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Alexander Mcqueen
|
resort-2023
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2023/alexander-mcqueen
|
If there’s one thing Sarah Burton has mastered, it’s how to take a very English sense of romance—a full-skirted gown, a floral motif, lavish embroidery—and lend it a perfectly judged (and, come to think of it, equally English) dose of edge. It was a pleasure, then, to see her lean further into the darker and more dangerous territory she’s been exploring over the past few seasons, from sleek, sculptural leather jackets and skirts, to the deliciously kinky studded eyelets and harnesses that decorated shirting, accessories, and a handful of sleeveless blazer dresses.So too, were there plenty of satisfying parallels with Burton’s spring 2023 collection, which premiered last month under a bubble-like dome placed in the central expanse of Greenwich’s Old Royal Naval College, and saw her lean into some of her predecessor’s racier instincts. Notably via slashed, tummy-baring blazers, and—perhaps most notably of all—the return of Lee McQueen’s infamous bumster pants, folding their eye-popping flash of buttock into razor-sharp tailoring to offer a surprisingly refined new spin on this most divisive of ’90s trends.For resort, Burton also experimented with deconstructed, skin-baring tailoring, whether a calf-length, caped blazer-dress hybrid with cutaway sleeves in a sumptuously thick black wool, or a particularly desirable jacket nipped and slashed at the waist to create a cocoon-like, sculptural seat, with crystals embroidered across the shoulders to create a kind of harness. For all their opulence, the clothes are grounded in a genuine spirit of practicality too; a green cotton jacket with bouffant sleeves that could easily be worn with a pair of jeans, or a calico trench coat with panel details and parka-like laces to cinch the waist on the fly.As a pre-collection, it’s only natural that it should have a more wearable bent. But a series of statement eveningwear pieces taking their cues from Burton’s ongoing fascination with astronomy—a one-shouldered gown lavished with crystals and sequins inspired by the milky glow of star constellations, or jackets with astral embroidery across the lapels—served as the most compelling reminder of Burton’s extraordinary ability to blend romance with reality. As always, it’s when Burton lets herself get swept away into her more whimsical flights of fancy (and, by extension, sweeps you away along with her) that her distinctive vision of hard-edged glamour dazzles most—and her star-studded, night sky-inspired confections achieved a thrilling sense of lift-off.
|
Liam Hess
|
November 17, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/636e8a96f0216316362c105f/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexander-mcqueen-resort-2023-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2023
|
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||
Alexander Mcqueen
|
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen
|
On a sparkling October day in London, a drone was hovering over the splendid Greenwich Naval College, recording the goings-on in a transparent bubble that had landed in the middle of Sir Christopher Wren’s 17th century landmark. It seemed a symbolic irony that the mechanical eye-in-the-sky—a standard device these days for recording fashion spectacles—must have been surveilling the focus of Sarah Burton’s collection hundreds of feet below. The human eye.“The eye is the most unique symbol of humanity—each one is like a fingerprint; each one is completely individual,” she said, explaining the enlarged prints and raffia-fringed images of irises, pupils, and eyelashes embedded in dresses and spilling over a trouser suit. That thought gave her the impetus to begin to grapple with layers of themes that the house of McQueen has always been concerned with: nature and technology, deep history and present fears.“It’s sort of about seeing things again,” she said. “Not walking around with your eyes shut, your eyes down. Just seeing each other, recognizing each others’ humanity. Caring about each other.” But against that, she also meant that having open eyes on the world means taking on terrors. Burton recently re-read Orwell’s1984. “That played into it as well: how do you find human contact in the world we live in, in the world of technology?”And then, she’d taken a good look at Hieronymus Bosch’sGarden of Earthly Delights, in a book with zoomed-in detail of the artist’s ghastly imaginings in a setting surrounded by flowers and fountains. There were Bosch demons battling with angels in Alexander McQueen’s posthumous collection. Burton was asked why she returned to the reference, to adorn some sections of the collection in patterns and embroideries after Bosch. “It’s the times we’re living in now, she said. “It feels like almost like we’re in another Dark Ages in many ways. It’s something we’ve always looked at, at McQueen. Life, death, destruction, beauty. It’s all there. Maybe,” she reflected, “it’s what people do to each other actually. And then, the beauty right next to it. So there’s this strange juxtaposition of humanity behaving in one way, and nature in another.”But we’re getting away from how her collection looked. Besides the decorative narratives, out came clean, sharp tailoring. Look two: a revival of McQueen’s bumsters, with a cropped tuxedo jacket cut into sharp points at the front and the rest of it balanced to swing at the back. There are generations that have never heard of bumsters—Alexander McQueen invented that explosive downward shift of pant design in the 1990s. But the red-hot relevance of torso-exposure, and clothes designed to expose slices of naked flesh needs no explanation to new eyes.“It’s how would you adjust the proportion of a woman's body? I feel like it’s always about a woman dressing for a woman,” she added. “ So it’s not a male gaze. I wanted to sort of embrace the female form; to sort of slice away in a very kind of dissected way.”She pursued that idea through different tactics, in swooped-fronted tailored jumpsuits, knitted dresses fashioned in tiered strips leaving open slices of negative space, and in half-open panels aerating romantic full-skirted evening dresses at the finale.The references to the touchstones of the work of her late boss felt timely in this collection. Sarah Burton is designing in a different world, but the themes she brought to bear, and the skills inherent in the house resonate more than ever today.
