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Anouki
|
tbilisi-spring-2018
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/tbilisi-spring-2018/anouki
|
Designer Anouki Areshidze’s shows are typically packed, but her latest, set at the massive Expo Georgia, felt even more crowded than usual. That might have had to do with the fact that her husband, Kakha Kaladze, a soccer player turned politician, was recently elected the mayor of Tbilisi. Some people are now referring to Areshidze as the First Lady of Tbilisi. Talk of the town aside, the designer is one of the few who has enjoyed consistent success outside of Eastern Europe. She sells at Moda Operandi and held a well-attended presentation in Milan in September.Clothing-wise, she upped the glint this season, coating trousers and skirts in silver sequins. The effect was busy when paired with anything printed, but it worked when a white wrap dress was layered over a spangly turtleneck. One thing customers can count on from Areshidze is her footwear. It’s pretty, decorated, and smile inducing. A pair of white kitten-heel pumps with bejeweled tassels was just what the collection needed for it to come together.
|
Liana Satenstein
|
November 6, 2017
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5a006840bb46f564f6a99a88/master/w_1280,c_limit/EJ__7256.JPG"
] |
tbilisi
|
spring
|
2018
|
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] |
|
Anouki
|
tbilisi-fall-2017
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/tbilisi-fall-2017/anouki
|
Anouki by Anouki Areshidze is one of the best-known labels to come out of Georgia, mostly thanks to the designer’s handmade embroidered footwear. In keeping with her successful shoes, Areshidze’s clothes are quite embellished with a look-at-me vibe. This season, she continued to explore mismatched shirting, slicing pin-striped button-ups and stitching them to natty cardigans. Some of the pieces were a bit too sweet.Georgian pride has become a bit of a thing for Tbilisi’s designers, Areshidze included. Considering her high-flying Western clientele (she sells at Moda Operandi), putting her very non-Western culture on the runway is an unexpected move. But items like belt bags with Georgian script seem like a new, fairly unfussy way to attract customers.
|
Liana Satenstein
|
May 9, 2017
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5911f2773ddd370325778341/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-anouki-fall-17.jpg"
] |
tbilisi
|
fall
|
2017
|
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] |
|
Anouki
|
kiev-spring-2017
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/kiev-spring-2017/anouki
|
Founder: Anouki AreshidzeYear Established: 2013Known for: The designer has a flourishing footwear label in her home country of Georgia. Shoes are all handmade and often have embellishments and embroidery.Spring 2017 Inspiration: Basketball courts and the architecture of southern Italy, resulting in plenty of blush hues, as well as her signature off-the-shoulder dresses and men’s shirting.
|
Liana Satenstein
|
September 2, 2016
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/57c9e882602df97e79a16248/master/w_1280,c_limit/Anouki_02.jpg"
] |
kiev
|
spring
|
2017
|
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] |
|
Anouki
|
kiev-fall-2016
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/kiev-fall-2016/anouki
|
Founder: Anouki AreshidzeYear established: 2013Known for: Handmade tweed and embellished shoesFall 2016 inspiration: The Middle Ages
|
Liana Satenstein
|
February 8, 2016
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/56b75f26c9323b164a76ab21/master/w_1280,c_limit/Anouki_001.jpg"
] |
kiev
|
fall
|
2016
|
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] |
|
Anrealage
|
spring-2025-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/anrealage
|
It was impossible not to notice that under the black nylon Anrealage-branded jacket he was wearing backstage before this show, Kunihiko Morinaga had gained some major bulk. His torso had the unlikely volume of some old-school circus strongman. The secret to the designer’s transformation sat just above the hem of his jacket: a one- or two-inch diameter fan that drew in air and gently inflated the garment.As Morinaga explained, “air-con clothing” has been a thing in Japan for several years. After much trial and error it was invented and perfected by former Sony engineer Hiroshi Ichigaya (check the entertaining profile onnippon.com) as a new form of cooling workwear. The idea is that the constantly refreshed aura of air encircling the body allows for the speedy evaporation of sweat and the maintenance of a bearable temperature. Enthusiastic clients from the construction sector and other hard-working, weather-exposed industries have enabled Ichigaya’s 2004-founded company Kuchofuku to expand almost as rapidly as its garments when they inflate: The category it pioneered is now worth more than $140 million a year in sales.Which brings us back to Anrealage. Morinaga’s first three models came out in loose, drapey and opaque romper suits in white, pink and blue. When the fans (which can be controlled via app) were started the ultralight nylon garments inflated—and the audience was rightly wowed. Applause still rang as further sections followed. Prints showed the graphic elements of polka-dot, check and houndstooth as if they’d been windblown like autumn leaves. These had been printed with a water-free process named Forearth invented by another Morinaga collaborator, Kyocera. We saw a section of amusingly steroid-enormous track-jackets before Morinaga really found his own creative wind by applying an artistic agenda to Ichigaya’s pragmatic invention.Morinaga used the inflationary pressure of the Ichigaya process to create shapes that were semi-abstract, but also evocative of insects, flowers, birds and coral. Fabrics included what looked like a tweed, but mostly stuck to the parachute lightness of nylon. Powerfully unfamiliar, these would be a challenging wear in a banal and daily context for anybody who wilts under scrutiny. Yet accompanied by Jakops’s specially-composed, urgently uplifting soundtrack it was easy to see these Anrealage pieces absolutely in their element on some loopily enhanced midsummer’s dancefloor. The shapes Morinaga was throwing were fun and fascinating. And in the sweltering closeness of the Palais de Tokyo basement space we were watching them in, the appeal “air-con clothing” technology was obvious.
|
Luke Leitch
|
September 24, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/66f322eb19a5a8faef1739b2/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-anrealage-spring-2025-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2025
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Anrealage
|
fall-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-ready-to-wear/anrealage
|
What a shame. As the small-font list of names on the credit sheet attested, a lot of people worked hard to get this afternoon’s planned Anrealage show ready to go. But in a twist that could almost have been scripted (by an especially sadistic writer), the always futuristic plans of Kunihiko Morinaga were today undone by a technological glitch.By the time we filed in past the Standing sign, the show had been downgraded to a presentation. A line of models wore outfits in zestfully patterned fabrics, alongside “floating” objects similarly clad. These were hanging by fine clear wire from a tracked rig in the ceiling. Morinaga explained through his translator over loud music (tricky), that he’d been inspired by 1970s manga cartoonDoraemonto create outfits both for his models and for imagined objects that were sort of personal drones and real world avatars rolled into one. He talked about how in the future the consideration of dressing such objects might be just as relevant as dressing people. There was a Reebok collaboration that involved some refashioned Instapump sneakers and a sneak peak at the work Morinaga has been cooking up as artistic director of a line by Italian outerwear brand Herno.Looking at that roof rig you understood that the models were probably supposed to have been followed by their matchy-matchy “objects” as they walked the show. But that show never happened because, it was confirmed later, something-or-other that enabled this illusion to occur failed at the last minute. This was a pity for Morinaga and all those colleagues. The designer was left describing what might have been, instead of showing what might become. And while it was disappointing too for the audience, it was worth considering that Anrealage has created a series of mesmerizingly innovative shows in recent seasons: even the best of us strike out sometimes.
|
Luke Leitch
|
February 27, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/65de566ec16484f02ca7ce9c/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-anrealage-fall-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Anrealage
|
spring-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/anrealage
|
After last season’s Anrealage collection went viral, Kunihiko Morinaga’s color-changing collection was spectacularly worn by Beyoncé during her Renaissance tour. The light of that global exposure hit Morinaga´s house at precisely the right moment: at the same time, under the name ANVISUAL, he trademarked the technology he has been developing for over a decade to incorporate the photochromic properties into fabrics that enable it to change color when hit by UV.“Now we want to develop this business,” said Morinaga backstage before his show. Evidence of that was the eyewear collaboration, oversized and vintage looking, with X8, which, like most of the accessories in this show, had been given the ANVISUAL treatment. Another collaboration with a significant Italian label will be announced for next year.Last year’s line-up was so striking because UV light was applied to Morinaga’s looks in a quick top-to-bottom burst that changed the garments’ color in an instant—and so intensely that many Instagram commentators were misguidedly concerned that the models were at risk. This presentation saw the light applied more slowly, yet it was still potentially just a little unsettling, as new technologies so often are.The models came out singly or in pairs in double layered looks; all-white Angrealage bodysuits under more voluminous transparent PVC garments in various shapes, some lined with strips of fabric or squares of crochet. Bags, boots and loafers were also made in the house’s new PVC, which Morinaga said was not only photochromatic but phthalate-free and therefore (relatively) environmentally friendly. Once they had been photographed in this all-white and transparent apparel, the models stood on a turntable set into the floor: this rotated, allowing the banks of UV and other lights in the gantry above to illuminate the garments—which of course changed color.What was impressive today was how the formerly transparent PVC immediately acquired the opaque visual solidity of color. You could see this having applications not only in clothing, but in architecture—a flash of UV could make a see-through window instantly “covered” and spell curtains for the curtains industry. The slower application of the light meant you could see the garments and accessories acquiring their colors as they rotated on the turntable like popcorn in a microwave. There was a fly buzzing around the room in YOYO (a space often used by Rick Owens as backstage), and every time the lights were illuminated it zoomed with gusto towards them, before backing off as they dimmed.The collection teased at a new relationship between the time taken for color to bloom and then fade. Morinaga was interested in using the empty space between his body suits and PVC outer-layer as a kind of visible/invisible cladding—an atmosphere—of worn personal environment. Elsewhere he incorporated more conventionally color-filtered lights to mess with the impact made by the garments on the visible spectrum, prompting the crochet paneled garments to apparently change from one color to another.Morinaga and his fellow Anrealage pioneers have carved a distinct and exciting niche in garment technology: the challenge now is how to export it from the stage or the runway onto the sidewalk. But this was another mesmerizing show of chameleon clothing.
|
Luke Leitch
|
September 26, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/65131804d37b6965ec29dec7/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-anrealage-spring-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
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|
Anrealage
|
fall-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/anrealage
|
Kunihiko Morinaga first incorporated fabric with light-dependent color-changing photochromic properties a decade ago and has since regularly returned to the technology, once in collaboration with Fendi. This evening at the Théâtre de la Madeleine, we saw it again, and again it was a pleasure: This is an Anrealage coup de théâtre that never gets old. The latest update featured new photochromic hardware—Morinaga said this was the first time he had integrated the technology into faux fur, velvet, lace, knits, jacquards, and satins and added that he had never before been able to create shifting shades of colors like yellow, red and purple. There was also a new thesis: Morinaga considered the philosophical/biological concept of Umwelt—that our perception of our environment is defined by our capacity to perceive—to make the point that things are not necessarily what they seem to be.Pairs of models came out on stage wearing adjacent but not identical garments that were often cut symmetrically to look the same from the front as behind or to have what you would expect the back to look like in front. Two UV-emitting tubes were lowered in front of the models to the slow build of Ravel’s “Boléro.” As the light passed in front of the garments, their color transformed from (mostly) white into vivid tones and patterns, including an Anrealage monogram and polka dots. The models then turned 180 degrees and were zhuzhed again. According to Morinaga the clothes also react to the UV in sunlight, and the reaction is specific to the particular weather conditions to which they are exposed: There was a deeper environmental point waiting to be exposed by this line of consideration. From shoes to cloche furs, the garments duly transformed: Possibly the most impressive addition to the routing was when a yellow dress was applied with vertical green stripes—it was a freshly revelatory deployment of Morinaga’s magic. The audience applauded almost every metamorphosis.
|
Luke Leitch
|
February 28, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/63fe4df13b1bc67fc4826a81/master/w_1280,c_limit/00002-anrealage-fall-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Anrealage
|
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/anrealage
|
If you watched this show via stream, you could be forgiven for confusing its concept with that of a recent notable other. “Like Gucci,” smiled Kunihiko Morinaga in agreement: “But not twins—clones!”Put simply, the first 15 looks that we saw in the live run of show were the same as the last 15 looks, except that the last 15 were worn turned inside out (shoes excepted). Between these two repetitions was a five-look interval of all-black pieces, which—like every other item in this, um, 20-look collection—were constructed from thousands of triangular patches of deadstock fabric drawn from past Anrealage collections. The most complicated look featured just under 4,000 individual pieces of fabric stitched together. The contrast between right way round and inside out was presented more directly online, with the models spliced to walk simultaneously alongside themselves wearing both looks.This was a 20th-anniversary show, so many of these looks were drawn from past Anrealage silhouettes—and very effective they were too. Even with such a complicated form of construction (surely these pieces were computer modeled before construction), the fit, form, and drape were fluid and attractive. The fabrics ran from Liberty-esque ditsy-print cotton to black grosgrain to air-washed denim.Morinaga said that after the last two-ish years of digital shows—including possibly my favorite from the whole desperate period—he’d wanted to present these pieces twice, from both inside out and not, to demonstrate something physical: the written-in stitches showing the level of handcraft demanded to create them.But Morinaga was not going completely analog. Everyone in the audience was issued headphones by Japanese manufacturer NTT Sonority, ear-looped designs whose buds lay on the external concha (above the auditory meatus) to allow the user to hear the outside world and the recorded simultaneously. Through these we listened to a soundtrack that was sometimes broadcast both through them and on the P.A. and sometimes only through them: This was when you could pick up shutter clicks, keyboard taps, and even the odd scrape of pen on notebook.This collection was a clever way to merge Anrealage’s technological-facing tendencies, which were only heightened during the pandemic, with Morinaga’s fundamental craft. When you looked at sections of the garments closely, it produced the same sense of discombobulation produced by close inspection of an Andreas Gursky photograph: These were huge landscapes of fabric, virtual worlds created by a web of stitched fabric and immense imagination.
|
Luke Leitch
|
September 27, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/633323d8511638ad76c89b03/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-anrealage-spring-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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|
Anrealage
|
fall-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/anrealage
|
Following last season’s collection built alongside and within Mamoru Hosoda’s soaring anime fantasyBelle, this season Anrealage designer Kunihiko Morinaga made an even greater imaginative leap by taking his collection to the moon. Kind of. This collection was shot and filmed in a moon-simulating Japan Aerospace Exploration Agency (JAXA) lunar training site named the Advanced Facility for Space Exploration. As Morinaga explained, the space agency approached him to collaborate after seeing thatBellecollection (it’s nice to consider that Japanese astronauts might sometimes orbit Vogue Runway).The film began with a close-up of a space boot modeled after NASA’s originals and made in partnership with United Nude lifting slowly down and off the surface to leave a footprint. This was a gentle reference to Neil Armstrong’s first step on the Sea of Tranquillity and, Morinaga stressed in his notes, to the sentiment written upon the plaque he and Buzz Aldrin left there: “Here men from the planet Earth first set foot upon the Moon July 1969, A.D. We came in peace for all mankind.”The collection that followed was referential to space suits both in appearance and substance: the collection incorporated an ultra-light aerogel typically used in space gear that offers insulation properties down to -196 degrees Celsius. This material, which Morinaga said was light enough to use every day and in less grueling temperatures, coated a series of helmet-accessorized looks that were either volumized astronaut-appropriate interpretations of Earthling staples, or his Earthling riff on the space suit itself.Before we got to a second all-white section worn helmetless and all featuring a helmet-friendly wide-neckline there was a series of three amazing black dresses the designer said contained a layered mesh of fiber optic cables. The Anrealage team has developed an app that connects to the garment and allows the wearer—or someone with the wearer’s permission—to pattern, color, or otherwise illustrate the surface of the dresses as they wish: an amazing invention.This collection’s collaboration with JAXA as well as other industrial Japanese big-hitters, including Toyota and Bridgestone, suggests that Morinaga’s technologically driven creative artistry in fashion design is increasingly being paid attention to as a catalyst for wider innovation. This is a big ideas designer who surprises every season.
