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Amiri
|
spring-2023-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-menswear/amiri
|
You can see why Amiri is apparently rivalling traditional Euroluxe menswear marques in certain markets. Through being designed by its founder instead of a gun to hire brought in to keep a last-century name ticking over, as well as through the nature of that design, it is highly relatable both in concept and content. Years ago, maybe 2015, I remember speaking to Mike Amiri about his love for reworking denim by means as extreme as taking it to the desert and peppering it with gunshot. Today, in Paris, you could see his roots remain in denim but also how far he has flourished since by expanding his practice of unorthodox artisanal application.There are now 75 staff in his LA atelier, he said: “where we’re just kind of playing with painting and dye techniques and embroideries.” The collection is now made between the US and Italy (minority investor Renzo Rosso, another denim-rooted success story, was on site today). Technically impressive pieces here included jacquard denim; patched washed denim baseball shirts; embroidered Pegasus bombers with tufted wing sections that fluttered in the (very) warm breeze when the models walked; tapestry-woven bandana print shorts, shirts, and bucket hats; football shirts in embossed croc print leather shaped to fall like the real sporting deal; and vintage patched varsity jackets. The progression of color in the show, from baseline washed-denim blue through a few slowly played out chords to marine green and then blue again, was confidently executed and dreamy to watch.The tucked in jacket suiting was gimmicky, sure, yet it looked pretty good—Amiri said he’d been thinking about achieving a boilersuit effect—and sometimes gimmicks really take off. It worked best of all in an ingeniously finished pinstripe fabric meant to appear as if it had been weathered by sunlight, something especially apt at an outdoor show where several audience members were inspired to go shirtless and catch rays. It’s exciting to see labels from outside the luxury firmament step into Paris proper and give such a compelling account of themselves; this has been a good season for that.
|
Luke Leitch
|
June 23, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/62b4aea572152d4ea7948b96/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-amiri-spring-2023-mens-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2023
|
menswear
|
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|
Amiri
|
resort-2023
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2023/amiri
|
Mike Amiri is sporting a baseball cap with his brand’s logo on it during a Zoom call. Womenswear models in his resort 2023 lookbook wear the same hat pulled down over straight hair; that’s one way Amiri’s menswear business is seeping into his women’s. The other way is with its swagger.After the brand’s womenswear relaunch several seasons ago, its collections erred precious, without the louche verve of his menswear. Things are starting to net out at Amiri HQ after the co-ed runway show the brand staged in LA this past February with Wes Lang. Now, women wear pants slung low, baggy and pooling at the ankles over cool shearling booties. Their cardigans are oversize and shaggy and their jackets come with adjustable zips and snaps at the side for maximum swooshing movement.“The proportion between the tops and the bottoms this season is really a menswear silhouette,” says Amiri, “but it’s not about taking from menswear directly, it’s about making it her own.” The most exciting piece here is a cropped purple puffa, inspired by moto jackets and with all the bells and whistles of a classic Schott, shrunken into a bubble shape and worn with ultra-low-rise trousers. It’s as if the Miu Miu set—all about abs—took a punky, albeit covered-up turn. Is it a realistic or elegant look? Not exactly, but it is taking Mike Amiri somewhere new as far as shape, structure, and style are concerned. Let’s see where he goes from here.
|
Steff Yotka
|
June 1, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/629727fb3868069c42a1692d/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-amiri-resort-2023-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2023
|
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] |
||
Amiri
|
fall-2022-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-menswear/amiri
|
A question after last night’s Amiri show at Milk Studios in Los Angeles: Does Amiri look like everything or does everything look like Amiri? With pooling kick flare pants, long tunic shirts layered under bombers, and omnipresent crossbody bags, Amiri’s latest menswear is exactly on the pulse. Look across the ocean at the highest, most uppity echelons of the Paris menswear scene and you’ll find exactly these kinds of groovy L.A. guy clothes. There’s no real point in trying to figure out who came up with it first—that’s a very tired way of thinking about fashion. Who is doing it better? Maybe the more important question is: Who is having more fun?Surrounded by friends, family, collaborators, and a cast of celebrities like Travis Barker, Kourtney Kardashian, Angus Cloud, and Kyle Kuzma, Mike Amiri was definitely having a great time yesterday. The show was a homecoming after years in Paris followed by digital presentations during the pandemic. To mark his return, he struck up a collaboration with the most L.A. artist of the 2000s, Wes Lang, whose pieces are featured in several of Amiri’s American stores. “We didn’t want to do the typical artist-designer thing,” Amiri said before the show. “We wanted something more personal.”Lang’s way of meticulously layering paint and fine linework informed Amiri’s process. The materiality of his garments gets better each season, and here there were hidden-seam patchwork leather trousers, tapestry knits, painted hem pants, and suede, macramé, and knit cardigans. The craft is as elevated as ever, but the thing Amiri fans will take away is swagger. With ultra-high vents in the back of robe coats, layered scarves under knits, and those aforementioned flares, the Amiri silhouette is in constant motion, practically bolting forward.It’s the way Mike himself dresses and the way the crowd of L.A. movers and shakers that amassed for the show do too. Experiencing the Amiri vibe in situ amplifies the brand’s effect and message. He’s not just “the jeans guy,” he’s created a community that looks to him not only for fashion advice but for a new way to be. (Lang’s skulls were crossed with messages of positivity, for example.)Amiri is arguably one of the most impactful menswear designers in America right now. Would it be even more impactful to see his clothing alongside his American peers, the ones who are also innovating in the menswear scene? That will be the next question for Amiri, and for American fashion at large.
|
Steff Yotka
|
February 9, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/62041027822d5c6086c67b9b/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Amiri-Fall-22-LosAngeles-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2022
|
menswear
|
[
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] |
|
Amiri
|
fall-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/amiri
|
One week from now, Mike Amiri will unveil his fall 2022 menswear collection at an event in Los Angeles. It will be the latest in a series of flexes; during the pandemic, Amiri four stores and dressed J Balvin for the CFDA Awards.So where does womenswear fit into the Amiri world takeover? The collection is decidedly quieter and more straightforward than Amiri’s menswear: less flash, more essentials. “We are focused on adding more codes to the baseline of Amiri’s womenswear,” the designer said over Zoom from Los Angeles, sitting outside with the sun blaring behind him.Amiri’s fall womenswear essentials consist primarily of neutral toned, structured separates like blazers, trousers, and slender crop tops. A-line bomber jackets with funnel neck collars give the collectiona little swing, as do new pleated skirts with asymmetrical hems. Blazers are made from coated terry, emphasizing comfort, and wide-leg cargo pants look comfortable, even if they’re shown with the sort of stilettos that strike fear in Birkenstock-wearing WFH types.A hybridized jean-to-sweatpant that marries denim yokes with jersey trousers is Amiri’s feat of construction this season. Elswhere, the pattern of a cashmere sweater is drawn from tie-dyes the Amiri team made in its L.A. studio. These experiments in craft give a little life to the sleek Amiri woman; let’s hope he continues to bring handwork—and maybe a little more ease—into Amiri womenswear.
|
Steff Yotka
|
February 1, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/61f9022bc503a3c3a59957b4/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Amiri-RTW-Fall-22-credit-Hart-Leshkina.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2022
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Amiri
|
spring-2022-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-menswear/amiri
|
As softly spoken as Mike Amiri, the man, can be, Amiri the brand has never really come off as sensitive. While Mike posts handwritten inspirational quotes on his personal Instagram, Amiri’s brand account features slick glamour shots of boys smoking ciggies at the Chateau Marmont. But as it does for all who settle in Los Angeles, wellness eventually came for Amiri.His spring 2022 menswear collection is a paean to feeling good and escaping the modern world. Serenity is telegraphed not only through Amiri’s ever-loosening silhouettes and many ivory lace and silk separates, but through the spa-like setting of a film and a soundtrack by Black Coffee with the cooing refrain, “wish you were here.” Reached over Zoom, the designer riffed, “What does calm look like? What does health look like? How do you make the clothes feel like an exhale?”That will sound especially woo-woo from a guy who started his brand by making tees for Axl Rose and shooting holes through cashmere sweaters with a shotgun. It is also pretty on-the-nose for how one imagines the Amiri customer is feeling right about now. On television, The White Lotus and Nine Perfect Strangers paint distressing pictures of how the well-off search for wellness. The characters’ wardrobes tend to match the state of mind they want to acquire (through whatever means necessary): airy colors, sensual fabrics, louche trousers with a sort of always-on-vacation spirit. Amiri did speak of capturing a certain escapism with this collection, but rather than get as carried away as The White Lotus’s Jennifer Coolidge in a caftan, he knew to pull back on the fantasy and inject a sensitive new reality into his designs.Texture is the big story, and it comes in beautiful and luxurious new ways. The sorbet bouclés will catch your attention first, giving the longline double breasted suiting Amiri has experimented with for a couple seasons a chubby, sweet weight while making a Baja pullover and track pants feel especially luxe. There is whipstitching and fringed hems on camp shirts and leather hoodies—it’s easy to picture Amiri’s athletes coveting these pieces—and a pair of chocolate ice-dyed jeans that took the Amiri team three days to perfect. The best ideas of the collection come together in its final look: A knit tank with hand-embroidered bandana stripes and buttery patchwork leather pants. The Amiri dude used to have a bull in a china shop brazenness to him; now he’s ready to emote a homespun tenderness—and he’s got a great bag, too.
|
Steff Yotka
|
September 1, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/612e626335a38be7380d14d9/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Amiri-Mens-SS22.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2022
|
menswear
|
[
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] |
|
Amiri
|
spring-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-ready-to-wear/amiri
|
Amiri often showed menswear and womenswear together on its runways in Paris, with women in longline seafoam suiting and boxy leather jackets slotting almost anonymously into Mike Amiri’s men’s lineup. The pandemic and its related lockdowns gave him a moment to reconsider exactly who the Amiri woman is and what she’d want to wear. The 22 looks shown here, for spring 2022, are no longer the addendum to a cool dude parade, but their own sure-footed proposition for how women should dress.Amiri’s year of meditation on womenswear resulted in a collection with what he called a “direct and narrow focus.” It’s not revolutionary, with its button-up trucker jackets tucked into slouchy blue jeans, but a reliance on All American style—and specifically Los Angeles art gallery minimalism—gives Amiri enough of a niche in the market. Leather yoked jeans and a gorgeous chocolate double breasted suit are instantly wantable.Still, for all the polish Amiri’s new woman has, you can’t help but wish she had a little grit. Beautiful, austere clothing feels like something we’d all willingly leave in the Before Times in favor of garments that reflect the lives lived within them. His menswear has that mojo, carrying memories of a life well lived. Amiri is a powerful creative director; chances are his womenswear will have its own mojo soon.
|
Steff Yotka
|
June 29, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/60dada755ebb1ae51eb0e78a/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Amiri-Spring-22-RTW-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2022
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Amsale
|
bridal-spring-2021
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/bridal-spring-2021/amsale
|
Amsale could not host a presentation this season due to the coronavirus pandemic. In these extenuating circumstances, Vogue Runway has made an exception to its policy and is writing about this collection via photos and remote interviews.The bridal market may be better suited to the concept of virtual shows than any other. After all, how many wedding day fantasies begin with a photo saved to a Pinterest board or Instagram folder? The experience of buying a dress has been documented for years on reality programming and YouTube clips, to the point where many people enter stores with a “seen it all” outlook that colors their choices.As AMSALE’s design director, Margo Lafontaine understands the impact of our digital engagement with bridalwear, so when it came time to present her collections online, she was prepared. Earlier this year, the brand debuted a virtual try-on feature for clients complete with the option to upload their selfies. The spring lookbook, comprised of user-generated content created by couples like Broadway-star Laura Osnes and her husband, the photographer Nathan Johnson, also felt of the moment.The focus on new media did little to diminish the brand’s classicism, however. In the two years since founder Amsale Aberra’s passing Lafontaine has stayed true to her minimal, refined look, and spring continued that tradition. The absence of the couture segment—in the name of safety for its employees Amsale halted production last month before the completion of some of the more ornate looks—resulted in a stark feel with gowns differentiated by a single statement detail. Crisscrossing back straps, flared skirts, and asymmetrical necklines added touches of individuality, but the traditional silhouettes felt like variations on a theme. The similitude makes sense given that brides can mix and match elements to customize their dresses online.The choose your own adventure approach is novel, but the collection’s real fun came via its singular pieces. A pale shirtdress ideal for minimalists and a retro strapless dress with transparent lace overlay both charted fresh territory, as did a compelling long-sleeved satin number that didn’t need a single embellishment to stand out.
|
Janelle Okwodu
|
April 18, 2020
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e99ef441dd2060009a6b90c/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Amsale-Bridal-Spring-2021.jpg"
] |
bridal
|
spring
|
2021
|
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] |
|
Amsale
|
bridal-fall-2020
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/bridal-fall-2020/amsale
|
Excess is not a word traditionally associated with Amsale, but Fall 2020 found the brand in an indulgent mood. All five of its bridal collections were present in an effort to show a 360-degree wardrobe for the entire wedding party. For the comprehensive event, Amsale took over Midtown’s Metropolitan West. In pictures, the gradient lineup of bridesmaids dresses and tableaus of models may seem charming, but the reality of so many collections in a layout that required a map was overwhelming. The variety was beautiful, but the sensory overload of taking them all in made it difficult to appreciate each look individually.The simplicity that defined Amsale Aberra’s work and now informs current design director Margo LaFontaine was most evident in the refined Nouvelle Amsale section. Tulle ballgowns with Chantilly lace will always dazzle Amsale brides, and LaFontaine managed to make the most classic pieces feel fresh. Sweetheart necklines and trains topped off with a bow were nothing new, but they packed a dramatic wow factor.The more modern pieces in the Amsale section lent a touch of cool to the proceedings. Who needs floor-length anything when you’ve got a delicate minidress made for dancing?
|
Janelle Okwodu
|
October 5, 2019
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5d97b3843b257600087ff84f/master/w_1280,c_limit/_VIE0303.jpg"
] |
bridal
|
fall
|
2020
|
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] |
|
Amsale
|
bridal-spring-2020
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/bridal-spring-2020/amsale
|
In the year since Amsale Aberra’s passing, her namesake label has continued in a manner befitting her legacy. The collections under Amsale’s new design director, Margo Lafontaine, have respected Aberra’s streamlined aesthetic, but evolution is inevitable. Spring 2020 gave Lafontaine and her team the opportunity to mix things up, starting with a show in the heart of Chelsea. With Ariana Grande blaring on the speakers, they presented four separate versions of the Amsale woman, united by an understated aesthetic and layers of delicate Mimi So jewelry.The main Amsale line offered classics in the form of ballgowns with sweetheart necklines and crystal bodices, while the younger range, Nouvelle Amsale, went a bit more playful with Chantilly lace and sheer backs with sparkling embroideries. Standouts included a silk faille strapless number with elegant draping and a tiered dress with flower petals sprinkled down the back. Each look was delivered in crisp white, making it somewhat difficult to separate the ranges. A touch of nude, or even—gasp!—blush would have been daring for this house, but the lineup offered other ways for brides to experiment on their big day.The show closed with a new line, Amsale x You, an online customization program that allows clients to mix and match pieces from the brand’s archive. Shown on seven brides-to-be, including opera singer Bria Langer and women’s health advocate Dr. Melynda Barnes, it offered a glimpse at how women are incorporating the season’s bridal trends into their weddings—and the universal appeal of Amsale’s designs.
|
Janelle Okwodu
|
April 15, 2019
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5cb116ac753cb72e59249931/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-amsale-new-york-bridal-Spring-2020.jpg"
] |
bridal
|
spring
|
2020
|
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]
] |
|
Amsale
|
bridal-fall-2019
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/bridal-fall-2019/amsale
|
If you’re at all superstitious, you’ll be familiar with the adage about brides needing something old and something new to ensure good luck on their wedding day. The latest Amsale collection appeared to take that seriously. The brand has undergone sweeping changes since the death of its founder, Amsale Aberra, in April, and its Fall show addressed both the past and the future. Creative director Margo Lafontaine’s debut showed a fresh direction, including the label’s three distinct lines: Amsale, Nouvelle Amsale, and Little White Dress. They were united by a sense of simplicity and ease; Amsale may have had a changing of the guard, but the timeless, minimalist aesthetic is still there.Each line had its own high points: Nouvelle Amsale’s crepe gowns with Chantilly lace were unquestionably pretty, as were the taffeta ball gowns with bodices covered in flowers. The reintroduction of Aberra’s Little White Dress capsule, a series of informal looks dedicated to the moments before and after the ceremony, paid tribute to the designer’s legacy with flirty shifts and circle skirts that could work for cocktail hour or simply an evening out. Amsale’s expansion beyond strict wedding attire was cheekily punctuated by the sounds of Bobby Rush “I Think Your Dress Is Too Short” on the speakers.Unsurprisingly, Lafontaine’s finale gowns spurred some of the biggest reactions, perhaps because they were a bit grander and more decorative than the sleek columns and sheaths before them. They still had a touch of casualness, though—particularly the last look, which came with a long-sleeved lace T-shirt “layered” underneath.
|
Janelle Okwodu
|
October 10, 2018
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5bbb2751dbb9732e2124a283/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-amsale-fall-2019-bridal.jpg"
] |
bridal
|
fall
|
2019
|
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|
Amsale
|
bridal-spring-2019
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/bridal-spring-2019/amsale
|
Summing up a fashion career is no small task, but Amsale Aberra’s final collection managed just that. Just a few weeks ago, news of Aberra’s passing stunned and saddened the industry, but as per her wishes, the Spring 2019 bridal show went on as planned. On Friday, friends, family, and editors convened in the penthouse of the Gramercy Park Hotel to celebrate Aberra and her life’s work.Arriving on the scene in the late ’80s when maximalism typified the bridal market, Aberra swung the pendulum in the other direction with her pared-back, refined dresses. That history was reflected in the new collection, composed of understated gowns for brides who prefer an effortless look. The mood was simple and elegant, from a halter dress in lush taffeta to a spaghetti-strap gown with delicate seaming.Sticking to the classics with a range of white gowns elevated by subtle details, this collection included two distinct lines: Nouvelle Amsale, the relaunched, minimalist-leaning label, and Amsale, its more decadent cousin. Each lineup had its high points, but the addition of luxurious Chantilly lace and silk faille provided the latter category with a few dreamier options, most notably the intricately crafted ball gown covered in crystal embroidery and pearls.Rounding out the show was a tribute to the A101 column, the first gown Aberra ever designed. In duchesse satin with an illusion neckline, it remains one of the brand’s signatures, and has been co-opted and copied countless times since its debut in 1990. Its sense of timelessness—a dress that could come from and look chic in any era—will serve as Aberra’s legacy.
