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Alexander Mcqueen
|
resort-2023
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2023/alexander-mcqueen
|
If there’s one thing Sarah Burton has mastered, it’s how to take a very English sense of romance—a full-skirted gown, a floral motif, lavish embroidery—and lend it a perfectly judged (and, come to think of it, equally English) dose of edge. It was a pleasure, then, to see her lean further into the darker and more dangerous territory she’s been exploring over the past few seasons, from sleek, sculptural leather jackets and skirts, to the deliciously kinky studded eyelets and harnesses that decorated shirting, accessories, and a handful of sleeveless blazer dresses.So too, were there plenty of satisfying parallels with Burton’s spring 2023 collection, which premiered last month under a bubble-like dome placed in the central expanse of Greenwich’s Old Royal Naval College, and saw her lean into some of her predecessor’s racier instincts. Notably via slashed, tummy-baring blazers, and—perhaps most notably of all—the return of Lee McQueen’s infamous bumster pants, folding their eye-popping flash of buttock into razor-sharp tailoring to offer a surprisingly refined new spin on this most divisive of ’90s trends.For resort, Burton also experimented with deconstructed, skin-baring tailoring, whether a calf-length, caped blazer-dress hybrid with cutaway sleeves in a sumptuously thick black wool, or a particularly desirable jacket nipped and slashed at the waist to create a cocoon-like, sculptural seat, with crystals embroidered across the shoulders to create a kind of harness. For all their opulence, the clothes are grounded in a genuine spirit of practicality too; a green cotton jacket with bouffant sleeves that could easily be worn with a pair of jeans, or a calico trench coat with panel details and parka-like laces to cinch the waist on the fly.As a pre-collection, it’s only natural that it should have a more wearable bent. But a series of statement eveningwear pieces taking their cues from Burton’s ongoing fascination with astronomy—a one-shouldered gown lavished with crystals and sequins inspired by the milky glow of star constellations, or jackets with astral embroidery across the lapels—served as the most compelling reminder of Burton’s extraordinary ability to blend romance with reality. As always, it’s when Burton lets herself get swept away into her more whimsical flights of fancy (and, by extension, sweeps you away along with her) that her distinctive vision of hard-edged glamour dazzles most—and her star-studded, night sky-inspired confections achieved a thrilling sense of lift-off.
|
Liam Hess
|
November 17, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/636e8a96f0216316362c105f/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexander-mcqueen-resort-2023-credit-brand.jpg"
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resort
|
2023
|
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||
Alexander Mcqueen
|
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen
|
On a sparkling October day in London, a drone was hovering over the splendid Greenwich Naval College, recording the goings-on in a transparent bubble that had landed in the middle of Sir Christopher Wren’s 17th century landmark. It seemed a symbolic irony that the mechanical eye-in-the-sky—a standard device these days for recording fashion spectacles—must have been surveilling the focus of Sarah Burton’s collection hundreds of feet below. The human eye.“The eye is the most unique symbol of humanity—each one is like a fingerprint; each one is completely individual,” she said, explaining the enlarged prints and raffia-fringed images of irises, pupils, and eyelashes embedded in dresses and spilling over a trouser suit. That thought gave her the impetus to begin to grapple with layers of themes that the house of McQueen has always been concerned with: nature and technology, deep history and present fears.“It’s sort of about seeing things again,” she said. “Not walking around with your eyes shut, your eyes down. Just seeing each other, recognizing each others’ humanity. Caring about each other.” But against that, she also meant that having open eyes on the world means taking on terrors. Burton recently re-read Orwell’s1984. “That played into it as well: how do you find human contact in the world we live in, in the world of technology?”And then, she’d taken a good look at Hieronymus Bosch’sGarden of Earthly Delights, in a book with zoomed-in detail of the artist’s ghastly imaginings in a setting surrounded by flowers and fountains. There were Bosch demons battling with angels in Alexander McQueen’s posthumous collection. Burton was asked why she returned to the reference, to adorn some sections of the collection in patterns and embroideries after Bosch. “It’s the times we’re living in now, she said. “It feels like almost like we’re in another Dark Ages in many ways. It’s something we’ve always looked at, at McQueen. Life, death, destruction, beauty. It’s all there. Maybe,” she reflected, “it’s what people do to each other actually. And then, the beauty right next to it. So there’s this strange juxtaposition of humanity behaving in one way, and nature in another.”But we’re getting away from how her collection looked. Besides the decorative narratives, out came clean, sharp tailoring. Look two: a revival of McQueen’s bumsters, with a cropped tuxedo jacket cut into sharp points at the front and the rest of it balanced to swing at the back. There are generations that have never heard of bumsters—Alexander McQueen invented that explosive downward shift of pant design in the 1990s. But the red-hot relevance of torso-exposure, and clothes designed to expose slices of naked flesh needs no explanation to new eyes.“It’s how would you adjust the proportion of a woman's body? I feel like it’s always about a woman dressing for a woman,” she added. “ So it’s not a male gaze. I wanted to sort of embrace the female form; to sort of slice away in a very kind of dissected way.”She pursued that idea through different tactics, in swooped-fronted tailored jumpsuits, knitted dresses fashioned in tiered strips leaving open slices of negative space, and in half-open panels aerating romantic full-skirted evening dresses at the finale.The references to the touchstones of the work of her late boss felt timely in this collection. Sarah Burton is designing in a different world, but the themes she brought to bear, and the skills inherent in the house resonate more than ever today.
|
Sarah Mower
|
October 11, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6345998c942e8f8986734c47/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexander-mcqueen-spring-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Alexander Terekhov
|
russia-fall-2015
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/russia-fall-2015/alexander-terekhov
|
Founded by: Alexander TerekhovYear established: 2004Known for: Elegant womenswear with clean silhouettes and an inclination for extravagant patterned or metallic fabricsStocked at: Opening Ceremony
|
style.com
|
March 31, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650b608298d8be214e044/master/w_1280,c_limit/alexander-terekhov-001-1366.jpg"
] |
russia
|
fall
|
2015
|
[
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]
] |
|
Alexander Wang
|
resort-2025-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2025-menswear/alexander-wang
|
On his brand Instagram account, Alexander Wang is offering Wangovers to tourists and locals he meets in the South Street Seaport neighborhood where he’s headquartered. It’s compulsively watchable content, not least of all because the people who agree to his proposals aren’t typical Wang customers. He’s made over a Bronx granny and a Westchester mom and a Connecticut construction worker with hair, makeup, and a new wardrobe—the works—and when he’s done with them you can just about believe that any one of them is making it past the bouncer and into the club.Wang’s press materials outline his new resort collection’s fundamentals as holiday dressing, subverted suiting, and velour tracksuits, but in palette, silhouette, and styling these clothes are all in fact club ready. Or maybe make that avatar ready? The designer said he and his team were inspired by “hyper-extended AI realities” to create what he described as a “computer generated look.” The concept comes across most clearly in the bandage dresses with honeycombs of peekaboo cutouts that seem to defy gravity, but it also applies to the exaggerated shape of a goat hair hoodie and the boots that look like extensions of the legs.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
November 20, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/673daed006481ae16288197c/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexander-wang-resort-2025-menswear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2025
|
menswear
|
[
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]
] |
|
Alexander Wang
|
resort-2025
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2025/alexander-wang
|
On his brand Instagram account, Alexander Wang is offering Wangovers to tourists and locals he meets in the South Street Seaport neighborhood where he’s headquartered. It’s compulsively watchable content, not least of all because the people who agree to his proposals aren’t typical Wang customers. He’s made over a Bronx granny and a Westchester mom and a Connecticut construction worker with hair, makeup, and a new wardrobe—the works—and when he’s done with them you can just about believe that any one of them is making it past the bouncer and into the club.Wang’s press materials outline his new resort collection’s fundamentals as holiday dressing, subverted suiting, and velour tracksuits, but in palette, silhouette, and styling these clothes are all in fact club ready. Or maybe make that avatar ready? The designer said he and his team were inspired by “hyper-extended AI realities” to create what he described as a “computer generated look.” The concept comes across most clearly in the bandage dresses with honeycombs of peekaboo cutouts that seem to defy gravity, but it also applies to the exaggerated shape of a goat hair hoodie and the boots that look like extensions of the legs.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
November 20, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/673db05e1d7d4a2b80a4cc45/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexander-wang-resort-2025-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2025
|
[
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] |
||
Alexander Wang
|
fall-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-ready-to-wear/alexander-wang
|
Alexander Wang has opened a new store at the Fontainebleau in Las Vegas. At an appointment at his showroom in the South Street Seaport (also new), he reported that the store reached its monthly goal on the first day of business. Maybe that’s because the pre-fall collection on the racks is so well suited to Vegas’s oasis-in-the-desert milieu—not because it’s skin baring and sexy—all Wang collections are these days—but because of its mood.“She’s kind of a postapocalyptic showgirl,” Wang said. “I was inspired by this idea of Mad Max going through downtown Vegas. We were thinking of motorcycles and other vehicles covered in exhaust.” The denim and leather look sun bleached and desert weathered—Wang called it “pre-aged”—while the padded shoulders on zip-front jackets evoke the late Tina Turner, star ofMad Max Beyond Thunderdome, and the primal decadence of her Aunty Entity chain mail. Hotfix-crystal camisoles and cocktail dresses add a bit of Vegas-strip glitz, and for a showgirl’s off-hours, there are track pants and athletic shorts with a liquid sheen.The fall collection pictured here also revs at idle with its emphasis on motocross leathers, heavy-duty black jeans, faux-fur jackets, and hip-high cuissards. His recently introduced Ricco bag, with its “trap” (trapezoidal) stud detailing, has multiplied, with many new iterations in different materials and shapes, including one that looks a lot like a football, a callback to his sporty spring 2010 collection.Wang knows Vegas from childhood trips. “I always used to go there with my family for Chinese New Year. It was a big Chinese New Year destination.” So what did he make ofFuriosa? “Oh, I’m always a fan of the original.” If and when George Miller does make anotherMad Maxmovie, he could give the designer a ring.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
August 29, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/66b490bda6cf5d0902acc995/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexander-wang-fall-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Alexander Wang
|
pre-fall-2024
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2024/alexander-wang
|
The backside of a black car was sticking out of a window on the Grand Street side of Alexander Wang’s Soho store last night. A crash scene? That’s what CCTV video posted to his Instagram Stories earlier in the day suggested.Talk about a loaded metaphor! His brand is about to turn 20, but provocation has long been part of its DNA and Wang, that car crash footage made clear, isn’t pulling back now. Inside, the boutique was transformed into a sort of deconstructed den of iniquity, with piles of money (faux), a pair of tanning beds (real), and a fireplace (electric) with a sportscar mantle. The first model out, wearing a full-zip bodysuit and sheer tights, crushed a cocktail glass in her hand before making her way around the space, signaling the zero-fucks-given vibe of the night. Also mood-setting: Kim Catrall, brash Samantha toSex and the City’s Carrie, was in the audience and basketball’s erstwhile bad boy Dennis Rodman walked the runway.The collection was top-of-the-line Wang: downtown, sexy and skin-baring, and with what seemed like a heavier than usual emphasis on leather. The leather came embellished with studs and cut into a roomy bomber, stamped with a croc pattern and draped into an asymmetrical dress, or used for the thigh-scraping wader boots with straps up the back that accompanied many of the looks. Denim, another mainstay, was downplayed, but a pair of washed and faded low-slung jeans and an oversized shirt looked good, less night out at the club, more street-ready in the old-school Alexander Wang way.Rodman modeled a roomy leather track suit and Slick Woods, who sported a similar red dye job but not the Ricco studs that the basket baller had glued to his head (the Ricco bag being Wang’s big relaunch this year), was wearing a velour version of the same silhouette. Athleisure or loungewear—whatever we’re calling it these days—is another brand fundamental chez Wang post-pandemic, and a bustier and narrow floor-length skirt made novel use of sweatshirt material. On the dressier side, stretch jersey was spliced and shaped into flared-hem leggings or tube skirts, and a wiggle dress, all with a latticework of peekaboo cut-outs. Origami’d blazers made cool accompaniments to the leggings and skirts.As the show emptied out onto Grand Street, a crowd of people were overheard talking about an after-party. Any one of Wang’s looks could’ve walked straight off the runway and into the bash and looked right.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
June 6, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/66b48b7dcd8ad1389a0aea67/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexander-wang-pre-fall-2024-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
pre-fall
|
2024
|
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] |
||
Alexander Wang
|
spring-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/alexander-wang
|
Alexander Wang wasn’t on the New York Fashion Week calendar, but that doesn’t mean that the designer or his brand have gone dark. The company recently relocated from Chinatown to a large, bright space at the South Street Seaport. Wang and his team now occupy two floors of the building where Carla Sozzani’s 10 Corso Como outpost used to be. The showroom has views of the Brooklyn Bridge, and in signature Wang fashion, there are black calla lilies, Byredo Loveless candles, and speakers built into the walls that pump out a rotation of curated playlists at different sound levels depending on the space.Of this see-now, buy-now spring 2024 collection he said, it’s “really this idea of the concrete jungle.” Thinking about new erogenous zones, he added vertical slits to the front of loose-fitting pants—which is a developing trend also seen at Phoebe Philo and Daniel Lee’s Burberry, where functional zippers allowed for adaptability. At Wang, the thigh and shin slits are bought as sold, sexy for the youth market they’re aimed at. Exposed underwear is a look he was early to: Scan back to the spring 2018 show he put on on a dead-end street in Bushwick, Brooklyn, with cotton briefs peeking out of waistbands and bra tops hybridized with button-downs. Here he showed leather bra tops trimmed in crochet and a bomber-bra-top mash-up complete with pockets over the breasts—underwear that, for all intents and purposes, is now outerwear. On a similar mixed-use wavelength, he developed water-safe denim swimwear—the briefest of bikinis, cropped jean jacket, jeggings-style shorts, etc.—that can be worn directly from the beach to the club.Does Wang think about rejoining the New York schedule, where he was once one of its bright stars? He has a—gasp—20th anniversary on the horizon that might be a moment to come back. He doesn’t want to commit, but he did say he’s planning an activation timed to the release of his pre-fall collection. As designers up and down the fashion food chain reconsider the value and importance of fashion shows, a client-first approach might just be the right way to go for Wang. All you have to do is walk around downtown on a summer weekend to know that there are customers for his brand of young, body-positive fashion—lots of them.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 20, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/65d4c4741f297d3979330676/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexander-wang-spring-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Alexander Wang
|
resort-2024
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2024/alexander-wang
|
Alexander Wang has entered his heritage brand era. The Rocco bag, first launched in 2009, is the comeback star of his latest collection. “When people started asking me for the Rocco again, I said, ‘are we really there yet? Are we back here?’” Wang recalled at a showroom visit. “I felt like it was just literally yesterday when I thought, ‘there’s too much Rocco,’ we need to purge.”As it turns out, Wang’s Rocco revival is coming right on schedule. Fashion conscious young people move fast and having embraced the Y2K trend, they’re now turning their attention to the 2010s, as the very online among us have noticed. “They weren’t around for the first round,” Wang continued. “They’re digging deeper into the depths of the internet. I couldn’t believe it, but I was getting texts from people asking me to make it again.” Where the original gave slouchy “model off-duty” vibes, the new one’s aerodynamism is born from the high frequency printing techniques used to make it.The early 2010s were Wang’s golden years, if that term can be used for a designer not yet 40. He had opened his first store in New York and had not yet been appointed as creative director at Balenciaga, and he was defining his design language—the deconstructed tailoring, the underwear as outerwear, and the leather and denim that gave his brand more street cred than any of his New York contemporaries.Those who witnessed Wang’s rise might shudder at the idea that his pre-Instagram collections qualify as vintage these days, but the designer himself is cheerily forward looking. He’s fresh off a listening tour in China where he’s opened about 15 stores in the last year. It was his first time in the country since the pandemic, and the feedback he kept hearing from customers was the need for versatility.That translated into Dickies-style chinos designed with hidden stretch waistbands so they can be worn high or low; and styling devices like boxer short tops that can be pulled on like a belt, to create the exposed underwear look without the bulk. For a bit of fun he designed a photo print of coins that appeared on an oversized shirt. Buttons on jean jackets and denim shirts also looked like honest-to-goodness nickels and dimes, though Wang clarified that they’re not actual U.S. currency.Wang’s store expansion is continuing apace in North America. Toronto and Miami are scheduled to open before the end of the year, and Las Vegas and Vancouver are scheduled for early 2024.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
October 24, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/652ebdd4fa70a235673e954b/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexander-wang-resort-2024-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2024
|
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]
] |
||
Alexander Wang
|
resort-2024-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2024-menswear/alexander-wang
|
Alexander Wang has entered his heritage brand era. The Rocco bag, first launched in 2009, is the comeback star of his latest collection. “When people started asking me for the Rocco again, I said, ‘are we really there yet? Are we back here?’” Wang recalled at a showroom visit. “I felt like it was just literally yesterday when I thought, ‘there’s too much Rocco,’ we need to purge.”As it turns out, Wang’s Rocco revival is coming right on schedule. Fashion conscious young people move fast and having embraced the Y2K trend, they’re now turning their attention to the 2010s, as the very online among us have noticed. “They weren’t around for the first round,” Wang continued. “They’re digging deeper into the depths of the internet. I couldn’t believe it, but I was getting texts from people asking me to make it again.” Where the original gave slouchy “model off-duty” vibes, the new one’s aerodynamism is born from the high frequency printing techniques used to make it.The early 2010s were Wang’s golden years, if that term can be used for a designer not yet 40. He had opened his first store in New York and had not yet been appointed as creative director at Balenciaga, and he was defining his design language—the deconstructed tailoring, the underwear as outerwear, and the leather and denim that gave his brand more street cred than any of his New York contemporaries.Those who witnessed Wang’s rise might shudder at the idea that his pre-Instagram collections qualify as vintage these days, but the designer himself is cheerily forward looking. He’s fresh off a listening tour in China where he’s opened about 15 stores in the last year. It was his first time in the country since the pandemic, and the feedback he kept hearing from customers was the need for versatility.That translated into Dickies-style chinos designed with hidden stretch waistbands so they can be worn high or low; and styling devices like boxer short tops that can be pulled on like a belt, to create the exposed underwear look without the bulk. For a bit of fun he designed a photo print of coins that appeared on an oversized shirt. Buttons on jean jackets and denim shirts also looked like honest-to-goodness nickels and dimes, though Wang clarified that they’re not actual U.S. currency.Wang’s store expansion is continuing apace in North America. Toronto and Miami are scheduled to open before the end of the year, and Las Vegas and Vancouver are scheduled for early 2024.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
October 24, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/652ebc1841906ece55a71e08/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexander-wang-resort-2024-menswear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2024
|
menswear
|
[
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]
] |
|
Alexander Wang
|
pre-fall-2023-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2023-menswear/alexander-wang
|
Walk around the New York City streets as the weather warms up and one thing becomes abundantly clear: the quiet luxury trend that we’ve been hearing so much about (including from this website) is mostly, if not completely, a virtual phenomenon. Maybe it’s because the Uber-rich don’t use the streets for walking—they have chauffeured Mercedes Maybachs for that, according to Succession, at least—but the vibe of summer 2023 is shaping up to be quite loud.Alexander Wang is on that wavelength. His pre-fall lineup landing in stores now follows the same sexy from-the-boudoir-to-the-club lines as the “Cupid’s Door” show he put on back in February on the eve of New York Fashion Week. Anyone who saw that collection will recognize these pieces. Lace-edged slip dresses, cotton poplin boxer briefs worn as shorts, and thong underwear arching over hipbones above slouched-on jeans appear in both places. Making its debut here is an extensive new range of accessories that he’s calling Dome. Is it just us or does the matte metal hardware look like it was modeled after a self pleasure sex toy?When the occasion calls for a more covered-up look, Wang has useful tweaked shirting with built-in smocking or wrapped details, as well as streamlined, slightly boxy tailoring on offer. He also gets that athleisure isn’t so much a trend for the young people he’s targeting as it is a way of life, hence the souped-up workout wear. His point of differentiation in this category is that he’s taken cues not from yoga and Pilates gear, which is another omnipresent sight on the NYC streets (a bit tired of all that), but the more oversized proportions of boxing and basketball.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
July 7, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6471194914a266538f8dcbd7/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexander-wang-prefall-2023-menswear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
pre-fall
|
2023
|
menswear
|
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]
] |
|
Alexander Wang
|
pre-fall-2023
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2023/alexander-wang
|
Walk around the New York City streets as the weather warms up and one thing becomes abundantly clear: the quiet luxury trend that we’ve been hearing so much about (including from this website) is mostly, if not completely, a virtual phenomenon. Maybe it’s because the Uber-rich don’t use the streets for walking—they have chauffeured Mercedes Maybachs for that, according to Succession, at least—but the vibe of summer 2023 is shaping up to be quite loud.Alexander Wang is on that wavelength. His pre-fall lineup landing in stores now follows the same sexy from-the-boudoir-to-the-club lines as the “Cupid’s Door” show he put on back in February on the eve of New York Fashion Week. Anyone who saw that collection will recognize these pieces. Lace-edged slip dresses, cotton poplin boxer briefs worn as shorts, and thong underwear arching over hipbones above slouched-on jeans appear in both places. Making its debut here is an extensive new range of accessories that he’s calling Dome. Is it just us or does the matte metal hardware look like it was modeled after a self pleasure sex toy?When the occasion calls for a more covered-up look, Wang has useful tweaked shirting with built-in smocking or wrapped details, as well as streamlined, slightly boxy tailoring on offer. He also gets that athleisure isn’t so much a trend for the young people he’s targeting as it is a way of life, hence the souped-up workout wear. His point of differentiation in this category is that he’s taken cues not from yoga and Pilates gear, which is another omnipresent sight on the NYC streets (a bit tired of all that), but the more oversized proportions of boxing and basketball.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
June 12, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6487287c7ccc5800cdc34373/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexander-wang-prefall-2023-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
pre-fall
|
2023
|
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] |
||
Alexander Wang
|
fall-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/alexander-wang
|
It’s been a minute since Alexander Wang has been on the runway in New York City. In between that May 2019 show and now, Wang faced allegations of sexual misconduct that threw the future of his business into question. He made a public apology and his accusers announced they were “moving forward,” and he put on a show in Los Angeles’s Chinatown in April of 2022, but a New York City comeback has a different level of import.A promo spot on his Instagram Reels starring Anna Delvey, the socialite fraudster under house arrest in an East Village apartment, seemed to suggest he wasn’t proceeding from a chastened place. Cheeky is more like it. That fits with the collection’s theme. He gave it a name, “Cupid’s Door,” and dressed the location in boudoir-ish style, with dusty pink velvet curtains and a mesmeric zebra-stripe carpet; lighting gels that cast a red glow over the whole place.Wang rose to fame in New York 15 years ago on the sexy sellability of what used to be called the model-off-duty look: all slouchy blazers, shredded tanks and tees, and skinny cigarette jeans. He’s no longer the new guy on the block—in fact, he’ll turn 40 later this year—but he still has a handle on what the kids want. Sexy is enjoying a comeback of its own in the wake of the pandemic. Though the spiked platform shoes looked like a relic from another time, the oversized blazers, (Julia Fox’s studded with crystals); lace-edged camisoles; and low-slung python print pants were on the money, he even had boxer briefs peeking over the tops of waistbands.The show was divided into three acts. The opening women’s section also featured a lot of denim and faux fur in a variety of textures and silhouettes, some on the formal side for Wang, who’s always been called a downtown designer. Backstage he mentioned Wong Kar Wai films like 2046 and In the Mood for Love, which might have prompted the dressy vibes.Next came a men’s grouping that was the coolest part of the collection, with casual, athleisure-y items like sweatpants and sweatshirts in soft, high pile fabrics, alongside cropped vests and more animal print pants. Look closely and these pieces were as sparkly as the women’s looks. “I wanted to bring a kind of different sensuality to the masculine items and archetypes, as well,” Wang said.The ending was a series of silk fringe dresses suspended from heart shapes built on a foundation of sheer net that revealed as much as they concealed. For some reason, they conjured a memory of a long distant show, in the peak Alexander Wang year of 2011, whose hero pieces were made from spliced bias cut silk with fringes that spiraled around the hips and legs. Recapturing that heat won’t be easy, but when he came bounding out from backstage and made his trademark running bow you knew he was going to give it his best shot.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 8, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/63e471f06a7c950860a185b6/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexander-wang-fall-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Alexandre Herchcovitch
|
sao-paulo-fall-2016
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/sao-paulo-fall-2016/alexandre-herchcovitch
|
Founder: Alexandre HerchcovitchYear established: 1994Known for: Everything from punkish streetwear to splendid gownsStocked at: His own website,loja.herchcovitch.com.br
| null |
October 20, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5625522297fa0a6b61282f68/master/w_1280,c_limit/_A2X0014.jpg"
] |
sao-paulo
|
fall
|
2016
|
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] |
|
Alexandre Herchcovitch
|
sao-paulo-spring-2015
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/sao-paulo-spring-2015/alexandre-herchcovitch
|
Founder: Alexandre HerchcovitchYear established: 1994Known for: Everything from punkish streetwear to splendid gownsStocked at: His own website,loja.herchcovitch.com.br
|
style.com
|
April 15, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650b608298d8be214e49f/master/w_1280,c_limit/_AG28406.jpg"
] |
sao-paulo
|
spring
|
2015
|
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] |
|
Alexandre Herchcovitch
|
fall-2014-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2014-ready-to-wear/alexandre-herchcovitch
|
Runway images inevitably won't do the craftsmanship of Alexandre Herchcovitch's latest outing justice. The veteran Brazilian designer has been plugging along with collections at varying levels of eccentricity for many a year now, but for Fall he went back in time. Backstage before his show, Herchcovitch spoke about looking to vintage camisoles and other underthings for inspiration. That wasn't the only throwback, though; where construction was concerned, he unearthed specific techniques of embroidery and lace crocheting that boggled the mind in their couture-like precison. The latter, handled by "little old ladies" in the north of Brazil, was particularly showstopping; one dress (Look 29) took roughly three months to create. A wearable and romantic prairie-gothic vibe was the order of the day, with plenty of Victorian flourishes, like jackets with sweeping, slashed muttonchop sleeves. Elsewhere, cashmere jersey camisoles trimmed in tiny crystals were worn half-on over scalloped embroidered button-downs. Amid a sea of peach, cream, tawny brown, and black, three stunning looks in sculpted scarlet and fuchsia wool were a reminder that Herchcovitch sure knows his tailoring. And perhaps most importantly, nearly every piece felt truly special.For some, the dreamy nostalgia and skivvy-inspired ensembles will be a bit much for everyday wear, but here's hoping that Fall's offering finally earns Herchcovitch greater mainstream recognition stateside. After this collection, he deserves it.