|
Luke Leitch
|
March 8, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6222638c74d063bc1f571cd0/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-anrealage-fall-22-ready-to-wear-paris-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2022
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Anrealage
|
spring-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-ready-to-wear/anrealage
|
Fashion inhabits the relationship between human psychology, the human form, and the fabrics that act as that form’s facade. Because humans inhabit the “real” world, fashion feels fundamentally analogue—because you can’t download a dress, right? And yet increasingly, fashion is migrating with the 5 billion humans who now live partially online to evolve new forms in that “unreal” world.Through analogue research and conceptual ingenuity, Kunihiko Morinaga’s Anrealage—a name that blends the words ‘unreal’, ‘real’, and ‘age’—has long wowed us in Paris with his technologically-driven artistry. For this collection, he stepped forward into a fashion space that was less Charles Frederick Worth than William Gibson to produce one of the most beautiful digital presentations and concepts of the pandemic period.It began near the beginning of that period, when Morinaga was approached by Mamoru Hosoda to design a costume for his latest anime epic,Belle. The film was released in Japan this summer and not only looks awesome but has beenhailedfor its rewriting of the gender stereotypes endemic in its art form. Here, clearly less significantly, it contributed to an upgrading of our understanding of fashion, too.Hosoda collaborated with Morinaga to create this great collection film. It begins with the formation of the clothes as Morinaga designed them, not through cut and drape but via cut and paste, and we see the garments as digital toiles made up of fractal contours true to the representation of futuristic facades stretching back toMetropolisandTron. Then the dresses form more tangibly, but still in 2D, filling those vectored spaces with the angled jigsaw of reclaimed denim, chino cotton, and gabardine, plus reflective material (all seamlessly bonded) from which they are made. It slowly becomes kind of clear that we are seeing a fashion show in U, the virtual world whichBelle’s heroine inhabits—and that it is also being streamed on U’s equivalent of YouTube. There are rooms within rooms within rooms.As Morinaga explained, the collection will also be sold in NFT form via a platform that allows bidders to watch the presentation as U-inhabiting avatars and also to bid cold hard cash (or crypto) for the digital pieces. The final look is a real-world rendering of the digital dress and face mask he created for Belle herself, which appears in the feature film. “To create animation is something virtual,” said Morinaga of this digital-first collection: “But we can use the data to create it with materials. And we can change the textiles with one click.” Maybe the simple way to explain this process is that the digital sketch comes before the finished dress—like it always has—but that this digital sketch can itself be “worn.” As for the digital sketch being sold, Morinaga added: “It’s true that there’s no physical object in the NFT world. But in this pandemic situation, it’s become also true that something digital can be something real.” Even if fashion NFTs seem counterintuitive for us non-digital natives, there is clearlysomethingin them—and in this collection, Morinaga produced garments that were highly attractive to inhabit in whatever form, and on whatever platform. PlusBellelooks like the perfect reason to go back to the movie theater.
|
Luke Leitch
|
October 2, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6156edd1d09b387647d75ffc/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Anrealage-Spring-2022-RTW-Credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2022
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Anrealage
|
fall-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/anrealage
|
Although super-frustrating to try and see on a phone until you worked out how to lock its geomagnetic auto-correction orientation, this Anrealage show and collection was also super-fun. As Kunihiko Morinaga said in a gloriously cryptic preshow email exchange: “The sky covers the world. It’s unusual. The ground supports the world. It’s usual.” Asked for clarification, he added: “The digital fashion show brought by this pandemic situation has changed the world…. Everything has become flat. There is no top and bottom in the screen, even gravity and mass have disappeared.”Morinaga’s rebuttal to our 2D digital purgatory was to reimpose the laws of gravity while simultaneously flouting them. His models walked first on the floor and then the ceiling, the looks reflecting their relative “usual” or “unusual” positioning. Worn at 180 degrees, polka dots, checks, houndstooth, a star pattern, floral, and argyle diamonds all tumbled down (or up, if worn foot to floor) toward the shoulder. A funny sweater made a Zoom-age mockery of Sir Isaac Newton’s observation about apples and gravity. It wasn’t only patterns that succumbed to inversion: Pockets and collars on bikers, truckers and trenches, ruffles on dresses, hems on bombers, and even shoelaces were fashioned to appear upside down even when the “right” way up. Another less visible reflection of now’s unusual normal was in the collection’s fabrication. According to Morinaga, about half of it was made using fabric with antiviral properties. He added: “How to see the garments, how to present the garments, how to buy the garments...every method that was unusual has become usual. In this pandemic situation extraordinary things became everyday, and the two opposite worlds became mixed.” This was a collection that turned downside into upside via a simple conceit that was ingeniously executed.
|
Luke Leitch
|
March 8, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/604612fd9be4eef310cd87aa/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-ANREALAGE-FALL-21-RTW.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2021
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Anrealage
|
spring-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2021-ready-to-wear/anrealage
|
If Kunihiko Morinaga had staged a physical show in his usual Tuesday timeslot of PFW, we would not have had the opportunity to see his collection play out against the wide-open backdrop of Mt. Fuji. It’s also unlikely that the 18 colorful geometric structures spaced out across the landscape would have fit inside the typical Paris venue. The fabric stretched across these various polyhedrons was just light enough to reveal a model within each. Then, thanks to Morinaga’s talent for transformation, the models were suddenly on the outside in period-style silhouettes created from the structures themselves. Quite simply, they were wearing tent dresses. Only these were complex, 3D-modeled iterations that assumed oversized but not unwieldy volumes. Over Zoom, the designer explained how the collection’s title, “Home” was less about staying indoors than about feeling shielded and safe. “Home can be worn like a garment and a garment can be a home.”To that effect, the parachute-like fabric supposedly has the added value of being antiviral. Morinaga worked with Japanese manufacturer Shikibo Ltd., combining antibacterial copper and polyester fibers with their antiviral treated textile, originally developed to protect against influenza. “I wanted to find a way to connect fashion with medical,” he said.As trench coats, capes, shirt dresses, and gowns accented with ruffles, ruching, and poufs, these looks were clearly a far cry from hospital scrubs. But they were consistent with Morinaga’s perpetual study of construction. “The architecture [of the tent] is very hard and the garment is something soft—these two things are completely different and [I] wanted to find a way to make these things at the same time,” he said, admitting that it was a particularly complex concept. But that didn’t stop him from adding bonus features: The sculptural headpieces were designed by architect Kengo Kuma and can double as lampshades, while the patchwork neon looks glow in the dark.Designers prove over and over again that difficult times birth visionary ideas, and with this collection, Morinaga seemed determined to address the moment in a purposeful and uplifting way. Whether or not we need our dresses to convert into aesthetically-pleasing, self-contained bubbles, this is what innovative fashion is all about.
|
Amy Verner
|
September 29, 2020
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5f7316f7acc1f016d8410894/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-ANREALAGE-RTW-Spring-21.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2021
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Anrealage
|
fall-2020-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-ready-to-wear/anrealage
|
Kunihiko Morinaga works through a concept the way high-school students might work through a math or science problem. For each seasonal hypothesis he gives himself, the ensuing experimentation ends up resolved and runway ready. It’s a good thing that precision is among his fortes, but it’s also clear that he thrives on play. With this collection, he played in a very literal way by drawing inspiration from building blocks.In fact, building blocks aren’t all that different than patterns—both consist of combining various shapes into larger forms. Morinaga could have stopped somewhere here, but instead he took his concept further by designing each garment so that it could be disassembled and re-assembled into new shapes. Translation: if you’re so inclined, you get to play too.Consider the first three looks in this lineup, each essentially an enhanced outerwear piece: puffy trench, navy blazer, MA-1 blouson. All those exaggerated seams conceal a system of snaps that allow the entire garment to be deconstructed and then reconstructed into the subsequent three looks. Morinaga then shifted between the original “Basic Blocks” and the “Rebuilt Blocks,” gradually favoring the latter, as you can see from all the material and color-blocking. Aran knit now mixed with patterned velvet, and eco fur mixed with denim. Anrealage graciously provides annotated collection diagrams, so assuming you have the patience to study them, you can actually grasp the extent of Morinaga’s methods.Unsurprisingly, the blocky concept translated into blocky silhouettes; demilune and triangle shapes, for instance, were true to form but would register random for those unaware of the premise. Yet as new permutations emerged, it became clear that Morinaga had actually conceived an entire secondary collection from the original designs. Accordingly, you might be tempted to buy not just the red duffle coat, which was fun and functional, but also the yellow down coat so you could combine the puffed sleeves of one with the body of another. Clever.Morinaga is among the designers shortlisted for the LVMH Prize—a spot he has rightfully earned on the basis of originality, execution and, yes, proof of concept. The only thing missing: some trace of emotion. It might be unfair to ask this of him given that it’s never been part of his schtick. However, if he could somehow build a block combining ingenuity and feeling, he’d stand to win us over.
|
Amy Verner
|
February 25, 2020
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e55434ea631190008eea5de/master/w_1280,c_limit/_FIO0030.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2020
|
ready-to-wear
|
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|
Anteprima
|
spring-2025-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/anteprima
| null | null |
[
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] |
spring
|
2025
|
ready-to-wear
|
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||
Anteprima
|
fall-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-ready-to-wear/anteprima
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/65d767dccde1c034e4caed65/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-anteprima-fall-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
||
Anteprima
|
spring-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/anteprima
| null | null |
[
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] |
spring
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
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||
Anteprima
|
fall-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/anteprima
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/63f79af787b87f49f7a32a19/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-anteprima-fall-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
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||
Anteprima
|
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/anteprima
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/632ccee6993b2add9769060b/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-anteprima-spring-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
||
Anteprima
|
fall-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/anteprima
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/620fe081bb71c929194814c1/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Anteprima-Fall-22-RTW-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2022
|
ready-to-wear
|
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||
Anteprima
|
spring-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-ready-to-wear/anteprima
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/614b02467a7b4f8e5e97edba/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Anteprima-Spring-2022-RTW-Credit-Brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2022
|
ready-to-wear
|
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||
Anteprima
|
fall-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/anteprima
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/603613033b8e9b3b12097660/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Anteprima-RTW-fall-21.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2021
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
||
Anteprima
|
spring-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2021-ready-to-wear/anteprima
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5f6c58b2622b7d762094ba92/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Anteprima-RTW-Spring-2021.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2021
|
ready-to-wear
|
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||
Anteprima
|
fall-2020-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-ready-to-wear/anteprima
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e5131f4244d0b00073b62b9/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Anteprima-RTW-Fall-2020.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2020
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
||
Anthony Vaccarello
|
fall-2016-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/anthony-vaccarello
|
Anthony Vaccarellohas been the subject of rumors in Paris that name him as the designer in line to inheritSaint Laurent, shouldHedi Slimaneleave the Kering brand, as has been whispered about for months. Before his show today, Vaccarello played down the rumors, and there was “no comment” from his reps, but inevitably a frisson of energy was added to his Maison de la Radio show space. It wasn’t just the presence of the newly platinum-again Lucky Blue in the front row.Vaccarello landed on the Paris scene five years ago now, with his leggy sensibility fully formed. If there’s been a knock on him in the time since, it’s that his clothes are too single-mindedly sexy, but it hasn’t much hurt his trajectory.Donatella Versaceput him in the driver’s seat atVersus Versacea year ago. And now there are the Saint Laurent headlines.In the absence of firm statements, it’s tempting to look for clues to Vaccarello’s state of mind in his new clothes. Fall did find him stretching a bit. It will remain the leggiest collection of the week (save for at least one brand we can think of that tends to crib liberally from him), but there was news to be found: in the colorful crystal flower embroideries, in the Claude Montana–ish rounded shoulders of the tailoring (the ’80s are rematerializing everywhere this season), and in Vaccarello’s excellent fur-lined outerwear.The designer explored corsetry details, only he shifted the perspective, cinching the hip area rather than the waist. The effect was especially cool on hoodie dresses, one in a substantial black leather and another layered underneath a cropped bomber, which counted as two of the most compelling looks in the show. He also gave tooled leather a go, cutting it into fitted jackets and minis with flames shooting up the front, which had the unfortunate whiff of Western costumes. It wasn’t perfect, but Vaccarello should feel pleased with himself and this collection, no matter what his future holds.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
March 1, 2016
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/56d5d118d44ad6bd4ce138a0/master/w_1280,c_limit/_VAC0021.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2016
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Anthony Vaccarello
|
spring-2016-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/anthony-vaccarello
|
For a Spring season, there’s been remarkably little heat on the runway. It’s been one more or less sexless show after another, then along comesAnthony Vaccarello. The Belgian-Italian designer, as his fans and his detractors like to say, never met a slit he didn’t like, and in typical fashion this show was full of them. But there were also other things happening, new things that made this outing feel like Vaccarello’s most diverse to date. Take, for instance, the T-shirt and tank dresses printed with a closeup of his friend and museAnja Rubik’s face. As they approached, it became clear that the dresses weren’t printed at all, but rather embellished with gradient clusters of studs depicting photographer Collier Schorr’s portrait of the unmistakable model. Just think of the Instagram possibilities.Also novel: Tattoo prints on crisp white cotton button-downs. Vaccarello has a distinct point of view, and, until now, there hasn’t been much room in it for such decorative motifs. But now that he’s up and running atVersus Versace—he took his first solo bow there a week and a half ago—he’s clearly set his mind to expanding the world of AV. To that end, he made a big push into denim, the entry-level price-point item that can really goose a brand’s bottom line. High-waisted styles, one accessorized with a denim belt that grazed the rib cage, will be about as forgiving as his hip-high slits, but there were loose-fitting boyfriend jeans in the mix that will appeal to a broader swath of body types.Vaccarello also put his first bags on the runway. The gold detailing on a pair of cross-body styles echoed the hardware that accented this collection’s strong military-influenced tailoring and its drapey jersey numbers.Binx Walton, fashion’s tomboy du jour, looked terrific in the one-shoulder, asymmetric-skirt bathing suit dress. Best in show, however, goes toEdie Campbell’s fitted officer’s jacket and sexy black jeans.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 29, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/560abe83c800de5c211d65f0/master/w_1280,c_limit/_ARC0030.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2016
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Anthony Vaccarello
|
fall-2015-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/anthony-vaccarello
|
Anthony Vaccarello and Donatella Versace made it official in January. After collaborating on the Spring '15 capsule collection for Versus, Vaccarello got the creative director gig at the label full-time. Donatella was sitting in the front row at his own show tonight, and he stopped by for a hug and a kiss when he came out for his bow. Vaccarello arrived on the scene four years ago, a young Belgian with a vision much sharper and more developed than that of other newcomers his age. As he learns to split his time and talents between his eponymous collection and Versus, which is no easy feat, the challenge will be maintaining the brands' separate yet complementary identities, which is an even harder one.On the runway tonight, there were moments when they inched too closely together. As the show progressed, though, Vaccarello found his groove. He reported backstage that he'd been spending a lot of time in the U.S. over the last couple of months, and its symbols have seeped into his subconscious. The stars on the flag; the cowboy's brown suede, fringe, and bolo tie; the bald eagle—all of them got the designer's no-holds-barred treatment. In some states, the heavy-metal tube fringing that trimmed minidresses and skirts would qualify as a deadly weapon, but the stars, which could've been clichéd, were cleverly handled. Their sharp angles were wedged into the thigh-high asymmetric hemlines Vaccarello is known for, or picked out in heavy-duty studs, suede, and sheer insets along a sexy one-shoulder neckline. Have you ever seen a star-shaped grommet before? We haven't, and come to think of it, their peekaboo possibilities will probably be illegal in certain states, too. All-American or not, party girls will love these clothes.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
