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System
|
fall-2022-ready-to-wear
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https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/system
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/61f81ee1b503d85fc1e8f997/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-System-Fall-22-RTW-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2022
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ready-to-wear
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||
Tabula Rasa
|
fall-2018-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-ready-to-wear/tabula-rasa
|
Emily Diamandis has a way of making sweaters tell stories. To her, knitwear is a clothing category that can be defined by more than just coziness and comfort. The designer’s creations bring to mind specific periods, paintings, and places, even in their simplest or most standard forms. This season at Tabula Rasa, Diamandis had Pre-Raphaelite beauties on the brain. She also pointed to the Atlas Mountains in Morocco and the traditional textile designs of the Berber culture as a source of inspiration.Marrying these two polar-opposite references in a cohesive way is no easy task, but Diamandis managed to pull it off. The hybrid was present in the heavy woven cardigans in pastel hues—the balloon sleeves and corset ties calling to mind an 1840s-era portrait of a lady, and the mixed knit techniques nodding to an intricate Berber rug. Playful fringe on gray pullover sweaters also played up the Moroccan vibes, and there was a delicate, almost ethereal tone to the wrap skirts and the dresses with cutouts and knotted detailing at the bust. Some pieces, namely the athleisure-esque mesh tops, were a bit off base in terms of their sportiness. In all though, it was a smart collection by Diamandis and one that successfully told two very different narratives at the same time.
|
Brooke Bobb
|
March 16, 2018
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5a9f1a552da21b0baa10e87e/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-tabula-rasa-fall-2018.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2018
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Tabula Rasa
|
spring-2018-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-to-wear/tabula-rasa
|
Tabula Rasa isn’t your average knitwear brand. With each new season, designer Emily Diamandis expands and updates her aesthetic palette, and Spring 2018 represented the next inch forward. Her clothes always give off a similar, holiday-inspired vibe from collection to collection, and she stays true to the details she loves: a car-wash hem, geometric intarsia, and loads of fringe. For Diamandis, it’s about building on those signature frills and creating new scenarios and scenes for the customer to embrace. This time around, the designer took an imaginary journey to Mali, as seen through the lens of photographer Malick Sidibé. His black-and-white photos captured the local culture of Bamako during the 1960s.If you aren’t familiar with his work, it might be tough to understand how Diamandis incorporated the artist’s snapshots into her lineup of slubby sweaters and tassel-bedecked dresses. But subtlety, at least in terms of reference, is one of her strong suits. Sidibé’s portraits were there in the black and white of the striped, sleeveless gown and in the gold fringing and chevron patterns that nodded to the traditional embellishments of Mali’s Dogon Binu shrines. Everything felt consistent save for a slouchy knit top decorated with little woven cherries and palm trees—it took the vacation vibe to a different and overtly literal place. In all, though, Diamandis is finding her ready-to-wear groove and making us all think differently about how to incorporate knitwear into our everyday wardrobe, whether it’s a ruffled crop top, a crocheted bikini, or a simple dress inspired by a very specific person and a far-off place.
|
Brooke Bobb
|
October 19, 2017
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/59d7cbd92946d21041c92243/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-Tabula-Rasa-SS-18-VFW.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2018
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Tabula Rasa
|
fall-2017-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/tabula-rasa
|
Emily Diamandis was weaving her crafty knitwear long before the artisan trend hit the Fall 2017 runways. Since launching her business in 2013, the former Rag & Bone designer’s fringy, handcrafted pieces have been selling fast on sites like Moda Operandi and MatchesFashion.com. This season, she’s amped up her offering a bit further with a striking collection inspired by India and the ceremonial dress of Rajasthani warriors. These references come through most visibly in the pinwheel crochet appliqués on perfectly slouchy sweaters done in rich reds and navy blues. Other than her nods to traditional royalty, Diamandis also borrowed from the disco queens of the ’70s. Her expanded Fall wares include a brilliant shag bomber jacket and a beautiful metallic knit chain-mail skirt. The striped, low V-neck bodysuits weren’t half bad, either.With these playful and intricate new formfitting pieces, there was something a bit more fashion-forward about Tabula Rasa this season. In continuing to experiment with daring textures and silhouettes, Diamandis is sure to keep the success of her handcrafted knitwear brand on the upswing.
|
Brooke Bobb
|
March 23, 2017
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/58d3edc3ccf23c3b25e88776/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-tabula-rasa-fw-2017.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2017
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Tadashi Shoji
|
fall-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/tadashi-shoji
|
Tadashi Shoji wants his clients to find the warrior within. Since the beginning of the pandemic, designers have shown renewed interest in the concept of clothing as a means of defense, and Shoji is no exception. His fall lineup was dedicated to the idea of female strength of the valiant variety. Glitz is Shoji’s specialty, but lockdown limitations allowed him to consider fashion with a greater purpose. “I think everyone could use an extra layer of protection right now,” he said via Zoom. “Something that makes women feel powerful and strong, and is almost like a layer of armor.”Shoji’s high fantasy was a mix of medieval motifs—suits of armor and empire waists galore—and dystopian imagery: models standing atop ruins and rubble courtesy of fine art photographer Franz Szony, who lent his talents to the season’s look book. Pinned to Shoji’s mood board was a snap of the ornate armor garniture of George Clifford, Third Earl of Cumberland, its black and gold fleur-de-lis and Tudor rose pattern unabashedly pretty. Some of that finery made its way onto the garments, but despite the spectacle of their presentation, the majority of the clothes were straightforward. Cocktail dresses in bouclé or lace and cowl-neck jumpsuits require little explanation, but Shoji upgraded these classics by working with a new set of materials created with comfort in mind. “It’s not about dressing up for a photo shoot. Anything women wear has to be comfortable,” he said. “People aren’t going out to galas, but they still have smaller special events.”It’s unlikely those in search of an occasion gown or frock fit for a socially distanced party will worry much about a collection’s intent. Meaning gets lost once clothes are on the rack; those gold lamé jersey dresses could easily register as a moment of disco redux instead of an interpretation of chain mail. Still, Shoji’s most inventive offerings embraced the season’s theme fully. Bronze gowns with an armor motif woven into the brocade and oversized puff sleeves looked powerful, while tea-length jacquard dresses worn with heeled combat boots had a gothic flair. Bejeweled masks that covered the models’ faces added to the effect, but even without the COVID-era add-ons, these were the pieces worth fighting for.
|
Janelle Okwodu
|
February 14, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6024fd70475e0854e8f8f09c/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Tadashi-Shoji-Fall-21-RTW.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2021
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Tadashi Shoji
|
spring-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2021-ready-to-wear/tadashi-shoji
|
Tadashi Shoji’s spring 2021 collection was conceived during lockdown. It was at a time when there were fewer people and fewer cars, and in their place more flowers and more wild animals. Shoji decided to celebrate nature, along with hope this season. The dresses were made to mimic the hues of flowers in uplifting pinks and reds. A body-skimming red number with exaggerated ruffled sleeves was a standout.While it’s nice to look forward and imagine a world in which we can return to going-out and dressing up, in this stay-at-home moment, it pays to have something Zoom-worthy. One contender here was a floral print shift dress with a ruffle that stretched from waist to hem, another featured a neat boat neck cut. It’s hard to imagine attending cocktail parties in these pieces right now, but in the meantime they’ll make a big waist-up impact on a computer call.