|
Kristin Anderson
|
February 8, 2014
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6513308298d8be21d5c3b/master/w_1280,c_limit/_TEN0004.1366x2048.JPG"
] |
fall
|
2014
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Alexandre Herchcovitch
|
spring-2014-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2014-ready-to-wear/alexandre-herchcovitch
|
Alexandre Herchcovitch has always been known for a punky aesthetic, but he's been cleaning up his act the past few seasons, and Spring felt decidedly grown-up and polished while still maintaining a subversive edge. Backstage before his show, the Brazilian designer explained that he "built the clothing by piecing together bands of fabric cut on different angles to flatter different parts of the body." The splicing technique added deconstructed appeal to the opening series of broken-stripe looks cut from couture-grade, heavy double satin, which Herchcovitch whipped into a rash guard-esque crop top and matching pencil skirt with frayed chiffon peeking out at the hemline. The designer experimented with a variety of silhouettes, including on-trend minidresses and slim cropped trousers with sheer overskirts. His most novel proposition was tank tops with lightweight coats attached to the straps, which fluttered like capes behind the models as they walked. Elsewhere, Herchcovitch mashed up zebra stripes and black lace on perfecto jacket-inspired dresses and re-created the same exotic pattern with caviar beading on tough leather sheaths. The lineup felt somewhat somber compared to many of the more uplifting shows so far this week, but Herchcovitch has always been a bit of a dark horse.
|
Brittany Adams
|
September 6, 2013
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6511d08298d8be21bc459/master/w_1280,c_limit/KIM_0004.1366x2048.JPG"
] |
spring
|
2014
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Alexandre Herchcovitch
|
fall-2013-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2013-ready-to-wear/alexandre-herchcovitch
|
Cite "flowers" as design inspiration and watch a crowd of fashion editors roll its eyes at visions of tea-party chintz. But for Alexandre Herchcovitch, the full flower—stamens, pistils, multifoliate petal structure, and all—provided the basis for an intellectual and intriguing Fall collection.The Brazilian designer showed a range of layered looks in which garments were not always what they seemed. The bodice on one "dress" was split down to the navel, so it could be peeled back and worn pannier-style over a full skirt, exposing the bustier beneath. A red chiffon blouse featured arms at both ends, with the second set tied around the waist and the redundant bodice falling to rest on the skirt below, like vestigial wings. Herchcovitch progressed this idea, peeling garments back layer by layer, so that by the end of the show, entire dresses floated around the models' hips.All that bulk and volume could get a little ungainly for a real-life wearer, all those extra wisps irritatingly extraneous, so there were more commercial pieces in the mix. A body-con dress with a chiffon peplum reproduced the layered look with all-in-one ease. Prints also provided a more palatable, 2-D way into the subject matter. Oddly haunting drawings of spider orchids and other tropical flora achieved beauty without any cloying associations. But for this designer, the experiment of deconstructing clothes with a botanist's precision seemed the chief interest—let the petals fall where they may.
|
Emily Cronin
|
February 8, 2013
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6510b08298d8be21a7d2c/master/w_1280,c_limit/YVL_7157.1366x2048.JPG"
] |
fall
|
2013
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Alexandre Herchcovitch
|
spring-2013-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2013-ready-to-wear/alexandre-herchcovitch
|
"Karma Chameleon." "I'll Tumble 4 Ya." "Do You Really Want to Hurt Me?" The immortal Culture Club hits that looped on the soundtrack at the Alexandre Herchcovitch show today were plenty enjoyable; some attendees couldn't help but sing along. But you didn't need to hear the songs to know that this collection was Herchcovitch's homage to Boy George. Indeed, a huge part of the collection's charm was its overtness—Herchcovitch was wearing his heart on his sleeve, and his girl was wearing signature Boy George hearts all over her clothes. Still, the Brazilian designer's take on the Boy George look wasn't straightforward. Using substantial, couture-quality materials, he reinterpreted the singer's baggy, Culture Club-era ensembles as blocky tees, board shorts, jumpsuits, and shirtdresses. Early-eighties checks, plaids, and font prints were absurdly exaggerated, giving the looks a winning madcap affect. This show was a lot of fun—and not just because of the music playing in the background.
|
Maya Singer
|
September 8, 2012
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650f208298d8be218d5fe/master/w_1280,c_limit/_VIE7547.900x1350.JPG"
] |
spring
|
2013
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Alexandre Herchcovitch
|
fall-2012-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2012-ready-to-wear/alexandre-herchcovitch
|
A typical Alexandre Herchcovitch show cycles through a lot of looks and a lot of ideas. Today's show, in contrast, was pithy and straight to the point: His overarching concept was to combine unlikely materials such as lace and technical nylon or printed silk and shearling and apply them to clean, ladylike silhouettes.That strategy resulted in a lot of strong looks, in particular the outerwear paneled in tone-on-tone metallic leather and the baroquely gothic tiered dress in gold lace. Aside from the metallic theme, Herchcovitch limited himself—unusually—to a neutral palette, turning out his papery suede and shearling jackets in varying shades of brown, from plumlike to pumpkin-y, and tamping down the gold bling with a simple tan check print. All in all, this was a restrained effort from him, and a solid one.
|
Maya Singer
|
February 13, 2012
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650de08298d8be2178757/master/w_1280,c_limit/00010fullscreen.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2012
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Alexandre Herchcovitch
|
pre-fall-2012
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2012/alexandre-herchcovitch
|
Alexandre Herchcovitch went ladylike last season, so much so that longtime fans may have arched an eyebrow. But though he continued in the well-kempt vein for pre-fall, here there was more of his usual oddity at play. The Brazilian designer mentioned the sixties as an inspiration, with nipped-waist dresses and fitted little coats, but he was also thinking of decoupage. That accounted for collagelike effects, like the patch pockets on those coats, as well as seams that were left raw and slightly raggedy for a Frankenstein effect—one that nicely set off the polished primness of those office-ready gabardines. It felt like a suggestion that under those demure pieces, some wildness beat beneath. And then, to underscore the point, the print on a series of a crinkled-silk tops and dresses: free-floating skulls and bones. Skeletons in the closet, indeed.
|
Matthew Schneier
|
January 4, 2012
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650d608298d8be216f62e/master/w_1280,c_limit/001fullscreen.jpg"
] |
pre-fall
|
2012
|
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] |
||
Alexandre Herchcovitch
|
spring-2012-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2012-ready-to-wear/alexandre-herchcovitch
|
To say that Alexandre Herchcovitch sent out a surprisingly ladylike collection today would be the understatement of the season. His nipped-waist embroidered dresses, bow-bedecked pencil skirts, and natty tops in lamé jacquard were so over-the-top soigné, it had to be some kind of provocation. Surely, there had to be something weird at work to inspire these clothes.Of course, there was. As Herchcovitch explained after the show, the genesis of this collection was his discovery of a trove of fifties-era fabrics at a shop going out of business in his native Brazil. He bought the lot, and used several of the vintage fabrics in the show. But he also developed photo-realist prints for his collection based on those fabrics, re-creating everything from their stitching to their stains. Even from the front row, it was hard to see the difference between the old and the new, especially given that Herchcovitch turned out both materials in looks that were almost identically patterned, and identically embellished.Sometimes there was a bit too much embellishment going on; a few of the pieces utilizing vintage fabrics were so covered in frippery, they came off camp. That may have been Herchcovitch's intention. But other pieces, like color-blocked red and pale yellow pencil dresses in cotton duchesse satin, had a timeless simplicity. And still others exuded the designer's trademark: A red-beaded dress with head scarf attached like a hood turned out to be made not from crinkled chiffon, but exceptionally fine anorak nylon. Meanwhile, the sportiness was self-evident in Herchcovitch's half-head, embroidered baseball hats, which he is producing in a special edition with the cap-maker New Era. The other accessories worthy of note were the sunglasses—round-frame specs that represent Herchcovitch's third collaboration with Mykita.
|
Maya Singer
|
September 11, 2011
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650c908298d8be216269c/master/w_1280,c_limit/00010fullscreen.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2012
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Alexandre Herchcovitch
|
resort-2012
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2012/alexandre-herchcovitch
|
Alexandre Herchcovitch is syncing up with American retailers and getting in on the annual Resort race. His debut vacation collection was much sweeter than what we're used to seeing from the Brazilian designer—if anything, this was a total 180 from his somber Fall lineup. While a high-necked shift with a dainty but sparse floral print and conservative sleeves came across as almost chaste, foxy bustier tops also popped up a few times; and a crepe de chine dress with corsetlike seaming at the bust that appeared to be layered over a sheer black T-shirt was actually just one piece. Other noteworthy looks included silver cropped pants knotted at the natural waistline for a flattering fit and a shrunken jacket with faintly blouson sleeves that paired like a dream with a matching pencil skirt in pearlized, pastel jacquard. All in all, Herchcovitch maybe played it too safe. But these cute and feminine pieces could very well sell better than the maverick designer's more directional ones.
|
Brittany Adams
|
June 7, 2011
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650bb08298d8be2153140/master/w_1280,c_limit/01fullscreen.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2012
|
[
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] |
||
Alexandre Plokhov
|
spring-2016-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/alexandre-plokhov
|
Few and far between are the menswear designers willing and able to transition into the women’s market. In fact it’s a genuinely rare scenario that often builds in reverse, so when ex-Cloak designerAlexandre Plokhovtried his hand at a ladies’ line forFall 2015, trusting devotees welcomed his evolution with open arms. Now that moody, almost all-black debut is hitting stores, the Eve to Plokhov’s Adam has hit her stride for Spring—foregoing the darkly draped tendency of his first outing in favor of a crisp sensuality, where D-ring cinched belts, snap-buttoned patch pockets, and zipped lapels helped shape his utilitarian vision.Having tweaked a cropped tailoring silhouette and developed a wrapped, linear form to his apron dresses and boxy tunics, Plokhov accented this collection with a slew of subtly worked-on fabrics—turning to washed leather, patchwork jersey, polka dots, and a shredded stripe jacquard that felt rich in hand against his flat cotton poplins. The latter material was frayed and box-pleated across shirtsleeves and buttoned A-line skirts, both of which appeared in a sunny shade of citrus yellow in his Paris showroom. Though edited out of these images, that optimistic shade joined the black, navy, and sand color lineup to further shake up the masculine tendencies of Plokhov’s oeuvre, rendering his outsider label all the more relevant in a season rife with gender ambiguity.
|
Dan Thawley
|
October 6, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5612f11e9587583049c73283/master/w_1280,c_limit/alexandre-plokhov-spring-rtw-2016-look-01.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2016
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Alexandre Plokhov
|
spring-2016-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-menswear/alexandre-plokhov
|
Tonight's Alexandre Plokhov show marked the designer's return to the runway after a hiatus of several seasons. Attendees who have been following Plokhov's work since he was heading up Cloak, the brooding menswear label where he made his name, would not have been surprised by the cyber-gothic tone of Plokhov's latest collection, or by the fastidious cut of his clothes, or by the regular references to military regalia. What undoubtedly raised a lot of eyebrows, however, was Plokhov's use of color. Color! Bright, primary colors, like red and yellow! Granted, most of the collection erred on the side of Plokhov's signature neutrals, with lots of looks in white, olive drab, navy, and most of all, black. But the expansion of his palette gave a different charge to the dystopian Plokhov atmosphere.Credit the novelThe Mongoliadfor Plokhov's sudden interest in color: In the book, he explained, clans are marked out by the colors they wear, an idea he translated into monochromatic looks. The fact that the looks were monochromatic made Plokhov's textures come to the fore—his patchwork mesh, for instance, with its disintegrating,wabi-sabiappeal, or the surreal puckered effect of the rib on his woven yellow sweats. Plokhov's aesthetic can come off a touch overbearing, so these grace notes of tactility worked a charm. Ditto the unexpectedly feminine elements here, like the long, nearly-sheer jersey tees that cinched at the sides, or the poncho-shaped tops that opened and closed the show, which were so lightweight and airborne they came to seem ethereal as they floated back and forth along the length of the runway. It was nice to see Plokhov pursuing a dreamy tone, for once, as opposed to putting a lick of polish on a nightmare.
|
Maya Singer
|
July 15, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c653f3c4e6a2d8dcdee866/master/w_1280,c_limit/_AN_4337.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2016
|
menswear
|
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]
] |
|
Alexandre Plokhov
|
fall-2015-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/alexandre-plokhov
|
Alexandre Plokhov dropped off the menswear calendar after Fall '13. He didn't stop designing his namesake label, but the time off the runway and the money it saved him allowed him to try something else he'd been wanting to do for a while: launch a full-fledged womenswear line.Plokhov has dubbed his new offering for Fall Lingua Franca. "It was about finding a common language between men's and women's," he said at his studio earlier this week. Androgyny has become a buzzword for the industry lately—see Alessandro Michele's Gucci men's debut, see Jonathan Anderson's entire menswear oeuvre. Plokhov's clothes aren't unisex, he clarified. There's a lot of overlap in terms of fabrics, and the dark, moody vibe that he's specialized in since the days of his early aughts label Cloak crosses gender lines, but in most cases the silhouettes are distinctly boy or girl.And for a longtime menswear designer, Plokhov has a satisfyingly keen eye for what looks sexy on a woman. Take the shaggy-sleeve, rib-knit dress with the well-placed darts below the bust adding shape to the torso. Or take the low-slung cargo denims with the slouchy rear profile. Those jeans had off-duty model written all over them, but Plokhov has sharp-looking clothes you could wear to work, as well. Blazers came with too-tricky origami detailing at the hem, but a jacket cropped and shrunken like a jean jacket looked edgy and polished in the right proportion, accompanied by a pencil skirt with a soft drape at the waist. His strapless evening dress in humble black wool will likewise resonate with the kind of woman who likes to feel dressed down even when she's dressed up. On the women's side, at least, there's not a lot out there at the moment that looks like what Plokhov does; we expect it will connect with buyers.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 13, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c651d608298d8be228f497/master/w_1280,c_limit/alexandre-plokhov-001-1366.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2015
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Alexandre Plokhov
|
fall-2013-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2013-menswear/alexandre-plokhov
|
Alexandre Plokhov isn't a designer destined to surprise. Season after season, he hones. His dark, broody take on suiting will always be the focal point. This season, he said at a preview at his studio, "I was working with the idea of opposites." That worked itself out in terms of proportions: larger tops, like a bat-winged jacket whose arms flowed arclike into the body, with tight pants in his usual asymmetrical, drop-crotch silhouette; or smaller jackets, their darts stitched on the outside, paired with Japanese tobi pants—essentially balloonlike jodhpurs that end in snugly buttoned cuffs. They'll make a challenging silhouette, even for his most ardent acolytes.The part thatdidoffer a mini shock of the new was the presentation format: Plokhov opted to show the collection on the Digital Fashion Shows Web site. In part, he said, he couldn't resist the allure of being the first menswear designer to break that particular seal. But doing the show in this way also allowed him the opportunity to reteam with the filmmaker Douglas Keeve and to create the kind of ominous atmosphere that the clothes demand. Speaking of honing, here it's possible to do so even in the course of a single collection. There's one chance for each look on the runway, then it's gone. But on video, the sky's the limit. "I like multiple takes," Plokhov said. "We do it until it looks good."
|
Matthew Schneier
|
February 6, 2013
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6510a08298d8be21a70de/master/w_1280,c_limit/APLOKHOV_001_1366.1366x2048.JPG"
] |
fall
|
2013
|
menswear
|
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]
] |
|
Alexandre Plokhov
|
spring-2013-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2013-menswear/alexandre-plokhov
|
Whatever else Alexandre Plokhov may be, he is certainly one of menswear's grand obsessives, wearing his arcane influences on his sleeve at the occasional expense of accessibility, uplift, and plain old appeal. When he invoked a book of daguerreotypes of Russian Orthodox monks as inspiration for his latest collection, there was a moment of apprehension as it seemed like he might be about to plunge us once more into Gothic gloom, but perhaps it's the temper of these turbulent times that allowed Plokhov's self-described "journey from darkness to light" play out like a spring awakening. Sure, it was as solemn as a mass on a mountaintop, but there was elegance, even beauty, in the elongated lines and rigorous cut.The palette was black, gray, and white—coal, ash, and alabaster, he called them—to represent the two divisions of Orthodox clergy: the Monastic (celibates who wear only black) and the Parochial (who wear white and are allowed to marry). The only direct quote from monkish garb was the leather belts, but there is a clerical severity in Plokhov's aesthetic that reads priestly at the best of times, like the most extreme piece here, a kind of maxi-skort—half pant, half kilt—or the long coats that wouldn't look out of place on acuré de champagne. Lining up against that mood was the mutated sportswear: the long, layered tanks or a belted gilet with a racerback.In keeping with the spiritual theme, Plokhov said he'd placed an emphasis on pure fabrics. They were what really made the collection, from the corded cotton of coats and jackets to washed, vegetable-dyed leathers of a surpassing softness to open-weave Irish linen and a finale of homespun white cotton that had a godly gleam. Some tanks in a micro-modal synthetic as soft as cashmere injected a little lightness. Otherwise, the cloths were substantial enough to suggest all-year wear. "There is too much disposability," Plokhov declared. "I want things to last."