March 3, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650b008298d8be214743b/master/w_1280,c_limit/MARC0021.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2015
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Anthony Vaccarello
|
spring-2015-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/anthony-vaccarello
|
Anthony Vaccarello took his second bow of the season tonight. In New York he'd walked down the Versus runway with Donatella Versace, trailed by models wearing the label's most spot-on collection since it was revived five years ago. The experience with Donatella must have had an effect on him. Vaccarello's team for his own label is four people. Versace's? Let's just say it's a lot bigger. So it's no wonder Vaccarello was in innovation mode today, thinking about his own brand, and branding. The first look out was a logo sweatshirt, stamped with his name and the season, worn with one of his signature diagonally sliced miniskirts and a shrunken leather jacket. A somewhat banal beginning, but one that Vaccarello made up for later with the cool, graphic manipulations of both his name and the word "Spring."The world of ships and sailors was Vaccarello's jumping-off point. His seafaring references ran from the obvious to the less so—a brass anchor planted on the chest of a neatly cut sleeveless jacket; button-down shirts unbuttoned to the navel, conjuring visions of swashbuckling pirates. Vaccarello also had some sharp-looking denim, tailored in his typical take-no-prisoners way—note the on-theme portholes. But the real news was in the dresses and separates emblazoned with block letters created, he explained, by laser-cutting plastic film and heat-transferring it onto fabric. They twisted around the torso or the hips (occasionally and unfortunately exposing the models' undies) like a sail wraps around a mast. Vaccarello hinted that the block letters were inspired partly by France's many protests and partly by the artist Richard Prince. There was also the Versace factor: Those were his first-ever prints, bold and unmistakable. Donatella would approve.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 23, 2014
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c651c508298d8be227ba88/master/w_1280,c_limit/VAC_0043.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2015
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Anthony Vaccarello
|
fall-2014-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2014-ready-to-wear/anthony-vaccarello
|
Tony Viramontes' name is coming up with increasing frequency in fashion circles these days. An exhibition at 10 Corso Como in Milan can do that for an artist. Anthony Vaccarello said he didn't see that show, but he's the latest designer to key into the 1980s illustrator's expressive, graphic work. Viramontes' drawings influenced the sculptural patent red ruffle that curved down the front of a strapless black cocktail number and the inverted triangle cutout on the midriff of a one-shouldered minidress. Vaccarello credited the metal leopard grommets he appliquéd on leather separates to Viramontes, too.More loosely, Viramontes' eighties heyday was reflected in the show's silhouette: the pronounced shoulders, the bum-grazing minis, pants with pleats (a first for Vaccarello). But if the clothes glanced backward, they didn't look retro. The turtleneck dickeys paired with even the sexiest of looks added a cool, modernizing touch.Besides, Vaccarello's signatures are strong. The asymmetric hems on miniskirts and the hip-high slits on longer ones made this collection look identifiably his own. It was easily his most well-rounded so far, with a new emphasis on tailoring and outerwear. Vaccarello has been criticized in the past for his too-specific point of view. Let's face it, hip-bone-baring dresses are for the very few. But take another look at the shearling jackets and coats he opened this show with: They'll appeal to a lot of different women, 6-foot-tall super-babes and otherwise.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 24, 2014
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6513a08298d8be21dcdd0/master/w_1280,c_limit/_ARC0007.1366x2048.JPG"
] |
fall
|
2014
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Anthony Vaccarello
|
spring-2014-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2014-ready-to-wear/anthony-vaccarello
|
The man who made Anja Rubik's hip bone a worldwide fetish is back at it again for Spring. "Girls are their most beautiful during their holidays," Anthony Vaccarello explained backstage. "I wanted to try to bring swim to the city." Vaccarello's method was to cut dresses and miniskirts with a triangular-shaped hem in the front that he connected to the back of the garment with narrow horizontal bands. If there's a way to show off more upper thigh—outside of just sending the models out in bathing suits—no one else has come up with it. The work was clever and well-done. Cabochon-shaped brass buttons accented the bands, which elevated the collection; the dresses had the disciplined precision of military uniforms, a feeling that was heightened when Vaccarello did them in combinations of white, red, and black.You'll have to be mighty disciplined to wear them, of course. "Model hot," as the parlance goes. Vaccarello likes what he likes, which is more than you can say for plenty of other young designers, but he's making clothes for a very small minority. That's why his tie-dyed denim was a promising development. It looked as cool on a pair of slouchy boyfriend jeans (accessorized with a red belt and matching shoes made in collaboration with Stella Luna) as it did on one of those sexy, high-waisted minis with the cutouts on the side. Yes, the Vaccarello woman is the life of the party, but even in fashion, however much we hate to admit it, parties come to an end. To evolve, the designer will need to keep thinking beyond cocktail hour.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 23, 2013
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6512308298d8be21c34d8/master/w_1280,c_limit/MARC0011.1366x2048.JPG"
] |
spring
|
2014
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Anthony Vaccarello
|
fall-2013-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2013-ready-to-wear/anthony-vaccarello
|
"It's a big change for me," Anthony Vaccarello said backstage, "there's nothing fitted." Nothing fitted? The Belgian Vaccarello has built his reputation so far on super-revealing, more-bare-than-there party frocks. He's always included a few tailored pieces in his lineups, but until now it's been Karlie Kloss' six-pack or Anja Rubik's hip bone that have landed him headlines. He hasn't gone respectable on us—not with Karmen and Isabeli rocking evening dresses inset with embroideries of silver discs that made it clear they weren't wearing underwear. Still, you will notice a new emphasis on outerwear, leather separates, and knits. If that sounds hopelessly dreary—like he's been listening too closely to the department stores—it wasn't.Vaccarello kept coats interesting by inserting chain-link embroideries at the cuffs, or using silver spikes instead of toggle closures, hardware that reappeared on sandals and boots. He's never worked with leather before, but you wouldn't guess he was a beginner. A blouson dress with a dropped waist, rounded shoulders, popped collar, and pushed-up sleeves looked killer. For gals who like things a little more body-con, he showed a button-up top tucked into a tiny mini with an asymmetric hem paneled in those silver discs. The ribbed angora crews and turtlenecks softened the tough-chic vibe of other hardware-strewn leather minis. The key to the new feeling of the collection was probably the double-crepe he used for many of the looks, those finale dresses included. "When you wear it, you feel comfortable," he said. Comfortable and sexy at the same time? It's a combination that could really take Vaccarello places.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 25, 2013
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6511008298d8be21ae455/master/w_1280,c_limit/_VAC0040.1366x2048.JPG"
] |
fall
|
2013
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Anthony Vaccarello
|
spring-2013-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2013-ready-to-wear/anthony-vaccarello
|
Type in "Anja Rubik + hip" on Google's image search and up pop 88,000 pictures of the Polish model in the leg-baring white Anthony Vaccarello gown she wore to last May's Met Ball. 88,000! In a very short time Vaccarello has developed a big reputation for tiny clothes—sexy and fearlessly body-baring. Rubik opened and closed his Spring show today, and her finale look was very nearly as revealing as the dresses that put him on the fashion map a year ago. This time, her gown was billowy up top instead of clinging, but that famous hip bone still drove the photographers to distraction. We heard catcalls.Vaccarello's main idea for Spring, he explained backstage, was to mimic the way a woman's clothes might cling to her legs and hips if she went into the ocean fully dressed then walked out again. Above the waist the shapes were boxy; below it, shirred lamé clung to the models' backsides, with the wrapped silhouettes splitting in the middle, directing all eyes to the upper inner thighs. One black dress made it look like the model had been shipwrecked and came up for air wearing just her heels and an old sail draped from a cord above her bust. It was all too much. Or maybe we should make that too little.But if his vision for evening remains as provocative and niche as ever, Vaccarello is also expanding his daywear offerings. Silk camp shirts with matte silver buttons were paired with satin shorts or pants, and he cut a pantsuit from holographic animal print. Those looks won't garner him tens of thousands of Google hits, but they are the kind of things that a solid business is built on.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 24, 2012
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650f908298d8be2194877/master/w_1280,c_limit/_FIO0015.1366x2048.JPG"
] |
spring
|
2013
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Anthony Vaccarello
|
fall-2012-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2012-ready-to-wear/anthony-vaccarello
|
Anthony Vaccarello's Spring collection catapulted him to fashion fame. Karlie Kloss rocking a peekaboo gown that's more bathing suit than dress will do that to a guy.For a follow-up, the Belgian newcomer decided to put his focus on tailoring. "I wanted something more masculine, more strong," he said of his navy satin suiting pieces with their military vibe. For the record, Kloss chose his collection as her runway re-entry after sitting out New York, London, and Milan—and the buttoned-up shirt, blouson jacket, and high-waisted pants she wore prove that he's not a one-trick kind of designer. Suits have gone mostly missing on the Fall runways, which gives Vaccarello an edge, but even if we'd seen lots of them this season, the sleek two-piecers that followed KK down the catwalk would be worthy of shout-outs.The task he set up for himself for evening—marrying that tailoring with 1950's lingerie shapes—was more difficult. To start with, his daring jumpsuits and dresses absolutely demand supermodel-caliber physiques. But even if you've been blessed in the bod department, their elaborate construction and cutouts make it tough to get the fit right. A too-tight hem meant a miniskirt rose scandalously high on its model's thighs, and on some pieces, fabric bunched and puckered where it should've been smooth.Still, his clothes are sexy as all get-out and modern-looking, too. The right magazines will want to shoot them, and the best celebrities will ask to borrow them. Couple those facts with the more commercial but still connected tailoring and we'd say Vaccarello is on his way to building himself a brand.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 27, 2012
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650e608298d8be21809b0/master/w_1280,c_limit/00010fullscreen.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2012
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Anthony Vaccarello
|
spring-2012-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2012-ready-to-wear/anthony-vaccarello
|
Backstage, Anthony Vaccarello was marveling: "All the models called up, asking to be in the show," he said. When Anja Rubik asks, no isn't an answer. Vaccarello won this year's ANDAM prize, and he used the award money to fund his Spring collection. It was a much bigger production than Fall's, but the Belgian designer's MO hasn't budged an inch. He established it last season: tight, body-conscious, short, and black, with more cutouts than there are covered-up parts on some of the dresses.For Spring, Vaccarello found his muse in Herb Ritts' early-nineties glory days. Picture Cindy Crawford cavorting in a maillot on the beach in Malibu and you'll get the idea. It was racy, in both the sporty and the suggestive meanings of the word. Dresses were so abbreviated and body-baring, they could have almost doubled as bathing suits. Even the long gowns, in a stretch black jersey and a black-on-whitefils coupe, were cut asymmetrically, so one leg was covered up and the other was cut as high as the hip. Karlie Kloss had the crowd agog in hers.Vaccarello's dresses will make startling images in magazines, but sad as it is to admit, we aren't all Karlie Klosses. Vaccarello made plays for more commercial pieces—the navy trench with the slight sheen that opened the show; the T-shirts that played sheer against opaque, worn with Bermuda shorts; a pair of jumpsuits. He'll have to keep pushing himself in this direction to make a go at the retail level. Still, cling was the thing at this show. For fashion followers, there's nothing sexier than a designer with a strong vision.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 26, 2011
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650cf08298d8be2168d82/master/w_1280,c_limit/00010fullscreen.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2012
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Anton Belinskiy
|
kiev-fall-2018
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/kiev-fall-2018/anton-belinskiy
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5a7b62c5019ccb0a5a50809b/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-anton-belinskiy-fall-2018.jpg"
] |
kiev
|
fall
|
2018
|
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] |
||
Anton Belinskiy
|
kiev-spring-2018
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/kiev-spring-2018/anton-belinskiy
|
One Day ProjectAnton Belinskiy is one of the brightest talents in Kiev. This is the former LVMH Prize finalist’s second year heading up One Day Project, a mini Fashion Week that is dedicated to showcasing a handful of young designers in Ukraine. Belinskiy successfully presented his collection in Paris last season and is slated to show there again in a few weeks, but he has a soft spot for Ukraine and presented his Spring show here, too. One of the attractions of Belinskiy and his work is that his love for his country is genuine: He can take all of his nation’s kitschy post-Soviet offerings and make them entertaining, beautiful even. For example, the show’s setting this season, the second floor of the local bazaar Zhitniy Rinok, which was filled with stalls selling monstrous cow legs and slabs of pig fat. It also smelled overwhelmingly like fish.That said, this show had its idiosyncrasies. It started more than an hour late. The hairstylist refused to work due to a messy dressing room. Meanwhile, as guests were waiting, a random dog licked itself in the middle of the runway. The situation was symbolic of the particularly slow and bizarre workings of Ukraine. Funny enough, the collection was based on the country’s politics, something else that is riddled with perpetual standstills, typically due to corruption. To emphasize this, Belinskiy used Hawaii as a jumping-off point, referring to it as a “favorite, vulgar” vacation for politicians. Among the catchy floral aloha-print pants and shirts, tongue-in-cheek standouts included a bikini cut from the fur of a hat worn by cabinet members and a mahogany brown puffer coat that mimicked the leather couches in the Ukrainian parliament.Despite his critique of Ukrainian politics, Belinskiy didn’t forget his homegrown pride. If you looked close enough, you could see that those Hawaiian shirts were dotted with pretty marigolds, a beloved flower in Ukraine. Elsewhere, a yellow and blue Ukrainian flag was cleverly inserted into a striped polo.
|
Liana Satenstein
|
September 5, 2017
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/59aaac2795962b1aa2b0e2e6/master/w_1280,c_limit/FKCH_9835.jpg"
] |
kiev
|
spring
|
2018
|
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] |
|
Anton Belinskiy
|
ukraine-spring-2017
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/ukraine-spring-2017/anton-belinskiy
|
Year established: 2009Known for: A brighter, happier take on the post-Soviet wave in fashion. He was short-listed for the LVMH Prize in 2015.Spring 2017 inspiration: Belinskiy focused on coming-of-age themes, including receiving your first passport and going to your prom. Hoodies had passport photos emblazoned on the chests, while dresses looked disheveled, as if they had enjoyed a night of partying.
|
Liana Satenstein
|
October 25, 2016
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5806785c34023b05331dd5b1/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-anton-belinskiy-spring-2017-kiev.jpg"
] |
ukraine
|
spring
|
2017
|
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]
] |
|
Anton Belinskiy
|
kiev-spring-2016
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/kiev-spring-2016/anton-belinskiy
|
Founder: Anton BelinskiyYear established: 2009Known for: An eclectic mix of fabrics and textures, as well as color-blocking; Belinskiy was a semifinalist in 2015's LVMH Prize competitionWorn by: Avant-garde fashion loversSpring 2016 inspired by: Russian avant-garde artists like Kazimir Malevich and Wassily Kandinsky slicked over in a Soviet nineties redux.
| null |
September 8, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55edbfaf71e7efe847482715/master/w_1280,c_limit/_AG20703.jpg"
] |
kiev
|
spring
|
2016
|
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]
] |
|
Anton Belinskiy
|
kiev-fall-2015
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/kiev-fall-2015/anton-belinskiy
|
Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.
| null |
March 29, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650b608298d8be214de2f/master/w_1280,c_limit/DSC001_A2X9558.jpg"
] |
kiev
|
fall
|
2015
|
[
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] |
|
Antonio Azzuolo
|
spring-2013-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2013-menswear/antonio-azzuolo
|
Like many designers, Antonio Azzuolo doesn't have a lot of time for "inspirations." "Myexperienceinspires me," he said at his Spring presentation today. His experience is tailoring. And though that tailoring is often styled exotically at his presentations, his approach, he said, "is very pragmatic." Make a good jacket, sell a good jacket; the rest is set dressing.For Spring, Azzuolo riffed on the wrapped styles he trotted out for Fall, creating a long, draped "vest"—a sleeveless robe, really—that, in his words, introduced movement into the traditional three-piece suit. Because Azzuolo's work is so fine and so costly, he's often at pains to undercut its preciousness. Here, he showed it with Nike sneakers, thumbed his nose at conventions of formalwear (sport shirts got tux-shirt bibs), and commissioned ultraexpensive French jacquards in acid-rave colors. But more effective, for business and for art, was theactualundercutting effected by the introduction of unstructured tailoring, which will bring his entry price point down to about half what it has been. That should help to ensure that his slow-going-but-still-growing roster of stores—which, as of Fall, includes Jeffrey and The Corner—continues to expand.