|
Sarah Mower
|
October 11, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6345998c942e8f8986734c47/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexander-mcqueen-spring-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Alexander Terekhov
|
russia-fall-2015
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/russia-fall-2015/alexander-terekhov
|
Founded by: Alexander TerekhovYear established: 2004Known for: Elegant womenswear with clean silhouettes and an inclination for extravagant patterned or metallic fabricsStocked at: Opening Ceremony
|
style.com
|
March 31, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650b608298d8be214e044/master/w_1280,c_limit/alexander-terekhov-001-1366.jpg"
] |
russia
|
fall
|
2015
|
[
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]
] |
|
Alexander Wang
|
resort-2025-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2025-menswear/alexander-wang
|
On his brand Instagram account, Alexander Wang is offering Wangovers to tourists and locals he meets in the South Street Seaport neighborhood where he’s headquartered. It’s compulsively watchable content, not least of all because the people who agree to his proposals aren’t typical Wang customers. He’s made over a Bronx granny and a Westchester mom and a Connecticut construction worker with hair, makeup, and a new wardrobe—the works—and when he’s done with them you can just about believe that any one of them is making it past the bouncer and into the club.Wang’s press materials outline his new resort collection’s fundamentals as holiday dressing, subverted suiting, and velour tracksuits, but in palette, silhouette, and styling these clothes are all in fact club ready. Or maybe make that avatar ready? The designer said he and his team were inspired by “hyper-extended AI realities” to create what he described as a “computer generated look.” The concept comes across most clearly in the bandage dresses with honeycombs of peekaboo cutouts that seem to defy gravity, but it also applies to the exaggerated shape of a goat hair hoodie and the boots that look like extensions of the legs.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
November 20, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/673daed006481ae16288197c/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexander-wang-resort-2025-menswear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2025
|
menswear
|
[
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]
] |
|
Alexander Wang
|
resort-2025
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2025/alexander-wang
|
On his brand Instagram account, Alexander Wang is offering Wangovers to tourists and locals he meets in the South Street Seaport neighborhood where he’s headquartered. It’s compulsively watchable content, not least of all because the people who agree to his proposals aren’t typical Wang customers. He’s made over a Bronx granny and a Westchester mom and a Connecticut construction worker with hair, makeup, and a new wardrobe—the works—and when he’s done with them you can just about believe that any one of them is making it past the bouncer and into the club.Wang’s press materials outline his new resort collection’s fundamentals as holiday dressing, subverted suiting, and velour tracksuits, but in palette, silhouette, and styling these clothes are all in fact club ready. Or maybe make that avatar ready? The designer said he and his team were inspired by “hyper-extended AI realities” to create what he described as a “computer generated look.” The concept comes across most clearly in the bandage dresses with honeycombs of peekaboo cutouts that seem to defy gravity, but it also applies to the exaggerated shape of a goat hair hoodie and the boots that look like extensions of the legs.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
November 20, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/673db05e1d7d4a2b80a4cc45/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexander-wang-resort-2025-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2025
|
[
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] |
||
Alexander Wang
|
fall-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-ready-to-wear/alexander-wang
|
Alexander Wang has opened a new store at the Fontainebleau in Las Vegas. At an appointment at his showroom in the South Street Seaport (also new), he reported that the store reached its monthly goal on the first day of business. Maybe that’s because the pre-fall collection on the racks is so well suited to Vegas’s oasis-in-the-desert milieu—not because it’s skin baring and sexy—all Wang collections are these days—but because of its mood.