynn's luxurious and still-interesting clothes. Ultimately, the designer offered options for those who want a little edge or a lot. Take those high python collars that reached up the side of a model's neck: Most were separate pieces buckled on—a way to leave your avant-garde at home when you need to meet the parents or the loan officer.
|
Meenal Mistry
|
September 20, 2010
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6512808298d8be21c87c4/master/w_1280,c_limit/00010fullscreen.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2011
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Todd Lynn
|
fall-2010-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2010-ready-to-wear/todd-lynn
|
The inversions that climate change is causing in nature are grabbing attention in every other arena, so why should fashion be an exception? Todd Lynn's inspiration was twofold. The hunter captures and wears his prey, then the tables are turned: The hunter is captured and caged by the game. In other words: Nature finds a way to deal with man. It was an admirable and—in its own dark way—reassuring message, but it was somewhat obscured by Lynn's sinfully sumptuous materials. The hunter's prey was symbolized by fox furs from Saga, which the designer draped, shruglike, over a taupe leather jacket or a felted wool coat. The cages were a little easier to cope with. They were woven leather, exaggeratedly straddling the torso.You'll notice that, in both instances, the emphasis was on the shoulder. Lynn went for a pagoda silhouette in his more "low-key" pieces, like the wool jacket with linebacker leather inserts, or the gray jersey jacket that also featured built-out leather shoulders. The combination of cloth and skin was a step forward in a softening of Lynn's usual hyper-tailored aesthetic. Another significant advance with this collection was the overall use of leather, braided into strikingly dramatic outerwear. Climate change or not, Lynn continues to cover a narrow waterfront, but he's mastered a balance between provocation and desirability. And, although they were separated in today's front row by his old boss Roland Mouret, we have him to thank for London fashion week's oddest (semi-)couple: Janet Jackson and Soft Cell's Marc Almond. Imagine the sweet but strange music they'd make together.
|
Tim Blanks
|
February 20, 2010
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c651bb08298d8be226f0d5/master/w_1280,c_limit/00010fullscreen.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2010
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Toga
|
spring-2025-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/toga
|
There was a celebratory air to tonight’s Toga show in London, which was held in a gallery space at Somerset House—and marked Yasuko Furuta’s return to the runway after a four-year hiatus. While this break was initially prompted, unsurprisingly, by the pandemic, Furuta has used her seasonal collections in the years since as a springboard for a variety of more experimental creative projects, including a film by Johnny Dufort and an art photography series by Liv Liberg. These diversions may have suited Furuta nicely—her cerebral approach to design is informed by her close relationship with the Tokyo art world, so her forays into more inventive modes of presenting her clothes never feel like a gimmick—but there’s still nothing like a live show to get the blood pumping.Thankfully, Furuta’s return to the runway did just that. The tone was set with two opening looks: a pair of roomy trench coats with puff sleeves, worn over blouses with checkered handkerchief details at the neck, first on a female model and then a male. Furuta has always taken a somewhat genderless approach to her design, but her inquiries into masculinity, in particular, this season were prompted by watching Claire Denis’s 1999 masterpieceBeau Travail, which charts a tale of obsession between French soldiers stationed in Djibouti. (To wit, the show’s mellow soundtrack concluded with a seat-shaking blast of Corona’s “The Rhythm of the Night,” which accompaniesBeau Travail’s iconic final scene.)Other highlights included a series of high-waist dresses cut from shimmering metallic jacquards and a series of riffs on motorcycle jackets, cropped and asymmetric, in jet black and blazing red. Artfully draped dresses carried a satisfying swish, while the razor-sharp tailoring played with proportions, pairing linebacker shoulders with cinched waists. There was the charming addition of roses, bunnies, and butterflies as brooches to bring a touch of sweetness. And a special shout-out, too, for the killer shoes, which took the steel-toe caps of traditional workwear boots and expanded them into spearlike, hand-finished golden cones.Furuta opted for a salon-style show, with the intimacy meaning you could truly see the clothes (and also occasionally see yourself, thanks to the reflective gold panels on the floor). This is the kind of fashion that deserves to have every detail absorbed, after all: rigorously designed but playful, avant-garde but accessible, meticulously constructed but still unfussy. It’s great to have Furuta back on the runway.
|
Liam Hess
|
September 16, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/66e88eaeb753aeaf2297c02f/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-toga-spring-2025-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2025
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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|
Toga
|
fall-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-ready-to-wear/toga
|
This season, Yasuko Furuta gave it the razzle-dazzle—a quick skim through a rail of her clothes revealed some show-stopping sequins, frills, and shine. As is custom, though, the Toga designer’s commentary on her exuberant fall collection was short and sweet: she mentioned states of dress and undress, as well as the spirit of the 19th-century French Romanticists. (More specifically, Eugène Delacroix’s iconic painting, “Liberty Leading the People,” and the expressive strokes that allow its fabrics to fall off the body and flutter in the winds of revolutionary Paris.)But once folded into Furuta’s topsy-turvy world, her references were anything but a history lesson. Take the tailoring, which began with fin-de-siècle suiting as its starting point (note the charming oversized ribbon bow ties), and then tugged its proportions in every direction to create unexpected looks for today’s urban dweller: a sleek black blazer cinched at the waist with an asymmetric oversized belt; a pair of silk trousers featuring explosions of ruffles along the thigh; paneled coats with pillow-like padding at the hem for added swish.Typically, Furuta’s skills lie in her ability to apply just the right amount of restraint to her wilder flights of fancy, so it was fun to see her really swing for the fences this season. A brilliantly bonkers sky blue silk dress featured an enormous ruched cut-out at its center, playfully styled with a pair of black tailored trousers and an enormous black ribbon in the hair. Furuta’s wonky take on plaids saw them folded and stitched over into eye-popping patterns across an especially fabulous skirt. (And that’s without mentioning a kind of minimalist cowboy top made from sequins with fringing that swung from below the breasts.)It was a reminder of all the chatter about the possibility of a new “Roaring Twenties” for fashion a few years back: that bolder, brasher mode of dressing that flickered up post-pandemic, then seemed to fizzle just as quickly, now usurped by the more commercial approach we’ve seen over the past few seasons as the specter of recession looms. (Furuta’s designs may be luxurious, but quiet they’re certainly not.) But her secret sauce, really, is the heart behind the clothes. She also cited Patricia Highsmith’sThe Price of Salt, the tale of forbidden love memorably brought to life on screen by Cate Blanchett and Rooney Mara in Todd Haynes’sCarol, as an inspiration; more specifically, a sentence in which the protagonist muses on what makes a classic work of art, or film, or literature. It’s precisely that thoughtfulness and sensitivity that makes Furuta’s pieces modern classics of their own.
|
Liam Hess
|
February 28, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/65d7477ee63b2fc0fb585ea6/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-toga-fall-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Toga
|
spring-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/toga
|
Yasuko Furuta of Toga cuts an elusive figure, offering just three words via press release to define her collections each season. This time around, they wereassertive,feminine, andapproach. Taken as a whole, it’s hard not to feel like they could apply to any number of her outings from across Toga’s two-and-a-half-decades as a cult favorite brand: Furuta’s vision is defined by its balance of the sweet and the steely, and the underlying sense that her endlessly curious woman is always approaching the new.The “feminine” aspect was accounted for in the building blocks of the collection: boiled down to its most essential elements, it was made up of lace, shirred cotton, crochet, ribbon appliqués, and plenty of pink. But in Furuta’s hands, it was alchemically transformed into something a little more risky. Those lacy trims and bodices and fishnets clung or fell from the body in a way that whispered of the fetishistic, while the ruched sleeves and necklines had a wonky, offbeat charm that nodded to the creative spirit of the woman likely to wear them.The look book was shot by the Dutch photographer Liv Liberg, a partnership that began when she participated in an exhibition presented by Toga in Tokyo earlier this year, including images of Furuta’s clothes worn by Liberg’s sister and mother. While this time the pieces were shot on models, it serves as a neat reminder of Furuta’s ability to use fashion to turn the mirror back on the women that surround her: to reflect and refract their tastes, but also to nudge them in more adventurous sartorial directions. And despite the quietly intellectual charge of Furuta’s approach to design, there’s a reason she’s been in business for 26 years and counting: there were plenty of wildly desirable pieces in here, too. The button-downs with netted sleeves, or the chunky cotton tops with clouds of embellished black silk popping out from the shoulders? Expect them to fly off the shelves.
|
Liam Hess
|
September 28, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6512d29d983289cea2a8593e/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-toga-spring-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Toga
|
fall-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/toga
|
Yasuko Furuta’s latest offering evoked a feeling of comfort, but not in a conventional sense. Patches of faux fur and sheepskin seen on one of the coats looked inviting at first glance, yet a rigid leather belt made clear that it was a functional piece rather than a swaddling blanket.Similar contradictions were featured throughout. Another coat, a faux fur-trim style, was decorated with harsh glossy pebbledash on its front panels. A bonded leather bodice and an appliqué sweater were completely open at the back, secured with utility straps. Double-breasted coats with puffed “Victoriana” shoulders had exposed chest sections. Bulbous cropped puffers, items that typically provide cushioned comfort, fit like urgently inflated life jackets. Two parkas—in khaki and black—were perhaps the most traditional inclusions.The volume and many layers that Furuta added to her looks resulted in a medley of textures: the aforementioned faux fur and sheepskins, scrunched and scratched mirrored vinyl, bold intarsia leather seen as patterns on bags and magazine pockets, and crinkled crunchy nylon in the form of shirting, skirts, and gargantuan “labels” worn as dresses. The nylon in particular was intentionally treated to look as if it had been discarded and “retrieved from the trash.”Amidst the less wearable show pieces (the label dresses), there were practical moments. Giant-collared shirts and cardigans with built-in satin neck attachments can be tied as scarves, inviting the wearer to style them as they so wish, while a pajama-striped thin nylon shirt featured internal straps on the torso that can be pulled back to reveal what’s beneath, or buttoned closed.Furuta didn’t look to a specific reference, and instead conjured a three-word dictum to use as a starting point—a habit she repeats each season. “Reveal, inside, liberation” informed every aspect, but was best exemplified by the Toga logos that decorated outerwear, “revealed” from their usual hidden place inside a garment. The designer evolves at her own pace, to an overall positive effect.