|
Matthew Schneier
|
September 9, 2012
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650f308298d8be218e467/master/w_1280,c_limit/antonioazzuolo001.1366x2048.JPG"
] |
spring
|
2013
|
menswear
|
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]
] |
|
Antonio Azzuolo
|
fall-2012-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2012-menswear/antonio-azzuolo
|
Antonio Azzuolo is a born tailor. He's on his firmest footing when he plays to his strength."There's a focus on what I do best, the tailored blazer and garment," he said at his sunny presentation this morning. Azzuolo's rope-shouldered, cropped blazers—the pieces, no doubt, that won him consideration for the CFDA/VogueFashion Fund prize—were versions of what he's shown before, but none the worse for that. The basic precepts of suiting don't change, and part of the beauty of suit staples is that they're strong enough to be practically indestructible. Made correctly, in the kind of ateliers the designer worked at during his tenure at Hermès, they'll be literally indestructible, too. (Forget buy now, wear now; it's buy now, wear forever.) Azzuolo tipped his cap to the craftsman there by mimicking basting stitches on the fronts of some jackets. Squint, and they looked like a parody of pinstripes. Don't laugh. These could sell.But Azzuolo couched the sartorial with what he called a street influence, amping up volume and emphasizing layering, the result of a recent trip to Japan. He introduced a series of sleeveless kimonos, which were layered under jackets and over loose shorts. It served as a reminder that there's an alternative narrative of suiting, too, one stranger, sportier, and occasionally sexier. Designers as disparate as Thom Browne, Scott Sternberg, and Kris Van Assche have helped to write it in the margins. It's not a surefire recipe for success. But even when it doesn't lead you to success, you stumble in distinguished company.
|
Matthew Schneier
|
February 11, 2012
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650dc08298d8be2175f0f/master/w_1280,c_limit/00010fullscreen.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2012
|
menswear
|
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] |
|
Antonio Azzuolo
|
spring-2012-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2012-menswear/antonio-azzuolo
|
Garnering a CFDA/VogueFashion Fund nomination is no small accomplishment, and Antonio Azzuolo isn't taking the nod lightly. Upon hearing of his nomination, the designer, who is going on his eighth season with his line, a. a., and also consulting for the eyewear maker Warby Parker, expanded his original plans for a modest "what would fit in a travel bag" lineup into a 25-look collection premised loosely on globe-trotting. That gave him the room to tackle more than his trademark tightly tailored jackets. "Young guys are interested in sartorial, timeless dressing, but they want it in a modern way," Azzuolo said. "The way we dress today, it's really a duality between the very tailored, sartorial look and the street."In practice, this Montreal native tends to walk on the dapper side of that street. His knits came in lushly soft merino wool, and an ice blue turtleneck was an ode to Jacques Cousteau. Outerwear and jackets remain Azzuolo's strong suit. Sporty half-zip pullovers, a continuing silhouette from his Fall 2011 collection, came in bright yellow and red. Meanwhile, blazers—including one cut from a pink and lime print sourced from the French mill Malhia Kent, which supplies fabric to many of the couture houses—sported softened shoulders and were neatly cropped. The designer, who paid his dues at Ralph Lauren, ran into some trouble lower down. A baggier trouser was a savvy idea, but the drop-crotch and bootcut-leg combination was less convincing.Overall, though, you couldn't deny Azzuolo's skill or eye for glamour, and in three formalwear looks, he let his tailoring flag fly. "Many of my friends were looking for options for weddings, and I do love the ceremonial," he said. One double-breasted dark charcoal suit flaunted rope shoulders, a more aggressive, slightly upward-sloping construction seen in seventies Brioni and current Tom Ford. By keeping the rest of the cut clean and sparse, Azzuolo made it work.
|
Bee-Shyuan Chang
|
September 8, 2011
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650c808298d8be2160884/master/w_1280,c_limit/00010fullscreen.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2012
|
menswear
|
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] |
|
Antonio Azzuolo
|
fall-2011-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2011-menswear/antonio-azzuolo
|
Before launching his namesake collection, Antonio Azzuolo spent years at temples of luxury tailoring: Ralph Lauren's Black and Purple Labels on the one hand, Hermès and Kenzo on the other. He also happens to be the son of a tailor, so it's no surprise that Azzuolo knows how to cut an excellent jacket. He's wisely made it his signature. This season's iteration comes in navy or brilliant red, with a light pagoda shoulder, a double-breast, and collar or lapels trimmed in Persian lamb. Azzuolo's craft is worth every penny, and it costs more than a few. No wonder he's big in Japan, where such things are prized.There are strengths and weaknesses among the rest of his offerings. This season, he drew inspiration from the Séeberger brothers, the early street-style photographers who shot Deauville and other French resort towns in the 1930's. That accounts for a bit of the luxe, louche chic (and maybe also the free hand with white fox). Wild bursts of color, as on the trompe l'oeil knits, on the other hand, are a more contemporary touch.Azzuolo is fond of elegance and glamour, but there are times when he shades into the precious. Jackets cut from bouclé and Linton tweed—a fabric prized by Coco Chanel—felt like a bit too much. But sportier pieces, like the technical-wool anoraks the designer calls popovers, helped to ground some of the flightier flights of fancy.
|
Matthew Schneier
|
February 11, 2011
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6519108298d8be223f9f0/master/w_1280,c_limit/00010fullscreen.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2011
|
menswear
|
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] |
|
Antonio Azzuolo
|
fall-2010-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2010-menswear/antonio-azzuolo
|
Style.com did not review the Fall 2010 menswear collections. Please enjoy the photos, and stay tuned for our complete coverage of the Spring 2011 collections, including reviews of each show by Tim Blanks.
| null |
February 11, 2010
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650aa08298d8be214169b/master/w_1280,c_limit/00010fullscreen.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2010
|
menswear
|
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|
Antonio Berardi
|
resort-2020
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2020/antonio-berardi
|
Since opting out of the traditional catwalk some seasons ago, Antonio Berardi has experimented with new ways of presenting his collections, focusing on the lookbook format as a sort of curated editorial manifesto. He’s dispatched photographer Daniel Arnold to the streets of Milan solo with a model; he’s had his editor friends lensed in their favorites outfits, and he’s asked the Swedish performer and women’s rights activist Arvida Byström to take artistic selfies. Last season, it was the flamboyant Paris-based stylist Catherine Baba’s turn to pose in Berardi’s not-for-wallflowers looks.For Resort, he appointed British photographer Derek Ridgers, famous for his stark portraits of punks, skinheads, musicians, and club kids, to shoot the 17-year-old British trans model Finn Buchanan, who recently walked the binary-blurring Spring 2019 Maison Margiela show and was cast by Hedi Slimane in his first men’s show for Celine.“He was wonderful, poetic and lithe, almost angelic,” said Berardi of Buchanan, who personally chose the clothes he wanted to be photographed in. “What’s most interesting in this lookbook is that it has taken certain aspects of what I do into new territory,” continued the designer. “Finn owned all the looks, whether feminine in their approach or masculine in their execution.”Gender blurring is the fashion topic du jour, as the Spring 2020 men’s collections that just closed in Paris proved fairly enough. The open exploration of male sexuality and masculine self-expression, easing somehow into feminine territory, has become one of the most fertile, emotionally profound narratives of the decade. “The young are really writing history,” speculated Berardi. “They can be non-binary, transgender, male-to-female, and vice-versa, and they can live in their bodies and be who they want to be. Finn is a boy, but there will always be that feminine aspect to him. It’s part of who he is. Stereotypes are completely going out the window.” With awareness and support for LGBTQIA+ communities spreading across the industry and society, Berardi’s stance felt not only sensitive but utterly on point.The collection exuded a gentle, fluid feel; the designer took a decidedly softer route than usual, swapping the architectural edge he favors for a smoother, almost breezy approach. Lines and shapes had clarity and, as always chez Berardi, sophisticated execution; yet a sense of unrestricted movement was conspicuous in the use of sheer, airy fabrications and in looser, more relaxed proportions. Even corsetry was given a breath of lightness, with flimsy organza ribbons laced across the back of a simple yet well-tailored short jacket. Elsewhere, the “shadow of a corset,” as the designer described it, was patched at the front of a floral-printed chiffon dress, with a billowy asymmetrical train. The same unconstrained spirit was conveyed by a marigold yellow floral-printed minidress, cut from a square of dévoré chiffon and gathered loosely at the hips. “People today don’t want to be restricted,” said Berardi. “Neither in their clothes nor in their sexuality.” It couldn’t be truer.
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
June 25, 2019
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5d11ddcc5fef9a578daa6a16/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Antonio-Berardi-Resort-2020.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2020
|
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] |
||
Antonio Berardi
|
fall-2019-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2019-ready-to-wear/antonio-berardi
|
Antonio Berardi recently opted out of the catwalk format, choosing instead to present his collections by appointment in a private space in Milan. It’s a smart way of taking direct control of every aspect of a label’s operations, from communication to distribution, which appeals to high-end designers with experience, a strong vision, and an independent mindset. In this choice, he’s definitely not alone: There are quite a few creatives in fashion today embracing a more personal way to relate to their audience.Berardi was born in 1968 and, as with his Pre-Fall collection, he took that groundbreaking moment in time as a starting point. “It was tumultuous, a year which changed so many attitudes,” he said. “And where so many new ideas were born.” Indeed: the riots in Paris; a man orbiting the moon; the assassinations of Martin Luther King Jr. and Robert Kennedy; the Black Power salute at the Olympics. “There are so many similarities to now,” Berardi said. We cannot argue with that; today’s reality is certainly as intense as those years were.The end of the ’60s also marked a major shift in style—in a there’s-no-going-back move, high-fashion met the street for the first time. “The safari jacket, the jumpsuit,” Berardi continued. “Fashion then was geometrically precise, yet soft, romantic.” He wanted to capture that spirit of freedom and haute bohemia while treating sensuous fluidity to the exact, razor-sharp cutting technique at which he excels.The collection, focused on eveningwear, had the designer indulging his penchant for dramatic style. He played with contrasting overblown volumes and feminine shapes, which were rendered sculptural and chiseled. Undulating, shapely frills and ruffles on a short shift dress exuded a theatrical flair, more couture-ish than whimsical; a flowing chiffon caftan printed in pink camouflage motifs had a built-in bejeweled bodice and jacket. Highlighting the inventive work on shapes and cut, a sinuous long dress in flame red silk cady had a balloon cape; and a figure-hugging number in bougainvillea pink paired with a matching sleeveless round-shaped cape-jacket had billowy slit sleeves. You could easily picture an Oscar-winning actress looking fabulous in it. Ditto a white silk cady column dress with a sexy bejeweled lace-up motif on one side, apparently inspired by the 1968 YSL safari jacket.Strong personalities are naturally drawn to Berardi’s sensational creations, from Lady Gaga to Olivia Colman. That’s one reason why he has chosen to shoot the lookbook’s images on real women, whose characters resonates with his aesthetic. After having involved his editor friends and the Swedish artist and activist Arvida Bystrom, this season he had the collection modeled by Australian-born, Paris-based stylist Catherine Baba. “She looks more French than a Parisian,” he mused. Her personal look relates to a certain idea of glamour that this collection exuded. “Clothes definitely need to be interpreted by a strong personality and become part of someone else’s universe to be given life,“ he said. “Those clothes, they will have experiences all of their own.”
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
March 12, 2019
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5c87b62d5eb2192d5f7d7835/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Antonio-Berardi-FALL-19-Ready-To-Wear.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2019
|
ready-to-wear
|
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|
Antonio Berardi
|
pre-fall-2019
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2019/antonio-berardi
|
The freedom of doing what you really like on your own terms is a luxury not many fashion designers can afford. We all know that today’s fashion world order doesn’t make life easy for those who decide to fly solo, but the rewards are surely worth the effort. At least that’s how it seems looking at Antonio Berardi’s professional trajectory. His company recently went independent, and a refreshed energy has been activated, clearly perceptible in his work.After relocating to Milan, he opened a showroom that also works as a made-to-measure atelier. Fashion shows have been reduced to a more intimate format. Berardi enjoys the freedom of collaborating with creative friends and artists with a strong point of view. His collections’ lookbooks are treated with the same artsy attitude that editorial projects require. For Pre-Fall he entrusted the lookbook to 27-year-old London-based Swedish photographer and women’s right activist Arvida Byström, whose art practice centers on gender politics. She photographed herself in a series of self-portraits, modeling the collection’s looks.Byström’s fierce personality and her liberated confidence in celebrating female sexuality clearly fascinated Berardi. He’s drawn to intense, assertive women. “I grew up with feminine role models in my family, unknowingly subversive, and often overlooked, but they were pioneers,” he wrote in the press notes. “I’m lucky to work with women who are trailblazers in every sense. Feminine to the last, but who at close inspection are actually the alpha males of our species.”While in his fashion shows the celebration of powerful femininity is often indulged through a majestic sculptural theatricality, in the Pre-Fall collection he softened his message with a more youthful spirit. Yet his masterful tailoring technique still did the talking. Berardi’s suits are cut with sharp precision; here, they were proposed in heritage checks or silk and corduroy, the blazers either feminine and fitted at the waist, or masculine and slightly oversize, worn with elliptically cut matching miniskirts. Trapeze opera coats in black silk duchesse or in bright green curly wool had a couture flair, counterbalanced by the sensuous fluidity of short dresses in floral-print crepe de Chine with black Chantilly lace inserts. Berardi’s penchant for immaculate, chiseled shapes was highlighted in short bustier dresses and in high-waisted tutus paired with matching brassieres in sumptuous emerald green brocade. Even a bona fide activist like Byström seemed to enjoy their seductive, hyperfeminine flair. Looking beautiful can actually be rather subversive.
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
January 19, 2019
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5c434201733a802cfeea7aa0/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-antonio-berardi-pre-fall-2019.jpg"
] |
pre-fall
|
2019
|
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] |
||
Antonio Berardi
|
spring-2019-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/antonio-berardi
|
Milan’s runways were full of supermodels of previous eras. Carla Bruni, Shalom Harlow, Karen Elson, the list goes on. Antonio Berardi did something different. In place of a show or presentation, the designer invited his friends in the industry to pose for pictures in Spring looks of their choosing. My Vogue Runway colleagues Sarah Mower (look 8) and Tiziana Cardini (11) selected a printed blazer and trousers, and a flowing robe de chambre and slip dress, respectively. Representing the opposite polls of the collection, the two looks showcase Berardi’s always impressive sartorial skills and his knack for flou; he’s that rare designer who can convincingly do both. He’s also got a wicked eye for color. Photographer Rosi di Stefano shot Anna Dello Russo, Lisa Armstrong, Net-a-Porter’s Alison Loehnis, and Berardi’s longtime stylist Sophia Neophitou-Apostolou, among others, for the project. Not a millennial in the bunch, and with reason. Berardi’s sensibility is sophisticated. He likes a “worked” silhouette, which means his clothes lean strongly toward the glamorous and dressed-up.The unique thing about this collection was its lighter, more relaxed aspect. That was intentional, Berardi said. Pre-seasons are his bigger collections; here he wanted something more intimate. So, rather than use actual lace, he printed it and blew it up, and embroidered parts of an easy tunic with flat mother-of-pearl beads. Poplin button-downs with adjustable sleeves were cut in the shape of Ts—easy. That said, Berardi’s ingenuity didn’t fail to impress. One special dress cut on a circle required an astounding 50 meters of fabric, yet remained surprisingly light. And be sure to look closely at dello Russo’s toile de jouy number. Its deceptively classic motif features all kinds of kink.There are a couple of working models in this lookbook, but it’s something altogether different to get women who live their lives on the other side of the camera, who maybe (probably) don’t like to be photographed, to agree to pose for you. That so many agreed is a testament not just to Berardi’s charm, but also to his talent.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 24, 2018
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5ba8fea56841cb2d49d51113/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-antonio-berardi-collection-spring-2019-ready-to-wear-credit-rosi-di-stefano.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2019
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Antonio Berardi
|
resort-2019
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2019/antonio-berardi
|
If he weren’t a fashion designer, Antonio Berardi could consider a career in writing. The email he sent this reviewer about his Resort collection was a well written and moving account of his British upbringing as the son of Sicilian immigrants. His childhood memories served as inspiration this season, but they are also a perceptive reminiscence of the clashes and overlaps of two different cultures in a moment in time, filtered through the eyes of a sensitive kid.Berardi is steering his fashion house in a new direction. Last season he showed in Milan for the first time, presenting his collection in his flat after years of showing in London, and he recently opened a new showroom in an elegant yet intimate apartment in a Milanese palazzo. He also had his Resort lookbook shot around Milan by the photographer (and frequentVogueonline contributor) Daniel Arnold.“Everything in this collection has a little story behind it,” said Berardi. “It has a lot to do with my childhood memories.” In England he attended an all-boy grammar school, where kids wore uniforms and sports like rugby and cross country were big commitments. “I even played cricket, which for an Italian wasn’t really stimulating,” he remembered. “But soccer was enjoyed at all times.” The stripes of his house colors were reinterpreted on silk tie fabrics from Stephen Walters & Sons, a historic English mill, and ’70s soccer shirt weaves were remixed in the full-bodied jacquard of a sharply tailored double-breasted pantsuit and a corseted stiff-flounced skirt worn with a tight bolero over a striped bodice.Berardi is a designer who favors a sculptural, elaborate silhouette, yet the collection had a supple feel. His rigorous tailoring was infiltrated by a relaxed sporty vibe visible in lightweight striped parkas layered over masculine shirts and city shorts rendered in substantial shirting cotton or cotton drill.Despite all the sharpness of cut and the precision of construction, there’s always a sensuous flair in his collections, and Resort was no exception. It was brought about by another wave of memories: “I remember the beautiful slips and matching dressing gowns the women in my family would be wearing while getting the children ready for church on Sunday mornings, when we visited my aunties in Sicily,” he recalled. This sentiment was captured in sensual bias-cut silk devoré ruched slipdresses worn with matching billowing blouses, or in flowing caftans in burnt chiffon voile, which conveyed a sense of breezy movement, as did a wind-swept-palm-trees motif printed on a lightweight, loose-fitting duster-parka. “Being a kid coming to Sicily from gray England, those palm trees and blue skies made such a big impact on me,” he remembered. “I was thinking: Where am I? It felt like I was visiting the most exotic, wondrous place on earth.”
