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Stephen Burrows
|
fall-2010-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2010-ready-to-wear/stephen-burrows
|
You can't fault Stephen Burrows for doing things his own way. The man is, after all, a CFDA Lifetime Achievement Award winner, and he's been turning out bright, joyous party looks since most of his competitors were in diapers. With his latest effort, an intimate presentation at his Garment District showroom, Burrows once again proved he can do more than just cut a great jersey dress."I looked at Gustav Klimt and Tiffany lamps," the designer said of his mood for Fall. Some of the signature jersey dresses featured abstract prints evocative of his colorful inspirations, but it was a solid maroon gown at the end that garnered the loudest cheers. It's true that the jersey numbers, timeless as they are, didn't necessarily scream, "Now, now, now!"—but the daywear showed a vital connection with current trends. Among the silhouettes we've seen in play elsewhere this week were an ultrawide-leg wool trouser, paired with a chunky cable sweater and fur vest, and a great black biker jacket with exaggerated shoulders, worn with skinny leather motocross leggings.If it was tough to trace the connection between all the pieces shown, the crowd of well-wishers shouting "Bravo!" after each exit obviously didn't mind. They came to a Burrows show to see Burrows clothes, not trend for trend's sake.
|
Romney Leader
|
February 17, 2010
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c651ba08298d8be226e7a2/master/w_1280,c_limit/00010fullscreen.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2010
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Stephen Burrows
|
spring-2010-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2010-ready-to-wear/stephen-burrows
|
"Fall was about money and employment; Spring is about relaxation after all the stress," said Stephen Burrows prior to his intimate showing. Burrows certainly seemed at ease in his talent, working with lightweight fabrics and fine mesh inserts (as on a fit-and-flare dress in inky black that exposed peeks of a red underskirt). The idea, the designer said, was to create the sense of beachy calm that being near the ocean instills.In this context, Burrows' famous lettuce-edge technique (which showed up at Marc Jacobs, too, this Spring) took on the aspect of seaweed, sequins became the glint of sun on surf, and a jagged-hem minidress looked like it had been mangled in the jaws of a ferocious shark (albeit one with a superior sense of silhouette). If it was difficult to connect the dots between the color-blocked pieces that opened the show and the sequined ones that closed it, the collection's standouts were easy to spot. A crisp white ensemble with a twisted-lapel top was as sharp as a sail, and a black and seafoam jersey combo—worn by house "mascot" Anna Cleveland—swelled and draped with the liquid motion of the tide.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
September 16, 2009
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c651a908298d8be225c6d8/master/w_1280,c_limit/00010fullscreen.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2010
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Stephen Burrows
|
fall-2009-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/stephen-burrows
|
There were pinstripes aplenty in Stephen Burrows' Fall collection, titled "Bankable Burrows." "This is a time about money," the designer explained after the show. "I want to make beautiful clothes at an affordable price that look good inside and out." A bicolored, double-faced wool cape coat certainly looked like a solid investment piece, as did a sweeping camel topper that concealed a microscopic silver-beaded nude jersey dress. Also upping the sex quotient were leopard boots by Christian Louboutin and jewelry by Robert Lee Morris. "Burrows' main appeal will always be that he likes the female form," said his model friend Alva Chinn, seated front-row. "There's always comfort and ease." Those qualities should be important to the boutique buyers who are Burrows' main accounts, and whose support will be more crucial than ever in this environment.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
February 19, 2009
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c651a008298d8be225113b/master/w_1280,c_limit/00010fullscreen.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2009
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Stephen Burrows
|
spring-2009-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2009-ready-to-wear/stephen-burrows
|
There's been much talk about black models in the last few months, but little has been said about black designers. Stephen Burrows, probably America's most famous black designer—a three-time Coty Award winner, member of the Fashion Walk of Fame, and recipient of a CFDA Lifetime Achievement Award—didn't have as large an audience at his show today as he should have.In recent years, some of Burrows' collections have been justly criticized for being a bit mired in the past—specifically the seventies, the designer's disco heyday. But this collection, titled "Afro Summer," was his best and most forward-looking in a long time. Asked about the title—and the invitation, which came with an Afro pick—the designer said that he wasn't making a political statement so much as an artistic one: He equated the "naturalness" of unstraightened black hair with the natural cottons and silks he used. That's right: Burrows has broken out of his box, wholly abandoning his signature jersey for Resort and using little of it for Spring.Fluidity—what he calls a "feeling for softness"—is still at the core of the designer's work, but this time he sought it through "wovens." The focus was on a truly smart series of khaki pieces—including one dress with grommets and another in red with top-stitching and a crumb-catcher collar—that were quintessentially American, fresh, and wearable.One of the week's most convincing arguments for the harem pant came here, in a pair of culotte shorts in a brilliant floral print (paging Rihanna). And the finale gowns were simply stunning. Yasmin Warsame closed the show in a mermaid-tailed column with suspended sleeves—this one in jersey—that melded the best of Burrows past and Burrows present. A dress like that deserves its share of the limelight, and so does the man who designed it.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
September 11, 2008
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6519708298d8be2247365/master/w_1280,c_limit/00010fullscreen.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2009
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Stephen Burrows
|
resort-2009
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2009/stephen-burrows
|
How apt that Stephen Burrows decided to take a vacation from jersey, his signature fabric, for Resort. Instead, the designer showed a collection cut entirely in wovens and lace. Despite the shift, Burrows retained his easy silhouettes, using the soft give of elastic, for example, to control volume on an animal-print dress. He also introduced tailoring in jackets, as in a pale plum, petal-sleeved one that wrapped around the body. Embracing change chez Burrows is a good thing.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
June 22, 2008
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6519308298d8be2241db6/master/w_1280,c_limit/00010m.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2009
|
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] |
||
Steven Alan
|
fall-2017-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/steven-alan
|
Many designers will tell you that regardless of fashion’s current mood or trends, the ’70s will always be a main source of inspiration. A few years ago, the ’70s were the trend—every Vogue Runway slideshow felt like a steady stream of bell-bottoms, wide-collar shirts, and hippieish paisleys. But that decade also laid the groundwork for what we now consider to be American staples: cool jackets, button-downs, and lots of denim.In that vein, Steven Alan’s collections have always had a ’70s tilt—crisp but easy shirting is one of his signatures, along with jeans, jumpsuits, and a general tomboyish vibe. For Fall ’17, he added a little Patti Smith circa 1975 to the mix; he was particularly interested in the way she wore men’s shirts in her heyday. Alan’s button-downs came in deep wallpaper florals or plaids, and had a boxy, slightly oversize fit. Another silk blouse with a bow at the neck channeled Smith’s skinny scarf on the cover of herHorsesalbum. There were silk shirtdresses, too, and Alan transformed a striped pajama shirt into a full-on jumpsuit.Other highlights included crinkled, “permanent pleat” tops and dresses; heathered knits; and outsize coats with the rounded, slightly too-wide shoulders we saw on many Fall ’17 runways. Girls who aren’t into that XL look will gravitate toward Alan’s nubby fleece jackets, which looked destined for a trip to the Catskills.
|
Emily Farra
|
May 10, 2017
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/591309c55ffee605658e15ac/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-steven-alan-fall-17.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2017
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Steven Alan
|
spring-2017-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/steven-alan
|
America’s great. Sure, we’ve got our problems, but if you’ve ever had the chance to meditate on the waves lapping the rocks at Big Sur, or race a car down I-40 against the clouds rolling through the endless skies of the Southwest, or shrink before the sheer volume of the generators at Hoover Dam, then you’ve undoubtedly felt yourself in the grips of that Emersonian sense of America’s grandeur and possibility. This place is huge. And full of wonders. This season’s Steven Alan collection was intended as a wardrobe for road trippers moving through America’s West. The vibe was footloose.The theme was reflected both in the collection’s durability and its detail-driven intimacy. Alan’s go-to look was a jumpsuit, in a fabric with an unexpected hand, like cotton drill. Other throw-on pieces included breezy dresses and smock tops and lightweight sweaters boasting just the right mix of trimness and slouch. The little sweaters, knit in Peru, of a washed linen yarn were a soft-spoken highlight here; indeed, the fabrications deserved credit for much of the collection’s charm. There were also dozens of little details that gave these otherwise simple looks snap, like the bit of selvedge edging on a top, or folksy elements such as embroidery or smocking. You might think of Alan’s collection in terms of an Instagram feed of a trip: These were items made for the woman posting not selfies, but photos of the landscape she’s set out to explore.
|
Maya Singer
|
November 7, 2016
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5820ccf92d24fd1814c89a24/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-steven-alan-spring-2017.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2017
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Steven Alan
|
fall-2016-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/steven-alan
|
Steven Alanis a designer of the gradualist school, evolving the look of his growing brand piece by piece, detail by detail. His collections communicate a vibe, rather than articulating a concept. This season, however, Alan endeavored to wrap his arms around a clear theme: Inspired by the new Whitney Museum downtown, he latched onto the smudged palette typical of Abstract Expressionist painters and, by extension, riffed on their mid-century Greenwich Village–bohemian look. It wasn’t a daring concept, but it made for an easy fit with the Steven Alan vernacular. After all, Alan built his brand by appealing to city dwellers whose aesthetic is tinted by nostalgia for bygone urban bohemia. He’s in the process of cornering the market on the rumpled preppy look.This time out, the prep was dialed down to make way for artist-inspired smock shapes and garments that nodded at classic workwear, such as jumpsuits, cargo pants, and dungarees. There was a nice sense of proportion here—offbeat enough to be surprising, but nevertheless tuned to feminine curves—while the palette played a similar trick, evading expectation by trading in standard-issue autumn colors such as rust and burgundy for ones just a couple of ticks up or down the Pantone chart. Shoppers will also be won over by Alan’s choice selection of fabrics, the most special of which was a fuzzy wool plaid used in a cool, cropped pantsuit. If there was one standout item here, though, it had to be the shearling jacket with graphic black trim. That’s just the kind of durable, throw-on dud Helen Frankenthaler might have appreciated, back in the day. Women seeking to recapture her spirit will be happy to wear it over pretty much anything, now.
|
Maya Singer
|
February 10, 2016
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/56bb75533e5900c93b4d8721/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-steven-alan-womens-fw16.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2016
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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]
] |
|
Steven Alan
|
fall-2016-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-menswear/steven-alan
|
Jeans!Steven Alanhas dabbled in denim before now, but his latest menswear collection marked his first heartfelt foray into that hotly contested market. Alan’s denim came in natural blue and over-dyed and bleached so pale it almost—almost—looked acid-washed. And, as an added grace note for all the denim nerds out there, his relaxed jeans and boxy jackets were sourced, soup-to-nuts, from Japan. The Steven Alan clientele will be psyched. Alan knows his customer well.The new denim was part of a larger story here—one inspired by Alan’s visits to the new Whitney Museum downtown and his re-appreciation of Abstract Expressionist canvases and, by extension, the men who painted them. At an appointment today, Alan said that he wanted to make clothes “a guy could work all night in,” and with that in mind, he erred his collection toward shapes with a worn-in sense of ease and materials, such as the moleskin he used in shirt-cum-jackets, that could withstand a beating. Even Alan’s suiting looked like it could stand up to a spontaneous late-night painting sesh.The AbEx influence also reared its head in the collection’s smudged, Rothko-esque palette and in its nods to mid-century beatnik-itude. To wit, the sweatshirt with a turtleneck collar and Alan’s shrug-on (but nevertheless natty) overcoats. Alan wasn’t reinventing his aesthetic, but did give it a considerable twist by hinting hard at bygone downtown bohemia. Still, the great-looking denim was the real story here.
|
Maya Singer
|
February 10, 2016
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/56bb74f6a6de672c6b1aee6d/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-steven-alan-mens-fw16.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2016
|
menswear
|
[
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] |
|
Steven Alan
|
spring-2016-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-menswear/steven-alan
|
There's no mistaking Steven Alan for a conceptual designer. He makes commodity clothes, plain and simple. This season, though, Alan did tease a bit of concept: He was thinking about space, and about the uniforms people wear in space, and movies made about space travel, and so on. And so even though Alan's latest menswear collection was chockablock with staple pieces like the perfect pair of glossy twill black shorts, it also digressed into a few unexpected but appealing longueurs. Consider, for instance, Alan's mock-neck tee in white, redolent of the stuff worn by the astronauts in2001: A Space Odyssey, or his short-sleeve button-downs, with their signature trim Steven Alan silhouette, executed in fabrics such as a cartoon Martian head microprint. There was wit here. The emphasis, though, was on Alan's elevated basics—sometimes given a twist, in the case of a cropped-collar polo, or a T-shirt in cotton twill, and sometimes just finessed and re-finessed, as with Alan's soft-shouldered but not unstructured blazer, or his pieces in Japanese chambray and denim, or the super stripped-down bombers and anoraks. Not rocket science, this, but clothes your average rocket scientists—or your average cosmonaut, for that matter—would be delighted to wear.
|
Maya Singer
|
July 20, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c653fbc4e6a2d8dcdeed4c/master/w_1280,c_limit/steven-alan-001-1366.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2016
|
menswear
|
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] |
|
Steven Alan
|
fall-2015-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/steven-alan
|
Steven Alan has built a formidable business (more than 20 stores between the U.S. and Japan, and counting) on shirting. His vernacular of choice has long been chambrays and crisp cottons, but woman can't stock her closet with those alone. And so each season Alan and his in-house design team set out to fill in some of the ground not covered by the brands he stocks in his many shops.As with his Fall menswear outing, here the designer was thinking a lot about his new home, about furnishings (including a soft, earthy palette inspired by the Austrian ceramist Lucy Rie), and a sense of comfort with a touch of the homespun. To wit: wide-wale corduroys, featherweight merino rib-knits, and a plush faux-fur wrap and vest that bore a striking resemblance to a throw you might hunker down on the sofa with: Alan's takes would be equally suited to Netflix marathons or brunching at Jack's Wife Freda. Indeed, even the chicest pieces here felt as though you could nap in them—alpaca coats were lovely; a cream one-sleeved maxi sweater dress made for an idiosyncratic standout. These weren't clothes made to break molds, but they're the kind of simple, nicely priced, and subtly on-trend styles that have earned Alan a broad fan base—and should only serve to grow that fan base in the seasons to come.
|
Kristin Anderson
|
February 27, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c651db08298d8be2296072/master/w_1280,c_limit/Steven_Alan_01_1366.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2015
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Steven Alan
|
fall-2015-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-menswear/steven-alan
|
Steven Alan is very good at making it easy for guys to get dressed. His line covers all the bases—shirting (lots of it), suiting, knits, outerwear—and it's worth noting that the clothes are mostly made in New York. The collection changes almost imperceptibly season to season, but with a growing Japanese market and the increasing style IQ of men across the board, Alan is starting to figure out ways to make dressing interesting as well.The inspiration for Fall '15 was Alan's new house in Ditmas Park, Brooklyn. "Relaxing at home," he said in the studio during the lookbook shoot. "But it's not L.A. relaxed. This is New York relaxed." The highlights were still what he does best: shirting. Both the fabrics—super-soft twill, indigo-dyed corduroy, lightweight moleskin—and the construction—minimal field pockets, band collars, triple-needle stitching—are proof that he takes the shirt game seriously. After all, he built his business on it. But it's worth considering the rest of the line. Wide-leg pants in flannel and wide-wale corduroy, elongated sweaters, and lots of faux-fur accessories ("Probably from seeing my kids' stuffed animals all over the house," said the designer) were unexpected but welcome elements. Outwear was particularly compelling, especially the ballistic nylon parka, a neoprene and wool-blend overcoat, and a boiled wool trench. The icing here was a sneaker collaboration with a little-known Boston maker of bespoke marathon shoes called Victory, resulting in a beautifully imperfect pair of retro runners.
|
Noah Johnson
|
February 6, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c651d508298d8be228e1e2/master/w_1280,c_limit/Steven_Alan_001_1366.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2015
|
menswear
|
[
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]
] |
|
Steven Alan
|
spring-2015-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/steven-alan
|
As the song goes, "Let's start at the very beginning. A very good place to start." Celebrating his 20th anniversary, Steven Alan wanted to get back to his roots. And since the shirt is the ABC/"Do-Re-Mi" of his collection and business, it was the main focus of his Spring presentation.The first white short-sleeved shirtdress launched into all the different ways that idea could be developed, he said at the presentation: a cutout tank dress; a cocoon shell and easy skirt; an oversize tunic and loose pants with floral-embroidered hem. And even if the shirt wasn't present as an actual button-down, it was still referenced in the cotton shirting materials, which Alan tweaked with coating or a touch of spandex to naturally crinkle things. The silhouettes were relaxed and played with volume subtly, like a little knit tank worn over hyper-wide-leg pajama pants in a cool, gray-on-gray plaid.A woman in a man's shirt is the genesis of masculine-feminine, and often suggests the morning after. And so it goes that as laid-back as these silhouettes were, as humble the fabrics and as puritan some of the buttoned-all-the-way-up styling, there was a discreet sexiness at play.
|
Nandini D'Souza Wolfe
|
September 11, 2014
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c651c208298d8be2277120/master/w_1280,c_limit/Steven_Alan_01_1366.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2015
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Steven Alan
|
fall-2014-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2014-ready-to-wear/steven-alan
|
This year, Steven Alan is celebrating his twentieth anniversary in the business. And while Alan has moved from the cotton shirts that originally put his namesake brand on the map to a full-blown collection that includes ready-to-wear, home, eyewear, and shoes, the idea is still the same. Every piece is functional, devoid of bells and whistles or clutter. It's just that, now, Alan's tag can fill up an entire closet instead of an eighth of it.This season, the starting point was the work of realist painter Andrew Wyeth and his wife, Betsey, a frequent subject. Alan also thought about the women in his office piling on oversize sweaters and scarves in the depths of this cold New York City winter, and offered plenty of knits—many done in brushed alpaca for that lofty feeling a lot of designers have been going for this season. A men's gray sweater, for instance, was worn over a collarless shirtdress and cropped, skinny gray wool trousers. A charcoal wool midi skirt was layered under a soft sweater too, this one accented with thin gold bracelets on each wrist. (Jewelry is a new category for Alan, but like the rest of what he does, the delicate pieces complement but don't compete with the other brands he carries in his showroom and stores.) He also brought back the jumpsuit, done in a blue plaid flannel and looking as cozy as a pair of pajamas. The great thing about Steven Alan, and why he's been able to expand his retail footprint so quickly, is that his clothes feel like fashion but are accessible for those who find self-consciously cool labels pretentious. Many different women can be a Steven Alan girl, and this collection reflected that.
|
Lauren Sherman
|
February 12, 2014
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6513608298d8be21d88f6/master/w_1280,c_limit/Alan_001_1366.1366x2048.JPG"
] |
fall
|
2014
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Steven Alan
|
spring-2014-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2014-ready-to-wear/steven-alan
|
Steven Alan doesn't go in for concepts much. This season, per usual, he kept things matter-of-fact, taking a simple blue band-collared shirt as his starting point and building his collection from there. The focus was on fabric, volume, proportion—nuts and bolts, in other words, out of which Alan put together a collection that transcended its parts. Some of that had to do with tone: There was something ethereal and romantic about these clothes, what with the soft palette, mannerist long shapes, and easy, floating volumes. And much of the success of this outing had to do with Alan's materials, especially his sheer-ish white tulles and soft, Japanese discharge print denim. The fabrics really helped to elevate the collection.Alan did have one "concept" group here, too: The bold floral pajamalike pieces were, he explained, his take on Japanese "roomwear," the relaxed clothes people wear at home. These looks didn't exactly sit with the rest of the collection, but they weren't disruptive either. And anyway, "roomwear" is a fantastic idea and should be widely adopted. Alan's shows have always featured good clothes, which fly out of his expanding empire of stores, but this was his first collection that seemed to have more of a vision in place. It will be interesting to see what's next.