|
Liana Satenstein
|
September 16, 2020
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5f5a3d835223e928c65feb3f/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Tadashi-RTW-Spring-2021.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2021
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Tadashi Shoji
|
fall-2020-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-ready-to-wear/tadashi-shoji
|
Tadashji Shoji tapped into the history of the Mongolian empire between the 13th and 15th centuries for his fall 2020 collection. “It is the East meeting the West,” he said backstage. “It was a revelation for me.” Shoji further emphasized the concept of East-meets-West in the conversation. After all, it has been the Japanese-American designer’s signature to combine the two regions. In this collection, the best pieces were the ones that took those motifs, such as the opening look: a dress with the skirt beaded in the pattern of Mongolian geometric tiles in turquoise and royal blues. The Afghan coats were also standouts: They were composed of brocades and, for a modern jolt, a faux leopard print fur that became the lining and the cuffs.One stellar look was worn by Shoji himself. The 72-year-old designer walked out to take a bow in a custom-made tracksuit with dress shoes. The brocade track jacket played off the sapphire and navy blues that appeared throughout the collection. (He paired that piece with a black turtleneck.) His velour track pants were in a shade of blue that was so vibrant, it felt like it came out of a fairytale. Does Shoji make these for women? He should.
|
Liana Satenstein
|
February 7, 2020
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e3c6bf66d8f97000815d681/master/w_1280,c_limit/_FIO0004.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2020
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Tadashi Shoji
|
bridal-fall-2020
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/bridal-fall-2020/tadashi-shoji
|
The choice between trends and tradition is one many brides have to face. Sure, there are scores of white dresses out there, but most of them fit neatly into one of those two categories. As a response to the divide, Tadashi Shoji attempted to bridge the gap with his Fall 2020 collection. That meant gowns with familiar silhouettes and look-at-me details that could be dressed up or down depending on a bride’s preference.Shoji’s notes were heavy on buzzwords likeindividualityandpersonality, but he didn’t end up straying far from convention. Elements like satin jacquard and Watteau pleats have been bridal standards for decades, but he added modern touches like statement capes and polished stone embellishments for good measure.Extra attention was given to tailoring, particularly in the jumpsuits and minidresses, which looked especially modern this season. The simpler silhouettes were compelling, but those in search of glitter and embroidery will have plenty of glam options. The hashtag #TadashiShojiBridal is already brimming with images of brides who’ve embraced his love of bling, tulle, and fantasy.
|
Janelle Okwodu
|
October 7, 2019
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5d94734997a70d000861c1ec/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Tadashi-Shoji-New-York-Bridal-Fall-2020.jpg"
] |
bridal
|
fall
|
2020
|
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] |
|
Tadashi Shoji
|
spring-2020-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/tadashi-shoji
|
“It’s ‘Once Upon a Time in Japan,’” Tadashi Shoji announced backstage at his show today. Kimonos and traditional lace techniques were central to his story this season. One translation of the former came in a long, clingy black jersey dress with red piping down its décolletage. Two slits were cut at the waist, which was bisected by a bow. It was risqué, but striking. The shorter pale pink incarnation that followed, which was more modest, did not make such an impact.Shoji was at his elegant best working with longer silhouettes. The lacework and prints sometimes made the shorter dresses look busy. The show’s most eye-catching number was a blue off-the-shoulder dress based on traditional lace techniques. Shoji noted that typically, the lace is all made by hand, but that wasn’t the case here. Nonetheless, it was a loving ode to the Japanese culture.
|
Liana Satenstein
|
September 5, 2019
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5d717094bdb7540009842f86/master/w_1280,c_limit/_ALE0012.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2020
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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]
] |
|
Tadashi Shoji
|
resort-2020
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2020/tadashi-shoji
|
The “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” mantra has served Tadashi Shoji well. Most seasons, the designer builds on this label’s signature pieces, offering tweaks on the looks that have come to define his namesake brand. Shoji’s lacy eveningwear and colorful cocktail dresses are consistently worn by celebrities and women in search of fail-safe looks for special occasions, but even successful formulas can benefit from an update. Resort saw Shoji ditch the Chantilly in favor of polka dots, clean lines, and a graphic take on sequins.The change was refreshing and gave a hint at what Shoji could do when freed from expectations. Column gowns with ruffles have become standard, but in black-and-white brocade they managed to excite. Cigarette pants worn with a polka-dot top with an extended sash were an appealing take on evening separates, and hot pink chevron added a preppy feel to floor-grazing halter dresses. There were moments when Shoji couldn’t resist working in a few of his old favorites—a maroon lace number with cap sleeves would have fit right in with his jewel-toned Fall collection, and the tiered tulle segment felt like a retread. Sandwiched between the fresher looks those pieces felt out of place, especially once the collection’s high points, a series of striped sequined gowns with strategic cutouts, came into view.
|
Janelle Okwodu
|
June 6, 2019
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5cf633e9cce7a0dea493172f/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Tadashi-shoji-Resort-SS20-credit-Ezekiel-Williams.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2020
|
[
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] |
||
Tadashi Shoji
|
bridal-spring-2020
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/bridal-spring-2020/tadashi-shoji
|
As weddings have ballooned into mammoth events, designers have responded with gowns that are bigger and bolder too. The lavishness of today’s wedding celebrations means bridal is booming, but you can create a fantasy without going completely bombastic. For his Spring 2020 presentation, Tadashi Shoji looked to otherworldly inspirations—mystical valleys, enchanted forests, and the like—for a collection that felt down-to-earth. The skill of Shoji’s lacework and embroidery was present here, but he showed restraint where the details were concerned. Only a few pieces got the added sparkle of pearl beading along the bodice or satin flowers dotting the neckline.Without his usual glitz, the visual interest came in the form of less-expected silhouettes and touches of transparency. A fishtail gown with tiers of tulle seemed tailor-made for the extroverted bride while midriff-baring crop tops offered a sexier vibe for beach weddings. A few shoulder-baring pieces with polka-dotted lace and voluminous skirts channeled the ’80s romanticism of Laura Ashley, a concept Shoji could have pushed even further. Elsewhere, his nude slip dresses and flowing veil-cape hybrids looked as alluring as ever.
|
Janelle Okwodu
|
April 12, 2019
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5caf7166753cb72e59249800/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Tadashi-Shoji-New-York-Bridal-Spring-2020-credit-Ezekiel-Williams.jpg"
] |
bridal
|
spring
|
2020
|
[
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] |
|
Tadashi Shoji
|
fall-2019-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2019-ready-to-wear/tadashi-shoji
|
Tadashi Shoji noted that he had been traveling through Southeast Asia recently, and this time, he took monks’ robes with him for inspiration. That sort of draping style was evident throughout his Fall collection in the form of off-the-shoulder dresses that had large swathes of fabric extending across the chest. Those jewel-tone pieces were pretty, but the best looks were lace and body-skimming. A black dress with a lace mesh bodice and floral embroidery cascading down the torso really showed Shoji’s craftsmanship, as did its V-shaped top and pant incarnation. Another standout was a modest long-sleeved embroidered black lace dress with an embedded corset. Still, there were moments when the lace felt excessive, especially when mixed with other fabrics, like a dress with a tiered tulle skirt in oranges and deep purple.There has been a lot of talk about size in the industry lately—pop star Bebe Rexha recently tweeted that she couldn’t find a designer to dress her at a size eight for the Grammys—and Shoji’s show was refreshingly size-inclusive. The casting included curvy model Marquita Pring, who gave a figure-hugging red dress some well-deserved star power. It was a megawatt look that could have easily been seen on the red carpet.
|
Liana Satenstein
|
February 7, 2019
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5c5ca4b83c33202d4fa07733/master/w_1280,c_limit/_ALE0007.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2019
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Tadashi Shoji
|
pre-fall-2019
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2019/tadashi-shoji
|
After an intergalactic-themed Spring show, Tadashi Shoji’s Pre-Fall collection headed back to earth with a trip into a night garden. Home to balmy hot-house flowers and romantic intrigue, the concept fit with Shoji’s brand of high-drama eveningwear and allowed the designer a chance to revisit with some of his favorite elements. All the lace, sequins, and intricate embroidery one expects from the label were on display, but amid the familiar, he added in a new set of ideas. A jersey knit gown with a botanical brocade print and asymmetrical neckline started things on a vibrant note. Followed by a ruffled minidress featuring the same pattern and a voluminous red caftan, the lush color palette and horticultural references kept things interesting.Subdued gowns like the black and white column dress covered in floral appliqué and a straightforward gray lace number were pretty albeit staid. The collection came to life when Shoji embraced the exuberance of his theme either through a literal interpretation of flowers or by experimenting with saturated color. A crimson dress with an ombré fade to fuchsia is guaranteed to win over his fans, especially considering its layers of tulle ruffles. Shimmering orchids in shades of purple aren’t bad either, even if they won’t excite everyone. Shoji didn’t push boundaries here, but his punchy creations should fare well considering his clientele is always in search of that next party dress.