“She’s kind of a postapocalyptic showgirl,” Wang said. “I was inspired by this idea of Mad Max going through downtown Vegas. We were thinking of motorcycles and other vehicles covered in exhaust.” The denim and leather look sun bleached and desert weathered—Wang called it “pre-aged”—while the padded shoulders on zip-front jackets evoke the late Tina Turner, star ofMad Max Beyond Thunderdome, and the primal decadence of her Aunty Entity chain mail. Hotfix-crystal camisoles and cocktail dresses add a bit of Vegas-strip glitz, and for a showgirl’s off-hours, there are track pants and athletic shorts with a liquid sheen.The fall collection pictured here also revs at idle with its emphasis on motocross leathers, heavy-duty black jeans, faux-fur jackets, and hip-high cuissards. His recently introduced Ricco bag, with its “trap” (trapezoidal) stud detailing, has multiplied, with many new iterations in different materials and shapes, including one that looks a lot like a football, a callback to his sporty spring 2010 collection.Wang knows Vegas from childhood trips. “I always used to go there with my family for Chinese New Year. It was a big Chinese New Year destination.” So what did he make ofFuriosa? “Oh, I’m always a fan of the original.” If and when George Miller does make anotherMad Maxmovie, he could give the designer a ring.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
August 29, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/66b490bda6cf5d0902acc995/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexander-wang-fall-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Alexander Wang
|
pre-fall-2024
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2024/alexander-wang
|
The backside of a black car was sticking out of a window on the Grand Street side of Alexander Wang’s Soho store last night. A crash scene? That’s what CCTV video posted to his Instagram Stories earlier in the day suggested.Talk about a loaded metaphor! His brand is about to turn 20, but provocation has long been part of its DNA and Wang, that car crash footage made clear, isn’t pulling back now. Inside, the boutique was transformed into a sort of deconstructed den of iniquity, with piles of money (faux), a pair of tanning beds (real), and a fireplace (electric) with a sportscar mantle. The first model out, wearing a full-zip bodysuit and sheer tights, crushed a cocktail glass in her hand before making her way around the space, signaling the zero-fucks-given vibe of the night. Also mood-setting: Kim Catrall, brash Samantha toSex and the City’s Carrie, was in the audience and basketball’s erstwhile bad boy Dennis Rodman walked the runway.The collection was top-of-the-line Wang: downtown, sexy and skin-baring, and with what seemed like a heavier than usual emphasis on leather. The leather came embellished with studs and cut into a roomy bomber, stamped with a croc pattern and draped into an asymmetrical dress, or used for the thigh-scraping wader boots with straps up the back that accompanied many of the looks. Denim, another mainstay, was downplayed, but a pair of washed and faded low-slung jeans and an oversized shirt looked good, less night out at the club, more street-ready in the old-school Alexander Wang way.Rodman modeled a roomy leather track suit and Slick Woods, who sported a similar red dye job but not the Ricco studs that the basket baller had glued to his head (the Ricco bag being Wang’s big relaunch this year), was wearing a velour version of the same silhouette. Athleisure or loungewear—whatever we’re calling it these days—is another brand fundamental chez Wang post-pandemic, and a bustier and narrow floor-length skirt made novel use of sweatshirt material. On the dressier side, stretch jersey was spliced and shaped into flared-hem leggings or tube skirts, and a wiggle dress, all with a latticework of peekaboo cut-outs. Origami’d blazers made cool accompaniments to the leggings and skirts.As the show emptied out onto Grand Street, a crowd of people were overheard talking about an after-party. Any one of Wang’s looks could’ve walked straight off the runway and into the bash and looked right.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
June 6, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/66b48b7dcd8ad1389a0aea67/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexander-wang-pre-fall-2024-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
pre-fall
|
2024
|
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] |
||
Alexander Wang
|
spring-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/alexander-wang
|
Alexander Wang wasn’t on the New York Fashion Week calendar, but that doesn’t mean that the designer or his brand have gone dark. The company recently relocated from Chinatown to a large, bright space at the South Street Seaport. Wang and his team now occupy two floors of the building where Carla Sozzani’s 10 Corso Como outpost used to be. The showroom has views of the Brooklyn Bridge, and in signature Wang fashion, there are black calla lilies, Byredo Loveless candles, and speakers built into the walls that pump out a rotation of curated playlists at different sound levels depending on the space.Of this see-now, buy-now spring 2024 collection he said, it’s “really this idea of the concrete jungle.” Thinking about new erogenous zones, he added vertical slits to the front of loose-fitting pants—which is a developing trend also seen at Phoebe Philo and Daniel Lee’s Burberry, where functional zippers allowed for adaptability. At Wang, the thigh and shin slits are bought as sold, sexy for the youth market they’re aimed at. Exposed underwear is a look he was early to: Scan back to the spring 2018 show he put on on a dead-end street in Bushwick, Brooklyn, with cotton briefs peeking out of waistbands and bra tops hybridized with button-downs. Here he showed leather bra tops trimmed in crochet and a bomber-bra-top mash-up complete with pockets over the breasts—underwear that, for all intents and purposes, is now outerwear. On a similar mixed-use wavelength, he developed water-safe denim swimwear—the briefest of bikinis, cropped jean jacket, jeggings-style shorts, etc.