|
Maya Singer
|
September 9, 2013
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6511f08298d8be21be4eb/master/w_1280,c_limit/steven_alan_001_1366.1366x2048.JPG"
] |
spring
|
2014
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Stine Goya
|
pre-fall-2025
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2025/stine-goya
|
Stine Goya was working with the theme of duality when designing her pre-fall collection, yet it is the power of opposites that really comes through, as when tiny embroidered flowers are scattered on khaki carpenter pants, or smocking is applied to shirting rather than a more traditionally feminine fabric. The house’s signature florals appear on silky printed pieces and are woven into a multicolor jacquard in standard silhouettes. Newsier is a balletic dress with a maillot-like knit top and a fuller skirt of a lighter fabric, and a black-on-black appliqué on a festive blouse. There were many enticing top options in this lineup, including a fitted, caviar-beaded corset-y number in denim that can be dressed up or down.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
December 11, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6724f1df004bbe4f556b547c/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-stine-goya-pre-fall-2025-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
pre-fall
|
2025
|
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] |
||
Stine Goya
|
copenhagen-spring-2025
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/copenhagen-spring-2025/stine-goya
|
Stine Goya is a Copenhagen Fashion Week OG so it was a surprise not to see the brand’s name on the official calendar. “I think it is time to rethink a little bit,” said the designer, “and then of course we are also doing this big art curation projectopening this fall in Jutland at the [Kunsten Museum of Modern Art], which is taking a lot of our time, and we think it’s so fun to get into the whole art world just for a change. It feels quite good to take a little break so that I can be a bit more personal.”Visitors to the brand’s pink-walled offices were welcomed by a fantastical tablescape. On a whimsically painted tablecloth were plates of lemons, baguettes, bow-tied candle sticks, and hand-painted matchboxes. As the team was discussing their “woman,” Goya explained, “we started talking about how she’s personalizing her everyday life, the way she’s doing her table setting with matchboxes that she’s painting herself and how she’s a collector.” The idea of customizing is a timely one but not pushed much further than using unmatched buttons on a jacket; while a novelty cardigan festooned with matchbooks and candles (one with a 3D flame) that read more twee than cute. The larger issue here might be that this “character” being conjured is generic, in comparison to Goya herself, at a time when things personal (style, experiences, etc.) are increasingly valued.Goya fans will be happy to see the brand’s checkerboard knits back, and this time they are delightfully fluffy. The peplums the designer is fond of appear on a micro-pleated set that has boho appeal. The mimosa-colored suit was cheery. Most directional was a cinched waisted brown leather jacket with a strong shoulder line. Then came the bows; a blue suit with black bows was certainly smart, but it was styled in the lookbook (featuring localartistand It girl Klara Kristen) with a matching bow bag that’s similar to others seen elsewhere. It feels like there are too many cooks in the kitchen who are intent on following the market’s latest trend recipes instead of serving up the house specialties.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
August 14, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/66b0b00eef6f27b075ff2967/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-stine-goya-spring-2025-ready-to-wear-copenhagen-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
copenhagen
|
spring
|
2025
|
[
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] |
|
Stine Goya
|
resort-2025
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2025/stine-goya
|
“We’re trying to put some new life into some of the classics of Goya,” Stine Goya said of her 2025 resort collection. One of those beloved standbys is a padded bomber with a watercolor floral print (developed in-house) that features beaded stamens. The same textile is used for a sleeveless A-line shift here that can be layered over a long-sleeved top when the temperature drops. All-over beading is applied to easy separates, like a hoodie, and on a more straightforward evening frock. A rich merlot was chosen to update the brand’s go-to pantsuit.In a nine look campaign, the denim feels like an outlier. The piece that screams Goya is a turtleneck dress featuring a lush, expressionist portrait of the designer and her husband Thomas Hertz in the green yard of their summer house. This motif builds on the story of home and intimacy that the brand has been telling with recent shows set on the street where Goya lives and in her offices. As the print is based on a work in oil, it has a painting-like dimensionality, which is also on theme. The designer is working on an installation and curation of the collection at the Kunsten Museum of Modern Art in Jutland, in the North of Denmark, that’s set to open in November, around the time that this collection will be delivered.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
May 21, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/663a39142d8a2cbaf6f6a0fd/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-stine-goya-resort-2025-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2025
|
[
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] |
||
Stine Goya
|
copenhagen-fall-2024
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/copenhagen-fall-2024/stine-goya
|
After bringing us to her Copenhagen home last season with a show held on the charming cobbled street on which she lives, Stine Goya opted to give us insight into her work life this time around. She presented her fall 2024 collection inside the brand’s atelier.The designer commissioned British-born, Copenhagen-based artist David Risley to paint portraits of her team, from senior print designer Blanca to pattern maker Roberto. The resulting artworks were hung on the studio walls, ensuring that those working behind-the-scenes were front of mind (later Goya’s team came out for a bow, dressed in brightly-colored shirts).Goya used Risley’s work as a starting point for the collection, even transposing the artist’s painting of the brand’s signature clog—inspired by Delacroix’sWomen of Algiers—onto a tunic dress. Hand-drawn prints of the staircase leading up to the atelier and the table in the showroom also made their way into the collection, providing a very literal take on the theme.The designer reiterated her interest in color with a voiceover at the start of the show, which saw her reading out her manifesto. “Colors have always been at the core of my creativity,” she said. “They define me as a designer and, in many ways, as a person.” While Goya may be best known for her use of pastel shades, this season featured a moodier palette, from ochre red to chocolate brown—perhaps a sign of evolution as the brand expands globally.Like many contemporary designers, Goya is increasingly focused on creating a full wardrobe for her customers, from denim to tailoring. The most successful pieces offered subtle twists on classic staples: a structured two-in-one blazer and shirt, and a pinstripe skirt with a floral print peeking through.For Stine Goya’s core customer base, the checkerboard knits, jacquards, and sequins are likely to appeal. Retaining that brand DNA will be crucial as the designer—and her atelier—moves forward.
|
Emily Chan
|
January 31, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/65ba8c99e91b57deaaa1b6b9/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-stine-goya-fall-2024-ready-to-wear-copenhagen-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
copenhagen
|
fall
|
2024
|
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] |
|
Stine Goya
|
pre-fall-2024
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2024/stine-goya
|
Portrait of an Explorer, the title of Stine Goya’s pre-fall lineup, might suggest a historical inspiration, but the designer’s focus is actually more personal. “We’re talking about how you as a person explore your sights inside, how you can be super strong-minded and you can also be resilient or emotionally fragile—all of those parts of your personality,” she said on a call. What it all boils down to is a collection of looks that speak to different moods and occasions.Goya has always had an eye for color, and she employs it on eye-catching solid separates that can easily be mixed into an existing wardrobe. Pearl fastenings were the designer’s fascination last season; hardware is the focus this season. A curve of metal tubing stamped with the brand logo attached to the collar of a suit jacket doubles as a kind of jewelry, as does a golden belt that wraps around a persimmon coat. Metal rings are used to create a pull-through effect on a draped jersey cocktail dress as well as on bags. Casual curved-leg jeans are perfect for pairing with the brand’s Hailey Bieber–approved checkerboard sweater, now offered as a peach-and-mocha cardigan.Pre-fall’s news is a photo-print poppy; its stamens bedazzled on a sporty quilted bomber. Goya has largely moved away from her hand-created motifs, so it was nice to see an irregular side stripe appear as if drawn onto a pair of pajama pants. As this Copenhagen brand has gone global, it’s become dressier and more polished, but that small nostalgic touch delivers on the perfectly imperfect boho charm and hop-on-a-bike ease that is also part of the brand’s DNA.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
November 21, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/655b6ca324f20dfd94ce3658/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-stine-goya-pre-fall-2024-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
pre-fall
|
2024
|
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] |
||
Stine Goya
|
copenhagen-spring-2024
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/copenhagen-spring-2024/stine-goya
|
Expansion is on the agenda chez Stine Goya, and in the course of a couple years the company has opened new offices and a shop in London. Seemingly in parallel, the offering has come to feel more dressy, more in keeping with a big-city vibe than the more casual cool of Copenhagen, but for spring 2024 the designer shifted her focus back to Denmark with a collection called Homecoming.There’s no set definition of “home.” It can be a place, or even a feeling, Goya noted in an interview. She considered the idea from a drone’s viewpoint as well as from up-close, inviting people to the apple tree-lined street on which she lives. All the neighbors agreed to using their enclave for the undertaking, and there were faces pressed against windows watching the show from the comfort of their own abodes.The set design consisted of a long series of made-for-Instagram tables, laid with clothes, cutlery, and china on which sat jellied dishes, flowers, and loaves of bread. This was Goya’s literal take on the idea of Homecoming, and to drive home the message she brought along two old friends, Helena Christensen and Camilla Staerk, to walk the show.In terms of design, Goya didn’t abandon her roots, but she didn’t reissue vintage pieces or otherwise go back deep into prints. The only checkerboard sweaters were seen on members of the audience. There were some wonderful ombre denims, and the use of print on sportier separates was smart and fun, as was the neon tailoring. Strap and button details were recurring techniques.If only Goya had leaned in here and featured the more casual but polished pieces that would work for the school run or having a drink with a neighbor after the kids were tucked in. After all, the idyllic-looking (life)style the designer enjoys at home is sure to be draw for people in the markets the company might expand into. Nevertheless there were plenty of garments to raise a glass to here.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
August 10, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/64d3b57134738028f805db8b/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-stine-goya-spring-2024-ready-to-wear-copenhagen-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
copenhagen
|
spring
|
2024
|
[
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] |
|
Stine Goya
|
resort-2024
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2024/stine-goya
|
The relevance of the Costume Institute’s 2016 exhibition “Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology” grows every time we cross a new technological threshold. This year AI and ChatGPT are constant topics of conversation, including at Stine Goya, the Danish brand that was first known for hand-drawn prints. The designer and her team decided to change things up for their Artificial Infatuation resort collection. “Sometimes when there’s something that feels alien to you, the best thing is actually just to go into it,” said Goya on a call.The press release was generated by ChatGPT and the ethereal prints were created using a tool called DALL-E, along with some human intervention. The prints take their names from the language that was used to achieve them, descriptive phrases like “smokey rose underwater,” “flowers covered in glitter in a dark room,” and “flowers in fast motion.” One motif used on a knit sweater resembles tie-dye; others, like a rose carefully placed on a slip dress and an abstract pattern on a parka, relate to Goya’s past work.For some time now, the brand has been as much about sparkle as it is about print and color. This is partly due to the company’s expansion, but also related to the season. There are lots of dress-up options here, including a gold flower dress, an iteration of a red one from a few seasons ago, and lots of slim beaded columns. A black pantsuit with an abstract metallic logo print looked most distinctive, and the pieces could easily be worn as separates. The party mood extended into accessories, which have become more of a focus as the brand grows. Black boots with cascading pendant beads and a bag with a fringed diamante handle added a disco vibe.Goya explained that she wanted to zero in both on the dressier, more intricately worked pieces and the more casual ones; hence the double-waisted denim. It’s unclear where a beaded hoodie falls on that spectrum, but no algorithm was needed to determine that a royal blue double-breasted blazer with a teddy-like texture paired with a generously cut pair of cargo pants in a pale almond color were Goya all the way.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
May 31, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/64770f5b7e90bf44e38d697c/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-stine-goya-resort-2024-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2024
|
[
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] |
||
Stine Goya
|
copenhagen-fall-2023
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/copenhagen-fall-2023/stine-goya
|
Before there wasFrozenthere was Hans Christian Andersen’sSnow Queen, the starting point for Stine Goya’s fall collection. “I was just really inspired by his whole snow universe and the way he’s describing this lake that is crystallizing and the way he was also so ahead of his time [as] the female characters, especially in this story, were the brave ones, the strong ones, the heroines.” If only fashion headhunters would place more female designers in leading roles….In any case, this woman-led brand is changing with the times and has ambitious plans for expansion. No longer are Goya’s hand-drawn prints the main plot line of her collections. For fall they were used full-scale mostly on parkas, while a single flower was isolated on the opening look, a statement-making coat. Filling in the spaces once occupied by prints were patterned jacquards, metallics, and sequin embroideries, like the bejeweled “snowflakes” that showed up on faux furs, and fell in orderly fashion down the sides of pants. The designer is smartly sticking by her signature—and Hailey Bieber-approved—checkerboard sweater.Expanding on the snow theme, Goya was more generally inspired by famous ski resorts, like Aspen, and created looks for sport and après ski. The active looks, like a slope-ready close-to-the-body jumpsuit, were some of the strongest because Goya found ways to make them her own. Their counterparts were diamanté pieces, including some blingy slingbacks that veered into Tom Ford for Gucci territory. Liquid silk pants were all Goya, however, and the designer took her bow wearing a pair.On the runway were a number of clear glass columns filled with what looked like ice-blue water that crystallized as the show progressed. Goya replicated this home-science experiment on a few pieces in the collection. There was a snow queen dress worn by a model with “iced” eyelashes. A handbag was similarly treated. Goya isn’t the only one to mourn the recent lack of snow, which is perhaps an effect of global warming; one of Demna’s recent collections for Balenciaga was inspired by the lack of the stuff. “I just really wanted to honor the cold and the icy winters,” Goya said.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
February 1, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/63dac16437a0e77e506b1e59/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-stine-goya-fall-2023-copenhagen-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
copenhagen
|
fall
|
2023
|
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]
] |
|
Stine Goya
|
pre-fall-2023
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2023/stine-goya
|
The Copenhagen designer Stine Goya recently opened a showroom and store in London and is planning further expansion soon. The result is not only that Goya’s teams are bigger, they are also more multicultural, which is reflected in the pre-fall collection.There are several Spaniards on the design team, and research for this season included group viewings and dissections of Pedro Almovódar’s films. Happily the results of this research were not literal but expansive. Prints are the mainstay of the brand and what looks like a marbled pattern is actually a riff on the director’s photographs of light reflected through Murano glass vases. This motif was applied to fluid fabrics as well as to a heavy cotton moto/mini combo that definitely had Penélope Cruz vibes. A black and white splatter pattern was derived from a scene inVicky Cristina Barcelonain which the actress and Almovódar muse throws paint at a wall.Goya continued to expand her offering of saturated solids, this time taking her palette in a warmer, even fiery direction, while paying attention to texture. This is a logical and practical extension of the designer’s work that is meeting with much success. Elsewhere, she has yet to fully untangle the sporty/dressy balance of the line. A pair of taffeta shorts in this collection was shown with a sort of industrial shirt as well as a puffy, Empire-line blouse. It’s nice to have options, but perhaps even better to commit to a vibe rather than hedging bets.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
December 5, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/638e0a042076496cabf01fc0/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-stine-goya-prefall-2023-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
pre-fall
|
2023
|
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]
] |
||
Stine Goya
|
copenhagen-spring-2023
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/copenhagen-spring-2023/stine-goya
|
The dismantling of Roe vs. Wade must be especially baffling to Scandinavians, who enjoy universal healthcare and expose advanced views on feminism. With “what is happening in the US now,” said Stine Goya post-show, “I think it’s important to remember that we still have far to go with women’s rights, I think [this collection] was really about finding the strength inside women who actually [could say] what they wanted to do, so the inspiration is the Riot Grrls” of the early ’90s.The designer and her team channeled the spirit of these organizers and activists rather than their often grunge style. Goya’s women are increasingly dressed up to go out and show off; one sparkling mesh slip dress left almost nothing to the imagination. A beaded tunic and pants in white had a sophisticated maturity that some of the other almost “girly” frocks lacked. The predominance of party dresses is in part to meet the demands of the British market. Having established a separate office in London, the brand will open a flagship there this September.Goya took her bow in a peak Copencore look: long button-down shirt with sequined pants and sneakers. It was her tailoring that felt most directional here, be it a pink beaded windbreaker and pants set, or a pantsuit (with cargo-style trousers) in one of Goya’s self-designed prints. The show opened with a series of solid colored looks, which is in keeping with a slight movement away from the prints that have long dominated the scene in the Danish capital.Designed by the architectural firm Spacon & X, the show’s set consisted of sand pillars, set on hidden vibrating platforms, that collapsed during the show to reveal pink powder. “We wanted [the set] to inspire conversation,” said Goya, the main message was “to break down barriers.” What better way to do so than with some grrrl power?
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
August 10, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/62f3d5166b03b4e9b4a17542/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-stine-goya-copenhagen-spring-2023-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
copenhagen
|
spring
|
2023
|
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] |
|
Strateas Carlucci
|
australia-resort-2018
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/australia-resort-2018/strateas-carlucci
|
Strateas Carlucci, designed by Peter Strateas and Mario-Luca Carlucci, is an Australian label tapping into the sexy streetwear currently trending around the world. As such, their patent trenches (worn sans pants, of course), tear-away denim, and Western boots don’t feel particularly new—we saw shades of brands from Vetements to Matthew Adams Dolan on the catwalk—but in the landscape of Aussie fashion, the pair is positively leading the charge.Their most daring looks this season weren’t the bold-shouldered blazers or wide trousers, but rather, the slogan tees and knits that played off the pair’s Australian heritage to ironic effect.Devo—shorthand for devastated, not the ’80s synth band—was spelled out on a tee in neon pink, whilesuss—short for suspicious—was made into a knit tracksuit in lilac and white. Strange, clever, and singularly Australian, this is the attitude Strateas Carlucci should develop moving forward.
|
Steff Yotka
|
May 22, 2017
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/591d874f177af3600b12c623/master/w_1280,c_limit/_STR0011.jpg"
] |
australia
|
resort
|
2018
|
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|
Studio 189
|
spring-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/studio-189
|
“It’s been 10 years since we originally set our intention,” said Studio 189 designer Abrima Erwiah, who debuted the label back in 2013 with actor Rosario Dawson. “This show is evidence of a decade of purpose.”The show was opened by V, formerly Eve Ensler, with an impactful reading celebrating Studio 189’s mission. “In 2013, V told us that one in three women will be raped or sexually violated in her lifetime, and asked for a billion people to take a stance and dance,” reminisced Erwiah. “That changed our lives.” That’s when the designer and Dawson partnered to enact change of their own: “It made us realize that there are so many people who work in the supply chain whose names you don’t know,” she said, “and we said that fashion can be an agent for social change.”Studio 189 clothes are made by hand in Africa with a manufacturing facility in Accra. They are the physical manifestation of years of tradition and hours of manual labor. This season, its wide range of separates expanded into sultry and skin-baring silhouettes including boxy crop tops, racerback tanks, and bustiers and skirts fitted close to the body. Those pieces were made with indigo dyes, hand-batik techniques, and kente weaving. A particularly charming tailored jacket covered in patches, each made by an individual artisan, said it all: You can see the hands in each piece from Studio 189.“Joy was the mood of the season,” said Erwiah, and it always is. Every Studio 189 show is a celebration of life and a dance party that will bring out smiles and foot taps from even the most stoic editors and self-serious Fashion Week attendees. Partly responsible for this cheerful energy is the colorful lineup: “We have colors that remind us of the Caribbean to draw connections between Ghana and its diaspora in the States,” said Erwiah.“We’re hearing there are protests and stuff this Fashion Week,” said Dawson backstage. “We would walk you down the aisle; this is what we stand for, to know who makes your clothes and what impact they have.” In case one needed further proof, the show’s backdrop featured a mural of a few of Studio 189’s artisans. “These hands go slow,” recited V at the start of the show. “Bless these hands. No two pieces are alike.”
|
José Criales-Unzueta
|
September 10, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/64fe0e0ab668f782d8620040/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-studio%20189-spring%202024-ready%20to%20wear-credit-daniele%20oberrauch-gorunway.com.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Studio 189
|
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/studio-189
|
Studio 189 by Abrima Erwiah and Rosario Dawson started its show this season with a voiceover dedication to the former’s father, who passed away recently. That set the tone for a heartfelt and emotive presentation grounded on familial ties and community.After the dedication and an uplifting dance presentation “in honor of those who have fallen,” as Erwiah said in her address to the audience after the show, an almost entirely print-based collection made its way down the runway. It was aptly titled Mélange, which came across in the mixing of prints and colors and more poetically in the casting: a wide range of backgrounds, ages, and sizes. Mélange also because of the compelling mixture of techniques Erwiah recruited to put together this collection: There was hand batik, weaving, patchwork, indigo dyeing, and basket weaving.What’s compelling about Studio 189 is that you can see the hands that touched the pieces every step of the way. The emphasis on storytelling through craftsmanship is honest and endearing, and it certainly won over the crowd this morning. Although at times the volume of pieces on the runway felt overwhelming, the messaging was mostly focused and straightforward. It was aided by cohesive print clashing in the styling, patchworking, and layering. Hand-painted florals and stripes and a run of kente pieces made the most striking stories in the collection. The striped woven fabrics used in looks 47 and 48 were favorites in the crowd; they felt the most elevated and offered welcome visual variance. A standout piece was a button-down skirt with solid silk godets.The show ended as it started, with a dance performance. Dance seems to be big this season; this is the third presentation I’ve been to that featured it—perhaps it reflects a post-pandemic need to get out there and move. At Studio 189 it was about joy, celebration, and homage. “I am inspired by the stories that are woven into our culture and into cloth and that carry us through the past and onto the future,” Erwiah wrote in her show notes. Today’s mélange was a thoughtful celebration of those stories.
|
José Criales-Unzueta
|
September 11, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/631e1c723897ed156acaa062/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-studio-189-spring-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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|
Studio 189
|
spring-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-ready-to-wear/studio-189
|
Tears—of sadness and of joy—fell at Abrima Erwiah and Rosario Dawson’s Studio 189 show, which was about much more than clothes. It always is: Studio 189 is a mission-based, sustainably made label that supports African artisans, celebrates Black heritage across the diaspora, and fosters community. But this year, the presentation of the new collection coincided with the 20th anniversary of 9/11, and the co-founders honored that in several ways.The hush that fell before the start of the show was broken by an original composition by Uproot Andy, using sounds he recorded in the days just after 9/11. The show’s first “exit” was made by three musicians: A drummer and two vocalists, Neda Zahraie and Bridget Barkan, who sang a love poem in Farsi and English. Following this, a powerful spoken word piece was performed by Sarah Jones, the Tony Award–winning playwright. After all the clothes had been paraded, there was a moment of silence in remembrance of those lost.Connection is at the core of everything that Studio 189 does: Connection to the land, connection to materials and craft traditions, connections among people, and connection to the past, which was particularly at play this season. The collection was called “Inheritance” because of the way it braids together the Spring 2021 and Fall 2021 collections with this season’s designs. But on this historic day, it was impossible not to think of how we are still coming to terms with the inheritance of 9/11, not to mention American history as a whole.There were a few new silhouettes for Spring—like a maxi skirt that combined kente and indigo-dyed cloth—and new categories, too, including swimwear, in partnership with Cosabella. The print offering was expanded, and patterns and colors were styled to clash for maximum impact. The intermingling of prints, wovens, and patchworks was especially effective; the varied hands of the materials created visual texture as well.These were joyful clothes that were worn joyfully and received that way. As models danced their way down the runway, the audience, seated in a circular formation—representing “the circularity of clothes, of each other, of our humanity,” as Erwiah said to the crowd—danced in their seats. This was a fashion show and a shared emotional experience on a national day of mourning.“So often, when we’re in pain we step outside of the circle, we pull back,” said Dawson in her address to the guests. “We think it’s too dangerous, we think it’s too hurtful, but that’s actually the moment where we’re supposed to step inside the circle so that we can comfort each other and be there for each other and get stronger together, so that then we can step back into holding that circle tighter. So thank you for being in the circle with us, for broadening that circle, let it be always inclusive of every generation, every race, every gender, every culture, everybody. We have so much shared between us, and we focus way too much on what breaks us apart when we could be celebrating those differences for what it makes of our humanity, which is just the breath of us, the beauty of us.”