|
Janelle Okwodu
|
December 5, 2018
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5c05581fdb96092dd78019f9/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-tadashi-shoji-new-york-pre-fall-19-credit-angelo-sgambati.jpg"
] |
pre-fall
|
2019
|
[
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] |
||
Tae Ashida
|
tokyo-spring-2022
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/tokyo-spring-2022/tae-ashida
|
It’s been two years since Tae Ashida has been on the runway. Pre-pandemic, her shows were stately affairs where diplomats sat alongside cinema stars and musicians. That mix of luminaries from politics and entertainment spoke to Ashida’s reach and the multiple client demographics she’s designing for. In recent seasons she’s addressed the group via experimental fashion films that saw her collaborate with Japanese directors like Yasuhiko Shimizu. For this go-round, she wanted a real-world showcase for her creations. To make that happen, Ashida took over Tokyo's Shin-toyosu Brillia Running Stadium, a venue created specifically for the Tokyo 2020 Olympics, and staged an outdoor show on its indoor track.Edging close to the 30th anniversary of her brand, Ashida’s recent work has focused on asserting her codes by centering on her essential pieces. This season that meant an exploration of the blazer, an item she selected for its connection to the office rather than telecommuting’s nebulous virtual space. The setup was carefully considered—guests were seated beneath the stadium’s interlocking archways while adhering to social distancing regulation—and so were the clothes. Few put on a jacket to work from home; to make the most of a blazer, you’ve got to head outside.Multiple incarnations of the piece made their way onto Ashida’s runway, but the lineup avoided business-casual blandness thanks to the details. There were tuxedo-esque cropped jackets adorned with oversized bows and knee-length single-breasted designs with a satiny sheen for the girls. Boys were given crisp white-on-white versions with dual textures and collars that extended into belts and classic houndstooth patterns paired with Bermuda shorts. The recurring checked pattern paired well with the collection’s standout motif, a wallpaper-worthy chinoiserie print.As the collection’s focus shifted toward after hours, Ashida hit her stride. There are fewer events to attend, given the current state of the world, but that party deficit means every occasion takes on special significance. As such, the eveningwear was relaxed and versatile enough to be worn to low-key functions. Several looks featured touches borrowed from the boudoir; gossamer-light column dresses with lace inserts and slips with an overlay of lacework replaced ballgowns. Even the stateliest gowns were offered in gauzy fabrics whose ruffles fluttered as models made their way down that Olympic track.
|
Janelle Okwodu
|
December 13, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/617fb8f540bf3c8d4cd298c0/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Tae-Ashida-Tokyo-Spring-22-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
tokyo
|
spring
|
2022
|
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] |
|
Tae Ashida
|
tokyo-fall-2021
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/tokyo-fall-2021/tae-ashida
|
Pre-pandemic, the idea of escaping into the woods seemed fantastical. The stuff of fairy tales and Sondheim musicals, the goal was impossible to achieve outside of a weekend spent at an Airbnb. Fast-forward a year and a half, and the idea is almost too real. In a moment defined by solitude, many have relocated to rustic new locations or reconfigured their lives to allow for social distancing. Either adjustment comes with a sense of isolation, something that Tae Ashida sought to address within her latest work. Her fall collection and its accompanying film take place in a woodland fantasy. Still, instead of going Brothers Grimm, Ashida approached folklore through the lens of futurism, meditating on what it means to be in seclusion in a world that continues to evolve rapidly.The subject felt timely. More importantly, it yielded interesting clothes as Ashida attempted to find the midpoint between the fanciful sweetness of fairy tales and austerity commonly associated with sci-fi. This comes through in the collection film by director Yasuhiko Shimizu and within its look book. Leaning futuristic, Ashida added warmth by softening sharp edges and including artsy flourishes on an otherwise stark piece. Without the watercolor flower on its bodice, the all-black midi-length dress would have seemed severe. Likewise, celestial embroidery featuring anthropomorphic moons and shooting stars on the back of cropped jackets kept the mood blithe. Collegiate staples like cricket sweaters emblazoned with a giantTand fitted cardigans served a similar purpose, the cozy familiarity of their presence tempering each look in which they featured.Fantasy may be trending thanks to the desire for escapism, but Ashida understands that her customers have to reckon with reality. They’ll venture into the woods metaphorically during the day, but ultimately those fuzzy sweaters and frilly blouses still need to be appropriate for Instagram selfies and Zoom meetings. As the outfits grew dressier, there was less need for moderation, and Ashida let loose accordingly. Gowns laden with transparent silver lace, lamé, and satin felt fit for a dream, one that will have relevance long after life has returned to normal.
|
Janelle Okwodu
|
March 20, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/605326fa43cb4a70b84af087/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Tae-Ashida-Fall-21.jpg"
] |
tokyo
|
fall
|
2021
|
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] |
|
Tae Ashida
|
tokyo-spring-2021
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/tokyo-spring-2021/tae-ashida
|
Usually, Tae Ashida presents her collections in a big way. The second-generation designer takes over the Tokyo Grand Hyatt and fills her front row with diplomats, dignitaries, and the city’s cool kids. The shows are always fun—Champagne flows and the scene after the final model walks is more akin to a party—but 2020 necessitated a change. This time around, Ashida created a special film focused on what she calls “healing expression,” a concept that focuses on the simple joys of touch and engaging with the natural world. Models posed alongside Dan Tsukamoto, the principal of the Tokyo Ballet, and artist Matt Kuwata, one of the aforementioned cool kids. A “living doll” on Instagram, Kuwata’s surrealist selfies take his features into uncanny valley territory. His presence, along with the internet-first presentation, added tension to the season’s core idea. Sure, everyone wants to become one with nature and achieve tranquility, but in the age of endless distraction, Facetune celebrities, and a global panic, can anyone actually attain those goals?Ashida’s answer was to create clothing that alluded to the rustic lifestyle and its charms. Olive peasant blouses and skirts printed with baby’s breath felt just right for a trip to the countryside, as did dip-dyed pleated dresses or jumpers covered in eyelets. The city slickers who enjoy Ashida’s designs are unlikely to be found roughing it in the woods, but no one loves the idea of country living more than those seeking to escape the metropolis. To that end, Ashida provided several sections devoted to escapism. Even the pieces that would work best in an urban setting—tweedy blazers, mesh leggings, and belted button-downs—were given a touch of the pastoral via fringe embellishment, floral patterns, or the addition of the official vacation shoe: espadrilles.The idea of clothing that soothes is compelling. This year’s difficulties have caused many to seek solace anywhere they can find it, and an outfit with the ability to uplift certainly can’t hurt. Ashida’s eveningwear is her strong suit, and she expanded her after-hours repertoire to connect with the overarching theme. Gowns were given embellishments that mimicked the look of falling flower petals and ombré in shades of sunset. Even the divergent pieces—a paint-splattered sequin tunic that snuck its way into the lineup—were playful, pretty, and sure to leave their wearer in high spirits.