|
Alice Cary
|
February 20, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/63f27701be9ae1de3666e7d5/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-toga-fall-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-jack-day.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Toga
|
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/toga
|
“Skin, underwear, spacious,” was designer Yasuko Furuta’s signature three-word dictum this season. Her mantras often raise more questions than they answer. You’d be forgiven for anticipating something unexpectedly racy from Furuta after reading it. But that wouldn’t be her style. Instead, the additional skin on show was a hint of a bicep seen through the slashed sleeves of a tailored jacket, or a halter-neck top cut from shirting fabric and twisted to reveal just a little bit more shoulder. The underwear details, meanwhile, came in the form of lace and cotton bustiers that peeked out from behind low-cut tops. Furuta’s interpretation of the ongoing skin-baring trend was about celebrating sensuality rather than anything overtly risqué.Furuta is deeply entrenched in the lively Tokyo art scene—and, indeed, far beyond the shores of her base in Japan, even if she hasn’t been able to travel to present her collections to the international press since the beginning of the pandemic. She has an impressive knack for taking the work of an artist you wouldn’t imagine as a natural bedfellow for her world of wardrobe staples with an acid-lace twist and seamlessly bringing them into the fold.This season, she looked to the work of Eiko Yamazawa, one of Japan’s earliest women photographers, who perfected the art of studio portraiture in the 1920s, before later absorbing the influence of Abstract Expressionism to create ravishing, painterly photographs featuring kaleidoscopes of color. It’s not hard to see why Furuta might have an affinity for Yamazawa, given her pioneering place as one of Japan’s leading women artists as well as her similarly globe-trotting eye, but their work dovetails seamlessly on an aesthetic level too.As always, Furuta’s reinterpretation of the spirit of an artist from decades past felt strikingly contemporary: A sheer, minimalist black skirt sat over a pair of high-waist hot pants in glittering jacquard; oversized crinoline skirts were cut from breezy white cotton that were decadent feeling and eminently wearable. Yamazawa’s artworks, meanwhile, cropped up as patches on richly patterned stretch tops and printed on T-shirts. In their most arresting moments they were blown up and splashed across swishy silk skirts and a dramatic, capelike black poncho. It was Furuta in her element: taking her endless fascination with art history and lending it a firmly of-the-moment twist.
|
Liam Hess
|
September 20, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6326e43e993b2add9768fee4/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-toga-spring-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Toga
|
fall-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/toga
|
When describing Yasuko Furuta’s work at Toga, it’s easy to end up speaking in contradictions. The clothes are somehow playful but studied, refined but witty, wildly eclectic yet firmly cohesive. “Hoops, bouncing, swinging,” came the typically gnomic quote from Furuta this season, placing an emphasis on fun and immediacy. The show notes mentioned Duke Ellington and Ella Fitzgerald’s “It Don’t Mean a Thing (If It Ain’t Got That Swing,)” which you could easily imagine the party-ready, swishy skirt trims of faux goat hair and sequins rustling to on a Saturday night.As always, though, it was Furuta’s imaginative hybridized garments that charmed most. There were plenty of delightfully Frankensteinian fusions at play here: the front fascia of a camel-colored blazer sliced at the sides, so that the sleeves of a thick wool knit emerged from underneath; or in something of a direct reverse, a slinky knit dress with the hems of a blazer peeping out underneath. A super-stretch polyester with lamé jacquard floral details came as a sculptural, voluminous mini dress, as well as in a clingier iteration that featured the same undulating drop skirts as before. The raw edges and cut-out sections carried a whisper of last season’s nod to the sculptor Gordon Matta-Clark with their interest in void spaces, albeit this time with less intellectualizing and a greater emphasis on wearability.While this season’s accompanying film, directed by the auteur fashion photographer Johnny Dufort, effectively conveyed the off-kilter spirit of Furuta’s distinctive design philosophy, her clothes really benefit from being seen in a showroom setting. Going through her pieces on the rack, the quality and heft of the clothes is seriously impressive, as are the wealth of playful details that reveal themselves the closer you look. More strongly than ever this season, there was a palpable feeling that these are clothes that a certain kind of woman—smart, spirited, and willing to experiment—really wants to wear. As Furuta celebrates her 25th year in business with Toga later this year, she only continues to go from strength to strength.
|
Liam Hess
|
February 21, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/62122f020b7e080d3b0d0e41/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Toga-Fall-22-RTW-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2022
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Toga
|
spring-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-ready-to-wear/toga
|
For Yasuko Furuta’s latest collection at Toga, the designer collaborated with the estate of Gordon Matta-Clark, the American artist who rose to fame in the 1970s for physically cutting through buildings to create eerie voids or splits down their center, a process he described asanarchitecture. Despite working many decades and continents apart, it’s not hard to see where the creative kinship between Clark and Furuta might lie. Just as the former’s interventions transformed unloved buildings into sites of aesthetic interest, so too has Furuta’s uncanny ability to fuse or break apart garments—and, in turn, create radical but alluring new forms—made her one of the Japanese fashion scene’s most intriguing voices over the past two decades.This season Furuta’s eclecticism came together to form a harmonious—and, often, surprisingly wearable—whole. Her experiments with tailoring were a highlight, featuring boxy blazers paired with wonky skirts sliced into 21st-century pteruges (perhaps a winking nod to her brand’s name, itself rooted in ancient dress) and sleeveless jackets cut from classic suiting wools, here embellished with patches of sparkling embroideries or decorated with ruched shoulder pads. These ruching details also appeared on a number of gorgeously slinky knit dresses, billowing out from the skirts for a touch of additional swish.Furuta’s experiments with texture were effective elsewhere too, whether the floral trench coat and skirt cut from an unusual stiff sheer fabric, the variety of glossy fabrics that coursed through the collection, an oversized lavender-hued silk blazer, or a vinyl jacket in an arresting rosso corsa. There’s always fun to be had with Furuta’s unlikely combinations of garments on the runway, but with the spirit of Matta-Clark underpinning the collection, there was a clear sense of intellectual cohesion that gave it real liftoff.
|
Liam Hess
|
September 23, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/61447cadea2e1a842c17c5f6/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-TOGA-Spring-2022-RTW-Credit-Brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2022
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Toga
|
fall-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/toga
|
Yasuko Furuta’s design philosophy is all about radical extremes: mashing up the deconstructed shapes of the Japanese designers she worked for in her early career, alongside riffs on classic Americana and nods to the savoir-faire of her education in Paris. Next year, she’ll be celebrating her 25th year in the business as Toga, having (deservedly) earned a loyal customer base for this relentless spirit of invention. And so, appropriately, this season her ever-shifting sartorial interests struck a lighter, gently celebratory note.In the show notes, Furuta’s mandate was humble: to “simplify, expand, flatten.” The opening look included a knit featuring a repeating floral print and leg-o’-mutton sleeves, with the oversized Peter Pan collar of a shirt underneath echoed in the undulating ripples of the skirt’s shape, carrying both the romance and eerie two-dimensionality of a flower pressed under glass. This delicate touch of craftsmanship ran through skirts cut from rhythmic, wavy pleats. Blazer inserts appeared to flutter and fan apart like the pages of a book. A highly-structured, printed coat had its compressed shoulders against a whitewashed wall in the look book, lending it the effect of a pinned butterfly.Some of Furuta’s most successful experiments in hybridization over the past few seasons have involved playful uses of padding and down. This time, they cropped up in the unlikely form of skirts, as well as hooded jackets that were peeled off the body at the wrists and neck with a timely eye for adaptability. And while the inclusion of paintings by celebrated Japanese artist Tomoo Gokita (a long-time friend of Furuta’s) carried an air of foreboding with their distorted monochromatic faces, the final series of looks in oranges and cornflower yellows—some featuring prints resembling kitschy ’60s wallpaper, others echoing the color palette in feathers and fur—were shot through with a distinct sense of optimism.Furuta excels at finding her own, dissonant harmony among the eclectic elements that make up her collections, one that can vary in success from season to season depending on which unpredictable direction she chooses to take. (Nobody can fault her for her relentless spirit of experimentalism.) This season, she hit the mark with notes of unexpectedly mischievous whimsy. By the time fall rolls around, we have a feeling that’s exactly what Furuta’s fans and followers will be looking for.