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
June 25, 2018
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5b2e7cd97357fe57e6f17528/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-antonio-berardi-resort-2019-Vogue-2019-pr.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2019
|
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] |
||
Antonio Berardi
|
fall-2018-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-ready-to-wear/antonio-berardi
|
“Welcome to my world,” wrote Antonio Berardi in his press release. He meant it literally: The small show was held in his turn-of-the-century parquet-floored studio in a residential quarter of Milan. Berardi’s been showing in London for a long time, but this English-born Italian has been living around the corner from his workplace for years. He said he’d made the decision to narrow down his statement—there were 23 looks versus last season’s 44—to give his audience a closer look at the detail of what he does.Good move, because Berardi is a super-skilled cutter whose design flair is fully on show when he sets about modernizing eveningwear. Midway through the show, there was a Moment: a high-waisted streak of silvered, snakeskin-patterned velvet with a black lace décolleté, covered with a long black cloak. An elegant Academy Awards entrance-maker if ever we saw one.Taking this demi-couture tack, Berardi explored his ideas about dignity, strength, and fashion as protection—themes many designers are currently probing. Some of the micro-studded surface embellishment and square-cut, layered shapes of the outerwear seemed to have been abstracted from armor. Even within such a condensed collection, there was a lot of variety—voluminous lightweight taffeta skirts with open sides paired with sweaters, fluttery chiffon dresses, and blouses over trousers. Sitting up close on gold chairs, the audience did indeed get a better appreciation of the character of his design, and the structural subtleties of such details as the black chiffon edging he inserted in place of the tuxedo stripes in a pair of black pants. Nevertheless, along with the grand silver gown—a guaranteed showstopper for a one-off public event—it was his emerald green velvet trouser suit that won the most self-identification from the women watchers. When Berardi holds back from over-complication, the more likely he is to produce clothes that offer practical longevity. In times when there are just too many clothes in the world, that combination of simplicity and quality is exactly what women are looking for. 
|
Sarah Mower
|
February 24, 2018
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5a95a2180eb2eb69430d12c9/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-antonio-berardi-fw18.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2018
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Antonio Berardi
|
pre-fall-2018
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2018/antonio-berardi
| null | null | null | null |
pre-fall
|
2018
| null |
||
Antonio Berardi
|
spring-2018-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-to-wear/antonio-berardi
|
Giuseppe Berardi left Bivona, Sicily, at 16 and came to Britain in search of work as a miner. Some years later his wife, Concettina, joined him. Their son Antonio was born in Grantham—also the hometown of Margaret Thatcher—and the Berardis had turned to a source of income that supported many first-generation Italian families: selling gelato. Antonio said this collection “was looking back. They had no money, but they were determined to look their best. Relatives in America would send clothes, and they remade and embroidered what they had.”Thus the patchwork and splicing of many pieces here. To the melancholic trombone of “Speak Softly Love,”The Godfathertheme song (Bivona is close to Corleone), we saw an opening section of Prince of Wales–based tailoring-inspired pieces patched with waves of olive, pink, black, and white. A complexly hemmed dress in a metallic floral brocade bordered by scarlet silk was worn beneath a fabulously cut double-breasted jacket with scarlet piping that seemed to meld into its fellow garment. A sort of shirtdress-parka hybrid and a parka worn over another complexly hemmed dress came in a fil coupe pattern and resembled the faded and torn wallpaper in a dilapidated Sicilian palazzo. The fabrication of dresses in linen and cotton voile—sometimes simply checked in blue or more knottily patterned in a vaguely Italian restaurant–tablecloth red—was a conscious evocation of simplicity that was simultaneously belied by the focused complexity of Berardi’s design. A penultimate black section featured broderie anglaise, silk dresses with sheer cutaway sections, and the cousin of that earlier jacket—here in black with a sheer sleeve and shoulder, cinched by a belt-cummerbund hybrid.The models’ hands were marked as if stenciled in lace gloves, a nod to Berardi’s mother’s insistence on wearing just those when going anywhere smart. He said: “And, you know, looking around today, nothing has changed, honestly and truthfully. I see people who have just come over to Europe and they are trying to present themselves the best way they can.” This collection’s integration of Berardi’s authentic experience—an instinctive sympathy—lent an added layer to already very layered clothes. And it was refreshing to see those ostensibly less luxe fabrics in the hands of a designer whose usual commitment is to unambiguous gloss and glamour.
|
Luke Leitch
|
September 18, 2017
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/59bf81b227089d7007aa4e31/master/w_1280,c_limit/KIM_1995.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2018
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Antonio Berardi
|
resort-2018
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2018/antonio-berardi
| null | null | null | null |
resort
|
2018
| null |
||
Antonio Berardi
|
fall-2017-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/antonio-berardi
|
Backstage, Antonio Berardi said that a vision of Lady Macbeth scheming, screaming, and schlepping her way through the Highlands of Scotland was his starting thought for this collection. William Shakespeare first came up with the character, his most compellingly poisonous catalyst for tragedy, three years after the death of Queen Elizabeth I. Contemplating the dress of this period and the rustling synthetic technical gear you’d wear to hike the high road today were aids to reading Berardi’s text in dress.Twin lines of metal-tipped drawstring ran through ruffled skirts and at the hip of some jackets in farthingale arcs. There was an Elizabethan elongation to some of the bodice shapes—some were cast in knit, while others were gridded with constellations of crystal or prettily colored pins and beads (vaguely North African) magnificent enough for Bess (Gentlewoman of the Privy Chamber to Queen Elizabeth I) to paint her portrait in. The wired-stiff, oversize stitched collars on a camel jacket and coat were raffish but versatile. The softly ruffled peplum on the coat was detachable via a golden popper, which offered dressed up or more casual options.Drawstrings were used in suiting to afford a glimpse as well as cinch: This was a covered-up collection with narrowly targeted flashes of fleshy revelation. Panels of textured embroidered chiffon, grayish from afar, were worked into silks on jackets and dresses to provide topography for the watching eye. Apparent-jackets were, in fact, stitched into their billowing-trained skirts or jauntily wide-cut pants. At the end, Berardi’s own narrative wound its course as inevitably as Lady Macbeth’s: Soft pink silk gowns strafed with black lace provided with-a-twist evening poetry. Cleaved not to his mold, this was an unusually wide-ranging collection that touched new ground for this designer: His shirt-hemmed, quilted elongated liner jacket was a far subtler and more compelling riff on British country dress than most floating around London this season.
|
Luke Leitch
|
February 20, 2017
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/58aab4d9f58dd170292d28ee/master/w_1280,c_limit/KIM_0029.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2017
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Antonio Croce
|
fall-2020-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-ready-to-wear/antonio-croce
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e56b5c7a0de340008cca463/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Antonio-Croce-RTW-Fall-2020.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2020
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
||
Antonio Croce
|
spring-2020-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/antonio-croce
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5d96019cd799f700086e72c0/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Antonio_Croce-Spring-20-RTW.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2020
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
||
Antonio Croce
|
fall-2019-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2019-ready-to-wear/antonio-croce
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5c86894133e88e2d2ec412ee/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Antonio-Croce-fall-19-ready-to-wear.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2019
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
||
Antonio Grimaldi
|
fall-2024-couture
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-couture/antonio-grimaldi
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/668bf70f2fc80fb27d132d60/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-antonio-grimaldi-fall-2024-couture-credit-brand-spon.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2024
|
couture
|
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] |
||
Antonio Grimaldi
|
spring-2024-couture
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-couture/antonio-grimaldi
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/65ae838be16a723597e3960e/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-antonio-grimaldi-spring-2024-couture-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2024
|
couture
|
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] |
||
Antonio Grimaldi
|
fall-2023-couture
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-couture/antonio-grimaldi
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/64a2c99b135790a539ac112e/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-antonio-grimaldi-fall-2023-couture-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2023
|
couture
|
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] |
||
Antonio Grimaldi
|
spring-2023-couture
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-couture/antonio-grimaldi
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/63ce9f2f3b8c841452deb7a7/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-antonio-grimaldi-spring-2023-couture-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2023
|
couture
|
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] |
||
Antonio Grimaldi
|
fall-2022-couture
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-couture/antonio-grimaldi
| null | null |
[
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] |
fall
|
2022
|
couture
|
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] |
||
Antonio Grimaldi
|
spring-2022-couture
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-couture/antonio-grimaldi
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/61f034b9208d31e19ed4a067/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Antonio-Grimaldi-Couture-Spring-22-Paris-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2022
|
couture
|
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] |
||
Antonio Grimaldi
|
fall-2021-couture
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-couture/antonio-grimaldi
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/60de0d4abd80dc44463f378e/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Antonio-Grimaldi-Fall-2021-Couture-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2021
|
couture
|
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] |
||
Antonio Grimaldi
|
spring-2021-couture
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2021-couture/antonio-grimaldi
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/600ef8071a8b914c890bc2f3/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Antonio-Grimaldi-Spring-21-Couture.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2021
|
couture
|
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] |
||
Antonio Grimaldi
|
fall-2020-couture
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-couture/antonio-grimaldi
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5f04a81dfa065d89811a0ebf/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Antonio-Grimaldi-Fall-20-Couture.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2020
|
couture
|
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] |
||
Antonio Grimaldi
|
spring-2020-couture
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-couture/antonio-grimaldi
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e26045bc392390008d758ea/master/w_1280,c_limit/_ANT0020.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2020
|
couture
|
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||
Antonio Marras
|
spring-2025-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/antonio-marras
|
Every season for many seasons Antonio Marras has unearthed a compelling story from his home island of Sardinia, then spun a collection around it. This time was no different, but the story was even better than usual. It concerned Anna Maria Pierangeli, a Cagliari born actor who was “discovered” and went to Hollywood in the 1950s, where she met and fell in love with James Dean. The story is much better toldhere, but the short take is that there was no happily ever after.Marras put us in a club, complete with in-house doo-wop band on a glittery stage and an energetic bunch of guys and dolls jiving enthusiastically during a typically overlong introductory section. The collection blended all of Marras’s highly appealing standard techniques and modalities with a this-season layering of 1950s teen fashion and tropicana (a vibe justified by references to Pierangeli's apparent love for vacationing in Acapulco).Pompadoured boys wore handsome South Pacific khaki fatigues with articulated sleeves and prints or patches of orchids and pearls. There were jacquard organza animalia short-and-shirt sets, print-patchwork short-and-shirt sets, embroidered Sardinian postcard motif shirts (for Pierangeli’s imagined postcards from home) and some great tropical print sets featuring rolling surf and rumbling red motorcycles.The womenswear featured rattan parasol hats, multicolored many-tiered fringe dresses, and cinch-waisted and bodiced swing dresses in a Marras-typical multitude of pattern and texture. The knee-high, mid-denier stocking-socks worn by most models featured a back seam that morphed into the designer’s name midcalf: clever. Shaggy fringe feather-wrap dresses and car coats came in soft rainbow tones. Leathers in eggplant purple or olive green, and a cool swing skirt and bomber in incongruously fluoro green—a pleasant jolt—were among the many other highlights in this highly evocative show.Fashion currently lacks great runway storytellers: Many houses with wonderful histories seem barely aware of them, let alone how to articulate them via shows and clothes. Marras is an absolute maestro at spinning yarns through garments—even if he could sometimes use an editor.
|
Luke Leitch
|
September 18, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/66eacc91fe9256a0fdabec98/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-antonio-marras-spring-2025-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2025
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Antonio Marras
|
resort-2025
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2025/antonio-marras
|
“I flee from myself—I fear the encounter with who I truly am,” said Antonio Marras. But fashion allows him to make tangible the contrasts within and give space to everything that is both tempestuous and calm. Marras loves to tell stories, and with the resort 2025 collection, he became the narrator of a fairy tale set in an enchanted garden where nature overtakes the human hand that designed it. “Where perfection creates dissonance, the impulse of nature creates harmony,” said the designer.The Hanbury Botanical Gardens, on the promontory of Capo Mortola, set the scene for the collection: Thomas Hanbury—an English philanthropist, businessman, and navigator—chose Liguria in 1869 to acclimatize plants from around the world, creating a cosmopolitan oasis where diversity intertwines freely. Fior di Sardegna was the title of Marras’s collection because—as Emily Dickinson wrote—being a flower is a profound responsibility. Poetry is a constant in Marras’s aesthetics and philosophy, and this time he imagined dressing Eva Mameli Calvino, the first woman in Italy to obtain a degree in botany and the mother of the famous writer Italo Calvino. Prints born from the scanning of herbaria were interrupted and expanded by solid colors, blurring the line between masculine and feminine. Contrasts took shape in clean lines and 1970s references, in refined embroidery and check patterns, between stripes and damask fabrics, in parkas broken up by pink. Romanticism, at times androgynous, became a tool for palpable lightness and innate delicacy. From chiffon dresses to military fabrics, tulle details to menswear tailoring to sequins, knitwear to couture techniques (where sneakers were the new addition), Marras reflected that sought-after inconsistency that has always defined his identity.
|
Giulia Di Giamberardino
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June 25, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/66796f4ffb8e21f033f0a251/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-antonio-marras-resort-2025-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
resort
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2025
|
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||
Antonio Marras
|
fall-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-ready-to-wear/antonio-marras
|
For 25 years, Antonio Marras’s greatest inspirational protagonist has been his home island of Sardinia. This morning we were transported there again, this time in a retelling of the story of 14th century Sardinian noblewoman Eleanor of Arborea. This tale’s relationship with the truth, you suspected, was about as loose as the designer’s magnificently swooshy double breasted coat-cum-mantle in look seven, but it was no less compelling for that.The timber runway was set around a beautifully ramshackle “tower” made of upcycled wooden doors. A fellow wearing big boots and an Aran sweater kirtle hybrid came out and exhibited powerful vocal projection in his entertainingly histrionic quest to track down the missing heroine. Entirely understandably, his head was turned by La Repubblica’s fashion editor Serena Tibaldi—he spent some time beseeching in her direction—before the “real” Eleanor revealed herself in a magnificent yarn-fringed patched brocade gown.There was much bombastic declaration as Marras’s eclectic cast of late medieval-touched looks emerged from his tower. Rose print silk damasks and sheer organzas were worn alongside abstract chainmail sleeves and collars. A gentleman in a pressed white wool hemmed notch collar overcoat wore a vaguely armor-like metal-embroidered coif, jerkin and underwear. A cracked shearling coat was coated in a glintingly metallic coating, and there was a golden suit, also with coif. The tree heraldic insignia of Arborea was redrawn to be growing from a broken heart on hoodies. We saw some darkly jewel colored intarsia adaptations of Chaucer-style knightly pilgrimage illustrations on a bomber and skirt, as well as in knitwear.Beneath the escoffions, wimples, and otherGame of Thrones-y whatnot, it gradually became apparent that Marras was using his runway quill to trace a more contemporary tale. A black leather biker and zippered skirt look plus some really interesting lurex striped folded sleeve suiting with panelling at the bag suggested he was conjuring the radical spirit of Eleanor and channeling it to fashion updated forms of feminine power dressing. As Chaucer’sThe Wife of Bath’s Taleso sagely observed around the same time Eleanor was doing her thing: “There’s never new fashion but it’s old.” Marras told his ancient story beautifully today.