|
Janelle Okwodu
|
October 20, 2020
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5f880b9753f8fb0848e3ed2e/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-TAE-ASHIDA-TOKYO-SPRING-21.jpg"
] |
tokyo
|
spring
|
2021
|
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]
] |
|
Tae Ashida
|
tokyo-fall-2020
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/tokyo-fall-2020/tae-ashida
|
Tae Ashida postponed its presentation this season due to concerns over the coronavirus. In these extenuating circumstances, Vogue Runway has made an exception to its policy and is writing about this collection from photos.Most collections that tackle rock and roll adhere to a formula: leather jacket, ripped denim, studs—lather, rinse. repeat. Even though many of the genre’s legends avoided the literal approach to dressing, the sound has become synonymous with a familiar set of visual cues. Instead of relying on the greatest hits, Tae Ashida looked to the tasteful side of the music scene for her fall 2020 output. “Double amplitude,” the vibrational measurement that stretches to infinity, served as the season’s starting point. The concept led to looks that were decadent with a hint of edge. The luxury of Ashida’s materials didn’t fade into the background, but the tone shifted to something darker than spring’s exploration of abstract art. Ashida’s rockers were of the refined variety, more Bryan Ferry than Axl Rose, but they had bite.The breadth of references available to her meant Ashida breezed through motifs with the ease of a Spotify playlist. There were hints of grunge (double-face plaid skirts paired with chunky black boots and baby doll dresses with satin pussy bows), glam (Bowie-worthy transparent leopard-print shirts for boys and girls), and even electronica (pixelated patterns that hummed with energy). Still, these are ultimately clothes for a refined (read: older, wiser, not Coachella bound) customer. Each moment of youthful insouciance was countered by a look for her core audience.The front row of Ashida’s runway shows is usually comprised of diplomats and heads of state, and their desires differ from those of actors and influencers. As such, the final segment segued into the traditional. The rock theme came through momentarily thanks to liberal use of metallic silk and performance-appropriate silhouettes like ’70s-style jumpsuits, but the majority of the evening looks skewed conservative. As lovely as the glittering finale pieces were, with the overload of sequins and ombré, they felt princess-y rather than punk. The collection’s high points came when Ashida threw caution to the wind and cranked things up to 11.
|
Janelle Okwodu
|
March 27, 2020
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e7b2577b39518000877a8b5/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-TAE-ASHIDA-Tokyo-Fall-20.jpg"
] |
tokyo
|
fall
|
2020
|
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|
Tae Ashida
|
tokyo-spring-2020
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/tokyo-spring-2020/tae-ashida
|
At first glance, it is easy to assume that Tae Ashida’s lively spring 2020 collection was referencing a specific artist. After all, the entire affair kicked off with nine looks devoted to abstract splashes of paint and cubist deconstructions of portraiture on cropped T-shirts and lightweight silk skirts; even the pops of pastel streaked across the faces of models like Yumi Lambert and Chiharu Okunugi had a Picasso-esque touch. Still, Ashida was less interested in paying homage to history’s masters and more concerned with the realities of modern techno-charged life. “There’s almost too much information out there now, and people are having a hard time with that,” Ashida shared of the symbolism. “The faces are a way of saying [that] we have to face this reality and decide individually how to deal with it.”The web theme came through in a stream of disparate elements. Thanks to Instagram and Google Images, we’re all primed to process an excess of visual information, and with each outfit, Ashida packed in the details. The focus shifted with the speed of infinite scroll, moving from zigzags and collegiate sweaters to prairie prints and pastels. At times the motifs complemented each other—the wavy lines worked surprisingly well when accented with fringe—but the collection was about a clash of ideas. The looks that played up this contrast were the most dynamic. A peacock-feather-printed scarf could stand on its own, but belted and worn with tailored trousers, it was a fresh take on the workwear blouse.After dark, the contrasts came in the form of metallic lace and loads of tulle. Refined gowns are Ashida’s specialty, but the feel and fabrications were lighter than previous seasons despite the wealth of ruffles and flowing trains. Menswear, a recent addition to the label that has served to inject a youthful perspective, received added polish thanks to core concepts implemented across gender lines. Soft-tailoring and embroidery are for everyone, and they elevated staples like bombers and tuxedo jackets. After the bright color and pattern of the beginning, the finale’s stately black and silver looks may seem comparatively subdued. Still, for Ashida, the palate cleanser was equally artistic. “The last pieces in the collection were a very Japanese touch,” she said. “There is so much happening that in a way, creativity and art have become even more important in our lives thanks to the internet. [Ultimately], it’s all about how you process it.”
|
Janelle Okwodu
|
October 23, 2019
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5da98a2b60134600082b73e7/master/w_1280,c_limit/_TAE0009.jpg"
] |
tokyo
|
spring
|
2020
|
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] |
|
Tae Ashida
|
tokyo-fall-2019
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/tokyo-fall-2019/tae-ashida
|
As the doyenne of Tokyo Fashion Week, Tae Ashida can always be counted on for elegant workwear and gala-worthy gowns, so imagine the shock waves sent through her audience when she began her Fall 2019 show with a bold new conceit: menswear. “I think this is something that we needed; we’ve been doing business for 55 years, and it’s [easy] to think that you know everything,” Ashida said postshow. “[Menswear] was something so new for us, so we had to start from scratch. We took new things into consideration in our everyday work and learned so much."The textured royal purple overcoat, anorak, and jeans worn by male model Chris Darton encapsulated Ashida’s vision for men with a look that was colorful, streetwise, and steeped in luxury. After seasons of having male friends and acquaintances inquire about pieces they might wear, she decided it was time to expand her horizons. “When I looked at them, I could picture them wearing the exact pieces they were inquiring about, so I thought, Why not?” she said. “I don’t have to make business suits; guys can wear anything.”The move into menswear occurs at a turning point for Ashida’s label. After the death of her father, acclaimed fashion designer Jun Ashida, last year, she is now at the helm of two of Japan’s largest brands. As such, maintaining a distinct identity for her eponymous range while evolving its scope were chief concerns. For day, the mood was youthful, filled with pattern and bright splashes of color. Pinks, purples, and punchy shades of lemon yellow featured on separates for men and women with long shirts for the boys, textured skirts for the girls, and a feeling that they could borrow from each other’s closets at any given time. Leopard spots and butterfly prints made for an unexpected juxtaposition on dressier looks, while a series of camel overcoats were appropriately luxe.Ashida’s eveningwear received an update thanks to futuristic fabrics and new silhouettes. Clients in search of a gala look will still have plenty of options, but slinky column gowns detailed with rainbow sequins and tiered looks with diamond embroidery felt fresh. The renewed energy of the collection was embodied by model Ai Tominaga, who closed the show in space-age silver and glossy leggings sauntering down the runway like a woman who just got her groove back.
|
Janelle Okwodu
|
March 25, 2019
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5c9210ea56af052de72d1402/master/w_1280,c_limit/DSC_4529.jpg"
] |
tokyo
|
fall
|
2019
|
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] |
|
Tae Ashida
|
tokyo-fall-2018
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/tokyo-fall-2018/tae-ashida
|
Tae Ashida was midway through crafting her Fall 2018 collection when she saw Hugh Jackman’s P. T. Barnum musical,The Greatest Showman, but the film’s pomp and circumstance aligned perfectly with themes she was already exploring. Shifting gears from Spring’s countryside influences, Ashida went for the high-drama thrill of unapologetic glamour. With a cinematic soundtrack swelling through the Tokyo Grand Hyatt and a host of high-powered women from the worlds of art and business filling the front row, Ashida sent out big-ticket gowns and boardroom-ready separates with flair. With the big top serving not as a direct inspiration but as an example of complementary creativity, Ashida avoided some of the pitfalls that come with tackling a well-worn theme. When show opener Cris Herrmann emerged on the runway wearing a red wool overcoat with angel wings covering its back, it called to mind ringmaster uniforms without verging into a literal retread.The romanticism of 19th-century fashion served as a recurring motif with top hats and tails making their ways into ensembles, black lace gowns steeped in Victoriana, and the appearance of a good old-fashioned petticoat. Rich textures like velvet and fur added to the sense of luxury, but even with the retro vibe, the majority of the pieces looked contemporary. Loose blouses covered in kerchief prints, tweed blazers, and glossy leather leggings were on-trend, as were the addition of uplifting slogans. “There’s something different about when you add words to a dress,” shared Ashida post-show. “It has the ability to add another level of meaning into the clothes.” Indeed, phrases like “sing like the wind, fly like the birds” and “no regrets, go forward” woven into trousers and tops provided affirmations, as did cheekier expressions like “so what’s next,” but the highlights didn’t need words at all.Closing the collections out with showstopper dresses that nodded to traditional Japanese fashion, Ashida ended with pieces including a blossom-covered lace and silk gown with an oversize sash, and a metallic striped number that took the kimono silhouette to voluminous new proportions. Stately, with a modern verve, the looks encapsulated the best of her brand and the season’s “the show must go on” message.