|
Janelle Okwodu
|
April 17, 2018
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5ad5f51162056e0d048a76bb/master/w_1280,c_limit/945908182-amsale-bridal-spring-2019-vogue-pr.jpg"
] |
bridal
|
spring
|
2019
|
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] |
|
Andrea Pompilio
|
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/andrea-pompilio
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/63233538a33b267d6415326f/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-andrea-pompilio-spring-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
||
Andrea Pompilio
|
fall-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/andrea-pompilio
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6214c12c2a2bfbb963d23f3e/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Andrea-Pompilio-Fall-22-New-York-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2022
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
||
Andrea Pompilio
|
spring-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-ready-to-wear/andrea-pompilio
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/614b7567cee3bea9c7e1d502/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-AndreaPompilio-Spring-22-Milan-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2022
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
||
Andrea Pompilio
|
fall-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/andrea-pompilio
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/603611d0efbf81e9b2cbafe6/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Andrea-Pompilio-RTW-fall-21.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2021
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
||
Andrea Pompilio
|
spring-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2021-ready-to-wear/andrea-pompilio
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5f6bde961adfa0c1f195f35a/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Andrea-Pompilio-RTW-Spring-2021.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2021
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
||
Andrea Pompilio
|
fall-2020-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-menswear/andrea-pompilio
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e18895b377dfe000822a71a/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Andrea-Pompilio-Menswear-Fall-20.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2020
|
menswear
|
[
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] |
||
Andrea Pompilio
|
spring-2020-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-menswear/andrea-pompilio
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5d039e1378a2828e63045cdf/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Andrea-Pompilio-Mens-Spring-20.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2020
|
menswear
|
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] |
||
Andrea Pompilio
|
spring-2019-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-menswear/andrea-pompilio
|
For Spring, Andrea Pompilio has stuck to his signature eclecticism, but, perhaps, with a bit more of a social observation broken in. He was thinking of Rimini, on Italy’s Adriatic Coast, in both a nostalgic manner and as it is now, where “the young and the old are sort of both on full display.” (Though this collection definitely skewed younger and more contemporary.) He was also considering his own experience of waiting in line at a gas station, en route to said beach town, and watching the attendants in their uniforms. This memory resulted in a pleasingly color-balanced gray/cobalt/black jacket, with the initials AP stylized and italicized on the chest.“I think to do something that’s very nice, or beautiful, becomes easy. I like the idea of taking something that might not look so good outright, but then figuring out a way for it to work,” said the designer. This zone, or overlap, is Pompilio’s forte—consider for Spring a knitted vest, featuring a reinterpretation of an ’80s-era tourism ad, over roomy trousers made of the kind of canvas used to stretch beach chairs. A rather opulent oddness, made more so by a suspender cord retooled as a belt. Striped or palm tree–printed short shorts also had this eccentricity apparent, and a bit of a throwback touch, too—the sort of breezy, carefree garment any style-conscious guy now thinks of when it comes to Italian summers, courtesy ofCall Me by Your Name. And if a full look may sometimes veer too mixed or too astray, the trick to Pompilio’s output is that, de-styled, the pieces make for fine solo numbers. The mash-ups, rather, are his way of saying we shouldn’t collectively take all of this fashion stuff so damn seriously. And that’s a nice point to walk away with.
|
Nick Remsen
|
June 16, 2018
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5b2518ca4c6bbc393b0c905b/master/w_1280,c_limit/AP-SS19_01.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2019
|
menswear
|
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]
] |
|
Andrea Pompilio
|
fall-2018-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-menswear/andrea-pompilio
|
This season Andrea Pompilio changed things up in his Milan showroom with a static presentation of nine looks worn by models lolling on wooden pallets. Below each look was a consignment label reading “AP Supermarket” alongside a delivery date for either July or September 2018. This was to signal the opening of Pompilio’s new e-commerce platform (atAndreaPompilio.it), which he said will allow him to operate outside the six-month collection cycle and deliver product in drops to be shot by emerging photographers.This collection veered between the nostalgic and the Pompilio-flavored forward facing. Backward glances included ringer neck striped T-shirts; top-stitched, baggy, cotton-lined wool “denim” in black; washed blue denim with ironed-on creases; loafers with stud-edged soles and contrast-color uppers; a big jacket carried over from last season; and check cotton flannel shirts with contrast-check sleeve hems. Future-facing pieces included hooded jersey tabards, and two great technical parkas (one in check with a high-vis side stripe on the arm, the other in a lurid but compelling blue nylon). A Loden-esque topcoat, slightly oversize, came in an orange check, and an irregularly woven striped jacquard sweater was delivered inverted to make the analogue detail of its stitching a decorative headline.Pompilio is hard to categorize beyond the quixotic variousness of his sometimes lovely product and a keen eye for top-notch fabrication: Let’s hope his digital supermarket allows customers to find their way into his world.
|
Luke Leitch
|
January 13, 2018
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5a5a4b189134621406cf627c/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-andrea-pompilio-mens-fw18-lookbook.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2018
|
menswear
|
[
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]
] |
|
Andrea Pompilio
|
spring-2018-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-menswear/andrea-pompilio
|
“I was thinking about what I’d like to wear in the city after work, but then on vacation too. We are in Italy and we are lucky—we have a whole month off,” said Andrea Pompilio on this sweltering Milanese afternoon. (Everyone in the showroom was daydreaming about his or her upcoming exodus from town—for his particular holiday, Pompilio will jet south to Cape Verde.) The designer’s Spring collection is a contemplation of what one might do if he or she could no longer bear it and had to get out ASAP, hastily packing before heading to Malpensa and buying a ticket to wherever wanderlust beckoned strongest. In expected Pompilion style, though, this wasn’t some slapdash scramble—the designer has a lot going on visually in his clothes, but he’s a sharp editor.There were: baggy T-shirts with Oaxacan embroideries on the breast pocket (these were standout pieces); sweatshirt-material tops with a giraffe-toile print (these, less so); stringy, inside-out beach-bum jumpers; great bomber jackets with industrial namesake placards (because at the end of every getaway, the city and its working life await); and an enhanced focus on plaids. “I like how they clash,” said Pompilio, holding up a pair of russet-checked “dry cotton” Bermuda shorts against an alternatively schemed shirt. Also, slouchy, multi-tonal denim hit a high note; this was almost like Andrea Pompilio’s interpretation ofInherent Vice. Think: a hybrid of faded ’70s, half-baked beach vibes blended with his de facto Italian polish and idiosyncrasy. It wasn’t necessarily the best trip ever, but it was enough to make this writer reconsider his next resort wardrobe.
|
Nick Remsen
|
June 16, 2017
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/594410858ba2821cdbcb9223/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-Andrea-Pompilio-SS-18.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2018
|
menswear
|
[
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|
Andreadamo
|
spring-2025-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/andreadamo
|
It’s not the destination that matters, but the path you take to reach it. The journey is an ongoing discovery, and that’s where Andrea Adamo began his spring collection. After a season of absence, he returned to the runway thanks to the support of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. “I want to show the determination that drives me to keep challenging myself,” said the designer. His tears at the end of the show and the palpable emotion already present during the fittings a few days before were a reminder of how difficult it is to find a balance and to enjoy oneself when navigating the fashion system. Especially when you’re “small” and independent.Perhaps that’s why he brought his girls to a nightclub. He was on the other side of the globe last summer when he re-explored that sense of freedom that only the night can offer. The runway reflected the experience of letting go. Stripping away the inherent taboos of body sexualization, he transformed nudity into a state of mind. Nude 01, Nude 02, Nude 03, like shades of skin, are the colors that have defined his stylistic identity since day one. The clothes’ lines embraced the body’s form, approaching without constraining it, but the more form-fitting silhouettes alternated with volumes that were new in the designer’s lexicon. Miniskirts and balloon pants in georgette, sometimes open at the sides but always tight at the ankle, were paired with Aviator-style leather bombers or knitted tops, which continue to serve as a dictionary to understanding the language of Andreadamo.Layering bodysuits, garments that hide pockets, see-through organza dresses, knitwear crafted in mesh or stripes using transparent thread, stretch corsets used as bustiers over tailored suits: Everything spoke of a gritty and never predictable femininity. Sensuality burst forth in the trompe-l’œil dresses and tops, where the naked body was an optical illusion created by hand airbrushing the garments. Fringes—in knit, crunchy sequins or crystals—enhanced movement, creating precious fluid sculptures. The attitude was a kind of power dressing that became contemporary in a narrative of liberated eroticism. That’s how the collection revealed all the energy we need.
|
Giulia Di Giamberardino
|
September 22, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/66f01b91555e4ece27e4062b/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-andreadamo-spring-2025-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2025
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Andreadamo
|
fall-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-ready-to-wear/andreadamo
|
Andrea Adamo opted out of the catwalk this season to present in an industrial warehouse. More akin to an artsy event than to a fashion presentation, it showcased looks sandwiched bi-dimensionally between clear plexiglass frames suspended from the ceiling; glossy AI-generated images of blown-up details were hung on walls.Although fashion has moved on from overt body-consciousness, Adamo has stuck to his guns, and he’s still a firm proponent of an almost anatomical take on the female form. It’s not about the lacy, see-through lingerie look seen on some runways this season; his approach is sculptural and imperative, with an accent on strong shapes almost molded onto the body—more second-skin erotic armors than fragile boudoir glamour. He almost carved his slinky silhouettes from a new luscious scuba fabrication with a glazed, succulent surface matching skin tones, malleable enough to be sculpted into body-hugging tailored jackets and swingy A-line minidresses.While staying true to his aesthetic, Adamo cleverly expanded his range, adding a daywear offer with a softer fit for those who don’t necessarily want to flaunt their curves. Roomy coats and knitwear with cut-out details, as well as wide-leg trousers, had more forgiving volumes, while still retaining a sexy undertone. “As a designer, you have to hold true to your identity,” Adamo said. “But it wouldn’t be smart not to acknowledge how women are multifaceted, how they constantly evolve. You have to evolve with them.”
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
February 27, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/65d736ba295b33800fcb4524/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-andreadamo-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Andreadamo
|
spring-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/andreadamo
|
As long as designers like Andrea Adamo walk the earth, high-wattage body-con dressing will never die. Ditto the whole arsenal that glorifies a potent idea of femininity—Amazonian armor in the form of oversized leather bikers, strong-shouldered power suits, and sultry numbers revealing ample expanses of bare skin. Severe minimalism certainly doesn’t move the needle of Adamo’s almost visceral love for fashion that’s hot, womanly, and erotically charged.Unfazed by trends, he stuck to his guns for spring. “I don’t care,” he said backstage before today’s show. “I want to build my brand around my own beliefs and a strong identity.” He sent out a collection confident enough to leave no doubt about the direction he’s taking.Masculine tailoring flirting with the erotic was how he got his message across. Cinch-waisted, broad-shouldered blazers worn over slouchy cargos played against second-skin, neck-plunging ribbed Henleys borrowed from the boys and elongated into dresses rendered in shades of nude. Ribbons of stretch jersey gave shape to tight-fitting strapless dresses or ultratight pencil skirts, while a knitted stitched jersey, called an “X-ray” for its see-through properties, outlined provocative, curvy silhouettes. Likewise, sheer gossamer tulle was draped and folded into body-hugging nude minidresses worn over leggings. Adamo definitely doesn’t design for wallflowers.One of Adamo’s favorite muses is the singer Mina, whose magnetic, stirring voice was on the soundtrack. “Her mystery, fierceness, and strength represent what I like in a woman,” he said. Not surprisingly, she is known as the “Tiger of Cremona,” after the city in northern Italy from which she hails.
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
September 23, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/650ee079e2b47fe2094db49d/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-andreadamo-spring-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Andreadamo
|
fall-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/andreadamo
|
Growing up in Crotone, a small provincial town in Italy’s deep south, Andrea Adamo had to endure the prejudices and narrow-mindedness of a patriarchal culture that tried to sabotage his sense of identity and his dreams of becoming who he is today. “But I always held my head high, and I never gave up on my beliefs,” he said backstage. “No matter the hardships, here I am.”After years working for brands like Roberto Cavalli and Dolce & Gabbana, Adamo launched his eponymous brand during the 2020 lockdown, an act of bravery under the circumstances. Today was his third outing, which was intended as an homage to his hometown and to his personal story of resilience and tenacity.Crotone sits in a dry landscape of clay hills, whose cracked textures served as a template for a jacquard motif on a sweeping greatcoat and on a knitted combo of leggings and a tight-fitting off-the-shoulder top. The bodycon ultra-sexy silhouettes in stretch ribbed textures that elicited the attention of celebs like Dua Lipa were offered here in elaborate variations, variously slashed with revealing cutouts, extended with circular panels or with hanging ribbons. They were worn under oversized coat in knitted fur, under lacquered biker shearlings or black glossy leather overshirts. An imposing greatcoat in sunflower yellow shearling slit at the sides was a standout, emerging from the collection’s palette of grays that was a reminder of the tones of Crotone’s surrounding hills. Trying his hand at tailoring was also a smart move for Adamo, who’s cleverly expanding his range to appeal to a wider audience. He has come a long way from his hometown.
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
February 25, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/63f8f44a444812faa1f48340/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-andreadamo-fall-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Andreadamo
|
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/andreadamo
|
“I thought it was really time to think big, to create a show that was the maximum expression of who I am.” So said Andrea Adamo before his show this evening. The incentive to think big, he added, was driven by the popularity of his knitwear amongst influential dressers including Dua Lipa, Anitta, Nicola Peltz and Julia Fox.The models came out of a modern building in Piazza Olivetti, a square behind the Prada Foundation. Their catwalk was a shallow pool of water, through which they splashed in flip-flops with maxi platforms or sandals with solid but vertiginous heels. “Water, in this collection is a fundamental element,” said Adamo, adding that it pointed to the inspiration he had drawn from a surf village named Famara in Lanzarote. Every morning, when the breaks come in, surfers both local and from far-flung locales—sometimes including Adamo—congregate.The ribbed knit, the basis of the brand’s DNA, was transformed by thin nylon threads within it that gave it a more solid structure: the knits both contained and added volume to the undulations of their wearer. Wetsuit reminiscent underlayers provided the foundation for fringed and woven dresses. Cargo pants and capris in distressed leather and treated cottons swayed with strapping. The clothes as well as the water beneath them were driven by tides of movement.
|
Federica Salto
|
September 21, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/632c24b8e89efd644675d1b9/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-andreadamo-spring-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Andrew Gn
|
fall-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/andrew-gn
|
Andrew Gn decided to call his fall outing “Roots,” for lots of reasons. First of all, he wanted it to reflect his Asian origin. His standing as Singapore’s most famous fashion designer has, rightfully, earned him a major retrospective at the Asian Civilizations Museum in his homeland, which will open with a gala in May and run through September. It’s a major honor and a milestone. But it’s not the only point.“Today, when you talk about roots, it’s not just about where you were born, it’s about where you have been in your life,” the designer said during a showroom preview. The fall collection, therefore, represents Gn’s whole life story, here aptly shot against the gilded woodwork in the Musée Carnavalet, the recently renovated museum of the city of Paris.Take a gold-caramel plissé column dress with an iris border and the designer’s signature butterflies, for example: that piece is inspired by a kimono, probably dating to the turn of the last century, that belonged to Gn’s Japanese grandmother. For fall, Gn revisited its motifs, which were hand painted in gouache and watercolor in his Paris studio, then printed in Lyon and crushed into Fortuny pleats using old-school techniques, creating a bridge between Japanese and French traditions.Gn makes a point of championing traditional savoir-faire, and he has turned his passion for late 19th century artistic movements, such as William Morris prints, into a house signature. This season, he amps up opulence with metallic antique gold, copper brocade, jewel tones and embellishments like vintage lace, plumes and jeweled details that nod to vintage Boucheron. (“Husbands love my pieces because you don’t have to invest in any more jewelry,” he said.) A simple ’60s shift, for example, in rich greens from avocado to emerald, is trimmed with rhinestones dyed to match. A white, flared cheongsam shape might have ’40s-style puff sleeves and lace polka dots inspired by the Viennese Secession. A pleated halter number, in pleated teal, channels Marilyn Monroe by way of Gn-land. Elsewhere, what looks like an embellished white blouse with bronze chrysanthemum brocade skirt is, in fact, a trompe l’oeil dress with vintage Art Deco lace on the bib, reproduced especially for Gn by Solstice.New this season is a Victorian-era rose chintz motif revisited in coral or earthy tones with jeweled buttons. A Regency-era lacquered Coromandel screen the designer picked up in England became a rich chocolate print that “lets me see the East from the West, from the life I live now,” he said.Whether Gn feels Parisian depends on the moment. He speaks fluent Mandarin, so he frequently spends off hours getting up to speed on Asian pop cultures via Weibo and YouTube. “There’s the European/Anglo Saxon side and the Eastern side, and I don’t think you have to decide,” he offered. “To be a whole person, you need both.”This collection manifested that worldview. Here’s betting that it will resonate with Gn’s loyal clientele, wherever they are.
|
Tina Isaac-Goizé
|
March 3, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/63fdf603ad7e80fe64fde318/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-andrew-gn-fall-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Andrew Gn
|
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/andrew-gn
|
Many will have noticed, as summer edged toward fall, that Rajwa Al-Saif, for her engagement to Crown Prince Hussein of Jordan, posted an official portrait in which she wore a white dress by Andrew Gn. It was simple, modern, and understated—but not overly conservative. The moment spoke volumes.“I like the idea of doing fashion bridal, not conservative bridal,” Gn said during a recent showroom visit. He also likes the idea of fashion weddings, when a runaway bride gets married in a caftan in Bali or a bride in Iceland wears some funky embroidered marabou coat or a bride at a destination wedding in India dons lots of crystal embellishments. Stay tuned for more news in that department.Meanwhile, Gn has been doing a brisk business in rehearsal and guest dresses, a less stressful category for all concerned. “There are enough people out there doing poufy dresses,” he quipped. “We want to keep things sophisticated and relaxed.”Gn speaks to a very specific consumer, though she comes in all shapes and sizes (from 0 to 24). She’s a woman who, he said, wants to focus on important things, like traveling, whether to physical places or in her mind. Or—why not?—through time: the farther away from the headlines, the better.Regardless of actual destinations, there were plenty of options in Gn’s spring collection, aptly named Voyage AGN. Anchored in the ’60s and ’70s (“When people were truly happy,” he said), it channeled an haute bohemian sense of hope.Gn’s base will thrill to signatures like trompe l’oeil lacing with jeweled clasps, a modernized take on a dress from his Victorian collection (minus the bow, plus crystals), and bone-structured sleeves with hand-tacked plissé. Statement pieces such as a black car coat or a white Spencer were tricked out in fuchsia paisley trim (with or without those signature pleated cuffs). Almost-naive flowers in vintage silk velvet and silk satin were embroidered with black jets and sequins for a couture-level limited run of 30 jackets that recalled stained glass. Each one of those is unique, a way of “using what you have in the fridge to put out a meal,” the foodie designer noted.Elsewhere, a “very Anjelica Huston” sleeveless cheongsam in emerald Fortuny pleats was a showstopper among plenty of other options that nodded to the filmIn the Mood for Love.Dresses with necklace embellishments took one-and-done to the next level. Slouchy pajama pants, a new look for the designer, whispered relaxed elegance. Prints extrapolated from 19th-century English chintz dallied with psychedelic paisley: Not an obvious marriage, but it worked.For Gn, multiple currents and riots of color are a way of signaling optimism for the future. “It’s the only way to be,” he said.