|
Luke Leitch
|
February 21, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/65d60bd5d1eed79e4466f399/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-antonio-marras-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.JPG"
] |
fall
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Antonio Marras
|
pre-fall-2024
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2024/antonio-marras
|
In Antonio Marras’s far-reaching imagination, there’s no space for boundaries; he believes in a common ground connecting disparate and apparently divergent cultures. For pre-fall he drew a visual parallel between the traditions of Sardinian and Native American communities. The narrative was inspired by Martin Scorsese’sKillers of the Flower Moonand an ’80s album by the Italian singer-songwriter Fabrizio De André, in which he celebrated Sardinia’s fierce sense of independence from the continent, as well as the Native Americans’ fight for their land.The theme translated into a quintessential Marras collection, where references to both worlds were intertwined; patchworks, intarsia, jacquards, and embroideries reprised and reinterpreted traditional Sardinian imagery and Native American graphics. “Animism, mysticism, legends, and symbologies were shared dimensions between these two indomitable populations that fought hard to protect their diversity,” said the designer.Protective garments such as capes, shawls, and blankets were treated imaginatively and rendered into pieces boasting abundant embroideries and appliqués. Opera coats in textured floral jacquard and oversized outerwear hinted at a sense of safety and refuge. Playing with contrasting textures, sequined tulle was layered over tartan on masculine blazers, while macramé lace was lined with dry gabardine wool in feminine apron dresses. Elsewhere, denim was given the softness of dévoré velvet, leather had a vintage, lived-in feel, and brocade in dark tones was used for trench coats with plissé inserts at the back. Marras definitely cannot be mistaken for a minimalist.
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
December 14, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/657728f5c6a0281f7e53c9dd/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-antonio-marras-pre-fall-2024-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
pre-fall
|
2024
|
[
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] |
||
Antonio Marras
|
spring-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/antonio-marras
|
Boom!, directed by Joseph Losey, was filmed in Sardinia in 1967 when Antonio Marras was six years old. He still recalls the glamorous chaos of Hollywood’s arrival in Alghero, from the stars’ yacht lying offshore to the gossip and attempted kidnappings that marked the production. Marras did not, however, mention the standout detail, claimed on Wikipedia, that “during filming [Elizabeth] Taylor’s pet monkey stole a $1,600 jewel case and was missing for a year.”Today’s show was set up as if on a soundstage for a movie, where a cast led by the fabulous Marisa Berenson punctuated the runway action by performing for various cameras: They were riffing on a docu-film namedA Summer With Joe, Liz and Richardby Sergio Naitza that looked back atBoom!’s explosive creation. That chaos was faithfully re-created, somewhat to the detriment of the fashion-show element of the proceedings: There was a long section that oddly centered around the arrangement of some grapes on a living-room table, and after the entertaining opening scene, the drama tailed off. Having various photographers, videographers, and actors milling here and there around the runway, seemingly at random, as the models walked through the stage all served to drag the onlooker’s eye from the real star of this show: Marras’s clothes.Storytelling, however, has always been central to Marras’s process: Now that he has his well-deserved investment from Calzedonia, he is giving that process free rein. Satisfyingly, the garments that impulse served—when you were watching them—also seemed magnified. All the core elements of this designer’s work were present and correct, with an unsurprising emphasis on hosiery. The vintage military spliced with formal tailoring and overlaid with embroidery; the plethora of mid-century shapes in mousseline and tulle layered with paillettes or Marras watercolors and other illustrations; the occasional diversion into contemporary jersey; and the closing lace dress embroidered with an illustration of the Sardinian cliffs from the original Losey film: all well in his wheelhouse. What seemed newer was an emphasis on slouchy-cut leather separates and a significant cast of bags.Not unlike KidSuper’s show for Louis Vuitton menswear back in January, this valiantly ambitious presentation attempted to break too many walls to work as a fashion show: It was something else. The collection, however, was excellent.
|
Luke Leitch
|
September 20, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/650b0ab36234bd738b656020/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-antonio-marras-spring-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Antonio Marras
|
resort-2024
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2024/antonio-marras
|
Caprera is a minuscule island off the northern coast of Sardinia. Rocky, windy, sparsely populated, and rather inhospitable, it’s famous not only for its untouched wild beauty, but also for being home to Centro Velico Caprera, one of the oldest Italian sailing schools. The Centro Velico has learning methods as spartan as its surroundings; regardless of who you are or where you come from, its iron discipline applies to everyone.Antonio Marras, a Sardinian through and through, knows Caprera well, and for resort he wanted to pay a sort of homage to the educational inclusivity of the sailing school. “It’s a place where so many different people meet,” he said. “The common ground is the strong passion they all have for life at sea. I believe fashion is a sort of common ground as well; it’s an amalgam of people from different worlds, who recognize each other through a system of shared meanings.”The collection played on sailing’s stereotypes, reinterpreted by Marras in his freewheeling style of assemblage. Blue was obviously the color that tied it together, offered in a plethora of shades. The strong winds that sweep Caprera’s landscape and the rippling of waves were rendered through airy, lightweight fabrications and billowy shapes, suggesting movement and fluidity. Stripes, polka dots, and florals were variously patchworked together, denim was trimmed with feathers and embellished with sequins or with lace intarsia, and mannish pantsuits came with floral appliqués at the front, while long flowy dresses were treated to fan-shaped overlays of plissé lace.Unconcerned by trends, Marras pursues his own creative journeys. Now that his company has a new owner, expansion of his fashion line and of his artistic practice is in the cards. “Fashion travels by land and by sea,” he said. “It travels to learn, and never stops.”
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
June 14, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/648881d7956dd488a4432578/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-antonio-marras-resort-2024-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2024
|
[
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||
Antonio Marras
|
fall-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/antonio-marras
|
This was same Antonio Marras but different Antonio Marras: Both the sameness and the difference were positive signs indeed for this most deserving of Italian designers. Since 1999 he has presented his distinct, sustainable, and deeply artistic maximalist vision on the Milan runways—always independent, always family run. When COVID hit you worried for this house.And then—like a real-life version of the benevolent spirits that have long inhabited Marras’s shows—came a stroke of great but deserved fortune: Sandro Veronesi’s Calzedonia stepped in with a significant investment and committed to a majority stake, 80%, in the Marras universe. Suddenly, from a team of five, the Marras unit has another family company—but one vastly more scaled up—behind it. There is talk of some 10 stores opening in Italy this year and next year retail moves into other territories, including the US.A newcomer to this show might have suspected that its significant span—all 104 looks—was due to that Veronesi boost. But Marras has always presented extremely long, richly theatrical shows that articulate stories to encapsulate his Sardinian aesthetic. This one was loosely based around Grazia Deledda, who in 1927 became the first (and still only) Italian to win a Nobel Prize for literature—and who was of course Sardinian. Marras and his wife, Patrizia, conjured the story of a mysterious midnight tryst, somewhere in the forest, between a character inspired by Deledda’s writing and a lovelorn hunter.Carmen Kass opened, all in black with a heart memento hanging from her neck, in Marras’s packed home runway space. There were, as ever here, pauses in the walks for the models, mostly enthralled males, to act as amorous supplicants. A wolf howled over the sound system, and leaves rustled underfoot.What was heartening to discover was that new investment had not stimulated a synthetic direction. Marras’s intensely wrought surplus pieces, his feather-trimmed and crystal-heaped knits, his late-19th-century and early-20th-century intellectual femme-fatale dresses, his self-illustrated embroidered patches, his brocade and tulle-edged tailoring, and his dark florals were all present and correct. There was a suggestion of diffusion ahead in two dog-print jersey hoodies that echoed an endearing dog-portrait print used in silk dresses. Tartans and blood-red oversized suiting suggested a very loose consideration of English country dressing.Same venue, same soul, same Marras—but different too. This show marked the punctuation mark from which Marras will be able to spread his always Sardinian story to a vastly increased audience.
|
Luke Leitch
|
February 22, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/63f610072f701bcc579ef274/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-antonio-marras-fall-2023-ready-to-wear-details-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Antonio Marras
|
pre-fall-2023
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2023/antonio-marras
|
Benjamin Piercy was a Welsh civil engineer who in the 19th century decamped with his family to Sardinia to build the island’s railway lines. To make the expat life easier for his wife and children, he built a sumptuous villa in the middle of the Sardinian nowhere, a vast, underpopulated countryside whose nature at the time was wild and intact. The villa and its famed garden, full of exotic natural specimens imported by the adventurous engineer from his travels in faraway places, elicited the curiosity of Antonio Marras. His great storyteller’s imagination was put to work, and he came up with a pre-fall offering inspired by Piercy’s wandering daughters.Romantic and whimsical, the collection was full of patchworked pieces that Marras concocted in endless variations. Bouquets of dry flowers, branches of autumnal foliage, rambling ivy, and feathery ferns were appliquéd on repurposed surplus parkas, ballerina dresses, and knitted jumpers. Colors were faded and misty like autumn in the woods. “I imagined the engineer’s daughters taking long walks in the garden, gathering flowers, keeping them to dry between the pages of a book, and then sewing or embroidering them onto their blouses, kimonos, or on their small blazers and pleated mini kilts.”Marras’s exuberance cannot be tamed, and the collection overflowed with multiple, often contrasting propositions—mini and maxi, fitted and loose, lean and puffy, masculine and feminine. Opposites attract and coexist in Marras’s romantic universe. That’s his well-honed formula, ever regenerated by the power of his flamboyant imagination.
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
January 16, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/63c13ba172fc0d5741d3b64d/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-antonio-marras-pre-fall-2023-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
pre-fall
|
2023
|
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] |
||
Antonio Marras
|
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/antonio-marras
|
A new chapter is beginning for Antonio Marras, whose company recently entered into a partnership with Italian manufacturing group Calzedonia. It will give an obvious boost to Marras’s financial resources, triggering a consequent retail rollout and allowing more creative range and flexibility for the designer. Backstage before the show, he was clearly delighted at the prospect. The first outing of the new deal was presented today in his whimsical Circolo Marras headquarters, made into a lush hothouse for the occasion.Restraint is a concept not in the least associated with Marras’s aesthetic, yet spring felt less inflected with his usual pyrotechnics. That said, true to his often dramatic vision, this season he dedicated the collection to his love of opera and its diva par excellence, Maria Callas, who was paid an emphatic homage at the end of the show with a few hyperbolic concoctions, custom-made by a theatrical tailor.That was the high-drama note of an otherwise rather focused and rhythmic collection, which comprised both a men’s and women’s offer. There were still plenty of elaborate patchwork hybrids, like a masculine pinstriped blazer appliquéd with golden macramé, cut in half and attached to a floral circle skirt, or a sporty varsity jacket in luscious satin heavily encrusted along the sleeves with an inflorescence of lace blooms. It was worn with a contrasting pair of stretchy high-waist briefs introducing a sexy note, which was a first for Marras and a refreshingly up-to-date one at that.A sleek black satin skirt suit looked particularly attractive—the jacket tight-fitting, the midi pencil skirt hip-hugging, the open back revealing an intriguing lace-up play. Marras also embraced the ubiquitous silhouette of the season, the figure-hugging midiskirt with matching midriff-baring brassiere; bodysuits, bralettes, and corsets were also abundantly represented throughout. It was an indication of the wider style range Marras is opening up to and hinted at a new direction that that he should pursue with confidence.
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
September 21, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/632ae410bee7fa2be1d222fa/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-antonio-marras-spring-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
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|
Antonio Marras
|
resort-2023
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2023/antonio-marras
|
Antonio Marras and his wife Patrizia are among fashion’s great storytellers. If they published their press notes in a book, they’d be a literary sensation. For resort they added another chapter to their entertaining narration. The tale was called “The Story of Orlando: Confessions of an Apprentice Greengrocer,” and what follows is a synopsis.“Once upon a time, in a day of intense restlessness, Orlando asked: could it be true that tending to a vegetable garden can improve your moods? So Orlando took to the kitchen garden and started working on tomatoes, pumpkins, and cabbages. They pruned the peach trees, They fed the hens who were hungry. Orlando’s bad mood disappeared. The plants reciprocated their love. They said: “Orlando, you’re one of us; it doesn’t matter from where you come, who you are, what’s your sex, from now on your name will be Neptune.”Neptune was the actual name of the collection’s model, a transgender boy of ethereal charm, who looked ravishing in Marras’s extravagant creations—more extravagant than usual, it must be said. He provided Neptune with a sweet diva-esque wardrobe, crazily patchworked from upcycled scraps of fabrics; assembled from brocades, paisleys and broderie anglaise; and embellished with abundant sequins. Cotton sundresses were printed with watercolor drawings made by Antonio of beetroots, turnips, and cherries; military parkas were transformed into bejeweled specimens and appliquéd with intarsia of silk foulards. Humongous tailored blazers looked as vast as capes; aprons originally fit for watering the vegetation were encrusted with animalier panels, embroidered patches, and baroque trimmings, and made into evening wear.“Dressing up is a joy, it’s fun, it’s a game,” mused Antonio. Neptune goes to the vegetable garden dressed as he would for a Hollywood party. Patrizia chimed in: “Going to a party, peeling tomatoes. It doesn’t matter who you are, a farmer or an actress, or a sensitive soul like Neptune. The garden puts you at peace with the universe.”