|
Liam Hess
|
March 5, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/603f91c006ea376e288c5431/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-TOGA-FAll-21.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2021
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Toga
|
spring-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2021-ready-to-wear/toga
|
Speedo, the originally Australian swimwear brand and inventor of the racerback and the world’s first non-woollen swimsuit, has co-created a splashy collaboration with Toga’s Yasuko Furuta that made its debut sprinkled amongst her mainline collection today. Chin-strapped swim caps, loose Bermudas, leggings, rompers, what looked like a swim-bustier, bags, and of course swimsuits were delivered in two colorways of an attractively mish-mashed print.Synchronized around the swim was a typically fractured and eclectic collection that Furuta said in her notes was informed by the notion of pulling apart to allow for rebalance: “The splitting redefines the status quo.” True to her promise there was plenty of splits, rips, cut-outs, and enlarged vents in garments that spanned a knit black dress with blue tape details, a pointily bodiced and corseted tricot top, golden glittery tops, a sort of overdress made of criss-crossed sections of satin, checked mashed-up tailoring, and cute cotton dresses with plastic zippers functioning as darting. A scattering of Furuta's abstract jewelry was integrated into most of the looks in this chaotically harmonious collection.
|
Luke Leitch
|
September 21, 2020
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5f676afcd2c9c86c8cf6f4e0/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-TOGA-SPRING-21-RTW.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2021
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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]
] |
|
Toga
|
fall-2020-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-ready-to-wear/toga
|
Yasuko Furuta said in her notes that she “considered the idea of protection in a time of whirling uncertainty,” and although these clothes were not a cure for the relentless concussion of global concern, they might make for a measure of insulation from it. Most notable here (particularly to Moncler) was the innovative use of down. The down footwear worn with matching material pants looked like spike-toed moon boots. A few closing full-down looks sometimes mixed pleating and feather-filled panels, sometimes featured fully unzippable arms to allow conversion into a blanket, and sometimes came spray-painted for extra post-apocalyptic just-woke-up-under-a-bridge-dressed-like-this vibe. This was on purpose: Furuta said the garments were designed to “let you sleep anywhere.” Especially cute were the mid-height block-heeled sandals that featured down-paneled strapping above shivering auras of marabou.Elsewhere, layered full-look knits included integrated hoods, and outerwear came with an extra contrasting layer on the right side—a vivid synthetic green against a beige gabardine trench, an emergency hazmat scarlet against a soothing navy. When the down shoes withdrew, it was to be replaced by a pair of cap-toe oxfords underneath a fine double-breasted coat in some synthetic ivory fur. Another faux fur came with military-style integrated strapping that allowed you to sling it over your shoulder in case a high temperature made its wearing unwise. This Toga collection was the usual bemusing dazzle of deconstruction, a play of texture against shine articulated through the playful imagination of its designer. Soothing it wasn’t but distracting it was.
|
Luke Leitch
|
February 15, 2020
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e47fe9ae00284000832daac/master/w_1280,c_limit/_ALE0705.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2020
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Tokyo James
|
spring-2025-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/tokyo-james
|
The Leaning Tower of Pisa featured on Iniye Tokyo James’s invitation for today’s show, which was apt. “The collection’s called Imperfection,” he said backstage. “Life is not perfect. So why should clothes be perfect? It touches on the ups and downs we all go through every day.”This twist, once known, placed the onlooker in a fun predicament. James said he’d inserted multiple imperfections in his garments and presentation more broadly: So would we spot them? The sunburn makeup was a straightforward starter. The beaded skirt with two skew-whiff beads and the haphazardly stitched seaming on denim, leather, and jersey were so wrong they were clearly right. Uneven hems were purposefully imperfect gems. But what about the right shoe in Look 7: Was its refusal to stay securely afoot an accident designed or spontaneous? And were the minidresses cut so high at the back really meant to show quite so much cheek?Consistent with his imperfect theme was the fact that 90% of the materials in this collection were, James said, upcycled deadstock from sources in Benin, Nigeria, the UK, and Italy. An unlined black blazer and shorts that transitioned halfway down their lengths into thickly intertwined woven strips had to be prototyped four times, James added, before they were perfected in the factory. The belt they were worn with was decidedly wrong.
|
Luke Leitch
|
September 19, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/66ec4e9882408d08b1cf585b/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-tokyo-james-spring-2025-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2025
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Tokyo James
|
fall-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-ready-to-wear/tokyo-james
|
The aim of the fall 2024 collection presented by Tokyo James during Milan Fashion Week was to reshape the narrative of what people may expect to see from a designer of African heritage, based on superficial preconceptions. Instead, James wanted to propose his own story, trying to go back to his roots, to more simple and clean lines, from which he moved a little too far during previous seasons, as he said backstage. Tailoring and its manipulation became central to this collection, and the choice of showcasing in Milan was mainly related to the analogy between the strictness of the Milanese aesthetic and the simplicity of the silhouettes James wanted to explore.His African roots, seen through the globalized approach of a designer divided between London—where he was born and raised—and Lagos, were present thanks to intricate weaving, patiently hand-realized. That was used to create contrasting panels applied on the back of denim or leather trousers, or as the main material for classy monochromatic (and mono-fabric) looks, like a whole-denim ensemble. In this way, the garments could feel alive on the wearer, mainly thanks to the multifaceted textures, through which the reinterpretation of tailoring was a continuous process. There were also bouclé suits, blousons, and vests, as well as the richly decorated proposals: Denim pants, fully beaded in the front, and sumptuous gowns with low waists and delicate embroidery certainly stood out.The designer’s desire to showcase the many talents of African creatives also led him to collaborate with Nigeria-born artist Yusuff Aina, who unveiled a piece calledDomain Expansion,recalling the theme of James’s collection: the expansion that challenges prevailing stereotypes for Global South artists. That work of art was used as the epicenter around which the collection was presented.
|
Alberto Calabrese
|
February 24, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/65d9ff032929e7de7574002d/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-tokyo-james-fall-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Tokyo James
|
spring-2024-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-menswear/tokyo-james
|
“This season, the Tokyo James man is not listening to the noise,” declared designer Tokyo James as he called from his home country of Nigeria. “I want to emphasize that not every collection is the same, and that’s intentional,” he continued, “I like to do something different every season.”Not unlike the man he had in mind while designing this spring 2024 lineup, James marches to the beat of his own drum. “I find it boring that you can predict what a brand will give you every season, I want you to be pleasantly surprised with every collection,” he explained. It’s true that James’s collections often read like different books rather than chapters within the same tome, but he makes an interesting case here. These days, consistency for the sake of strong branding means designers often make change within the boundaries of a defined, and often constrictive, aesthetic. What James is doing is applying specific design elements—zippers, shirring, texture—to build an expansive brand profile. Whether this approach will work in the long run remains to be seen, but it’s a worthwhile experiment.This time around, James split his men’s and women’s collections in favor of further compartmentalizing his storytelling. “We’ve always been a menswear brand and we dabbled into womenswear,” he said. “We’re going back to our roots and concentrating on what we are known for more.” This is not to say that he’s doing away with his women’s line altogether. James will showcase womenswear in September, he’s just giving both lines room to grow as he hones his point of view. “We understand our man, and we’re still understanding the woman,” he added.This did not mean a tighter edit for men’s. James used a variety of fabrications including pineapple leather, crepes, jerseys (bonded for stiffness and paneled into tops and pants with exposed serging), and, most distinctly, custom lace. “I think guys are being more experimental,” he said, hence the laces. What struck a chord was the nonchalant tailoring cut in colorful and quirky laces and the playful modular skirts, which connect to trousers via separating zippers. His collections may read as different books, but James manages to make clear that they’re by the same author.
|
José Criales-Unzueta
|
July 14, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/649c22afe1122c2ab0dcba35/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-tokyo-james-spring-2024-menswear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2024
|
menswear
|
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] |
|
Tokyo James
|
fall-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/tokyo-james
|
By the time we got backstage for this 6pm scheduled show around 6:30, Iniye Tokyo James was 100 per cent ready to go. This collection, he explained, was called Code Switch: “It’s about how we as people wear different identities to deal with different things in society. The zips, following from last season, are about how sometimes we stay mute about certain things—zip it!—and sometimes we don’t have to, and we speak up.”Leading us down his lineup, it quickly became apparent that James has entered a phase of rapid development: while his vegan leather biker core remained evident, there was innovation aplenty and much more fabric than before. Highlights included the color-mix pieces developed by his sister, Esther; coats with semi-freed upcycled rib collars that could be left loose or tied as a scarf; and triple-indigo looks fashioned from deadstock sourced in Lagos denim depositories. The upcycled patched shearling jackets—some mixed with vegan leather—and a long coat that blended crepe and boucle and was symbolically scarred by those multi-puller zippers, was another winner. James also upcycled many of the models, roping in willing friends from multiple nations to walk for him, and then coating their teeth in lipstick to interesting and unsettling effect.There was also a new foray into knitwear, South Africa made, via a two tone sweater featuring a Gothic font, lowercase TJ logo. Roomy suiting and a boxing cape displayed different Lagos locales—Ikoyi, Agege, Oshodi, Lagos Mainland—in a Lonsdale font. The collection was shod by a collaboration with Dr. Martens that saw James and his team mix white paint with soil and dust from outside their workspace and coat the uppers to create a satisfying level of distress. “I don’t like anything brand new,” said the designer. There was a new but upcycled pouched version of his Ata Rodo bag. We left backstage around 6:38.James was for sure played a hospital pass by being placed on the busiest day of Milan’s schedule: it would be great, dear Camera Della Moda, if he could be given a more amenable slot next time. However he was also done no favors at all by those running the door: it had not opened by 6:15 and by 6:40 they were still tortuously and amateurishly counting people into a half-empty showspace one by one. Come on, guys. Regretfully, at 6:45, having had the privilege of going backstage for our pre-see, we had to leave before the show had begun—but way after it should have.