|
Tim Blanks
|
September 9, 2012
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650f308298d8be218e714/master/w_1280,c_limit/_MG_0569.900x1350.JPG"
] |
spring
|
2013
|
menswear
|
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] |
|
Alexandre Plokhov
|
fall-2012-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2012-menswear/alexandre-plokhov
|
"It feels nice to do a show where I'm the boss," said Alexandre Plokhov, in an oblique reference to the seasons he spent working on Versace's menswear. Something else that referred back to his time with the iconic Italian label: the absolute rejection of color in his own collection. A gothic darkness ruled. Plokhov called his collection "a stylistic fan letter" to musicians Glenn Danzig and Andrew Eldritch, famously front men of iconic goth bands, but he wouldn't brook connotations of goth for his funereal designs. "I prefer to think of them as heroic," he insisted. He'd picked a very particular tribe of boys to underscore that fact: different ethnicities yet all sharing the same bruised, broken-nosed survivalist look.Plokhov's reservations about goth aside, it's one youth cult that can boast it has kept its doomy integrity intact in the face of time and reason. Likewise, Plokhov's clothes. Unimpeachably true to the intention of their creator but simultaneously in danger of being superfluous to needs. Consider his tip of the cap to Eldritch—"a maniacal, visceral, and complex idea of masculinity"—and decide whether that is something that ticks your boxes, especially when it translated as an elongated apron/tuxedo vest over a floor-length skirt, or an overcoat in a mohair dipped in acid so that it had a matted, oily feel ("like dirty hair," said Plokhov appreciatively).During his Versace period, the designer acquired an appreciation of Italian craftsmanship. His clothes are produced in the Veneto, and there was an agreeable sharpness to the tailoring of several formal jackets. But the collection as a whole was weighed down by its glowering obsessiveness. "Eldritch" was one of horrormeister H. P. Lovecraft's favorite adjectives to describe creeping dread. Lovecraft may not be the best go-to reference for a fashion designer in these troubled times.
|
Tim Blanks
|
February 9, 2012
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650dc08298d8be2176240/master/w_1280,c_limit/00010fullscreen.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2012
|
menswear
|
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] |
|
Alexandre Plokhov
|
spring-2012-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2012-ready-to-wear/alexandre-plokhov
|
In the years since the shuttering of Cloak, his dark, slightly sinister menswear line, Alexandre Plokhov's devotees have been at something of a loss. He put in a few seasons under Donatella Versace at her label's menswear, but Plokhov's own brand of strictured suiting was more or less an eBay find. Good luck seeking out similar elsewhere.The designer launched his namesake line quietly last season with a more mature collection of faintly military suits, outerwear, and accessories. For Spring, he expanded his offerings further. The line now includes abbreviated, short-sleeved blazers and skintight, tapered cargo pants; long, oddly masculine men's skirts; and little matching cadets' hats. "A recruit says good-bye to his girlfriend," Plokhov said of his concept at his presentation today, and you could see the dystopian war the guy was going to wage—circa 2112 or beyond.Plokhov's aesthetic sometimes tends toward the severe, but there's still very little around in the vein of what he offers. The intervening years between Cloak (which shuttered in 2006) and now have burnished both his tailoring skills and his European connections. He's also increased his ambitions. At the request of Barneys, which also hosted his presentation, the designer created his first women's collection, which will, for the season at least, be exclusive to the store. "He's an incredible tailor, and there's a real void in women's tailoring," Daniella Vitale, the store's chief merchant, said, as CEO Mark Lee nodded along. Plokhov gave his womenswear at least as much seamster-ly attention as his menswear, and often more—even he was slightly boggled by the intricacy of a corseted, flaring jacket. But there was softness, too, in simple silk georgette shirtdresses and asymmetrical handkerchief frocks.Plokhov's aesthetic is largely his own, and the collection he showed felt well out of the whirl of trends and fads. There were occasional stumbles, as in a too-complicated plisséd-then-laser-cut dress, but it's hard to imagine that the designer, who is starting strong regardless, won't continue to improve under his new patron's care. In any case, Barneys is voting yes, and voting loud. Today, Plokhov's Fall menswear occupied a full window on 59th Street; come Spring, his women's will hang on five, the floor Rick Owens, Ann Demeulemeester, and Haider Ackermann call home.
|
Matthew Schneier
|
September 11, 2011
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650c908298d8be216267d/master/w_1280,c_limit/00010fullscreen.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2012
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Alexandre Plokhov
|
spring-2012-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2012-menswear/alexandre-plokhov
|
In the years since the shuttering of Cloak, his dark, slightly sinister menswear line, Alexandre Plokhov's devotees have been at something of a loss. He put in a few seasons under Donatella Versace at her label's menswear, but Plokhov's own brand of strictured suiting was more or less an eBay find. Good luck seeking out similar elsewhere.The designer launched his namesake line quietly last season with a more mature collection of faintly military suits, outerwear, and accessories. For Spring, he expanded his offerings further. The line now includes abbreviated, short-sleeved blazers and skintight, tapered cargo pants; long, oddly masculine men's skirts; and little matching cadets' hats. "A recruit says good-bye to his girlfriend," Plokhov said of his concept at his presentation today, and you could see the dystopian war the guy was going to wage—circa 2112 or beyond.Plokhov's aesthetic sometimes tends toward the severe, but there's still very little around in the vein of what he offers. The intervening years between Cloak (which shuttered in 2006) and now have burnished both his tailoring skills and his European connections. He's also increased his ambitions. At the request of Barneys, which also hosted his presentation, the designer created his first women's collection, which will, for the season at least, be exclusive to the store. "He's an incredible tailor, and there's a real void in women's tailoring," Daniella Vitale, the store's chief merchant, said, as CEO Mark Lee nodded along. Plokhov gave his womenswear at least as much seamster-ly attention as his menswear, and often more—even he was slightly boggled by the intricacy of a corseted, flaring jacket. But there was softness, too, in simple silk georgette shirtdresses and asymmetrical handkerchief frocks.Plokhov's aesthetic is largely his own, and the collection he showed felt well out of the whirl of trends and fads. There were occasional stumbles, as in a too-complicated plisséd-then-laser-cut dress, but it's hard to imagine that the designer, who is starting strong regardless, won't continue to improve under his new patron's care. In any case, Barneys is voting yes, and voting loud. Today, Plokhov's Fall menswear occupied a full window on 59th Street; come Spring, his women's will hang on five, the floor Rick Owens, Ann Demeulemeester, and Haider Ackermann call home.
|
Matthew Schneier
|
September 11, 2011
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650ca08298d8be2162ce9/master/w_1280,c_limit/01fullscreen.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2012
|
menswear
|
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] |
|
Alexandre Vauthier
|
spring-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/alexandre-vauthier
|
Back before social media ran the world, Alexandre Vauthier wanted to get into fashion because “I wanted to be part of this bubble, one that lets you dream, but it wasn’t necessarily so accessible,” he said. “You had to work for it.” It rings quaint now, but point well taken: In a time wheneverythinggets served up on a digital silver platter, where does a designer go from there?“If you leave nothing to the imagination, what happens to desire?” Vauthier mused during a showroom visit. Never one to shy away from body-con, he prefers a tad more mystique: “Desire and fantasy are so much more interesting than pornography.” Those twin notions keep him moving forward, he offered.For spring, Vauthier plucked ideas from couture. A print with shots of primary color was lifted right from the sketches on his desk, he said. Sharp-hewn shoulders did all the work on an asymmetrical jersey top; a trench got sliced to crop length; a razor-cut jacket was paired with deep-cuffed denims. A bomber with generous curves channeled an ’80s vibe. Several iterations of jersey jumpsuits displayed a certain radicalness of line, most wearably in classic form but also in a highly photogenic, one-leg batwing number.For evening, metallics ruled. A brocade developed for couture was reimagined in Lurex with a touch of silk; liquid mercury lamé was worked into a nearly weightless party dress; and gold lamé got pleated into a statuesque hourglass number. A bronze lamé top—cropped, pleated, and as sculptural as a shell—was a standout. Also strong were a smattering of pieces not shown here, among them beach-to-dinner sequined summer knits and a little black hourglass dress with a starry backstory: The designer made one like it for Emmanuelle Seigner to wear onstage inBungalow 21, a play about Marilyn Monroe and Arthur Miller and Yves Montand and Simone Signoret in 1960s Hollywood, now running at Théâtre de la Madeleine in Paris. It had the kind of simple beauty Vauthier says he’s always after. That dress and a few other pieces here achieved just that.
|
Tina Isaac-Goizé
|
September 30, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6515df69a565b842f63b5220/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexandre-vauthier-spring-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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|
Alexandre Vauthier
|
fall-2023-couture
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-couture/alexandre-vauthier
|
Alexandre Vauthier charted a different route for couture, ditching the flash of his spring outing in favor of neat shapes grounded in his mastery of cut, replacing boisterous colors with dense shades of black, and ebullient volumes with sharp silhouettes. “I’m not a reductionist, but the state of the world, the noise and the harshness surrounding us is pushing me towards a quest for balance, for grounding my work in its essential foundations,” he said backstage. Tellingly, on the soundtrack Erik Satie and Leonard Cohen took over the cutting-edge techno beats he usually favors.Vauthier revisited his repertoire “looking for sobriety and allure,” he said. He cast models like Karmen Pedaru, Carmen Kass, Élise Crombez, Georgina Grenville, “women who know how to walk,” who embrace their age while still looking breathtakingly beautiful with almost no makeup and hair just pulled back. Stilettos and needle heels were nowhere to be seen: stacked heels grounded the silhouette “in reality,” said Vauthier. “It’s not the time for opulence.” The color scheme hinted at a sort of neutrality, a toned-down, elegant canvas to emphasize individuality.Vauthier is a master tailor and this collection was proof of his ability to get inventive with the tools of couture—cut, construction, execution, savoir faire. While sticking to a slender, elongated silhouette, he played with variations of draping, unusual asymmetries, trains and capes to add sensuality and drama to long fluid dresses, or to tops worn with tight-fitting pants. Sartorial pieces had strong presence but no severity: a velvet pantsuit with satin sharp-edged lapels was cut with “millimetric precision,” he said. With the same rigor the designer approached the tailoring of a men’s suit, introduced here for the first time.Showmanship is ingrained in Vauthier’s fashion genes; there were a number of showstoppers that gave rhythm to the collection, like a black stretchy leotard whose back extended into a billowy cape densely embellished with tiny silver beads. Flashes of bronze and gold lamé, the rich textures of brocades, and the plissé ruffled rosettes exploding from tight-fitted tops worn with finely pleated leggings had high visual impact. No matter the quest for essentiality, Vauthier’s idea of allure is never too far from bold, confident gestures.
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
July 4, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/64a452b8353472860bc0bcd8/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexandre-vauthier-fall-2023-couture-credit-gorunway.JPG"
] |
fall
|
2023
|
couture
|
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] |
|
Alexandre Vauthier
|
fall-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/alexandre-vauthier
|
Taking a noteworthy couture outing and tweaking it for ready-to-wear is pure common sense. What’s surprising with Alexandre Vauthier, however, is how neatly the fall collection echoed the untold orders of magnitude and more expensive numbers shown on the couture runway just five weeks before. In most instances, one would need to be told where the trick is—the clipped-on diamond studs; the cut of a rhodoid sequin; the calibration of a pouf; a bright orange tulle skirt or a sunset-hued iridescent bodice; or a black sequined pant now worked with a knitted base. On the racks, those pieces looked like the originals.Which is probably why Vauthier’s phone pings with requests even during a morning appointment in the middle of PFW: The circus is on, after all. Even so, the designer has reached a point in his life and career where he doesn’t feel the need to step into the ring. “A red carpet should make people dream; it’s not just for amusement,” he said over coffee, turning his phone facedown.Central to the process are relationships forged way back, notably while working with Thierry Mugler. A ready-to-wear version of the dress with the diamond-shaped rhodoid sequins, for example, was still produced in collaboration with Lesage. A pouf might have been in silk and polyester, but the visual impact remained. “What makes fashion modern is taking historic savoir faire and making it into something contemporary,” the designer said. It’s all in the paradox, in other words. Simply tricking out a sweatshirt will never make the grade.That said, Vauthier did push the cursor a bit for fall, filling out a high-octane story of orange, fuchsia, acid yellow, bottle green, and silver with “Prince” purple. (“We had to have a color to bring it all together,” he offered.) A dress laden with crystal chains and flowers didn’t make it to the couture runway but resurfaced here as a ’60s shift and miniskirt. An Art Deco–inspired silver dress with modified batwing sleeves looked like a winner. Faux-casual pieces, like crystal-studded velvet hoodies, embellished jeans, and a tuxedo jacket spliced together with a hoodie—and above all those Grace Jones–inspired hooded numbers—will be catnip to Vauthier’s base. So, too, will a burgeoning line of accessories, from thick diamanté cuffs and clutches to sculptural “crushed” boots in silver leather.
|
Tina Isaac-Goizé
|
March 3, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/64022265068d1267137badf2/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexandre-vauthier-fall-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
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|
Alexandre Vauthier
|
spring-2023-couture
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-couture/alexandre-vauthier
|
At first glance, one might wonder why Alexandre Vauthier put faux furs in his summer couture collection. Those pieces came about because he noticed that clients were talking more and more not of cruises along the French or the Italian Riviera, but of heading north—way north—to steer clear of crowds and experience something new. Those customers still want to wear Vauthier’s hot little minis, but they need something to stay warm, too. The hunt for a suitable material turned up what the designer calls the most convincing, plush faux fur he has ever used, and he worked it in black, acid or bottle green, and hot pink, mounting the fabric upside down for volume, but also for fun.“We’re living at a crossroads which makes for anxious times, so with this collection I wanted to really play and show something very strong, with radical colors,” he offered during a backstage preview. This being the last time Vauthier was showing in a venue he loves—a former state bunker and future record company on the southern fringe of Paris—he wanted to go big.The faux fur was one of several twists in a collection that revisited signatures like razor-sharp tailored jackets or bombers, second-skin pants with quicksilver shine, and ultra-sassy hemlines. The designer put an explosion of hot pink flounces on two black velvet bustier dresses, giving one a modernized version of the pouf skirt, and the other a sensual, almost organic outgrowth of pink lamé. Teal sequins twinkled from hood to matching boots, an homage to Grace Jones. A tuxedo jacket dress was paired with an asymmetrical underskirt of hand-cut mirror-lacquered rhodoid, one of several pieces that put a couture spin on next season’s dominant motif—the diamond—while also breaking with traditional codes. (“I don’t want something officially royal,” he quipped).That thinking applied, too, to more quietly complicated constructions. A lean pair of trousers whose shape echoed the diamond theme via ever-so slightly slouchy, draped hips took 12 tries to get right. Extra-large puffed sleeves are, in fact, gloves. A black sequined bomber, shown short on the runway, can be loosened, unsnapped in the back, and worn long.Vauthier believes that couture should be “contemporary and forward-looking.” With this collection, his growing base is spoiled for choice.
|
Tina Isaac-Goizé
|
January 25, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/63d029e52ed1b4df1a4ecd1f/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexandre-vauthier-spring-2023-couture-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2023
|
couture
|
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] |
|
Alexandre Vauthier
|
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/alexandre-vauthier
|
Among the things that make Alexandre Vauthier’s ready-to-wear compelling is that he harvests his couture collections to make it. A self-described agoraphobic, he’d rather wonk out in his studio over, say, how to nudge hand-cut “porcupine” sequins toward a ready-to-wear proposition for his clients to paint the town, than tag along himself. (“My cursor has moved,” the designer quipped.)Nights at Le Palace may be stardust now, but come spring Vauthier’s ladies will be painting the town in lashings of sequins or flashy, faded “liquid” denim, a new extrapolation of his embroidered pieces for couture. Primary colors—Klein blue, magenta, yellow—and their derivations, like emerald or purple, also took pride of place in a very ’80s register, shot here by Hans Feurer. “I wanted to feel sun, freshness, and make it a light summer,” Vauthier offered.Not that he took the ’80s too literally. “When you look at what’s happening in the street, it’s one big mashup,” the designer pointed out. “It’s like we’re synthesizing everything that we knew from before, before jumping into something new.” Vauthier described this season’s muse as “A girl of her generation, almost boyish, but who embodies femininity in all its power: beautiful, strong, and going places.”To get there, she might throw on one of the designer’s signature tailored jackets, a slouch-shouldered belted trench, and a T-shirt or a hoodie with structured shoulders and Vauthier’s Paris zip code. Or she could opt for something from a capsule of 10 semi-couture pieces, like an electric blue slip dress with a dozen or so gradient-sized sequins that cascade from the bust in ascending order. Draped jersey is Vauthier’s home base, and here it ran the spectrum from silver to black, perhaps cinched with a cowboy belt. Digital prints, too, made an appearance, in acid yellow flowers on a pleated black skirt. A few numbers in gold leaf-covered leather looked like solid investment pieces for the ages.Accessories-wise, Vauthier revisited the bucket bag, a shape he considers “super luxury, sophisticated but practical.” An Italian factory with mega-brand cred agreed to produce four sizes of a bag whose kidney-bean shape is designed to embrace the body’s natural curve (there were also silver and gold mini-crossbodies for evening.) Those were embellished with strass-set chains or gold charms like an “Alex boot”—the stiletto style that’s catnip to Vauthier’s base. Speaking of footwear, the pant-boot shape the designer introduced five years back returned with added flourishes like a trompe l’oeil wrap detail that elongates to infinity and beyond.Office appropriate? Not exactly, but the collection was more about living life to the fullest, Vauthier mused. “Things aren’t as carefree as before, which is anxiety-inducing,” he said. The way he sees it, a designer’s role is either to translate what’s happening out there in the world or to remind people of “the beauty of things; to make them want to embrace life.” Vauthier is squarely in the latter camp.“I choose to see the glass as half-full,” he said. “I need to dream, to impress, to immerse myself in work and beauty.” For lack of a crystal ball, we might as well dress to the nines and make the most of it.
|
Tina Isaac-Goizé
|
September 30, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6336b81d4d47bc35bd501114/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexandre-vauthier-spring-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Alexandre Vauthier
|
fall-2022-couture
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-couture/alexandre-vauthier
|
Alexandre Vauthier likes his design to be exact—and spectacular. For him, sharp tailoring and provocative slink are two faces of the same coin, as they are in the best Frenchcouturetradition of Jean Paul Gaultier and the late Manfred Thierry Mugler. Not surprisingly, Vauthier worked for both of those geniuses, and in his style there’s a definite echo of their penchants for the cerebral as well as for the sexual, for the constrictive as well as for indulgent excess.Talking about excess, couture brings out the haute showman in Vauthier, his flair for showstopper pieces matched only by his incredible technicalmaîtrise. “It’s the Covid-19 paradox,” he joked backstage before the show. “There’s been a shortage of everything, so we had to come up with the most crazily inventive technical solutions to make the best out of the situation.” For one, his atelier handmade a version of thin, shiny feather-like rhodoïd fringes, which covered a see-through blackfourreau,capturing the light and giving off a nocturnal bird-of-paradise vibe. A sort of clubbing Papageno, so to speak.Vauthier gave the collection a rather seductive syncopated rhythm, playing over-the-top showstoppers shimmering with metallic silver sequins against strong suits of the strong oversized variety. “I wanted something extremely radical, very clean,électrique,” he offered, “something unilateral in its vocabulary.” Cue the reduced palette of stark black, a twisted-bourgeois shade of beige, a few shots of Yves Klein blue, and glimmers of silver, which let his mastery of cut and draping do the talking. The silhouettes alternated between sleek, slinky, and body-con, with revealing drapings stopping short of being overtly provocative, alongside trapeze or fluted asymmetrical shapes. Plays of frothy feathers and loose plissé panels added a further sensuous note to the already rather hot mix.What anchored the collection were the boot/pant hybrids; worn with almost everytenue, that had a sort of illusory effect, as it was hard to determine if they were just slouchy boots or actually “pants crashing onto a shoe,” as the designer described them. Either way, they gave the looks an extra-dose of French cool, the ineffable vibe that Vauthier seems to have mastered.