|
Tina Isaac-Goizé
|
September 30, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/633315471c5af9d45d42e84d/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-andrew-gn-spring-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Andrew Gn
|
fall-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/andrew-gn
|
As with most expats, Singapore’s most famous fashion son knows that moving to France doesn’t quite make you French. Andrew Gn, like many before and since (this reporter included), integrated while staying true to his roots—and also worked like hell and made the rest up as he went along. Paris was his promised land.From the idea of cross-pollination—the creative mash-up of cultures and traditions—Gn drew inspiration for a collection that also marks his 30th year in France.During a visit to his showroom, the designer recalled how his mother used to take silk from Japanese obis to make a Singaporean national costume or an Indonesian batik to fashion a cheongsam or a skirt suit. “My family history is all about cross pollination; they brought things with them and transformed them,” he said.Blending that idea with this season’s salient trend, Gn added that, for him, “the new minimalism is maximalism of color.” Which is why a salt-and-pepper tweed jacket with tinted ostrich feather cuffs might have handmade cameo buttons with the likeness of a gladiator, or a revisited Mayan mask with dangling pearls. Those vibrant flourishes appeared in many iterations in a lineup the designer called “classic Gnette,” spanning strong-shoulder minidresses, lavishly pleated gowns, flowing fringed numbers in jewel tones, and the embroidered coats that his loyalists collect year in, year out.For prints, Gn looked to the things around him that he loves, like a Limoges porcelain vase he bought from the flea market with roses so bright, they’re almost kitsch (“I’ve always wondered if that was made for an export market,” he quipped). Those became a print in bright mint and pale yellow that the designer mused one might find on fabrics from South America. Elsewhere, a chrysanthemum print was reworked and recolored from a Suzy Wong collection a few years back.In the recent past, Gn was one of the designers lucky enough to find himself still producing lamé pleated gowns in mid-lockdown. Now that things are opening up again, his clientele’s social calendars are heaving with destination weddings. With some 80 looks to choose from here, they’ll probably find what they need.
|
Tina Isaac-Goizé
|
March 4, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/621f6072ffbf52d6d8c40307/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-andrew-gn-fall-2022-ready-to-wear-paris-credit-anne-combaz.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2022
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Andrew Gn
|
spring-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-ready-to-wear/andrew-gn
|
People may be out and about in Paris, but Andrew Gn is one designer who gets that, while we all may be eager to get dressed up and socialize again, something fundamental has shifted.“Now people want to dress in ways that stand the test of time,” Gn observed during a showroom visit. Which is why his spring outing is rife with investment pieces that are in it for the long haul. Several jumpsuits, say, or workhorse dresses with jeweled collars, or maybe a white suit with jeweled buttons and harem trousers for the modern bride. (The coming boom has his base spreadsheeting outfits, the designer notes).Seeing his clothes re-emerge from clients’ closets is always a rush for Gn. So he decided to heed a recurring request from at least one loyalist who literally wore a coral motif jacket from his 2011 cruise collection to bits. Since that’s one of Gn’s favorite signatures, the next thing he did was reach out to the Great Barrier Reef Foundation.The result is a reimagining of his classics, an awareness-raising hashtag—#CoralsAliveAGN—and plans to showcase those pieces with an international retailer. That motif, reimagined in white and gold brocade on a coat with detachable pleated cuffs, on maxi dresses with red dip-dyed feathers, or as a ’70s-inflected print, will offer plenty of mileage.Another major influence was the Elizabeth Taylor-Richard Burton filmBoom!Though dark-ish and a flop in its day, the designer points out that even yesterday’s lemons can change how you see the world now. Shot in 1968, the film is set on Sardinia, in a mid-century modern house with lashings of baroque decor. That and Taylor’s wardrobe make it worth the watch, he offered.In that spirit, a white dress with cap sleeves and strong, custom-shaped shoulders harks back to the ’80s, reviving the empowerment a V-shape can confer and creating a little personal space in the bargain. Ditto a coat dress with jeweled details, a dress with a ruched, draped waist, and a double-breasted jacket. Power sleeves riff on Restoration-era leg-of-mutton, worked in duchess satin or in 3D guipure featuring Gn’s beloved butterflies.The designer also uses lace as a romantic counterpoint, for example on a black dress dripping with tendrils inspired by ’20s-era confections. Vintage lace gets a second life in a short cocktail dress with puffed sleeves.As a finale, this season Gn will also finally get around to a proper launch for his accessories, going direct to consumers with the A handbag, embellished with hardware inspired by the work of sculptor Jean Arp, colorful belts and chandelier earrings, among other pieces. Here’s betting those turquoise and coral-colored numbers move fast.
|
Tina Isaac-Goizé
|
October 1, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/615486c02337b701ff4a0d62/master/w_1280,c_limit/00002-AndrewGn-Spring-22-Paris-credit-AnneCombaz.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2022
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Andrew Gn
|
fall-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/andrew-gn
|
By his own reckoning, Andrew Gn is a cat with nine lives. Despite facing down two serious medical setbacks in the past five years, the most recent just a couple of months ago, he is working his way back to top form. He reckons he has seven more lives to go, at least, and he’s not wasting a minute.Not one for brooding or nostalgia, Gn prefers to keep pushing forward, taking with him the things he’s always loved (and collected), like chinoiserie. He shot the video accompanying this collection in his apartment, so one immediately gets the mix he favors for his personal surroundings and why his ladies identify so closely with him. They occupy the same world.For fall, favorite items—an early 18th-century Queen Anne cabinet or a 19th-century coromandel screen—inspired lush brocades and rich prints. A brocade evening coat in emerald on a maroon ground, or a slightly more subtle version in bronze against slate, features handmade jeweled buttons and pearl edging, which is the designer’s bid to give the over-neglected jewel a new style of wear. A clever emerald leopard print nods to Henri Rousseau’sLe Rêve, a reference to Gn’s taste for exoticism. Crystal and cabochon embellishments simultaneously reference Rococo and tribal inspirations, ranging from a touch of sparkle on the sleeves of a beige coat with a white fur collar to full-on silver inserts covering a little black number with one of the season’s other signature flourishes, removable pleated cuffs.Gn also revisited a few signatures. Followers of the designer’s heritage Instagram account will recognize a futuristic, winglike take on the pagoda shoulders he’s been honing since his pan-Asian collection of 2003—a shape that nods to his obsession with traditional dance costumes in Bali and Thailand. “It’s powerful, but it also makes a woman look very feminine,” Gn offered, nodding to a bolero jacket in vibrant red. (It also comes in black.)Statement colors are one of Gn’s strong suits, as on a jeweled bolero in a mustardy “Beijing yellow” or travel-friendly Fortuny-pleated lamé tops and gowns in fuchsia, beetle green, or gold. Those were offset by romantic pastel shades like lilac, periwinkle, or the blush pink Gn chose as an accent color at home. That brings an added layer of meaning to a collection that, despite being officially titled Hope and Glory—a tribute to the late Dame Vera Lynn—could well be subtitled Homage à Ma Maison.And given that Gn’s maison is celebrating its 25th anniversary this year, he’s mulling loyalists’ requests to reedit some old favorites. “They ask because they’ve worn the original ones to pieces, and now people are very eager to get out and enjoy life and look wonderful again,” he offered. That, and one can only buy so much cashmere loungewear.
|
Tina Isaac-Goizé
|
March 5, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/603e46ff907b74c4508451cf/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Andrew-GN-Fall-21.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2021
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Andrew Gn
|
spring-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2021-ready-to-wear/andrew-gn
|
For anyone who figures that showing via Zoom is respite from the runway, Andrew Gn would like to set the record straight: Doing things virtually is even more work-intensive. To that end, he spent the last several months upping his technical savvy, and he brought the young Swiss filmmaker Le Jozy to his light-filled, Coromandel-lined showroom salon to shoot the four-minute video revealed here.“Like so many, during lockdown I was reassessing my purpose and my work—there’s so much energy that goes into handling uncertainties, and that’s even before you start designing the clothes,” Gn said. The eye-opener came when an old friend called from San Francisco to place an order because she wanted to look forward to wearing it at Christmas.“I realized that in times like these we should always project, find something positive,” he observed. “Beauty is such an important thing in life. If you don’t see beauty, you don’t see the future.” He named his spring collection “May there be light.” For Gn, happier times mean blue skies and the purity of white, with ample texture and haute bohemian mixes of transparency and guipure lace, as well as practical flourishes like a removable statement collar. Joie de vivre, he realized, can be as easy as a swish of fringe (not coincidentally a favorite on TikTok). And he channeled hope into prints with painterly, contemporary impressions of cherry blossoms on a black, sky blue, or café au lait ground.In a more figurative vein, the designer looked to the kimonos his mother wore in the ’70s for “Iris Border,” a panoramic print he used on midi dresses and a trio of long silhouettes, notably a jumpsuit with a bustier top. As usual, he also reached further back, to the 17th century for his collars and to the 18th for a crossover drape inspired by dresses “à la Polonaise,” adapted on the sleeve of an otherwise minimal belted jacket in summer denim.Gn also made a bid for brevity, for example in a thigh-grazing white plissé dress with black and white daffodil appliqué, in black and white tweed dresses embellished with buttons inspired by a Maltese cross, and in a number of looks with high-waisted shorts. (After wearing sweats for so long, there’s also joy in flashing a little leg, the designer quipped.)Absent the occasion to wear sumptuous evening gowns, Gn noted that his base is asking for clothes that are “comfortable but not one-wear wonders.” His response for evening: a strong-shouldered black column dress he calls the Joan Crawford, which also happens to be reasonably priced for the designer’s habitual eco-sphere. “Now is not the moment to be weird,” he said. “The future is happening now, and my job is to bring pleasure and hope.”
|
Tina Isaac-Goizé
|
October 2, 2020
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5f74bf21cade8c1023859995/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-andrew-gn-RTW-spring-21.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2021
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Andrew Gn
|
fall-2020-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-ready-to-wear/andrew-gn
|
Everyone in fashion knows that Andrew Gn is a brilliant colorist. Even when he’s doing minimalism, he’s staying true to his maximalist heart whether through fabric, saturated color, or embellishment. His fall show opened with a case in point: a series of comparatively austere, solid-colored dresses, in sober black or white embellished with vintage handcrafted buttons. Those were followed by jewel-tone dresses, with or without fabulous faux bijoux, at times in meticulously pleated, sultry lamé. One fitted emerald midi-dress, for example, featured rose-hued jewels anchored at the neckline and was lefttremblantat the ends. At that point, the designer was still just warming up.Backstage before the show, Gn mentioned that he’d been revisiting George Cukor’s 1976 American-Soviet children’s fantasy filmThe Blue Bird. The movie tanked at the box office despite a stellar cast, with Elizabeth Taylor as Mother/Queen of Light, Jane Fonda as Night, and Ava Gardner as Luxury. But all that OTT set Gn down a mystical path: think griffins, gold, galaxies, and epic yarns, from the Norwegian fairy taleEast of the Sun and West of the Moon(which Gn read in Chinese as a boy) toRamayanaand medieval mythology.Filtered through Gn’s prism, those disparate influences yielded an eye-catching story. Highlights included a couple of tweed ensembles; a brocade coat with jeweled buttons and Byzantine appliqués; and pieces with fragments of the cosmos frozen in sequins, for example on an oversized tweed coat and a long black gown. As a parting shot, the griffin appeared in a lavishly worked cape.As he readily admits, the designer is never happy with any one thing, and to wit he slipped a stylized letterAinto the mix on a grouping of bold-hued Byzantine prints. Not everyone can rock all that, but one thing seems clear: Every Gn loyalist out there will find something she loves in here that she can wear now and for seasons to come.
|
Tina Isaac-Goizé
|
February 29, 2020
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e595b0193d9960008ba86ee/master/w_1280,c_limit/_FIO0017.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2020
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Andrew Gn
|
pre-fall-2020
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2020/andrew-gn
| null | null | null | null |
pre-fall
|
2020
| null |
||
Andrew Gn
|
spring-2020-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/andrew-gn
|
Madame de Pompadour was the stated muse at Andrew Gn this season. She was, as the designer told it backstage before his show, the original influencer, impacting art and culture in the court of Louis XV. But that level of pomp and circumstance didn’t carry into Gn’s well-considered clothing—and thank heavens for it. A favorite of society types, Gn can play to the well-off and well-trod better than any, but his Spring 2020 collection had an irreverent bite of sauciness.Pearl and leather belts, boots, and earrings helped to counterbalance the prettiness of the clothing for sure, but Gn’s strict silhouettes in unexpected materials made this collection a recent highlight for him. Embroidered denim skirt suits, with ribbon-cinched waists and fluted hem skirts, were a smart subversion on high-fashion flou. Vegetable-dyed neon pink prints were not only sustainable, but read as easy, unfussy, and cool. The pieces that merited the mostoohsandaahsfrom the audience were the finale dresses, with appliqués and embroideries on citrus colors that would make their wearer the centerpiece of any gala or charity ball. The only qualm with these perfectly lovely and well-considered garments was in the presentation. The soundtrack was Lizzo and Missy Elliott’s “Tempo,” a song that chants, “Slow songs, they for skinny hoes, can’t move all of this here to one of those.” Gn’s clientele is diverse of citizenship and body type—why show this collection exclusively on ultra-thin models?
|
Steff Yotka
|
September 27, 2019
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5d8e554153f8040007bcdd6b/master/w_1280,c_limit/_ALE0005.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2020
|
ready-to-wear
|
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|
Andrew Gn
|
resort-2020
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2020/andrew-gn
|
A perennial go-to for clients with a fully saturated social agenda, Andrew Gn has been staging a youth-quake for several seasons now. Of course, in Gn’s world “elevated street” means that a fringed T-shirt may come with guipure appliqué, and top-stitched, fringed linen cargos may be finished with ribbons. These, together with the designer’s usual signatures—a print inspired by 18th-century wallpaper, a labor-intensive black-and-white dress with guipure appliqué—made this Resort collection one of his most successful in recent memory.That’s also because Gn has moved to take climactic extremes into consideration: Paris saw winter in June this year until a heat wave hit just in time for Couture Week. In response, Gn is incorporating more all-season outerwear, like tweed jackets, as well as straight-up Resort wear, so that his clients can pick up what they need when they need it.He is also becoming increasingly attuned to no-waste design. “We want to make beautiful pieces to keep, so you don’t need to buy 10 things, you can buy one,” he explained. Hence the recent incorporation of stocks of vintage lace or silk prints and more vegetal dyes. “It just takes a bit more patience and time [to source], and you find amazing things that will never be produced again,” he said. Case in point: He recently picked up a hoard of 1960s lace from a factory in Calais. Some of it turned up in Resort, as an overlay on a pink dress with a pleated skirt. On other pieces, Gn develops the embellishments himself, such as the white lace on a Wedgwood blue dress, or his signature butterflies.Gn’s customers tend to buy things and keep them forever—one of them coined the term “hallowed pieces,” the designer said. Now that his e-business has ramped up, he’s embarking on more experiential shopping, for example, with the likes of Moda Operandi: Last week in Paris, Gn mingled with his ladies at a private dinner cohosted by Princess Astrid of Liechtenstein. “For us, it’s always been about the experience,” the designer noted.
|
Tina Isaac-Goizé
|
July 11, 2019
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5d10b6455061e71e748c7aca/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Andrew-GN-Resort-SS20.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2020
|
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] |
||
Angel Chen
|
fall-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/angel-chen
|
Angel Chen’s fall collection came together in a uniquely nomadic way. Finally able to do a long wished-for trip to the Inner Mongolia—her fiancé is from the region—Chen and her team set up a movable studio and began exploring Inner Mongolian towns. “We drove to one place, we settled down, and we found the [local artisans] and worked on the collection together, the whole team,” she explained over Zoom. “It was a very dramatic experience for me because everything was made by someone that is very down to earth, they protect the environment and they love their farm, the place where they grew up. It’s like making the product right inside your home.”The result is a stunning collection, photographed across different Inner Mongolian landscapes, that brings together Chen’s exacting vision for silhouette and texture, with intricate local craftsmanship. The pieces run the gamut from the simple, like workwear-ready button-down shirts and jumpsuits hand-embroidered with cowrie shells, to ponchos, jackets, and hoodies in intricate woven tapestries featuring an image of a horse. A blanket made from a sweeping image of a landscape was fashioned into a sleeveless dress with a high collar, its bold green and orange matching the Inner Mongolian steppe.Elsewhere, a pair of wide-leg jeans with a ruffled and shaggy fur detail at the waist were cuffed extra wide—so wide that there are buttonholes to hold the cuff in place—showing a stenciled pattern painted underneath. Worn with a baby tee and a boho-style white felted coat with shaggy fur trim, it had a certain kind of ease yet also a glamour, like something Rihanna might wear. A quilted oversized jacket and trousers made of intricately woven jacquards and brocades likewise had real-life superstar appeal. Also special was a pair of dragon-printed jeans made from a special velvet denim developed by Chen. While it’s obvious that some of the pieces will not be available for wide retail distribution, the collection as a whole is infused with the designer’s point of view, connecting traditional artisanal traditions with modern silhouettes and, in the process, ensuring that these important crafts do not disappear.
|
Laia Garcia-Furtado
|
October 21, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6315bf8a8e0c1404123ba8e3/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-angel-chen-fall-2022-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2022
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Angel Chen
|
shanghai-spring-2022
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/shanghai-spring-2022/angel-chen
|
The first thing Angel Chen said over Zoom after her spring 2022 show in Shanghai was: “It is my dream. I have wanted to do this performance show for my whole life.”Staged in the West Bund Dream Center, the show brought together dancers—led by Ma Xiaolong, Zhang Yashu, and the Shanghai-based Indian artist Amey Sali—for a performance that told the story of a love between two dancers. Chen was inspired by traditional Chinese stories as well as films like 2000’sCrouching Tiger, Hidden Dragonand 2002’sHerofor both her collection and the show.The season marks a pivot from the luxurious streetwear she typically designs for something deeply rooted in historically Asian silhouettes. Long robe-like coats with wide sleeves and curved backs in lightweight silks, silk organzas, and cupro make up the bulk of the collection. Some are sheer, embroidered with phrases written in Chinese characters; Chen translated: “When the stars start to rise, and when the spring becomes autumn, and when the winter becomes summer—no matter which season we meet, I will always love you.” Others are hand-painted by Chen and Sali using techniques from his art practice, dipping, marbling, swirling, and blotting dyes and paints into the fabric.“Amey’s art is big and spectacular, so I didn’t cut small shapes,” Chen said. Even if the overall effect of her silhouettes is one of whooshing and swirling, she’s tailored each piece to be slightly different, either with large folded pleats at the back, high slits to allow various ways of belting at the sides, or cascades of ties down the front. Underneath, Chen has created hand-bleached and dyed oversized sets and several delicate ballerina dresses. (Before she was a designer, Chen trained in ballet.) “It’s really simple and clean shapes,” she continued.As our call concluded Chen reflected on the spirit of Shanghai during Fashion Week. “It feels like a new city,” she said of the post-COVID mood and subsequent influx of designers and uninhibited ideas. Chen has been one of Shanghai’s boldest, most thoughtful designers for a long time. Hopefully the new energy in China brings even more attention to her work.