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
September 11, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/613ce347432569a6d5ff7eef/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Studio-189-Spring-22-RTW-New-York-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2022
|
ready-to-wear
|
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|
Studio 189
|
fall-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/studio-189
|
Whom is fashion for? And whom is fashion by? Talk of color, silhouette, sustainability, and inspiration generally dominates the discussion about clothes, leaving the human aspect of fashion overlooked. Think about it: In three words the skilled artisans who craft couture,les petites mains,are rendered invisible save for their agile fingers.Studio 189’s collection film is all about celebrating the company’s employees, and making them feel seen. Shot in the studio in Ghana, the collection is shown in process and then presented to a front row of employees, one of whom, Lydia Mensah, shares her story. The video brings the viewer to Ghana, to the very room where the clothes are made, and it shows the impact of fashion apart from consumption and narrative. Rather, it speaks to the value of work and the interconnectedness of us all, and it does this with an overflowing helping of Studio 189’s signature—joy.The brand was founded in 2013 by Abrima Erwiah and Rosario Dawson after a trip to Congo. While there they visited the City of Joy, a leadership community for female survivors of sexual violence. This, says Erwiah, “was the beginning of this journey, and it’s about turning pain into power and turning ourselves toward our joy.” It seems that both she and Dawson see this emotion existing on a continuum that extends from the past through the present and into the future.Heritage is the theme explored in the latest collection. One of the ways it is expressed is through the use of Kente, the national cloth of Ghana that is associated with royalty and has tradition and symbols literally woven into it. This season’s direct references to African clothing and textile traditions make clear that this brand doesn’t cater to Western taste. “It’s about standing in your power,” says Erwiah, who adds that she’s noticed a change among consumers (and buyers), who are becoming less afraid of prints and patterns. These days, she says, people want “more human things, but also more joyful things, more colorful things,” and points to a long skirt with rainbow-colored tiers in the current collection as an example.One of Studio 189’s missions is to be a bridge between the United States and Africa. On Inauguration Day that span extended all the way to the White House: Rosario Dawson and Senator Cory Booker attended the ceremony wearing matching Studio 189 masks.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
February 18, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/602e9db20a6b7990c15bee5d/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Studio-189-Fall-21.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2021
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Studio 189
|
spring-2020-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/studio-189
|
Pharrell’s “Happy” could be the theme song of the spring 2020 season here in New York. Designers are responding to turmoil with bold statements of optimism. And they’re doing so collaboratively and theatrically, with music and dance performances in inventive venues that invite audiences to, as Pharrell did in his hit song, “clap along if you feel like that’s what you wanna do.” Fun and games are fine, up to a point. But sometimes we need to move beyond our individual feelings and act, whether alone or as part of a community. Today, fashion must not only look good, it should do good—or, at the very least, not do harm.Actor Rosario Dawson and fashion executive/Bottega Veneta alum Abrima Erwiah have been engaged with enacting change using fashion as their vehicle since founding Studio 189 in 2013. Their aim is to make great clothes and at the same time support women’s empowerment, preserve traditional crafts, and champion sustainability. The two are recent recipients of the CFDA Lexus Award for their work in that area.Circularity is important to Studio 189’s day-to-day operations; this season it was built into their show concept as well, which was Heritage. “We really wanted to go back and see where we all come from and highlight that we all have a shared history,” said Erwiah. “And then figure out how we can work together to think about the future.” The live musical performances and dance sequences were about looking back to move forward. The opening, said Erwiah, “was kind of like calling on our ancestors and giving thank you.” Many of the looks that followed were shown on pairs of models, which was another way to highlight the importance of connectedness. Dawson was feeling it; at one point she was standing in the aisle dancing and singing along. When was the last time you saw a designer do something like that at their own show? It was a joy to see.The clothes were similarly upbeat. There were many mixed prints, an explosion of glorious color, indigo dyes, embroideries, and patchwork. Ease is a keyword of Spring 2020, and Studio 189 achieved it in the liquid flow of wide-legged and high-waisted pants for men and women. It was also built into romantic ruffled dresses that were a welcome evolution from that Holly Hobbie look. These were maxi-length, with lovely sleeve details and full skirts that moved beautifully. It was easy to imagine how soft they would feel moving against one’s skin, whatever color that might be.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
September 11, 2019
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5d792f51422dfb0009b83ebd/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Studio-189-Ready-To-Wear-Spring-2020.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2020
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Suboo
|
fall-2013-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2013-ready-to-wear/suboo
|
We're posting runway pictures from Fashion Week Australia. See the full list of designers here. To read our daily reports on the collections, visit our Style File blog. And don't miss our street-style coverage.
| null |
April 10, 2013
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6511508298d8be21b34a9/master/w_1280,c_limit/suboo_001_1366.1366x2048.JPG"
] |
fall
|
2013
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Sudi Etuz
|
istanbul-fall-2021
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/istanbul-fall-2021/sudi-etuz
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6082f939e0b7789635454bcb/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-SUDI-ETUZ-ISTANBUL-FALL-21.jpg"
] |
istanbul
|
fall
|
2021
|
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] |
||
Sudi Etuz
|
istanbul-spring-2021
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/istanbul-spring-2021/sudi-etuz
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5f85c02b04ab45f8d2473e04/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-SUDI-ETUZ-Istanbul-Spring-21-credit-Emre-Guven.jpg"
] |
istanbul
|
spring
|
2021
|
[
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]
] |
||
Sue Stemp
|
spring-2009-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2009-ready-to-wear/sue-stemp
|
Sue Stemp is currently enamored of photographer David Hamilton's gauzy images of flower-bedecked seventies youth as well as captivated by the sly seduction of a John Singer Sargent portrait. The result? Call it Mademoiselle X. The designer's modern-day provocateur is young at heart—note, the rooftop party-cum-presentation was hosted by Tamsin Lonsdale and Arden Wohl, two mischief-making girls on the New York scene—and, as we've come to expect, the clothes were made for cocktails. Among the best pieces were hand-embroidered shorts with tuxedo suiting in cream and black, and delicate silk tops adorned with oversize silk-screened blooms. Working in a neutral palette of "makeup colors" (translation: cream, ivory, and rose), Stemp offered romance and raciness. One dress, in fact—short and tiered—would be just as appropriate in the boudoir as on a banquette.
|
Alison Baenen
|
September 3, 2008
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6519508298d8be2243c9c/master/w_1280,c_limit/00010fullscreen.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2009
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Sue Stemp
|
fall-2008-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2008-ready-to-wear/sue-stemp
|
You don't need to read her blog to know that Sue Stemp loves a night out. Although dressing friends like Theodora Richards, Leigh Lezark, Daisy Lowe, and Sarah Sophie Flicker for a party-cum-presentation at private club Norwood was hardly the most efficient way to show a collection, it was undeniably logical for Stemp's perennially fête-inspired wares. Taking cues from the Art Nouveau decor of Maxim's, as well as some of its more decadently stylish past denizens, the designer showed flirty, jewel-toned cocktail frocks in ruched chiffon and draped satin, and maxidresses with attached scarves and Ben Copperwheat prints. It could have been the models' sweating-all-night-on-the-dance-floor hair, but Stemp seemed to hit the mark for a wardrobe that stays chic from sunset to sunrise and, in the case of her good-time girls, perhaps even longer.
|
Meenal Mistry
|
January 31, 2008
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6518708298d8be223445a/master/w_1280,c_limit/00010m.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2008
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Sue Stemp
|
spring-2008-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2008-ready-to-wear/sue-stemp
|
Big names buzz around this British designer. Kate Moss is a fan, and the artist Ben Copperwheat and the graphic designer Deanne Cheuk have collaborated on prints. At her third New York outing came more evidence of Stemp's ability to draw bold-name supporters: The front row was chockablock with young social types (Arden Wohl, Lauren Davis, Olivia Palermo), models (Jacquetta Wheeler, Agyness Deyn), and the odd music-scene figure (Mick Rock).Stemp produced the sort of feminine, English bohemian clothes she does well, this time with an eye to the jet-set, disco-era seventies. There were flowing caftans, bra dresses, and disco jogging pants cut from silks and chiffons in bright colors and trippy prints (including one called Voodoo Ray). A snug vest worn with nothing underneath and a pair of pleated, wide-leg pants could have come from Bianca Jagger's wardrobe. A simple trench was cleverly detailed with paillettes cut from the lenses of mirrored sunglasses. This was a strong showing, with plenty to love for the Notting Hill eccentric and her American hipster counterpart.
|
Joanna Rodger
|
September 4, 2007
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6517f08298d8be222ae79/master/w_1280,c_limit/00010m.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2008
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Sukeina
|
spring-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/sukeina
|
Foregoing a slot on the New York Fashion Week calendar, Sukeina’s Omar Salam took his show on the road for spring 2024, presenting his collection—by invitation—in Africa and the Middle East, where his intricately worked, and dressed-up, designs have enthusiastic followings.The designer works from a Brooklyn high-rise with huge windows that give the space a floating-in-the-air feeling, making the nominal theme of the collection, the sky’s transformation from dawn to dusk, a natural fit. But the truth is the only time these pieces would see the early light is if the wearer stayed up all night. Sukeina clothes aren’t for a just-rolled-out-of-bed schlep to the bodega; rather they are meticulously crafted designs that encourage, almost demand, that the wearer put her main character energy on full display. It would be impossible to wear the super-wide legged, feather-trimmed jumpsuit, for example, with anything but flair.Salam is as committed on his end: “If you are designing and you are taking on people that are working for you, cutting fabric, all of that, there must be some level of responsibility, some level of commitment. It cannot be halfway done. It cannot be 80% done,” he said with passion. “You deserve to surround yourself with things that inspire you, move you, touch you, and make you feel such a way that every time you have it on you or around you, you deliver your best, you express your most, you are your most essential,” he continued.Among the stunners in the collection were a linear, body-con wiggle dress with a folded neckline and “tabbed” waist and a collapsed cocoon-shaped coat dress with a deliberately caught up hem that fell in a wave around the body. Salam showed his mesh pieces over bodysuits, which emphasized their transparency rather than delivering modesty, a concept that doesn’t have much traction in fashion these days. Most unexpected were the slight early ’60s (deliberate or not) references, such as modular “diaper” shorts and miniskirts. Traditional smocking was changed out for Sukeina’s signature fringe on a baby-doll dress that was both sassy and sweet.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
November 17, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/655492db02e20efa016339bb/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-sukeina-spring-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Sukeina
|
fall-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/sukeina
|
At the close of the Sukeina show, Coco Rocha—dressed in a black and fuschia confectionery dress —was doing her best dramatic impression of John Singer Sargent’s painting El Jaleo. Someone has to wear it to the Met Gala, but it’s high white collar à la Karl Lagerfeld wasn’t the only aspect of Omar Salam’s fall collection that seemed to vibe with the upcoming exhibition’s theme; it too revealed “a line of beauty.” The models, all legs and small neat heads, looked like croquis (or fashion sketches) come to life. Salam’s work has another connection to paper; one of the brand’s signatures is an origami-like construction technique, seen in the first look, a sculptural color-blocked coat.The Sukeina founder is preoccupied with spaces in between, or more accurately in the fold. (The first look was a good example of this, as the construction created a silhouette around the body.) Called “You,” the show expanded that idea as Sukeina was considering the effect that a woman’s presence has on those around her, that gap between how the self is presented and perceived. His use of outsized zippers played with this idea of access, what you choose to share or not.The Sukeina woman clearly is one who has mastered the art of making an entrance. She’s elegant and she’s daring and she is precise, as is Salam’s tailoring. The suspender dresses might have had something of a school girl vibe if they weren’t worn over sheer tops or sequined tops that fit like a second skin.Besides zippers, the main decorative element here wasn’t the brand’s signature knotting, but multicolored zig zag patterns that crescendoed into feathers. There were many iterations of this idea, which started to feel repetitive, despite the admirable craftsmanship. Salam was laser focused this season on selected techniques, and body type (the living croquis); it would be nice to see an expansion on both fronts because the unfolding of his talent, season after season, is a revelation and a delight.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
February 11, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/63e805c9caf31e253aa9e170/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-sukeina-fall-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
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|
Sukeina
|
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/sukeina
|
Just as Omar Salam precision-folds and knots his designs in beguiling new ways, so he introduces unexpected perspectives through his concepts and symbolism. The Sukeina spring collection was rendered almost entirely in red, for example, but the designer wanted us to see beyond that proud and powerful hue. “Though the color is dramatic,” Salam said of his lineup, “it’s really not about the color at all. It’s more about the nonconforming nature of it.”The male cardinal inspired the palette of the collection and its meaning (the female is brown and red). Unlike most species, who adapt to blend into their surroundings, these birds, which are named after Catholic bishops (who wear red robes), do not. As Salam sees it, the cardinal “is so focused and loyal to its belief, that it cares not how it is perceived”—what the designer referred to as “radical acceptance,” based on trust in a “creator that creates well” that motivated this collection.These clothes were stimulating even without the backstory. There would be no escaping attention in them—but not because they are especially body revealing. Salam stayed true to his body-con aesthetic and signature craft techniques. The hard angles of last season were replaced by softer and more feminine touches. Inserts of lace framed the mesh on one slender sheath; chiffon bows fluttered from either end of a boatneck collar.The fashion eye has adjusted to the mini length, and Salam used it to great graphic effect for a skirt, strapless party dresses, and coat. He also raised the bustline; a dress with a handkerchief hem and a strap just under the bust managed to look sexy and sporty at once. Another one-two punch of sorts came from what looked like a pair of puffed cargo shorts worn over leggings but was in fact a single garment. “They are like buffoon pants…with almost cartoon-level exaggeration,” the designer said. Shown with a box coat, they were OTT, but they looked smashing with a vest.As effective as Sukeina’s total look is, the pairing of intricately worked skirts with a simple turtleneck or button-down showed how these special pieces could have a “day life.” Others of Salam’s adaptations were less obvious. To avoid his chosen color becoming repetitive, the designer said he used 32 different fabrications to make sure that the red “felt consistent but ever changing”—which also neatly describes what Sukeina as a brand is all about.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
September 14, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6320d3e5ec935e306283a9d2/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-sukeina-spring-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-max-papendieck.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Sukeina
|
fall-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/sukeina
|
When Sukeina’s Omar Salam, presenting an anthracite tweed coat tailored to reveal a glimpse of its floral lining, said that he was aiming “to really create this feeling of flowers growing out of rocks,” the image that instantly came to my mind was not that of an artful ikebana but of a scrappy plant pushing its way through cracked concrete. This had nothing to do with the design, which was extremely sophisticated, and everything to do with the state of New York and the world. Both feel dangerous and backwards—who could believe that women’s right to control what happens to their own bodies would be threatened in 2022?Salam’s persistent optimism and long-sightedness could provide an antidote to anxiety. His covered-up and space-taking clothes are empowering; his tailoring requires an adjustment in posture to a confident stance. But he doesn’t aim to be all things to all women: “We promised ourselves that if we go into fashion, we will not do one thing that is being done by anyone else,” he said.To that end he’s focused on two specialties, an origami tailoring technique and exquisite knotting. It’s the latter that came to the fore here. The exaggerated and graphic curves of his tweeds carve into the negative space around them and sculpt the body. Unlike Christian Dior’s New Look curves, which were created through inner supports that reformed a body to suit the dress, in Salam’s inventive patterns boning becomes part of the outerseaming. The result is that when a woman pulls on these clothes, she takes on the shape of the garment rather than submitting to its form.With a miniskirt and cropped jacket in a furry texture Salam achieved his goal of bringing hard and soft together. He did so as well with a pair of beautifully cut cropped pants made of a substantial wool that allowed for movement. A floral sheath felt like an outlier save for its boatneck, a motif that ran throughout the collection. “It’s very difficult for us to detach ourselves from balance,” Salam said. The neckline was a way of “getting to a place of peace; that straight neckline just felt clean and cleansing to us.”Boatnecks aside, what’s most consistent in Salam’s work is his origami technique. He describes these folds as being like fortune cookies, which is an interesting metaphor that might be applied to the brand as a whole. Sukeina creates garments that allow women to carve out their own space in the world.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
May 25, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/628e730e9bb84e9aad4787e0/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-sukeina-fall-2022-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2022
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Sukeina
|
spring-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-ready-to-wear/sukeina
|
The Sukeina woman is going places, and not just because designer Omar Salam decided to show uptown in a modern salon on Central Park South. Before bombastic runway shows were the norm, fashion was previewed in intimate settings, where editors and clients could connect with the designer one-on-one.In the era of Zoom and FaceTime, it’s rare for creators and consumers to haveactualface time, but Salam wanted to preserve the real-world rapport that has been integral to his brand from the beginning. “I keep telling my customers that this is a moment to engage in the playfulness and joy of life,” he says. “This [season] is a bit of a departure; shapes are softer, the rhythm is joyous, and Sukeina’s woman feels different. Of course, she’s still doing big things, but she’s having fun too.”The season’s story was dubbed Hue, a word with multiple meanings that make their way onto the clothes. “You can define it as a color or a tint as in paint, but I loved the idea of it also representing humanity,” shared Salam. “The unity of all hues is what humanity truly ought to be, and the beauty of that concept moved me.” Salam’s exploration of the subject led to research on Bantu peoples of sub-Saharan Africa and their distinctive traditional dress, the patterns of which inspired the lively shades that feature within the collection. “They take disparate pieces of fabric and merge them to create patterns that are a symphony of color,” he explained. “They just exude joy, but beauty is also a form of escapism and repurposing; a way to take things that others have perceived as valueless and transform them.”In the past, Salam has kept his palette restrained, saving the bright colors for monochromatic looks or color-blocked pieces that feature his signature weaving. There are several new propositions this time around, including semitransparent tunics and matching pants, drop-waist dresses with playful pleats, and modish minis that would make Mary Quant proud. The sense of joy that Salam sought to create comes through, especially in the look book images featuring Coco Rocha.Rocha looks like a flapper with her bobbed hair and knee socks, and that jazzy Roaring Twenties vibe is reflected in the eveningwear. The mood is light, with feathered embellishments decorating ball gowns and tuxedo dresses revealing a hint of thigh as she leaps off the page.