—that can be worn directly from the beach to the club.Does Wang think about rejoining the New York schedule, where he was once one of its bright stars? He has a—gasp—20th anniversary on the horizon that might be a moment to come back. He doesn’t want to commit, but he did say he’s planning an activation timed to the release of his pre-fall collection. As designers up and down the fashion food chain reconsider the value and importance of fashion shows, a client-first approach might just be the right way to go for Wang. All you have to do is walk around downtown on a summer weekend to know that there are customers for his brand of young, body-positive fashion—lots of them.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 20, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/65d4c4741f297d3979330676/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexander-wang-spring-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Alexander Wang
|
resort-2024
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2024/alexander-wang
|
Alexander Wang has entered his heritage brand era. The Rocco bag, first launched in 2009, is the comeback star of his latest collection. “When people started asking me for the Rocco again, I said, ‘are we really there yet? Are we back here?’” Wang recalled at a showroom visit. “I felt like it was just literally yesterday when I thought, ‘there’s too much Rocco,’ we need to purge.”As it turns out, Wang’s Rocco revival is coming right on schedule. Fashion conscious young people move fast and having embraced the Y2K trend, they’re now turning their attention to the 2010s, as the very online among us have noticed. “They weren’t around for the first round,” Wang continued. “They’re digging deeper into the depths of the internet. I couldn’t believe it, but I was getting texts from people asking me to make it again.” Where the original gave slouchy “model off-duty” vibes, the new one’s aerodynamism is born from the high frequency printing techniques used to make it.The early 2010s were Wang’s golden years, if that term can be used for a designer not yet 40. He had opened his first store in New York and had not yet been appointed as creative director at Balenciaga, and he was defining his design language—the deconstructed tailoring, the underwear as outerwear, and the leather and denim that gave his brand more street cred than any of his New York contemporaries.Those who witnessed Wang’s rise might shudder at the idea that his pre-Instagram collections qualify as vintage these days, but the designer himself is cheerily forward looking. He’s fresh off a listening tour in China where he’s opened about 15 stores in the last year. It was his first time in the country since the pandemic, and the feedback he kept hearing from customers was the need for versatility.That translated into Dickies-style chinos designed with hidden stretch waistbands so they can be worn high or low; and styling devices like boxer short tops that can be pulled on like a belt, to create the exposed underwear look without the bulk. For a bit of fun he designed a photo print of coins that appeared on an oversized shirt. Buttons on jean jackets and denim shirts also looked like honest-to-goodness nickels and dimes, though Wang clarified that they’re not actual U.S. currency.Wang’s store expansion is continuing apace in North America. Toronto and Miami are scheduled to open before the end of the year, and Las Vegas and Vancouver are scheduled for early 2024.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
October 24, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/652ebdd4fa70a235673e954b/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexander-wang-resort-2024-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2024
|
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]
] |
||
Alexander Wang
|
resort-2024-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2024-menswear/alexander-wang
|
Alexander Wang has entered his heritage brand era. The Rocco bag, first launched in 2009, is the comeback star of his latest collection. “When people started asking me for the Rocco again, I said, ‘are we really there yet? Are we back here?’” Wang recalled at a showroom visit. “I felt like it was just literally yesterday when I thought, ‘there’s too much Rocco,’ we need to purge.”As it turns out, Wang’s Rocco revival is coming right on schedule. Fashion conscious young people move fast and having embraced the Y2K trend, they’re now turning their attention to the 2010s, as the very online among us have noticed. “They weren’t around for the first round,” Wang continued. “They’re digging deeper into the depths of the internet. I couldn’t believe it, but I was getting texts from people asking me to make it again.” Where the original gave slouchy “model off-duty” vibes, the new one’s aerodynamism