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
July 5, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/62c48245bbc911709747902a/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexandre-vauthier-fall-2022-couture-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2022
|
couture
|
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|
Alexandre Vauthier
|
fall-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/alexandre-vauthier
|
As a follow-up to an “idea lab” of a couture show, Alexandre Vauthier said he was looking to shake things up a bit. He meant the clothes, of course, but he was also talking about his own vocabulary and process. “I wanted to stay with something chic but softer,” the designer said during a showroom preview. “I wanted to take things down a notch. We all need something a little gentler and sweeter,” he offered, drawing a parallel with the current trend for splashing out on pastries.In that spirit, Vauthier found ways of distilling his couture ideas, paring away feathers and flounces into ready-to-wear iterations with a similar allure. A long, one-sleeve white bias-cut satin dress from the couture runway was reincarnated, for example, in a different construction in jersey and viscose, which had the added advantage of being wrinkle resistant and therefore travel friendly. Another dress in red jersey covered in micro crystals, worn here by Karen Elson in look 6, followed the same logic. Embellished couture numbers, like a hand-colored gown embroidered by Lesage, found a fresh iteration in gradient red and black.Vauthier’s other passion, tailoring—a craft honed with Mugler and Jean Paul Gaultier—appeared in ample trousers paired with a cinched jacket, in red velvet or black or white flannel for day, perhaps with a jeweled lapel. A solid lineup of leopard-print pieces ran the gamut from an ethereal dress and a trench to sweaters, as well as jeans in soft flocked denim. Other separates included Fair Isle sweaters with tonal strass or a standout velvet knit sweater with the season’s leg-of-mutton sleeves. (The feathers returned on an off-the-shoulder version in the same material.)“I want to hold on to the magic of the impalpable,” the designer said of his new techniques. “Even if we live at the center of luxury and sophistication, women work, and they are in the middle of it all. You can’t forget the product.”
|
Tina Isaac-Goizé
|
March 4, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/62212fdd185799fd4f1ce57e/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexandre-vauthier-fall-2022-ready-to-wear-paris-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2022
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Alexandre Vauthier
|
spring-2022-couture
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-couture/alexandre-vauthier
|
With a bit of luck—and lots of talent and hard work—there are shows in a designer's career where the excitement in the room just crystalizes. It’s less about one particular look than a general bubbling up. Which is what happened at Alexandre Vauthier on Tuesday.The designer used much of the past 24 months to think through what history tells us about fashion in a time of post-crisis. “What I found was that there’s always a resurgence of energy, with different cultural cross-currents, an evolution in musical tastes, and a desire for even more extreme kinds of diversion,” he said during an interview backstage. “Fashion is above all sociological, beyond the individual expressions of a designer. It’s a re-transcription of a social and geographical context through the designer’s eyes. It’s the synthesis, how you filter what you see and hear, that makes fashion interesting.”After mulling it over, he decided to go all-out and explore new directions, channeling the decadent opulence of the Années Folles while playing with new cuts and proportions that, intentionally or not, appeared to nod to formative years spent in the studio with Thierry Mugler, who passed away earlier this week.One major new development was working on the bias which, surprisingly, the designer had not often tackled before. Art Deco by way of Vauthier was “de-feminized and modernized” with boots. One standout was a silver slip dress made of tulle embroidered with hundreds of gradient shapes in mirror-finish rhodoid, an intricate piece that took thousands of hours to produce. Also compelling were Vauthier’s takes on the New Look by way of the 1980s. A strong-shouldered, draped peplum jacket paired with ample—even slouchy—trousers. An hourglass jacket paired with a tiny miniskirt was another look that channeled the heyday of power dressing.Vauthier is also an ace of slink, and there were plenty of barely-there numbers that similarly clad front row fans will love. But there were also pieces that will appeal to clients who like their sass with more coverage (a leopard print suit comes to mind).“I knew it was going to be complicated to do, but I wanted something new,” Vauthier said post-show. “If a small independent house like mine can send certain signals, that just might mark a new beginning. We've got to shake off the past two years.”
|
Tina Isaac-Goizé
|
January 26, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/61f040c2208d31e19ed4a0a8/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Alexandre-Vauthier-Couture-Spring-22-Paris-credit-Alessandro-Lucioni-Gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2022
|
couture
|
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] |
|
Alexandre Vauthier
|
spring-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-ready-to-wear/alexandre-vauthier
|
Alexandre Vauthier knew something was up recently when sales of his shoes spiked—in three successive waves. “We sense that shoppers are back,” he said during a recent showroom visit. “A residual effect of COVID is that they don’t seem to want to hold back anymore.”To that point, a showpiece of a handmade coat—embroidered in ostrich and marabou feathers by Lemarié—was a party in its own right, an explosion of black, white, and the season’s jewel-tone blue, green, and fuchsia. Although not immediately apparent to the casual onlooker, it was mounted on a structure of crystal-studded bands. “I wanted it to be a synthesis of the collection—but also have it feel protective, like a giant pillow,” Vauthier offered.The price for that piece will probably land in the solid five-figures, but there were plenty of other options for more restrained tastes and budgets. True to his classic training—the designer got his start in Thierry Mugler’s studio— Vauthier presented a lineup of investment pieces like a meticulously sculpted hourglass jacket in black or tennis stripes to pair with easy, fluid trousers, and soft trenches with sharp lines in black, white, or beige. In a nod to one of the season’s key trends, a bandana print cropped up on tailored dresses, shirts, and skirts.The designer noted that the spring collection was “intense in terms of work, but straightforward,” creatively speaking. The same can be said of an ensemble in pleated jersey, which was new territory for him and neatly mixed couture techniques with comfort dressing. Another departure: chunkier knit tops that added raw texture and a sense of haute bohemian comfort to the lineup.But Vauthier is known and loved by many, including the likes of Beyoncé, Miley, and Rihanna for his showstopping party looks. At first glance, a dance-til-you-drop jersey dress covered in blue-tinged crystals might appear like a little nothing, but it is cleverly engineered like a poncho with a bodysuit inside (“otherwise you might as well throw on a tablecloth,” Vauthier quipped).Scanty though some items might appear on the hanger, Vauthier said he made a point of taking all kinds of morphologies, countries, and types of women into account in his proportions. Among the contenders in the inclusiveness category: a white jersey day dress, a belted dress made of T-shirt cotton, and a black dress in stretch knit with a handkerchief hem. A handful of fringed numbers anchored by macramé, a strapless party dress in black sequins trimmed with ostrich feathers, and a handful of deceptively simple “beach dresses” for evening all looked ready for their close-up.
|
Tina Isaac-Goizé
|
October 2, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/61574c0ee9d92109e381b007/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Alexandre-Vauthier-Spring-22-RTW-Paris-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2022
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Alexandre Vauthier
|
fall-2021-couture
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-couture/alexandre-vauthier
|
Reviewing a couture collection via Zoom is as frustrating as looking at a succulentplateau d’huîtreswhile on a fasting regime. No matter how effective your wireless connection, the sublime handwork and savoir faire of the métier gets mostly lost in translation. “I’ve worked the collection focusing on the most amazing couture techniques,” said Alexandre Vauthier, trying his best to show this reviewer close-ups of his sexy all-black concoctions. But WiFi frustrations aside, Vauthier’s ebullience made this Zoom meeting as entertaining as any IRL showroom visit.Zinging back and forth across his showroom, he said, “The collection being monochrome is aparti pris, black is an excessively Parisian code. It’s also a sort of a metaphor of a clean slate from where to start anew after all we’ve been through.” Like Champagne and oysters, Diamonds and Black (as the collection was called) are amariagemade in heaven. Vauthier sprinkled his nocturnal numbers with crystal sparkle “like a night with a sky full of stars.”Paris via Nevada was the jazzy turn he took this season, giving the proceedings a sort of Folies Bergère–Las Vegas vibe punctuated by dramatic crystal fringed and feathered ponchos, Lesage-embroidered black leather perfectos worn over sequined bodysuits, and see-through pleated chiffon capes veiling crystal-embellished bikinis. A black-feathered, punky head-to-toe headdress fit for Le Lido was worn with a sweetheart-neckline, barely-there leather minidress, fringed with the help of Lemarié, while a heart-shaped feathered fluff of a dress was accessorized by a see-through plumetis catsuit and a pair of cowboy boots treated to couture therapy, studded and embellished with abundant crystal intricacies.Vauthier is a master tailor and has a trained eye for balancing dramatic excess with sophisticated restraint— a very Parisian attitude indeed, honed during his days at Thierry Mugler and Jean Paul Gaultier. He introduced a few sharp-tailored options to offset the collection’s exuberance, among them a nonchalant three-piece tennis-striped suit with high-waisted wide trousers and a belted trench coat with an undulating storm flap. Impeccably made as they were, they nevertheless exuded the sexyje ne sais quoithat is a Vauthier signature. As he said: “French couture is all about the allure.”
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
July 6, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/60e41012d1355766dbcba01e/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Alexandre-Vauthier-Couture-Fall-21-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2021
|
couture
|
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] |
|
Alexis Mabille
|
spring-2025-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/alexis-mabille
|
For several seasons now, Alexis Mabille has kept his most lavish creative displays for couture week, preferring instead to show an evening capsule collection during the Paris ready-to-wear shows. With his signature silhouettes and shapes, and his seasonal twists on color and couture-style embellishments, it’s his way of reminding his younger fans that he’s got them covered. This collection is more relaxed than couture, the designer points out, plus these dresses are designed to travel easily wherever his ladies are headed.“Reworking the essentials” is how Mabille described this lineup of 17 dresses, which can be made long or short—and in other colors and materials, for that matter. This season’s theme was spring dew, in sunrise hues of blue, lilac, or the shimmering pink that one might find in a Monet painting.Among Mabille’s signatures—the shirtdress (in taffeta), the bow dress (in silk piqué), a voluminous number inspired by a 19th-century painter’s blouse (also in silk piqué, with Lyon lace)—there was also an evening trench in sparkly silver blue lamé satin with jeweled buttons that reprised the one shown in his fall couture show at the Lido. That one, in fact, was an iteration of a piece Mabille originally designed for his men’s collection, back when he was doing six shows a year.Elsewhere, the designer relied on cut to supply movement, for example on a T-shirt dress with a ribbon belt, or a halter dress in forget-me-not blue georgette striped with micro-sequins. The fluted sleeves that look like lace in these photos are actually cord embroidery on crin, produced by artisans the designer coaxed out of retirement to teach this technique to a new generation. Lace may be one of the trickier materials to treat with a modern touch these days, but Mabille will always be up to the challenge. “I love it,” he said. “I treat it like a second skin, and then add things to it.”
|
Tina Isaac-Goizé
|
September 25, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/66f14e78a81ff5a9bcaa2317/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexis-mabille-spring-2025-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2025
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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|
Alexis Mabille
|
fall-2024-couture
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-couture/alexis-mabille
|
Alexis Mabille’s couture collection was champagne all the way—in the afternoon, in a bubble bath, and “like Marilyn,” as a section of the soundtrack went. In a piece of meta-theater, the designer staged his outing at the Lido—the iconic Paris venuehe also recently redesigned—making him the first designer to show there and giving him ample room for showmanship. Clients turned up dressed to the nines and every guest had a front row seat for a spectacle complete with a surprise finale by Dita von Teese, swirling all but naked in a martini glass.Logically enough, “Champagne” was the name Mabille chose for a collection high on embellishment, shine and fun. “We weren’t going to give into the ambient morosity,” the designer said backstage before the lights went up on a stage famed for a hydraulic floor fitted with waterworks. “We wanted to be playful and powerful, like when you throw an ice cube into a glass of champagne—it foams, it’s pretty, it’s dazzling, and it’s exciting.”Mabille gamely played on different kinds of personality, moving from the easy swing of a shimmering sky-blue coatdress to an improbable sweep of feathers arced high above the shoulders on a leopard-print sequined gown. A towering, feathered panther headpiece was rustled up from the archives and paired with a black velvet sheath showered in silver sequins. A black “fountain” dress with a plunging neckline, in black jersey with mosaic embroidery, was inspired by the ones freshly reinstated in this Paris landmark.Amid those statements were familiar shapes, like shirt dresses or a cardigan now fully embroidered in silver sequins and trimmed with ivory crepe and jeweled buttons. Not everything convinced: feats of corsetry aside, some of the billowing flourishes—a monumental black bow on one shoulder, for example—felt a bit out there for real life; the occasional pointed peel-down shoulders skewed a tad Malificent. But it was all in good fun. Mabille likes dressing confident characters, and there were plenty of options here to keep those women happy, on or off the red carpet. It was as strong a showing as the designer has made in recent memory, and as effervescent as the buckets of bubbly served at every table.
|
Tina Isaac-Goizé
|
June 26, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/667adc7c33b55e7c07230749/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexis-mabille-fall-2024-couture-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2024
|
couture
|
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] |
|
Alexis Mabille
|
fall-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-ready-to-wear/alexis-mabille
|
By calling his fall collection “Society,” Alexis Mabille said he was giving a nod to today’s café society, one that travels the world constantly and might at any minute be confronted with an invitation to a gala or last-minute charity benefit. That customer needs a dress in her back pocket, so to speak, which is where Mabille’s evening capsule comes in.Picking up on details from certain couture numbers, the designer here presented eveningwear that he described as sartorial BFFs, for example a gown in double-faced stretch satin that’s “more sportswear, even if it’s not sportswear at all.” The idea, he said, is to bring a little freshness and spontaneity to dressing up. In lieu of pre-intensive corsetry, for example, he finds it more modern to use luxe materials like radzimir, silk piqué or satin for easygoing one-and-dones, like his signature shirtdresses, a little black A-line dress fastened simply with two ties in the back, or a simple evening sheath with an asymmetrical neckline, in black crêpe.The lineup included some new additions to Mabille’s usual palette, for example a strapless sheath dress with a draped décolleté in a rich, warm shade of brick, which he also used for a long shirtdress with diamanté buttons that might be worn either belted or open, like an evening coat. Another twist was his use of passementerie, for example as a choker that somehow managed to skew couture and tattoo at the same time. That little accessory was done by the same atelier that used to work with Yves Saint Laurent in the 1980s, the designer explained. He also worked with them to create a belt informed by the frogging that was all the rage in Napoleon’s time. That Mabille, with his arsenal of culture, keeps finding ways to keep such crafts relevant—and in an increasingly crowded field—puts him in a class of his own.
|
Tina Isaac-Goizé
|
March 2, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/65e0d39946e3e304170a71ef/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexis-mabille-fall-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Alexis Mabille
|
spring-2024-couture
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-couture/alexis-mabille
|
Most of the time, getting dressed is the culmination of a private interaction between a woman and her mirror. That ritual of self-care—and, one hopes, of self-love—is what Alexis Mabille said he wanted to capture with his new couture collection.Mirror, Mirror, as he named the show, was a reflection not only on what to actually wear, but the intimacy of the act of putting on makeup: choosing this or that blush, applying a sweep of eyeliner or lip color, defining both individual features and a mood of the day. The concept is universal, but the details vary infinitely depending on the person and place. Mabille addressed the theme specifically on two satin jersey sheaths, one featuring a Marilyn mouth and the other with a Cleopatra eye, but overall he evoked a spectrum of possibilities with a soft touch because, after all, summer is about lightness.The show opened with pearly, powdery hues of white, ivory, porcelain, and blush, moving toward deeper tones of nude as the show progressed. In addition to addressing diverse complexions, the designer aimed to incorporate various body types, illustrating his range with, on one hand, the transparency of lace, which looked fresh on a bralette and skirt ensemble, and, on the other, womanly styles that would suit most bodies on any occasion. Familiar signatures reprised here included a bustier gown in rice-powder silk piqué and a smattering of shirt dresses, for example in chocolate casimir or with batwing sleeves. Being well-versed in Hollywood glamour, he also offered up a few befeathered ideas, notably a silk crêpe peignoir style in a stunning (and universally flattering) shade of dark gold.Though the show cast a wide net, it was also one of Mabille's strongest outings in recent seasons. Backstage, the designer declined to play favorites. “I’d like to wear them all if I were a woman,” he quipped. The designer has a loyal base of clients; whatever their color, age, or shape, they will find things they’d like to wear here, too.
|
Tina Isaac-Goizé
|
January 25, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/65b01d84e3097d693bbcd5e5/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexis-mabille-spring-2024-couture-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2024
|
couture
|
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] |
|
Alexis Mabille
|
spring-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/alexis-mabille
|
Alexis Mabille presented a capsule of eveningwear in a mirrored gallery in a Paris passage. Set up as an intimate salon de couture, it was a charming frame for the designer’s robes de soirée. Called Evening Essentials, it was a concise occasion wardrobe that Mabille’s high-flying, party-loving clientele will surely love.“It keeps an ésprit couture, but it has the ease and sleek of prêt-à-porter,” he said. Mabille is a designer with a natural understanding of French chic, which he treats with both respect and a sense of humor. Here, he softened the formality of couture eveningwear with a modern, uncomplicated twist that will appeal to his younger fans. Pieces looked elegant but effortless and versatile at the same time: a billowy chemise dress in pale pink taffeta had an ample back (à la Watteau). It looked both entrance-making and comfortable, and it could also be worn as an opera coat. On the same note, an emerald-green caftan in matte and shiny liquid satin could be cinched at the waist with a sash or worn loose, flattering different body types.Other more form-fitting options, such as a slip dress in red chantilly lace or a sinuous dusty pink number worn under a matching embroidered bolero, had an ease about them which didn’t detract from their “va-va-voom effect,” as Mabille called it. While he likes a bit of drama, there was nothing flashy or overtly bodycon in the collection—a rather décontracté way of approaching eveningwear. Plays of bows, trompe-l’oeils and plissé details introduced a bit of frivolity. Yet in Mabille’s world, the French flair for flirtatiousness goes hand in hand with easy, nonchalant chic.
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
September 29, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/65169b81f85b53ce25b74682/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001%E2%80%94alexis-mabille-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
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|
Alexis Mabille
|
fall-2023-couture
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-couture/alexis-mabille
|
Alexis Mabille called his couture collection “Mondaines,” a French word for charming social butterflies with a penchant for high-flying lifestyles, and for the flirty nocturnal activities that go with it. It can be loosely translated into “socialites,” but the French give the word a slightly naughtier undertone.Nan Kempner, Bianca Jagger, Nico were the “Divine Mondaines” Mabille referenced—women coming from rather differentmilieuxsharing “a similar sense of style and charisma, a zest for lifetrès naturel, much like my friends or my clients do. This collection is rooted in real life,” he said backstage.The défilé was held at Christie’s headquarters, whose white-walled rooms felt like a modern rendition of a classic salon de couture—a format a few designers are going back to this season. It nicely framed a collection that pivoted on the slender silhouettes of today, très à la mode. Mabille dug into his archives and dusted off his repertoire of masculine tuxedos, updated here in cropped hourglassy versions; the volumes of hisrobes papillonwere far less billowy than usual; the flou construction of draped chiffon dresses was reinterpreted with toned-down flamboyance and a neat approach. A standout in this direction was a series of elongated column dresses in black crêpe cut close to the body, with plays of asymmetries revealing bare legs or framing the neckline for sensuality. Sparingly embellished, their lithe, svelte allure felt right for today.
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
July 4, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/64a4269806ac0df427c1cc1b/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexis-mabille-fall-2023-couture-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2023
|
couture
|
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] |
|
Alexis Mabille
|
fall-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/alexis-mabille
|
Just a few weeks ago, Alexis Mabille sent out a rainbow of a couture show that pretty much had something for every taste and type. For fall he distilled that concept into about 20 looks that nodded to couture inspirations, colors and cuts, but were made for a clientele that doesn’t necessarily have the budget—never mind the patience with fittings—to shop that way.“Whenever I compose a couture collection, I always set some ideas aside for ready-to-wear,” the designer explained. At first, he envisioned every look here as if it were white, picturing “rainbow drops” in his mind’s eye to fill out the color story. “Some styles might appear classic in one color, but when you make it fluorescent yellow it becomes something else entirely,” Mabille said. “Color is like therapy for me, and I wanted to use it for winter because, when you think about it, color doesn’t belong to the seasons.”Evening, for example, is no longer about donning discreet dark hues. It might be about apple green. And it’s definitely not about diamonds and perfect coifs, at least for the younger set, which prefers galaxy hair, chunky footwear, and night-by-day. Working with that ambivalence, and by extension a whole array of women and shapes such as “cloud” dresses in coral satin organza, is where Mabille currently finds the most joy. That’s because focusing on movement lets him forget about silhouette and focus instead on “exploding volumes” and playing with cuts. To wit, a fluorescent yellow number made from 18 meters of silk was the designer’s tribute to Pina Bausch. “You could kick your heels to the sky and there would still be this cascade of yellow. It’s self-accepting and fun,” he said.
|
Tina Isaac-Goizé
|
March 2, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/64007af2f9eb0536c2ef6c6e/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexis-mabille-fall-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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|
Alexis Mabille
|
spring-2023-couture
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-couture/alexis-mabille
|
Anyone even passingly familiar with Alexis Mabille’s work—be it fashion or the interiors he’s dreamed up for chic watering holes from Paris to LA—knows that he’s obsessed with dramatic colors. One of his latest projects, redoing the legendary Lido cabaret on the Champs-Elysées, has plunged him straight into the glamour, sparkle ,and history of that celebrated spot, so it’s perhaps not surprising that with this couture collection the designer just went ahead and embraced a rainbow.“It’s like a therapy, a symbol of freedom, happiness, and playfulness,” Mabille said backstage before the show. He even threw in some period references for fun. Though the collection’s title, Color Addict, speaks for itself; Felix da Housecat’s “Money, Success, Fame, Glamour” drove the point home.The designer said he wanted to open with gold half-tones because they can work as well by day as by night. A long beige-gold mesh dress with an asymmetrical neckline, tonal embroidered belt, and a dramatic drape from hem up to shoulder was followed by a draped sheath in burnished lamé whose midsection was hand-embroidered with the profiles of two lovers. That was an homage to the artist, illustrator, and costume and set designer Erté, who drew Lido dancers in his day and worked on theater productions there. Elsewhere, a quasi-cosmic homage to the artist Jean Lurçat appeared as a sequined bodice on a one-shouldered dress in Danube blue crepe, and later on a fuchsia bustier dress-slash-cape, flourishes the designer called “a bit rock and roll.”To close the show, a backless sheath in embroidered organza seemed to bring all these clothes of many colors together like a kaleidoscope. Mabille lights up when he describes “painting all different types of women” (and he loves them all!) or striving to express the texture of color through design. That’s why—to his credit—he kept most of these silhouettes simpler than he has in the past. And that’s also why, no matter a client’s shape or favorite kind of silhouette—tailored, flou, long, short, deconstructed, fluid, draped, pleated, “high drama,” nearly naked—there’s something here that will speak to her.
|
Tina Isaac-Goizé
|
January 24, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/63cff2e34aff806c367d0643/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexis-mabille-spring-2023-couture-credit-gorunway.JPG"
] |
spring
|
2023
|
couture
|
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] |
|
Alexis Mabille
|
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/alexis-mabille
|
Drawing on couture to create a ready-to-wear capsule whose colors, lengths, and flourishes can be adapted on request has proved a winning strategy for Alexis Mabille. And since he’s had to turn down clients unwilling to wait for couture pieces, doing things this way gives everyone a luxurious plan B.For spring, he focused on nineteen evening looks that would be “like a cool and effortless wardrobe, with a relaxed, younger twist,” he explained, standing amid the mannequins in his boutique-showroom-atelier in the Galerie Vivienne. With clients — particularly younger ones — going all-out to dress up in London, New York, and beyond, he wants to make sure they can do it with the same ease as throwing on a t-shirt (even if that t-shirt is in fact, a body-con dress). To that end, a couple of long dresses in merino jersey were fancied up with lace or floral brocade.Lace also took a place of pride, for example, on a white ottoman blouse with a yoke of Lyon lace sourced, poignantly, from a heritage supplier that floundered during the pandemic. It was paired with a long, wrap skirt in matte gold lamé and a sequined belt. An otherwise minimalist white bustier dress with a lace-trimmed ruffled neckline and hem might suit a bohemian-lite bride, and an aquamarine crepe t-shirt dress encrusted with lace from knee to floor nodded to the current trend for transparent skirts without giving anything away.Tried-and-true silhouettes also returned in an array of deep copper hues. Among these were a lamé shirt dress cinched with a satin belt, a long bustier dress in chestnut crepe with the designer’s signature bow as sleeves, and a kimono dress. Hardly groundbreaking, but then again that’s not what Mabille’s base is after.
|
Tina Isaac-Goizé
|
October 5, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/633432ba509b719a3b973dbd/master/w_1280,c_limit/00002-alexis-mabille-spring-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Alexis Mabille
|
fall-2022-couture
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-couture/alexis-mabille
|
The French use an interesting expression—s’assumer—to describe the attitude of taking responsibility and being unapologetic about the choices one makes. “Do you think I’m a diva? Then okay, I’m a diva!” enthused Alexis Mabille, reprising Aretha Franklin’s quote as the headline of his couture collection. “In life it’s just a matter ofs’assumer!” he remarked.Diva par excellence Dita Von Teese graced the front row, applauding Mabille’s creations, which spanned a rather varied repertoire. “I didn’t want the collection to be coherent but embracing many different directions, like on a red carpet,” he mused. Actually, incoherence was in no shortage, but, as Mabille underlined, it wasassumé.The designer touched on many couture archetypes:robe bulleswith short taffeta shifts were enveloped in round-shaped capes attached to the hem as cocoons; sinuous strapless numbersà la femme fleurin luscious velvet had satin petals sprouting from the décolletage; glamourous caftans in densecrêpe marocainsported fluid plays on draping. Asmokingmade an inevitabile appearance, obviously worn sans trousers on bare legs, a big bow on the shoulder trailing all the way to the floor. And a couture version of the masculine white shirt was cut generously in billowy gazar and given a sexy twist paired with straight-leg pants in see-through black lace.Silhouettes and volumes were as individual as the characters Mabille wanted to portray, running the gamut from the tight fitting to the prodigious, from tailored toflou, from lingerie to sport. “Divas are capricious creatures,” he said. “It’s part of their charm. If a woman feels like being capricious, so what?Il faut s’assumer.”