|
Janelle Okwodu
|
September 9, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6132357f3bebee5817a56d63/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Sukeina-Spring-22-RTW.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2022
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Sukeina
|
fall-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/sukeina
|
Cozymay be one of the season’s buzzwords, but it comes at a cost. Moving toward a sensibility that prioritizes ease of wear is a choice some designers can’t make lightly, and for Sukeina’s Omar Salam, exploring the causal has been a learning experience. Until recently, his label focused on demi-couture pieces with an artistic flourish—the kind of fashion one reserves for special occasions. Sculptural dresses and intricately folded jackets are too grand for a trip to Costco or an evening spent browsing Netflix, but the supermodels and CCOs who’d embraced Salam’s work usually lead lives less ordinary. 2020’s global reset meant that even alpha-females had to slow things down, and Salam used his time in lockdown to adapt accordingly. With a work-from-home focused capsule collection released in December he expanded into basics, a pivot that broadened his audience.After the warm response to those limited-edition pieces, Salam felt ready to tackle quotidian dressing on a larger scale, so his vision for fall centered on ready-to-wear that felt effortless. “Until now, Sukeina was so elevated. We’re celebratory of women, their psyches, bodies, and emotions, but we’re [also] in the midst of a world that needs changing,” said Salam via Zoom. “I called this collection Grace because it’s about finding a balance—taking our brand’s DNA and merging that aesthetic with functionality to create clothes that are practical and comfortable, but still inspiring.”Combining those elements was a tall order, but Salam managed it. The precision folds and intricate weaving that have become his signatures were present, but this time he paired them with American sportswear standards and athletic references. The striped cuffs and collars found on classic letterman jackets served as a recurring motif, making their way onto unexpected pieces like turtleneck dresses and transparent blouses worn with pleated midi-skirts. At times Salam leaned into varsity sports symbols—the red-and-white sweater and structured skirt combination will make you wish your high school team’s uniforms had been cooler—but the lines became more interesting as they were blurred. On several looks, the stripes transformed into ruffles that coiled around the necks of models or jutted out from the midriff like mini-peplums, a simple touch that maximized visual impact. “I was happy to incorporate these elements that were fun as long as somewhere there was a sense of order,” said Salam. “You can take a fabric that looks super put-together then offset it with a ribbed detail or these almost industrial looking zippers. In the middle of all the sportiness, there is still a sense of symmetry.”
|
Janelle Okwodu
|
February 18, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/602b0661d6d4503e97fec174/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-SUKEINA-FALL-21-RTW.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2021
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Sukeina
|
spring-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2021-ready-to-wear/sukeina
|
A lot can happen in a year, just ask Sukeina’s Omar Salam. In the last 12 months, the designer has made his New York Fashion Week debut, released his first campaign, and been appointed creative director of the Frallain Group, a platform for luxury brands produced on the African continent. The series of wins helped raise Salam’s profile, but like many designers he found himself having to adapt once the coronavirus pandemic began. The addition of items like a roomy boyfriend sweater offered in multiple colorways expanded the scope of things, but eveningwear remains Salam’s focus.Spring’s theme connects with many of the issues currently facing fashion and culture at large. Dubbed “miracle,” it centers on the idea of having a seat at the table, something Black creators have continuously struggled to receive. In Salam’s view, the industry’s tendency toward gatekeeping limits its creative potential. “If one color is missing, the picture can’t be complete,” he shared on the phone from Brooklyn. “They might not [explicitly] say that someone isn’t allowed in the room, but when all that is necessary to get into those rooms excludes an entire group, the message is clear.”To counter that idea, he delved into cross-cultural reference points, looking to traditional Malian dress, Kenya’s Maasai tribe, and the Bassari people of the West African region. When European designers draw from indigenous cultures, the result is often literal or (much worse) stereotypical. In utilizing techniques specific to the African continent—primarily the intricate braiding and weaving used throughout the collection—Salam hoped to create something new by tapping into tradition. “These elements are what inspired Michael Jackson in music, Beyoncé in dance, Jean Paul Gaultier in fashion, and Yves Saint Laurent throughout the ’70s,” explains Salam. “Africa has had such a profound influence.”The context adds to the season’s story, but Salam’s output is eye-catching even without it. This season’s recurring motifs—neon marabou, lace woven into mesh, and layered fringe—are tricky, but the strongest looks used them to great effect. Why settle for a plain LBD when you can have one detailed to the max with mesh and lacework? Dresses taken to their abstract limit with folds of fabric at the shoulders to exaggerate their width and ruffles that bend like flower petals are a lot of look, but they fit with Salam’s powerhouse muses. Clients like Naomi Campbell and Netflix CMO Bozoma Saint John, who lends her name to a dramatic finale gown with puffed sleeves and a mermaid-worthy fish tail, are looking for wow factor, and these pieces deliver it.
|
Janelle Okwodu
|
September 14, 2020
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5f59e4d5a2f6905e357c8e66/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Sukeina-RTW-Spring-2021.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2021
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Sulvam
|
tokyo-spring-2025
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/tokyo-spring-2025/sulvam
|
Sulvam’s Teppei Fujita was something of a big brother on the Tokyo schedule this season. Showing in Japan for the first time in three years (he usually presents his collections in Paris, where he just opened his first shop), Fujita is a beacon of success in the Japanese scene; a lodestar for what many emerging designers here strive for. Many of them were in the audience at Sulvam’s show tonight, excited to see what Fujita had to offer.Did he set a shining example? There was the high budget production and vast show space—this season Sulvam was sponsored by Rakuten’s By R initiative—plus some celebrity wattage too, with Japanese acting royalty Yosuke Kubozuka sitting front row. It also marked Sulvam’s tenth year in business. Expectations were high.Fujita’s skill in fabrication is clear. His staples are romantically flowing shirts (often styled with a skinny black tie), unfinished hems with delicately trailing threads, and visible seams. Like a contemporary-minded couturier, he has a special knack for exposing the innards of the design process, seen this time on the contrast-seam jackets and white button-up shirts whose layered seams hung in ribbons across the back. Striped jersey tops and dresses that recalled Hot Topic emo styles from the 2000s had been pulled with holes or ruched up one side, while sheer paisley shirts brought an Americana vibe. Abstract floral get-ups, gold pants and jackets were followed by silver iterations. Best of all were the ’80s Armani-ish suits, updated for the moment with asymmetric quarters and wide curves slashed to reveal spools of lining, that came in black, then scarlet, then pinstripe.The diversity of the clothes showed off Fujita’s breadth of design talent, but as a show it lacked cohesion. When asked if he was worried that showing such a wide variety of styles, cuts and colors might result in a diluted sense of identity, Fujita was quick to answer. “If we created 50 looks this time, I think it’s fine if all 50 looks have completely different expressions. Various media and journalists say a lot about that, but I believe in myself, and Sulvam’s customers believe in me,” he said after the show. “Spending time between Japan and Paris, I realized that life is completely different in both places. The way people wear clothes is different… I felt all kinds of things. I’m in a situation where my ideas are endless.”While that kind of unbridled creative freedom sounds great on paper, in practice the brands that burn brightest on the runway are usually the ones that are able to edit their ideas into one clear thread. If Fujita had narrowed his focus further, he might have set an example worth following.
|
Ashley Ogawa Clarke
|
September 6, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/66dbaa2c3b0a7d26269ebcef/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-sulvam-spring-2025-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
tokyo
|
spring
|
2025
|
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] |
|
Sulvam
|
spring-2019-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-menswear/sulvam
|
Sulvam’s Teppei Fujita said his Spring presentation represented an academic setting, pointing to two mature models as teacher types among a class of coed students. Staggered throughout the tableaux vivant were large glass hookahs. What kind of school was this, really? “This is the school I wanted to go to,” he said with a smile.After showings in both Milan and at Pitti, this season marks the Tokyo-based designer’s first in Paris, and it comes on the heels of being a finalist for the LVMH Prize. Deliberately, it would seem, his characters never assimilate with their location; they remain a band of insouciant outsiders. “Sulvam seeks freedom and genderlessness,” noted the inspiration text. Or more accurately, gender inclusivity, since, as another first, he proposed a number of dedicated women’s looks. Previously, girls could borrow a blouson or oversize patterned sweater from the guys; now, their options increase with pieces like lightweight camisoles and ankle-length skirts. And at the other end of the spectrum were new versions of Fujita’s unstructured suiting—ties et al. “So much fashion has gone to the street; when I think of fashion, I still think of ties,” he said, noting that their connotation need not be corporate (special Nike kicks and color-coordinated Clarks confirmed as much). “I think they can actually be ageless.”Fujita develops all his own fabrics, so even when the final looks feel a little unresolved, there’s usually some point of interest in his process. His custom lace was the strongest element here, especially when shown as a standalone blouson or a lab coat–like overlay. And while gabardine wouldn’t ordinarily seem newsworthy, the fact that he had swapped out his default black (a holdover from his time alongside Yohji Yamamoto) for a lighter scheme spanning stony, sandy, and bottle-glassy made this collection stand out from his others. Needless to say, so did all those sharper hues and the studs that decorated skater-approximate pants. When it was suggested that these school characters gave off a certain Hitchcock strangeness, their style cool yet slightly twisted, Fujita needed a memory jog before realizing the reference. “Yes, this is me,” he said.
|
Amy Verner
|
June 23, 2018
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5b2e6882dfb55f5d708a2e3a/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Sulvam-Mens-SS19-Vogue-2019-pr.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2019
|
menswear
|
[
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] |
|
Sulvam
|
tokyo-fall-2017
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/tokyo-fall-2017/sulvam
|
Getting recognition is great, but if you rely too heavily on other people for validation and get complacent, you’re not going to get very far. That was the sentiment Sulvam designer Teppei Fujita expressed at the Tokyo Fashion Award press conference shortly before his Fall 2017 presentation. Fujita—who made this year’s LVMH short list in addition to winning the TFA in 2015—was invited to show his collection at Japanese high-end retailer United Arrows, which has recently started stocking the brand. Despite the designer’s steadfastness about making it on his own, he has no shortage of fans backing him.Still, despite the lofty expectations, Sulvam’s Fall collection justified the hype. The camo prints, candy stripes, and glittering chain-mail knits were boldly layered together, and a fine pastel pink sweater was a confident touch that paid off, as was the unhidden pattern work. A pattern cutter by trade (Fujita learned the ropes at Yohji Yamamoto before starting Sulvam), he left little clues of his technical background throughout the lineup, like open seams, white overlocking over black pinstripes, and a safety pin holding together the front of a silk blouse or left fastened to a black necktie. Speaking about the rough-hewn, deconstructed hems, Fujita said, “Once I make the pattern perfectly, then I begin to destroy it. A designer must be able to make perfect things first, then you can play with it.”Self-referential ribbons embossed withSulvamstreamed from waistlines, were tied choker-like around the neck, or flew freely from sneakers to resemble undone shoelaces. One might also imagine them tying up a Sulvam boutique shopping bag in a few years’ time. And although adulation can be intoxicating, Fujita should enjoy it: The applause and whoops heard when the designer came out for his bow are rare at Tokyo fashion shows.
|
Ashley Ogawa Clarke
|
March 27, 2017
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/58d928e78b60b61a3c1d0fb6/master/w_1280,c_limit/sulvm_004.jpg"
] |
tokyo
|
fall
|
2017
|
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] |
|
Sunflower
|
copenhagen-spring-2025
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/copenhagen-spring-2025/sunflower
|
For the second season, Sunflower uprooted itself temporarily from Copenhagen to show in Paris during menswear. (Vogue Runway saw the collection in Denmark.) Observing that men still seem to want to “dress up again in a real masculine way,” according to designer Ulrik Pedersen, the brand continues to focus on both suiting and denim. “If you go 10, 15 years back in Scandinavia, you had the casual brands doing [casual] like we did at NN.07, and then you had the suit brands doing suits, but there was nobody doing a mixture of both,” said Pedersen, referring to the brand he cofounded and ran for eight years before selling. “We always liked the look of denim and a suit jacket.”Proving the point was a beautifully tailored blazer with gold buttons, styled in the look book with dark jeans or leather pants. He also added gilded buttons to a blue leather blazer. It wasn’t theTake Ivykind of preppy Pedersen was after but something he dubbed “rock-and-roll preppy.” Polo shirts in the lightest knits came in highlighter pink.There was a surfeit of shorts suits and looks; the point is quickly made. Among the stand-alone styles in the collection was a military-style jacket with patch pockets and a nicely constructed curved sleeve. Pedersen, who has a special way with denim, showed deep blues and undyed jeans styles; take note of the cream-colored patchwork pair. Also noteworthy was a rust-colored work jacket and pants made of an unbelievably soft and pliant Japanese denim that drapes beautifully.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
August 14, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/66b9e1d6dadd41096f8fb911/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-sunflower-spring-2025-ready-to-wear-copenhagen-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
copenhagen
|
spring
|
2025
|
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] |
|
Sunflower
|
copenhagen-fall-2024
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/copenhagen-fall-2024/sunflower
|
Sunflower’s take on the trending ’80s was informed by New York’s two poles during that decade: Punk and Power. On paper, Richard Hell and Gordon Gekko might make strange bedfellows, but their sartorial codes wove together nicely in the Danish brand’s fall collection, which was presented on the runway in Paris, and shown to Vogue Runway in Copenhagen. Pinstripes coexisted nicely with actual silver metal coated jeans. Ties were back, coats were longer, and a reversible shearling vest topped a classic pant suit.Bling, flash, logos…they’re tired, said Ulrik Pedersen. “Men would like to dress up, men are ready again to look sharp.” To appeal to a generation of men who haven’t worn suits before, he continued, “you also need movement, you need maybe to work with more technical fabrics that have some kind of stretch in it, because I don’t think we are there where the young people want to look like their Dads; you need to play around with the look.” That’s Sunflower’s m.o., actually, and they delivered on it with a collection that walked a line between trad and bad (meaning good).
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
February 5, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/65c13c4d7daa9a262c26687f/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-sunflower-copenhagen-fall-2024-menswear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
copenhagen
|
fall
|
2024
|
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]
] |
|
Sunflower
|
copenhagen-spring-2024
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/copenhagen-spring-2024/sunflower
|
The 1980s surprise promised at the Sunflower show was a live performance by the Danish band Laid Back whose 1984 and 1981 hits, “White Horse” and “Sunshine Reggae” charted internationally. This was the second live music performance of the day (Silvana Imam appeared at Stamm) and the audience sang and danced along. Ulrik Pedersen’s collection consisted of remasters of classic menswear pieces and reprises of Sunflower favorites. Though a chore jacket and moto vest combo and a tuxedo jacket and floral boxers set seemed disparate, somehow they all came together in a cohesive tune.“The element of classic menswear for Sunflower is still an important thing, and then to play around with how to style it to make it not too classic,” is how Pedersen summed things up. Straightforward is a useful adjective for his designs. It’s difficult to articulate just what it is that gives the brand its edge, but like a catchy tune, it hits the right notes for many people. Pedersen reports that the age-range of his customers is broad and that about half of those buying Sunflower are women, although menswear is the primary focus.Dandies and rockers walked the runway today. Sunflower’s take on the popular pseudo jean (worn with a matching chore jacket) was made of a Japanese jacquard that was woven with denim. Seemingly workaday was a similar set in unbleached denim, but the pants were cut with curved seams to create shape and comfort. Other styles with a ’70s vibe seemed born to rock, or perhaps to ride Laid Back’s mythic white horse.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
August 8, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/64d289b681df46060572121b/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-sunflower-spring-2024-ready-to-wear-copenhagen-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
copenhagen
|
spring
|
2024
|
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|
Sunflower
|
copenhagen-fall-2023
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/copenhagen-fall-2023/sunflower
|
Despite its name, Sunflower is a citified brand with the kind of inherent tenacity more associated with the proverbial weed growing through a crack in concrete. Copenhagen, despite its idyllic aspects, is a capital with some grit, which is how creative director Ulrik Pedersen and co-owner/founder Alan Blond like it.Not for them are polished show venues and perfect styling. They presented their fall collection in the cramped confines of their showroom on a cast that included local musicians. The nominal theme was supergroups, “the idea being that each look has what it takes to be the frontman,” the press release stated. That’s a catchy summation, and it points in the direction of the values driving the brand. “For us it’s more important that we catch the right people instead [of following trends],” said Pedersen during a walkthrough.The brand name takes the singular form, not the plural (sunflowers are usually grown en masse in fields), and you get the sense that Pedersen and co. have built the brand on a belief in an individual’s ability to choose what they want to wear and how to wear it. “Here in Europe people rely on the brand name,” he notes, rather than build their own style. His approach is to make what he and his friends like to wear and hope others like the vibe. It’s not a total look Sunflower pushes, in fact Pedersen advocates for mixing casual pieces and tailored ones, sort of like how a DJ makes a playlist. This isn’t a new idea, but it’s one that feels authentic to the brand, which is rapidly expanding in Asia.Sunflower’s make your own rules approach means that the collection, at first glance, has no throughline; there’s a little bit of this, a little bit of that. The relationship between a smashing pair of pink corduroys or a shirt made out of a groovy jacquard to the tailoring that was the main theme of the season is difficult to trace, apart from the fact that they all relate back to the Sunflower universe. More coherence would be welcome, and would have complemented the (relative) tightening up of this collection as Pedersen moved it in a sharper and dressier direction. A return to tailoring, noted Blond, is really a return to their roots after a Covid-imposed break from it. Pedersen’s aim was to look at “suiting in a more contemporary way; the contrast of having something really relaxed with something really sharp is something we believe a lot in.”
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
February 7, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/63daa6f719265eabda8e6033/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-sunflower-fall-2023-copenhagen-credit-simon-birk.jpg"
] |
copenhagen
|
fall
|
2023
|
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]
] |
|
Sunflower
|
copenhagen-spring-2023
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/copenhagen-spring-2023/sunflower
|
Menswear is what everyone is buzzing about in Copenhagen this season, and Sunflower (which according to its Web bio operates as a collective) is one of the reasons why. The brand has been putting on memorable shows irregularly over the past years. One was in a rough-looking parking lot, another was presented in a public park over lunch hour with no seating, just models walking down the garden path. This season’s show was a makeshift, standing-room-only affair set up in the courtyard outside the company’s offices. “This is our daily playground,” said founder Ulrik Pedersen shortly after Anton Falck performed a song with lyrics that included “all the pretty boys”—quite apt considering what came down the runway.Pedersen, whose previous gig, NN.07, was a source for amazing sweaters, launched Sunflower in 2018. Asked what his mission was, he said “to design real menswear for real men and girls,” which he clarified, meant classics that were not so very classic, the difference being fit and materials. The marbleized pattern he used this season is a Japanese jacquard meant for interiors for example. Leather and cowboy boots are signatures of the brand, and they add a bit of unexpected kick to the offering. It’s difficult to find the right words to explain the appeal of Sunflower, which makes use of trad silhouettes that are not quite traditionally tailored. It’s indie, without being achingly hipster. Like the flower it takes its name from, Sunflower’s designs are like seeds that the wearer makes bloom.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
August 11, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/62f4ebbab21defbbac984a2c/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-sunflower-copenhagen-spring-2023-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
copenhagen
|
spring
|
2023
|
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] |
|
Sunnei
|
spring-2025-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/sunnei
|
You wouldn’t expect anything less than radical from Sunnei’s Simone Rizzo and Loris Messina as they marked their 10th anniversary. There wasn’t a traditional birthday cake in sight at their show; instead, it offered a reflection on aging, the passage of time, and growing older. But in true Sunnei fashion, it was irreverent and far from conventional. The entire cast consisted of individuals of a certain age, artists and friends of the house not younger than 70 or 80, proudly showcasing their wrinkles and graying hair with absolute aplomb.They looked fantastic (and inspiring) in Sunnei’s straightforward designs, which this season took a celebratory turn for the theatrical. A cotton shirred top featured a humongous cloudlike ruched capelet; an impactful, voluminous trapeze dress with billowing proportions was printed with bold diagonal stripes; and enigmatic illustrations by Messina’s mother, Marylène Fantoni, from the 1980s were reproduced on what resembled a kooky ball gown—the first specimen of Sunnei couture perhaps?Ten Years Feel Like a Hundred was the title of the show, staged in the minimalist, polished white gallery of art-world powerhouse Lia Rumma. Marina Abramović and Juergen Teller sat on small wood stools alongside a select group of loyal friends and editors who have supported the label’s bravado over the past decade. “We’re turning 10 and we still haven’t managed to get a Wikipedia page,” they joked amid the joyful mayhem that followed the show.For once, they chose not to over-ruminate on the deeper meaning of their performative show, leaving the audience to reflect on what was likely the first fashion show in history with an all-senior cast. The message was powerful enough to need time to sink in. “It can’t be fully conveyed in words, and that’s intentional,” they explained. However, true to their intellectual nature, they still offered their own insights.“Nobody knows what Sunnei will look like in 90 years—and none of us will be here to witness it,” they mused. “These past 10 years have been so intense, they felt like a century. So we thought, why not stretch that idea and project the fashion show a hundred years into the future, to 2124? We wanted to enter a no-time zone—a distorted future where time becomes so dense that it almost dissolves, ceasing to exist. No trends, no overthinking, no overdesign. There’s no pressure or anxiety about growth, whether personal or as a brand—the obsession with constant growth is absurd. The fashion industry is aging. Milan is aging. We’re merely amplifiers of these paradoxes. There’s no need to celebrate anything. Age is irrelevant—whether it’s 10, 100, 2, or 85. They’re just numbers. There’s no melancholy or sorrow in growing older. At Sunnei, nobody is old.”