is born from the high frequency printing techniques used to make it.The early 2010s were Wang’s golden years, if that term can be used for a designer not yet 40. He had opened his first store in New York and had not yet been appointed as creative director at Balenciaga, and he was defining his design language—the deconstructed tailoring, the underwear as outerwear, and the leather and denim that gave his brand more street cred than any of his New York contemporaries.Those who witnessed Wang’s rise might shudder at the idea that his pre-Instagram collections qualify as vintage these days, but the designer himself is cheerily forward looking. He’s fresh off a listening tour in China where he’s opened about 15 stores in the last year. It was his first time in the country since the pandemic, and the feedback he kept hearing from customers was the need for versatility.That translated into Dickies-style chinos designed with hidden stretch waistbands so they can be worn high or low; and styling devices like boxer short tops that can be pulled on like a belt, to create the exposed underwear look without the bulk. For a bit of fun he designed a photo print of coins that appeared on an oversized shirt. Buttons on jean jackets and denim shirts also looked like honest-to-goodness nickels and dimes, though Wang clarified that they’re not actual U.S. currency.Wang’s store expansion is continuing apace in North America. Toronto and Miami are scheduled to open before the end of the year, and Las Vegas and Vancouver are scheduled for early 2024.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
October 24, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/652ebc1841906ece55a71e08/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexander-wang-resort-2024-menswear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2024
|
menswear
|
[
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]
] |
|
Alexander Wang
|
pre-fall-2023-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2023-menswear/alexander-wang
|
Walk around the New York City streets as the weather warms up and one thing becomes abundantly clear: the quiet luxury trend that we’ve been hearing so much about (including from this website) is mostly, if not completely, a virtual phenomenon. Maybe it’s because the Uber-rich don’t use the streets for walking—they have chauffeured Mercedes Maybachs for that, according to Succession, at least—but the vibe of summer 2023 is shaping up to be quite loud.Alexander Wang is on that wavelength. His pre-fall lineup landing in stores now follows the same sexy from-the-boudoir-to-the-club lines as the “Cupid’s Door” show he put on back in February on the eve of New York Fashion Week. Anyone who saw that collection will recognize these pieces. Lace-edged slip dresses, cotton poplin boxer briefs worn as shorts, and thong underwear arching over hipbones above slouched-on jeans appear in both places. Making its debut here is an extensive new range of accessories that he’s calling Dome. Is it just us or does the matte metal hardware look like it was modeled after a self pleasure sex toy?When the occasion calls for a more covered-up look, Wang has useful tweaked shirting with built-in smocking or wrapped details, as well as streamlined, slightly boxy tailoring on offer. He also gets that athleisure isn’t so much a trend for the young people he’s targeting as it is a way of life, hence the souped-up workout wear. His point of differentiation in this category is that he’s taken cues not from yoga and Pilates gear, which is another omnipresent sight on the NYC streets (a bit tired of all that), but the more oversized proportions of boxing and basketball.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
July 7, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6471194914a266538f8dcbd7/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexander-wang-prefall-2023-menswear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
pre-fall
|
2023
|
menswear
|
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]
] |
|
Alexander Wang
|
pre-fall-2023
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2023/alexander-wang
|
Walk around the New York City streets as the weather warms up and one thing becomes abundantly clear: the quiet luxury trend that we’ve been hearing so much about (including from this website) is mostly, if not completely, a virtual phenomenon. Maybe it’s because the Uber-rich don’t use the streets for walking—they have chauffeured Mercedes Maybachs for that, according to Succession, at least—but the vibe of summer 2023 is shaping up to be quite loud.Alexander Wang is on that wavelength. His pre-fall lineup landing in stores now follows the same sexy from-the-boudoir-to-the-club lines as the “Cupid’s Door” show he put on back in February on the eve of New York Fashion Week. Anyone who saw that collection will recognize these pieces. Lace-edged slip dresses, cotton poplin boxer briefs worn as shorts, and thong underwear arching over hipbones above slouched-on jeans appear in both places. Making its debut here is an extensive new range of accessories that he’s calling Dome. Is it just us or does the matte metal hardware look like it was modeled after a self pleasure sex toy?When the occasion calls for a more covered-up look, Wang has useful tweaked shirting with built-in smocking or wrapped details, as well as streamlined, slightly boxy tailoring on offer. He also gets that athleisure isn’t so much a trend for the young people he’s targeting as it is a way of life, hence the souped-up workout wear. His point of differentiation in this category is that he’s taken cues not from yoga and Pilates gear, which is another omnipresent sight on the NYC streets (a bit tired of all that), but the more oversized proportions of boxing and basketball.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