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
July 5, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/62c445ce4dddc1f908dda5af/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexis-mabille-fall-2022-couture-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2022
|
couture
|
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] |
|
Alice Roi
|
fall-2007-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2007-ready-to-wear/alice-roi
|
For fall, Alice Roi cited the spunky children's-book heroine Madeline as her inspiration, but the schoolgirl who walked the runway was a darker version of the original 1930s merry mischief-maker. Show notes referred to such mental and physical misfortunes as "broken thoughts," night sweats, fractures, and sutures. Translation: A mix of the innocent (a toggle coat, Peter Pan collars, a shimmering floral brocade dress) and the subversive (bat-print silk tees, asymmetrically draped skirts, racy, second-skin knit minidresses). From all this, what will Roi's customer find to wear? Not the clunky wool layered skirts and yeti-like mohair pieces, which might in fact induce night sweats. More covetable were the windowpane trousers and a perfect, fluid, black silk dress with a metallic-trimmed ruffled flourish.
|
Joanna Rodger
|
February 2, 2007
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6517608298d8be2221229/master/w_1280,c_limit/00010m.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2007
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Alice Roi
|
spring-2007-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2007-ready-to-wear/alice-roi
|
The starting point for Alice Roi's spring collection wasLa Petite Voleuse(The Little Thief), a coming-of-age film directed by François Truffaut and starring Charlotte Gainsbourg. That movie was released in 1988, and the show's soundtrack (Black Flag, Smashing Pumpkins, Cake) and boxy, flared-shouldered silhouettes also referenced the late eighties/early nineties, a time when fashion was more bold than frilly. In other words, there was less emphasis than usual on the girly prettiness Roi fans have come to know. Familiar ruffle-sleeved blouses and pinafore-style dresses played supporting roles to tougher zip-front jumpers and skinny-legged pants, and one notable pair of bleached jeans. The resulting mix wasn't always on target. Roi described the collection as being a battle between "pretty, girly and more conceptual clothes, between hard and soft," but it's not hard to see where her heart lies. The pieces that stood out gently filtered prep looks through an eighties filter: a tee dress with a collegiate cardigan, a slouch jacket, a jumper over a blouse—all nick-able Roi staples.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
September 8, 2006
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6517008298d8be221a06c/master/w_1280,c_limit/00010m.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2007
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Alice Roi
|
fall-2006-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2006-ready-to-wear/alice-roi
|
Cue the Violent Femmes, PiL, and the Misfits. Alice Roi is turning 30—that's practically middle-aged in this business of 14-year-old models andProject Runwayenfants terribles. And so she revisited the New York City of her youth with black lipstick, broken-down mary janes, and prep-school uniforms twisted to get past the bouncers on St. Marks. Yes, there were pinafore dresses and boiled-wool vests and wrap skirts, but they were offset with knit sweaters and leggings that looked like they'd been through the washing machine a few times. Party frocks, meanwhile, came punked up with patent leather accents. But if they were worn underneath one of her smart houndstooth coats, Mom and Dad would never be the wiser.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 3, 2006
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6516908298d8be22113a1/master/w_1280,c_limit/02m.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2006
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Alice Roi
|
spring-2003-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2003-ready-to-wear/alice-roi
|
As much as she’s a groovy downtown hipster, Alice Roi is entranced by the Watergate-era wasp wardrobe, with its proper proportions, clean lines and sporty allusions—somewhere between Tippi Hedren inThe Birdsand Sigourney Weaver inThe Ice Storm.Roi’s spring collection succeeded in bringing that demure esthetic firmly up to date. Her well-edited show included some brisk dresses and suits in low-key colors—grey, white, houndstooth check—cut from stiff fabrics that stood away from the body (a refreshing change in a week when most garments couldn’t get close enough to the female form). She showed sweetly sexy crocheted cardigans and dresses and some cozy, oversize velour hoodies. And after a rather abrupt group of shiny green and silver spandex bodysuits (scuba lessons at the country club, anyone?), the designer’s sexy little black cocktail dresses closed the evening on a high note.
|
Janet Ozzard
|
September 20, 2002
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6515c08298d8be2202786/master/w_1280,c_limit/100078562.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2003
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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]
] |
|
Alice Roi
|
fall-2002-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2002-ready-to-wear/alice-roi
|
A search for security? A return to a safer time? A meeting at the Junior League? Alice Roi's Fall collection suggested all of these things and more.Roi's inspiration was "the days of the debutantes"—although she clearly wasn't thinking about gin-swilling Jazz Age nymphets; hers are a more sedate group who wear Ferragamo flats and buy investment clothes. Even when showing edgier ideas, Roi has always been a strong tailor, and this collection's simple lines showed off her skill. Palazzo pants hung perfectly off the models' hips, an ankle-length ivory velvet coat had just the right flare and a wool jersey dress skimmed the body without a hitch.The clothes did occasionally get a little too serious. A straightforward red cashmere knit dress would need to be worn with a lot of attitude—or by someone under 25—to avoid coming off as starchy, and some of the velvet pieces sat rather heavily. Roi's wit shone through, though, in the fuzzy ivory fisherman's knits: a shrunken hoody cardigan with poet sleeves, a halter dress, a sleeveless top. And the glitzy red-and-gold brocade pants worn with a skintight ivory top and red cashmere tank? Just the thing to bring out the bad girl trapped inside every well-behaved deb.
|
Janet Ozzard
|
February 9, 2002
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650c908298d8be2161a08/master/w_1280,c_limit/100056973.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2002
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Alice Roi
|
spring-2002-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2002-ready-to-wear/alice-roi
|
For her fourth season, Alice Roi presented a pilgrim/Amish-themed show that proved her most mature and consistent collection to date.Trading her popular '80s-inspired bubblegum-girl silhouettes for long, fluid shapes, Roi opened with ankle-length dresses featuring grosgrain detailing at the wrists and waistline; the monastic effect was offset by thoroughly downtown, old-school Reebok boots. The designer stuck with neutral raw shades like pewter and oatmeal for her flowing country skirts and monkey-print frocks, but also ventured into city chic with fitted trousers, knockabout blazers and a couple of short scalloped lace dresses. Less interesting were the puff-sleeved Victorian shirts and flamenco-inspired tiered dresses, of which we saw plenty last season. Here, they felt gimmicky and derivative.Despite these occasional misfires, Roi's collection confirmed that she is a name to watch closely in the future.
| null |
September 8, 2001
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6515608298d8be21fb211/master/w_1280,c_limit/100043173.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2002
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Alice Roi
|
fall-2001-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2001-ready-to-wear/alice-roi
|
For her collection inspired by "educated virgins," Alice Roi combined dollhouse jewelry (made from real dollhouse furniture) and could-not-possibly-be-any-shorter minis. Her selection of the Honoré Daumier printLa Caricature(a drawing of two snobs turning up their noses at each other), which turned up on dresses and tops, exemplified her love of parody and play.Eighties references were on hand in a pair of Sebagos with heels, super-bright colors and asymmetries. But pervasive sailor styles, dropped waists, pleated skirts and leg-of-mutton sleeves referenced the early '20s. One standout was an almost preppy sweater with a sailing motif, worn with one straight and one puffy sleeve. And a black cashmere minidress with aLa Caricaturebanner would have made Coco Chanel proud.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
February 10, 2001
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c651b108298d8be2265e4b/master/w_1280,c_limit/100023854.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2001
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Alice Roi
|
spring-2001-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2001-ready-to-wear/alice-roi
|
Alice Roi, 24, is a native New Yorker with degrees from New York University and Parsons School of Design in fine arts and fashion design. Although she has designed only four collections, Roi already has been tapped to consult with Anna Molinari for her Spring 2001 collection and is set to launch a line of shoes with the British luxury line Gina. Roi's Spring collection was a rocking tribute to the '80s in all of its glorious excess: Leggings, minis, bows, batwing sleeves and white stilettos (customized with graffiti and mini padlocks) were some of the looks that Roi revisited with ironic wit and humor.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
September 16, 2000
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6515008298d8be21f47b3/master/w_1280,c_limit/100021645.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2001
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Alix Higgins
|
australia-resort-2025
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/australia-resort-2025/alix-higgins
|
Walking into the Alix Higgins show at Carriageworks, the venue hosting most of the shows during Australian Fashion week, the energy felt different than prior days: electric and youthful. A draped red velvet cape-gown printed with splotches of color and the word PRETENSION opened the show, followed by a model in a sheer sleeveless shell top tucked into a mini skirt made from a deconstructed polo shirt. Models of all genders whizzed by in reconstructed pieces that seemed like they had been pieced together in an urgent fury, including striped polos slashed on the sides, a shirt and skirt made from myriad white t-shirts. It was exactly the impression Higgins was after. “I introduced a pre-collection this year, which came out in January; so this [resort] collection happened very fast,” he said after the show. “I wanted the process to reflect that speed, the energy of running towards something, not questioning, not refining too much.”Elsewhere, bold prints mixed color and text in Higgins’s signature style. It happens to be one of the recognizable graphic design styles of the day—the words placed in a seemingly haphazard manner that is of course anything but. It was especially effective on a white tank top with black polka dots, where the dots were actually Higgins’s own thumbprints, with the words “electricity” and “sometimes” sprinkled above them. Also cool: a shell top with expressive swathes of yellow and lilac and the word “crush” boldly taking up space across the shoulders and a poignant black turtleneck sweater with the words “tulips, roses” in red intarsia on the chest. Though many of the words on the clothes seemed to be screaming, there was a melancholy about them. “My work is about poetry and emotion,” the designer said. “This season I wanted to have language that was quite direct and evocative of an image, text that can have maybe multiple meanings.”Other standouts included woven separates. A midi-length nylon jacket and matching trousers (worn by an older model and accessorized with a scalloped lace scarf in a way that felt very natural) and an oversized gray plaid blazer paired with shiny navy narrow trousers are silhouettes that Higgins should continue to explore in future seasons. A romantic floral print was, in fact, an iPhone image of the wallpaper in his rented flat.
|
Laia Garcia-Furtado
|
May 15, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/664445ed070e2677f3357c63/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alix-higgins-resort-2025-australia-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
australia
|
resort
|
2025
|
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] |
|
Alix Higgins
|
australia-resort-2024
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/australia-resort-2024/alix-higgins
|
Alix Higgins was thinking about earthquakes and an animal feeling. The visceral, elemental mood of Lars Von Trier films (Dogville, Antichrist) and “A Midsummer Night’s Dream” resonated with something pent-up in him after spending many meetings discussing the business end of his emerging label. “I was feeling this sense of creative frustration and wanting to really shake the world with my work,” he said. “Kind of like feeding a creative beast.”In this, his second-ever runway show, he didn’t get bogged down, so to speak, in overt links to muddy, earthy motifs —though models padded barefoot in black feet, that appeared peat-smeared. A scan of a vintage wolf-fur he had when he was working in Paris under Marine Serre was the most literal. Made into prints on halter-tops and skirts in his signature stretch-fabric and transferred onto cotton trenches; his “fur coat” was part of what he called a “refined wildness.” His signature stretched horizon prints returned, and haphazard words on his gender-neutral pieces, some plucked with humor from Internet-and queer-lexicons (“bottom” being also Shakespearean), others more gently poetic, though quietly evolved in monochrome and applied to pleating.Higgins is someone who creates instinctually, not by sketching and creating moodboards. This was how he formed the newness of upcycled polo shirts, hand-manipulated into sculptural evening tops, and drama-filled caped evening gowns that tap the ease of t-shirt. This gives a delicacy to his work, and a lightness of form with subtle meanings. Those clean shapes and subtlety though, come naturally to him— it would be exciting to see what would happen if he let the animal instinct properly loose on them.
|
Alice Birrell
|
May 19, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/64673247a216a76b844ffab2/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alix-higgins-australia-resort-2024-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
australia
|
resort
|
2024
|
[
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] |
|
Alix Higgins
|
australia-resort-2023
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/australia-resort-2023/alix-higgins
|
The Internet is much maligned for creating divide and social isolation. That’s not the case for Alix Higgins, a 28-year-old designer who came of age in the early ’00s Tumblr era, a time that seems near on quaintly old now. As a young person, Higgins geeked out on fashion online, watching videos of runway shows and connecting with like-minded obsessives in chat rooms. Those more innocent online days have informed his popular gradient print pieces, which feature words and short phrases reminiscent of the intimate unselfconsciousness that once pervaded personal blogs.Higgins cut his teeth working as Marine Serre’s print assistant in Paris, and he was keen to show off the technical training he gleaned there at his first runway presentation in Sydney. The gradient motifs are elongated digital images of the sunset in varying powdery shades, the result of a happy printing accident. A floral that he used on a dress with a removable peplum was actually a scan of his Paris bedsheets which he reprinted onto a dark background, glitching the pattern to meld the language of the Internet with that of traditional fashion.Combined with words like ‘finally fantasy,’ and ‘God,’ the floral telegraphed delicacy, spirituality, and intimacy. “Everything's disintegrated, fallen off you, and you just have emotion left and poetry left,” he said. Higgins’s fan base responds with devotion to his exploration of identity and invitation to interpret his words. These are clothes for a generation familiar with the solitary feeling of searching for your tribe. Higgins’s tribe is growing and it already includes Grimes and Hunter Schafer.
|
Alice Birrell
|
May 15, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/627e213d7f35b37d9fece5d4/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alix-higgins-australia-resort-2023-credit-getty-images-via-brand.jpg"
] |
australia
|
resort
|
2023
|
[
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]
] |
|
Allegra Hicks
|
resort-2009
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2009/allegra-hicks
|
What season could be better suited to the talents of Allegra Hicks, queen of caftans, than Resort? Her prints—this season a bold tropical motif and some smaller florals—naturally lend themselves to flowy, beach-friendly separates in jersey, stretch poplin, toweling, and a crinkled gauze that especially captured the sea-and-sand mood. Still, there were no surprises here. And for all of its patterns, the collection lacked a real creative imprint.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
June 18, 2008
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6519208298d8be2241491/master/w_1280,c_limit/00010m.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2009
|
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] |
||
Allegra Hicks
|
fall-2008-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2008-ready-to-wear/allegra-hicks
|
After building a following on her caftans, it was inevitable that Allegra Hicks would want to challenge herself more as a designer. There's a whole world of structure out there to explore. Hence, tailored items like the lamé pinstripe suit and the brocade cocktail dress in this collection. The tailoring lacked the necessary precision, however. Hicks fared better when she kept things simple, wrapped, and draped—she claimed as inspiration the dress worn by Ballets Russes dancer Olga Khokhlova in Picasso's 1917 portrait. One silk-jersey wrap dress, called Fifty-Four, was also surely a tip of the cap to erstwhile disco queen Diane von Furstenberg.That was a reminder that Hicks herself is the linchpin of a glamorous set. Presumably, it was her friends she had in mind when she came up with a collection that slotted so completely into the category once called After Five. If that sounds a little, um,squarein our own era, then there was also something a little square about these clothes. A velvet opera coat with fox-trimmed sleeves or a coat of silver leather ribbed with fur (and worn with tweed lamé trousers) offered the Hicksettes a kind of antique glamour curiously at odds with what one imagines to be their lifestyles.
|
Tim Blanks
|
February 14, 2008
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6518908298d8be22377f4/master/w_1280,c_limit/00010m.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2008
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Allegra Hicks
|
spring-2008-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2008-ready-to-wear/allegra-hicks
|
"I'm here for the girlfriends. This is my block," said a PR girl at the door of Allegra Hicks' show. She was gesturing to a wide expanse of the seating, and it was full: India Hicks and her mother, Lady Pamela Hicks; Becca Cason Thrash; the Countess of Albemarle; Cosima von Bülow; Suzanne Kapoor; Andrea Dellal. They were there, of course, to support a dear friend, and maybe to shop for next summer's vacation wardrobe. For the press, opposite, it was a bit more puzzling. For apart from the people-noting (these ladies don't turn out just anywhere), it didn't seem like a fashion show at which it was possible to note much fashion going on. Allegra Hicks does caftans, full-length and short, of the kind that hit the high street two years ago—more expensive, maybe, but no news now. She also has a way with pretty leafy prints, summery high-waisted halters, jersey dresses, and then a couple of gowns, one in pale chiffon suspended from crossover spaghetti straps, another in liquid copper. Rather than make it an official on-schedule press show—at the end of a week in which there has been so much innovative design—she would probably do better next time to present her collection in a more private, at-home setting among her friends. That, or regroup and come back with a design statement that feels stronger than this.
|
Sarah Mower
|
September 19, 2007
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6518208298d8be222e364/master/w_1280,c_limit/00010m.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2008
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Alonova
|
kiev-fall-2017
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/kiev-fall-2017/alonova
|
Designer Olga Alonova started the label Alonova first as a fur outerwear brand in 2003, but later expanded it into ready to wear in 2009. Her start in outwear may explain why the coats and jackets were particularly strong. Standouts included a chocolate vinyl coat with a leopard-fur-print collar and matching trousers, as well as a black version of the set.The clothing had a particular nouveau riche Ukrainian style and was geared toward glamour-minded clients. Still, this flashy aesthetic has been a tongue-in-cheek hit for labels like Vetements, and pieces from the Alonova label could very well appeal to Kiev’s cool young crowd, even if they weren’t intended to.