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
September 21, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/66edda4b96c7e0f772dbe63a/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-sunnei-spring-2025-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2025
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Sunnei
|
fall-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-ready-to-wear/sunnei
|
The Sunnei designers are mercurial and unpredictable. They like to unsettle and provoke, but their nerdy sense of humor makes their show (more performative interaction than conventional fashion week material) a moment of clever entertainment sandwiched between not equally as clever and entertaining shows. The fashion industry and its paradoxes are a favorite target of their critique.
This season they treated their audience to a more intimate gathering, held in the showroom space of cc-tapis, a company that produces rugs created by artists or designers. The models walked on a huge 72-square-meter striped carpet, unfolded right before the show started. What were they up to? “We asked ourselves: what does a model think when she/he walks the rehearsed walk in front of the audience?” The musical score was replaced by voiceovers, 30 of them for the 30 models, that supposedly described what was in their minds. “Who ever cares about what models are thinking when they perform?” asked Simone Rizzo. “This season we’re giving a stage to their mental spaces—just to create a new layer of madness,” added Loris Messina. Here a few examples of possible mental formations during a catwalk walk:
Look #10: “Okay. Walk straight. Don’t bite your lips. Try not to fall. Walk straight. Fuck. The bag is falling.”
Look #16: “Nah, nah man, these clothes are nice but put together like this… We all look like a bunch of clowns. Gosh this brand. They want us to look ridiculous or what?”
Look #23: ”Imagine an imaginary menagerie manager managing an imaginary menagerie. Imagine an imaginary menagerie manager managing an imaginary menagerie.”
Look #26: “Oh gosh… The noise in my stomach. Oh gosh, I can’t wait to eat some pasta. Mmmm, Italian pasta, fusilli, ravioli, risotto. Mmmm…”
Look #30: The world is on fire and we’re talking about fashion? These people are so superficial. I can’t do this anymore. Jesus. Look at them. Look. The blonde in the second row, she thinks her review will change the world.”
The hilarious commentary was actually a smart way to keep the focus on the co-ed collection, limiting the audience participation of previous performances that somehow distracted from the clothes, which here could be seen up-close. The feel was that of a more elevated offer; the Sunnei repertoire of wardrobe basics looked more polished and concise. Oversized jumpers in fluffy mohair with matching berets and trailing scarves were standouts. Humongous puffers in colorful satin came with interchangeable covers like a bedroom duvet; a few pieces were crafted from a striped rug fabric in collaboration with cc-tapis and put together with snaps, so when un-snapped they can return to their original carpet stage. “We aren’t interested in fashion trends, we want to offer our audience an artistic journey that is food for thought.” Craziness and cleverness—a combo the Sunnei designers manage with consummate aplomb.
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
February 24, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/65d8d2c92c00736c8f18e213/master/w_1280,c_limit/FIO00016.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Sunnei
|
spring-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/sunnei
|
One goes to Sunnei’s shows with feelings of anticipation bordering on anxiety. Knowing that the interaction with the audience is part of the game, one doesn’t know what to expect. The label keeps us on our toes. So far, we’ve never been disappointed, anxiety notwithstanding. It has been quite consistently brilliant.This time we had to trek to a desolate, uninspiring television studio in the middle of nowhere, where, after taking our seats in a cavernous theater as if we were to participate in a cheap reality show, we were handed numbered paddles and asked to rate each of the outfits in the show. While we waited in the dark space, we were entertained by a rather disquieting recorded voice blasting out messages, sort of aphorisms à la Sunnei: “Expressing your opinion feels great, do it now!” “This time you’ll be more than just a part of the show’s set design!”Simone Rizzo and Loris Messina use fashion as social commentary; they do it with a sharp, almost ferocious wit that is utterly endearing. “We start from the urge we feel to unravel paradoxes, translating that into artistic gestures,” said Rizzo. Here, demystifying the destructive power of media was on the agenda. “Everyone has an opinion, everyone is a judge, an advocate, a writer, a reviewer, and there’s a widespread blah blah, [and the idea that] all opinions are legit regardless of whether they’re grounded in knowledge,” chimed in Messina. So they give the audience permission to unleash their murderous inner fashion critic. “Sunnei is the opportunity to not hate fashion,ancora!” admonished the booming voice. “Having an opinion is natural, just release it! Follow your gut! Don’t overthink, just judge!”The collection certainly scored high. The pace was fast, focused; the looks were reduced to just 30. “We already have too much information in the world,” stated Messina. If only more designers listened, fashion would be a much healthier place instead of being perennially overstuffed. What the Sunneis sent out was a concise proposition that riffed on their best-ofs—exaggerated volumes they called Maxi Over pitted against slender silhouettes in the Ultra Stretch category.Surfaces were treated with a textural approach; rubber was reused from bags’ leftovers; layering was consistent with the practical need for protection. Illusionistic effects were as inventive as they were disquieting, as in a dress in sheer organza, onto which the scanned image of a naked body was 3D-printed. Subsequently, an entire look—underwear, a pair of trousers, a shirt—was also scanned and printed onto separate layers of organza, which were then assembled into a sort of mille-feuille dress. Making it must have been labor-intensive: The dress looked like a pretty amazing specimen of next-level trompe l’oeil.Speaking about their creative mindset, Messina said, “We’re becoming more and more introspective in how we relate to our work. We continuously revisit, hone, and perfect what we’ve done since the beginning.” The designers are quiet, obsessive radicals. “There’s no middle ground,” they said in unison.
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
September 22, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/650e04fcc15bd8b4bad7c724/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-sunnei-spring-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Sunnei
|
fall-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/sunnei
|
One has to expect the unexpected and then some when heading to a Sunnei show. Although the team has staged various memorable performances—if you scroll through the VR reviews you’ll have an idea of how their shows can be bonkers in the most exquisite, nerdy way—today they surpassed themselves.Staging a crazy crowdsurfing fashion show at the Palazzina Sunnei was the last frontier of Sunnei-ism, a status on par with Gucci-fication, or Prada-ness, terms that ratify a sort of uniqueness. Because yes, the Sunneis are a unique, peculiar entity—provocateurs with a tech conscience, sharp-minded and mathematical. Poetically algorithmic. Cautiously successful. With a fierce sense of community. In a word, brilliant.They’re also quite the shrewd, meticulous showmen. In the stark white showroom of their headquarters today, they squeezed the audience like sardines around a tall white box catwalk, at the end of which their whole team—assistants, designers, web whizzes, product managers, accountants—wearing outfits from the fall collection, dived into the friendly mosh pit of the exhilarated, delighted, exultant audience. It was a rare fashion moment of participative, loudly joyous fun. For their finale, Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo also took their bows in a triumphant act of crowdsurfing.“This show is the greatest expression of Sunnei-ism,” enthused Rizzo. “It’s about freedom, trust, confidence, taking risks, interaction, participation. When we work on collections, we crystallize it into a suspended image. We wanted to celebrate our team, as they are our daily inspiration. And we wanted the audience to participate in a circular moment of beauty and freedom. We thought at crowdsurfing as an intense act of purification, a cathartic ritual of unconditional trust.”And what about the collection? Obviously the situation didn’t make it very readable, but flashes of fluorescent colors, flares of crocheted fur textures, and bursts of flocked denim were absorbed by the audience’s over-stimulated senses. It was enough to get the Sunnei energy for uncomplicated, wearable, cool fashion. Messina and Rizzo consider Sunnei as a cultural container rather than a fashion company, yet their designs are considered and attractive, clearly perfect for vigorous activities.Swallowed by backstage mayhem, Rizzo and Messina weren’t up for a deep-dive into exegesis; they handed over the show notes, on which the portraits of all the members of the team were printed. Below are some of the quotes they wrote to prep the audience for the crowdsurfing experience.“1. Leave your expectations outside this building. Drop preconceptions, shake off assumptions. 2. Now, forget perfectly perfect perfection and welcome reality. 3. Okay, you’ve finally entered a Sunnei state of mind.”
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
February 24, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/63f8fe7187b87f49f7a32b7d/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-sunnei-fall-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Sunnei
|
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/sunnei
|
Sometimes in fashion weird things happen—part magical, part spooky. The very same ideas and inspirations travel unpredictably in the ether from designer to designer, and, unbeknownst to them, get teleported and pop out in their fashion shows. This was the case at today’s Sunnei presentation, which shared the idea of twins with no less than Alessandro Michele, whose Gucci show was staged just hours before with a similar casting of twin models.“We’ve been working on our concept for months on end, and getting the twin casting right was quite the nightmare,” said Simone Rizzo with a hint of despair in his voice. “Our concepts are clearly different, but still…” chimed in Loris Messina. “What can you do? But it’s okay. You just keep marching on.”There’s always a social commentary in Sunnei’s practice, and this season the designers’ show, “which actually was more of a performative act,” they said, was about how the fashion system can alter the perception of identity, distorting the sense of self into multiple, often illusory and fractured representations. The rather highfalutin and abstruse concept seemed impossible to be rendered in fashion show form, but the Sunneis have the stubbornness of conviction and were unfazed by the challenge.Their Palazzina Sunnei was transformed into a white box, a sort of daunting operating room. Guests were asked to wear surgical protective overshoes. At the end of the catwalk, a revolving door opened into mysterious nothingness. That’s when the identical twins situation came into play. Sitting among the audience, one of the twins, dressed in their own clothes, walked through the revolving door, while the other twin emerged from the opposite rotating side dressed to the nines in Sunnei’s spring collection, with full-on makeup and the appropriate coiffure.“It’s a metaphor of how fashion can act as a transformative force, which is as magical as it is utterly crazy,” the designers explained after the engaging yet rather puzzling show. As for the collection, it was quintessentially Sunnei, with plenty of utilitarian pieces cut with clarity of purpose and a playful, sunny side. “It doesn’t need many explanations,” they said. “We just update it season after season like software.”
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
September 23, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/63303d055708bba7257ac3b0/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-sunnei-spring-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Sunnei
|
fall-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/sunnei
|
Social commentary always lurks in the background of Sunnei’s practice. The pandemic has offered Simone Rizzo and Loris Messina plenty of open questions to chew on, fashion being rich food-for-thought territory, with game-changing actions still slow to come about within the industry.For starters, fashion’s high-pitched, fast-paced beat hasn’t slowed down, and running from one physical show to the next has become normality again—digital presentations already seem archeological. Collateral effects of frenzy, stress and nerve-racking timetables are once again part of the picture, despite all the good intentions flaunted when the fashion world was in a state of pandemic shock.Their fall show seemed a good occasion for Messina and Rizzo to pick up on our collective scatterbrained state. They rallied their community in an open air set on the outskirts of Milan, where they orchestrated a sort of “performance within the performance” as they called it, with the audience commanded to stand on metal benches, facing the sidewalk near a wall of an industrial building. “We wanted to make people stop for a moment and reflect on what’s happening, especially today, which is such a delicate, disquieting moment,” said the designers. With Russia and Ukraine clashing violently, and war looming on the horizon, the mood was one of uncertainty and worry. Today, fashion felt both reassuring and irrelevant.Instead of walking, models came running along the wall, while the audience was invited to follow the show in slow motion through their iPhones. As a sort of metaphoric “crystallization of the moment,” as the designers called it, it was quite fitting—and also good fun. The Sunneis are not moralists, intending to chastise the industry—in the end, they’re as much a part of it as the rest of us, running around like crazy. They keep their refreshing sense of humor, but their execution is always impeccable. Fall’s cinematic set was made in collaboration with Studio 2050+, whose founder Ippolito Pestellini, is an OMA alumni.As for the collection, it was quite hard to see the details with models running at lightening speed, but the clothes looked fit for such an athletic performance. “We’ve used a new technical fabric that extends and stretches, perfect for layering,” said the designers. They riffed on their core items, “focusing on what we do best, experimenting on making our favorite shapes more extreme and radical, without detracting from their identity and character.” While keeping their offer sleek and minimal, they went quite eclectic, playing with colors and textures with a more tactile appeal on balaclava-capes in furry wool and chenille woven into wavy 3D motifs. “We tried to upgrade our collection to the max,” they said. “It’s the first one we’ve made with the help of a strong, structured new team, with creatives coming from everywhere in what we call ‘liquid collaboration.’ We said we wanted Milan to be at the intersection of creativity, to be open and making a difference. So far, we’ve kept our word.”
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
February 24, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6217983a1ef3167e6da0f6bc/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-sunnei-fall-2022-ready-to-wear-milan-credit-filippo-fior-gorunway.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2022
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Sunnei
|
spring-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-ready-to-wear/sunnei
|
For all their inveterate minimalism, Sunnei’s Simone Rizzo and Loris Messina love a grand gesture. Today’s show was held in a vast warehouse, where a massive 180-foot parallelepiped-cum-tunnel was installed smack in the middle, painted in a blinding, almost clinical shade of white, which made it look like some kind of entity floating absurdly in mid-air. Said object was designed by Milan’s 2050+ studio, founded by former OMA architect Ippolito Pestellini Laparelli, who has no shortage of über-cool projects under his belt. He’s part of Sunnei’s artistic community, which recently gathered to fête the opening of Salone del Mobile (Furniture Fair), dining in al fresco splendor on an extra-long communal table set up in the street which runs outside Palazzina Sunnei, the four-story building which is their creative beehive.To make the life of their guests not exactly easy, the Sunneis had the audience not sitting but standing, not before having struggled to find where to stand, as each assigned spot was marked with an undetectable white-on-white number. It didn’t help that sunglasses—called Prototipo 3, which looked like goggles held in place by a sort of seat belt—were distributed at the entrance to help protect the eyes from a furious blast of white light that marked the show’s start. After that, everything went pretty smoothly.Rizzo and Messina have always experimented with a variety of different media to present their collections—avatars, videos, all sorts of abstruse digital renditions. This was their first physical show in a long time; the proximity of the audience to the diverse cast of models (friends, members of the design studio, guys and girls working in various capacities at Palazzina Sunnei) made it possible to get a real appreciation of Sunnei’s accomplishments as designers. They expanded their restrained fashion vocabulary to include a broader range of options—unafraid of playing with color, layering with gusto, perfecting silhouettes, juxtaposing volumes and proportions with balanced punch.Pushing the Sunnei envelope, they introduced unexpected decorative flourishes of beading and fringing, which gave some swing to their otherwise quite firm, solid shapes: a beaded and fringed top paired with pooling XXL slacks was a standout, as was a pair of extra-heavy trousers entirely covered in tiny beaded fringes—the show’s pièce de résistance. Equally captivating was an abstract floral motif, inspired by the pictures that Rizzo’s father takes of herbaria and rare plant species; it was printed on a pale-blue denim ensemble in delicate watercolor-like transparencies or in brighter tones on elasticated rubberized cotton, ruched, and molded into a form-fitting top-skirt two-piece.Rizzo and Messina were already dead-serious digital geeks and savvy businessmen; now they’re confidently growing into accomplished designers and entertainers—in their pristine, slightly clinical, exacting way. Yet they nurture a sense of community that’s warm and authentic. In the Milanese fashion landscape, which often lacks truly unconventional and inventive talents, they’re unique creative specimens.
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
September 24, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/614e3485cb366e0df43974d6/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Sunnei-Spring-22-RTW-Milan-Credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2022
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Sunnei
|
spring-2022-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-menswear/sunnei
|
Sunnei’s Simone Rizzo and Loris Messina are minimalists when it comes to style and maximalists when technology is involved. Their Palazzina Sunnei is a sort of immaculate parallel universe where a plethora of avatars, 3D video screens, scanning paraphernalia and massive sound system walls reign supreme. Yet the atmosphere is lo-fi and preternaturally serene; the very young, very nice, very good looking people moving softly about the three-story space look more like members of a hip creative community than actual employees of a fashion brand. They all seem rather happy to be there.“When we started Sunnei from scratch in 2015, it was just the two of us,” said Rizzo during an in-person appointment. “Today we provide jobs for thirty people. It’s our greatest pride.” They celebrated their crew by having them morphed into avatar superstars wearing the third installment of their Canvas project—a personalized selling model so progressive and innovative it’s currently the subject of a case study for fashion graduates at NABA and Politecnico, two major universities in Milan.From the accountant to the temporary CEO to the receptionist, all avatars looked cool in their customized Canvas outfits, cut with generous proportions following the minimalistic, straightforward template the designers favor. In the airy showroom space of the Palazzina, the collection’s samples were neatly displayed, ready to be personalized by buyers and retailers, either online on a dedicated platform or via physical appointments. Starting this season, Sunnei’s customers and enthusiasts can also order their DIY wardrobe of wide-legged drawstring pants, oversized hoodies and knitted jumpers in the fabrications, prints and colors of their liking. The outfits will be made and shipped in the record time of two weeks. “Sunnei is about extreme practicality applied to the madness of our radical virtual narrative,” joked Messina.The Canvas project reduces overproduction waste to a minimum, as samples are limited and production is tailored to the customized quantities eventually sold. “Sustainability for us isn’t only sourcing organic materials or upcycling deadstocks,” said Rizzo. “What’s important for us is to create intelligent circular processes to radically change the system.” It sounds like a manifesto of two utopian digital alchemists, but Sunnei’s achievements so far are proof that whenever Rizzo and Messina set their eyes on a goal, however ambitious it may be, they’ll probably make it happen.
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
June 19, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/60cca61b2cfadc3b9408e244/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Sunnei-Menswear-Spring-2022-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2022
|
menswear
|
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]
] |
|
Sunnei
|
fall-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/sunnei
|
Sunnei’s projects are more the artistic outcome of a web of like-minded creatives than fashion renditions of a moment in time. Designers Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo have been consistent with this practice since the inception of their label. Today they’re the tip of the iceberg of a dynamic movement shaping Milan’s fashion future; it’s based on communal creative experiences, where bringing together shared visions and expertise is much more valuable than solipsistic celebrations of egos.Messina and Rizzo are digital natives. They look down with polite condescension at designers scrambling to catch up on the latest technology and collateral digital paraphernalia; they smile at the widespread “digital performance anxiety,” as they call it. Nonetheless for fall they came up with a humorous, lo-fi critique of the cybernated time we all spend around the multiple devices infesting our quarantined lives.“We looked at the non–physical reality of the space behind our iPhones,” said the designers during (of course) a Zoom call. They wanted to achieve the impossible mission of making it real, tactile. How to make the virtual entities perceptible as if they were tangible? How to make an infinite space with no limits relatable as if it were finite? While I was scratching my head virtually, they quickly answered: “For the look book, photographer Alessio Bolzoni had the models look as if they had crashed on a screen—bang! They looked squashed on the surface on the phone screen, very close to us. You have the feeling that they can actually be touched. Scrolling through our digital images on Vogue Runway’s feed should feel as realistic as possible.”In Sunnei’s fall look book, the models seem to be trying to escape from the perfect fashion shows held in the illusory, frigid “behind the screen” infinity. Clothes appear creased, crushed, and distorted; if you enlarge each image, the textures of the outfits pop up in sharp focus, blown up to 3-D effect. They seem almost tactile. To achieve that effect, the collection was made with nonflat but textural, visually dense fabrications: extra-large-ribbed velvets, quilted and padded paper nylons, crinkled cottons. Denim was elasticized and embroidered or lacquered and embossed. Imperfections were embraced as spontaneous creative accidents. “It’s the screen that molds the garments,” said the designers.