|
Steff Yotka
|
October 18, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6166db25f7312e17ab41430b/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Angel-Chen-Shanghai-Spring-22-credit-Angel-Chen.jpg"
] |
shanghai
|
spring
|
2022
|
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] |
|
Angel Chen
|
fall-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/angel-chen
|
At Angel Chen’s runway show in Shanghai, models crept out of a black-painted bamboo thicket. When we speak over Zoom shortly after, she smiles at the scene, describing them as “little creatures.” Covered in shaggy neon shearlings and voluminous down-filled coats, Chen’s models do have the appearance of superhuman life forms. Toeing that line between fantastical and practical is one of her strengths as a designer, and while customers might not wear two shearling bulb hats one atop the other the way Chen styled them on the runway, it’s hard not to appreciate her willingness to push herself to seek out new silhouettes and shapes.As muse this season, the inimitable Chinese American actress Anna May Wong helped push Chen into new dimensions. While fashion has flirted with Wong’s life and glamour in the past, Chen refuses to see the actress as the elegant, aloof figure she is often thought to be by Western eyes. “She was fierce,” Chen says. “Like a dragon.” Wong’s 1931 filmDaughter of the Dragonwas a special point of reference, with stills from the movie laser-printed on denim. Bridging Chinese and Western culture has always been at the heart of Chen’s work, but it takes on a special significance now as hate crimes against Asian Americans are at a high. By showing Wong’s strength, Chen shows her own: As a designer she is also fierce, innovative, and boundary breaking.This season, she has worked to perfect the multipurpose garments she introduced about a year ago when she styled a jacket flipped upside down on her runway. Her Canada Goose collaboration for spring 2021 continued the idea, and now for fall 2021 she has built a vertical switch into every garment. A bomber jacket with neon yellow ruffles at its hem flips to become a cute cropped version with the ruffle framing the model’s face. A cloud-like puffa turns upside down with a giant fold-over collar. The most wearable version might be a cargo jacket with two dual collars, dual pockets, and dual snaps that can be rotated on a 180-degree angle so seamlessly, you can’t even tell which way is “right.” Are customers wearing Chen’s pieces upside down? “Not really,” she says, but with her many new innovations, it’s hard to imagine they won’t try.That multifunctional spirit carries throughout the entire collection. Hand-crocheted tops in acid green with small flowers and woolen fringe are pulled down and layered over skirts. A full-skirt dress in “wet dye” tie-dye—made from the same technique as Raf Simons’s first couture dresses for Dior—are made from memory nylon so the wearer can fluff out the skirt or crunch it into small pleats. After laser printing images of Wong and dragons onto denim, Chen and her team hand-bleached each piece to create an abstract print. It will pose a small problem at production; her entire studio was covered with bleach experiments for weeks before reaching the final product. But there is no question Chen will make sure the production run retains every bit of specialness as her show pieces. She’s a designer that leaves no seam unconsidered—hers are neon green this season, some even with dragons from her hometown temple embroidered in.
|
Steff Yotka
|
April 12, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6074481cccc2f39802484115/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-ANGEL-CHEN-FALL-21.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2021
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Angel Chen
|
spring-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2021-ready-to-wear/angel-chen
|
Angel Chen found a kindred spirit in painter Jiajia Wang, whose lively and kinetic works feature large cartoon eyes at their center. On a video call from her showroom in Shanghai, Chen explained that while she didn’t know Wang when they studied at Central Saint Martins together, she felt the works embodied the “Angel Chen spirit”—something fun and celebratory that bridges Eastern and Western cultures. Chen transformed Wang’s pink and blue paintings into prints, sometimes rendered in all-over sequins and adorned with additional crystals for a shimmering, appropriately cartoonish effect. His multicolor works became a supersized print used on camp shirts and a pleated gown, the paint strokes visible.The most exciting propositions in Chen’s new collection have to do with form. She’s used a recycled nylon and memory polyester mix to create ruffles that crunch up and incorporated drawstrings into voluminous capes and utility trousers so silhouettes can shift from ballooning to slim. A collaboration with Canada Goose birthed a series of ingenious outerwear pieces that can be worn upside down, transforming from a boxy cropped shape to a bulbous cocoon. Chen began working with the company in February, visiting its headquarters just before COVID-19 shut down borders. On our video call, she showed off a neon pink anorak she’d styled into a bustier. Chen’s hybridized garments were already eye-catching, but in “these times” they’re bold and versatile in winning combination—especially when paired with her clunky boots with “dragon teeth” soles.
|
Steff Yotka
|
October 15, 2020
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5f885b071a7b5df1434133f7/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-ANGEL-CHEN-RTW-Spring-21.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2021
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Angel Sanchez
|
bridal-spring-2017
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/bridal-spring-2017/angel-sanchez
|
“Traditional wedding dresses with a modern touch, that’s what I do,” said Angel Sanchez after sending out a dozen swoon-worthy gowns that balanced old and new. With the opening of “Manus x Machina” just weeks away, the designer’s decision to combine handcraft with tech touches by fashioning pieces of 3-D laser-cut mirrored plexiglass into floral embellishments was particularly on point. The plexiglass was applied with the same lightness as the hand-cut blooms on the show’s single strapless gown. Only one strapless dress? That felt like news in itself, as was the fact that some of the numbers had sleeves, a rarity in a bridal market that, of late, has become increasingly fascinated with revealing and body-con dresses. One wouldn’t describe Sanchez’s designs as covered-up, but his use of sheer illusion, overlays, and inserts celebrated the body while leaving something to the imagination. The power of innuendo was emphasized by the smooth soundtrack of Ella Fitzgerald and Louis Armstrong songs.Sanchez expanded his palette this season, with the addition of smoky grays and icy blues. The latter was the color of a bubble-hemmed gown that had a particularly luxurious sweep. He made use, too, of laces of many varieties, from threadwork to macramé, on gowns with couture-like, 1950s silhouettes. The success of this collection was the way that the past informed the present.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
April 15, 2016
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/570ff2d1e734015f71da603f/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-angel-sanchez.jpg"
] |
bridal
|
spring
|
2017
|
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] |
|
Angel Sanchez
|
bridal-fall-2016
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/bridal-fall-2016/angel-sanchez
|
“Romance! Couture![Cristóbal] Balenciaga!” enthused Angel Sanchez backstage after sending a dozen bridal valentines down the runway. With this collection he proved that love is no illusion—though the designer used lots of it to add flirty touches to somewhat untraditional bridal gowns. Some featured a semi-exposed slice of belly, others sheer bodices and backs on which flowers seemed to float. (Instagram can keep its mask-out bars.) To his all-white palette Sanchez added touches of rosé. A flower-fronted strapless column with a scalloped bodice, for example, had hand-cut pink petals at the center back—nice to look at during the ceremony—and among the generous pleats of a showy and voluminous Infanta gown (à la Cristóbal), Sanchez unforgettably strung pink, feminine bows.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
October 9, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/56184b162a2d27656d619d5d/master/w_1280,c_limit/angel-sanchez-bridal-fall-2016-01.jpg"
] |
bridal
|
fall
|
2016
|
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] |
|
Angelos Bratis
|
spring-2016-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/angelos-bratis
|
GiveAngelos Bratisthe plainest piece of fabric and in no time it’ll be transformed into a draped wonder. He is an intuitive dressmaker: He’s adamant about not being called a “designer.” No sketches or mood boards for him—just thoughtful consideration of body shape. “Working on this collection was a sort of therapy for me,” said Bratis during a walk-through held in a light-filled, hypermodern space where models where standing in front of a maze of mirrors that reflected the surrounding forest of skyscrapers, part of a newly built Milanese architectural landscape.Bratis retreated to his native Greek village in the mountains near Athens to put together a lineup of beautiful dresses with the help of his mother. “She is a great seamstress—she taught me everything!” he said, pointing out liquid bias-cut polka-dot numbers cut from a single piece of silk, with decorative smock motifs hand-sewn with contrasting thread. “I was thinking about the myth of Ariadne; my Greek heritage comes up in the most unexpected ways through memories, images, dreams. I love geometry, arithmetic, the mathematics of dance, the logic game of music and rhythm.” But there is nothing conceptual about Bratis’s creative process: He’s a sensualist, and his dresses reveal love and respect for the female body. Their shapes had a free flow; they were cut in fluid, languid fabrics and built with sophisticated draping effects, their asymmetric hems skimming the body and giving way to a soft, undulating movement. Not surprisingly, Aegean blue was the color of choice, an homage to Bratis’s homeland that was also expressed in the melancholic melodies played by the harpist Vanja Contu, clad in one of Bratis’s elegant kaftans.
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
September 26, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5606c937c800de5c211d4f13/master/w_1280,c_limit/angelos-bratis-spring-rtw-2016-look-01.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2016
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Angelos Bratis
|
fall-2015-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/angelos-bratis
|
After last season's debut chez Armani Teatro—a sort of imprimatur—Angelos Bratis wisely decided not to stage another show. His touch, after all, is way too subtle and his dresses way too complex and deceptively elementary to resist being visually swallowed by a stroll on the catwalk. Instead, Bratis opted for a cozy presentation inside the apartment of a well-known, well-to-do bon vivant.The context served its purpose: Bratis' creations fully revealed their magic when exposed among vintage prints, tons of books, and refined furniture. The clothes, made in wool and silk, constructed with a single seam, were as virtuoso as it can get, flowing and coiling around the body with natural ease. Bratis makes dresses and he only showed dresses, in a moody and precious color palette of dense autumnal colors. Leather accessories developed in collaboration with Justin Capp—harness-like halters and waistbands cut in a single sheet of leather—added a slight frisson of fetish, which created a nice off-balance tingle. The collection felt mature and accomplished.Bratis is a dressmaker, not an image-maker, which is quite an interesting position to occupy in contemporary fashion. Unfortunately, it showed in his lookbook images this season: Oozing brash '70s sass, they undermine the sensual delicacy and effortless elegance of the pieces, which is a pity.
|
Angelo Flaccavento
|
February 28, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c651dc08298d8be2296c9a/master/w_1280,c_limit/Angelos-Bratis-01-1366.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2015
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Angelos Bratis
|
spring-2015-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/angelos-bratis
|
A Greek passport with an Italian address—this season Angelos Bratis joined the coterie of newcomers selected by Giorgio Armani to show in his Teatro Armani venue. Coming after Stella Jean and Au Jour Le Jour, both of whom were fairly flamboyant, Bratis set a different tone: His models seemed both fierce and solemn. The designer studied at the Netherlands' Fashion Institute Arnhem before moving to Italy and winning the first prize at the Who Is On Next contest in 2011. He seemed like a natural choice for Armani: The two share a minimalist sensibility and a taste for pared-down purity, not to mention a proclivity for muted, dusty colors. Comparisons stop there, however—Bratis is not interested in the interplay between the masculine and the feminine, nor is he dressing the working woman. Having been in the spotlight for a while, he focused his Spring collection on what he does best: dresses.Bratis is a technician. He doesn't work on themes, instead relying solely on the possibilities of ingenious draping and a bias cut to build his creations. Many of the dresses he showed for Spring were cut from a rectangle of fabric, molded around the body with a single seam. Rather than monotony, there was strength in the repetition: The show was an engaging progression of forms, one more complicated than the other. Cuts were accented by color blocks, and angular intarsia inspired by the paintings of the late Greek artist Yannis Moralis. There were a few clumsy numbers, but as a whole the collection gave off a sense of effortless ease, with a slight erotic charge.Surprisingly, the overwhelming vastness of the Teatro didn't clash with the subtlety of the show. "This theater is monumental," Bratis said backstage. "But my women are monumental, too. They need to be—wearing my little nothings requires a strong personality."
|
Angelo Flaccavento
|
September 17, 2014
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c651c308298d8be2279648/master/w_1280,c_limit/BRA_0012.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2015
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Anja Gockel
|
fall-2013-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2013-ready-to-wear/anja-gockel
|
We're posting runway pictures from Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin for the first time. See the full list of designers here. To read our daily reports on the collections, visit our Style File blog. And don't miss our street-style coverage.
| null |
January 15, 2013
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6510208298d8be219e780/master/w_1280,c_limit/ANJA_GOCKEL_001_1366.1366x2048.JPG"
] |
fall
|
2013
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Ann Demeulemeester
|
spring-2025-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/ann-demeulemeester
|
On Saturday night, the Ann Demeulemeester show took place in a hulled-out modern building flanking the Montparnasse train station. One day it will become offices and a school. But for now it offers up a large, rough-hewn space with a very long runway, lined on this occasion with a trail of white lilies. It was pretty, if a tad funereal. On every seat was an envelope with a moody “Wall of Reference” printed in black and white. It name-checked Hunter S. Thompson, medieval poet François Villon, Dennis Hopper, Jack Kerouac, and Stevie Nicks, among others. Nicks’s handwritten lyrics for “Rhiannon” appeared on the last page. There was a musical introduction by way of a live performance on electric guitar. That was pretty long too.What was clear is that creative director Stefano Gallici, now three seasons into his role, is feeling more at home. During a preview, the designer explained that he came to fashion through music, namely punk, indie, and garage. At the time, he played in a band (My Bloody Valentine and Dinosaur Jr. were favorites), and his mother was a major Fleetwood Mac fan. While he chose to dive back into his teenage obsessions, this collection wasn’t just about his own experience, he said. The brand—part mindscape, part autobiography—has attracted a younger community that’s highly engaged and constantly evolving.“It was unexpected, even to me, but this young tribe feels seen [by us],” he said. “We touch the kids who don’t recognize themselves in the contemporary music field, and they want to express what they stand for in fashion and art. What I want to bring them is not just a series of shows and collections, but also a musical and cultural landscape.”Gallici doesn’t particularly relish the termmuse,but it’s fair to say that Nicks, notably in herBella Donnaperiod, struck the dominant chord for spring. Models and musicians—Shane Hawkins among them—emerged in moody looks leavened by powder pink, lilac, mauve, and very pretty pieces in chiffon lasered into English eyelet. There was a lashing of New Romanticism, flou floral silks, and hammered satins, paired variously with distressed, patched, and embroidered denim, hand-distressed jersey, and pants cut on the bias. Gallici said he was using the rawness of lace on bare skin, feathery knits, deconstructed and inside-out tailoring, and slouch to conjure a feeling of absent-mindedness—or what he called the “endless possibilities of lost and found.”Whatever that means, Gallici arguably conjured all the hits in a way that should prove commercial. It’s the kind of music the Ann Demeulemeester crowd knows when they hear it. They were out in force on Saturday, all dressed up and ready to follow wherever the night may lead. They took the lilies with them.
|
Tina Isaac-Goizé
|
September 29, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/66f85a44096157430b0b4ab4/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-ann-demeulemeester-spring-2025-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2025
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Ann Demeulemeester
|
fall-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-ready-to-wear/ann-demeulemeester
|
Given the kind of idolatry Ann Demeulemeester inspires, creative director Stefano Gallici said he felt, with this sophomore show, like he was once again embarking on a new beginning.“Ann has been so many things. I wanted to approach the archives like a mind-scape,” he said during a preview, listing among his primary inspirations the founder’s constructivist period and an emphasis on shapes, volumes, and materials. “For me, there is this metaphoric way of interpreting my surroundings, like carving a path through the forest,” he mused. “There’s always a boundary to surpass.”Though he takes his cues from house archetypes, the designer said he is gradually stepping back a bit from the archives (“but in a smooth way”) to incorporate some of his own signatures. While waistcoats, tailored trousers, a three-piece suit, and a certain slouchy ease remained central to the plot, there were new twists like a leather Perfecto, more structured outerwear, and a taste for leather and lace—in one instance embroidered with thorns—that skewed very Stevie Nicks.On the runway, however, the emotion seemed amiss, as if the brand’s usual melancholic romance and a sense of yearning had been replaced by something palpably more angry, more angsty, less achy. That may have been a styling issue: Taken piece by piece, the designer ticked off many of the season’s trends—handsome burgundy leathers paired with blush silk and satin, a panel wrap trimmed in shearling, shaggy coats, DIY-inflected macramé tops, a leather apron dress, overcoats trimmed with fur, and a darkly romantic overcoat in crushed black velvet. Many pieces looked perfectly nice; none looked new.Which brings us back to that forest metaphor. As Gallici himself noted, “Sometimes when you get lost, you have to find a new way.” It seems clear he’s still mid-process: Deciding to put himself out there is the next boundary he’ll have to surpass.
|
Tina Isaac-Goizé
|
March 3, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/65e39019c1ae07ef6f7854b1/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-ann-demeulemeester-fall-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Ann Demeulemeester
|
spring-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/ann-demeulemeester
|
Starting your show more than an hour late is not the greatest way to make a first impression. Stefano Gallici, who was promoted from menswear designer to creative director at Ann Demeulemeester when Ludovic de Saint Sernin exited after just six months, wasn’t served by the distant venue or the near total darkness in which we waited either.Having joined the brand in 2020, the 20-something Gallici does have a decent handle on Demeulemeester signatures like androgynous tailoring and white shirts and leather bibs and harnesses. The royal blue of a stretchy sheer dress looked like it was inspired by the same color in an iconic spring 1998 Demeulemeester show. Kirsten Owen, who appeared in the lineup tonight, walked that runway 25 years ago. But things were weighed down here by multipocketed pants and overskirts and the ribbons that trailed off many of the looks and dragged on the runway—all 100 meters of it. Demeulemeester was a most poetical designer, but she also stood for a kind of rigor.Preshow, Gallici posted a handwritten note to his Instagram account that closed with a kind of mantra: “Awareness and respect, rather than deference and orthodoxy.” That sounds fair enough. Tastes have changed since Demeulemeester was making her definitive 1990s collections, and brands have become too comfortable with unfiltered reissues. What this sweeping collection lacked was its own sense of definitiveness. That may come with more time.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 30, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6519463a48748858f852bd72/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-ann-demeulemeester-spring-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Ann Demeulemeester
|
fall-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/ann-demeulemeester
|
Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s Ann Demeulemeester debut was bookended by identical looks, the first in black and the last in white. They featured a feather bandeau sculpted from leather—feathers being a treasured Demeulemeester motif—and a bias-cut maxi skirt whose hems swirled around the model’s feet as she stalked down the runway in knee-high stiletto boots. “It’s my way of saying that after this first step I’ll be spreading my wings and then be able to express myself,” he said of the double-up.For season one, though, De Saint Sernin set out to pay tribute to the designer whose house he inherited. He said he poured over Rizzoli’s 2014 book of Demeulemeester’s collections, and requested 80-some looks from the house archives to personally try on. Familiarizing himself with her output was the right instinct. De Saint Sernin has carved a niche for himself with sex-positive crystal chainmail tanks and leather micro shorts for all genders, but Demeulemeester’s fans are fiercely loyal, and not likely to be easily won over by the new kid on the block—especially perhaps if that new kid isn’t a woman.It’s worth noting, though, that de Saint Sernin has the house founder’s blessing. Demeulemeester is friends with the label’s new owner Claudio Antonioli, and she and de Saint Sernin met up when he got the gig. “She gave me the best advice, which was ‘work hard and do the best you can do.’”The best of what we saw on tonight's runway were the men’s suits, worn in signature Demeulemeester style with undone white button-downs, their cuffs extending a few inches past the jackets. Also strong: the marvels that are those bias-cut silk skirts. Most were in silk and paired with shearling shrugs and capelets, but de Saint Sernin cut one in chiffon, so all of the tucks and darts that allow them to drape the way they do would be apparent. In place of shirts, the models’ arms were crossed over their bare breasts, “almost like dove,” he said.It was a tender gesture, but he could have pushed himself further. What does his version of Demeulemeester’s tank top look like? And what about tailored jackets and coats? It’s a fall season, remember. And given that de Saint Sernin is such a big proponent of fluidity, the female models could’ve used a low-heeled boot like the men wore—and vice versa. That said, his Demeulemeester debut proves de Saint Sernin has range. The curious and the committed will be back next season to see which way he spreads his wings.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
March 4, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6403b7c1d442de2da8dcf1a6/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-ann-demeulemeester-fall-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Ann Demeulemeester
|
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/ann-demeulemeester
|
Cher’s arrival at the dispossessed parking garage turned event venue for the Ann Demeulemeester show was a happening all its own. A ripple of applause ran through the cavernous industrial space, and even front-row editors rose from their seats to snap a picture. The brouhaha was even bigger after the show.What happened in between was a restrained study of light and dark (mostly dark), from a studio that counts Martin Margiela alums among its number. The tailoring was masterful: oversized jackets with dropped lapels paired with ample, flowing trousers; long-sleeve, fitted crewneck tops serving as an understated foil for fishtail skirts. Staccato-succinct show notes specified that white cotton shirts—“the absolute icon of the brand”—had “unfolded in other expressions and attitudes,” which meant that some had grown into fitted, floor-length dresses, and others were caught, as if flash frozen, beneath a whisper-thin layer of fine knit in front, their backs cinched by a thin strap or two. The same mantra returned again and again in black or white with subtle plays on texture. The glossy black leather slip dresses with yawning backs looked commercial enough, but the poetry was AWOL.For decades now, the Ann Demeulemeester base has been hooked on a very specific register of weeping willow chic. Despite the occasional tendril floating from a buttonhole, back, or belt—or, inexplicably, rings—that aesthetic seems to have been diluted with the company’s relocation, under new stewardship by Claudio Antonioli, from Antwerp to Milan. Either the studio was playing it safe in uncertain times—in which case they had good company this season—or this outing was some sort of sartorial palate cleanser, a play for time, a prelude to renewed relevancy. Since one of spring’s biggest buzzwords has beenoptimism, let’s just hope for the latter.