|
Janelle Okwodu
|
March 30, 2018
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5abb6e4bc5b9cc56a7d912c0/master/w_1280,c_limit/taeashida-2.jpg"
] |
tokyo
|
fall
|
2018
|
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] |
|
Tae Ashida
|
tokyo-spring-2018
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/tokyo-spring-2018/tae-ashida
|
Geared toward sophisticates in search of pieces that feel unique, Tae Ashida’s work has become a mainstay among royals, politicians, and ladies whose lunches are spent power brokering. In other words, you won’t find any novelty T-shirts or logo-covered windbreakers: Ashida specializes in clothes for grown-ups.Starting with a striped section featuring refined separates and dresses, the designer presented daywear for women who are going places. Classic black and white on the back of model Zlata Semenko gave way to a considerably more energetic interplay of color and pattern, with a vivid zigzag print covering cocktail dresses and tailored blazers. Ashida added a casual element via minidresses with intricate lacework, doll dresses, and bouclé separates in shades of red and blue, before transitioning into a safari-influenced series of separates, which included standards like double-breasted, trench-style sleeveless tops and snakeskin jackets with a glossy sheen. As wide-ranging as that sounds, it occasionally veered repetitious.Fabric plays an important role within Ashida’s designs, and often she will start with the material and build from there. “Once I begin designing, I realize that I want to express this element that is in the air within the garments—all these things that you see, feel, and touch that really come into a creation,” she shared postshow. This season she used metallic textures to great effect. Inspired by the natural beauty of the countryside and the gloss of light reflecting on the water, she accented skirts with liquid gold metallics and worked gossamer-like silk into suits appropriate for both the office and a weekend getaway to St. Mortiz. The inspiration also found its ultimate embodiment in a silver column dress that elicited raves from the audience.
|
Janelle Okwodu
|
October 23, 2017
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/59e98d64ae464b7aff407aaf/master/w_1280,c_limit/TAEASHIDA_005.jpg"
] |
tokyo
|
spring
|
2018
|
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] |
|
Tagliatore
|
spring-2024-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-menswear/tagliatore
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/648b6f5655936ebc9367a48c/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-tagliatore-spring-2024-menswear-credit-lorenzo-formicola.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2024
|
menswear
|
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] |
||
Tagliatore
|
fall-2023-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-menswear/tagliatore
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/63c17e0b0a7135f90616e712/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-tagliatore-fall-2023-menswear-credit-lorenzo-formicola.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2023
|
menswear
|
[
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]
] |
||
Talbots
|
spring-2012-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2012-ready-to-wear/talbots
|
After shying away from patterns of late, Talbots is bringing them back in response to customer demand. Considering the plentitude of printed pants and sheaths on view at its Spring presentation, it's safe to say that the brand will be giving its shoppers all they want and then some next season. "We've never given up on paisley," one Talbots employee explained at the preview. That practice paid off—the paisley silk palazzo pants, priced to sell at $119, were by far the collection's standout piece.Dresses are consistently best sellers for Talbots, and there were several that should be hits, including a vibrant color-blocked frock with a full skirt, which was cited as having "Michelle Obama potential" in the navy and white, nautical combination. Also of note were the affordable accessories (everything here is sub-$150). Raffia sling-backs with a kitten heel, for example, are ideal for the sensible Talbots woman who still wants to wear heels but is too no-nonsense to totter around in five-inchers.
|
Brittany Adams
|
October 27, 2011
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650d408298d8be216d73e/master/w_1280,c_limit/001fullscreen.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2012
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Talbots
|
fall-2011-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2011-ready-to-wear/talbots
|
For Fall, Talbots chief creative officer Michael Smaldone showed a collection inspired by Old Hollywood that hit on many of the season's key runway trends in a way that was accessible but not too watered down. That menswear feeling? Check. A Katharine Hepburn-esque pinstripe three-piece suit was styled just like the editors do it—with a long topper slung casually over the shoulders. How about statement-making fur? A Mongolian lamb vest and platform sandals with flirty fur trim kept things au courant. Which brings us to the terrific accessories, like the oversized pony-hair clutch in a variety of animal prints. A pebbled leather satchel may owe a debt to those structured Celine bags from last Fall, but all the Talbots customer will care about is that it looks great slung over her shoulder with some of the label's updated classics. In the latter category, Smaldone showed plenty of flattering trousers and A-line cocktail dresses (aimed, he said, at Michelle Obama) that should please the brand's core client base.
|
Brittany Adams
|
March 20, 2011
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650af08298d8be2146672/master/w_1280,c_limit/001fullscreen.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2011
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Talbots
|
spring-2011-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2011-ready-to-wear/talbots
|
Move over, Granny, there's a new Talbots customer in town. Julianne Moore is the face of the company's Spring campaign (sorry, no controversial nudity or lion cubs in these ads), and approaching 50 with indie film cred fully intact, she's the kind of modern woman the brand with the big red doors is trying to tap into by upping its hip quotient. Yes, we said "hip." Chief creative officer Michael Smaldone, previously at Anne Klein and Elie Tahari, is the man behind the design facelift Talbots has been undergoing the last few seasons. He's broadening the label's appeal to suit a younger set, with fashion-forward pieces like the suede paper bag-waisted shorts and cropped burlap blazer Moore modeled during her Mert & Marcus-snapped shoot. According to the designer, the actress wore that outfit home.Smaldone's inspiration for his Spring collection was the 1950's and the spiritual setting was Paris, so the silhouette is hourglass and the palette is macaroon bright. An abstract floral-print dress hits on the season's sheer trend, but the Talbots' take comes with a convenient slip to be worn underneath. The accessories are the unexpected high note of the makeover. Crocodile-stamped lightweight wedges and a small snake box bag with oversize ball clasps would fit right into any twentysomething's wardrobe (they'll like the under-$200 prices). But not to worry, Talbots has no intention of alienating its core audience. The classic blazer, cardigan, and white shirt are all still here, but with updated, "Grandma, can I borrow this?" fits.