|
Luke Leitch
|
February 25, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/63fa6db91ea05d5c5ec666ae/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-tokyo-james-fall-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Tokyo James
|
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/tokyo-james
|
“I’d like to get to the point, when I’m asked about my inspiration for a collection, to feel confident in answering simply: ‘I’m driven to create clothes that people really want to wear.’” So said Iniye Tokyo James before this evening’s show of pieces you could see a fair few peoplereallywanting to put on.When rationalizing this question the first time around, a few minutes before, James had gone into a perfectly decent spiel about wanting to unify apparently opposing ideologies in clothing through harmonious collision. Given Italy’s critical imminent election, something very few designers have referred to, this was a timely position to adopt.Either of his rationales worked when you considered the refreshingly indie-spirited, goth-tinged, rock-flavored, and sex-scented collection James put out tonight. Predominantly black, with accents of green Lurex and blue broderie anglaise that was ruptured on outerwear to reveal layers of black Lurex beneath, it was tight and focused. Belts wrapped around wearers of either gender at nipple height; slouchy black bags whose grips were fashioned from vicious little whips, something cultish about them, tightened the focus further.James sprayed denim with layer after layer of black paint, graffiti style, to give his raw-edge pieces a leatherish shine. Bikers, skirts, and corsets built into tulle paneled dresses were more authentically skin-toned. In some of the ruched, off-kilter tailoring there were echoes of Vivienne Westwood’s drunken finest. Studs, grommets, and jewelry created with London start-up UWR provided fierce flashes of light. This 2022 LVMH finalist brand is a plucky and punchy label to follow, for those who prefer not to be led.
|
Luke Leitch
|
September 24, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/632f61346dc0fc60245ff3a9/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-tokyo-james-spring-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Tokyo James
|
fall-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/tokyo-james
|
“At least we don’t look like what we’ve been through!” says Tokyo James backstage at his first runway show in almost two years. The Nigerian designer is back in Milan with the support of the Camera Della Moda, bringing his slinky and scrunchy menswear with him. The idea of telegraphing beauty after a time of strain is one that resonates with James; even in the darkest hours he has the personality type to always find joy. His fall 2022 collection was a firm rebuke of sorrow, with neon oranges, yellows, and lime greens to uplift.James’s strongest garments are his tailored ones. He has established his signature shape, scrunched up in the back to mirror his popular Scotch Bonnet bags. The detail works best on his most classically structured suits, this season rendered in nubbly mohair. One, silk with mohair insets, was particularly gorgeous. Ditto for an azure coat with an embroidered frog detail. A partnership with Nike—“football is what unites us all, Nigeria, Italy, England” he said —birthed upcycled jackets and bags made from Nike sneakers and soccer cleats on the feet of most models. The upcycling continued into recycled denim separates and coats, materials pulled from Nigeria’s many deadstock markets. Worn by models with punky, gelled up hair and cartoonish sunglasses, the message for James’s men was a rebellious uniformity.As for his women, well, they are certainly sexy. James’s ability to create new structures isn’t translating as well to his womenswear right now, where backs felt skimpily low and cropped tops slightly too cropped. But maybe that’s an old school mindset. When a model came out in a low-cut black and white net dress the audience practically rose to its feet in cheers. That’s the magic only a runway show can bring—and thankfully James is back on the catwalk and here to stay.
|
Steff Yotka
|
February 26, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/621a8b9837c1650694d52691/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-tokyo-james-fall-2022-ready-to-wear-milan-credit-paolo-lanzi-gorunway.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2022
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Tokyo James
|
spring-2022-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-menswear/tokyo-james
|
The cellular signal inside Iniye Tokyo James’s Lagos atelier isn’t so great, so he has to take his Ata Rodo bags and button-up shirts outside for a better connection. Even with the occasional moments of glitching, the conversation is one of the best of virtual Fashion Week. Rarely do I see the actual space clothing is designed in; it’s rarer still to meet the people who make it. As James stands on his porch, his colleagues act as de facto models, trying on a wrap skirt with leather trouser panels and an inset leather blazer. It’s a human moment amidst the fashionable façades our very phygital Fashion Week provides.James’s warmth and heart translate to his garments. This season he started thinking about the Osu caste system used by the Igbo people of eastern Nigeria. Osu—or outcasts—are shunned by society and looked down on; James saw them as representative of outcasts around the world. A collection that wafts through ideas of lightness and porousness was his solution; something gentler and kinder. He made use of beautiful white and pink/red lace for collar shirts, blazers, and trousers and created similarly perforated white jackets from cord. Underneath, there are James’s first boxer shorts with a bold logo tag; there is also a cheeky graphic tee that reads “Tokyo Fucking James.” It’s delivered as a saucy message of self-preservation.Suiting remains the core of James’s offering, and he has loosened up its form with his signature slash vents, ruched fronts, and a new suit-skirt inspired by traditional African wraps. The ease of his garments—friendly to a wide range of bodies—has made his menswear a favorite of female shoppers too. To prove their versatility, James cast a couple of women in the lookbook to wear cinched up skirts and a sequined and black pearl-beaded blazer that took his atelier four months to make. That piece is his most expensive of the season, but for a lower price point, shoppers of all strokes at Dover Street Market—where he was recently picked up and given a primo fourth floor placement—will gravitate towards tees inset with cord and lace. It might be a collection inspired by outcasts, but there’s something for us all within James’s world.
|
Steff Yotka
|
June 20, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/60cc9d652c2cdf53cf0e70c2/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Tokyo-James-Menswear-Spring-2022-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2022
|
menswear
|
[
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] |
|
Tokyo James
|
fall-2021-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-menswear/tokyo-james
|
Iniye Tokyo James is streaming from his studio in Lagos, Nigeria, where rows of sewing machines have paused and assistants are organizing rails of his fall 2021 menswear collection. With weavers, tailors, and patternmakers all working under his roof, James has the advantage of localized production—meaning the pandemic didn’t halt his ability to create. Instead, he has grown his collection to include more custom knits and woven materials, as well as expanded his accessories range with bags and groovy hats that evoke a Scotch bonnet pepper. In Yoruba, the Scotch bonnet goes by the nameata rodo—and James says he used it because it’s a staple of local diets that permeates global cuisine.His clothing is both local and global too. A dual British-Nigerian citizen, James fuses the dapper traditions of mid-century British tailoring with Nigerian weaving and exuberance. The woven raffia featured on a number of tan suits, he explains, is a nod to the prayer mats that are popular in most Lagos homes, while the combination knit and faux-leather pieces in psychedelic shades of blue, violet, and orange represent a new kind of masculinity he wants to promote: tough, but also soft.He called the collection Ogidi Okunrin—“the strong man”—to drive home the idea that masculinity doesn’t need to be all hard edges and muted colors. His studio worked to create a knit that feels as sturdy as leather for tailoring, while simultaneously creating a faux leather buttery enough to be made into slim trousers and a modern cutaway vest. Black and brown suits are spliced, as in the opening looks, and inserted with silver chains used to evoke fringe. The results are unquestionably elegant, the sort of garment men worldwide would line up to wear—and women too. With roomy-cut suits, second-skin lace-up tops, and a finale of sequin shirts and trousers, James shouldn’t be surprised if he starts getting orders from female customers who want in on his vision.
|
Steff Yotka
|
January 20, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/60085783367425c0ac61b3c7/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-TOKYO-JAMES-MENSWEAR-FALL-21.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2021
|
menswear
|
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] |
|
Tolu Coker
|
spring-2025-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/tolu-coker
|
At the tail end of one of the busier days of London Fashion Week, walking into Tolu Coker’s show this evening felt like being welcomed home. Walls papered with poppy ’70s graphics were hung with photographs of proud Black women, posing in puff-sleeved dresses and sculptural head wraps, or caught candidly dancing in fine knit vests worn over poplin shorts and pleated plaid skirts. Rather than your typical humdrum chairs, the runway was lined with mid-century furniture and home decorations that gave the room the feeling of a large-scale Michael McMillan installation—teak sofas with deep pile marigold cushions; a fully laid dinner table, decked with bowls laden with tropical fruit; bookcases with shelves lined with hand-carved ebony busts.The intention, the designer explained post-show, was on one level an homage to Olapeju Coker, her dear mother (tributes to mothers being something of a trend this season, following on from Chet Lo on Friday). “In Yoruba, her name meanswealth gathers,” Coker explained. “I really wanted to tap into our culture and how names can carry such significant meaning.” The collection was also an exploration of the significance of living room spaces in the collective psyches of London’s myriad immigrant communities. “I was really looking back at the emotions and feelings I felt growing up in my childhood home, but also in the pictures of living rooms that I would see in my late father, Kayode Coker’s, archives,” the designer said. “They were from the late ’60s and early ’70s, but I felt that sensitivity as a child, and it led me to look deeper into stories of immigration and how the living room has been this sort of gathering space, especially for working-class people. It’s looking at the wealth that exists within these communities.”These notions were poignantly fleshed out in the collection that filed down the runway, a joyfully nostalgic, though still contemporary offering sported by models in sculptural beehives and flippy hairspray-held dos. Tailoring served as a pillar, with elegant leather Harringtons and sporty oversized denim separates showcasing some impressive cutting skills—the jackets of the latter looks were particularly striking, featuring corsetry detailing at the waist and lace-up back, plus intricate, in-built bust constructions. Elsewhere, swinging 1960s flair was channeled with gusto by halterneck waistcoats paired with pleated ra-ra skirts, cropped vests, micro-skirts, A-line dresses and even an umbrella printed with warm, lysergic swirls.