|
Tina Isaac-Goizé
|
October 2, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/633966c6c32fec0ac42eb3ef/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-ann-demeulemeester-spring-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Ann Demeulemeester
|
fall-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/ann-demeulemeester
|
Held over from January’s Pitti courtesy of Omicron, tonight’s third collection but first live presentation of the rebooted Ann Demeulemeester was shown in the Réfectoire des Cordeliers. This moody Gothic remnant—once one of Paris’s most-used show spaces—was Demeulemeester’s venue of choice before she exited the label back in 2013: She returned to its mournful walls this evening to see how brand savior Claudio Antonioli’s design team is interpreting her source code.The Réfectoire has been unromantically renovated recently—its new wooden floor looks like that of an ostensibly upscale airport coffee shop—and thus the space’s authentic 700-year-old gloom has been tangibly suppressed. This collection, too, looked like a careful renovation that focused on the surface without considering enough the atmosphere. “Good fashion is like rock music: all anarchy and revolt,” is a line ascribed to Demeulemeester. This evening, however, there was no anarchy, no revolt.It looked like the team had studied the archives, identified some recurring motifs, and then gone all-in on repeating them ad nauseam. What that gave us was long-skirted oversized jackets in boiled wool, slim-fitted deep V-neck dresses, trenches, and then garments that combined or layered the three. The two signature elements were the strapping—of course—and the high-cut single vent at the back of the garments, whose height depended on modesty and what the garments were: Outerwear venting went to the vertebrae; dresses were vented to the buttock. The colors started in black then gradually expanded into blackish navy and blackish aubergine. The models all looked like they were heading to a meeting with their bank managers to declare themselves bankrupt, but romantically so.Designers with the rigidly individual signature of Demeulemeester or her close aesthetic cousin Yamamoto don’t change in order to keep abreast with the tastes of time. Instead, the tastes of time constantly change and just occasionally coincide with theirs: It’s that “even a stopped clock tells the right time twice a day” factor. Yet now, when Demeulemeester’s intellectual-depressive-poetic aesthetic makes sense again, the team should be ready to declare it with more fervor.
|
Luke Leitch
|
March 5, 2022
|
[
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] |
fall
|
2022
|
ready-to-wear
|
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|
Ann Demeulemeester
|
spring-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-ready-to-wear/ann-demeulemeester
|
It’s a new day at Ann Demeulemeester. Creative director Sébastien Meunier exited his post last year, and the brand came under new ownership not long after. Its buyer was Claudio Antonioli, a cofounder of the New Guards Group, who helped shepherd Off-White, County of Milan, and Ambush to global success. Antonioli has plans to return the Antwerp-based label to its darkly romantic glory. “For me, it’s really love,” he told my Vogue Runway colleague Laird Borrelli-Persson last season. “Ann is one of the most important designers in my life, and I think in the fashion system. It’s really authentic; I don’t want to change the brand.”Antonioli hasn’t reinstalled Ann as a design lead; a “ghost team” is responsible, but she’s part of the equation. The brand’s Antwerp flagship reopened this summer after a renovation by her husband, Patrick Robyn, and her handwriting is all over the new collection. The words that appear on several pieces and across some models’ faces in slanting, all-lowercase letters are recognizably her own.Before his departure, Meunier had drifted from the core Demeulemeester aesthetic, leaning boho or glam as the seasons went by. This reset closely borrows from Ann’sspring 1998collection, the one that’s remembered for the “holy” tank tops the models wore and that the designer gave away to all her guests, and a blazer with a torso-crossing strap closure, which became a favorite of Ann’s friend and muse, Patti Smith. It’s apparently in the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame.That 24-year-old collection ranged far and wide compared to this one, which came in a strict palette of black and white, zeroed in almost only on denim and leather, and depended heavily on styling details like bowler hats and leather strapping. But despite all that, it was the right archival show to start with: It’s seared into the memory of those of us who are old enough to recall the ’90s as the peak of Belgian cool. And for those too young to have been there, it’s a clean slate of minimal tailoring, with plenty of 2020s slouch upon which they can build.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
October 3, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6159f0156e41f509195db3fd/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Ann-Demeulemeester-Spring-22-RTW-Paris-credit-Gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2022
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Ann Demeulemeester
|
fall-2021-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-menswear/ann-demeulemeester
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/60476d464669a3db4cbc79ff/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-ANN-Demeulemeester-Fall-21-RTW-Credit-WILLY-VANDERPER.jpg.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2021
|
menswear
|
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] |
||
Ann Demeulemeester
|
fall-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/ann-demeulemeester
|
The spell has been broken: Sweatpants are not forever. Love and Ann Demeulemeester have saved the day with soft, poetic tailoring.Powering this resurgence is Claudio Antonioli, the Italian retailer, businessman, and cofounder of New Guards Group, the company behind Off-White, Palm Angels, and other high-profile streetwear brands. He acquired Ann Demeulemeester last year, primarily for reasons of the heart. “For me, it’s really love,” said Antonioli on a video call. “Ann is one of the most important designers in my life, and I think in the fashion system. It’s really authentic; I don’t want to change the brand.”To that end, he’s in constant communication with the house founder and has hired her husband, Patrick Robyn, to work on the remodeling of the flagship in Antwerp, Belgium. Antonioli corralled photographer Willy Vanderperre and stylist Olivier Rizzo to produce the moody and romantic collection film; the collection was designed by a “ghost team.”Some of the fall pieces are remakes of things Ann Demeulemeester created decades ago, and much of the collection iterates on her distinctive, androgynous, and, as Antonioli notes, logo-less work.One of the Antwerp Six, Demeulemeester was a proponent of Belgian deconstructivism in the 1990s. Her take on the trend was extremely gentle and based on expert pattern making. Those ribbons that run diagonally and protectively across the body inside a jacket allow it to slouch off the shoulder. The Demeulemeester signature, as can be seen in this collection, istailoring.Tailoring that is sophisticated and sensual, comfortable and comforting, and has a morning-after sexiness to it.There’s an essentiality to the Demeulemeester vision, a wardrobe of several easy pieces: shirt, jacket, skirt, pants, tank, vest, and coat. These are all imbued with a gothic romance akin to that of the designer’s muse, Patti Smith, who is channeled in the film and look book for the new collection.The buzz around this relaunch isn’t about ’90s nostalgia: It speaks to the endurance and integrity of good design, and the power of an unwavering, individual vision. A list of designers with identities as absolute as Demeulemeester’s would be short, suggests Antonioli. He finds modernity in the androgyny of the designer’s vision, and has concrete proof, as a retailer who has worked with the brand since the late 1980s, that good design is timeless design.Going forward we can expect to see the Demeulemeester DNA closely followed. With a brand as singular as this, says Antonioli, “really, the only approach is that one. If I would like to make a commercial brand, I wouldn’t buy [an existing brand]; I would start with a new one.” The way he sees it: “I work for Ann Demeulemeester, not they work for me.” And that, folks, isamore.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
March 9, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/60476aa3d24e26a31c3a03de/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-ANN-Demeulemeester-Fall-21-RTW-Credit-WILLY-VANDERPER.jpg.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2021
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Ann Demeulemeester
|
spring-1998-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-1998-ready-to-wear/ann-demeulemeester
|
Following the thread of ourIn Vogue: The 1990s podcast,we are closing out the year and heading into the new one with a series of newly digitized archival shows from the decade that fashion can’t—and won’t—let go of. Ann Demeulemeester’s spring 1998 ready-to-wear collection was presented in October 1997 in Paris.Ann Demeulemeester, one to two female members of the Antwerp Six and a designer acclaimed for introducing deconstruction to fashion, retired in 2013, but rarely a day goes by that I don’t think about her work. The ways in which Demeulemeester built fluidity and nonchalance into clothes using ingenious cuts and poetic drapery have always moved me.Demeulemeester didn’t follow trends or use elaborate sets; instead she told stories and evoked deep emotions through materials and construction. Her process was as instinctual as it was innovative. She was her own fit model and her focus was always on “real” clothes, but ones that were nonetheless imbued with magic.The designer’s spring 1998 “Corps Humain” (Human Body) collection seems particularly resonant in this COVID-ravaged year, when each cough and every ache feels like a warning signal. We are hyper-aware of our bodies, our physicality, and our fragility. Demeulemeester, who recently started making pottery, has spent isolation with her husband Patrick Robyn in the Dutch countryside. She graciously agreed to share the story of “Corps Humain,” one of her favorite collections, with us. Read about it below.“The start was that I was thinking about Dadaism, the Dadaism of somebody like Marcel Duchamp, one of my favorite artists. I was a bit in that mood, [and then] I discovered a poem of Allen Ginsberg called “Footnote to Howl”—that is one thing. The second thing is that Patti Smith had a new record out and with exactly that poem she made a song.It was really this kind of magic moment when I heard it; it was really like a magic spell. This poem talks about everything—really everything—that is holy. I was already working with my Dadaistic idea of the body, and then to have all of a sudden this word and everything attached to it, I just had to work with that. [Ginsberg] says this also: “the body is holy, you are holy, the arm is holy.”
|
Ann Demeulemeester as told to Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
December 26, 2020
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5fd79c4165f653f459ba4fa3/master/w_1280,c_limit/037-ann-demeulemeester-spring-1998-ready-to-wear-CN10054608-kirsten-owen.jpg"
] |
spring
|
1998
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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]
] |
|
Anna K
|
kiev-spring-2018
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/kiev-spring-2018/anna-k
|
Kiev Fashion DaysDesigner Anna Karenina, who launched her career at 16, has grown up design-wise. In the past, her pieces have been rather young. Now 21, her Spring collection is mostly focused on eveningwear with a more adult touch. The dresses were indeed pretty. A body-hugging white number with flared pink sleeves and mesh ruffle that cut across the thigh was a standout, as was a red dress with tiered, layered ruffles at the waist. Amidst pieces like that, a mesh bodysuit with a waistband emblazoned withFront Row Onlyappeared try-hard, and an oversize denim jacket could have done without the superfluous embellishments on the arms.Karenina has future plans beyond designing. She is looking to disrupt the industry and introduce fashion coins, a concept similar to Bitcoin, that will allow consumers to purchase her looks using the currency. A novel concept, to be sure. She’s someone to keep an eye on.
|
Liana Satenstein
|
September 5, 2017
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/59a9f0ab327a7408ed37fbaf/master/w_1280,c_limit/KCH_8899.jpg"
] |
kiev
|
spring
|
2018
|
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]
] |
|
Anna K
|
kiev-fall-2017
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/kiev-fall-2017/anna-k
|
At 21, Anna K designer Anna Karenina (formerly Kolomoets) is a bit of a mini celebrity in Ukraine. Her designs are worn by the It-girl daughters of famous Ukrainian and Russian pop stars, and Kris Jenner has sported a piece by the young designer. Also, the label is commercially important: Anna K has been sold in several international stores, including Lane Crawford and Colette, and Karenina has her own shop in Kiev’s newly erected TSUM department store, which is where she held her show.Pieces like trousers with asymmetrical ruffles, a black turtleneck withKiss Meemblazoned on the front, and a light pink silk robe dress were fun and well suited for her young customer base. Karenina, who just madeForbes’s “30 Under 30 Europe” list, has big plans to expand in the future. Keep an eye out.
|
Liana Satenstein
|
February 7, 2017
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/58971fda7edfa70512d694fb/master/w_1280,c_limit/KCH_5602.jpg"
] |
kiev
|
fall
|
2017
|
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]
] |
|
Anna K
|
kiev-spring-2017
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/kiev-spring-2017/anna-k
|
Label:Anna KFounder: Anna KareninaYear established: 2012Known for: Girlish, frilly styles adorned with embellishments like pearls and bows, as well as loose, ethereal silhouettes.Spring 2017 inspiration: The carefree looks ofJane Birkin, which Karenina channeled through plenty of ruffles, pastel hues, and slices of midriff.Worn by:Lily Collins, Kris Jenner
|
Liana Satenstein
|
September 2, 2016
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/57c8b530602df97e79a16206/master/w_1280,c_limit/Anna_K_01.jpg"
] |
kiev
|
spring
|
2017
|
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]
] |
|
Anna K
|
kiev-spring-2016
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/kiev-spring-2016/anna-k
|
Founder: Anna KareninaYear established: 2012Known for: A quirky sensibility inspired by fairy tales; Karenina just turned 19, and her clothes are already sold in more than 40 stores worldwideWorn by: Elizabeth Henstridge and Lily CollinsSpring 2016 Inspired by: The pearl-lined power of youthful fairytales.
| null |
September 8, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55edbf662e9497e0471424de/master/w_1280,c_limit/_AG21315.jpg"
] |
kiev
|
spring
|
2016
|
[
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]
] |
|
Anna K
|
kiev-fall-2015
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/kiev-fall-2015/anna-k
|
Founder: Anna KareninaYear established: 2012Known for: A quirky sensibility inspired by fairy tales; Karenina just turned 19, and her clothes are already sold in more than 40 stores worldwideWorn by: Elizabeth Henstridge and Lily CollinsFall 2015 inspiration:The Little Match Girlfairy tale
|
Ekaterina Pizhova
|
March 29, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650b608298d8be214decb/master/w_1280,c_limit/_A2X2287.jpg"
] |
kiev
|
fall
|
2015
|
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] |
|
Anna October
|
spring-2025-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/anna-october
|
This season fashion has largely chosen to react to the current sociopolitical and economic chaos with a kind of peaceful protest expressed through softness and prettiness. These attributes are, of course, often found in lingerie, by which Anna October is always inspired. “My constant thinking is about the female body and femininity and how we can use clothes as liberating instruments,” she said on a walk-through. Soft power, then.That October and her Ukraine-based team continue to keep the faith in the face of the unimaginable challenges they face is remarkable and laudable. Some people find solace in gardening; this season it was part of October’s inspiration. Top of mind were “life cycles” and how a garden is “blooming, then it’s dying, then new things are coming,” she explained. “I think that in times of big changes in the world, in times of cataclysms, the only way to keep sane and to keep growing as a human is to build something beautiful.”How does October’s garden grow for spring? The signature tulip brassiere detail was back. Some of the silken, bias-cut slip dresses featured tiny floral bead embroideries as delicate as the hand-painted porcelain (think Meissen) they referenced. A more personal memory of Linden blooming in May resulted in an embroidery of that flower. Several crochet dresses featured pendant blooms.There were also a number of then-now hybrids for spring. Sometimes it seems as if October is in dialogue with Madeleine Vionnet as she refines and refines her bias-cut slip dresses. “I’m constantly in the process of developing that dress,” she noted. A black-and-white number could be for a latter day Joan Crawford, much like the first look with what might be the season’s most sensual back, with arches inspired by the architecture in Kiev, updates that brought a Jean Harlow vibe in a manner that felt now rather than vintage.There were playful looks as well: See a meringue-like pink bustier paired with a full skirt with a ruffle-edged dropped yoke. The final three looks spoke to a more pared-back and sophisticated aesthetic. A gold knit dress that a colleague thought fit for a Joan of Arc was knit of a yarn so fine that it resembled metal mesh. More romantic, yet at the same time somehow restrained, was an embellished cape of a nearly sheer Japanese taffeta.Moving beyond the floaty and slippery materials she usually favors, October used jersey, which clings to the body rather than skims it as satin does, to craft a long white dress with a tank silhouette that extended down to a triangular basque waistline from which the softly gathered fabric falls. This look was an invitation to dance, to glide through the world with confidence and grace. It was mindful, body conscious, not demure—and all the better for it.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
September 25, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/66f2f70e8fd1f510c6bd047b/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-anna-october-spring-2025-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2025
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Anna October
|
pre-fall-2024
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2024/anna-october
|
For the last two-plus years, since she landed in Paris just after the Russian invasion of Ukraine, Anna October has moved from strength to strength against all odds. And she’s seen some long-held dreams come true, as part of the “Women Dressing Women” feature inVogue’s March issue, in an ongoing collaboration with J. Crew (where her latest capsule of summer cocktail-and-wedding-guest looks drops in June), and in her day-to-day life.Now, she reckons, it’s time to build. “After 14 years running a brand, I no longer want to sit around and think about who I am. It’s time to assert myself as a designer,” October offered during a phone call from her fast-growing studio in Kyiv. “Yes, I can do a beautiful dress. But it’s about more than that. I’m looking at bigger themes.” Despite what this lookbook might appear to suggest: no, October is not expecting.Describing these images as an extension of last season’s botanical garden theme, she said she got excited about stylist Omaima Salem’s idea of having Pegah Farahmand photograph mothers and children. “I’m tired of glamorizing only skinny girls in heels,” she quipped. “Now I want to shine a light on the poetry of everyday life.”Leaning into an obsession with vintage glass, porcelain, and lavish dinner spreads, October gleaned inspiration from the hyper-realistic work of British artist Issy Wood, transposing delicate 3D florals onto a white bustier or a Wedgwood blue skirt hand-embroidered by women artisans in Ukraine. Those, plus a sleeveless ivory column dress wrested into a knotted front, represent a new avenue for the designer, who these days finds grounding in texture and relief. A white slip dress with a bodice in beaded crochet looked strong. So did a draped, fitted ivory taffeta bustier, paired here with a black taffeta skirt.But a newfound diversity in terms of age, shape, and life stage—the designer’s most eclectic casting to date—may prove her smartest move of this season. It’s a message of optimism, she allowed. “Pessimism would be boring,” she said. “This collection is about the triumph of life. Amid cataclysm, creating and welcoming new life is the only way.”