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
June 25, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/62a88d93459db19bced93b1d/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-antonio-marras-resort-2023-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2023
|
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] |
||
Anya Hindmarch
|
spring-2018-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-to-wear/anya-hindmarch
|
A three-bedroom detached house with a garage in London SW1? You’re having a laugh! Brexit might have spooked sterling and hiccupped housing, but the center of this city remains ruinously expensive to live in. This morning, though, Anya Hindmarch wanted a house. So she did what the government doesn’t and built one. We were in the middle of town in a grand old hall opposite a field of whimsically uniformed prep school boys playing their Sunday soccer matches and just down the road from Westminster Abbey. Yet it was clear from the shape of the house on the runway—plus the Pet Shop Boys on the PA—that Hindmarch wanted to evoke the sleepy outskirts of the city: suburbia.The lights above dimmed as the contours of Hindmarch’s pad were illuminated by lines of LED. The opening model slouched out in a hoodie with arms of lime-green leather and a body in quilted lime and lilac. She was also wearing a matching headband. Her sides and soft, tubular bag were in upholstery-esque, pillow-like beige nappa leather. What followed was a procession of Hindmarch housewives and daughters in housecoats and hoodies—and sometimes fringed shirtdresses, minidresses with fluted arms or cutaway shoulders, or long-sleeved tees and knickers. There was a lot of sickly pretty color combinations in wallpaper-inspired brocade and patchwork fabrications. The shoes, which ranged from lettered sneakers and great snake slingbacks to slides with eyes and glitterball mid-heel sandals, were excellent. And, of course, the handbags. Like the clothes, they were an ironic play on the outskirts of naffness: Totes featured a fabulously serious-looking cat and a brace of budgies. Another in blue shag pile had Cookie Monster eyes. There were quite a few bags with faux–sofa stud dimples or reimagined as soft cushions. It was all good fun—Dot Cotton does Miu Miu—and at the end, Hindmarch threw in that holy grail of suburban life: a loft extension. The roof was raised and from it dangled an enormous glitterball. You don’t get that in Zone 5.
|
Luke Leitch
|
September 17, 2017
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/59be4526b943c74f7b6900d7/master/w_1280,c_limit/_ANY0011.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2018
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Anya Hindmarch
|
fall-2017-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/anya-hindmarch
|
The set of this season’s Anya Hindmarch show was built upon the collection’s central motif of kurbits, a Swedish folk art style, whose symmetrical two-dimensional fronds and florals featured on bags and outerwear. We were heading north, bound for a mountain hewn from vectors of plywood. From high on the summit glowed a faintly mystical triangular orange portal—thevetrValgrind to Anya’s handbag Asgard.Hindmarch’s hygge-and-hot Scandi sirens scaled and descended the hairpin runway in high shiny bloomers and Nordic knits or pastel cable-knit romper suits. Over these was outerwear in felt and wool—often paneled with grids of shearling—with shearling collars and kurbits motifs in cut leather panels. Below, clog mules with Gucci-esque shearling inner soles represented a foot flexing challenge on descent. On high, white shearling headpieces and Cutler and Gross’s pastel-strapped spectacles emanated analog mountaineer.Bags were garlanded with leather paper chains, dragonflies, and leaves. There were modular handbags and handbags that looked like an assemblage of six or seven purses (with six or seven zippers to match). Hindmarch’s excellent smiley backpack reappeared in a golden lurex finish. There were sliders and bags with furry eyes staring back at you. Like the Norse folklore Hindmarch’s notes said she’d been thinking about, not every story on this mountain felt especially new. Yet Hindmarch—who appeared at the end to wave down from her mountaintop—told them well.
|
Luke Leitch
|
February 19, 2017
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/58a9715f7d97ec5782e5548a/master/w_1280,c_limit/_LLL9250.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2017
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Anya Hindmarch
|
spring-2017-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/anya-hindmarch
|
“It’s all about beautiful maths,” said Anya Hindmarch this morning in advance of her Spring runway show. “I’m horrible at math, but as an art form, that’s what I care about.” Circular geometries, leveled planes, burrowing nautili, and floating discs all informed the designer’s thinking. The inherently clinical property of mathematics may surprise some—after all, Hindmarch is beloved for Pop-fun shtick (this is a woman who has created fur versions of sunny-side up eggs)—but the balance of left-brain logic and right-brain creativity was nevertheless engaging.“It started with the power of the circle,” she said, “It’s a rather spiritual sort of shape.” A platform, lit in James Turrell-like saturations, lifted to expose a spiraling pit, from and around which models rose and lapped. Hindmarch called out coats—she’s producing clothing now, and the “summer neoprene” outerwear was a big focus in today’s case—many with trendy cut-out shoulders, and all featuring leather pieces that formed banded pattern strips (around the lining of a deep pocket; arcing over the shoulder; shooting down the sleeve). “Those accents are made without stitching,” she said, “It’s a traditional technique, actually—they're held together by heat pressing.”But as is her forte, Hindmarch’s accessories were the solution to her equation. She may not be strong at math, but she’s damn good at dreaming up handbags. The designer proposed a new shape, dubbed The Stack, with multiple compartments that were color-coded in an ombré scheme. Stack styles will come with a handle on both sides of the body, so they can be flipped as needed. Additionally, more of those leather shape-bands were also applied to neat fold over top handles and “Barrel” duffels, some of which were rendered in glitter. Fans of Hindmarch’s novelty won’t be left scratching their heads, either—see fur smiley face shower slides, emoji-smattered high-top sneakers, and little fur keychains of cherries and rainbows.
|
Nick Remsen
|
September 18, 2016
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/57de61837af31fbd543549fa/master/w_1280,c_limit/_ARC0029.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2017
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Anya Hindmarch
|
fall-2016-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/anya-hindmarch
|
You never quite know whatAnya Hindmarchis going to pull out of her bag of tricks next. Merry-go-rounds and flying teacup rides have been part of her presentations in the past, and today the set for her show was made to look like the inside of a video arcade machine. With her quirky English sensibilities, Hindmarch was among the first to jump on the emoticon trend, and her popular smiley face tote was rendered in green calf hair for Fall 2016.The most dominant icons in her play box this time around were throwbacks to a time before social media and SMS messaging, specifically the characters of 1980s video games such as
Pac-Man and Space Invaders. The pixelated blue and yellow creatures were blown up big across the flaps of utilitarian satchels—though they appeared more charming when they were scaled true to size, as the dinky locks on structured lady bags or embellished patches along the straps of messenger bags.That discreet use of computerized witticisms felt most effective across the board, like the googly eyes on the back of a pair of black Chelsea boots or the fuzzy Rubik’s Cube key chains. Hindmarch has started to produce some of the clothes in her shows now, too, and the statement coats with fried egg–shaped fur patches for pockets were obvious street style catnip. As with her accessories, it was the subtler inside jokes that worked best on the outerwear, however, and the black coat with asymmetric racing stripes that opened the show had a winning streak.
|
Chioma Nnadi
|
February 21, 2016
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/56c99c53a20a782629c3c0a9/master/w_1280,c_limit/_ARC0013.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2016
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Anya Hindmarch
|
spring-2016-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/anya-hindmarch
|
Anya Hindmarchlikes to pack her shows full of very English fun and games: She has been known to build magic teacup rides into her runways, and once bussed in a full chorus of male choir singers dressed as road workers for her traffic-themed presentation. Hindmarch’s fondness for all things British led her to the high street this season, and she incorporated the branding of some of the U.K.’s best-loved stores into her tongue-in-cheek designs.If you grew up in London in the ‘80s, you might have recognized the saying emblazoned across a tote bag that read “Never Knowingly Undersold” as the tagline for the famed department store John Lewis. A pair of leather knee-highs was cleverly stamped with the logo for Boots, England’s answer to Duane Reade. Hindmarch showed that those cultural witticisms could be used in subtler ways, too, and the letters WHS (short for WHSmith, the popular British newsagent and stationery store) were repeated in a cool graphic pattern, which made for an unexpected take on logomania.The humor in those everyday references will likely be lost on Anya Hindmarch fans outside of British borders, though. Still, the designer didn’t lose the smiley faces from her handbags altogether. The bite-sized additions to the collection, like mini soda-can key ring purses, will surely tickle the fancy of accessories fanatics the world over.
|
Chioma Nnadi
|
September 22, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/560136424188461f38f7f93a/master/w_1280,c_limit/_ARC0005.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2016
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Aouadi
|
fall-2016-couture
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-couture/aouadi
|
Yacine Aouadi found the starting point for his third couture collection in the Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba, Spain. It’s a World Heritage Site that over the centuries has been a place of worship for Muslims and Christians. Aouadi liked the optics of the building, both metaphorically—“It’s a good message of peace,” he said—and literally. Symbols of both religions mingled on his 13 looks, as did references to medieval dress, the era that the house of worship dates from. Take, for instance, the fitted tunic-length tee cut from sheared lamb’s fur that Aouadi likened to a knight’s armor. Vaguely Moorish mosaiclike embroideries decorated a panne velvet sheath, and the palette was long on cardinal red and papal purple.The faithfulness of his interpretation of Cordoue, as Cordoba is known in France, will of course mean very little to potential clients. What presumably counts for couture customers is craftsmanship and the quality of the made-to-order experience. The good news is that the embroideries and other handwork here looked very well done. Delicate Lesage embroidery spelling out Aouadi’s initials on a green shorts suit was impressive, even if the look itself was a tad unlikely. Couture shorts? An ultra-fitted all-in-one that extended just south of the knees seemed similarly dubious, but its jet beadwork was faultless.In these early days of Aouadi’s business, it would seem wise to focus on the special-occasion pieces that women are willing to spend big on, and the kinds of things that might get borrowed by a celebrity whose star power would raise awareness of the brand. In that category, a purple velvet camisole and skirt stitched from hundreds of fabric discs to resemble fish scales looked a little close to the work ofGivenchy’sRiccardo Tisci, but was striking nonetheless.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
July 6, 2016
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/57c8336ed47fd36874a08f21/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-aouadi-2017.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2016
|
couture
|
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] |
|
Aouadi
|
spring-2016-couture
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-couture/aouadi
|
Yacine Aouadi’s couture installation today was just across the street fromChanel’s Grand Palais spectacle. It was an easy trip for time-strapped showgoers, but you could say there was a more pointed reason for the proximity. The 35-year-old couture upstart admitted that he would one day like to hold the keys to the Chanel maison. Well, him and just about every other designer in town. And sinceKarl Lagerfeldseems in no rush to leave, it’s wise to focus not on Aouadi’s ambitions here but rather on his talent, which is promising.Cate Blanchettand her stylist, Elizabeth Stewart, spotted it last season after his debut, and Aouadi custom-designed one of his tattoo-sleeved dresses for the actress. “Nobody knows this,” he said, “but her children’s initials were embroidered on the sleeves.”There was no shortage of impressive handwork in his new 13-piece collection. Snakes, flamingos, and storks performed courtship dances in feather embroidery by Lemarié. The bib of a sleeveless suede dress was densely encrusted with beads and crystals, its skirts bisected with thick chevrons of bugle beads. Another dress was trimmed with 700 buttons, each and every one of them functional. On still other pieces, lace was embellished with silicone for a modern look. Modernity is a key to Aouadi’s potential. His slim, relatively straightforward silhouettes have none of the fustiness of those of some couturiers. In this regard, he takes afterGivenchy’sRiccardo Tisci. In fact, Aouadi name-checked Tisci fanRooney Maraas the muse behind a look that featured lace board shorts. That ensemble was a bit on the trifling side. Still, it won’t be long before Mara or a different hot young thing lays claim to other pieces in Aouadi’s lineup.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
January 26, 2016
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/56a7a436824811850ec762bb/master/w_1280,c_limit/aouadi-spring-couture-201601.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2016
|
couture
|
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] |
|
Apartamento 03
|
sao-paolo-spring-2017
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/sao-paolo-spring-2017/apartamento-03
|
Founder: Luiz CláudioYear established: 2006Known for: Handcrafted pieces with a low-key appealStocked at: Brazilian boutiques
| null |
April 28, 2016
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/571eff1e6ff5c2851ed58a64/master/w_1280,c_limit/Apartamento11016.jpg"
] |
sao-paolo
|
spring
|
2017
|
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]
] |
|
Apartamento 03
|
sao-paulo-fall-2016
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/sao-paulo-fall-2016/apartamento-03
|
Founder: Luiz CláudioYear established: 2006Known for: Modern womenswear with an emphasis on handmade craftsmanship and expensive materialsStocked at: Boutique in Belo Horizonte, Brazil
| null |
October 22, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5628565a6cbcc66c3a64be0d/master/w_1280,c_limit/_A2X0773.jpg"
] |
sao-paulo
|
fall
|
2016
|
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] |
|
Apartamento 03
|
sao-paulo-spring-2015
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/sao-paulo-spring-2015/apartamento-03
|
Founder: Luiz CláudioYear established: 2006Known for: Modern womenswear with an emphasis on handmade craftsmanship and expensive materialsStocked at: Boutique in Belo Horizonte, Brazil
|
style.com
|
April 17, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650b708298d8be214e7ee/master/w_1280,c_limit/_AG20328.jpg"
] |
sao-paulo
|
spring
|
2015
|
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] |
|
Apiece Apart
|
fall-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-ready-to-wear/apiece-apart
|
For fall, Apiece Apart designers Starr Hout and Laura Cramer looked to the streets of New York City for inspiration. The duo drew from the shapes and colors being worn by the women around their studio, finding creativity in their effortless silhouettes and sleek mix-and-matching. “What we love is seeing our clothes in the wild,” said Cramer. “If we can’t visualize it on the streets and on the women of New York, it doesn’t make any sense to us.”Modern wardrobe staples are what Apiece Apart is built on. Rather than reinventing the wheel every season, Cramer and Hout focus on updating their core silhouettes—a great wool coat, a perfect barrel-shape jean—and offering them in new treatments. This season, the earthy color palette—infused with pops of moss, merlot, blacks, and denims—was inspired by a recent Cecily Brown show at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. “She’s one of our strong female muses,” said Hout. You could see that color play on looks like the cherry-red crewneck sweater paired with khaki-brown tapered trousers, or the billowy maxi dresses in tri-toned floral prints.The designers also focused on pieces that can be worn more ways than one. The buttoned-up cardigan, for instance, was styled asymmetrically and off-kilter—like a cozy shrug, which can be dressed up for night with a loose black dress pant. Ditto for the extra-long beige sweater, which can be worn as a dress and layered over a chic pair of cigarette pants. “We’re always thinking of ways that you can stretch our clothing to have it go from nine a.m. to nine p.m.,” said Hout, “playing on the tension between new shapes, ideas, and proportions.” The result is clothes that you can truly live in—the type of investment pieces where you can roll out of bed, still look put-together, and nobody would be any wiser.
|
Christian Allaire
|
December 17, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/66d037aa24180f7529a53453/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-apiece-apart-fall-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Apiece Apart
|
spring-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/apiece-apart
|
Apiece Apart’s Starr Hout and Laura Cramer looked inward to see what newness they could infuse into their line of easy, wearable separates for spring. “This was a season of grounding and expansion,” said Hout. “We did a lot of neutrals and really pushed the constructions forward, playing with pushing shapes and doing a lot of in-studio draping on our wrap dresses and skirts.”Though at first glance their modern collection of wardrobe staples seemed like business as usual, there were fresh attempts at elevating their versatile assortment. They updated their suiting, for one, in rich corduroys and linens, and they envision their three-piece suit, in off-white linen, being worn as separates. Jackets like the Acacia overcoat have an interesting cocoon-like shape. “Developing our jacket language has been really important to us,” said Cramer. Kinetic knits—in lime or chartreuse—offer a pop of color to an otherwise quiet lineup. “We see colors as medicine,” said Houtt.The designers also thought about new ways that their hero pieces can be styled and mixed and matched. A timeless striped shirtdress was worn as a top, with trousers underneath. “We’ve been working on different ways of accentuating the female form,” said Hout. This was balanced against more mens-y pieces, like a techy cropped bomber jacket that felt like new territory. They also expanded on their recently launched denim, showing a pair of their signature twisted-seam jeans in summer-ready white.A large assortment of breezy maxidresses, in florals or geo prints, were designed with beachy vacations in mind, as were the lace-crochet tops and maxiskirts. “They’re packable and wearable,” said Cramer. “You can get off the plane and still look great.”
|
Christian Allaire
|
October 17, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/650db6f86d15fd86ac8d58ea/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-apiece-apart-spring-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Apiece Apart
|
fall-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/apiece-apart
|
Every season, Apiece Apart designers Starr Hout and Laura Cramer center their assortment of easy, wearable separates around a broader spirit or mood. For fall, they were feeling inspired by the idea of being grounded in nature—brought to life via cozy, earthy separates that could be easily paired with one another. “We were inspired by this connotation of nature and design—that design can cohabitate with Mother Earth,” says Hout. “We think that’s where modern design comes from.”The natural focus for fall is appropriate, given that their collections are centered in sustainable practices. The leading launch of the season, for one, is their big foray into eco-friendly denim; three new jean styles made of regenerative cotton, ranging in fit from baggy to tapered with a twisted seam. “We’re working with the cleanest denim factory in the world, [Saitex,]” says Cramer. “They recycle 98 percent of the water that they use. All of our pieces just came to life with denim in the mix—it got really cool and relaxed.”Elsewhere in the line, there was an emphasis on fall staples that can be dressed up or down. Loose tailoring looked crisp and clean, especially the ’70s-style corduroy suits. Their classic topcoat can be paired with just about anything. “It’s really easy to wear throughout the winter, layered up in all sorts of ways,” says Hout. There were also sustainable approaches to the outerwear; the oversized bomber jackets are made of organic cotton and recycled nylon, while their fuzzy shearling coats are made of recycled polyester—and feel like the real deal.Their dressier evening pieces, meanwhile, were designed with ease and practicality in mind—for the girl on the go. Their pretty floral dresses were made of a soft Habitat silk. “We always think of what makes a print something that you’d wear the hell out of,” says Hout. A black "Palisade" skirt featured subtle, but beautiful, pleating work along the front, while macrame lace dresses veered into sexier territory. “We’ve been playing with the idea of sheerness and body positivity,” says Hout. “You can wear it with a bodysuit underneath—or nothing!”