|
Mahoro Seward
|
September 15, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/66e74d5deb7fdcb6ee5b429d/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-tolu-coker-spring-2025-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2025
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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|
Tolu Coker
|
fall-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-ready-to-wear/tolu-coker
|
With her exuberant sense of top-to-toe polish—high hats, immaculate hair-styling, sharp tailoring, spike-heel Ugg boots—Tolu Coker convened an exciting show at London Fashion week. She set up her stall (an actual market stall at the end of the runway) in celebration of the women road-side hawkers of Accra, Ghana, who she’d seen on holiday recently, and those of West Africa in general. That female power, combined with her spiffy rendition of Church-going, “Sunday Best”-smart leather jackets, pleated skirts, and corseted shirt-dresses swept and enthralled along with her.Talented young Black designers from in and around communities in London are frequently interconnected with the Caribbean—Martine Rose, Grace Wales Bonner, Saul Nash, Bianca Saunders and Nicholas Daley, amongst others. Coker adds her own perspective as a British-Nigerian Londoner, a multi-disciplinary artist, designer, and live-wire brought up in North Kensington. At home, her mom passed on stories about how she’d taken part in the street-hawking culture in Lagos. In her show-notes, Coker describes how her parents would save their “aged” clothes to send to relatives in Africa, where the garments would enter the recycling chain.That memory lies behind her retrieval of late ’60s and ’70s styles, and how she embedded them with West African influences; such as her tailored waistcoats and trousers with volume “akin to Sokoto trousers worn by Yoruba men,” and the side-slits in her long pleated skirts, which nodded to “the breathable nature of conservative kaftans.” In more than a nod to material continuity, Coker noted that she’d also styled pieces from some of her past collections into the show. “Sustainability isn’t one-dimensional. I love to look at clothes that are in the category of ‘waste’ and breathe new life into them,” she stated. “It crosses over with the culture of hawking and recycling.” Her narrative contributes yet more to the profusion of different Black British identities which are strengthening London fashion in the 2020s—she’s telling her with equal parts cogency and joy.
|
Sarah Mower
|
February 26, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/65cfdabf95fb438999d33021/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-tolu-coker-fall-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Tom Van Der Borght
|
berlin-fall-2021
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/berlin-fall-2021/tom-van-der-borght
|
Tom Van Der Borght says his creations are only finished when he cannot add anything more. The looks in the Belgian designer’s opening show of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Berlin did this idea justice: Elaborate psychedelic outfits including head pieces and garments made with macramé and plastic strips, brightly colored overalls, and glittered faces told the story of a hopeful, more inclusive idea of fashion.The collection is part of a bigger artistic vision called “7 ways to be TVDB” in which the designer investigates the idea of non-normativity. As a queer person with a disability, he shares his experiences not only through neon-pink embroideries or a sparkling silver sequin suit, but also hyper-personal items like pins or prints imprinted with his face.For the show, Tom Van Der Borght collaborated with Blanca Li, a Spanish dancer and choreographer he’s admired for a long time. Last year, they connected at the International Festival of Hyères where he won the top prize and the audience award for his collection.Li based the show’s choreography around Van Der Borght’s sketchbook, turning it into a performance piece. Among others, a horse-masked troupe in underpants marching down the catwalk alluded to his goal of making sure that everything he does goes one step further than a typical fashion brand. He seems to be succeeding.
|
Saskia Ibrom
|
January 19, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/60072c46d4aceecb20a5d08b/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-TOM-VAN-DER-BORGHT-BERLIN-FALL-21.jpg"
] |
berlin
|
fall
|
2021
|
[
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] |
|
Tomas Maier
|
spring-2019-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-menswear/tomas-maier
|
Tomas Maier has taken a turn for the trendy. There are slogan tees and fanny packs in his new lineup—a real surprise from Maier, who has long belonged to the school of thought that subtlety is king both at Bottega Veneta and at his namesake label. He said he took his inspiration this season from New York’s early hip-hop scene and the Spike Lee movieShe’s Gotta Have It. Those references gave him the blouson-y shape of a reversible color-blocked windbreaker, the oversize proportions of chunky ribbed sweaters, bucket hats, and the cassette tape graphic that decorated many pieces, including the fanny packs. That last retro detail could attract a new customer base, which is most likely its raison d’être. Cassette tapes are to millennials as eight tracks were to Generation Xers, anachronisms so unlikely they seem novel.The clients who’ve appreciated Maier’s sense of subtlety all along will find the colorful tracksuits, specialty denim, and casual-luxe knits that the designer so reliably delivers. If they do sample from the more unexpected parts of this collection, it’s a good bet that it’ll be the scribbled face intarsias and prints. They jibe better with Maier’s own well-known obsession with art. More likely, though, they’ll be drawn to pieces like the understated, but quite clever, tailored washed wool pants with the pull-on waist. They look like trousers yet feel like sweatpants. Sounds like something his loyalists would buy in multiple.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
June 17, 2018
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5b23eef64c6bbc393b0c8f95/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-tomas-maier-vogue-mens-spring-2019-pr.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2019
|
menswear
|
[
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] |
|
Tomas Maier
|
resort-2019
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2019/tomas-maier
|
Tomas Maier has taken a turn for the trendy. There are slogan tees and fanny packs in his new lineup—a real surprise from Maier, who has long belonged to the school of thought that subtlety is king both at Bottega Veneta and at his namesake label. He said he took his inspiration this season from New York’s early hip-hop scene and the Spike Lee movieShe’s Gotta Have It. Those references gave him the blouson-y shape of a reversible color-blocked windbreaker, the oversize proportions of chunky ribbed sweaters, bucket hats, and the cassette tape graphic that decorated many pieces, including the fanny packs. That last retro detail could attract a new customer base, which is most likely its raison d’être. Cassette tapes are to millennials as eight tracks were to Generation Xers, anachronisms so unlikely they seem novel.The clients who’ve appreciated Maier’s sense of subtlety all along will find the colorful tracksuits, specialty denim, and casual-luxe knits that the designer so reliably delivers. If they do sample from the more unexpected parts of this collection, it’s a good bet that it’ll be the scribbled face intarsias and prints. They jibe better with Maier’s own well-known obsession with art. More likely, though, they’ll be drawn to pieces like the understated, but quite clever, tailored washed wool pants with the pull-on waist. They look like trousers yet feel like sweatpants. Sounds like something his loyalists would buy in multiple.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
May 11, 2018
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5af60091594dbc0ac1398908/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-tomas-maier-resort-19.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2019
|
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] |
||
Tomas Maier
|
fall-2018-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-menswear/tomas-maier
|
Tomas Maier couldn’t be present in his showroom today while his Fall collection was being displayed, so he kindly sent an email with a few quotes. It seemed proof of his German polite precision, a quality that feels ingrained in many aspects of his cultivated oeuvre. As the saying goes, the leopard cannot change its spots.Maier launched his eponymous line in 1997 from Miami, a sunny place that he clearly adores, where he opened a concept store around the same time as Colette in Paris. The quality of his meticulous editing has stayed consistent throughout the 20 years of his career, and has never been celebrated with pomp or fanfare, but almost swept under the carpet. Discretion over loudness is Maier’s mantra—not a behavior shared by many other designers.“As always, the idea of casual and ease and a notion of escape set the tone for the collection,” he wrote via email. These concepts always feature prominently in his vision, as if to counterbalance his demanding, rigorous work ethic. Maier’s quality standards are extremely high; the wordcasualdoesn’t actually seem to apply to his style, even if it’s used to describe the simplest bathing suit to wear on a beach in Florida. Eventually, simplicity is just the distilled expression of ultimate sophistication, is it not?Even Maier’s notion of ease has a disciplined feel to it. In his Fall collection, where shapes and fit were soft and relaxed, designed for enjoying outdoor activities and free time, there was a sense of elegance and calm composure. Luxurious understatement reigns supreme chez Tomas Maier.Simple lines and streamlined silhouettes defined a lineup in which leisure pieces were given the luxe treatment via made-in-Italy fabrics. Soft velvet corduroys, felted and washed wools, peach cotton canvas, and wool fleece flannels were supple, giving a feel of softness to sport-inspired, functional pieces. A group of checkered shirts, slightly padded peacoats, Bermudas, and blousons, freely combined with a mismatched effect, looked cleverly versatile. Noteworthy and molto Maier were the drawstring corduroy pants, cut straight and comfortable in vibrant shades of emerald and lemon, worn with light nylon jackets and bombers in a warm palette of nutmeg or tobacco. Although designed as a believable wardrobe of transitional, easily mixed, no-nonsense pieces, the collection had Maier’s distinctive imprimatur of elegant, slightly blasé ease. Function follows form—and not the other way around.