|
Tina Isaac-Goizé
|
May 9, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/663d04b9e6a0a1ca4f7b24d8/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-anna-october-pre-fall-2024-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
pre-fall
|
2024
|
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] |
||
Anna October
|
spring-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/anna-october
|
Names can be misleading. Anna October called her spring collection “Pleasure Garden” not as a racy allusion or a sexed-up bid for the male gaze. Rather, it was a collection made for her own pleasure, a condensation of a summer spent with her three best girlfriends in Hydra, Ibiza, Antibes and Kyiv. A “Tender is the Night” adventure, as she called it, and the dresses it inspired. It also reflects where she is in her life right now: a designer with more than 100K followers, a determined businesswoman who has made a go of it in Paris while also keeping her studio up and running in Kyiv, and someone who, on top of that, decided she needed a hobby. So she recently picked up photography and shot this lookbook. “I always wanted to be able to open up my vision of how I see textiles, colors and the woman,” she said.A showroom visit revealed one of October’s largest collections to date, created around the idea that “you don’t have to reveal all.” True to form, it was long on dresses, with bustiers pared back to just the essential and satiny shades of scarlet, salmon-colored hammered fabric, buttery yellow, white and black. A salmon-colored number, for example, had a new back-baring cut that still seemed to retain a sense of mystery. The same fabric returned in a tailored skirt suit that can be worn with or without its bra strap-style belt.Elsewhere, a draped ensemble in butter yellow was not a dress, but rather a top that just covers the shoulder, with a matching skirt lined on the inside “to keep things safe.” A draped black dress likewise had plenty of drama without giving too much away, and a black miniskirt nodded to spring’s obsession with flowers via 3D blossoms. October’s experiments with crochet found her mixing weaves on a soft cotton bodysuit, designed to slip under a satin evening trench. The pieces looked stronger than in the past, but the designer remains a romantic at heart. “In my mind, my clothes are about city dressing but also being sensitive, tender, and always ready to fall in love,” she said.October’s base is right with her on that. So, as it happens, is J. Crew, which is readying a capsule collection under the designer’s name, just in time for the holidays.
|
Tina Isaac-Goizé
|
October 3, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/651bf1d0995d567320724dac/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-anna-october-spring-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Anna October
|
resort-2024
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2024/anna-october
|
“We are famous for our dresses,” the Ukrainian designer Anna October said by way of introduction. “And then a few collections ago I started to experiment with tailoring. For resort I wanted to put the two together.” This season’s suit was double breasted and slouchy, in a satin-esque fabric that is actually made from regenerated plastic bottle fabric that gives it a subtle sheen. There was also a terrific lightweight maxi coat/dress in tan with hook-and-eye details down the sleeves. Lingerie details have been one of her trademarks, and she enjoys finding new ways to incorporate them in unexpected places. The hook-and-eye-closure details also highlighted two very chic tailored black dresses; one on the empire waist of a strapless dress with a sweetheart neckline, and another the natural waistline of a simple sleeveless sheath. It was believable when she said her version of a sexy dress is “for the pleasure of the woman wearing it.”October knows a thing or two about a sexy dress, and there was one for every occasion. A slinky navy dress with an asymmetrical neckline and sleeve exposed just a hint of shoulder; a sheer black ruffled halter dress with a bandeau and cutouts at the ribs was just the right amount of sexy; a long, spaghetti strap hand-knitted dress with crochet flower embellishments—both techniques that reference traditional Ukrainian crafts—could be perfect for an arty bride. (Actually there were several options here for any and every type of bride, a short tailored jacket-dress with exposed shoulders and floral embellishments, a few slinky satin slip dresses, and even a short ruffled number to change into at the reception and dance the night away.)The women that love October come for their slinky, sensual dress needs, but the best pieces in the collection explored more voluminous silhouettes. A sky-blue A-line gown with a gathered hem and bare-minimum silk straps that tied at the shoulder captured a certain timelessness—sure there was a hint of the ’90s in its straight-cut neckline, but there was also something slightly more retro about it. This was perhaps most evident in a second look made from a skirt in the same blue fabric, this time in a slight trumpet shape, gathered at the hips and draped to swirl across the body. It was worn with a lingerie-inspired beige tank top with bra-strap details criss-crossing across the front and over the shoulder, creating a negative-space cap sleeve, and highlighting the gentle curves of the woman’s chest. “I always start designing every dress from the décolleté, because it’s the frame for the face of the woman, and when she arrives it’s the first thing you see,” said October.She continues to push her brand forward despite the ongoing war; she photographed the lookbook outside this season in locations that were personally meaningful to her, but without ignoring her country’s reality—the graphic blanket that appears behind the model in one shot is not a blanket but sandbags used to cover the windows of a kindergarten to turn it into a bomb shelter. “It’s important for us to photograph what’s really happening,” she said.
|
Laia Garcia-Furtado
|
July 6, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/649c0979c943a2672e3e8846/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-anna-october-resort-2024-credit-alex-mader.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2024
|
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] |
||
Anna October
|
fall-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/anna-october
|
Anna October was leafing through her rails of subtly detailed lingerie-like dresses, and happily introducing her new tailoring in a showroom in Paris. “This collection is very evening-ish, with a purpose,” she said. “I think this is the spirit: We fight, we live today, we fight again.”Every stitch of October’s work is a part of the unbreakable resistance of Ukrainian youth against Vladimir Putin and his war on their country. While listening to her speaking about how, where, and why her fall collection was made, the more that dawned.The last time October was able to be in Ukraine was on New Year’s Eve. “I was at a rave in Kyiv. Clubs are working during the day,” she related. “It was a beautiful crowd of young people dancing and celebrating life—even while outside it’s air raid alerts and people fighting. At midnight, everyone started to sing the national anthem, and it was so strong. I felt so lucky to be there, lucky to feel it.” Entrepreneurial kids in the city have been setting up clubs and places to eat despite everything, she added. “To donate to the war effort.”Since the Russian invasion a year ago, October has been living between Paris and Ukraine. She travels by train to be with her team in Kyiv who continue to work their incredibly finessed sewing skills under daily Russian bombardment. Every bra-topped dress, minutely-detailed for exuberant enjoyment, has been made that way.Another thing October determined to do while she was in Kyiv was to forge a relationship with the top tailoring company in the capital. “It’s this amazing three-story atelier that makes suits for Zelensky. And all of the strong men in Ukraine.”Volodymr Zelensky hasn’t had much use for suits recently—the world recognizes how he represents Ukraine’s war-footing situation with his combat-casual fatigues at every appearance. By contrast, everything
October does might seem female-centrally frivolous. Not so. With every resilient fiber—be it her tailored Kyiv-made suits and coats implanted with sexy hook-and-eye corsetry or her live-for-the-moment party dresses—she’s standing up for Ukraine every bit as strongly as her compatriots. “We will win this war” she said. “We don’t know when it will finish. But that we will win, we have no doubts.”
|
Sarah Mower
|
March 16, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6401d11784a4191acabb7189/master/w_1280,c_limit/00003-anna-october-fall-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Anna October
|
pre-fall-2023
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2023/anna-october
|
Anna October’s life and outlook—personally and professionally—are an object lesson in resilience. To wit, the pre-fall collection was produced in Kyiv, amid missiles and electricity shortages and occasionally sheltering in the metro system. And yet, while October was there, she made a point of taking ballet class and attending a rave in the daytime—since curfew makes nighttime impracticable—that felt “beautiful, sexy, with this will to live to the fullest” (at the end of that event, the crowd broke out in the Ukrainian anthem). On her birthday, New Year’s Eve, she dressed up and ventured out in high heels and a fancy boa.Which is also why this outing has no particular inspiration: “Its all just life happening and celebrating special moments,” the designer said during a showroom visit. If rifling through her own collection for a gown put her in mind of black tie, it also prompted her to incorporate colors—the blue-gray color of the Paris sky, the peachy hue of a Bellini savored at the Opera Garnier—gleaned from her new life in the City of Light (“for me, it’s Bellini or bust,” she offered). Once this collection was ready, the studio threw it into suitcases; one 24-hour train ride later, the designer discovered the full array back in Paris.The bridge between October’s past and present is apparent in crochet and knit numbers—crochet being more cosmopolitan than one might think, having arrived in Ukraine from France via Poland. Those pieces speak to her life story and process: A bunch of artisanally crocheted table linens, potholders, and the like picked up on a trip to Greece last summer became a dress in the spring collection because “sitting there and putting the pieces together” is what makes her happiest. For pre-fall, she continued that thought with a notable crochet top that is “what I dreamed of when I dreamed of being a designer.” Also new this season is knitwear made using traditional Ukrainian techniques, for example a blue bralette or a white bodysuit reproduced from pieces spotted in the archives at the Ivan Honchar National Museum Center of Folk Culture, days before those collections were packed up and transferred to a safe haven.Lingerie is October’s signature, and this season it crops up in ways both obvious and oblique. In the first instance were roses, laser-cut and hand-stitched on Japanese organza camisoles. In a similar vein came bodices with topstitched half-moon busts. One dress, in body-con black with dramatic cutouts, was strictly for the body-proud. Sometimes, things got slightly complicated, as on a peach knit dress with a thong-like belt that lets the skirt hang nonchalantly on the hips. The subtle came in suiting, which is new this season, produced in partnership with the bespoke tailor to Zelensky and his ministers (“the more Helmut Newton, the better,” October said). That effort resulted in a women’s blazer with hook-and-eye fastenings running up the sleeves, for example. Unfastened, the piece becomes more cape-like. Elsewhere, a white “balloon” bustier dress in Japanese fabric made from recycled bottles is engineered with an inner corset, “to make it serious.” A dress with a black taffeta skirt and white topstitched bodice was a winner.Asked to elaborate on the challenges of her craft, October replied, “Everyone has their issues. Our work is to make beauty happen.” That, plus a zealous devotion to delivering on time, come hell or high water—be it via online operations in Estonia or by train or whatever—makes her a force of nature.
|
Tina Isaac-Goizé
|
February 8, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/63da3d069405f243cf974009/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-anna-october-pre-fall-2023-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
pre-fall
|
2023
|
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] |
||
Anna October
|
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/anna-october
|
Like many Ukrainian designers, Anna October went through a time of incredible hardship, which she bravely overcame by finding solace in creativity to turn fantasies and dreams into reality—like making her debut spring collection happen or having a garden built from scratch as if by magic.Some time ago, she bought a piece of land in the forest in Ukraine, which she managed to transform into “a pleasure garden,” she said at a preview. “Planning the garden layout and working at the collection was so exciting and beautiful.” A friend sent her a pertinent quote from Vita Sackville-West’s bookThe Garden,which reads: “Small pleasures must correct great tragedies, therefore of gardens in the midst of war I bold tell.”For her first-ever presentation in Paris, October set up a romantic reverie in an art space, which she filled with buckets of flowers, delicate glass vases, and a tent made from a patchwork of white textiles and crocheted pieces; crochet was a recurring theme in the collection. They were intended to honor traditional Ukraine craft. She explained that museums there are still closed, so she asked the curator of the Ivan Honchar Museum in Kiev if she could visit its archives, where she found beautiful crocheted doilies from a domestic household in the ’50s. She reproduced and transformed them into a handcrafted, sinuously long slip dress, as well as a tiny brassiere, paired with fluid high-waist trousers with delicate lingerie details.October’s creations are about sensuality, grace, and the beauty of the female body: “I’m not concerned about the styling or the merchandising, as I believe that the body should shape the dress,” she said. “I hope my work is a way to bring harmony and beauty into a woman’s life. A new dress has to be striking; that’s why we don’t do hoodies or sweatshirts but special pieces for moments of happiness and excitement.”It would be easy to feel special in one of her sensuous bias-cut satiny dresses revealing a thin-strapped, crisscross open back, or one patchworked in smooth upcycled silk in delicate shades of shell pink and cream. Drawing attention to the décolletage, a primrose yellow bustier was shaped as a corolla of tulip petals, while a lingerie-inspired top was hand-stitched in a plait pattern, hinting at a Ukrainian symbol of femininity.In Anna October’s vision, life is a place where senses have to be celebrated. It’s a brave, optimistic attitude, which most likely comes when you’ve experienced being so close to losing everything that the miraculous beauty of life and love just jumps at you. “I like my label to be perceived as a date-ready brand,” said October with a smile. “If you want to go for a date, if you want to fall in love, if you are in love—I want you to live that moment in one of my dresses. They’re occasion dresses—but the occasion is just to live a beautiful life and fully enjoy the way you feel and look.”
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
October 2, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/633438354441545acfb1a8cf/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-anna-october-spring-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Anna October
|
resort-2023
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2023/anna-october
|
Holding up a pale pink and ivory satin slip dress from Anna October’s collection, it sinks in that the person who’d devoted so much skill and attention to perfecting its bias-cut patchwork was sewing it in Kyiv, while air raid warnings were going off. October
fled Ukraine and managed to make her way to Paris with a backpack in the early part of the Russian invasion. How she’s continued to produce another collection between Paris and her studio in Kyiv says everything about her own and her young compatriots’ optimistic powers of organization and resilience.“It’s been like a movie. A real movie,” she said, shaking her blonde hair and smiling calmly. Friends who had worked for October before the war making her pretty, romantic clothes were determined to continue. People who’d sheltered in the city, the countryside, and some who’d gone to neighboring countries began to reassemble when the capital seemed safer. “We had fittings on Zoom, while there were air raid alerts. I could hear it. I was like girls, do want to go to the bomb shelter? Shall we stop? And they were like no, we’re fine. Continue the fitting. It was surreal.”This season October wanted a collection with a sexier direction than the artily flounced style she’s evolved since setting up her business in 2012. “To be honest, usually it’s been about some stories that happened to me in the past. But now,” she paused, with an intake of breath, “it’s more about the story that I wish to be happening.” In other words, it’s a wardrobe that imagines a near future of
dating, dancing and fun. “I didn’t think rural at all. This is definitely a city girl,” she observed. “But I don’t think of a woman who dresses for others’ eyes. I think that a woman has to appreciate the body she's living in, because it gives her the ability to feel. Because without feeling, without feeling your senses, how do you feel you’re alive?”In close-up, the lingerie-making skills of October’s machinists are impressive. “I knew they could do this,” said October matter-of-factly. These things look as good inside as out.” The finesse of the details—like tiny bra straps inserted at hip-level as a belt suspending a long, liquid silver charmeuse skirt, or hooks and eyes that can be undone to show slices of skin between a bustier and a skirt—has something of the 1990s about it. Not too polished and dressed-up, an air of easy-to-wear cool.
|
Sarah Mower
|
June 28, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/62b1f74765df4e3212be0cfd/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-anna-october-resort-2023-credit-nick-wagner.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2023
|
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] |
||
Anna October
|
kiev-spring-2018
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/kiev-spring-2018/anna-october
|
Kiev Fashion DaysAnna October has been enjoying a steady stream of success the past few years. In addition to being an LVMH Prize finalist in 2015, she's stocked internationally at Harvey Nichols in Hong Kong, and online at Moda Operandi, Shopbop, and MatchesFashion. Her frilly, often off-the-shoulder dresses have a commercial appeal that separates her from other Ukrainian designers, though they had become somewhat predictable.Lately October has been pushing outside her comfort zone, with her Fall 2017 collection a turning point. For the past few months, she's been rediscovering her roots as an art history major and injecting art into her designs. The day before she showed the collection, she collaborated with an old college friend who created an abstract structure, which October used in her lookbook. It served as a cool backdrop to the soft cotton and silk color-blocked dresses with puffed sleeves that dominated the collection. A standout here was the strapless striped dress with a Mohawk ruffle running down the arm. It's essentially an October-style dress, but a whole lot bolder.
|
Liana Satenstein
|
September 7, 2017
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/59b14ed006a8522361890f78/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-anna-october-spring-18.jpg"
] |
kiev
|
spring
|
2018
|
[
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]
] |
|
Anna October
|
kiev-fall-2017
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/kiev-fall-2017/anna-october
|
Anna Octoberhas made a name for herself with her romantic signatures. She loves a good ruffle and a nice peasant dress and her clothes sell well. Her style hasn’t varied much over the past few seasons, but she was more experimental this time around, setting her show in a Soviet shopping mall and using an ’80s-era Kim Basinger as inspiration. Bold-shouldered silhouettes featured a catchy black and white squiggle print, while off-the-shoulder looks came in a plaid pattern.Although nice, these dresses weren’t the standouts. Knitwear was where October made a statement: Multicolored turtlenecks decorated with tiers of varying ruffles on the chest will be popular. There was also some great denim: Straight-leg jeans slouched off the hipbone or had a ruched waistband. Let’s see if these pieces, like a few dresses from her previous collections, make it into the windows of Browns Fashion in London.
|
Liana Satenstein
|
February 6, 2017
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5897408a3fc55ad523849676/master/w_1280,c_limit/KCH_4542.jpg"
] |
kiev
|
fall
|
2017
|
[
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] |
|
Anna Sui
|
spring-2025-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/anna-sui
|
Anna Sui has five fragrances launching in the fall, so she’ll do a presentation of her new collection then. Her show at the Strand last season was a highlight of New York, but if it was disappointing not to see these clothes in motion on the runway, a visit to her Garment District office and showroom made up for it.Sui’s mood board is always teeming with references. This time around it was Andy Warhol’s early commercial art she was drawn to. “I wanted to do something really soft, and I’ve always loved his pre-Pop drawings,” she said. They informed the pastel color palette as well as the prints. Sui enlisted the artist Paul LeRoy Gehres, whose personal work often channels Warhol’s, to create a cherub logo motif. You may see it on the shrunken ’90s tees that Sui’s young fans are now collecting. She also pointed out a new printing technique that evoked the blotted outlines of Warhol’s illustrations on a pretty lace slip dress.Travel, resorts, and country clubs were on Sui’s mind. If you’ve ever come across photos of your mother or grandmother on vacation at the beach in the ’60s, you’ll get her drift. In the mix were terry lounge sets, A-line micro-shifts in fluorescent jacquards and floral piqués, souvenir print silk-cotton voile pajamas, cardigans that “look like something Dean Martin would’ve worn,” and bejeweled cat-eye sunglasses. The ruffled pastel tulle prom dresses were a sweet alternative to the too-old-for-them styles many high schoolers are wearing now.Sui mentioned that her actor-niece Chase Sui Wonders had been by the studio to see the collection. “‘Auntie Anna,’” she said, “‘it’s like the opposite of brat, it’s so earnest, it’s demure.’ She kind of got it,” said Sui. She really did. And for the record, Wonders said that “before the whole demure quote came out.”