|
Brittany Adams
|
October 24, 2010
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6515108298d8be21f656b/master/w_1280,c_limit/00010fullscreen.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2011
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Talia Byre
|
spring-2025-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/talia-byre
|
Talia Byre was feeling confident this season—and so too was her woman. When the designer speaks of this person, someone she refers to a great deal, she isn’t imaginary. She exists, and she needs clothes to wear. And Byre knows what this woman wants to wear before she even knows what she wants to wear.Thus far she has stayed true to Byre’s signatures: rugby tops with bias stripes, paneled trumpet skirts, crunchy bomber jackets, fitted jersey cardigans, and a playful minidress called the Bambino. For spring, these trademarks took on new guises. The rugbys came in a purple-striped pattern, with ruffled hemlines, and a high-shine disco jersey—whichsomeonecould wear with matching briefs, if they dare!—inspired by glossy, gummy Pipilotti Rist sculptures Byre saw in New York earlier this year. The jackets, which tapped into the ’80s references she looked at this season and her animal muse (crows), were exaggerated at the shoulders with gathered popped collars; cardigans arrived with Dennis the Menace stripes and a soft, hand-painted deer print by Harriet Cox. “Preppy but glam” is how Byre described it.“This is like a cat burglar,” she said, pointing at menacing striped capri pants complete with a matching drawstring bag on a chain. The Dennis the Menace reference was intentional. In fact, several cartoons—Scooby-Doo,The Flintstones—informed elements throughout the collection. Did Byre watch them during the design process or hark back to her fragmented memories of watching them as a child? The latter, it figures. Nostalgia was an overarching theme but not wholly in a literal way: “They remind me of the girls I went to school with,” she said of the individual looks.There’s a new contender in the foundational Talia Byre arsenal: the wrap dress, whose multi-wear silhouette was achieved after draping. Byre wore one as coffee-holding guests gathered to hear her proposition for spring. There were also new materials, including a two-tone shearling, seen as a waistcoat; a miniskirt that had a top part like tights so it fit under, say, a cashmere jumper (it comes as a full-fuzz miniskirt sans hosiery upper too); and suede, from which her belts and barrel bags were made this season.The mix-and-match capabilities of Byre’s pieces are very well suited to everyday wear, but she wanted to sprinkle in a dash of drama. Artistic illustrations danced across tights, while lace cuttings left over from working on her first bespoke bridal look—designed and fitted alongside her main line—became veils on beanies designed by collaborator James Pink, whom she met while studying.“We just had a good time making it,” she said of the team’s energy. “This is quite a real collection—me and the girls in the studio can wear it.” The day after her London appointments, she goes to New York to show her collections Stateside. Talia Byre is meeting more Talia Byre women at every turn.
|
Alice Cary
|
September 17, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/66e89f63e72bb78019d375e8/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-talia-byre-spring-2025-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2025
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Talia Byre
|
fall-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-ready-to-wear/talia-byre
|
As London’s Fashion Week came to a close, Talia Byre hosted an intimate presentation in her Hackney studio, featuring tipples from Lant Street Wines and homemade treats—including orange-blossom cakes and ginger biscuits—complemented by chic mid-century furniture curated by interiors maven Jermaine Gallacher. Byre’s refined taste shone through, setting the stage for her fall collection.Inspired by recent personal experiences, notably a transformative monthlong journey through Japan and Korea, as well as the uplifting atmosphere of her east London studio, Byre’s latest collection embodied a spirit of spontaneity infused with abundant joy. Bold prints and textures dominated, each piece meticulously crafted to a new level of elevation; pony hair, cow-print suits, zigzag camisole dresses, and striped rugby tops were standouts. Displayed against the stark white walls of her studio, each full look was presented on hangers. The designer imbued her signature silhouettes with gallerina peculiarities: asymmetric hemlines, abstracted houndstooth prints, layered and mismatched shirts. “I wanted to capture a vibe where being seen is a thrill and empowering all at once,” she said in a preview, “but also to push our silhouettes with a lot more pizzazz—these clothes are not for the shy!”While Byre’s collection is typically born from emotion rather than literal references, this season there were whispers of Amedeo Modigliani’s evolving portrayals of his muse and lover, Beatrice Hastings; the iconic girl groups of the 1960s like The Shangri-Las, whose song “Hate to Say I Told You So” inspired the collection’s name, Told You So; and the enduring charm of Hollywood’s Sweater Girl archetype, embodied by the likes of Lana Turner and Jayne Mansfield. This resulted in a mash-up of gorgeous knits in offbeat shades of crimson, navy, and umber. A dalmatian-print knit gown in teal, complete with a matching oversized scarf, felt particularly fabulous.Being part of Byre’s journey is an enriching experience, seeing a unique talent hone their craft without compromising their vision. She stands out among her peers by eschewing trends and resisting categorization into any aesthetic movement. This collection, though shown in a static setting, was her most compelling to date.
|
Alex Kessler
|
February 22, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/65d375b78067a5d267c331dc/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-talia-byre-fall-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-esther-theaker-at-artistry.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Talia Byre
|
spring-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/talia-byre
|
“It’s about having fun and being more experimental,” Talia Byre said of the thinking behind spring at a preview. Her new collection, Don’t Think Twice—named after Joan Baez’s 1963 rendition of Bob Dylan’s song—twisted her burgeoning namesake brand’s signatures with confidence. “We’ve gone bolder and sexier,” said Byre. “It felt right to push out of our comfort zone a bit more—there's a feeling of self-assurance.”Sexier was certainly the case, as the show unfolded at London’s Tenderbooks store in Soho. Bandeaus, corset tops, and strapless going-out dresses felt distinctly alluring, but without compromising the off-center, demure essence that the designer excels at. The silhouettes of her shirting remained consistent with previous seasons, characterized by prominent shoulders, cinched waists and elongated sleeves. This time, those pieces incorporated a chest peekaboo detail, revealing a subtle hint of skin. Balloon hot pants in vibrant shades were a fun addition to the lineup.There were twin-sets, consisting of zip-up jackets and full skirts with pockets crafted from high-shine nylons that were not only lightweight but also durable. The tactile experience of these garments brushing against the skin as models walked the intimate runway added an extra layer of sensory pleasure. Layering also played a pivotal role, with the integration of stacked black and white striped illusion knits and the addition of a sheer polka-dotted tulle overlay.This season, Byre introduced the Bolter, the brand’s first bag. At a glance, this leather accessory may appear as two distinct clutch and shoulder bags, but upon closer examination, it seamlessly transforms into a practical single piece ideal for everyday use. She remarked, “It’s aproperbag that’s for people who are always on the move.”For the color palette, the designer drew inspiration from mystical sources, notably referencing Annie Besant’s 1905 book,Thought Forms. She assigned intellectual significance to yellow, associated affection with pink, and denoted spirituality with lavender, among others. These choices manifested in knit separates, a hallmark of the Talia Byre brand, where various hues were combined to create wearable talismanic pieces.
|
Alex Kessler
|
September 18, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/65081ada495c7d6dee8999e3/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-talia-byre-spring-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-james-robjant.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Talia Byre
|
fall-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/talia-byre
|
Recently, Talia Byre has gone through some changes in her personal life. With such momentous shifts—as well as inspiration from the leading women of films likeThe Graduate and Funny Girl—the designer wanted to celebrate the ‘anti-hero’ with her fall collection. “The person I’m designing for is brash, greedy, selfish; all of what’s perceived as the worst traits to have,” she said in a preview. “But what’s great about them is that they’re also strong and independent—it’s their way of saying a big ‘fuck you’ to society.”The collection—titled Sadie, Sadie—explored the sort of wardrobe that an anti-hero figure would aspire to own. There was a duality of toughness while retaining sensuality, whether in the form of screen-printed leopard patterns on wool and cashmere pieces, or figure-hugging maxi dresses in black and dark cherry brown. “This season, sexiness is expressed more subtly,” Byre said. “However, a look can unravel into more daring silhouettes with the undoing of a single button.”With color being integral to her creative process, Byre took shades from American painter Helen Frankenthaler’sJacob’s Ladder, including brown, lilac, grapefruit, and emerald green. The tailored coats were particularly strong—one in navy wool with a dangerously high slit up the back, and another featuring a hood constructed from waterproof technical fabric. A cotton poplin shirt dress with woven stripes, a dramatically cinched waist-line, and voluminous sleeves was also worth noting.In sum, the collection was a departure from the pastels and fluid silhouettes of the previous season, which is a welcome development. It’s refreshing to see Byre push past working predominantly with knit. “I feel like the whole vibe is more grown-up and realistic,” she said. “Life’s not always going to be rosy—sometimes it’s about being tough, taking matters into your own hands, and doing what makes you happy.”