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Tiziana Cardini
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February 28, 2021
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[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/603a9c8c4771cc415890863a/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-sunnei-RTW-fall-21.jpg"
] |
fall
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2021
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ready-to-wear
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] |
|
Sunnei
|
fall-2021-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-menswear/sunnei
|
The Sunnei community of artists, avatars and digital geeks has a new member: Angelino, the two-year-old French bulldog who is modeling the label’s first foray into dogwear.Angelino’s dedicated collection of striped padded coats and backpacks, engineered to comfortably accommodate him during walks with his owners, Sunnei designers Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo, isn’t the only new addition to the label’s growing roster of digital/physical activities (they abhor the word phygital, ‘trans-medial’ being a preferred option). This season the designers are expanding the efficiency of the progressive Canvas platform they launched a year ago, right at the beginning of the pandemic. It’s a platform intended to creatively engage the label’s retailers and buyers to create their own Sunnei collections digitally, assembling different outfits, choosing shapes, colors and fabrications as they see fit. After initial skepticism from some fashion industry pundits, the formula has proved extremely successful. It’s also sustainable, as it eliminates the need to produce huge sample collections that usually end up going to waste. The fact that it operates as a sort of video game was almost prescient, as other mega brands have been quick to pick up on the idea. But the Sunneis aren’t claiming ownership of anything—they’re too coolheaded for that. They’re just following their own path and trying to stay well ahead of the curve.Gaming has obviously become a big thing in fashion of late. Being digital natives, for Messina and Rizzo such language is just part of who they are. Presenting their expanded second Canvas collection during Milan Men’s Fashion Week through a video game was an organic extension of their experimental trans-medial practice, which is quite artistic in its own right. The video game will launch today on a dedicatedwebsite, with the duo introducing it virtually to their audience. Transformed into avatars of themselves, they will lead customers, editors and their community at large into a game “with no beginning, no end and no prize,” as they explained in a preview. “It’s a rather bizarre idea, we know,” they said. “The way it’s conceived, it underlines a sort of critique of the alienation gaming and extreme VR can induce. The virtualization trend isn’t going away anytime soon though: the decade from 2010 to 2020 was all about social media; the next one, from 2020 to 2030, will be the gaming decade,” they continued. “What we’ve worked at is something visually quite nostalgic, friendly,simpatico. We don’t like all those extremely aggressive VR optics, they’re actually quite scary. We like something almost melancholy, low-fi so to speak. Our avatars last season danced la macarena—they weren’t up for anything not-human, or worse, inhuman.”In this whirlwind of virtual action, is fashion at risk of getting lost along the way? The Sunneis don’t think so: they’re presenting what they call “highlights” of their actual collection, modeled by their friendly avatars, outfits they have edited and assembled following their personal taste. On the Canvas platform, every look can be dismembered and reassembled at a buyers’ whim. As usual with Sunnei, the collection was almost 60% genderless and, as the designers were keen to point out, ageless: shapes were streamlined, minimalist and forgiving, comfortable, able to accommodate diverse body types. Outerwear was puffed up and padded. Pieces can be layered at leisure. White is Sunnei’s favorite color (this is why the platform is called Canvas, as in a blank canvas), but more chromatic choices have been introduced this season to add a jolt of energy and humor—which are much needed today, more so than the hottest it bag or the latest hyper-glamorized sneaker. Gaming and virtual proficiency is all well and good, but no one, especially now, wants to look stark-white, dressed as if he came out of some science lab.
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
January 17, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/60040fbab65a217b967ed242/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Sunnei-FW-21.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2021
|
menswear
|
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]
] |
|
Suno
|
spring-2017-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/suno
|
Erin BeattyandMax Osterweishad good reason for skipping the fashion show this season, and showing their new collection by appointment instead. Surely, theSunoduo figured, it was apropos to introduce a collection inspired by the idea of privacy in, well, private. In aNew York Fashion Weekseason that’s been heavy on spectacle, Beatty and Osterweis’s decision to dial down the buzz machine was a refreshing one.And anyway, these clothes didn’t need to be seen on a runway. Most don’t. In the case of Suno’s latest, the garments were better appreciated up close, where you could palpate the textured silks and delicate jacquards, and make note of the unflashy details, like a blouse’s tie-back closure, or the sprays of delicate crystal and paillette embellishment on a sundress. As Beatty explained at an appointment this morning, the aim was to make clothes that felt personal, as personal as the wood-block prints by Mary Cassatt that originally inspired this collection. Those soft-focus domestic scenes were the jumping-off point for the gorgeous pastel prints here, the best and most distinctive of which was a graphic floral placement print engineered around a relaxed, below-the-knee day dress. The look put you in mind, a bit, of the tea dresses popular in the 1930s and 1940s, vintage versions of which go for a pretty penny these days; that kind of mix of refinement and easefulness is the right one for Suno to strike.After a few seasons of relatively clipped shapes, Beatty and Osterweis opened things up again here. The expansion in volume was accompanied by a few flirtatious touches—sheer materials, atypically abbreviated hemlines, a few more cold shoulders. But even the flashiest looks, like those in a gold-punctuated floral silk jacquard, had a sense of hush to them. These were clothes for living in, not being seen in. Though being seen in them would be perfectly fine.
|
Maya Singer
|
September 14, 2016
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/57d976099186bce754b3ab3a/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-suno-spring-2017-rtw.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2017
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Suno
|
resort-2017
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2017/suno
|
It’s easy to forget, these days, but the origins of the “Resort collection” were in travel: Luxury designers’ wealthy clientele made a habit of setting sail for warm climes in the snowy season, and thus, starting in the 20th century, were catered to with mini-collections fit for the annual pilgrimage. The link between what Resort was, then, and what it is now, is tendril thin. ButErin BeattyandMax Osterweisseized it with a firm grasp for theirSunocollection this season. These were clothes for the woman who, like Forster’s Lucy Honeychurch, has her Baedeker out and her passage booked.A “Grand Tour” spirit threaded through the collection in various ways. There were a few very sly winks at Edwardian tourist aesthetics—nothing overt, just a smattering of tan-toned linens, full skirts, and floral prints and jacquards riffing on Western reinterpretations of chinoiserie. Mainly, though, Beatty and Osterweis went after the attitude one associates with intrepid female travelers of the steamship era, conjuring an attitude plucky yet genteel. The collection’s gingham and pinstripe and denim, for instance, had the winning lack of pretense one associates with clothes destined for a day on the hoof, while the coy silhouettes reflected both a bygone sense of modesty and, what with their winks of shoulder and collarbone, a modern boldness. Beatty and Osterweis also connived a few interesting tricks, such as knitting a slit into a ribbed pencil skirt, such that a blouse could be pulled through the back for a bustle-like effect. The collection wasn’t vintage-y, but it knew its history. And in its mix-and-matchability, it was well-suited for wanderlust.
|
Maya Singer
|
June 8, 2016
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5758b1fbb2b4aee0767d5315/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-suno-resort-17.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2017
|
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] |
||
Suno
|
fall-2016-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/suno
|
The latestSunoouting was an unexpectedly decorous affair. High necks, calf-scraping hemlines, plaid upon plaid, William Morris–esque wallpaper florals, touches of lamé—the collection put you vaguely in mind of the Bloomsbury Group, though that wasn’tErin BeattyandMax Osterweis’s theme. Rather, according to the duo, their aim was a twisted take on the traditional. Which, if you think about it, pairs up rather nicely with a Bloomsbury reference, given that Virginia Woolf, Vanessa Bell, E. M. Forster and their ilk were themselves highly gentrified ruckus-raisers. But if Beatty and Osterweis weren’t thinking Bloomsbury, that was no loss—the fact that they touched that nerve by accident meant that this collection stayed away from shopworn vintage tropes. These clothes felt functional and up-to-date.Beatty and Osterweis found a few ways of “twisting” their looks. One key idea was to play with the scale of prints, magnifying their plaids and florals to an almost surreal degree. A more subtle iteration of the same idea was to make their more subdued prints three-dimensional. To wit: the pinstripe laid into wool by a heavy stitch, or the raised texture of a pointillist, blossom-patterned jacquard. The other key idea here was, as Beatty explained, to introduce “explosive” elements to the clothes—oversize ties on coats and bows on high-neck blouses, for instance, or voluminous or elongated sleeves. These gestures helped to give the collection a dramatic kick; still, a sense of daintiness prevailed. Even bold metallic razzle-dazzle couldn’t quite dispel the ladylike tone of pleated dresses in a floral-print gold lamé or red Lurex knit. The relaxed silhouettes translated to an uncorseted take on the ladylike—another aspect of this collection that recalled Bloomsbury, in fact. “Twisted traditional” was one phrase to describe this Suno outing;liberated femininitycould be another.
|
Maya Singer
|
February 13, 2016
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/56bf8c638ccd6da73c5991d4/master/w_1280,c_limit/_MON0014.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2016
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Suno
|
spring-2016-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/suno
|
The first thingMax OsterweisandErin Beattywanted to talk about backstage at this morning’sSunoshow was the shoes. After umpteen seasons collaborating withNicholas Kirkwood, Suno has launched its own line of Italian-made footwear. Beatty said the goal was to create shoes that looked distinctive, but that were easy to wear: “Not too precious,” she explained, “but also not, you know, too fierce.”Not too precious/not too fierce also served as a good summation of the clothes on Suno’s runway. Inspired by a visit to the recent exhibition “When the Curtain Never Comes Down” at the American Folk Art Museum, the designers riffed on the practice of outsider artists who channeled compulsive mental states into their work. Their focus was on the ways that these artists would use geometry to create a sense of order—hence the collection’s repeating square patterns and numerous looks belted (Beatty used the apt wordrestricted) at the waist. One of the nice ways that Beatty and Osterweis got at their theme was by introducing little grace notes of off-ness, such as the seemingly random placement of gathers on items like the opening dress in gingham. They also made reference to the origin of their inspiration by using folksy techniques and fabrics—that gingham, for instance, but also eyelet, peasant blouse–style ruching, and denim. A calf-length denim skirt, shown with a matching belted minidress, was the best look in the show.
|
Maya Singer
|
September 16, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55f971354399ed4a7e86ef52/master/w_1280,c_limit/_MON0007.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2016
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Suno
|
resort-2016
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2016/suno
|
According to Suno's Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis, their starting point for the label's latest collection was "modern folk." The folk elements were pretty self-evident: naive floral prints and embroideries, cotton eyelet, and craft embellishments such as a macramé trim. The duo came at the modern, meanwhile, from a rather unexpected angle. If the collection were shorn of its folksiness, you'd take it as an elevated riff on prep, what with the emphasis on stripes, pleats, polo collars, and the color navy. This was also an unusually trim and tailored outing for Suno. The key silhouette, perhaps, was a lean pencil dress, buttoned off to the side. That close fit was echoed in the knit frocks and elaborated with some volume in dresses of glossy mikado featuring an empire waist or a skirt that erred toward the A-line. There were also tunic-shaped dresses and tops aplenty here, which relaxed the feel of the collection as a whole, but even these pieces had a kind of sharpness to them. Fluidity was strictly limited and given full expression only in a pair of floral georgette sundresses, layered one over the other in the lookbook. The Suno take on "folk" this season, in other words, was essentially hard-edged urbane rather than pastoral. Beatty and Osterweis freely used the familiar folksy motifs but put them to work in clothes that eluded the usual hippie-dippie clichés. It made for an appealing, if unexpectedly stern, update.
|
Maya Singer
|
June 4, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650b808298d8be214f7b8/master/w_1280,c_limit/suno-001-1366.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2016
|
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] |
||
Suno
|
fall-2015-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/suno
|
Madness is one of the great literary themes, and indeed a thread running in various ways through all the arts. Fashion is an outlier: Madness hasn't had much purchase here, perhaps because it's a psychological state difficult to articulate through clothes with any discipline or control. And so Suno duo Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis must be congratulated on their ambition this season, not only for addressing themselves to this interesting theme, but also for attacking it with real rigor, and from unexpected angles.Appropriately enough, the starting point for this collection was Bertha Mason, the "madwoman in the attic" inJane Eyreand in Jean Rhys' sultry Jamaica-set prequel,Wide Sargasso Sea. With those precepts in mind, Beatty and Osterweis moved between tropical floridity and haute bourgeoise formality, a dialogue expressed most vividly in the collection's varied florals, but also communicated via the trade between lean, constricted shapes and those soft and fluid. A few of the looks, such as a black printed silk dress with racy sheer panels, merged both tones in a striking way: The sheer lace seemed to have broken through the dress's decorous facade. Elsewhere, a prim shirtdress with an embroidered floral effusion gave a similar effect.The theme seemed to have pushed Beatty and Osterweis to try out some new silhouettes. This was Suno's most form-fitting collection, but also the one featuring its easiest shapes. On one hand, there was a very ribbed knit turtleneck dress, with a kind of lacquered tricolor stripe; on the other hand, there was a long, loose T-shirt dress in a sheer, iridescent jacquard with naive, Marimekko-ish flowers woven in. Both numbered among the collection's standouts. Less showy pieces were equally strong, too: The low-slung trousers were a case study in fashion sanity. (Beatty advised, after the show, that customers should buy a size up to mimic the runway fit.) Outerwear was a highlight as well, notably the big striped coat woven with fur, and the cozy ski sweaters will be a hit at retail, no doubt. The embroidered microflorals offered a dainty take on the handcraft that's a Suno signature.There was enough here to satisfy a loyal fan of the brand looking for more-of-same or, at any rate, more-of-similar. But the emphasis was on looks that may prove more controversial—as must be the case with any collection premised on expanding the brand vocabulary, as this one plainly was. This wasn't by any stretch a crazy collection, but it did burst with new ideas.
|
Maya Singer
|
February 13, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c651d608298d8be228f4f5/master/w_1280,c_limit/_A2X0019.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2015
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Suno
|
pre-fall-2015
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2015/suno
|
Changes are afoot at chez Suno. Behind the scenes, Erin Beatty just gave birth to her first child—and a big congrats to her for that. On the rails in the Suno showroom, meanwhile, the changes could be seen primarily in the colors anchoring the brand's new collection. Atypically, there was a lot of black and gray and navy at work here. But the darkening of the Suno palette didn't result in any dampening of the spirit; rather, it gave the label's signature vivid prints and jacquards a kind of twilit magic. It was nice to see Beatty and partner Max Osterweis testing a new tone.In other ways, the collection represented a continuation of themes, notably the craftwork emphasis that Beatty and Osterweis debuted last season. In some garments, that emphasis was plain, as on the gray dress and top featuring hand-loomed weaving on the front, or the pieces with a kind of necklace of beading and rough fringe. Elsewhere, the craft element was more suggested than felt, as in the dense texture of the multicolored gridded jacquard or the hand-painted effect of certain abstract and floral digital prints. But the most instantly winning looks offered another evolution of the Suno vocabulary: the several soft-structured midi dresses and tops, the best of which were the T-shirt dresses that featured fluttering, asymmetric layers of silk, and the navy peasant top starred with beads, like an exceptionally clear night sky. Simpler items, like the mottled ribbed knits, will get plenty of traction on the sales floor, but it was the ones with a palpable sense of romance that made your heart sing.
|
Maya Singer
|
January 6, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c651d008298d8be2287f4d/master/w_1280,c_limit/Suno_01_1366.jpg"
] |
pre-fall
|
2015
|
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] |
||
Suno
|
spring-2015-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/suno
|
Blame the heat, blame how dang early New York fashion week began, blame the lackluster collections, but the crowd was a little deflated before the start of last night's Suno show. Then out came the first look, a boxy jacquard jacket with neon-bright stripes and hospital scrub-blue cropped pants, and people perked right up. Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis specialize in a kind of offbeat practicality. It's a rarefied niche, but a growing one. Backstage, Beatty reported that the last two years have been positive for the brand. "It's a slow burn, but we'll take it," she said. And it doesn't hurt when Lupita Nyong'o wears your custom-made design to the CFDA Awards.This collection followed the Suno rules—everyday clothes for artsy, intellectual types—but it felt particularly energized. Chalk that up to the designers' great color sense, showcased on the multi-striped jacquard and the knits that followed, and to their confident way with prints. A sleeveless dress with violet flowers above the waist and a print of black and white cubes on its handkerchief hem will be a hit. It looked special without being the least bit precious. Elsewhere, a navy knit tank dress covered in a grid of white dots encapsulated Beatty's message about "never feeling too done, but never looking undone either." Talk about a mood lifter.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 5, 2014
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c651be08298d8be2273151/master/w_1280,c_limit/KIM_5766.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2015
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Suno
|
resort-2015
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2015/suno
|
Grounded.That was the word Erin Beatty used to sum up the tone of this season's Suno collection. According to Beatty and partner Max Osterweis, the goal this time out was to create clothing that felt solid and substantial and could operate as a fully functioning wardrobe. There was an emphasis on durable fabrics—denim; a squishy knit; a wool-nylon blend that, shaped into a blush-pink parka, served as the perfect mid-weight, trans-seasonal coat. For all the groundedness, though, there was also a sense of elevation. The excellent denim pieces here were paradigmatic, pairing easygoing shapes with some serious hand-embroidered crystal bling. As Beatty and Osterweis pointed out, they wanted there to be some handwork to all these clothes, something to make them feel personal and special. The denim was the most obvious example of that, alongside a few items in coated terry and in bouclé that also featured eye-catching embroideries. But the strategy was also evidenced more subtly in materials such as the black broderie anglaise with integrated covered stones. This collection boasted a textural richness on par with the richness of pattern and print that's long been a Suno signature. It also found Beatty and Osterweis hewing close to the body—very close, such as in the silhouettes of the fitted knit dresses. And even the oversize pieces didn't feel magnified so much as just slouchy. That was a grounding quality of this lineup as well—the shapes were realistic. The achievement here was that the designers put a little sparkle in the down-to-earth.