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 7, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/66db5eae6095139ef65543c0/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-anna-sui-spring-2025-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2025
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Anna Sui
|
resort-2025
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2025/anna-sui
|
A springtime trip to see a Pre-Raphaelites exhibition at the Museo San Domenico in Forli, Italy, inspired Anna Sui’s new collection. Back here in New York, Rossetti’sProsperineandThe Beguiling of MerlinandLove Among the Ruinsby Edward Burne-Jones appeared on her mood board wall, among many other paintings of the period. “He could’ve been a dress designer,” she said of Burne-Jones, “the way he painted clothing.” But she was also drawn to his romanticism. “Imagination, folklore, fairy tales—I think it’s what we’re needing,” she said. Also: “I think we’re on the verge of a big change in fashion, moving past this whole minimal period.”That’s good news to Sui, who has never been much of a minimalist herself. But you shouldn’t expect the loose bodices and flowing sleeves of the frocks depicted in the Rossetti and co.’s paintings. Instead, she lifted from their indigo palette, and created prints, embroideries, and jacquards evocative of their contemporary, the textile designer William Morris, as well as the artist Aubrey Beardsley, who came along a little bit later. The collection includes granny dresses and 1940s dresses and a matching softly structured jacket and midi-skirt, all of which have the vintage flavor distinctive of Sui’s work. An ivory lace minidress with a violet bow, meanwhile, channels early 1990s Courtney Love. Thanks to Instagram and TikTok, Sui has young fans for whom riot-grrl grunge seems as ancient-history as the Pre-Raphaelites. For them there are tweedy minis, shrunken logo tees, and grandpa cardigans.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
June 7, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6662a753b4c19d2ba3be9b2a/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-anna-sui-resort-2025-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2025
|
[
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||
Anna Sui
|
fall-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-ready-to-wear/anna-sui
|
Debbie Harry, the New York Dolls’s David Johansen, Marc Jacobs, and Sofia Coppola and her husband Thomas Mars, the lead singer of Phoenix, were all in attendance at the Strand’s Rare Book Room tonight for Anna Sui’s fall 2024 show. Gen Z can have their influencers; Sui has people of influence.Agatha Christie’s Miss Marple was a reference for Sui’s fall collection, as were the first editions of Virginia Woolf. She filtered these through her own fashion origin story, adding ’90s grunge stylings and a soundtrack stacked with hits by Sonic Youth, the Breeders, Smashing Pumpkins, and Elastica. It’s always a history lesson at Sui’s shows, but this season her mash-ups were particularly multi-layered, the orange tweed of a kilt conjuring the 1960s and the fleece of the Fair Isle patterns evoking the gorpcore-y here-and-now.Sui is a vintage hunter par excellence; if she’s erasing and eliding timestamps, that doesn’t mean she’s not fully aware of the roots of each and every one of her prints and silhouettes. She also happens to be a keen student of street style, and her recent observations—of young men wearing babushkas, and of young everyone wearing vintage—influenced the styling of this collection. That started with the souvenir scarves that accessorized many of the looks, and included the hand-dyed retro slips by Eveliina, a vintage lingerie dealer she’s met on the circuit, that she mixed with her own designs.When Sui had her store on Greene Street, she kept a rail of vintage pieces in stock. She’s recently added a selection of Eveliina’s lingerie one-of-a-kinds to her e-commerce site, alongside archival pieces from her own past collections. Her trick is the way she makes even the most direct of references feel wantably au courant. This season the looks at the top of the list are a panné velvet Bloomsbury-blue flower print jacket and skirt worn with a Lurex rugby stripe tee, and a transparent paillette embroidered net tank paired with silver sequin pants that mesh the 1920s and the 2020s. The crowd seemed slow to disperse after the show, as if everyone was reluctant to step off Sui’s time machine.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 11, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/65c812c8ca2e6a18a62c72c3/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-anna-sui-fall-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Anna Sui
|
spring-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/anna-sui
|
Anna Sui found herself drawn to undersea creatures and watery environments. “I think it was all the coverage of the reef bleaching,” she said backstage. “I’m not an activist or anything like that, but I’ve just never seen anything more beautiful than the Great Barrier. So I think it’s important to make a statement now.” Given the state of things, New York Fashion Week has been strangely short on statements climatological, social, or otherwise, so credit to Sui for reminding us that we just lived through the hottest summer ever recorded. Hurricane Lee, which is now threatening the Eastern seaboard, became one of just 40 Category 5 storms since 1924 to swirl through the Atlantic.As Sui admitted, she’s not in the habit of delivering message collections, and had she not spoken about this summer’s ocean heat backstage before the show, it wouldn’t have been obvious that it was on her mind. This collection, like all of Sui’s work, was informed by deep research. She watched and fell in love withMy Octopus Teacher, pinned illustrations of mermaids to her studio wall, and reimagined vintage pieces with sea themes, then let those references inform her fabric development. Textiles rippled with color, shimmered with the iridescence of mother-of-pearl, and dripped with water-droplet paillettes. There was a lot of variation, but when the models lined up on the stage at the end of the show, they formed a complementary ecosystem, just like our precious and imperiled reefs.If that’s pushing the metaphor, Sui isn’t afraid of wearing her intentions on her sleeve. She showed adorable chunky pastel cardigans knitted with fishes, and backstage pointed to a T-shirt featuring a mermaid chatting with a school of fish. Her program notes, for anybody so moved, included a link tomissionblue.org, which works to raise public awareness and support for a worldwide network of marine-protected areas.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 10, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/64fdccd9d41b74f80cc6400a/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-anna%20sui-spring%202024-ready%20to%20wear-credit-raoul%20gatchalian.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Anna Sui
|
resort-2024
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2024/anna-sui
|
Every visit to Anna Sui’s studio is a fashion lesson. This season, she was offering instruction in the kebaya, a traditional garment, part-shirt/part-jacket and often embroidered, worn by women in Southeast Asia that, you could argue, hasn’t been co-opted by western designers as regularly as the cheongsam or kimono. A pair of vintage kebayas in delicate and beautiful cotton voile were one of Sui’s references this season. A wall of her office was pinned with other inspirations: a Peranakan bowl in electric pastels (like “Chinese porcelain on acid,” she said), Impressionist paintings, and Danielle Bhavya Winter’s dreamy digital images of butterflies.Together, all of this translated into a resort collection that skewed youthful and whimsical in trademark Sui fashion. After connecting with Winter, Sui printed her butterflies on a thigh-scraping metal mesh dress. Other party dresses were equally abbreviated and came trimmed with feather hems. A silver foil sleeveless jacket and mini were inspired by a gold version that Linda Evangelista wore on the designer’s runway in her supermodel heyday.Lately Sui has been tapping into Gen Z’s anemoia for the 1990s and early ’00s. Here, she slipped baby tees under slip dresses and cut cargo pants to slouch off the hips in ways that will be recognizable to people old enough to actually remember those years.A burnout velvet smock dress in a floral evocative of Monet’s Giverny is shown in the lookbook with a vest whose patchwork effect was achieved, Sui marveled, by computer. That’s one thing that’s different between fashion now and fashion then. Sui’s gift as a fashion savant is imbuing her vintage obsessions with a universal appeal. Years from now when someone stumbles across her silk jacquard nightgown embellished with “aged” lace, they’re likely to be just as jazzed as she was this week about those antique kebayas.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
June 7, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/647f671fc943a2672e3e7bcf/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-anna-sui-resort-2024-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2024
|
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||
Anna Sui
|
fall-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/anna-sui
|
The location was Heaven Can Wait, a club in the East Village, but the vibe Anna Sui was channeling tonight was the Peppermint Lounge. She stumbled across an old snapshot of her friend Jane Holzer dancing there in Chanel couture in the 1960s recently and was riveted. The Peppermint Lounge was an Italian restaurant on West 45th Street that was briefly the hottest club in the world. The Ronettes and the Beach Boys played there and the Beatles stopped by on their first trip to the US. Wikipedia says that Jackie Kennedy was such a fan that she arranged for a pop-up Peppermint Lounge to be set up in the White House.Backstage Sui explained the long lost club’s hold on her. “I feel like this generation is missing out on that intimacy of having a place to go and dance. Where you don’t have your phones, and you’re just checking each other out and getting dressed up for each other,” she said. “I love the whole idea. It’s human.”The best part of an Anna Sui show is often the history lesson that comes with it. This season, it wasn’t just the Peppermint Lounge she was hyping up, but her own past, as well. Sui has Millennial and Gen Z nieces and nephews; she knows that cohort is into the ’90s and 2000s. So sprinkled amongst the ’60s-inspired a-line shifts were crochet caps lifted from her 1993 grunge collection and bunny ear hats from another show circa 1998—“since it’s the year of the bunny, I thought, okay, let’s bring them back.” She added the rubber soled cowboy boots to the mix because she once had a pair of gold Fiorucci cowboy boots, but she lent them to Linda Ramone, and never got them back.As New York Fashion Week has gotten started, designers keep talking about the personal. Sui figures it’s because of all the pandemic-time reflection. “I’m also at a stage in my career,” she added, “where I’m asking myself, what else do I need to express? So much of the time I didn’t think about myself and thought about fantasy. And this time it just kind of all came out.” Another throwback at Sui’s show: the way the models shimmied through the crowd, making eye contact with Marc Jacobs, Sofia Coppola, and Holzer, who still wears her hair in the tease she did in that old black-and-white photo. These days, the kids don’t dance and models don’t smile. Why? At Sui’s show, both happened and we all left happier.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 12, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/63e8d993cd014844018e2548/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-anna-sui-fall-2023-ready-to-wear-details-credit-richie-lee-harris.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Anna Sui
|
resort-2023
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2023/anna-sui
|
A trio of velveteen princesses close Anna Sui’s resort 2023 lookbook. One dress you’ll know—emerald-teal with antique ribbon trim and tufts of faux fur—because it originally appeared in Sui’s fall 1998 collection and became something of an internet sensation earlier this year. The others are extensions of the theme, jewel-toned precious frocks for a modern royal.Sui is a master of remastering the past—you could say her entire brand is built on that concept. But what she’s been doing lately is reimagining her own past for a new generation of customers who missed her noughties heyday. Ssense has already reissued a capsule of some pieces that, in addition to being spotted on cool girls in Lower Manhattan and Silverlake, are being worn by the likes of Dua Lipa and Olivia Rodrigo.This season the pop stars and their fans will surely covet a lilac marabou-trimmed jacket, the fabric first used in Sui’s spring 1997 collection, or new interpretations of grunge style like a lace-inset black slip dress, black crochet pants, and illustrated baby tees. Heart printed tea dresses and separates continue the sweet streak; even at her punkiest Sui never gives up on girlishness. But pick apart the layered looks, and you’ll find sexy peignoirs and velvet swimsuits that evoke screen sirens’ boudoir attire. “You just need a velvet bathing suit, don’t you?” Sui says with a laugh at her lookbook shoot as models with lilac eyeliner—the only color Sui’s mother would let her wear as a teen—recreated “cheesy” ‘60s model group poses. That’s the Sui trick: it’s always about making the dream real, funciontalizing the fantasy. This season the reality is special, sensual, and sporty. Modern girls are in luck.
|
Steff Yotka
|
June 10, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/62a3072cc3d6b41ec1e0a5b8/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-anna-sui-resort-2023-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2023
|
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||
Anna Sui
|
fall-1998-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-1998-ready-to-wear/anna-sui
|
Once upon a time, not so long ago—earlier this week, in fact—the internet got excited about a blue velvet princess dress with fur trim. The “drama” started when Casey Jacksonpostedthat the dress was for sale on Poshmark. The woman who designed it, Anna Sui, wrote to Jackson asking if she could acquire it. Meanwhile, its purchaser,Ashley Narcisse, posted pictures of herself in the dress, which were thenrepostedwith the question, “I mean would y’all sell it back to Anna Sui?” Memes followed, as did comments for and against either “side.” As this isn’t fiction, there really aren’t any “bad guys” in this story despite the stir it caused on Instagram. What the incident really speaks to is ’90s nostalgia, and how vintage clothes are valued both for individual expression and as historic, passdownable objects.Now, freshly added to the Vogue Runway archive, is the complete fall 1998 collection that the dress in question belongs to. And here is its origin story, as told by Sui herself.“[I remember when I was in school], for English class we were told to read a book and do a report about it. And so I readThe Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobeand wrote my book report on it. The teacher gave me an A- and wrote, ‘You are too old to be reading fairy tales.’[For fall 1998 I wanted] to do a collection inspired by fairy tales, but also inspired by all the great illustrators of the 1900s. I had seen an exhibition in London about the Victorian fairy tale illustrators [that included] Arthur Rackham and Kay Nielsen; it was the most incredible and really moving exhibition that I had seen in a long time, and I just kept looking at those pictures, so then I thought, OK, I’ll do a collection like that.Illustration by Kay Nielsen fromEast of the Sun and West of the Moon.| Photo: Alamy
|
Anna Sui as told to Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
April 8, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6250383732686bb3c52f23c8/master/w_1280,c_limit/0001-anna-sui-fall-1998-ready-to-wear-CN10057302-amber-valletta.jpg"
] |
fall
|
1998
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Anna Sui
|
fall-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/anna-sui
|
Anna Sui’s mind has traditionally been a lightning rod for what young people want to wear. She was right there with grunge in 1993 and cycled through scenes and vibes well into the 2010s. In the 2020s, Sui continues to look to the not-so-distant past for inspiration, but she is hitting a new stride in how she translates the obsessions of ’60s rockers, ’20s flappers, and ’90s It Girls for Gen Z and Millennial fashion obsessives. Her fall 2022 collection is her strongest marriage of retro ideas with newly popular silhouettes yet, a decadent and delightful romp through Brit Pop, Art Deco, and New Wave, all topped off with cute animal bags inspired by a ’90s original James Coviello designed for her way back when.The twee and captivating British television concert showReady Steady Go!was Sui’s starting point. With the tagline “The weekend starts here” the show was, per Sui, what young Britons would watch Friday night to get outfit inspiration for the weekend. “Everyone wanted to see what Cathy McGowan [the show’s host who rocked a pert Vidal Sassoon haircut and even more pert Mary Quant dresses] was wearing, and then they would try to make it themselves,” Sui explained at a preview in her jewel box Manhattan office. The “innocence and optimism” of that period was the true lightning Sui wanted to capture; that feeling of crushing into a theater, standing room only, and dancing with friends while the coolest new band played. She knows it well—that’s how she started off her love of fashion in Detroit.Frisky little purple tweed suits, lilac fluff-trimmed cropped cardigans, and delectable kitten heels by John Fluevog are cousins of McGowan’s ’60s originals, mashed up together to evoke the kaleidoscopic way young people style themselves today. Granny square knit suits are worn with faux fur boots by Pajar, leather coats are paired with leather ties and floral mesh, ’70s striped dresses are styled with creepers and low-slung nameplate belts like the ones you used to buy on Saint Mark’s Place in the early ’90s. There are his and hers green plaid blazers and shearlings, and one totally sequined zebra stripe halter and flare trouser set. The collection leaps from era to era, place to place, and idea to idea with a little wink. It’s a mode of designing and styling that suits Sui well—she has one of fashion’s richest encyclopedias in her mind, and rather than tether herself to a single theme, she’s doing it all. She does it well.
|
Steff Yotka
|
February 15, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/620a8b306c4aa47174830472/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Anna-Sui-FW22-credit-Richie-Lee-Davis%20.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2022
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Anna Sui
|
spring-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-ready-to-wear/anna-sui
|
When Ugbad Abdi stepped onto Anna Sui’s spring 2022 runway, a seatmate cheered, “Yes, bitch, these clothes are the moment!” Abdi was wearing a tropical floral mesh dress, crochet knit vest, and ankle socks with a little coordinating crochet bag. Hannah Motler’s surfer girl mesh top and strapless dress elicited an, “okay, this is what I’m talking about!” And Rebecca Longendyke’s nylon floral romper inspired a “look at that! I want it!” Personally, I’d rather like Mika Schneider’s pink meshy tee and cardigan or maybe Adut Akech’s lamé camp shirt. The message here is that Anna Sui’s sweet, quirky clothes are striking a chord with millennial and Gen Z customers who are interested in an X-Girl-meets-fashion girl look.Inspired by her travels and favorite tiki haunt, Sui’s tropical paradise show was positively filled with cute wantable things. She is always expanding her product offering, and this season, she hit almost every note, from rainbow tweed mini suits to floral board shorts to girlish prom dresses. There were even white lacy caftans that, in a cheeky wink, appeared on the runway asThe White Lotus’stitle track began to play. Shoppers will eat these pieces up as they return to stores, but if they need any inspo, Sui’s niece and actress Chase Sui Wonders was there to provide it, wearing her aunt’s clothing often with an edgy ease.The location helped lift the vibe, too. Nestled into booths at Indochine, where Sui had designed a purple St-Germain cocktail complete with palm tree straws to set the vacation mood, the audience didn’t have to work to imagine these clothes at work and play. Wouldn’t you like to be at Anna’s tiki bar, wearing a daisy chain bag and Erickson Beamon beaded brooch, kicking some neon pink John Fluevog platforms up to the sky? In the past, Sui’s shows could feel a little overdone with reference and reverence. This was the designer at her freest and most joyous, and it’s certainly about to influence a new generation of Sui girls. Another seat mate was, in fact, wearing a tank that read “I Love Anna.”
|
Steff Yotka
|
September 12, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/613e0467cf832259eb548998/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Anns%20Sui-Spring-22-RTW-New-York-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2022
|
ready-to-wear
|
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|
Annakiki
|
spring-2025-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/annakiki
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/66ed9bc04cc95461b35f3b26/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-annakiki-spring-2025-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2025
|
ready-to-wear
|
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||
Annakiki
|
fall-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-ready-to-wear/annakiki
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/65da05e194085990b1bc9f19/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-annakiki-fall-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
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||
Annakiki
|
fall-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/annakiki
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6036150e8a918ef1d38afef4/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Annakiki-RTW-fall-21.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2021
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
||
Annakiki
|
spring-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2021-ready-to-wear/annakiki
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5f6e8327c625468d713d4648/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Annakiki-RTW-SS21.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2021
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
||
Anne Klein
|
spring-2008-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2008-ready-to-wear/anne-klein
|
"My inspiration?" mused Isabel Toledo after her sophomore outing at Anne Klein. "A collaboration with a husband. A creative bouquet." Indeed, the collection had many stories woven into it, including an "Art Attack" print inspired, Toledo said, by an incident in which her artist husband Ruben accidentally smeared a dress with paint. It also veered between classic Americana in the Anne Klein tradition—exemplified by a striped bathrobe dress, a knit tennis number, and the slightly fifties nipped-waist silhouette—and the more artful dressmaker look that characterizes Toledo's own line. Clearly, the balance between the two is still being worked out.In the meantime, slick-as-oil lacquered-cotton pieces mingled with silver plissé separates, and transparent-pastel glazed raincoats topped hand-painted haute hippie broomstick dresses. The draped jersey dresses were standouts. If overall the collection was somewhat scattered, Toledo's pleasure in creation and materials was evident throughout.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
September 11, 2007
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6518108298d8be222db77/master/w_1280,c_limit/00010m.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2008
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Anne Klein
|
fall-2007-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2007-ready-to-wear/anne-klein
|
Anne Klein was a pioneer of American sportswear who, in the seventies, pushed the idea (it's hard to believe it was ever rebellious) of mix-and-match separates for a workforce of women heading to the office in Charlie, and to Elaine's in a blazer and slacks.This season marked the debut of the much-admired Isabel Toledo as the designer of the brand with the lion's-head logo, and there was a palpable feeling of goodwill in the room. If the collection didn't come out roaring, it did purr along apace, with solid pieces like a navy cashmere cardigan with an asymmetrical closure and a camel robe coat.The Klein DNA was most directly obvious in a suede tunic and pant. Toledo's concept for Fall was "couture haberdashery," and it was well captured by several pleated dresses and a red cord coat-dress with a peplum. The sophistication of these looks perhaps spoke more to Toledo's own refined aesthetic than to Klein's more emphatically casual one. "I feel like a scientist in a lab," Toledo joked of her alchemical attempts to create new Anne Klein gold. Her debut can be seen as a useful experiment, with the promise of new invention to come.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
February 8, 2007
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6517808298d8be2223a5f/master/w_1280,c_limit/00040m.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2007
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Anne Klein
|
spring-2004-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2004-ready-to-wear/anne-klein
|
Seismic shifts seem to be a trend this season, and it’s not a hemline movement. Anne Klein, in the process of changing ownership, named a new designer after Charles Nolan announced he was leaving to campaign for Democratic presidential candidate Governor Howard Dean. His replacement, Michael Smaldone, debuted with a spring collection that added a bit of edge to his predecessor’s aesthetic, without veering off wildly in a new direction.Smaldone’s theme was “urban nymph,” and he set the mood by paving his runway with wood chips (not the best surface for high heels, as the models soon discovered). Working with a limited palette—white, yellow, black, and khaki, with a few plum-toned accents—he kept silhouettes simple, with pencil skirts, tailored jackets cropped above the wrist, and full-cut white shirts tucked into slim pants or shorts.The designer attached a high leather waistband to a few pants and skirts, used hook and eyes up the back of a skirt, and lavished silver beading in unexpected places—on a khaki tunic over cropped pants, and on an A-line skirt paired with a yellow striped shirt. While he may have chosen classic lines, clearly he likes a vivid detail.