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
January 13, 2018
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5a58ff78c0a5182f583557bb/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-Tomas-Maier-Fall-18-Mens.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2018
|
menswear
|
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] |
|
Tomas Maier
|
spring-2018-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-to-wear/tomas-maier
|
Hydrogen bombs, Harvey, Irma. The world feels like it’s spinning out of control with sustained winds of 145 mph. How’s a designer supposed to react? Tomas Maier is choosing optimism. His new collection for Spring is awash with color, print, and airy shapes. As usual—and in contrast to his elevated work at Bottega Veneta—the focus here is on easy-to-wear clothes. The lookbook opens and closes with tracksuits, you’ll notice. But if these pieces are designed for ease, they’re not without their considered details. Metal eyelets, for example, run down the outside of black cotton pant legs. When we said airy, we really meant it.Even more compelling are the pieces that Maier calls “transformers.” Black sweaters come with buttons and interior straps you can manipulate to wear different ways (on the shoulder or off, loose or fitted through the waist). Having experimented with knits like this before, he’s expanding the concept to dresses and outerwear, and the dresses—in solid cotton poplin or graphic block prints with woven nylon straps circling the midriff and accenting the shoulders—are the stars of this collection. Maier has a collaboration with Puma launching this week. He’s redesigned the 1968 Roma in a debossed leather and went to the trouble of finding the precise color of rubber used for the nearly 50-year-old original. As we said, well considered.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 7, 2017
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/59b178553dc3db5d70fc26ef/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-tomas-maier-nyfw-ss18.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2018
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Tomas Maier
|
fall-2017-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/tomas-maier
|
Comfort and ease are Tomas Maier’s calling card—have been since he relaunched this label and started opening stores a few years ago. But he doubled down for Fall, and that goes for this season’s day clothes, as well as his after-dark offering. Knits of all kinds were the story here. Baby cashmere dresses had a loose day-off silhouette on the hanger, but smartened right up cinched with leather belts in the lookbook. Knitted red sweatpants with ribbed cuffs worn unzipped over stacked-heel boots and a matching knit sweatshirt evoked the “I fly private” vibe of celebrities and supermodels in airport paparazzi shots. Maier accessorized the sweatsuit with a generous turtleneck/wrap stole hybrid that chicly stood in for a coat or jacket. Even his suiting comes in felted gray jersey this season, meaning that a tailored double-breasted jacket and pleated trousers will feel as good on as a favorite cardigan and pj’s.That said, Maier fully comprehends the pleasure women find in dressing up. For those occasions, he’s proposing flirty dresses in a subtle, resolutely un-saccharine tone-on-tone heart print, and complementary enamel heart jewelry. The blue velvet jumpsuit in the heart motif was particularly winning. A trio of long black viscose jersey dresses in T-shirt, caftan, and slip silhouettes promise to travel well; “they weigh nothing,” the designer said. More room in your carry-on for platform sandals featuring a laser-cut Art Deco motif lifted from the landmark Fuller Building that houses Maier’s office.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 3, 2017
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5893e0d3153ededd21da63be/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-tomas-maier-rtw-2017.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2017
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Tomas Maier
|
pre-fall-2017
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2017/tomas-maier
|
HousedressandTomas Maieraren’t words I thought I’d ever string together, but what can I do? The designer used the humble housedress as a starting point for his brand’s Pre-Fall collection. Admittedly, you’ll have to look hard to find them, but there are a couple in the mix: simple A-line dresses in washed cotton poplin. In the end, more than the silhouette, it was the notion of the housedress that informed the collection. Maier has his Bottega Veneta gig; the point of his TM clothes is that they’re no-brainers: uncomplicated, unfussy, and reasonably well priced while remaining elegant.The navy viscose satin dresses he opened with surely fit that bill. Their appeal is obvious, right there at the surface in the case of the version with the velvet leaf embroidery. Other pieces will require a trip to the fitting room and a helpful salesperson to understand their value. A washed-silk dress comes with a built-in drawstring across the inside of the shoulders; wear it behind the shoulders or in front for two different neckline shapes. (He also applied the concept to a shirt.) A trio of garment-dyed cardigans had their own unique versatility feature: partial zips at the front of the armholes that allow you to wear them long-sleeved or short. Most of us have too much stuff. It’s nice to see a designer like Maier addressing that surfeit with truly new ideas.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
December 2, 2016
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5841aa66323297fe670d8f24/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-tm-pf-2017.jpg"
] |
pre-fall
|
2017
|
[
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]
] |
||
Tomas Maier
|
spring-2017-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/tomas-maier
|
Coastalandcampusare two key words to understandingTomas Maier’s new Spring collection. The seaside and school-days vibes weren’t overworked, but they did up the ease and sport factors in a lineup that is targeted at urbane, metropolitan types. Well, even power brokers need their downtime. Next season, they can dress for it in a color-blocked sports jersey featuring a printed and flocked floral motif on the chest that evoked both Hawaii and street graffiti, and matching jersey bottoms that hybridized track pants and dress trousers. Maier, who is celebrating his 15th anniversary at Bottega Veneta in Milan later this month, is a keen observer of detail, and he incorporated authentic ones into outerwear inspired by a sailor’s slicker. Taped seams mean his white waxed-cotton cape is truly seaworthy, even if it’s more likely to hit the New York streets than the Atlantic.Themes aside, the most desirable pieces were Maier’s dresses. A pair of white cotton poplin styles hand-painted along the edges looked breezily terrific. Even better was a trio of meadow flower–printed silk tea dresses that he showed with flat slides.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 8, 2016
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/57d19f55ae911de23b9d3522/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-tomas-maier-spring-2017-rtw.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2017
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Tomas Maier
|
resort-2017
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2017/tomas-maier
|
Chalk it up to the fact that he lives part of the year in Florida, or that he spends a lot of time on planes flying around the world for his creative director gig atBottega Veneta, butTomas Maierexcels at the art of takeaway clothes. And not just triangle bikinis, flower-print maillots with matching short shorts, and terry-cloth cover-ups. Maier’s new Resort collection was built to move in lots of ways. There’s the one-and-done ease of a pull-on ribbed-knit dress, the day-or-night versatility of a grass green taffeta jumpsuit, and the weightless, wash-it-in-the-sink simplicity of cotton poplin shirts. Not even his evening options were precious. On the contrary, his duchesse satin dresses were finished with large plastic zips; in the lookbook he paired them with sneakers.The thing to remember with Maier is that easy doesn’t mean unconsidered. His nylon windbreakers were garment-dyed; darker around the seams and pockets, they look like they’ve enjoyed years of sailboat trips and walks through the woods. For a perfectionist, he has a surprising fixation with clothes looking lived-in and worn, seen here also on suede separates like a tee, full skirt, and culottes. As he did at Bottega Veneta, Maier amped up the color. A peephole-neck, tea-length dress in a micro-floral was especially sweet.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
May 24, 2016
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/57447a94bdaf6e3b6aa3d6e5/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-tomas-maier-resort-17.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2017
|
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] |
||
Tome
|
spring-2019-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/tome
|
After a couple of seasons of presentations and one on the Paris calendar, today Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin brought Tome back to New York. A few rows of white benches faced a wall of floor-to-ceiling windows, and as the looks came gliding down the runway, it was like watching a modern and enchanting dance performance. Tome’s clothes always have a certain flow to them, and they fit any body shape.Lobo and Martin like to begin with references to female artists, and for Spring they were inspired by Mary Cassatt and Berthe Morisot, two of very few female Impressionist painters who worked in France. Female empowerment is a touchstone for the designers, and they drew from Cassatt and Morisot being women in a boys’ club. They showed a menswear-inspired suit vest that came decorated with three tassels at the front, striped men’s shirting, and slouchy trousers. To touch on the actual work of Cassatt and Morisot, there were not-too-tight corsets and late-19th-century silhouettes.Rose, hibiscus, and marigold tie-dye appeared on a new range of canvas bags, all made with natural dyes formulated with temple flowers found throughout India. At Tome, sustainability is key, and this season the label incorporated organic hemp, cotton, and linens into its lineup. The tassels used for several of the pieces were made by refugee women who have resettled in Texas.Despite its artistic intentions, the collection had a natural, earthy vibe, especially in the long white shorts and tie top ensemble, as well as the blue and yellow tie-dyed dress. (This mood was also emphasized by the new fringe-embellished Teva sandals that grounded the looks.) The clothes were almost beach-ready at times, and Spring was an homage to the idea of what Lobo and Martin call “modern leisure.” Their direction, like that of many American designers, has moved away from complexities and into garments that just work. Here there weren’t any neons, prints, logos, or intimidating layering techniques. Lobo and Martin may have put on a bigger show than usual this afternoon, but where they really succeeded was in bringing a little lightness, prettiness, and soft beauty back into fashion.
|
Brooke Bobb
|
September 11, 2018
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5b98166e727e71287c3ccd84/master/w_1280,c_limit/DSC0001.JPG"
] |
spring
|
2019
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Tome
|
resort-2019
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2019/tome
|
Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin are always looking back in an effort to move forward. They pick apart the pieces they’ve designed in the past and reconstruct them for a new moment, building on their brand DNA in a way that doesn’t seem forced. This season was probably one of the finest examples of their self-referencing; their signature pleating and wrap styles took on a new life for Resort 2019. Lobo and Martin were inspired by the artist Eva Hesse and her serene, pastel-tinged color palette. Riffing on Hesse’s minimalist work, the designers incorporated layered stripes and check prints on micro-pleats and sashes to mimic a 3-D surface on the garments. The signature shirting and trousers had a new kind of volume that was as dynamic visually as some of Hesse’s most provocative sculptures. Specifically, Lobo and Martin made note of one of the artist’s breakout exhibits, which was built from found objects left behind in the old German textile mill in which Hesse worked and resided for a period of time.The idea of sustainability and using discarded objects (as Hesse did) to create new pieces of clothing is of extreme importance to the Tome designers. This season, they’re using new materials like recycled polyester generated from PET bottles, recycled cotton blends, and linen and hemp from women-owned mills in Peru. Livi and Martin are also working with their original muse and model Rachel Rutt, along with Kath Davis and Kim Pearce, who all launched the Possibility Project together, which promotes a circular fashion economy. This season, the clothes were lovely, but the real draw was in the bottom line: taking discards and using them to create something new with an innovative edge.