June 12, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6487287c7ccc5800cdc34373/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexander-wang-prefall-2023-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
pre-fall
|
2023
|
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] |
||
Alexander Wang
|
fall-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/alexander-wang
|
It’s been a minute since Alexander Wang has been on the runway in New York City. In between that May 2019 show and now, Wang faced allegations of sexual misconduct that threw the future of his business into question. He made a public apology and his accusers announced they were “moving forward,” and he put on a show in Los Angeles’s Chinatown in April of 2022, but a New York City comeback has a different level of import.A promo spot on his Instagram Reels starring Anna Delvey, the socialite fraudster under house arrest in an East Village apartment, seemed to suggest he wasn’t proceeding from a chastened place. Cheeky is more like it. That fits with the collection’s theme. He gave it a name, “Cupid’s Door,” and dressed the location in boudoir-ish style, with dusty pink velvet curtains and a mesmeric zebra-stripe carpet; lighting gels that cast a red glow over the whole place.Wang rose to fame in New York 15 years ago on the sexy sellability of what used to be called the model-off-duty look: all slouchy blazers, shredded tanks and tees, and skinny cigarette jeans. He’s no longer the new guy on the block—in fact, he’ll turn 40 later this year—but he still has a handle on what the kids want. Sexy is enjoying a comeback of its own in the wake of the pandemic. Though the spiked platform shoes looked like a relic from another time, the oversized blazers, (Julia Fox’s studded with crystals); lace-edged camisoles; and low-slung python print pants were on the money, he even had boxer briefs peeking over the tops of waistbands.The show was divided into three acts. The opening women’s section also featured a lot of denim and faux fur in a variety of textures and silhouettes, some on the formal side for Wang, who’s always been called a downtown designer. Backstage he mentioned Wong Kar Wai films like 2046 and In the Mood for Love, which might have prompted the dressy vibes.Next came a men’s grouping that was the coolest part of the collection, with casual, athleisure-y items like sweatpants and sweatshirts in soft, high pile fabrics, alongside cropped vests and more animal print pants. Look closely and these pieces were as sparkly as the women’s looks. “I wanted to bring a kind of different sensuality to the masculine items and archetypes, as well,” Wang said.The ending was a series of silk fringe dresses suspended from heart shapes built on a foundation of sheer net that revealed as much as they concealed. For some reason, they conjured a memory of a long distant show, in the peak Alexander Wang year of 2011, whose hero pieces were made from spliced bias cut silk with fringes that spiraled around the hips and legs. Recapturing that heat won’t be easy, but when he came bounding out from backstage and made his trademark running bow you knew he was going to give it his best shot.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 8, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/63e471f06a7c950860a185b6/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-alexander-wang-fall-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Alexandre Herchcovitch
|
sao-paulo-fall-2016
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/sao-paulo-fall-2016/alexandre-herchcovitch
|
Founder: Alexandre HerchcovitchYear established: 1994Known for: Everything from punkish streetwear to splendid gownsStocked at: His own website,loja.herchcovitch.com.br
| null |
October 20, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5625522297fa0a6b61282f68/master/w_1280,c_limit/_A2X0014.jpg"
] |
sao-paulo
|
fall
|
2016
|
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] |
|
Alexandre Herchcovitch
|
sao-paulo-spring-2015
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/sao-paulo-spring-2015/alexandre-herchcovitch
|
Founder: Alexandre HerchcovitchYear established: 1994Known for: Everything from punkish streetwear to splendid gownsStocked at: His own website,loja.herchcovitch.com.br
|
style.com
|
April 15, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650b608298d8be214e49f/master/w_1280,c_limit/_AG28406.jpg"
] |
sao-paulo
|
spring
|
2015
|
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] |
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