|
Janet Ozzard
|
September 15, 2003
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6516408298d8be220bdab/master/w_1280,c_limit/100109841.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2004
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Anne Klein
|
fall-2003-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2003-ready-to-wear/anne-klein
|
Anne Klein designer Charles Nolan picked up the early-’60s mood that’s been sweeping through the collections this week, citing references from Jackie Kennedy to Antonioni to the house’s own founding designer.For one thing, that meant hemlines zoomed well above the knee; fully three quarters of the looks Nolan sent out were minis, from swingy kilts to leather A-line looks to sporty, rugby-striped versions. He paired them with slim ribbed turtlenecks, popcorn-bedecked sweaters, crisp shirts and silky geometric-print blouses. There were a few pantsuits with trim, short jackets topping slim, tab-waisted trousers. While minis are generally aimed at the younger set, Nolan’s restrained colors made the collection mature: plummy browns, black, ivory, white, navy and gray, with jolts of orange and blue. And he made sure to give his grown-up customer a bit of luxe, via combinations like a black mink anorak worn over a black leather mini.For evening, Nolan moved his inspiration back even farther, to the flapper era. He showed short, beaded and sequined shifts, one topped with a pretty ivory satin evening coat. How short his customer will really go, of course, remains to be seen. But should she decide to raise high her hemlines, Anne Klein gives her an adult alternative.
|
Janet Ozzard
|
February 10, 2003
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6510c08298d8be21a9628/master/w_1280,c_limit/100092062.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2003
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Anne Klein
|
spring-2003-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2003-ready-to-wear/anne-klein
|
Anne Klein designer Charles Nolan faces a tricky fashion dilemma: how to take a venerable, commercially powerful name and give it a new lease on life, without alienating a faithful clientele.For spring, Nolan rose to the challenge by adding a touch of tough chic to the sportswear classics for which the label is known. Skintight trousers were paired with generous deerskin motorcycle jackets, while pencil skirts and short shorts came with neat cotton blouses or soft jersey tops. He kept the fabrics lightweight—parachute silk, crisp cotton, seersucker, taffeta—and the color palette predominantly white, khaki, toffee, gray and black, with shots of red and pink. The handkerchief-point hem has embedded itself deeply into spring's collections, and Nolan showed his own version, using striped fabrics in bias-cut skirts that just grazed the knee.Sportswear is all about easy comfort, and, as far as Nolan is concerned, that notion extends to evening as well: He sent out tiny jersey dresses paved with coin-size paillettes and rhinestone-studded sweatshirts that were simultaneously soft and sparkly.
|
Janet Ozzard
|
September 18, 2002
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6515c08298d8be2202733/master/w_1280,c_limit/100077234.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2003
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Anne Klein
|
fall-2002-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2002-ready-to-wear/anne-klein
|
Anne Klein, who died in 1974, was a forceful proponent of smart, fashionable, well-made clothes for working women (a philosophy she passed on to her former design assistant Donna Karan). But the past few years have seen several changes in direction for the company she founded, which has lost ground as a result.Now, with new ownership and a new design director, Charles Nolan, the house is hoping to reclaim its rightful place in executive wardrobes. Nolan came to Anne Klein from Ellen Tracy, another bastion of career clothes, so he knows what works in a boardroom and what doesn't. No micro-minis, no sheer tops; instead, he offered a solid series of items like A-line leather skirts, short shearling jackets, crisply creased trousers and tweed three-quarter coats. Styles were fitted, but never supertight, and the color palette stuck close to tones of mocha, cream, white, black and navy.Busy women like to look good, of course, but Nolan knows they also like to save time; to cut down on agonizing decision-making, he showed all his looks, even a slinky white jersey evening dress with black stiletto snakeskin boots.
|
Janet Ozzard
|
February 10, 2002
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650c708298d8be21605d9/master/w_1280,c_limit/100057334.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2002
|
ready-to-wear
|
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|
Anne Sofie Madsen
|
tokyo-spring-2017
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/tokyo-spring-2017/anne-sofie-madsen
|
Anne Sofie Madsen’s usual game is creating fashion from a myriad of fabrics and materials, and hodgepodging them together into a final, complex creation. While this can sometimes look like scraps from the studio floor have been brought to life, Madsen’s Frankenstein creations are becoming more polished as the seasons go on. For Spring, in an inversion of her usual approach, the clothes appeared as though they were falling apart rather than thrown together. It worked. “I’ve been really fascinated with failures and flaws,” Madsen said after the show. This celebration of beauty in the broken echoes the Japanese concept of wabi-sabi: “It is quite Japanese, actually,” she admitted. This is the designer’s second season showing in Tokyo as part of winning the DHL Exported prize, which facilitates her showing at Japan’s Amazon Fashion Week, as well as in Paris.Styled by Madsen herself (a freedom she doesn’t have in Paris), the collection featured suits that were deconstructed and torn so that the trouser legs dissolved into skirts, showing a softness at odds with traditional businesswear. “The suit is meant to disguise vulnerability, by strengthening the shoulder or shaping up the body, but here the pieces are falling apart, having narrow shoulders, bigger hips; it’s doing the opposite thing,” she said. Skirts were sliced into strips, corseting details were peppered onto outerwear, and woven cotton cardboard-beige pieces were held together with packaging tape that was actually foil under vinyl. A few sparkles were added for good measure: a body-chain in the shape of a bra, as well as embellishments that looked as though diamond-drop earrings had been pinned to the fabrics. The most impressive looks were the decadent ruffled pieces, well executed and inspired by the discipline of an uptight church girl going off the rails. “A shirt cannot get drunk, but if it could, this is my interpretation of it,” Madsen explained.The overarching message was one of defiant femininity, exploring the relationship between perceived weakness and strength, and celebrating it. Fittingly, for the final few looks, the lyrics of Khia’s 2002 hit “My Neck, My Back” played over Beethoven’sMoonlight Sonata, to create a feminist anthem that said that the Madsen woman owns her sexuality.
|
Ashley Ogawa Clarke
|
October 25, 2016
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/580e6b57ecec188f7b7dce6f/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-anne-sofie-madsen.jpg"
] |
tokyo
|
spring
|
2017
|
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] |
|
Anne Sofie Madsen
|
fall-2013-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2013-ready-to-wear/anne-sofie-madsen
|
We're posting runway pictures from Copenhagen Fashion Week for the first time. See the full list of designers here. To read our daily reports on the collections, visit our Style File blog. And don't miss our street-style coverage.
| null |
January 30, 2013
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6510908298d8be21a5c88/master/w_1280,c_limit/annesofiemadsen_001_1366.1366x2048.JPG"
] |
fall
|
2013
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Anonlychild
|
spring-2025-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/anonlychild
|
Previous anOnlyChild lookbooks were shot in a home environment, nodding at the low-key vibes that define Maxwell Osborne’s clothes, but this season he opted to let the city invigorate his designs. It was a smart choice.“The idea,” he said, “was really to show city life and capture this girl in New York that isn’t dolled-up and frilly.” The images were taken by the photographer Tyler Joe, a fixture of the street style scene at New York Fashion Week, and they do feel like street style shots, contextualizing the pieces in ways that people might wear them in real life. The runways can push designers to present their work in a manner that doesn’t always befit them—clothes are often too styled, too dramatic, too glamorized. Osborne’s oversized track separates, bulbous bomber jackets, and wide, double-pleat trousers, in particular, looked fantastic in movement and with the streets of New York as their backdrop.New this season were a silky tailored shirtdress and a couple of dresses and skirts with fun bubble hems representing a new more mature outlook on femininity. Sadly not pictured was a very special gown. Backless in striped cotton with a puffy hem that grazed the floor, it’s the kind of outfit that would make even a frantic New Yorker look twice.
|
José Criales-Unzueta
|
October 31, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6718bd48a16fde1adc4f5e2f/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-anonlychild-spring-2025-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2025
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Anonlychild
|
fall-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-ready-to-wear/anonlychild
|
AnOnlyChild’s Maxwell Osborne was scheduled to present his fall 2024 collection on the runway at New York Fashion Week this past February. The show was initially postponed to a later date, but logistical difficulties got in the way. In lieu of a fall show, Osborne is releasing to the public now an edit of his fall collection presented to buyers earlier this year. He hopes to bring his spring collection to the runway in September.While Osborne often crafts an overarching story to unify his collections, what really dictates his concepts are his materials. AnOnlyChild works based on deadstock. “If you look through the collection this season, there’s a lot of heavier fabrics, which is on purpose because it’s what we saw,” said Osborne. “Then it started to focus on this girl who is hiding the person she wants to be.” Hence the oversized clothes, many of which are tailored and cut in menswear fabrics.Osborne titled this collection Pinch Me. This translated most literally and successfully into the way he cut a wide sleeve and flattened the top line with a stitch line from shoulder to cuff, replicating the design language he established in his anOnlyChild trousers (which he is the best advertisement for, given that he wears them often himself).Another of Osborne’s personal style nuances that made it into the collection is the way he’ll often wear his hoodies with one sleeve out and draped around his shoulder. “It’s me being noncommitted,” he laughed. He designed a cool one-sleeve turtleneck that gathers under the sleeve and drapes over the shoulder that he plans on refining so the sleeve is long enough to be wrapped as a scarf. Other highlights here include the knife-sharp shoulder in his tailored overcoat and a gray stretch viscose double T-shirt with double sleeves and hem. AnOnlyChild is a young brand, but each season Osborne shows that he’s a veteran when it comes to making clothes both approachable and cool.
|
José Criales-Unzueta
|
May 16, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/664626421fc62bfd750b0650/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-anonlychild-fall-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-ruvan-wijesooriya-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
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|
Anonlychild
|
spring-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/anonlychild
|
Maxwell Osborne has been building anOnlyChild around the idea of home. If he approached the concept esoterically in the past, for spring the designer started with a simple and familiar question: “How do you chill on a Sunday?”In an ideal world, Sundays are reserved for quiet time. Prepping for the week ahead usually involves a dose of nothingness, a little stillness. But Sundays are also a day for an errand or two, catching up with friends, or maybe taking a walk. The hope is to relax, and it should all start with what we put on our bodies. So, how do you dress to chill on a Sunday?“You wake up, you’re getting ready to go to brunch, maybe stay at home, you’re wearing a version of what you wore on Saturday but it’s not the same, it’s Sunday,” said Osborne at his studio. All paths here led to the idea of ease, and Osborne paved each with sets: Whether tailored, sporty, or loungy, every wardrobe staple the designer explored was presented with a partner. The shirring detailing he introduced out the gate turned up again, as did his double pleats on trousers and generous, bulbous proportions.Featuring more prominently this season was Osborne’s jeans. AnOnlyChild launched a denim capsule this past summer at an outdoor market/party hybrid that included a live lookbook shoot of the new styles. Each piece is hand washed, dyed in Brooklyn, and made of deadstock denim, and their appeal is in their proportions. The former Public School and DKNY designer has always known his way around cutting a good-looking pair of pants.Another anOnlyChild signature that starred here was Osborne’s short-sleeved suits. “I almost stopped doing them because everyone did this season,” he said. It’s a good thing he didn’t. Osborne’s vision for our Sundays is inviting and cozy, but he’s at his best when he’s designing for the work week. His tailoring offers the kind of sharpness you’ll want to start your Monday with.
|
José Criales-Unzueta
|
November 7, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6543a38f936f4c51fc84ac41/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-anonlychild-spring-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Anonlychild
|
fall-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/anonlychild
|
“Who is the woman?” When it comes to fashion, that’s an age-old question. Buyers, stylists, editors, and publicists all seek to distill the essence of a designer’s point of view to a singular person—an existing archetype, a made-up persona, a real-life muse; any will do as long as the reference to which the garments are tied to is tangible and understandable.At anOnlyChild, Maxwell Osborne gave himself the unofficial mission of defining his woman this season. “Last season was about this gathering, a house party where everyone is living under the same roof and wearing everyone’s clothes, so we showed it on different ages and sizes as a big range,” Osborne said. “This collection is more of a darker approach, about a person outside the party looking in and they’re pretty much taking things from the party and wearing them themselves.” The protagonist of the story is “making something out of nothing,” a founding principle of anOnlyChild along with the use of deadstock fabrics. But rather than projecting scarcity, Osborne’s fall lineup exudes opulence in a wealth of options.Gatherings and bubble hems were common denominators in the collection, cleverly used on tops, dresses, and coats. Osborne employed volume and shirring as a tool for building a consistent silhouette and signature design details. Most striking were cropped bomber jackets made in leather and fabric with the shoulder dropped and the sleeves and back shirred, creating a spherical shape from every angle. The shirring also appeared under the plackets in quarter-button shirts, in the center front of silk dresses, and as details in elevated tracksuits. “The idea is that you’ll see these bigger proportions gathered or with cinched waists, but that comes from someone taking found jackets or pieces and making them work with their sizing and proportions,” Osborne explained.He also carried over the short-sleeve suit from last season, which was inspired by the Kariba suits created by designer Ivy Ralph once worn by the Jamaican prime minister Michael Manley. This time around, the jacket was deftly cut in an exaggerated hourglass silhouette with puff short sleeves, worn both as a mini dress and as part of a fantastic two-piece suit. “People keep talking about a ‘West Indian’ aesthetic or the brand being a ‘Jamaican heritage brand,’ but that feels very strict. The brand isn’t about Jamaica, it’s more about the mentality of playfulness and having nothing and making something,” Osborne explained.While Chapter 1 was personal in that it was Osborne’s return to New York Fashion Week, this season is even more so because “I can see myself wearing it,” he said. “It’s more in my wheelhouse, and I feel more comfortable here telling the story about who this girl is.” When asked to define her, he started, “you know, the girl on the go, very New York, she wants to dress up...” before stopping with a laugh. “Everybody always says the same thing, butthisis her,” he said, pointing to a model in a sheer blouse and wide-leg pants. At anOnlyChild, “the girl” is defined less as a specific person and more by a sensibility. That mindset will help Osborne keep growing as he settles into this next chapter.
|
José Criales-Unzueta
|
March 20, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/64147c38e1de3a4ca6f70cdd/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-anonlychild-fall-2023-ready-to-wear-credit.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Anonlychild
|
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/anonlychild
|
Maxwell Osborne returned to New York Fashion Week this morning with the second show of his latest venture: AnOnlyChild. Osborne is a familiar face at NYFW, though. He is one half of Public School, which took over the New York fashion scene back in the early 2010s. AnOnlyChild premiered last September with a show in Mount Vernon, New York. But “that was just a teaser,” Osborne said backstage. Today’s collection was titled Chapter 1: It’s Getting Late. “Mount Vernon was for the elders, to enjoy as a family; this time around it’s for real,” he added.“The collection is about my upbringing, the West Indian vibe [Osborne’s family is Jamaican], but it’s really just about what feels right and what the fabric dictates,” he said. Everything is made out of deadstock, which gives the pieces an added layer of personality, a lived-in and familiar feel. “If everybody lives in the same household, what does that collection look like? That is what AnOnlyChild is about,” said Osborne in reference to the personal touch and familial ties he and his team like to imbue into every piece. The silhouettes this season were informed by his West Indian heritage. He looked at old footage and pictures of his family and reimagined those same outfits for today, updated but with the same cultural nuance.But as charming as deadstock is, it also produces a production challenge. “We’re still figuring that out bit by bit,” he said when asked about production runs. “Some retailers have taken it for what it is, like maybe two size runs of some things; others we have to swap out for something similar, but it’s a learning curve that is exciting to take on.” Creatively, though, he said it’s been inspiring for him and his team. This was clear in the run of silk dresses and meticulously crafted separates he sent down the runway. Most impactful were tailored pieces like the short-sleeve suit jackets in looks 5 and 13 and the jackets in looks 23 and 25. As Osborne plans to keep moving forward with deadstock, a continued focus on construction details and prioritizing building identifiable silhouettes should enable him to develop a design language independent of color, prints, and textures.
|
José Criales-Unzueta
|
September 10, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/631ccb193897ed156aca9f3f/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-anonlychild-spring-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Anouki
|
tbilisi-spring-2019
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/tbilisi-spring-2019/anouki
|
The Anouki show invitation this season was charming—a pamphlet based off of old Georgian women’s newsletters. It included the collection’s inspiration (the ’70s and ’80s), beauty tips (a full vintage guide on how to care for one’s lips), and a location explanation (it was held at the city’s newest hotel, Stamba.) Designer Ana Areshidze, who is wife of the city’s mayor, is thinking a little differently than in prior seasons. This was evident not just in that pamphlet, but in the clothes, too. Areshidze swapped gratuitous embellishments for a focus on cut and print.A nice example of the collection’s new, sophisticated point of view was a floral print blouse with puffed sleeves. Elsewhere, a trench coated in silver paillettes was overwhelming, but a double-breasted dress with an off-the-shoulder collar of sequins looked just right.
|
Liana Satenstein
|
November 9, 2018
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5be41103a6b318451696864b/master/w_1280,c_limit/EJ__0568.jpg"
] |
tbilisi
|
spring
|
2019
|
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]
] |
|
Anouki
|
tbilisi-fall-2018
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/tbilisi-fall-2018/anouki
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5aecfbafa97cd938a6c100f8/master/w_1280,c_limit/EJ__3287.jpg"
] |
tbilisi
|
fall
|
2018
|
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] |
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