|
Liana Satenstein
|
February 27, 2017
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/589b37150970c6fb5f1356da/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-alonova-2017-womens-kiev.jpg"
] |
kiev
|
fall
|
2017
|
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] |
|
Altuzarra
|
spring-2025-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/altuzarra
|
The arrival of a new baby, his third with his husband, kept Joseph Altuzarra off the New York Fashion Week calendar in September. Behind the scenes, though, everything moved according to schedule; the clothes in these photos were sold to buyers starting in May, and parts of the collection will arrive in stores next month. It was designed in the same spirit as his fall runway show, which marked a creative turning point, with its rejection of “total look” fashion and emphasis on individual style. At a showroom appointment he said a pine green cropped suede jacket and long cotton chino skirt, which together exemplify his new more irreverent and more pragmatic approach, were among the season’s best sellers with his wholesalers.“The overarching thing we worked around this season was literature,” he explained. Altuzarra reads a lot of fiction and keeps up a staff book club;Remarkably Bright Creaturesby Shelby Van Pelt andThe Great Aloneby Kristin Hannah are two recent reads. On the clothes, his love of books translated into papery textures, folding details, and prints, like the marbling motif that decorated a shirtdress, and body paintings à la Yves Klein that appeared on otherwise minimal sheaths. Other pieces were printed with fantastical images of creatures skimming over waves and mountaintops, the result of a cadavre exquis project the design studio took part in. And the exaggerated cotton eyelet that adorned the ruffled neckline of a slinky silk dress was inspired by paper crafts of the kind most of us will remember from making snowflakes in art class.Swapping a sense of control for a sense of play can make for tricksy fashion, but Altuzarra kept his designs rooted in recognizable archetypes. The papery yarns, for instance, were used for aran sweaters, while floaty organza skirts with origami-like folding details were grounded by neat tailored jackets with the defined waists of the New Look. “We still wanted it to feel like it was a lot of different people,” Altuzarra said. He let his imagination fly on an evening dress with an “almost Renaissance hip construction” and eyelet ruffles at the shoulder line that evoke bird’s wings. A look—and a collection—with a lot of main character energy.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
October 25, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/671a9cb819b0fc9143e6558a/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-altuzarra-spring-2025-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2025
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Altuzarra
|
fall-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-ready-to-wear/altuzarra
|
Joseph Altuzarra emailed personal invitations to his show. In a normal season that would’ve required clicking send on 600 or so individual notes. But this was his 15th anniversary, and as he said in his invite, he wanted to honor it with “those who have supported me throughout my career.” He brought together a group of about 100 at his Woolworth Building HQ for a salon-style presentation. His daughter sat on his mother’s lap, and there wasn’t a pay-for-play celebrity or influencer in the room.“I worked on this collection in a different way,” Altuzarra said at a studio preview before the space was emptied to prepare for the show. “It wasn’t as much about stories and much more about pieces that I felt interested in developing.” After a season that was called out for some secondhand ideas, Altuzarra was due for a reset, and this collection did indeed feel renewed, with fresh ideas pulled from his own personal preoccupations.Take Look 1, a sweeping mac with a storm-flap back lifted directly from his own life. Altuzarra has started show jumping competitively out on Long Island, where he and his husband have a home; later on in the collection, a pair of silk-twill sundresses featured abstract prints that looked equestrian in nature. Jodhpurs were in the mix too.Amidst the pictures of horse girls on the mood board were Tamara de Lempicka paintings that may have inspired a crystal-and-lace flapper-ish slip dress. Illustrations of clowns in Pierrot ruffs definitely influenced the frilled collars and cuffs on knits and blouses, which were often topped by more masculine pieces, like a peacoat or a toggle coat, or a neatly tailored blazer—shades of ’80s Ralph Lauren.With the exception of the knit pants that made multiple appearances—full to just below the knees, then leggings tight to the ankles, and worn with pointy ballet flats—variety was the rule here. “I wanted it to feel like walking into someone’s wardrobe that they’ve collected over a long period of time, where things feel like they say something about the person’s personality,” said Altuzarra.You could see the room full of editors making mental shopping lists: a sequined Aran sweater for this one, a bugle-beaded tuxedo shirt with tails for that one, an embroidered harlequin lace blouse for another—special pieces grounded in the everyday.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 11, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/65c97457fc7a8d08f6339f4a/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-altuzarra-fall-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Altuzarra
|
fall-2009-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/altuzarra
|
"I didn't want the collection to be cold or distant," said Joseph Altuzarra of his 15-plus-piece debut presentation. No chance of that. His are the kind of of-the-moment, body-conscious clothes made for raising, ahem, emotions in hot-blooded males. With the forties and eighties as reference points, Altuzarra turned out ruched dresses in white stretch matte jersey with slightly padded shoulders; camel-colored pantsuits with fitted jackets and razor-slim pants; and one-shoulder silver-blue silk lamé and stretch georgette cocktail dresses worn with above-the-knee black suede boots. But the Givenchy and Proenza Schouler alum isn't a one-note boy wonder. Lose the superfluous fur fringe on the sharp cashmere-wool cream coat that opened the show or the jacket that followed, and the collection would be less about landing a man than landing that big job. It can't be easy launching a business at a time like this, but Altuzarra's polished technique means he's an up-and-comer to take seriously.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 11, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6519e08298d8be224f264/master/w_1280,c_limit/00010fullscreen.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2009
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Altuzarra
|
spring-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/altuzarra
|
“It’s a departure,” Joseph Altuzarra announced before his show. “I thought of the last couple of years as being an exploration of a kind of escapist world, one that crescendoed last season with all these swirling colors, and I liked the idea of going back to something that felt a little more vulnerable, a little rawer, and a little closer to life.”Rosemary’s Babywas a reference point. He had a copy of the 50th anniversary edition of the Ira Levin book placed on every guest seat, but it was the Roman Polanski movie that he quoted. Nine years ago, for spring 2015, Altuzarra was looking at the same film, but its haunting undercurrents felt much closer to the surface this season, what with tulle veils and matching 1960s babydoll dresses and the she’s-come-undone details, like the crushed textures of everything from slipdresses to A-line coats, gauzy organza slips peeking out from underneath the hems of pencil skirts, and the DIY-ish embroideries on other skirts and dresses.Mia Farrow’s Rosemary Woodhouse was the stated muse, but Miuccia Prada presided over the proceedings. Prada practically invented the unhinged bourgeois, on the runway at least, and this collection nodded at both her recent outing and more archival ones. It’s been a week of ’90s references, with other designers looking at Helmut Lang and Calvin Klein. They are, at root, competing visions: cool minimalism on the one hand, and twisted conservatism on the other. But if either can persuade women to move on from the played-out provocations of edgy and sexual, it will be a victory.To tempt them, Altuzarra had satin coats in red, butter yellow, and ivory that were A-line and somewhat oversized, “almost as if you took a doll coat from the ’60s and blew it up a little bit,” and a strapless polka dot trapeze dress straight out of 1950s couture. There was also a pair of gowns, one black with thin straps, and the other a white tank style, that looked neither twisted, nor bourgeois; they were simply striking.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 11, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/64ff923714dfaccea60f94f9/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-altuzarra-spring-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Altuzarra
|
fall-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/altuzarra
|
Collectively much of New York has decided on modern tailoring and soft neutrals for fall 2023. Brown pantsuits are everywhere—do we need so many of them? Group think on this level suggests that designers are proceeding with caution, reining themselves in because of outer forces like inflation, or inner ones like exhaustion. That’s what made Joseph Altuzarra’s show last night so outstanding, he’s on his own trip.Alive with color, print, and texture, every look was long to the floor, and there wasn’t a pantsuit in sight. It read like a culmination of the three seasons that preceded it, in which he leaned into nature, mythology, and even shamanism. “I wanted it to feel like an exploration of imagination and feeling,” Altuzarra said at a preview. “There’s a sense of everything being so fraught right now, everything you read is so based in scary real things. I wanted to counterbalance that with something that felt out of this world.”The show’s first looks delivered on that promise. The dyed parkas, both short and long, looked like they could’ve been based on butterfly wings or floral patterns. Actually, they were Rorschachs, inspired by the idea of seers and oracles—of reading the tea leaves. More vibrantly printed outerwear followed, only in brushed wool. A peacoat and long narrow skirt cut from the same fabric worn with elbow length gloves was a novel idea for a fancy evening: dramatic, while still relaxed.The New York Public Library venue was kept purposely dim, lit as if by candles, as if to make the point that this was a collection full of entrance makers. A draped jersey section yielded several easy-to-wear jersey knockouts in the vein of Madame Grès. An ethereal white two-piece look paired a softly draped top sliced diagonally at the hem with a sinuous bias-cut long skirt, exposing just a flash of skin at the midriff. Another group of dresses featured botanical prints placed with care (and a great deal of labor, Altuzarra said) over specific parts of the body: the ribs, the spine, the hip bones, the femurs, “as if nature is reclaiming it.”Altuzarra acknowledged a timely synergy with end-of-the-world TV sensationThe Last of Us. The stuff that he’s been thinking about—mysticism, the rituals we turn to to make sense of the world—resonates for a lot of us. Then there’s just the simple magic of an extraordinary piece. Those came at the end: another group of evening parkas, these in satin embellished with crystals in those botanical patterns, for opening night at the opera or another out-of-this-world occasion. Bravo.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 15, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/63ec9851db8fe3439bbc4406/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-altuzarra-fall-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Altuzarra
|
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/altuzarra
|
Joseph Altuzarra is on a roll. His gender-ful collection, Altu, is off and running; he’s got a new TikTok account that fashion people can’t stop talking about; and his eponymous collection just keeps getting better, with three shows, including this one, building on one another and telling a larger story. “The world feels so alien and scary. I’ve been interested in how people in the past have made sense of things,” Altuzarra said at a preview. “Finding tangible reasons for why things are happening is what people would do, and that’s what I’ve been expressing through the collections.”For spring he said he wanted to explore “this idea of a trip and nature as an entry point for psychedelic experiences.” A couple of books,The Teachings of Don JuanandDesert Solitaire,both written in the late ’60s and both delving into mysticism, proved inspirational. The show played out like a journey—or maybe a vision quest—starting with preppy-ish classics like striped shirts, cable sweaters, and minis that Altuzarra tweaked and twisted until they looked neither preppy nor classic. He topped them with boxy blazers or parkas (his earliest fans will have clocked the callback to a breakthrough collection for fall 2011), and accessorized the looks with retro Keds sneakers. Altuzarra experimented with denim, too, a first for him.The shibori-dyed dress of look 19 is where woman meets nature. Tie-dye and coin embroidery are two Altuzarra signatures, and he doubled down here, sending out a parade of exquisite dresses whose intricate craftsmanship is near unrivaled in New York. Most ambitious—and impressive—was the series of body-skimming numbers that were first tie-dyed, then pleated and twisted; their patterns looked like exotic skins. Other dresses were sewn first, then dyed. “It’s all done on a final garment. You basically can’t mess up, because if you do, you have to redo the whole thing,” he said. They take almost two months to make.In the end, Altuzarra’s hot streak comes down to that kind of hard work. It’s the path to enlightenment too. According to the Tao: When you concentrate fully on a task, you leave the self behind and you find inner peace. There was evidence of that work all over this collection, not least of all in the finale parkas, which he dyed and embellished with oversized paillettes and mandalas of smaller metal discs, bells, and beads. Everyday and enlightened—magical realism in sartorial form.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 10, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/631ce75506e1f1c1ae2b76e5/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-altuzarra-spring-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Altuzarra
|
fall-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/altuzarra
|
Joseph Altuzarra had a productive pandemic. In November he introduced a small collection of home goods that quickly sold out. Then in December he launched Altu, a new line of genderful—not genderless—clothes that’s won over Troye Sivan and Justin Bieber. “I’m much less risk averse now,” Altuzarra said at a showroom preview. That applies to both his new projects and his eponymous collection.The fall lineup picks up threads from last season, which leaned earthier and craftier than other periods in the label’s 13-year run. “It was about communing with nature and giving into wanderlust,” Altuzarra said. “I loved the idea of this narrative of a sailor that’s seduced and then transformed into a mermaid.” You saw that evolution play out on the runway.The show opened with marinière shirts, long wool skirts modeled on a kilt Altuzarra had made for himself on a recent trip to Scotland, and military-inflected outerwear, including the season’s definitive pea coat with a swaggering stand-up shearling collar. The middle section was punctuated with tie-dyes, a signature that Altuzarra revived to much success for spring. The news here was that it was knits, not wovens, that were dyed, which gave the dresses a more sensual feel, accentuated by ruching and midriff cut-outs. Dip-dyed cashmeres will be popular too.As the collection continued, Altuzarra really dug into the theme, making a pair of dresses and a cropped cardigan and maxi skirt combo from a knit his studio developed that looks like the scalloped pattern of fish scales. They were marvels. His mermaids wore net dresses fully embroidered in graduated metal sequins with a patina that looked like it had been aged by seawater. These were strictly showpieces, but he’ll reproduce their effect for production with lighter-weight plastic paillettes.A decade ago, Altuzarra’s breakthrough collection leaned into the kind of military tailoring here. “I’ve been in business long enough that I’m sort of looking back a bit,” he said. “I think there’s a recognition from customers, that sense of like, ‘Oh yeah, this is really Altuzarra, this is what the brand is about.’” Equally, though, there are parallels here with his new line Altu, where he’s made questioning the gender binary part of his design practice. Altuzarra is really firing on all cylinders.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 13, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6209b13f74de652aa1973712/master/w_1280,c_limit/_FIO0020.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2022
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Altuzarra
|
spring-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-ready-to-wear/altuzarra
|
Welcome back, Joseph Altuzarra! It was 2017 when Altuzarra left New York for Paris in a wave of established designers looking for more visibility on the international stage. The pandemic kept him here this season; when it was announced in May that he’d be showing, his return became part of the narrative around a revived NYFW schedule. His show today lived up to that build-up, and then some. Tapping into instincts he described as “eclectic and even a touch escapist” yielded his best collection in years. Being on familiar turf didn’t hurt, either. The hometown crowd gave him a rousing cheer when he came out for a bow.“It wasn’t easy, especially with the anti-Asian violence,” Altuzarra said of his pandemic experience, echoing a sentiment expressed often this week. “But I felt this intense kinship with New York; I wanted to be part of the rebuilding or rebirth.” He did that by going back to his foundations. The collection started with a reprise, of sorts, reviving the beloved shibori dyeing of his spring 2016 collection on separates and dresses layered with bikini tops in the same richly colored patterns. The difference this time around was the dyeing was done on knits, a growing category for Altuzarra and many others. The same body-loving, but easy-to-wear shapes also came in solids.Altuzarra said he looked at a treasured book, Charles Fréger’sWilder Mann, and its photographs of pagan rituals and celebrations of spring, for inspiration. “I responded to the idea of finding magic and wonder and myth in nature. In our everyday life we get bogged down by details and minutiae,” said Altuzarra. What made this collection so compelling was the way he merged everyday relatability with magical, hand-rendered touches: the aforementioned shibori knits, the crochet paneling he added to his sharp tailoring, the floral bundle printing of silk evening dresses that were evocative of customer-favorite bias-cut, charm-trimmed evening dresses from spring 2015.The spring 2022 favorites, of this editor at least, are the plissé jackets worn with matching skirts, one in gold lamé, the other in a blue marble print. The gold lamé jacket was laced sensually closed in front; it looked dressy but unprecious at once, a combination that feels especially attuned to our time. Bravo.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 12, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/613f3badfdb2d0f49a50efd3/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Altuzarra-Spring-2022-RTW-Credit-Filippo-Fior-GORUNWAY.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2022
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Altuzarra
|
fall-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/altuzarra
|
“Comfort, but make it fashion.” After 12 months of Zooms, how have we not heard that one before? Joseph Altuzarra was the clever designer who came up with it on a video call withVogueeditors earlier this week. He did develop his new fall collection with an eye to comfort, but that doesn’t mean it’s dressed down. Rather, Altuzarra seemed to be thinking about ways to synthesize the polish and sophistication his brand stands for with the ease we’ve all grown accustomed to over the last year.The collection shoot was staged in a well-appointed Manhattan townhouse. A tufted velvet couch and fireplace drove home the loungeability of the heavy-gauge ribbed knit layers, cashmere underpinnings, and jersey tailoring he made for fall. But should we indeed be sprung from our various confinements by the time these clothes are available, they’ll help smooth our transitions into more formal situations. For both the glamorous and the germ-averse, he’s showing many of the looks with elbow-length gloves.Typically Altuzarra sketches his collections, but this time around he said he experimented with collage, landing on butterfly wings as a motif. As we shed our chrysalises, the re-emergence dress may very well become the piece we splurge on. There are a good many contenders for the role here, including a couple that revive the popular tie-dyed frocks Altuzarra made half a decade ago. The standouts, though, are definitely the butterfly wing dresses. Effortless but impactful in their panoply of colors, they were quite laborious to make; each one was arranged on pleated construction paper, so the factory could engineer the prints as precisely as was required.Altuzarra also takes the prize for most tempting and timely footwear. For anyone not quite ready to shed their house slippers when the lockdowns finally lift, he’s made delicate shearling trimmed sandals with drop pearl embellishments.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
March 6, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/604260658a26b6e2fe75cec2/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Altuzarra-Fall-21.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2021
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Altuzarra
|
spring-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2021-ready-to-wear/altuzarra
|
Dunewas one of the many books Joseph Altuzarra read during lockdown. On a Zoom call, he described the 1965 novel by Frank Herbert as one of the very early environmental books. “It really resonated with me and my anxieties about survival,” he said. As a designer Altuzarra also connected with Herbert’s descriptions of what people wore to endure difficult conditions. A Denis Villeneuve remake of David Lynch’s iconic 1984 film adaptation is due at the end of the year, so there’s a timeliness to Altuzarra’s starting point this season.We aren’t a feudal interstellar society yet—this will not be mistaken for Altuzarra’s one-and-only sci-fi collection. But he and his peers are designing for a changed world, one that has reprioritized questions of comfort and practicality and shifted notions about what’s sexy. The high-slit pencil skirts that were his earliest signature, for example, are not a factor. Instead, many of the skirts here have airy volumes, while the slinkier ones are adaptable, with functional baroque pearl buttons tracing the seams that allow the wearer to decide how much leg to show off. A restraint/release theme carries over into other garments, including dresses with caped, cocoon-like shoulders that can be peeled back—“morphed,” is the word he used—to create a different silhouette.A video Altuzarra made chronicles how he put the collection together. “It’s about opening up the process and not trying to hide the scrappy part of me—letting people see the passion and love,” he said. Resourceful might be a better word than scrappy. One of his most compelling innovations this season is the re-crafted material he made by shredding old Altuzarra fabrics and re-knitting them into separates and bags, which have been an early hit with retailers. Another is the pleating story, which Altuzarra likened to “almost a couture development.” It involved cutting traditional pleats and heat pressing them back together, with results that are wavy and irregular rather than strict—and more interesting for it.“I’ve vacillated between extremes this season,” Altuzarra confided, “elated but also scared, inspired but also stifled, kind of optimistic and hopeless as well. I wanted to be honest about how I felt.” As we approach the end of fashion month, the surprise of the pandemic is just how galvanizing it has been for designers. ThisNew York Timesheadline resonates: “The Pandemic Depression Is Over. The Pandemic Recession Has Just Begun.” Business may be down—but creativity is up.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
October 3, 2020
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5f77bf2da86ef9454d7e973e/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-altuzarra-RTW-spring-21.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2021
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Alyx
|
spring-2025-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-menswear/alyx
|
Last we heard of Matthew M. Williams, back in December, the American designer had just announced his departure from Givenchy following the thought-provoking (if less headline-making) news that he had secured an investment deal for his Alyx label with Adrian Cheng, the Hong Kong–based entrepreneur. This week, quietly and intimately hosting previews in his Paris apartment, Williams revealed exactly what the new Alyx will look like moving forward.The designer and Cheng, now the label’s majority owner, outlined their plans to accelerate the label’s growth. They spoke of freestanding stores, betting on DTC channels, and maximizing drops with pop-ups and other events. They moved the label’s headquarters away from Italy, which had been a crucial part of its storytelling as this “American designer making luxury items in Italy,” to Paris, where Williams has been based since he took the job at Givenchy. But they hadn’t explained how exactly they’d reshape Alyx’s product until now. “We’ve had a really great reaction to the collection, especially because we really brought down the prices this season from the past decade,” said Williams.The new Alyx is significantly more accessible than it had been historically. A sweatshirt came down from $600 to around $250, a leather jacket from $3,000 to $900, and the denim from $700 to $450. “These kinds of prices allow more stores to buy deeper and kids to be able to purchase the brand, which is great,” said Williams. “Hence why the collection is smaller than normal; it’s a transition.”A transition because, as Williams said, he was used to working with “the most expensive fabrics and suppliers in the world in Italy.” Now he’s been striving to offer a similar level of product but using a different supply chain. “It’s a different way of making clothing than I’ve done in the past decade,” he said. When asked if there was a takeaway from this exercise, he continued: “Every single season is a new challenge, and it’s never easy. I can’t synthesize it into one takeaway.”It makes sense for Williams to make Alyx more accessible, and one wonders why he hadn’t done this before. He has a legion of fans currently obsessing over this drop in his Instagram comments. They are who this is for, after all: “We don’t need another brand that’s just grinding every penny out of the customer and the environment, and all these clothes that are just about having beautiful models with the propaganda of logos around the world; that’s not why I started doing fashion,” he said. “I like to think there are people who notice that and connect with the brand, because it actually means something and it’s personal and it’s connected to culture in a real way, because sometimes when you get in these big corporations, it’s like they’re not even aware of that; it’s just an Excel sheet on the computer.”Williams has streamlined his collection’s proportions and is starting fresh with a line of Alyx essentials: a slim, high-break tailored jacket (one of the main tailoring stories of this men’s season), a lightly down-filled gilet, roomy short-sleeve button-downs, and a nice pair of jeans in a classic soft wash. These are the building blocks for Williams’s next act, made exclusively for those who care.
|
José Criales-Unzueta
|
June 23, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/668c0d0f1f89a84de6a39a80/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alyx-spring-2025-menswear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2025
|
menswear
|
[
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] |
|
Alyx
|
spring-2024-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-menswear/alyx
|
Before this show began, many in the Alyx audience were content to down the white wine and hatch plans for the after-party. Many others wondered if it would ever start. After 45 minutes the speaker stacks out in Via Ventura rumbled to life. Out came tailored peak lapel jackets and a topcoat in black, or black and brown, both with angled, popper-fastened cargo pockets at the tricep and chain-edged collars. Grommeted, zip-up, raw-edged sleeveless jackets in treated canvas featured matte relief crossbar-free “A” logos that were repeated on the breast of Matthew M. Williams’s favorite-cut button up shirt. Worn with similarly crisp white cotton pants, this created a sensei vibe Williams said he could get behind.This crisp look was the first to feature a dainty ballet-slipper shoe style with a new enclosed variation of the FiveFingers sole Williams said he and his team had developed in partnership with Vibram. They seemed all the daintier in contrast to the business as usual mega molded sole boots, this time presented with original (and therefore Australian) Ugg-length low-calf uppers that came in a mix of finishes, including leopard.In the second half of the show these big boots were presented with four or five variations of a capri-esque pant, which, despite its chichi (but also schlumpy) associations, worked well. If you scrunched up your mental eye a little, there was something a little postindustrial-punk pant about them. And like them or not, it was fun to see a queasily unfamiliar combination—inspired by a Wolfgang Tillmans photograph entitledGedser—in a collection that Williams said he’d styled himself. He elaborated: “I just wanted it to be very pure. Just like looks that I would wear. Very direct, not over-styled, and immediate.”Treated multipocket shorts, liner gilets, and oversized jackets with rollercoaster buckles—all of them in leather—were also part of the narrative. What looked like greasy-effect denim was cut into full volumed separates. Full-armed canvas sweatshirts and a false tee-sleeve over long-sleeve top worn with those comely capris made for new tracksuit silhouettes. Williams and his longtime design director Lee Roach fashioned a subtly distorted spring wardrobe of false-flag work-to-street-to-eveningwear staples tonight.
|
Luke Leitch
|
June 16, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/648cc3a6cbbd9203f434c9fe/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-1017-alyx-9sm-spring-2024-menswear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2024
|
menswear
|
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]
] |
|
Alyx
|
fall-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/alyx
|
“I do see the man and the woman hanging out,” said Matthew Williams as we looked at this womenswear follow-up to January’s menswear show. He continued: “The beautiful thing about Alyx is that the history of the brand is being written every day in real time. It’s like a personal monologue. What I was interested in at 27 when I started the brand, it’s evolved a lot, now that I’m 37 and that’s okay. It’s not that we need to make clothes for club kids, which is something I was probably more interested in when I started out.”Nonetheless, you could see some of these looks killing it in the club, alongside the Alyx man or not. These included the dog-collar stud neck distressed-hem dresses at the start and finish, the slip dress in a print from the carry-over Mark Flood artist collaboration, plus the gathered-neck metal mesh top (with pink distressed denim shorts ) and minidress. Equally you could place William’s Alyx women in more genteel contemporary scenarios— gallery openings, creative meetings, bank robberies and the like—in his jewel detailed, satin revered, rough-edged tailoring, rib knit dresses, and studded knee leather pants and shearlings.The treated lace on draped pants and tops was another reference to Flood’s lace paintings, and its delicate discord countered nicely against the harder turmoil in leathers that had been carefully dyed, washed, printed, and then burned to create multi-layered depth. The silver rabbit hardware was also Flood-sourced, based on a painting of melted, mixing Easter bunnies. The cowboy boots, some Flood-printed, others plainer, had their leather toes sliced open to reveal uncompromising steel caps beneath. There were two new bags, the unisex Payton and the feminocentric Raya, both of which came in Flood prints and various vegan and non-vegan fabrications.Williams, both through parsing these last two Alyx collections and keeping an eye on his wider activities, appears to be entering a fresh and progressively galvanized phase of design. He said: “I want to allow the brand to mature and grow and evolve with my tastes and life: It is such a personal project.”