|
Christian Allaire
|
September 6, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/64f87943eec8c825300e0830/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-apiece-apart-fall-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Apiece Apart
|
resort-2024
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2024/apiece-apart
|
Practicalitymay not be a sexy word in fashion, but for resort—which needs to encapsulate cold-weather, holiday, and vacation dressing—Apiece Apart designers Starr Hout and Laura Cramer had pragmatism on the mind. “What really gets us going is a modern, mix-and-match support system,” said Hout. “A bed of neutrals was super-important to us—with hits of color.” Instead of avant-garde silhouettes or out-of-this-world concepts, they focused on subtle flourishes. “We did a lot of discovery around different fabrics that would elevate everyday basics,” said Cramer.An easy, wearable sensibility is always present here. For resort, the emphasis was on refined separates that could transition from day to night, including the pretty floral sundresses inspired by the Argentinian artist Patricia Iglesias Peco’s paintings. The knit sweaters were soft and extremely lightweight—as were the hand-washed Habitat button-up shirts, in hues like teal. “We played with a bright insurgence of color,” said Hout. There was also crisp suiting, made of textured, durable nubby fabric. “The hope is you keep wearing it again and again,” she said.The duo also looked at sustainable innovation for resort. Particularly, they ramped up their assortment of sustainable denim pieces, with three different cuts of jeans made of organic and regenerative cotton. “People email us all the time and say, ‘I’m trying to track this one pair of jeans down on resale sites,'’’ said Cramer. They were produced at Saitex, a sustainable factory in L.A. “It’s amazing,” said the designer. “They have a closed loop water system, and it recycles 98 percent of the water used in production.” Also innovative were the breezy maxi dresses made of silk that’s harvested from the wild. Farm to table? More like farm-to-fashion.
|
Christian Allaire
|
June 16, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/648b5cccacfa124b1614a652/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-apiece-apart-resort-2024-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2024
|
[
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] |
||
Apiece Apart
|
pre-fall-2023
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2023/apiece-apart
|
“Stealth wealth” may be all the rage in fashion currently, but for pre-fall, Apiece Apart designers Laura Cramer and Starr Hout were feeling both bold and colorful. “It’s the first time we’ve really done daring brights,” said Hout, pointing to one of her delicious, hand-washed habitai shirts in an eye-popping fuchsia.It’s not the only uplifting hue in the duo’s new collection. From robin’s egg blue to key lime green, the pair experimented with incorporating sugary shades into their assortment of easy, wearable pieces. Turns out, the color palette had much to do with one of their seasonal inspirations: the work of Cuban-American artist Jorge Pardo. “He does a lot of tile juxtapositions, in really bright colors,” said Hout. “It felt so right; we love the idea of colors as medicine.”A recent trip to Mexico City also played a part in their new collection’s upbeat feel. “We’re always drawn to brutalist forms in a feminine color, and those two things really come together in Mexico City,” said Cramer. It resulted in pieces like a sharp-shaped lilac sundress, cinched with a wrap-tied waist. “We wanted to make her feel like she’s in a sarong, but she can walk in the city streets in it,” said Hout. A striped crochet tank dress, meanwhile, felt Ibiza-ready.Summer suiting also made a cameo: Blazers were done in timeless cream or terracotta, in a lightweight linen-cotton blend. “Summer suiting is something we really believe in,” said Hout. “Our women want it, and it’s selling out over and over again.” They also offered classic LBDs, like a strapless linen version settled overtop a classic white tee. “We love a black dress in the heat,” she added. That one’s for the New Yorkers.
|
Christian Allaire
|
June 7, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/647f801fc3f3685756851116/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-apiece-apart-prefall-2023-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
pre-fall
|
2023
|
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||
Apiece Apart
|
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/apiece-apart
|
Florals? For spring? Turns out, theycanbe groundbreaking—at least, that’s what Apiece Apart designers Laura Cramer and Starr Hout felt this season. The duo’s main inspiration revolved around finding beauty in wildflowers; Hout had stumbled upon images of the author Tove Jahnson’s home on the island of Klovharu, Finland, surrounded by such various blooms. They were drawn to their sprightly colors, and the idea of “fresh beginnings.”As is often the case with Apiece Apart, Hout and Cramer narrowed in an easy, wearable collection of separates to carry out their inspiration. “There’s a lot of petal shapes [in the line],” said Hout, and they came through in pieces like the white, off-the-shoulder crop top with a slightly ruffled hem. “We were thinking of big peony petals,” Hout explained. There were also softer, whimsical floral prints on the summer dresses—including sleek tank shapes, or more billowy off-the-shoulder maxi styles. Hout added, “There’s always a soulfulness when it comes to our prints.”While the silhouettes were kept clean and largely uncomplicated, the proposal was that bright hues, florals, and stripes can be treated as a neutral—and even mix-and-matched. A striped-two piece set, made up of a sleeveless button-up shirt and billowy wide-leg pants, felt surprisingly subdued and easy to wear. Soft teal or bubblegum pink sweaters could be easily worn with jeans or with dress pants.Cramer and Hout also ventured into some newer, sexier territory this season. They added peek-a-boo cutouts onto some of the dresses, and experimented with more cropped silhouettes that revealed the body underneath. “We’re getting much more skin-focused,” says Hout. For spring, the pair also reintroduced suiting, like a classic and slouchy single-breasted blazer. While everyday dresses will always be their bread and butter, the pair are looking forward to ramping up their tailoring assortment. “There was a moment [in fashion] when pretty was ruling,” says Cramer. “But now [women] want to look strong.”
|
Christian Allaire
|
February 1, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/63d7e6415f5efe969434e59a/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-apiece-apart-spring-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Apiece Apart
|
resort-2023
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2023/apiece-apart
|
Every resort season, Apiece Apart’s Laura Cramer and Starr Hout say they view designing their assortment of easy, wearable pieces as a new “fashion challenge.” The task at hand? To create clothes that can not only work for the holidays, but also pieces that can be sported on vacation, or transition into the spring. “Our mantra is clothes you can wear at least once a week,” says Hout. “So it’s a good design challenge: What are clothes that you can wear during this time, but also in the spring-summer?” The focus, then, was not on innovating, but rather on creating hero items for any and every occasion.The new collection includes both cold- and warm-weather staples. Inspired by a poll in which they asked friends and family what they enjoy wearing in November and December, they emphasized knitwear. A wool turtleneck, in a subtle waffle-stitch finish, was hefty without being too scratchy. They also experimented with autumnal separates like a washed chino jacket with oversized pockets, hunter-green leather pants, and new colors of their best-selling Meridian pant—which has a high-waisted, slight barrel shape to it—in a fresh, rusty red.For the vacation wear, Cramer and Hout used more upbeat colors like zingy oranges and blues, and lightened up the fabrications. There were breezy, oversized striped shirts, and a cotton robe with two-toned stripes, but the standouts were the lightwear tops, skirts, and dresses with smocking; a long, sleeveless smock shift dress even had a graphic shibori print all over it. “It’s insanely packable,” said Cramer.
|
Christian Allaire
|
November 10, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/636d2d29b6c44685fa73a06d/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-apiece-apart-resort-2023-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2023
|
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||
Apiece Apart
|
fall-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/apiece-apart
|
With Starr Hout now based in upstate New York and Laura Cramer in Austin, the Apiece Apart duo found themselves grappling with two very different surroundings and climates—and they wanted to craft a collection that reflects their different wardrobe needs. “As designers, we have to really think about different geographies now,” said Hout, with Cramer adding, “It’s been a big boon for our design process.”Hout also recently took a trip to Copenhagen, and the city’s vibrant street style scene inspired experiments with punchy colors. The results include cozy knits in sprightly turquoises or baggy trousers in a darker redwood hue. For their assortment of basics, they enjoyed the idea of juxtaposing unlikely shapes and shades together, just like the Danes do. “We brought together concepts of hard and soft, masculine and feminine,” said Cramer.All of the pieces are built for function and versatility. A herringbone wool jacket, for instance, can be worn three ways: solo as a bomber, detached as a vest, or fastened together for more of a layered look. A gray knit turtleneck poncho is also multipurpose: It can be worn loose over the body or with the hem wrapped around the neck like a scarf. They say this pragmatic approach stems from their own busy lives. “Being moms, we need a wardrobe of simple pieces that truly work—but it doesn’t have to be boring,” said Hout.With sustainability always a focus, the duo said that 99% of the collection was made using natural, organic, or recycled fabrics. A chic drape skirt in cream, for instance, was constructed using a fiber made of biodegradable cellulose. Some of their signatures, like cotton-poplin smock dresses and gauzy cutout dresses, returned. They also modernized pants, their best-selling item; a slouchy cotton-linen trouser felt of the moment, as did the green leather pants with a tapered bottom. “We wanted to create a foundation of design that really truly supports women’s lives so she can go anywhere and do anything,” said Hout. “Pieces that she can wear the hell out of.”
|
Christian Allaire
|
February 10, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/62028fb634510d5e80d2d189/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Apiece-Apart-Fall-2022-RTW-Credit-Brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2022
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Apiece Apart
|
pre-fall-2022
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2022/apiece-apart
|
For pre-fall, Starr Hout and Laura Cramer’s usual book of “gestures,” or inspiring photos and phrases, was filled with snaps of Al Boeke’s modern architecture at Sea Ranch. Built into the cliffs and surrounded by wild grasses in Sonoma County, California, the project was an experiment in building a community-oriented neighborhood that works with nature, not against it. Or as Hout and Cramer put it, “Living light on the land.” They kept the philosophy in mind when they designed this collection’s airy crocheted knits, smocked skirts, and featherlight maxidresses—clothes that help you feel “healthy, vibrant, soft, and strong.”The organic fabrics and soft palette were one part of that equation, but it’s Apiece Apart’s woman-friendly details that often make the difference between a regular dress and a cherished go-to. A few dresses were smocked snugly at the bust so women of many sizes can go braless (key on humid days!), while jewel-toned linen separates came with new, ballooning sleeves to roll up or not. Silhouette-wise, Hout and Cramer are pushing for the giant-skirt/tiny-top balance: In jet black, a full cotton maxi and ribbed-knit ballet top could go super casual or cocktail-worthy depending on the accessories.
|
Emily Farra
|
December 9, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/61b791dbd7dd9bdc1b4eaad4/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Apieceapart-Pre-Fall-22-New%20York-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
pre-fall
|
2022
|
[
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] |
||
Apiece Apart
|
resort-2022
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2022/apiece-apart
|
Starr Hout and Laura Cramer were only half-joking when they said they designed their resort 2022 prints to hide stains. The compact florals and muted ginghams on the smocked dresses, caftans, and drawstring shorts would, in fact, camouflage a coffee drip, a spilled kid’s snack, or any number of inadvertent spots or marks. Hout and Cramer aren’t in the business of head-to-toe ivory silks and fussy, dry-clean-only “day dresses”; they need clothes that work as hard as they do, without sacrificing femininity or softness.Resort’s palette of creams, browns, and taupes against rich emerald and cerulean translated the feeling they’re after at the moment: free, calm, untethered. In their packet of inspiration notes and photos, they used the wordsearthy,grounding, andsoulful. As always, their focus was less on reinventing the wheel and increasingly on making pieces that nail a tricky balance: easy to wear, yet interesting, with both keep-forever longevity and can’t-wait-to-wear-it-now details.The smocked-waist dresses—which hugged curves more than your typical Apiece Apart frock—hit the mark, ditto the utility jackets with oversized pockets and matching trousers. Other looks resonated simply for their canny color mixes: a seafoam sweatshirt with chocolate twill pants, or an emerald T-shirt with cornflower pants. They subtly communicated Hout and Cramer’s own obsession with styling: How many ways can you make a pant feel exciting? Right now, their answer is with color-blocking and tonal dressing, a happily simple approach during a frenetic time of year.
|
Emily Farra
|
November 23, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6140dd2bc13e494198a6b3f5/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Apiece-Apart-Resort-22-New-York-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2022
|
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] |
||
Aquascutum
|
fall-2012-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2012-ready-to-wear/aquascutum
|
One of the advantages of heritage companies is they tend to have snappy slogans to inspire incoming creative directors. For her third collection at the house, Joanna Sykes was particularly taken with Aquascutum's "Dressing the Powerful." That used to mean kings, generals, politicians, but what Sykes had in mind was, she said, "a Tarantino woman, dark, provocative, dangerous."With a new Italian manufacturing deal in place, Sykes claimed she was now free to focus on design. The immediate impression of her new collection was structure, emphasized by cagelike, almost bondage straps running round hems, or angular architectural details like the patent stripes on an oxblood leather coat, or the zippers that streamlined outerwear closings. Bonded fabrics added substance. The tailored silhouette echoed the military precision of Aquascutum's past, in a gray officer's coat or olive jacket cropped over matching pants and a snowy-white poplin shirt.Where the danger lay with this woman was anyone's guess, but maybe Sykes meant that the whimsy she initially brought to Aquascutum has been shelved in favor of a sleek, sexy hard edge. Any woman willing to don the low-slung pants with the cutout top is guaranteed to kick ass.
|
Tim Blanks
|
February 17, 2012
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650e408298d8be217da22/master/w_1280,c_limit/00010fullscreen.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2012
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Aquascutum
|
spring-2012-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2012-ready-to-wear/aquascutum
|
In fashion, context counts in large amounts. For today's Aquascutum show, Joanna Sykes surrounded herself with a supercool crew: Vanessa Reid styling, Lucia Pieroni and Paul Hanlon on makeup and hair, the universally adored Dan Lywood and Ben Bridgewater on the decks. Not a bad way to make a break with a past that, as Sykes said, was all about menswear. By way of contrast, she claimed she wanted to do something "extremely precious and fragile, feminine and delicate." Funny, then, that the show partially played out as a fetching debate on the boy/girl thing that constantly ebbs and flows around fashion. So a dramatically slit column in dandelion yellow georgette followed a tweedy pantsuit that wouldn't look amiss on Oliver Twist. And the same tweed made a biker that preceded a black satin-and-lace lingerie jumpsuit.With this collection, Sykes followed Stella, Phoebe, and Hannah to become the latest example of a special London phenom: designing women who match form to function in an instinctive, sensual, real way. You can tell by the generous way all of them cut a pair of women's trousers. Sykes referred to Aquascutum's 150 years of masculine heritage with a tailcoat (paired with pedal pushers), because, she said, she liked the fact the item was originally designed with a purpose. For the same reason, she laminated her silk georgette, because "that took something delicate and made it functional."
|
Tim Blanks
|
September 19, 2011
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650cd08298d8be21660a9/master/w_1280,c_limit/00010fullscreen.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2012
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Aquascutum
|
fall-2011-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2011-ready-to-wear/aquascutum
|
Joanna Sykes' womenswear debut for Aquascutum was called English Icons, in reference to the label's long and illustrious outerwear history. Like Clare Waight Keller at Pringle of Scotland, another company dense with heritage, Sykes opted for a little light iconoclasm as her way in. She touched the classic bases—trenchcoat, field jacket, peacoat—but she toyed with proportion, layered things oddly, deconstructed, reconstructed. The collection had a slouchy, loose, tacked-together quality, like Sykes' argyle, which wasn't much more than a few squares of fabric loosely engaged with one another. Or a silk smock, whose pattern might have been a very abstract take on an Art Deco motif, which was peculiarly paired with a bonded leather gilet. A herringbone coat had a puffer shrug attached; the combination of the ultra-classic and hyper-sporty could be shaping up as Sykes' signature contribution to the collection. But she's going to have to turn down the volume. There were droop and bulk when there should have been snap and litheness. Still, that's what opening nights are for.
|
Tim Blanks
|
February 21, 2011
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c651b308298d8be2268272/master/w_1280,c_limit/00010fullscreen.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2011
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
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