|
Maya Singer
|
June 4, 2014
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6514008298d8be21e2d81/master/w_1280,c_limit/Suno_001_1366.1366x2048.JPG"
] |
resort
|
2015
|
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] |
||
Suno
|
fall-2014-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2014-ready-to-wear/suno
|
Suno's Fall collection has a backstory too good not to retell. Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis' starting point this season was Jeremy Sutton-Hibbert's photographs of a Roma gypsy camp outside of Bucharest. Taken between 1990 and 2006, the pictures document a time of rapid change in the camp as the gypsies amassed wealth from the sale of scrap metal, trading in their tents for McMansions and their horses for Porsches paid for with cash.The rags to riches collection that appeared on the Suno runway was intended to echo that journey. At the start, fabrics were stiff and coarse, edges were left raw, and glorified shoelaces cinched necklines and seams. Slowly, the light was let in, with gold leaf on the shoulders of a fitted ribbed sweater or tracing the outside of a cardigan's sleeves. "Suno basics," Beatty called them. Multicolored stitched embroideries decorated the hem of a popover top and provided a template for the graphic stripes on a duchesse satin shift (one of the highlights of the show), as well as on fine knit dresses. By the end, Suno's gypsy girl was a techno raver, sporting a glitter jacquard dress with a built-in hoodie. Yes, the canvas-backed wools at the beginning will need to be adjusted before they hit the sales floors, but by and large Beatty and Osterweis managed the neat trick of making the down-to-earth pieces as desirable as the sparkly prizes at the end. Chalk that up to a savvy eye for proportion and the designers' trademark knack for mixing prints.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 7, 2014
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6513308298d8be21d53da/master/w_1280,c_limit/_ARC0010.1366x2048.JPG"
] |
fall
|
2014
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Supercomma B
|
seoul-fall-2017
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/seoul-fall-2017/supercomma-b
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/58daa80c8b60b61a3c1d1033/master/w_1280,c_limit/BK1_0028.jpg"
] |
seoul
|
fall
|
2017
|
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]
] |
||
Supercomma B
|
seoul-spring-2016
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/seoul-spring-2016/supercomma-b
|
Founder: Bohyun LeeYear established: 2015Known for: Unisex streetwear for sneakerheads and logomaniacsStocked at:supercommab.com
| null |
October 21, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5627927a67ac94683a93fcec/master/w_1280,c_limit/supercomma-b_001_ss16.jpg"
] |
seoul
|
spring
|
2016
|
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] |
|
Supriya Lele
|
fall-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-ready-to-wear/supriya-lele
|
Supriya Lele is one of those designers who’ve got into the rhythm of showing one season, and doing a lookbook next. Last time, she sent out something of a spectacular at the Barbican—a bold underlining of the delineation of her brief, draped sexy co-ordinates which succeed in blurring the distinctions between clothes, swimwear and lingerie. That was the Supriya Lele woman sorted out with a wardrobe for summer. For fall, the lookbook season, it was off to talk to the designer where she works.“I would say this season feels a lot more refined and elevated,” she said, by way of greeting. “And there are a lot more simpler things happening. Which I really love. It’s sort of finding pleasure in simplicity—small things like color, or just cut.” ‘Simple’ may not perhaps be the term that immediately springs to mind when you’re looking at a pair of cutaway black leather underpants, tightly belted at the waist, being worn with a black leather shirt with a pie-frill collar. Yet body-exposure is a positive choice that Lele and her sister generation of young female designers have normalized, and she has an audience for it.Lele’s photos evoke something of the locality—an ex-pharmacy, with a busy Bermondsey street glimpsed outside and a corner pub over the road. Upstairs in a ramshackle converted office building is Lele’s studio. It’s one snapshot of the young creativity that springs up through the London cracks, as it has always done—a factor which doesn’t detract from the quality of what she’s doing.“I started thinking about what I was actually wearing,” Lele said. “Every day, I’ve been wearing this baseball coat and slim jeans. And so we started by working into this idea with a really nice kind of leather piece.” It turned out as an over-the-head leather hoodie. The slim jeans part became fine-gauge leggings. “Then obviously, we started exploring the draping that I love to do so much, which I think has now become sort of more of a signature of mine. I wanted to create fabrics that looked wet, almost iridescent.”One dress—a white paisley lace, hand-foiled with pearlized paint ever so subtly underlined Lele’s Indian heritage. Others in gold, or cobalt blue, looked like photographic gels. Up close, on this appointment, it was also possible to see the quality of the fine gold and silver knitwear pieces Lele has been working on. Skimpy, but with fashion substance.
|
Sarah Mower
|
February 23, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/65cfda474474f18846ea44be/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-supriya-lele-fall-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Supriya Lele
|
spring-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/supriya-lele
|
Supriya Lele’s return to the runway for the first time in two years was well worth the wait. No matter that the runway was a carpark, the wattage her collection generated was quite sensational. “We were looking at Bruce Weber, Indian goddesses, and kind of Indian uncle tanks,” she said as her models were lining up.The “Indian uncle” turned out to be a white ribbed singlet grown into a bodysuit—a garment that defies categorization, as is typical of Lele’s work. Is it an under-garment, a swimsuit or something just meant to hang out in? The answer’s probably all three, because Lele’s design busts the boundaries between lingerie, swimwear, and ready-to-wear, and her following loves her for it.With time and experience she’s perfected ways to drape and fit and layer her pieces so that everything stays in place and looks classy. This is the avant garde movement around celebrating the female body she began developing well before the pandemic.Now she’s added more strings to her bow: lacy knitwear dresses, leather corset-bras “transforming the sari blouse from its colonial origins,” as her notes put it, and beautiful slim shoulder-bags amongst them. Close up, they have the kind of delicate placement of detail that’s typically a Lele touch—a line of “little Indian brass charms we 3-d printed—the shapes are basically from statues of classical Indian sculpture.”Halfway through the lineup was a look Lele pointed to, laughingly, as a kind of self-portrait. “These trousers are kind of like Indian shalwar kameez pants, but also a bit of old ’80s-style at the same time. And she’s got a black leather jacket. That’s how I see myself.”Walking the talk and wearing the looks is a creative power that women designers have. As daring as Lele’s brand seems, it’s working because it’s a functioning proposition that has all the angles meticulously test-driven by the designer herself.
|
Sarah Mower
|
September 19, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/650851d259c4fd7dc1f10a6b/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-supriya-lele-spring-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Supriya Lele
|
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/supriya-lele
|
There’s a sense that Supriya Lele has properly found her stride now—a confidence that comes from knowing she has the enthusiasm of friends behind her. A good sprinkling of that sisterhood was at the Belvoir Castle wedding of Tish Weinstock and Tom Guinness on Halloween weekend. “The dress code was black tie gothic. It was fun,” the designer said. She made her own dress for the occasion—long, black, with tiny side-ties, a fishnet under-dress, and a back twisted to reveal skin.There’s a shorter version in her spring lookbook. As she points out, the ties are there to adjust, according to how daring, or not, the owner might be feeling. There are a lot of those sorts of devices—adjustable apron dresses, tied halter-neck bodysuits, and ‘layering pieces’ going on in her design. “Working with sheer fabrics is a challenging thing,” she rightly observes. “They have little layers of linings and slips underneath, so you don’t have to show too much.”Lele’s handling of the finer points of skimpy dressing is an obvious cause of her growing popularity. Body-display is ragingly fashionable now, and likely to hit further heights by the time people like Lele’s friends will be migrating to Mediterranean resorts next year. What sets her style apart from her London contemporaries Nensi Dojaka and Charlotte Knowles are the elements of print and drape she connects with her Indian heritage.She pointed out the block-prints on the cotton shirting in the collection: “It’s done in India, in Madhya Pradesh, my family’s region.” The fishnet pieces—including the improbable but certainly Instagrammable luxury of boot-cut leggings—are also “embroidered with tiny sequins, in India.”Lele’s natural bent has always been to slip in a modernist approach to the tradition of sari-draping and bra-tops, not that it will ever read literally. This season, her shirts come with ribbony tails that are designed to make the garments knottable in a playful way, a complement to her adjustable jersey bodysuits—or is it swimwear? Multiple choice staves off summer fashion boredom, at any rate. “It looks very simple but it’s not, of course,” Lele smiled serenely.
|
Sarah Mower
|
November 4, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/63638da0bed27995a83705c5/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-supriya-lele-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Supriya Lele
|
fall-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/supriya-lele
|
Supriya Lele is one of the young leaders of the re-mapping of the female body in fashion. She was one of the first to suggest, design-wise, that showing the top of a hip or a slice of lower belly is something girls might want to do. How right her female-gaze suggestion was: Revealing bits of the anatomy their mothers would never have never have dared is now quite normalized.Lele knew she was really onto something during the pandemic, when orders for her well-cut, low-cut trousers with thong-like side straps started to spike. Look 15 in her runway show—pimento-red pants with a brown taffeta one-shouldered, cropped top proved how very good she’s become at honing and owning this look until it’s become on-point chic.This season she also made sure that her talent for swathing and asymmetically tying stretch georgette tops and satin, hip-riding pelmet skirts is something viable for all women. Paloma Elsser (who has probably been the most in-demand model at London Fashion Week) aided and abetted her point, along with a couple more women who broke Lele’s former over-reliance on mono-sized casting.The fall show also made her step up her outerwear, with excellently cool-looking funnel-necked jackets and coats in leather. Lele has a great eye for color and a clever instinct for knowing where her peers want to go with fashion. This collection raised the potential of her brand to the next level.
|
Sarah Mower
|
February 22, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6213b64a0b84a2f429d424b3/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Supriya-Lele-Fall-22-RTW-London-credit-Alessandro-Lucioni-Gorunway.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2022
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Supriya Lele
|
spring-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-ready-to-wear/supriya-lele
|
It’s official: the great body reveal of 2021 has arrived, and that wave is going to hit even bigger by next summer. Supriya Lele’s show said it; so did Nensi Dojaka and Charlotte Knowles. In London, the new trend for strappy, cutaway semi-sheer methods of arranging fabric on bodies is noticeably directed by young women for young women. Lele said it became rooted—in sales—at exactly the time when no one could leave her house. “We had such a huge increase in personal customers during lockdown that I’m feeling really positive,” she smiled backstage. “So I really wanted to push it this season.”What her direct sale customers have been after are more of her dresses, a particular top with a keyhole cut-out, and her figure-hugging pants with a faux thong strand implanted on one hip. “We work so hard on cut,” she said. “We tweak it, develop it each season. It’s difficult to get a well-cut trouser.”Serendipitously for Lele, her comeback to the runway is in a summer season in which she could give full rein to her gift for draping and asymmetric cutouts, finely-stranded chiffon ribbon details, and asymmetric shapes in layered transparencies. Her first look captured the strength and sophistication that’s been a mark of her work: a dramatic deep brown ruched leather halter with a gathered keyhole, and a pair of sheer chiffon cuffed pants.Look closer, and you can detect the hints of Indian clothing that have been part of Lele’s body of work since at least 2017, when she showed her first presentation with Fashion East. So, those pants? “I suppose they’re a bit like Indian pajamas,” she said. Also present: the ruched bras and cropped tops from sari tradition
which this British-born Indian talent has subtly wrapped into her way of designing.Like her sister London designers, Lele creates a space that blurs the distinctions between garments. A top is a bodysuit is a swimsuit. Underwear, outerwear—who’s counting any more? Lele means her women to be able to layer things their own ways. An outstanding piece was a sheer cotton mesh polo shirt with tiny sequins, made by embroiderers in India.There’s a generation that doesn’t need an instruction manual to know how to play with these kinds of clothes in their own ways. Still, it’s a pity that none of these three London-based female leaders with sexually confident ideas have yet to catch up with the wholly inclusive body positivity that the New York shows have normalized.
|
Sarah Mower
|
September 20, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/614874798d405c134e33426f/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Supriya-Lele-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2022
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Supriya Lele
|
fall-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/supriya-lele
|
There’s a curious resurgence of the early noughties currently sweeping through fashion: a collective yearning for a time which, through the rose-tinted lens of nostalgia, appears far more alluring than the one we currently inhabit. “It’s just fun, isn’t it?” grins Supriya Lele. “It’s kind of sassy, but it’s tongue-in-cheek.” In the age of Instagram irony, Paris Hilton, low-slung waistbands, and knowingly naff prints are clearly resonating with a generation, but through the lens of Lele’s latest collection the visual signposts of the era adopt an elevated yet lo-fi twist.“I wanted it to feel colorful, sexy, confident—and quite ‘fashion,’ ” she explains of fall 2021, which draws on the pop culture tropes that the 33-year-old designer grew up surrounded by, refracted through the Helmut Lang–era minimalism that has long been her fixation. But unlike so much of Y2K’s original aesthetic (a wealth of Twitter commentary prompted by the Free Britney movement has clearly identified that era’s deeply troubling misogyny), the period is now seen through a distinctly female gaze. After all, “I’m a woman—and we know what feels good on our bodies,” she says. “Why would men know, and why would they get to decide? We get to decide what’s sexy for us.”That empowered, independent perspective is intrinsic to Lele’s work, and has resonated with a client base ranging from Dua Lipa to the jeweler Gaia Repossi and hair stylist Cyndia Harvey. Rather than being writ large on her designs, it materializes through the form-fitting drapery she instinctively models on the mannequins at her studio and the bodies of her all-female team, and which draws on her Indian heritage and appears determinedly flattering for a wealth of women.Last season, she opened up personal orders for her collection, and the response she has heard from her customers since has attested to the fact: “They say they can eat a roast dinner in the clothes and still feel good,” she beams (her flared trousers, two and a half years in development, have been a best-seller). “People say they didn’t realize how comfy they would be.”This season, bubblegum pastels drawn from Indian color palettes, and a paisley devoré which reimagines Madhya Pradesh florals as an early-noughties tribal tattoo print, became the foundations for cool, elegant pieces which quietly evoked Y2K. “I want to dress the woman who’s been there, done that—she has grown up and moved on, but that sentiment is still there a little bit,” she explained. The introduction of knitwear—hand-crafted crochet (Lele’s assistant is a whiz, and taught her last year), or mohair knit turned into slinky dresses—indicated a gentle expansion of her offering, while the twisted keyhole halters, sheer jersey dresses, and ruched bralettes intrinsic to her brand aesthetic were regularly dressed down, or layered atop one another. “One of the girls on my team, she doesn’t dress so ‘sexy’—whatever that word means—so she’ll take something a little more revealing and wear it over a T-shirt,” Lele notes. “What’s most important to me is that I like these clothes, the girls in my team like these clothes, and my clients like these clothes.” They do, and this collection certainly won’t let them down.
|
Olivia Singer
|
March 19, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/60546efb294f854267642ff9/master/w_1280,c_limit/00002-Supriya-Lele-Fall-21.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2021
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Supriya Lele
|
spring-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2021-ready-to-wear/supriya-lele
|
It’s late in the evening, the day before Supriya Lele is due to present her spring 2021 collection, and the 33-year-old British-Indian designer and her team are still in the London studio she refers to as her second home, eating the assortment of curries her mother has dropped off for dinner and finalizing looks for the collection. “Thank God,” she grins over Zoom. “I spent four months at home in my joggers, listening to Primal Scream and Brian Eno like a moody teenager who’d been locked in their room for months. I’m so happy to be back here with everyone, even if it is a Sunday night…”It was the gleeful enthusiasm she found in returning to work, combined with a lockdown soundtrack that harkened back to her heavy metal–obsessed youth, which informed her latest offering. A few months ago, Lele realized that when she and her team began to leave their houses again, they gradually started making more and more effort in the mornings: “We were all looking forward to getting dressed every day—and we wanted to feel good,” she recalls. “I was even wearing lower-cut tops. I wanted to feel hot again.”Due to COVID-19 restrictions, she found herself fitting clothes on herself and her all-female team—a range of women of different shapes and sizes—and so finding the fits to flatter everyone became of paramount importance: Enter adjustable necklines that can be pulled taut for more conservative impact, or the peekaboo underwear lines (a curious emergent trend) which might be tucked into low-rise trousers for the less adventurous wearer. “I wanted the sexiness to come through as confidence rather than something overt,” she reflects. “And for the clothes to be able to adapt to how you’re feeling.”But despite a dose of self-described optimism—the introduction of sequins and some standout brights—the lo-fi codes Lele has built over the course of her career remain at the core of her collection. Her ability to blend grunge-tinged nostalgia with a freshly minimalist take on the drapery of her Indian heritage is best embodied by a series of shrunken tops, tucked and cut to resemble well-worn band tees, and spray-painted by artist Will Bond with a traditional Indian graphic which ends up channeling Black Sabbath as much as Madhya Pradesh (applied to everything from duster coats to slit skirts, it became something of a seasonal motif). A wispy madras check, bought at her grandmother’s favorite fabric store the last time Lele visited India, is turned into a micromini—and, paired with sequined shorts and a cropped cardigan, makes for the sort of outfit you can easily imagine a 15-year-old Lele wearing to watch Slayer.There remains an abundance of the tied and twisted transparencies that have become a staple of her work (and Instagram gold for the likes of Dua Lipa and Kendall Jenner), and enough noughties revivalism to ensure her appeal to a generation for whom that appears vintage. “Subversive sparkly attire for the grown-up metalhead,” she wrote in her show notes. There are plenty of her peers who’ll be enamored by the sentiment.
|
Olivia Singer
|
September 22, 2020
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5f6a481e3173943ae7c6c898/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Supriya-Lele-RTW-Spring-21.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2021
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Supriya Lele
|
spring-2020-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/supriya-lele
|
Supriya Lele’s collection was a compendium of a seam of emerging trends sprung from a uniquely intersectional female viewpoint in London. Have a swipe through: Here, we see a new, concise, but sensual minimalism; the taste for black, for one-shoulder asymmetry, and the shadowy transparency that links her to a fresh matrix of energy on the rise across fashion.Lele’s fusion of traditional Indian dress with the specific sensibility of an English girl is part of a new wave of vitality surfacing through art schools into British fashion—the creative electricity inherent in the imaginations of second- and third-generation immigrants in the U.K. “It’s about being from two places, and not really knowing if you’re from here or there,” she said. “These ideas of these skeletons of your identity . . . the damping down of the identity you go through as a teenager—and then finding your confidence to grow into a woman and find yourself.”Her family memory of saris and the traditional bodices worn with them are concisely synthesized into her own experience as a fashion- and music-aware ’90s girl who was a teen metalhead. “I did architecture before I did fashion,” she said. “I was drawn to minimalism. I think I was shying away from my own culture—literally doing the opposite. I love Helmut Lang and Martin Margiela, how amazing it was that they could do something so nuanced and clever with a little touch or gesture.”Her expression of the consciousness of an English girl with a foot in two cultures is subtle and sexy: A place where vestigial Lang-like harnesses are indivisible from the asymmetry and delicacy of South Asian dress and its underpinnings; where modern body-conscious stretch dresses echo Indian madras checks; where slit skirts and skin-baring wraparound crop tops signal hip sensuality and strength. “I bleached and distressed saris and overlaid them with sheer black fabric,” said Lele. “The lime green shorts, checked trousers—all the prints were from saris.”It was a slick black tailored rubber coat, fastened high, that opened the show, however. A flashback to Lele’s days as a Slayer and Black Sabbath fan, whose parents tolerated her days of thrashing a drum kit in her bedroom provided she kept up with her schoolwork.