|
Alex Kessler
|
February 19, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/63f2826e0cd8c4a1c9f4e5b3/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-talia-byre-fall-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Talia Byre
|
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/talia-byre
|
The Queen’s passing in September prompted Talia Byre to reschedule her debut runway show. Last week, amidst the Frieze goings-on, the designer presented her collection at Sweetings restaurant in the heart of London. “From my research, I discovered that the first known designers frequently presented their creations to friends and family in restaurant settings,” she explained. “I love the idea of intimate gatherings of people sharing a table with food as models walk by—plus, a lot of our private clients are in the art world, so it actually made sense to show at this time of year.”Byre—who comes from a family of Liverpudlian tailors and owners of a women’s clothing boutique—has a natural talent for knitwear and drapery, but her ability to bring together a distinctive (and charming) color palette is just as relevant. She introduced a range of tones for spring that looked especially elegant, in her trademark off-center way. Figure-hugging, lightweight cotton knit cardigans in rose pink, grapefruit, and acid green exuded a subtle sexiness, while she used a particular shade of cream, called Isabelline, for clingy poplin knit twin sets and dresses that emulate corsetry. “The collection is all about building the perfect summer holiday wardrobe, so I wanted to focus on a tight edit of colors that reflected this mood,” she said.Another important element to Byre’s designs is movement. An example might be a miniskirt made of stretch wool in vibrant fuchsia that sways when worn, or an immaculately tailored white silk wool suit with pants featuring a smart grosgrain detail on the waist that was inspired by vintage men’s trousers. She remarked, “some of my pieces can be quite form-fitting, but people need to be able to move with ease and feel comfortable, otherwise it’s not enjoyable to wear.”Byre delivered a collection that felt succinct and elevated, a step forward from previous seasons. The knitwear pieces were exceptional, but the selection of tailoring deserved recognition, too—perhaps it’s an area she could hone in on further.
|
Alex Kessler
|
October 17, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/634d177191704207a8bec0bb/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-talia-byre-spring-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-james-robjant.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Talia Byre
|
fall-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/talia-byre
|
Though the fall 2022 womenswear season has not begun in earnest yet, the collections shown amidst the men’s and couture shows have displayed a fascination with breasts. Here’s a drawing of a breast, the outline of a bosom, a totally sheer top… all designed by men. Hmm. British designer Talia Byre is too sensitive to a woman’s life and too tuned-in to the geography of a woman’s mind to be so obvious with her stitchings up and dressings down of femininity.The black dress in her fall 2022 collection cuts out a new way to approach bosomy sensuality. She designed it by patching together pieces to define the bustline, the tight waist, the long torso, and let it loose to pleat in a skirt and train. When her longtime fit model tried it on, the collaged knits acted like a bustier, pushing up the breasts like a balconette. “Kind of sexy!” Byre laughed, almost surprised. “I thought it was an office dress, but maybe it’s an evening one.”Unlike what the boys do, Byre’s clothes are not garments about your body. They are for your body, crafted with the utmost attention to the wrinkles of womanhood. It’s no wonder that Byre’s fandom stretches wide: Her 17-year-old cousin recently visited her studio to try on pieces, styling them low-rise and slinky as is the look for Gen Z girls. On the other end of the spectrum, modesty accounts follow Byre on Instagram and recommend her full-coverage knits, now available in moss green mohair.In concept, her fall 2022 collection, titled Duet, pulls from two dance performances with that title: Yvonne Rainier and Trisha Brown’s from 1963 and Merce Cunningham’s from 1980. The friction between the classicism of ballet and abstraction of modern dance is Byre’s driving force; she equates it to her practice: “My silhouettes are super classical but chopped up inside,” she says. Acid greens and lilacs are pulled from the costumes of Cunningham’s dancers, painstakingly dyed to be the exact hue. Other pieces have layered nylon pouf skirts, as if Ungaro designed a tutu. A lavender warm-up suit is outrageously alluring for both its volume and its ease.In addition, she’s expanded her repertoire to include tight-fitting blazers fastened with hooks and eyes, narrow in the shoulder, arm, and bust, and flaring out over the hips. They are paired with coordinating skirts that look like minis with midi skirts peeking out underneath. Styled with blouson nylon pants, pouf skirts, and even leotard bottoms, the blazers’ versatility proves the breadth and efficacy of Byre’s ideas. Every garment has a purpose, but it only has a life when you make it your own. From a woman’s mind, a woman’s wardrobe is born.
|
Steff Yotka
|
January 24, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/61eecbab201fe8db0bc39c5a/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Talia-Byre-Fall-22-rtw-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2022
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Talia Byre
|
spring-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-ready-to-wear/talia-byre
|
Talia Byre tends to show her eponymous womenswear at the tail end of the men’s shows in Europe. The collections in Milan and Paris mostly looked like piles ofstuff, every model laden with accessories and collaborations and little tricks to generate buzz. Byre’s work is so emotional and human and purposeful, showing it after such a consumerist display made her look miles better.Byre is a designer’s designer, who said over a video call that “fittings are her favorite thing.” She tends to refit and re-assess her pieces every two days or so, dicing up pieces from past seasons to make new, provocative silhouettes. Spring 2022 is a meditation on color, each hue inspired by tones she stumbled on in a box of vintage thread and meticulously hand-crafted herself. Creamy bubblegum pink, pure tomato red, glum indigo, and dirty white come together in knit bodysuits, sweaters, and dresses that lap up the female body. She tries her pieces on herself, her sister Freya, and a fit model to make sure seams and cuts come in just right. After weeks ofstuffall you can really say about Byre’s work is: gorgeous.It’s also meaningful. Byre’s grandparents owned the popular Liverpudlian store Lucinda Byre and remnants of their collections still exist in Byre’s life. A pleated midi skirt—quickly becoming a signature for her young brand—is called the “Everlasting Skirt”; it’s shape is inspired by a piece she inherited and loves. “Everything with me is ritual and heritage,” she said, as she walked through each of her 17 looks. There’s her own heritage, growing up in the North of England in a family connected to the sartorial spirit, and then there is the heritage of her clothes themselves, which are mostly made up of old clothes. Her clever upcycling innovation this season—aside from her ever-more-lush knits—is a leather skirt made of old trousers, cut to look like pants when standing still, but imbued with motion otherwise. The elegance and layering of dancers is another of Byre’s references, as are the Stettheimer sisters and their artworks, though the beauty of her garments is that you don’t need to know the why to fall in love.
|
Steff Yotka
|
July 2, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/60df4818f33e80c3ef3a55cd/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Talia-Byre-Spring-2022-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2022
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Tamara Mellon
|
spring-2016-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/tamara-mellon
|
Tamara Mellon, the cofounder and former CEO ofJimmy Choo, is a businesswoman with a flourishing eponymous line and the empire-touting uniform to match. It makes sense that she has a knack for translating that knuckle-under look into her collections. Her latest was a riff on the “I am woman, hear me roar” soundtrack of the ’70s translated into body-skimming frocks, long and lean jumpsuits, and plenty of look-at-me shine.So what does the wardrobe of the fearless woman who has it all include? There were Amazonian Lynda Carter as Wonder Woman references; a hot pink maxi dress spliced in the midsection with a studded leather eyelet for a sliver of skin; and a thick bodice wrapped around the waist of a light dress for a cinched hourglass look.There was also a dash of Studio 54, with nods to other retro heroines of the night, like a slinky silver Lurex jumpsuit which could have been worn by Bianca Jagger. As for Mellon’s bold signature punch of animal prints, there was a bare-shoulder leopard-print frock complete with a thigh-skimming slit. Perhaps thinking of the woman on the go, Mellon referenced the optic white jumpsuits she designed for the crew of Blade, a helicopter service that flies passengers to the Hamptons. This time, she made them in dark denim, complete with a thick collar and a front zipper—a piece which ought to make the wearer feel like she’s in the pilot’s seat.