|
Brooke Bobb
|
June 6, 2018
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5b183a7cf7a82526fc01ffc3/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-tome-vogue-resort-2019-sara-kerens.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2019
|
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] |
||
Tome
|
fall-2018-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-ready-to-wear/tome
|
The Tome guys are all about change at the moment. Not permanent change, per se, but experimental departures led by creative impulses. For one, Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin have decided to do a salon presentation in Paris this season instead of a show in New York. They insist, however, that this isn’t because everyone else is doing it, and it doesn’t mean they won’t return home next season. For them, the collection itself informed their decision to show in Paris. Overall, Tome’s Fall outing is an intriguing break from their brand’s minimally minded DNA. As such, it deserved a fresh, slightly exotic arena in which to be seen. Lobo and Martin are known for their sharply structured, architectural silhouettes, and now they’re hoping to be noticed for something else—something in the realm of “more is more” fashion. It’s not so much that ’80s excess we’ve seen come down the runway in droves these past few weeks, but instead, a feeling of heft and a swirling together of prints, fabrics, and colors.Collaging was what pushed Lobo and Martin to create their Fall collection and, specifically, the work of Harlem-based artist Tschabalala Self. The designers met with her, consulted with her, and ended up casting her in the lookbook. Self uses materials like old textiles and painted fabrics to create mesmerizing mixed-media works. You could spot her vision in the patchwork zebra and leopard jacquard jackets, the intarsia knits, and the heavy wool blankets wrapped around models like protective cocoons. The graphic pattern on some silk garments was inspired by the work of feminist artist Judy Chicago, while others borrowed from the quirky, brilliant aesthetic of the Cameroonian photographer Samuel Fosso. Everything was handmade in New York and, as the designers willingly admitted, the process was at times quite painstaking. This was Lobo and Martin’s version of a couture collection, in which the typical confines of their brand heritage, their show schedule, their subtle materials, and their monochromatic color palettes were thrown out the window in favor of something a little more daring, a little more kaleidoscopic. This new Tome look might not last forever, but it was a commendable switch-up. Anyway, what’s so wrong with taking a little trip out of town and out of bounds?
|
Brooke Bobb
|
February 27, 2018
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5a9590fdd9fbe8599925539d/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-tome-fall-ready-to-wear-2018.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2018
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Tome
|
spring-2018-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-to-wear/tome
|
Runway show locations have gotten somewhat out of control. Coming off of a brisk, late night that involved standing on the streets of Bushwick for an hour past the scheduled showtime for Alexander Wang, all while getting corralled and hollered at by ornery security guards, the Tome presentation today was quite the treat. There was no party bus, no secret location, no far-off venue or elaborate set. Not a Nicki Minaj or Kim Kardashian West in sight. Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin are just not about that life. For Spring, the designers chose to stage a quiet, intimate dance performance choreographed by one of their favorite and longtime muses, Pam Tanowitz. Inside a small theater space near the West Side Highway, models flanked the stage while at center lithe bodies moved to the sounds of drums, violin, and piano. It was, in a mid–Fashion Week haze, a calming environment to say the least.It was also enthralling, not only because of the dancers but also because of Lobo and Martin’s lovely clothes. Just as Tanowitz’s work focuses on deconstructing and reconstructing classical ballet, the designers took the colors of the rainbow, broke them apart, and pieced them back together again by incorporating gorgeous pleating, floral prints, and patterns like stripes and plaids. The range of vibrantly hued and pleated dresses were especially dreamy, as were the asymmetrical wrap skirts. Shirting and knitwear were also strong, especially the pieces that came in pops of red and yellow.Appropriately, Lobo and Martin’s collection looked easy and effortless and ideal to move around in—whether dancing on stage or running to and from another show in some remote part of New York. The new wares from Tome were a pleasure to look at, and Tanowitz’s performance was a hypnotizing joy amid the chaos.
|
Brooke Bobb
|
September 11, 2017
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/59b71dc3d104ac042ecc6d8c/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-tome-spring-2018-ready-to-wear.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2018
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Tome
|
fall-2017-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/tome
|
Like many designers showing at New York Fashion Week, Tome’s Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin were inspired by this year’s Women’s March on Washington. Unlike some of their peers (mainly those focused on big business), their inspiration came through in a way that felt genuine and not part of the latest trend of opportunistic philanthropy. They also gave some serious love to the Guerrilla Girls, an anonymous all-female art coalition fighting for women’s rights around the world. Martin mentioned that they’d actually had the chance to meet with a couple of its members after the march. As a cheeky nod to the group and their work, the designers embellished the backs of blazers with bananas and glistening “GG” initials.Other than the funny fruit, the rest of the sustainable collection was devoid of any obvious ornamentation. The most appealing pieces were those anchored in simplicity but elevated by Lobo and Martin’s easy playfulness. The clothing equivalent of statements like “Free the Nipple!” and “My Body My Choice!” was a structured two-button black blazer with fur arms and lining, with a subtle white silhouette of a naked woman’s bust and torso on the front. There was also cropped white shirting with corsetry that purposely didn’t cling too tightly. Jersey dresses featured circle motifs placed just so over the chest and the ubiquitous pussy-hat-pink made a nice cameo on three light and airy day-to-night dresses.“Right now, women and their bodies are under attack,” Lobo said backstage. “I think it’s important, that no matter whether you’re a fashion designer or an activist, that you make a statement and speak whenever you have the opportunity—all of our choices this season were very deliberate.” Tome has always been a brand that caters to all women, no matter their shape, size, or age. Today it was the female form that gave them their aesthetic strength. Models who walked the show included three plus-size women and one older model with slicked-back gray hair. But the designers eschew the label of embracing diversity. “I think inclusiveness is a more interesting word,” Martin said, moments after the show. “Diversity suggests outsiders, whereas inclusiveness is just about acceptance with no questions asked.”That attitude translated well into a show produced with an array of references in mind—the music included activist-songwriter Harry Belafonte and hip-hop duo Salt-N-Pepa singing “Ain't Nuthin' But A She Thing,” while stylistic tributes were made to artists like Dorothea Tanning, Louise Bourgeois, and Alina Szapocznikow, and their artistic renderings of dismembered female body parts.Tome’s efforts were refreshingly honest and the smart garments proved as much. The collection had power, humor, insight, and plenty of battle-ready bodies.
|
Brooke Bobb
|
February 12, 2017
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/58a0c14ae2a71e71788ad2da/master/w_1280,c_limit/TOME1931.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2017
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Tome
|
pre-fall-2017
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2017/tome
|
As this reviewer has often noted, one of the bonus pleasures of talking to designers about their collections is that you often get exposed to influences of theirs you might never have known about otherwise. Such was the case today, as Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin introduced their latest offering, which took the paintings of Austrian artist Maria Lassnig as its jumping-off point. Lassnig, who passed away in 2014 at the ripe old age of 94, is hardly obscure. But neither is she a household name. Her work is well worth checking out. So too theTomecollection it inspired.What Lobo and Martin got from Lassnig, in general, was this collection’s vivid palette and its languid, body-conscious quality. That’sbody conscious, notbody-con—though the new Tome pieces in black jersey were certainly svelte and the ribbed knits undeniably formfitting, the looks were more suggestive than bodacious. Meanwhile, the lineup was nicely balanced between those slinky items and ones with a more romantic sensibility, conveyed either through flowing volumes or coquettish ruffles or flounces. The consistent element was this collection’s focus on the waist, nipped in variously by bows, soft corsetry, lacing, ties, and wraps.Lobo and Martin weren’t rewriting the Tome script here. That was by design—their primary focus this season was to update a few core ideas, like their signature shirting-inspired items and the broad karate pants they’ve shown more or less consistently since the brand’s launch. As they explained, an appreciation for consistency was one other note they took from Lassnig, who circled a few of the same things again and again, from varying angles, over the course of her long career. And the duo are doubling down on the idea: Next week they’ll be launching Classics, a range of evergreen pieces that will be for sale on the Tome website.