Which she certainly did—all the way to a master’s degree in fashion from the Royal College of Art, from whence she graduated in 2016.Identity and intersectionality are at the essential core of what makes fashion interesting and relevant today. Yes, Lele stands with that generational band of like-minders who are putting minimalism back on the map this season. But her creative intelligence is just as importantly a culmination of Indian and British postcolonial heritage, which has never been manifested on a London runway from a female perspective until this moment. “I thought, How can I make a really nuanced version of it that I’ve never seen before?” she said. “It was important to me to show that you can do that.”
|
Sarah Mower
|
September 21, 2019
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5d7f5a6c629cc60008cf5f09/master/w_1280,c_limit/_ALE0009.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2020
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Suzanne Rae
|
spring-2020-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/suzanne-rae
|
Staged at the Flamboyán Theater on the Lower East Side, Suzanne Rae’s new collection outperformed the typical runway experience in every way. Brooklyn pop artists CJCJ and Verduch opened the show with new music and choreography as Rae’s diverse lineup of models hit the catwalk, and it was all followed by a feel-good dance party.Rae’s inclusive casting broke the stereotypical model mold in an effort to show that her clothes are made for everyone—not just every woman. “The future of fashion is nonbinary, and I really enjoy opening up our exercises to that,” she said. In the clothes, Rae fused her own style with Gloria Vanderbilt’s and, more unusually,Caddyshack’s Al Czervik. “Part of me is a really casual person, and part of me is a little more formal,” she explained. The silky pajama set was lounge-ready, while a coral dress with fluorescent fringe was better suited for those big nights out. Rae’s bigger-picture goal was to decontextualize the relationship between fashion and class, putting her downtown twist on upper-crust staples like cardigans, crest blazers, evening gowns, knit polos, and Bermuda shorts. Her visions came in outsize proportions or were made with conscious materials like recycled polyester. “It’s really sort of a mishmash, but that’s how we all are now,” she mused. Like her peers in New York’s group of emerging talents, it all comes down to owning your look.
|
Eliseé Browchuk
|
September 9, 2019
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5d74257eb6ec23000805d600/master/w_1280,c_limit/_ALE1059.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2020
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Suzanne Rae
|
fall-2019-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2019-ready-to-wear/suzanne-rae
|
Beyond Fall 2019’s retro plaids and neons, Suzanne Rae wanted her collection to tell a story. Titled White Collar, Blue Collar, No Collar, she was thinking about working mothers, having given birth to her second child just three months ago. “I always bring it back to a personal perspective with regards to women and feminism,” she explained.That translated to her lookbook, too: Women and men alike wore her new tartan skirts and denim jumpsuits while they performed household tasks—cooking, vacuuming, washing the dishes. The bright makeup and wigs added a campy touch. There was a nod to the ’80s in the “I Can’t Believe It’s Not Butter” motif as well as the big, ruffly collars. Still, Rae said she wanted to make pieces for modern women who work in every field and setting: “Fashion is so performative, and I wanted everyone—no matter what class they’re in—to look fabulous.”The voluminous silhouettes and ultrabright colors indeed looked fabulous, but they were ultimately quite personal to Rae. She stitched her own name onto a few jumpsuits and hoodies, and showed new versions of the popular square-toe pumps that have become her own signature for tackling a day at the studio or running errands. The cropped jacquard trousers would also suit that purpose; the ultrashort miniskirts, not so much—but they’ll be fun for mom’s night out.
|
Eliseé Browchuk
|
February 20, 2019
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5c65d8a4e7d89924322457c2/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-suzanne-rae-fall-2019-ready-to-wear-credit-mae-elvis-kaufman-and-lindsey-eskind.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2019
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Suzanne Rae
|
spring-2019-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/suzanne-rae
|
Childhood’s magic exists in part thanks to our boundless imaginations. Before the pragmatic limitations of society are present within our minds we’re free to envision futures steeped in fantasy. Suzanne Rae Pelaez’s Spring output was crafted from a youthful worldview informed by fairy tales, Hollywood films, and the punchy colors of Crayola crayons. With her vintage dollhouse sitting at the center of her Chinatown studio and daughter Ella playing alongside models dressed in cheery shades of pink and lavender, Rae Pelaez set an exuberant mood. The clothes were as smile-inducing; cropped suits in floral jacquard with transparent overlays of tulle with cross-stitching that resembled circuitry were cute and inventive, while bows adorning trousers, belts, and even shoes added an unapologetically girly touch.A neutral-focused wardrobe may be the norm for most once adulthood hits, but Rae Pelaez was eager to challenge the narrative that grown-up equates to conservative. A feminist designer whose work has always reflected her ideals, her choice to go juvenile was about more than the youthquake. Freedom of expression served as the underlying theme. Puffed sleeves and lacy pants that echoed bloomers were a take on feminine liberation. Not every aspect worked—in the wrong hands a floral-leggings-and-cropped-top combination could skew into Barbie kitsch—but the collection had an audacious energy that reverberated through each flight of fancy.
|
Janelle Okwodu
|
September 12, 2018
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5b97a5ce6dba9a1aa6671faa/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Suzanne-Rae-spring-2019-ready-to-wear.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2019
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Suzanne Rae
|
resort-2019
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2019/suzanne-rae
|
Resort 2019 marks the first time Suzanne Rae designer Suzanne Rae Pelaez has shown during the pre-collections, but she came armed with ideas. To start, she debuted a line of ultra-comfy, orthopedic shoe–inspired sneakers and expanded her popular range of footwear into minty green fur-lined sandals and emerald Mary Janes. Accessories aside, Rae Pelaez used the season to explore athleisure, a category that has become omnipresent. By now, any label that offers up something different than the typical lineup of hoodies and sweats is cause for celebration, and Rae Pelaez steered clear of the cliches. Adapting her favorite motifs into sportier versions of themselves, she emblazoned crests on T-shirts, layered tracksuits beneath tailored topcoats, and accented gauzy dresses with drawstring pulls in punchy shades of red.Taking her cues from referee uniforms, she brought in a wealth of graphic patterns covering blazers, cropped trousers, and shirts. Stripes may be the predominant motif, but the most interesting visual came via a country-western fabric featuring a cowboy mid-gallop. Abstract until you look close enough to see the painted figures, the fabric’s print brought flair to cheongsams and blouses fastened with button knots. The unexpected East meets West touch added originality to shapes that might otherwise seem familiar.As always, Rae Pelaez made sure to include an empowering message within the garments themselves. Stitching the wordfeministonto suspenders and the sleeves of jackets, she anchored the collection with a statement that went beyond trainers and sweats.
|
Janelle Okwodu
|
June 12, 2018
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5b1936ebfcda8975bec67fa7/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-suzanne-rae-vogue-resort-2019-pr.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2019
|
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] |
||
Suzanne Rae
|
fall-2018-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-ready-to-wear/suzanne-rae
|
Protest can be a loaded theme for a fashion show. Lately, brands whose previous political engagement could best be described as lax have been co-opting its symbols within their collections, a move that can seem trite, or worse yet, opportunistic. Designers who have long tied their work to themes of social justice face a new challenge: how to address the concerns of the current climate while maintaining authenticity.In the past, Suzanne Rae Pelaez has used her presentations as a platform for feminist ideas, utilizing performance and artwork as a means of conveying a full story. This season, the clothes spoke for themselves, though she staged her work at a gallery night entitled “Women of the American Evolution” with portraits of inspirational women like Zora Casebere—actress and daughter of artist Lorna Simpson—and the Wide Rainbow arts program director Maia Ruth Lee posed like political leaders. One look at the pieces made Rae Pelaez’s message clear—change is coming and women are the ones who will bring it.Revisiting motifs from the past, Rae Pelaez reimagined several elements that have become signatures within her work. Moving the decorative crests she’d used on blazers during Fall 2017 onto military-style berets, she ditched prep in favor of symbolic rebellion. Remixing standards like the jean jacket and power suit into plaid or pinstripe-covered separates in stretchy wool, she presented workwear with an off-kilter vibe. The combo of a salmon-color angora turtleneck and a hot pink A-line skirt could be appropriate for the office, but the ultrafeminine prettiness almost begged for an occasion. On the flip side, transparent knit dresses might seem too revealing for day, but their gauzy beauty, when layered over white stockings, made it seem worth the risk.Finding new ways to wear the familiar is what fashion is all about, but Rae Pelaez’s vision of what women need felt distinctive. Blouses with frayed edges, square-toed Mary Janes, and dresses with deep pockets speak to a specific kind of downtowner, but the appeal of that look has broadened. Increasingly, women feel emboldened, ready to wear their politics on their sleeve or eschew traditional workwear. Pastel Chelsea boots, cocoon-shaped outerwear, and chunky faux fur may not incite revolution, but Rae Pelaez’s earnest approach keeps her work interesting.
|
Janelle Okwodu
|
February 28, 2018
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5a8705c671dfb1796196f462/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-suzanne-rae-fall-18.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2018
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Suzanne Rae
|
spring-2018-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-to-wear/suzanne-rae
|
At Suzanne Rae, the artist is present. Objects of Desire, the label’s Spring collection, looked to performance art, with Laurie Anderson and Louise Bourgeois serving as inspirations for a streamlined collection of separates in shades of navy, white, and crimson. Designer Suzanne Rae Pelaez committed herself to the experience by inviting guests at her immersive presentation into a specially crafted confessional where they could interact with her directly. The intimate encounter was intended to bring viewers deeper into the collection’s spirit. For Pelaez, who also stars in the corresponding lookbook, presenting new designs and herself in such a personal manner proved uniquely demanding. “In the context of everything, of being immediately subject to social assumptions, it was generally uncomfortable for both parties, but I enjoyed the challenge of the awkwardness,” she said postshow. “I felt compelled to make my audience feel comfortable and to let them know that within the experiment of life, of being, that everything is okay and that I was on their side.”Even those who won’t get to experience face time with Pelaez should feel as though she’s in their corner this season. Playing with ideas about the sacred and profane, she crafted looks that could be seen as seductive or demure, depending on the wearer’s disposition, which allowed for added versatility. Skirts that hinted at transparency with their visible seams and gauzy overlay of organza were sexy yet subdued, as were bloodred sheaths in clingy viscose jersey. Details like shoe clips bearing the male and female symbols and rows of undone buttons on cardigans added a playful quality, as did the miniature versions of several looks that were worn by Pelaez’s daughter.Anchored by a strong lineup of accessories including on-trend leather fanny packs, square-toed platform Mary Janes in plush velvet, and Chelsea boots in ribbed moire, the objects of desire moniker fit. Ditching some of the pragmatism she showed in previous seasons, Pelaez opened the door for unbridled prettiness; full skirts in shiny blue taffeta serve no practical purpose, but, boy, do they look good.
|
Janelle Okwodu
|
September 10, 2017
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/59b4600b06186a151516d978/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-suzanne-rae-ss18.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2018
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Suzanne Rae
|
fall-2017-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/suzanne-rae
|
Though the definition of luxury continues to evolve, fashion frequently trades on imagery associated with the old boys’ club. The patriarchal version of success associated with country clubs and elite boarding schools remains prevalent, but with her subversive 2017 collection, Suzanne Pelaez aims to turn the posh archetype on its head. Political long before it became an industry-wide buzzword, Pelaez has seen opinions shift and her output has changed as a result. “When we started the line six years ago we used the word feminist a lot and people would tell me, ‘Suzanne, don’t you think that’s a little aggressive?’ ” shared Pelaez pre-presentation. “We’ve always had a feminist agenda, but we’ve gotten braver. People realize now that the word isn’t something to fear.”Taking the symbols associated with the exclusionary and reinterpreting them as empowering messages for women, Pelaez creates an appealing new iconography. School crests with the words “Liberté, Égalité, and Feminist” in bold text, tailored blazers paired with recycled cashmere knits, and an array of colorful separates with a vintage vibe combined to form a collection that focused on feminine updates to menswear standards. Offering a vivid range of mules lined with faux mink, mesh Chelsea boots, and pony-hair penny loafers, Pelaez expanded on her accessories output to great effect.Playing with ideas of personas and privilege meant creating an experience that could reflect those concepts. With artist Mae Elvis Kaufman and actress Marisa Tomei on hand to transform themselves into characters who took artfully composed self-portraits, Pelaez offered one of the more interesting presentations of the week. Seeing Tomei and Kaufman don wigs and try on the looks proved fascinating, but it’s the clothes—with their assured confidence and subtle message—that will keep people talking.
|
Janelle Okwodu
|
February 14, 2017
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/58a2774ebaddd89b56b3a98a/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-suzanne-rae-fall-2017-lookbook.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2017
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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]
] |
|
Suzanne Rae
|
spring-2017-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/suzanne-rae
|
Suzanne RaePelaez falls into the “minimalist” category of designers, but unlike the stark, neutral-toned boundaries her peers might set for themselves, she gives herself lots of wiggle room when it comes to color, texture, and strange details. Consider the cape-like swaths of silk draped over the jackets and dresses in her Spring ’17 lineup, or the little patches embroidered with Venus symbols on the waistbands of ribbed trousers. Feminism has always been an underlying theme for Pelaez, and with so many girl-power messages on the runways this season, it’s a good time for her to push that even further. A boxy, cream-color mesh top had the faintest chain stitching that read: “I’m not your seductress,” a mantra of sorts for Pelaez.Bigger shifts came in the form of high-definition new colors, like the turquoise and lime-green ribbed knits, and an expanded range of fabrics. Pelaez called it a mix of Eastern and Western influences; her signature mandarin collared shirts and dresses appeared in techy cotton-nylon blends, rather than 100 percent Supima, which wrinkles and “wilts around the body.” She also pointed out a buoyant Newlife fiber from Italy that was made of recycled plastic bottles, noting that it “performs better” than cotton or crepe. The concept of performance fabrics typically refers to activewear, but any woman who’s tried to pack a starchy poplin blouse in a suitcase knows the struggle of beautiful clothes that don’t stand up to real life.
|
Emily Farra
|
October 11, 2016
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/57fd4b5ee67edaeb0582adfa/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-suzanne-rae-2017-rtw.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2017
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Suzanne Rae
|
fall-2016-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/suzanne-rae
|
You could describe Suzanne Rae Pelaez’s aesthetic as minimal, intellectual, and a little arty. She isn’t really concerned with being on trend, and neither are her customers. Pelaez’s label is a resource for boxy tees, bias-cut dresses, and utilitarian jackets, often in easy-to-style neutrals like camel, navy, and ivory. But clothes that subtle can be easy to miss, too. This season, she got a little more experimental; her overarching theme was masculinity versus femininity, and while she certainly isn’t the first designer to play with that tension, you’d be hard-pressed to find someone else who wants you to wear leotardsovermidi skirts and paper-bag–waist trousers. Many of the leotards were actually built into dresses and shirts, and they lent a dance-class vibe to an otherwise spare lineup.The other news for Pelaez was a vintage wallpaper–inspired floral print in shades of eggplant and lavender. It showed up on button-downs, cropped trousers, and a flowing skirt, which she styled on a male model. Suzanne Rae isn’t necessarily a unisex label, but the clothes are basic and anonymous enough to welcome all kinds of shoppers, regardless of gender, age, or taste. Lots of women (and men!) would be happy to have Pelaez’s light-as-air micro-down coat in their closets ahead of next winter’s blizzards.
|
Emily Farra
|
March 16, 2016
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/56e86b8f3f5c6b7e19503a3c/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-suzanne-rae-fall-2016-ready-to-wear.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2016
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Suzanne Rae
|
spring-2016-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/suzanne-rae
|
“I’m not your seductress.” That was designer Suzanne Rae’s mantra for Spring, a manifesto for women who dress for themselves, not the gaze of others; in short, her customers. Rae makes quietly arty staples that place an emphasis on construction and fit. Here she struck a balance between concealing and revealing: boxy, unisex shapes like kimonos in Japanese denim, and clingier bias-cut dresses. Trousers and tops in a sheeny cotton nylon were standouts, and gave way to other novel fabrications like a white Italian jacquard splashed all over with burnout blooms. That print felt like a rare—but welcome—extravagance among so many garments that receded, down to their clear buttons. One development for Rae that was anything but retiring? A group of two-tone ribbed knits in juicy, jolie-laide color combos; there was a certain seductiveness to them—the kind that will pit cool girls against their wallets.
|
Kristin Anderson
|
October 19, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/569e915934324c316bd713a7/master/w_1280,c_limit/suzanne-rae-01.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2016
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Symonds Pearmain
|
fall-2020-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-ready-to-wear/symonds-pearmain
|
“We have no assumptions of who this woman is,” said Anthony Symonds. “She’s entirely herself.” The designer, who cofounded the Symonds Pearmain collection with stylist Max Pearmain, recognizes that they are two men making clothes for women—and who are they to say sequins are in or girlish skirts are right for 2020? Symonds says he and Pearmain question their role by trying to remove any kind of male gaze or fashion diktats from their clothing.Layering is at the core of the collection, with tiny vests worn under bomber jackets that pair with full skirts. Some pieces are tricks of the eye: knits fused with tops to give the illusion of two garments. Elsewhere the opposite proves to be true: Pants snap off into shorts.The silhouettes pay tribute to Yves Saint Laurent’s Russian collection. “There was a sense of glamour in a woman’s agency,” Symonds continued, saying that poshness shouldn’t come at the expense of comfort, motion, or durability. That’s why so much of the line is sparkly, kitschy fun—and why it’s made from practical cotton or easy knits. The idea of wardrobe essentials has for too long meant a beige blazer or proper pencil skirt. Why shouldn’t a woman’s everyday outfit be a white drill jumpsuit or a checkerboard sweater vest? At least it’s not boring. There’s a lot of us out here who want to dress as delightfully strange as we please without sacrificing function.
|
Steff Yotka
|
March 12, 2020
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e4871fb94b12c00093d8f48/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Symonds-Pearmain-RTW-Fall-2020.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2020
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Symonds Pearmain
|
spring-2020-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/symonds-pearmain
|
Frieze London hosted a series of firsts this year—from installing the first augmented reality work by South Korean artist Koo Jeong to holding its first-ever fashion show. “It’s a first for Frieze, and an interesting context for us,” said Max Pearmain just before the third outing of the label he co-founded with artist Anthony Symonds.Frieze art fair falls on the end of fashion month and made an ideal platform for this emerging brand that might have otherwise gotten swallowed up during Fashion Week. Held inside The Standard, London Library space and presented by MatchesFashion.com, the duo’s presentation was concise but ambitious. The mainstays could be umbrellaed under “feminine utility”: poppered canvas co-ordinates, knitted skirt suits, and raw denim jumpsuits. “Utility and longevity are already core values for us,” said Pearmain. A cheeky nod to the art setting came via a white fitted shirtdress—an homage to Richard Prince’sNurseseries with a swift addition of a sex shop nurses’ hat.Symonds Pearmain is about wearability with added fashion cred. The knitwear coordinates looked fresh and best played out in a navy-and-white rugby stripe skirt and top made in the Pringle factory. The fine pastel knits were made in a traditional underwear factory in Leicester. The duo pride themselves on producing everything in the U.K. with fabric from dead stock suppliers. “We produce small quantities and do not overprice and subsequently discount,” added Symonds.The models circled around a sculpture of plastic dust sheets placed by the duo—both Slade School of Fine Art alums—and their team before the show. Their makeshift audacity feels almost of a different era of London fashion: that of the club scene. The ’80s current runs strong through the styling (pelerine school socks and Symonds Pearmain–branded duct tape kitten heels) and the actual clothing. “I wanted it to be about protective macs. Not chic trench coats, but macs. It felt more ’80s and real” said Symonds of the retina-jarring yellow and pink waterproofs. All macs were shown with collars drawn up to resemble high ruffs, that were, in fact, oversized Peter Pan collars that ruched when pulled. “If it’s a bit inclement, you can go up, or if you’re just feeling a bit dramatic,” said Symonds. With climate change looming and the only certainty being unpredictability, such focus on durability seems timely. “I was really interested in things that persist and just go on, like this idea of these wax fabrics, which you just keep waxing, and they remain, and you keep them for life,” Symonds added.As traditional ways of showing are constantly being questioned, Pearmain was pleased that the art setting allowed for a more intimate and nuanced conversation. But, of course, at the end of the day, we are all speaking in a commercial language. So to an age-old debate: Is fashion art or art fashion? “Neither is either,” laughed Pearmain. “We make fashion and sometimes show in an art context. Get into it!” With Lily McMenamy’s provocative, cool-girl strut on the runway and a buzzy crowd including David Sims, Francesca Burns, and Kim Sion cheering from the sidelines, it appears the creative set are alreadyin.
|
Emma Elwick-Bates
|
October 8, 2019
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5d976d3fdf64fb00083e458d/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Symonds-Pearmain-Spring-20-RTW-Credit-Chris-Yates.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2020
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Symonds Pearmain
|
fall-2019-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2019-ready-to-wear/symonds-pearmain
|
Designer Anthony Symonds and stylist Max Pearmain titled their Fall 2019 collection “Nostalgia Nostalgia.” Considering fashion’s ever-shortening backwards glance, what a red flag—or maybe not. As proven on the runway in MatchesFashion.com’s townhouse turned store, the duo are beyond common rehashings of archival ideas. Yes, the body-enveloping shapes of the ’80s returned on their runway (and some of the songs too), but Symonds is a deft and innovative patternmaker, giving his pieces boxier proportions and an intentional slouchiness. “I take a lot of shaping out of garments. I just crush it out, so you get this very, kind of—I suppose it’s quite a square fit for a woman, but it also has a loose utility feeling. There’s always a sense that the body is underneath it,” Symonds toldVogue’s Mark Holgate before the show.Safari suiting and knickerbocker shorts were the mainstays of the collection, remade in vintage fabrics. Dunmoy tea towels acquired on eBay were draped into jackets, and vintage William Morris curtains were cut to make blouson tops. “We’re re-proposing deliberately to say, this is not a seasonal proposition, it is a brand proposition,” said Symonds. Such sustainable antics can read as high and mighty if the clothes don’t stand to match, but these sexless, almost rough garments had serious appeal. Some likened them to Princess Di’s later looks, others remembered their ’80s club days, but most were just happy to see models on the runway having a good time. Led by Lily McMenamy, who choreographed bold movements that punctuated each turn, the models stomped out making graphic poses here and there. In the context of a massive e-tailer like Matches, such playfulness and sustainable practices were welcome.
|
Steff Yotka
|
February 18, 2019
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5c672be4e115dd2d380c609a/master/w_1280,c_limit/_ALE0018.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2019
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
System
|
spring-2025-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-menswear/system
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6676c6a7bc1ba24fe25cb6d5/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-system-spring-2025-menswear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2025
|
menswear
|
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] |
||
System
|
fall-2024-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-menswear/system
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/65aa69eb01b446bc4b23dc0b/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-system-fall-2024-menswear-credit-guillaume-roujas.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2024
|
menswear
|
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||
System
|
spring-2024-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-menswear/system
| null | null |
[
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] |
spring
|
2024
|
menswear
|
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System
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fall-2023-ready-to-wear
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https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/system
| null | null |
[
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] |
fall
|
2023
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ready-to-wear
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||
System
|
spring-2023-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-menswear/system
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/62b34f2fbe77e3c9d0bb984f/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-system-spring-2023-mens-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2023
|
menswear
|
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] |
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