|
Luke Leitch
|
March 9, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6407a25b7b010439afd7608d/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alyx-fall-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Alyx
|
fall-2023-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-menswear/alyx
|
“YES YES BLAH BLAH BLAH YAWN.” So was inscribed the canvas by Houston’s Mark Flood, boldly installed directly opposite the section of runway by which your correspondent was standing during this all-standing Alyx show. Yet this was anything but meh. Flood, 72, is the subject of an exhibition that will be hung in the Studio Maiocchi showspace for some time hence, and which also provided much of the decoration—not all of it surface-borne—in this collection. More arch Flood signage (STAR on the front, DUM on the back) plus angry bootlegged Big Tobacco graphics were presented on the canvas of cleverly layered garment dyed sweats and distressed leathers. More intimately, colored and distressed lace that echoed the framing on some Flood paintings was rematerialized into real lace and insinuated as a treated, ripped then repaired layer on womenswear dresses—for next month's collection reveal—and in pants.Matthew Williams upgraded his slightly severe, tech-goth aesthetic—a no-brainer if anyone ever greenlights the Neuromancer movie—with new luxury versions of modular mole portage, de-gendered moto mid layers and stacked and distressed work boots. Top coats with box cut satin peaked lapels were worn over S.W.A.T. flavored combat pants to create post-apocalypse tuxedos. Floating sheaths of technical material swathed shell-shouldered jackets that signaled strength and movement.Williams sticks to the refrain that he just makes clothes that he wants to wear. The five-deep audience, plus the after-party crowd straining outside, suggested that he remains an avatar of broader interests. Williams’ narrative is no fashion bildungsroman—it’s much more complex, with layers as wrought and unobvious as his artisan-distressed pieces. Such is its fascination for those who follow it.
|
Luke Leitch
|
January 13, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/63c1c60ba426ef92a40af9c3/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alyx-fall-2023-mens-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2023
|
menswear
|
[
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]
] |
|
Alyx
|
spring-2023-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-menswear/alyx
|
As Matthew Williams said straight-up straight afterwards, the derelict Franco Scarioni swimming pool was an appropriate venue because: “there’s a lot of skin in the dresses.” Not to mention the womenswear one-pieces and—in the noble spirit of equal opportunities skin-baring—an entirely equitable proportion of sheer knits, midriff-flashing hoodie scarves, and pants-only looks for men.Another great reason to be here, al fresco, was that Williams felt super-comfortable—given especially that Covid rates are rising again—in inviting a much larger crowd than got to see last season’s first live Milan Alyx show. These included Chito—who sprayed the poolside in what Williams said was a surprise to him—plus 24kGoldn, gmoney, Remo Ruffini, Lucas Jagger (who came straight from Dsquared2), M24, and Martine Rose.Wait, what, Martine Rose? Increasingly, watching shows this season feels like watching those Marvel movies that led up toAvengers: Endgame—except that instead of the MCU it is the LVFU (Louis Vuitton Fashion Universe) that keeps dropping storyboarded Easter Eggs and unexpected cut-scene adjacencies in order to preface a climax to come. And to then consider that both Williams tonight and Rose a few days ago used their runways to tease new Nike collabs? We’re in serious Den of (Fashion) Geek territory.But anyway: as standalone episodes, Alyx shows now echo against the work he is doing at Givenchy—the top-tier LVMH Parisian franchise he scored thanks to much sterling work for Alyx in Milan in partnership with Luca Benini’s Slam Jam from 2015. The timing of that Givenchy appointment in June 2020 meant he could not show his work live until last October, which rather sucked the oxygen of impact from his arrival. This makes it easy to forget—and how so very quickly we do forget—the centrality and influence of Williams to the hype-heavy chest-rig and industrial hardware tactical-chic menswear moment that proved so prevalent around five years ago.Such was their power that these motifs quickly became absorbed into the decorative lexicons of other, bigger houses—often through collaboration with Williams himself. Looking at today’s poolside Alyx it was interesting to consider—once you moved on from the skin—how comprehensively Williams has taken them out of his runway window (although there are plenty of roller coaster buckle belts available on the Alyx e-store).Instead there were subtler details such as the origami pockets that featured in the tailoring in Alyx’s first standalone Paris show, here transferred to denim. The penultimate organza Big Bird minidress looked out of place in the rundown context, but would surely live happily within Givenchy’s long-mooted—but apparently deferred—Williams couture debut. Armless, raw-edged minimalist tailoring, long-hem moto leathers, zip-deconstructed jersey pieces, and a series of drawstring ruched minidresses were further evidence of Willams’ undoubted range and talent.
|
Luke Leitch
|
June 17, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/62ace93fc8766d960e6a080a/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alyx-mens-spring-2023-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2023
|
menswear
|
[
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] |
|
Alyx
|
fall-2022-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-menswear/alyx
|
Above us a drone whined, twisted, and whirred, its rotors producing enough updraft to blow strands of the ostrich feather collars worn by some models up to adhere on their lips. At our feet another drone, this one on wheels, clinked and clanked as it forwarded and reversed to ensure the shots allowed for lingering glances at the split-toe contra-color womenswear heels and the Mono boot, a bulky but contoured EVA foam puddleboot that was an update of a similar piece first launched a few seasons back. The models walked to a slow burning, snare-rattled beat by F1lthy, who had put an original composition together after receiving images of this show venue, a decadently-decorated but near-derelict church on the edge of town named Saint Victor and the Forty Martyrs.There were just 70 of us in the congregation for the first show by Matthew Williams’s brand—full name 1017 Alyx 9SM—in Italy. It was something of a homecoming for a label that was founded by Williams in Ferrara back in 2015, in partnership with Slam Jam’s Luca Benini, before the design studio was moved to Milan two years later. Despite that, all its pre-pandemic shows were in Paris. “But Milan has been our home for that time, and now we're here to stay, which is cool,” said Williams.The collection was consistent with those past Parisian promenades in the striking contrast between its masculine and feminine silhouettes. Those in the menswear, including the musician Destroy Lonely, wore layered stratae of sheepskin or puffer over technical midlayers or volumized knits and PVC pants, sometimes alongside short over pant layering, placed against long topcoats with bulkily bolstered shoulders, all making for an exaggeratedly weighty and visually protective carapace. For those in the womenswear, dresses cut away below the bust served as capes over hip-skimming pants, full-length dresses were edged in crystalline mesh, and fitted monocolor pant and baselayer combos in fuchsia and red were ruched at the shoulder via trademark Alyx hardware.Thinking of the long gap between Alyx’s last show and this one, we wondered if Willams had processed any input from clients about their evolving tastes. He replied: “I wish I had more time to spend with the clientele and understand them a little bit better, but I honestly just make clothes that I feel are desirable. So maybe it sounds selfish or narcissistic, but I’m just making things that I like, and hopefully other people will like them too. That’s just how I move.”
|
Luke Leitch
|
January 14, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/61e1e702e574f7f80bebe130/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Alyx-Mens-Fall-22-Milan-credit-Filippo-Fior.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2022
|
menswear
|
[
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]
] |
|
Alyx
|
spring-2022-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-menswear/alyx
|
There’s been a sense of sci-fi to the post-pandemic beach scenarios staged by brands this season, which the 1017 Alyx 9SM film captured well. Shot by Jordan Hemingway through the blurry 1970s warmth of 16mm film, but on the Mars-like, black volcanic beaches of Stromboli, the idea of the beach felt at once foreign and nostalgic. Add the type of clothes Matthew Williams designs—futuristic textures, alien sculpting, clinical vibes—and the Alyx experience easily embodied our reemergent mindset.For those trapped in cities for so long, the holiday scenes we used to take for granted now look like something out ofAvatar. “It reminds you how powerful nature is,” the designer said of the lava island. “We were fitting the collection in Milan, and someone from the studio was like, ‘This collection would be so beautiful on black sand beaches,’” he recalled, on a video call from his Paris apartment.Williams has been frequenting the Aeolian islands for years. Panarea is his haunt, but he was more than familiar with the otherworldly landscapes of Stromboli, and the inimitable sunset immortalized in his film. “It’s a sunrise and a sunset: a new beginning for us as a brand, as an industry, the world. It’s progression and succession, and that’s what I’m feeling right now.”Observing the “evolution over revolution” concept he employs at Alyx, Williams approached his new beginning by going back to his brand’s roots, refining and finessing the silhouettes, textures and hardware that epitomize it. The garment dyes and surface effects he works into his streetwear came out reminiscent of things you might see in a volcanic landscape, while lighter cap metal branding featured throughout the collection set Alyx’s industrial character in stone.But for all the protective attributes those ideas had to offer a post-pandemic dress sense, it was the softness of draped dresses with twist and knot details that felt most sensitive to our reemergent mentality. Perhaps we’re seeing a softer side to Williams after the Great Reset? The vegetable garden he’s been growing on his sprawling Paris terrace would suggest so. “I’m so into my vegetable garden,” he effused. “I got strawberries going, romaine, cabbage, tomatoes, sweet potato… I harvest them with my kids when they’re here, and we cook in the kitchen.”At Alyx, Williams is amping up those artisanal values, too. A series of dresses covered in thousands of hand-embroidered glass tube beads weren’t just for show, but will be made to order. In recent seasons, similar pieces have been offered online, and Williams detected a demand.Asked if it’s an effect of his current tenure at Givenchy, he said it goes both ways. “There’s a group of people who love what I do at Alyx, who now love what I do at Givenchy. And there are new supporters from Givenchy that now are aware of Alyx. In general, as a brand—and when you’re starting to provide one-off pieces that are tens of thousands of euros—that confidence is gonna exist for many years to come.”
|
Anders Christian Madsen
|
June 27, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/60d9f5f307311268fe04b9db/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Alyx-Mens-SS22.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2022
|
menswear
|
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] |
|
Alyx
|
fall-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/alyx
|
Imbuing conventional dress codes with progressive values is, unsurprisingly, a big theme this men’s season. The social unrest of 2020 has made houses from Louis Vuitton to Hermès think beyond the surface of change. Now, fashion wants to change the meaning of its own codes entirely, and promote freedom of identity. As a drop in the new bloodline of designers flowing through the veins of the industry, Matthew Williams speaks that language. His co-ed collection for 1017 Alyx 9SM (say it ten times fast) continued his free game of mixing and matching the codes of traditional wardrobes through the fabrication-centric approach that defines his work.It’s an ongoing fortification of brand identity that never strays off focus. Even Williams’ show notes reflected it. Devoid of traditional spiels on inspiration, they offered instead a list of fabric and hardware developments and new accessories. “Alyx always keeps evolving the same silhouette and the same materials. The hardware is consistent,” the designer said on a video call from his sprawling apartment in Paris, a panoramic city view behind him. “It’s a stripping-back to where we began, and defining those codes again, and making them more consistent and solid. Because we weren’t doing a show, we wanted to reduce it down to exactly what was needed.”The pictures he released in place of his usual runway presentation showed a collage of twisted classics: massive teddy coats, super elongated denim jackets, various shape-shifting takes on puffers and parkas, body-con dresses, and suits developed by Caruso. Add the industrial buckle accessories Williams excels in, and the ‘ugly cool’ EVA-soled slides and mules adored by Gen Z superstars, and you’ve pretty much ticked every box on the young social media-fueled trend list. “Women’s materials are stretch, knitwear is cosy, shoes can just be slipped on. But you still feel ‘dressed’. It’s effortless,” he said, echoing the generational dressing mentality that created those trends in the first place. When the Alyx customer emerges from a year of confinement, the demand for that kind of comfort-wear will only be stronger.What Williams does is part of a fashion revolution that isn’t going anywhere. Nearly two seasons into his artistic director job in the hallowed halls of Givenchy, that’s a fact. His fabrication-focused design methodology challenges the popular notion that his generation of designers is about creative direction rather than technical merit. Yet with his rapidly growing global platforms (next to Alyx and Givenchy, he also works with Moncler and Nike), if he wants to, Williams now has the superstructure to explore a more thematic approach; not necessarily a ‘reference’, but a big statement beyond the borders of materials. As far as his own evolution goes, it could be the natural next step.
|
Anders Christian Madsen
|
January 24, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/600da976544affcb3e0c4750/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-ALYX-MENSWEAR-FALL-21.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2021
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Alyx
|
fall-2021-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-menswear/alyx
|
Imbuing conventional dress codes with progressive values is, unsurprisingly, a big theme this men’s season. The social unrest of 2020 has made houses from Louis Vuitton to Hermès think beyond the surface of change. Now, fashion wants to change the meaning of its own codes entirely, and promote freedom of identity. As a drop in the new bloodline of designers flowing through the veins of the industry, Matthew Williams speaks that language. His co-ed collection for 1017 Alyx 9SM (say it ten times fast) continued his free game of mixing and matching the codes of traditional wardrobes through the fabrication-centric approach that defines his work.It’s an ongoing fortification of brand identity that never strays off focus. Even Williams’ show notes reflected it. Devoid of traditional spiels on inspiration, they offered instead a list of fabric and hardware developments and new accessories. “Alyx always keeps evolving the same silhouette and the same materials. The hardware is consistent,” the designer said on a video call from his sprawling apartment in Paris, a panoramic city view behind him. “It’s a stripping-back to where we began, and defining those codes again, and making them more consistent and solid. Because we weren’t doing a show, we wanted to reduce it down to exactly what was needed.”The pictures he released in place of his usual runway presentation showed a collage of twisted classics: massive teddy coats, super elongated denim jackets, various shape-shifting takes on puffers and parkas, body-con dresses, and suits developed by Caruso. Add the industrial buckle accessories Williams excels in, and the ‘ugly cool’ EVA-soled slides and mules adored by Gen Z superstars, and you’ve pretty much ticked every box on the young social media-fueled trend list. “Women’s materials are stretch, knitwear is cosy, shoes can just be slipped on. But you still feel ‘dressed’. It’s effortless,” he said, echoing the generational dressing mentality that created those trends in the first place. When the Alyx customer emerges from a year of confinement, the demand for that kind of comfort-wear will only be stronger.What Williams does is part of a fashion revolution that isn’t going anywhere. Nearly two seasons into his artistic director job in the hallowed halls of Givenchy, that’s a fact. His fabrication-focused design methodology challenges the popular notion that his generation of designers is about creative direction rather than technical merit. Yet with his rapidly growing global platforms (next to Alyx and Givenchy, he also works with Moncler and Nike), if he wants to, Williams now has the superstructure to explore a more thematic approach; not necessarily a ‘reference’, but a big statement beyond the borders of materials. As far as his own evolution goes, it could be the natural next step.
|
Anders Christian Madsen
|
January 24, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/600d419745612e3c356a8932/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-ALYX-MENSWEAR-FALL-21.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2021
|
menswear
|
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] |
|
Alyx
|
spring-2021-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2021-menswear/alyx
|
Before Matthew Williams’s appointment as the artistic director of Givenchy this spring, headlines about the American designer mostly had to do with the tactical pieces he designs for his own brand Alyx. Williams is partially responsible for the proliferation of the chest rig in 2018, and single handedly made a rollercoaster beck buckle a must-have item of the late 2010s. Despite the fact that Alyx started as a womenswear brand in 2015, it was Williams’s menswear innovations that got all the praise. In this, the fashion world did a bit of a disservice to Williams and his talent. As his spring 2021 collection shows, his sensitivity to bias cuts and embellishments, and his ability to finesse a silhouette align him more with the expressive world of womenswear than the hardcore energy of menswear.This collection, which combines both men’s and women’s pieces, is one of his most exciting at Alyx so far—a fact that is helped by the intimate lookbook images by Toyin Ibidapo. Much of the stiffness or strictness associated with his early work has been cut away, with jackets pared down to their most essential shapes and slip dresses constituting the majority of the womenswear offering. A twisting motif started in fall 2020 continues here as a silken overlay on a tank and evolves into a dress that looks as though a men’s shirt is wrapped around its bust. It’s something women will appreciate: elegant above the sternum and comfortable below the waist. Lace-trimmed skirts and tops with cinched leather busts round out the women’s-specific offering.Williams shows an obsessive attention to detail with his menswear and genderless pieces, the highlights of which are the completely studded jackets and slim trousers, made from semilune hand-applied studs. Williams estimates that about 12,000 studs go into each piece, each of which requires six days of labor to produce. Equally compelling are the embroidered studs seen on a monochromatic pair of trousers. Artisans work up the embroidery into pyramidal shapes for three days, resulting in a textured finish. Sort of like couture? “Although couture can only be made in Paris, I appreciate the compliment,” he says.The embellishments and embroideries are an extension of Williams’s growing interest in material development. The leather in this collection is specially treated with a resin finish for high shine. A new sneaker is 100% EVA polymer, sort of like a foam runner, while another is a mix of graduated perforated leathers. A faux snakeskin is pattern-matched from bandana to boot, and puffas are ultra slim with geometric cap sleeves hammered on with studs.One piece Williams is especially proud of—he notes that this collection was designed before COVID-19 lockdowns and nothing was changed as it went into production—is a short-sleeved shirt jacket, a kind of throw-on-and-go solution for men between the formality of a suit and the casualness of a camp shirt. Shoppers will like this, for sure, but they may like his new leather trench and trousers more. Alyx’s buckles have been removed and replaced with a new slim metal bar to dart the waist of the jacket and calf of the pant. The pieces are roomier and simpler than the strapped and cinched looks of early Alyx. Soft, elegant, considered. Though he says he is keeping Alyx and Givenchy as separate as Milan and Paris, this all bodes well for his debut.
|
Steff Yotka
|
September 10, 2020
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5f5b3c98f7b9cda4e87eb61f/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Alyx-RTW-Spring-2021.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2021
|
menswear
|
[
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] |
|
Ambush
|
spring-2025-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/ambush
|
School is still in session for Ambush’s Yoon Ahn, who is continuing her exploration of “Ambush Academy” for the label’s resort collection. “Fall was Ivy League, a more preppy kind of vibe; but this season we’re taking it to the quirky art class kids,” she explained on a Zoom call from Japan. “There’s more cuteness, it’s more eccentric, but there’s also a craftiness, as if we gave people ribbons and fabric and they put the clothes together themselves.”That vision shone through in basic pieces like white cotton tank tops had ribbons that tied across the chest, the purposely uneven knit of a chunky varsity-inspired cardigan, and clothes that were Frankenstein-ed together à la a button-up shirt with a knitted vest front, or the way the lining stuck out from the hem of tailored separates. There are frills galore, patchworked pieces, and a baseball sweater that reads: I’M OUT OF MY MIND PLEASE LEAVE A MESSAGE next to an illustration of a fairy.Pearl and crystal embellishments abound throughout. See the pearl wallet chain and lariat necklace, the spiked-bracelet made from pyramid-pearls, or the rhinestones embroidered haphazardly on jeans and less haphazardly on sheer knee-length skirts. The furry mary-janes are a sneak peek at an upcoming collaboration with Uggs. It’s a vision that recreates the exact way young people are dressing today; wearing micro-skirts with over-the knee socks, juxtaposing girly sheer twinsets with baggy sports-inspired jerseys, and sporting boxers as shorts, baby tees over slip dresses, and skirts over pants. Everything and anything goes, as long as it’s a representation of the wearer’s unique personal style.
|
Laia Garcia-Furtado
|
June 18, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/66719a8cd6512f11a02110d2/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-ambush-spring-2025-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2025
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Ambush
|
fall-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-ready-to-wear/ambush
|
If you’re a Gen-Xer or a millennial—or even the oldest of Gen-Z—then preppy equals varsity jackets, khakis, navy cricket sweaters, collegiate jerseys… you get the gist. “Preppy” conjures up images of frat boys in tailored shorts, boat shoes, and Lacoste polo shirts. There are Tommy Hilfiger, Abercrombie & Fitch, Ralph Lauren, J. Crew.If you’re Gen Alpha, however, at least according to TikTok, then “preppy” means something completely different: Stanley tumbler cups, pastel colored athleisure, cutesy smiley face graphics. But in designer Yoon Ahn’s imaginary high school, the one in which she’s been contextualizing her latest Ambush collections revolving around the school uniform, it’s the OG prep that counts.This generational split in fashion vernacular is the true indicator of who Ahn is speaking to with these clothes. There is a sense of nostalgia attached to the idea of a school uniform, whether you wore one or not, that only comes with hindsight—few teenagers actually enjoy having to wear the same thing every day. Add to that the overarching idea of collegiate Americana that became a prominent American aesthetic indicator by way of high school movies from the aughts. “We used to look up to America as the cultural leader,” said Ahn, “something aspirational through this aesthetic that became ingrained in people that is now something they want to revisit.”Prep was exported from the U.S. into the world to become a globalized aesthetic, one that is often more compelling—and cool—out of context. That was the case with this lineup, which Ahn said she created by researching imagery of preppiness in American literature and by vintage hunting in Japan, (“Japan has an obsession with Americana,” she noted). There was a coolness to her varsity knits and the treatment of “Ambush” as a team or school logo, and the subtraction of the argyle sweater motif as cutouts on a poplin shirt and patchworks of flannels and rugby shirts showcased her playful ingenuity as a designer.Ahn said that what attracted her to this preppy Americana uniform was not just the nostalgia, but that there is “a steadiness to the aesthetic.” This same stability is what Ahn has been chasing after with her thematic examination of the uniform in her collections. “Although the theme might change every season, I always make sure that whatever I made last season can carry on to the next,” she said, adding, “we all now shop without disregarding what we wore in the winter just because we’re about to go into spring.” Regardless of what we call it, there is a consistency to the idea of “preppy.” Four seasons deep in the world of uniforms, there is now one to Ambush, too.