|
Maya Singer
|
December 9, 2016
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/584b1d4e567f742b46e1b725/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-tome-prefall-2017.jpg"
] |
pre-fall
|
2017
|
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]
] |
||
Tome
|
spring-2017-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/tome
|
It was a few seasons ago thatTome’sRyan Lobo first told reviewers that he and his design partner, Ramon Martin, were looking to defy the perception of their designs as overly academic—“all white shirts and black separates,” as Lobo put it. Today, Martin and Lobo showed a collection that, yes, still had plenty of black and white, but this one put sensuality first. It’s been five years for Tome, a milestone for any brand, and there was a real sense of joy that rang through the clothes, which boasted geometric prints inspired by Bridget Riley’s artwork alongside frills and frippery at the shoulders, cuffs, and hems, seemingly all just for the fun of it. And when it comes to fashion, never underestimate the appeal of “fun.” This is, after all, an industry that operates first and foremost on desire.Which isn’t to say that Lobo and Martin abandoned their particular brand of female-first idealism: The show’s notes came with a Germaine Greer quote calling for a female-led political revolution culled from a Sinéad O’Connor song, and backstage, both designers took care to mention the many women artists who’ve inspired them, from Louise Bourgeois and Pina Bausch to Tina Chow and Madonna. The collection’s prints fittingly came from Piece & Co., a women’s collective in India, and handbags and leather bracelets were created in a partnership with Intel that imbued them with a chip that measures environmental toxins, ambient temperature, and air pressure—technology meant to make women feel safer in their communities.Inspiration for this collection came, as it always does for the duo, from the relationship between women and art. In a break from tradition, two of the artists mentioned today, Malick Sidibé and Seydou Keïta, are men, though Martin argued that since the subjects of their photographs are women, it doesn’t count. “Plus,” he added, “it’s our fifth birthday, so we get to cut loose.” If the brand’s excellent, inclusive casting—among them “a transgender model, a model in her 60s, a curvy model,” as Lobo recounted—and irreproachably romantic slit-open gypsy skirts and 1930s-style lace wiggle dresses are any indication, this season, they should really have something to celebrate.
|
Alessandra Codinha
|
September 11, 2016
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/57d5a1baae911de23b9d3865/master/w_1280,c_limit/_AIT0017.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2017
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Tome
|
resort-2017
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2017/tome
|
Ramon Martin and Ryan Lobo typically look to a female artist for inspiration when they’re designing their collections forTome; it’s much rarer that the artist looks back. But such was the case on Tuesday, when Lobo took this reviewer on a tour of The FLAG Art Foundation’s exhibition of Patricia Cronin’s “Shrine for Girls,” which he and Martin had initially seen at the 56th International Art Exhibition at the Venice Biennale. Cronin, who was on hand at the gallery (and later at Tome’s studio) to discuss her work, was inspired by three recent tragedies that had to do with the global plight of exploited women—the 276 Nigerian Chibok schoolgirls who were kidnapped by Boko Haram in 2014; two teenage Indian girls who were gang-raped, and lynched at the edge of their village,Katra Sahadatganj,in 2014; and the “fallen” women who worked in forced labor during the 20th century at Ireland's Magdalene asylums and laundries (memorably shown in the 2013 filmPhilomena).In Venice, the installation consisted of what Cronin called three “shrines” that she created by heaping garments on the marble altars of Venice’s 16th-century Chiesa di San Gallo: brightly colored saris for the Indian girls; hijabs for the Chibok girls; and gray and white aprons for the fallen women in Ireland. Small photographs set off to the side of each depicted scenes from the tragedies, and there were three large-scale painted portraits of a victim from each at the other end of the gallery, part of Cronin’s intention to magnify what is called “the identifiable victim effect.” Naming a victim makes them more sympathetic, and thus harder to ignore. As the exhibition came to New York and continues on its international tour, the Venetian marble altars have been replaced by wooden crates, in which the clothes themselves are packed and sent.Cronin's shrines bring to mind a massacre, a genocide, a reckoning; one realizes that a great quantity of discarded clothes in large, careless piles is never a good sign. “Clothes felt especially powerful, because they’re so personal,” said Cronin, “and we know the form they’re supposed to take, what they look like in [Tome’s] studio right now, for instance—and this is not that. This is powerful because it reminds you what is absent, which are the bodies.”Which brings us back to the point of this review: Those looking to clothe their own bodies will do well with Tome’s latest collection, which relayed those three shrines not into any literal translation, but into a celebration of textile as totem, the personal becoming (somewhat) political. “We’re very invested in sustainability,” explained Lobo. This season, that meant more up-cycled denim (here with some recycled leather accents) and responsibly sourced cashmere, but above all, creating pieces that women will want to buy and wear again and again (often inspired by Tome’s own customers, who, for instance, clamored for a resurgence of pink tulle from Spring, here shown in a pleated skirt). The best examples here? Charming cabana-striped cotton jumpsuits with generous bows tied at the waist, Malhia Kent tweeds woven into trousers and jackets, and the easy shirtdresses and sexy-yet-easy sheaths that laced up the sides to a waist-whittling effect, and promised to take all of the drama out of day-to-night dressing. All the better to focus on what really matters.
|
Alessandra Codinha
|
June 14, 2016
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/586d7fe648ab6a076bb6c27d/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-tome-resort-2017.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2017
|
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] |
||
Toni Maticevski
|
fall-2010-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2010-ready-to-wear/toni-maticevski
|
Having pulled off a string of red-carpet coups recently, Toni Maticevski can hardly be faulted for making his case as an awards-show designer. After all, Oscar night is less than a month away. Maticevski's flair for drama was on display—he likes his fabrics shiny and his embellishments shinier—but a few of the looks could have benefited from a bit more restraint. He was at his best when he kept it simple.The silk tulle and organza gowns in dove gray that opened the show were sweet and chic; with their hair slicked back in dressy ballerina chignons, the models looked like a pair of Degas dancers out for a night on the town. The multilayered polka-dot evening dresses in silk chiffon would look great on any number of the latest crop of barely twentysomething starlets.Before the show, Maticevski mentioned he was working on "slicing up and segmenting the body," and that intention was clear in the visual slashes made by unflattering strips and swags of fabric and in the peacock-feather-festooned bras that topped a few busy ensembles. Still, there were interesting experiments in layering and ornamentation here, and in another season or two—maybe by the time the Golden Globes roll around again—Maticevski will likely have worked out the kinks.
|
Alison Baenen
|
February 10, 2010
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c651b808298d8be226af9b/master/w_1280,c_limit/00010fullscreen.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2010
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Toni Maticevski
|
fall-2007-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2007-ready-to-wear/toni-maticevski
|
"I have been working on pretty, floaty, feminine for so long," said Australian designer Toni Maticevski, who played Edward Scissorhands in his sophomore New York effort, slashing away at conventional notions of beauty and proportion. "I felt I needed to add a bit more severity and grit."You could see echoes of thirties Hollywood in the long, sinuous lines and the embroidered balloon sleeves. But the fragile allure of these details was willfully sabotaged: Underneath a delicate ivory bias gown with beaded blossoms, for example, was a bondage-style bathing suit.Intent on exploring the darker facets of his talent, Maticevski refused to give the audience what it expected. A simple black cocktail dress with a twisted neckline stood out, as did a minidress dripping with antique jet. But the choreography—with models aggressively (and strangely) clutching at their hips—was bound to be jarring for viewers who, after last season, came expecting a garden party. And the padded, Popsicle-colored puffer gowns brought ¿freak legend¿ Leigh Bowery to mind. Maticevski, explaining these last as ¿blow ups¿ of the thirties bias look, remained defiant: ¿You either love them or you hate them,¿ he said. For many in the audience, you suspected, it was a case of the latter.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
February 2, 2007
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6517608298d8be22214f4/master/w_1280,c_limit/00010m.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2007
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Toni Maticevski
|
spring-2007-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2007-ready-to-wear/toni-maticevski
|
Aussie Toni Maticevski arrived at the UPS Hub without a great deal of fanfare, but left with lots of new friends. He showed an appealing, delicate collection featuring trapeze shapes and diaphanous fabrics. "I wanted to explore textures and techniques, and dimensionality rather than make flat clothes," he said backstage. Organza and voile were some of the fabrics Maticevski used to give volume to sixties A-line shapes. In contrast, silk satin was draped and knotted to liquid effect.The show was uneven—a blouse with Capulet sleeves seemed incongruous, as did a lone menswear look, paraded barefoot no less—but there was promise here. The eveningwear in particular was winning, especially a silk and tulle gown that looked as light as a cloud.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
September 7, 2006
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6517008298d8be221a029/master/w_1280,c_limit/01m.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2007
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Toronero
|
mexico-spring-2024
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/mexico-spring-2024/toronero
|
Toronero’s Emilio de Anda and David Hernández have been developing their brand project for six years. This year they debuted at Mexico Fashion Week with a collection that uniquely combines cowboy and urban aesthetics that carry through not only the cuts of the pieces and the styling, but their diverse casting as well.They named their spring collection “Bonanza,” and cited summers in the Mexican countryside as their inspiration, specifically the act of gathering around “where bodies of water are formed, such as lakes, lagoons, and rivers that become the meeting point for families.” Hernàndez added, “That’s why we made these ‘wet skin’ textures, as if the [fabric] was glued to the body.”Leather pants reflected the fluidity of water and seemed to allow the models to walk with ease. Further expressing this feeling were knitted pieces, and draped dresses and tops. The collection’s highlight arrived at the end; a model wearing a draped pencil skirt and a corrugated leather top, the result of the duo’s “experimentation,” according to de Anda.Before starting university in Guadalajara, de Anda lived in Milan, where he discovered his inclination for fashion; while Hernández’s interest began at a young age while growing up in his mother’s beauty salon in a small town in Jalisco. Now together, they are beginning a new era with the inauguration of a boutique in the Juárez neighborhood of Mexico City.
|
Luz Garcia
|
October 16, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6529628255797538c0db94ac/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-toronero-spring-2024-ready-to-wear-mexico-credit-israel-esparza-mercedes-benz-fashion-week-mexico.jpg"
] |
mexico
|
spring
|
2024
|
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] |
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