|
José Criales-Unzueta
|
February 21, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/65d72a6f4b6b6e6f7977fef9/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-ambush-fall-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Ambush
|
spring-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/ambush
|
Do you have a personal uniform? Most fashion-minded folks live in one of two camps: Under the assumption that their style is more involved and wider-reaching than the concept of a uniform, or with the belief that their outfits all fall under a unique—but uniformal—personal aesthetic.If you ask Ambush designer Yoon Ahn, most people fall somewhere in the middle. Wedohave uniforms but they are not individual. “I think uniforms show the reflection of human psychology,” said the designer, Zooming from Tokyo. “As much as we like to be individualistic and expressive, we consciously or subconsciously always fall back into a ‘category.’” For Ahn, it all simmers down to our yearning for belonging, and, particularly today, relates to a “very modern digital mentality.” Need proof? Scroll down your TikTok For You page—lots of “personal style,” yet most mere versions of one viral trend.For three seasons now, this spring lineup included, Ahn has been riffing off the idea of uniform dressing. This approach stands on three legs: First, Ahn finds the idea of uniforms interesting: “and I started to loosely focus on the school theme because I thought it would be a fun playground to build on this concept,” she said. Second, it’s a challenge: “I like taking one single theme and seeing how we can spread it and turn it into something much more interesting and fashion.” Third, it’s a good business approach: “It’s becoming more clear to me how I want to define what our world is around this, and I think it’s given a strong identity to our apparel storytelling.”For spring, Ahn took her class out into the field. “After last season’s rave collection, I wanted some brightness,” she said. This meant lighter fabrics and more play on the sporty side of high school uniforms: track sets, varsity jerseys, and some very cool skirts and corsets with football lacing. “I think it’s a quite charming collection,” she said. Sheer shorts and soccer tees with bedazzled numbers supported that statement. They added some playful lightness to the assortment, as did a generous amount of bow details (though some looks were borderline saccharine). Most impactful and significantly cooler were the distressed hems on knitwear and cut-off tailoring. Here, the designer found inspiration in the “attitude, angst, and rebellious spirit” of the rock music coming from the tail end of the ’90s and the early 2000s.There’s something fascinatingly meta about Ahn building a sartorial code for her Ambush devotees by grabbing the notion of a school uniform and blending it with the idiosyncratic style of the people that inspire her (she mentioned the likes of Fiona Apple and Kim Gordon). It will be curious to see this version of Ambush run wild on the streets. How do you craft a uniform that is both inspired by folks who rejected every norm and appeals to fashion people who are convinced they dress in everything but? We’ll find out soon enough—Ambush’s fall collection, the first in this trilogy, just delivered in stores.
|
José Criales-Unzueta
|
September 29, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/64f0915629435ebf7c4d9d1c/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-ambush-spring-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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]
] |
|
Ambush
|
fall-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/ambush
|
The death of personal style has been a trending topic of conversation among fashion-philes. Newsletters, personal essays, trend recaps—fashion writers seem to be preoccupied with the state ofindividuality, and by the fact that, despite our best efforts, we all seem to dress the same. But it’s not that we all look like carbon-copies of each other, it’s that we’re alllookingat similar things. Our individuality is informed by variations of the same things—we have access to everything, but algorithms and taxonomies and “for you” pages…they all show us a blend of similar source material.This was the backdrop of Yoon’s fall 2023 Ambush collection. “I like to mix elements that inspire me, finding a good balance between them inmyworld,” the designer said over breakfast—she was in New York to host a rave with Nike—“but there’s always an underlying social study. I’m curious as to why people act a certain way or react to certain things.”Last season Yoon recreated a rave scene; for fall “the kids partied too much so they got sent to private school.” She’s intrigued by the notion of adding individuality to something as restrictive as a uniform. How can one find identity within monotony? For Yoon, the answer is in the details. There were trippy double waistbands on tailored shorts and trousers; button-downs and jackets cut to drape around the shoulders and held in place by grommet-clad straps; charcoal knits with their hems distressed; varsity jackets with an extra layer of leather on the bodices; oversized blazers and coats with harnesses across the chest; and leather jackets with spray painted graphics. You can take the kids out of the rave, but not the rave out of the kids.Yoon’s influences this time around included Aphex Twin and K-Pop group New Jeans, Japanese private school uniforms, Kinji Fukasaku’s cult 2000 filmBattle Royale, and dark techno. The techno set the pace for this season. Yoon tends to tie in her collections to music, and the repetitive nature of the genre’s beat helped guide the uniform concept. “It’s not as twisted or colorful as a rave,” she said, “it’s repetitive and a little darker.”Fashion of late has been looking at uniforms because of their ripeness for subversion. There’s irony in wearing a school uniform to a rave or a fashion show, but what happens when uniforms are…the uniform? “If you look at the big picture, some people say they exercise their individuality, but everyone still puts on the same uniform of a certain trope that they play,” Yoon said.There’s truth in that—look at any street style gallery and you’ll spot all the fashion archetypes. Influencers dress a certain way because they think that’s how they’re supposed to look, ditto editors and designers. We play the same archetypes we assign to ourselves over and over and over. As Yoon said, “we never really graduate from high school.”
|
José Criales-Unzueta
|
February 18, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/63e3a3835981be169366154c/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-ambush-fall-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Ambush
|
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/ambush
|
This was a multi-pass Ambush collection, offering direct wearable access to two distant worlds: 1990s Tokyo clubland and contemporary MMO avatar culture. Chatting down the Zoom (which should with luck be our last, as Runway is reverting to pre-pandemic protocols for reviewing), Yoon observed: “It’s our own rave, a full-on party. I thought about how you put on a different persona when you go out; you pick a player through which to play the game. It also kind of ties into the metaverse and those activities that I’ve been building around Ambush in order to see what kind of clothes can actually eventually become like avatar characters. So it was a collection of all that stuff. But most importantly, it is a rave.”The bunny-, bear-, and mouse-eared balaclavas seemed like a blatant play on those gaming-platform aesthetics Yoon was riffing on, as did her rebooted version of the ’90sTank Girl/Buffalo boot that is everywhere, online and off, right now. The metallic personal CD players (actually card cases, Yoon said) and cat-ear headphones were funny throwbacks too. There were woo-woo chill-out-room light-show patterns in sequined shirts and print dresses and skirts. Opaque croc-pressed workwear and A-chain mesh dresses were for more transparently inclined characters. Leather leg warmers, bikini tops in mesh and Lycra, leather chaps with popper-secured side fastenings, corset crop tops, cropped (faux) fur jackets, baggy denim, and podium-poser miniskirts were all pieces you’d love to have at your disposal before a night spent next to the subwoofers.Yoon added that many of the looks would help you fit in before sunset too: “A lot of the pieces, especially the outerwear, are reversible so you can wear a look as a suit, maybe even go to work in it, and then flip it into something wilder to go out in afterward.” She added: “I had a lot of fun making it. There’s a lot of colors and textures that are clashing with each other in a massive way, like a crazy tune.”
|
Luke Leitch
|
October 12, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/63394fbdf95c8de4e7d9fb44/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-ambush-spring-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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]
] |
|
Ambush
|
resort-2023
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2023/ambush
|
“The touchpoint and the root of every Ambush collection has to come from everything that happens in Japan that is unique,” said Yoon Ahn when we met at the very beginning of Paris Fashion Week. Given that she has been on that scene since the early 2000s, when she moved to Tokyo with her family, not to mention that the Ambush office sits right in Shibuya, Yoon has plenty of material to mine. This pre-collection represented a down-tempo interlude in Ambush’s rhythm of show season spectacular, and was more observationaL. The collection was designed as an imagined curation of the clothes she sees on the kids who are flocking back to Shibuya today. “Things are opening up, the clubs: everything's coming back in Tokyo. I've been feeling that.”Tailoring, sportswear, footwear, nylon-spliced denim, and of course this brand’s core category of jewelry was all effectively designed to be defined less by the wearer’s gender identity than their aesthetic orientation and subcultural proclivity. The classics covered, from Ambush specific bodice tops and kimono coats to standards including bowling shirts and tracksuits, were adroitly but subtly remixed through tweaks in proportion, color, and fabrication. Pills and mushrooms came suspended from safety pin earrings and chains, supplies brought in for a big night ahead. This though was a collection built for street life: night life comes later.
|
Luke Leitch
|
June 27, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/62b5d76d52aa4a13bcbbb743/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-ambush-resort-2023-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2023
|
[
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] |
||
Ambush
|
fall-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/ambush
|
Drones and sirens and red flashing lights were the welcome to Ambush’s debut catwalk show in Milan. When another journalist said the atmosphere made her uncomfortable after the show, designer Yoon Ahn balked: “I think it’s beautiful,” she said. Fashion has struggled to keep prodding forward with its planned shows while war rages in Ukraine, but a show soundtracked by white noise distorted to sound like the crush of whirring helicopters is probably not the right note to hit.Nevertheless, Ambush’s catwalk debut strutted on with a collection that played to the diversity of Ahn’s strengths and interests. She loves a platform shoe in her own life, and this season hers were buckled up to the knee. Black leather played with fetish, a recurring obsession, while heart-shaped bags and cut-outs veered into cuteness. Big shearling outerwear was contrasted with small, cropped shearling parkas and skin was everywhere—including a skirt with a slit up the back so high it revealed a flash of derrière.The most worthy pieces were the ones where Ahn had taken material development as her mission. Heavy dresses made from plastic beads felt the most fresh, whirring with each step. Ditto the leather vests made from interlacing laser-cut letter As; the motif repeated as A-A-A chainmail. These ideas felt born from Ahn’s jewelry practice and thus the most enticing and personal of the bunch. For her next runway, here’s hoping for more along this thread. And maybe a calmer, less aggressive vibe in the room.
|
Steff Yotka
|
February 26, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/621a995a6fa3437b64e86af2/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-ambush-fall-2022-ready-to-wear-milan-credit-salvatore-dragone-gorunway.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2022
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Ambush
|
pre-fall-2022
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2022/ambush
|
Dressed in pink faux fur while eating Bircher muesli at the breakfast bar of her hotel (where Arsène Wenger was also installed), Yoon Ahn on Saturday morning pivoted her attention from her supporting role at Kim Jones’ “Dior-core” delight (props,ACM) to her own Ambush main event. Refreshingly frank, she said: “Since we expanded from jewelry into clothing it’s been a process of experimentation. And I’m not going to pretend I’ve got all the answers. But after a few seasons of doing apparel, I’m starting to understand there are certain things I keep coming back to and developing. And I think it is these things that must be me.”Next month we are going to see the debut Ambush show, long overdue, presented in Milan. This is where the Ambush studio, sibling in the New Guards stable of labels including Off-White and Marcelo Burlon, is physically based. But speaking refreshingly in-person with this Tokyo-based creative made it clear she is operating on a level beyond borders. The one adjective she kept returning to when considering both this “Workshop” collection (the term under which Ambush pre collections are categorized) and next month’s “Wardrobe & Artisanal” (mainline) was “sensual”—yet she was sanguine about the domain in which the senses of her audience are currently aroused.This season there was an emphasis on the sustainable, with this young brand’s first committed foray into organic and recycled fabrication. The second emphasis was on technology—apparently a treatment applied to the collection’s knits means they alter coloration according to the light—and injected panel outerwear designed to maximize volume and minimize weight. These were all preambles to a collection to come that is still manifesting but which is taking fascinating shape.
|
Luke Leitch
|
January 24, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/61eff6d3eded0ce0d0be11f2/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Ambush-New-PreFall-22-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
pre-fall
|
2022
|
[
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] |
||
Ambush
|
spring-2022-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-menswear/ambush
|
The first 20 looks in this spring Ambush collection are part of a new seasonal capsule named Wksp—short for ‘workshop’ and dispensing with the ‘r’ and the ‘h’ as well as the more regularly marginalized vowels. Unlike the title, this collection read as near-fully formed: a functionally geeky, technically-rendered fashion sportswear proposition that was subtly branded, punchily colored, and featured an attractively abstract heat-map print by Hagihara Takuya. Down the Zoom from Tokyo, Yooh Ahn said: “I’ve been doing a lot of outdoor activities which got me thinking how I could bring reality to a daily wardrobe without making it mundane.” This first edition, she added, was mountaineering inspired. “It’s something seperate to the main collection but which can co-exist alongside it,” she added.Continuing the ascent at around look 20 the atmosphere changed to something softer and hand-rendered in a black crochet shirtdress embroidered with flowers from which hung colored pieces of wool. The tactility and texture of crochet developed as the chief theme across the collection, reproduced by slicing into leather coats, a lemon skirt, and a lavender shirtfront. Alongside it ran an attractively botanical inspired element that included a skirt and bodice both fringed with tussocks of green stem-like cord and later—in the collection’s more overtly hand-fashioned final section—an unmissable abstract wildflower kaleidoscope in sequin.The menswear, especially in that opening section, was executed with typical deftness while the womenswear marked a more confident pitch at the conventionally feminine than has been seen at Ambush previously. Said Ahn: “Femininity has strength. And I wasn’t trying to hide this before, it’s more that we are still quite young with apparel and I have been spending more time on the men’s line because we have more men’s customers. And now I just feel more comfortable doing womenswear in a way that she doesn’t necessarily have to be like the girlfriend of that guy, but they need to live in the same universe.”
|
Luke Leitch
|
June 29, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/60d985c828198051b1f03c6e/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Ambush-Mens-SS22-credit-%20brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2022
|
menswear
|
[
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] |
|
Ambush
|
fall-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/ambush
|
Not unlike the source material for many of her most celebrated found-object jewelry pieces—safety pins, chain links, zip ties, carabiniers—Yoon Ahn is holding things together. Framed by a Zoom backdrop of pastel clouds, Ahn said from Tokyo that this collection was a continuation of last season’s project to “lay the ground” for Ambush’s future visual and wearable language. And now that the label is produced under the New Guards Group banner in Italy (Japanese denim aside), she has an expansive territory to shape.One major consideration, she said, was to set about building garments that are both comfortable and givecomfort, “that bring that mental state.” To create said state, Ahn shaped pieces designed to fire a sensation of specialness—“I don’t want to forget that feeling”—yet which: “become part of our daily life so that we can enjoy them more frequently.”That was articulated in flexibly cut dresses punctuated with sequins, cutouts, and chain-link hardwear, a bomber jacket dress skirted in rib knit, and forgiving but unconventionally cut tailoring for men and women in voluminous silhouettes with activewear detailing: pieces to generate both impact and ease. Kimono-collared down jackets and saturated color, full-length shearlings played outerwear facade. Shoes included rubberized leather rain boots with square heels and faux fur slippers. Bags featuredA-shaped metal handles on a new crossbody model; this hardware, along with the jewelry detailing on some of the ready-to-wear, were the loudest examples of visual branding in a collection that eschewed shouty logos or graphic-based messaging in favor of a more discreet approach.This collection was an effective chapter in Ahn’s ongoing narrative, and one which opened up various possible plot twists ahead. Some of the most recognizable pieces created by Ahn as a jewelry designer have been based on those found objects: by re-contextualizing and reconfiguring these objects, she renders them “special” as jewelry through the prism of her design process. Working out how, or if, to adapt this genre-defying approach—an approach that ambushes our preconceptions—to the much broader yet physically specific context of clothing (ready-to-wear Readymades) is a fascinating challenge whose answer might just lurk in Ahn’s instinctive collision of specialness and comfort.
|
Luke Leitch
|
February 1, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6014473cb7d258f84697afdb/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Ambush-Fall-21.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2021
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Amiri
|
spring-2025-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-menswear/amiri
|
As well as British jazzman Yussef Dayes playing up in the bandstand—awesome—this Amiri outing featured plenty of performers from across contemporary culture who were here just to watch and listen. Christian Nodal seemed especially taken with both Dayes’s flow and Amiri’s show. We were back in the Jardin des Plantes. Following last season’s old Hollywood production, the designer tweaked his focus from screen to stage to build new medleys over his rapidly expanding catalog of house standards.His big bandleader jackets were wide of shoulder and low of skirt, providing drape and movement down from high-tied shirt ribbons to mid-thigh on skinny-hipped bootcut pants. This silhouette epitomizes the 2020s remake of a ’90s movie about the ’50s approach that works so well for him.Exploring the birth of cool (Miles Davis was mentioned) through a contemporary prism, Amiri applied crystal detailing over patterns on tailoring and knitwear. Embroidered florals were layered over tonal monogram print on camp collar shirts. Smart two-tone loafers gleamed with keepsake hardware. The intense pastel accents on knits and outerwear contrasted with monochrome, camel, and washed indigo. Amiri is not too shy to play his codes on repeat, and there were new versions of his drum bags and embroidered satin jackets.Said Amiri: “We can sell clothes, which is great. But the goal for an artist is to create emotion. I want people to look at something and make them dream a bit.” Dreamy as look was feel: A quick backstage check confirmed the lightness and flex of tailoring that was the equivalent of a 1955 Chevrolet Bel Air retrofitted by Tesla. It was fun to see the designer’s sons at the show, collating their own mixtapes of future-memories and codes.
|
Luke Leitch
|
June 20, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/66745d8642396d6d571ad82a/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-amiri-spring-2025-menswear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2025
|
menswear
|
[
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|
Amiri
|
fall-2024-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-menswear/amiri
|
One of many interesting details in Samuel Hines’ excellent new GQpieceabout Mike Amiri is that the designer graduated summa cum laude from his history major at UCLA. Seeing the pattern of human behavior across time—how politics, morals, and aesthetics swing back and forth through the centuries and decades, with only the occasional jolt of disruption or breakthrough to upset the rhythm—is a pretty powerful asset for a fashion designer. Tonight Amiri showed his understanding of that pattern with a collection that retold overlapping moments from the past in a way that you suspect will strongly appeal to those currently inhabiting the present.The context of the collection was LA, Amiri’s home turf and a city where he, I’m told, has become more widely worn than anywhere else. The set was loosely staged after the auditorium of a movie theater from the talkies era. The clothes, ingeniously, mixed their references from two periods further down the line; the 1950s and the 1990s. Said Amiri: “I was thinking of the mid-’90s era young actors, like a young DiCaprio, as they were at the cusp of their breakthroughs—becoming real cinema artists from their TV beginnings. So they’re dressing up but still being themselves. You’d see tailoring that almost looked thrifted in some ways, and mixed so that it gave you that chance to show up to something formal, but with a bit of informality in your own personality.”The results played out as finely as the jazz clarinet—smooth—on an excellent soundtrack. Amiri’s wearable encapsulations of the metamorphosis into aspirational maturity mixed ’90s kick pant shapes with revival ’50s motifs including softly boxy lounge suit jacket shapes (OG Brioni) and luxuriously realized out of time textures like fleck. Jacquards depicted Old Hollywood landmarks. There was a new house monogram that had its own historical echoes. Skate sneakers, luxe-grungy cardigan knits and jeweled beanies were amongst the fresher generational accents.Referring to his movie theater set, the designer said: “There’s this David Lynch quote that I love, where he says: “curtains can be both hiding and revealing.” There’s that feeling of mystery in waiting to see what comes next.”
|
Luke Leitch
|
January 18, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/65a9670d7f4dea47e26d3fff/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-amiri-fall-2024-mens-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2024
|
menswear
|
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]
] |
|
Amiri
|
spring-2024-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-menswear/amiri
|
There’s an endearing ingenuity to Mike Amiri. His clothes are as earnest as his approach to dreaming up the stories that support them. This season, the Amiri character is enjoying a transatlantic adventure, traveling from his native California in search of a European summer. The south of France is his destination.The story is not unfamiliar to Amiri. “I’ve been coming to Paris so much to do the shows, and our presence has really been growing here,” he said backstage. “I wanted to connect that growth to the man and his evolving aesthetic.”The show took place at the Jardin des Plantes, with models crisscrossing the gardens on their way to a gravel runway with a bar at its center hosting influencers and celebrities. The venue lent itself to Amiri’s seasonal story. Highlights included shirts and long shorts made with woven leather in a nod to Parisian bistro chairs, tweedy pieces with floral embellishments on the shoulders (“picture him walking through a garden and the flowers from trees are sticking on his shoulders,” Amiri said), and floral pins made with leftover fabrics.Amiri referenced two time periods: the ’50s and the ’90s, blending the tailoring proportions of the former and the ease of the latter. Most compelling were those tweeds cut into relaxed shirt-and-shorts sets, and bouclés dotted with Swarovski crystals. Leaving the lining fabric to hang off short legs as if the Amiri guy had cut his trousers was a nice touch.There’s been a shift in menswear. Street wear has been replaced by jackets and shorts and dressed-down tailoring. But the truth is that not every man is shopping for a suit. “You have to feel comfortable in whatever you wear,” said Amiri, “Even if fashion evolves, you yourself have to be able to wear it, and not let it wear you.”
|
José Criales-Unzueta
|
June 22, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/649495db5064f63dbb6a63a7/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-amiri-spring-2024-menswear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2024
|
menswear
|
[
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] |
|
Amiri
|
fall-2023-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-menswear/amiri
|
Mike Amiri’s runway was floored with an enormous simulacrum of a vinyl record—way bigger than 12 inch—and up on stage alongside tight live accompaniment none other than DJ Premier was mixing the soundtrack. “Nostalgia is super important to me,” said Amiri backstage. “When I was a kid, whether you were a DJ, a basketball player, or a skater, you listened to Gang Starr, you listened to Premier—that’s what you were obsessed with.”The musical producer informed the producer of fashion beyond providing the soundtrack. Amiri said his time discussing DJ Premier’s musical processes—sampling, mixing, reinterpreting, and reinventing—had infused this collection. Once those models were on the runway, walking the vinyl grooves in Amiri’s skate shoes like they were each a fashion-formed stylus, you saw that the designer had returned in part to that golden age of American menswear, the 1950s. Models carried record crates wearing gabardine jackets with diamond check paneling and cardigan sweaters and knit short-sleeves with elegant branded patterning.Many models wore varieties of Amiri’s newsboy cap, a personal gesture relating to his ’90s headwear of choice, and sported sweaters and jackets featuring graphics from an imagined Amiri record label; on the sleeve of one Varsity jacket was inscribed, “Some artists make music. Some artists make history.” Record crates aside, bags included a cool little tote designed to resemble an Akai MPC sampler/sequencer and record sleeve folios.There were fresh reconstructions of the designer’s remixed take on suiting—unified but never rigid or constricting—in top-to-toe looks of frayed, thread-haloed silk, croc-embossed and bleach-blotched leather, and patterned brushed cashmere. Evening versions included bodaciously sequin-strafed button-downs and pants, some in a sort of camo-like pattern Amiri said was originally assembled from studio scraps collected and compiled: “it’s about making something from almost nothing.”Amiri itself has gone from-not-quite nothing—a scrappy Cali denim start-up that blasted its product by shotgun for patina—to something very considerable in a few short years thanks to the founder’s determination and a powerfully enabling group of supporters. Backstage one of those, Diesel’s Renzo Rosso, likened this emerging American powerhouse to a potential “modern Vuitton.” Amiri demurred at such a bold description—“I definitely wouldn’t say that!”—then added: “one person who I definitely look up to is Mr. Tom Ford and I’ve been fortunate enough to have some conversations with him. He is someone who has been himself undeniably from the beginning and presented something that is undeniably good. Now his place alongside the European houses is unquestioned. If anything, I’d probably most love to be considered a branch of his tree.” And why not shoot for the stars?
|
Luke Leitch
|
January 20, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/63c98df21944dc168acdfd84/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-amiri-fall-2023-menswear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2023
|
menswear
|
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] |
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