|
Liana Satenstein
|
September 10, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55f1ce26822e0025344c3b06/master/w_1280,c_limit/tamara-mellon-rtw-spring-2016-001.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2016
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Tamara Mellon
|
resort-2016
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2016/tamara-mellon
|
HowXanaducan a collection go without it feeling kitsch? Pretty far, as long as you forgo the roller skates. Tamara Mellon proved as much with her Resort collection, which was inspired by a "cosmic woman." Mellon showed a cold-shoulder blouse in the prettiest pale blue, a peach dress sequined with celestial bodies, and a peacock-printed tunic, all channeling the season's familiar '70s vibe but in an irresistible way. Along with the seasonal showpieces—including a jumpsuit dripping in fringe—Mellon brought back some of her signatures. A car-wash-fringe skirt, for instance, was rendered this time in a gray workwear wool. In accessories, the news was the cone heel, which Mellon said was designed with the season's muse in mind. It was of that era, sure, but it also looked modern attached to the bottom of a strappy sandal. As did a viscose-jersey gray-heather maxi dress, which was so soft and luxurious one might be willing to pay just to touch it.It's been nearly two years since Mellon launched her namesake collection, and the designer is now opening her own shop—a pop-up in the Hamptons set to debut in July. She has also designed the uniforms for the Blade helicopter service, which offers trips out east and back. Sounds like a smart move. Mellon's customer does not seem like one to wait in Long Island Expressway traffic.
|
Lauren Sherman
|
June 11, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650bb08298d8be21537cb/master/w_1280,c_limit/tamara-mellon-001-1366.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2016
|
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] |
||
Tamara Mellon
|
fall-2015-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/tamara-mellon
|
Tamara Mellon is still preaching the "buy now, wear now" gospel. Her Fall collection will drop in increments, starting with silks in August, followed by structured styles in September, and wool, alpaca, and fur throughout October, November, and December, when a person actually needs those things. But Mellon has changed her mind on one account: Instead of showing the upcoming season's collection to press just a few months beforehand, she's back on the fashion calendar, presenting Fall in February.It's a practical tweak that gives Mellon as much editorial exposure as her competition. For instance, butterflies were an emerging trend this season, and Mellon's wing-dotted suede shoes and fluttering lace insets will make for a good trend story come September. She named her collection Witchy Woman, showing pointy pumps and a velvet-lace catsuit, as well as a Mongolian fur vest against sharp and seductive daywear, including a pair of high-waist trousers and a seamed jumpsuit in wool crepe.It's no surprise that Mellon does leather well, given that accessories were her original trade. Her fringed skirt with shots of neon chartreuse green was the most compelling piece in the lot. (On the other hand, a fabric-fringe cocktail dress was easier to ignore.) As for accessories: The news was the thigh-high boot with a trompe l'oeil heel. Mellon had them cut superhigh on the thigh to prevent tugging. Sexy can be practical, too.
|
Lauren Sherman
|
February 19, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c651d908298d8be229368e/master/w_1280,c_limit/Tamara-Mellon-01-1366.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2015
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Tamara Mellon
|
fall-2014-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2014-ready-to-wear/tamara-mellon
|
The rest of New York may be showing their Resort collections, but Tamara Mellon is sticking to her buy-now-wear-now guns. Mellon's Fall deliveries were on view in her showroom this week. She preaches versatility and practicality, and she believes in making fashion useful for women, but she likes to have her fun. As has become the custom at this burgeoning brand, the vibe was take-no-prisoners. Lots of glittery lamé, even more fox fur and leopard print, and plenty of black leather, some of it trussed up with punky grommets.Her much-talked-about hybrid legging boots are now on offer in white, and among the other novelties in the footwear department were knee-high and thigh-high suede boots laser-cut to resemble fishnet stockings. It's no surprise the accessories are getting a lot of attention—Mellon is the founder of Jimmy Choo, after all. As for the ready-to-wear, there was nothing that had the irresistible pull of the fringed suede skirt she did for Spring. What came closest was probably the fitted black leather flight suit.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
June 11, 2014
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6514208298d8be21e42e1/master/w_1280,c_limit/Tamara_Mellon_001_1366.1366x2048.JPG"
] |
fall
|
2014
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Tamara Mellon
|
pre-fall-2014
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2014/tamara-mellon
|
New York designers just finished putting their Fall collections on the runway—last week was nonstop snow and shearling. Tamara Mellon is holding showroom appointments for her May, June, and July deliveries, and true to the buy-now, wear-now ethos of her new brand, what we saw were summertime clothes, the kind of pieces you pack for a seaside vacation. Eyelet dresses, metallic lace bikinis, a split-seam maxi skirt in a boho patchwork of prints—all very Saint-Tropezienne in spirit. Even the cutouts had cutouts. For girls who won't be hitting the beach, Mellon included some fringed suede pieces, which reverberated nicely with what was happening on the Fall runways and looked good with her go-to leopard prints. But there was no escaping the fact that this was ultimately a getaway collection. After fifty-something inches of snow this season—and counting!—her rainbow leather flip-flops looked mighty sweet.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 16, 2014
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6513708298d8be21da397/master/w_1280,c_limit/Tamara_Mellon_001_1366.1366x2048.JPG"
] |
pre-fall
|
2014
|
[
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] |
||
Tamara Mellon
|
spring-2014-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2014-ready-to-wear/tamara-mellon
|
Tamara Mellon's ambition is no less than to change the entire fashion system. "It can't be a six-month gap" between when a collection is shown and when it is sold, she insists. A continuous "Endless Collection" of permanently available basics makes up the backbone of her namesake line—fine-gauge cashmere tees and tanks, upscale sweats, and the all-in-one legging boot, which doesn't look like much on the hanger but is a best seller—while the trend-driven portion is shown quarterly and delivered monthly."In my previous life, when we'd do things by collections, there were always too many ideas," Mellon says. Inevitably some would get cut for the cohesion of the whole. Not here. Bringing a fashion collection into the same frantic roundelay that the rest of world cycles through frees Mellon to indulge in as many mini-trends as she likes: cutout tops and dresses, inspired by a vintage photo of Veruschka, for March, fringed flapper skirts for April. There were forays into Harley-Davidson homages—in the half-length, studded-leather leggings and studded pencil skirts—though there was a hearty helping of Versace in those, too. Overall, the collection had a voracious sex appeal, which should make it salable indeed—and only more so when Mellon's e-commerce launches in mid-January, and brick-and-mortar stores, which are in the works, open in New York and London after that.Mellon being the brains behind Jimmy Choo (read all about it in her recent memoir), attention was always paid to the shoes. And there were fine options here, from pumps to gladiator sandals, and even a few unlikely thong-cutout booties. They bear evocative names such as Wild, Tease, Basic Instinct, and, our favorite, Iconic Bitch. It goes to show that, change the system however much you like, some things will always stay the same. You still have to dress for the job you want.
|
Matthew Schneier
|
December 11, 2013
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6512d08298d8be21ceb08/master/w_1280,c_limit/Tamara_Mellon001_1366.1366x2048.JPG"
] |
spring
|
2014
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Tanya Taylor
|
pre-fall-2025
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2025/tanya-taylor
|
Yeehaw! Tanya Taylor brings a Canadian eye to Americana for a pre-fall collection that nods to TikTok’s “farm girl” obsession. The most obvious riffs on the source are refreshingly abstracted bandana-style prints, and denim, which is used on a wear-forever A-line paneled skirt and used for patch pockets on cotton separates. Taylor also made use of apron silhouettes—see the blue-and-white striped dress with embellishment on the bodice layered over a charming white tee with striped bows at the shoulders.Layering is a theme that is repeated throughout the offering, as it’s an easy way to create a new look. Taylor says she’s seeing a return to dresses and responded accordingly: There are slip-style dresses, frocks featuring mixed prints and handkerchief hems, as well as voluminous dresses made of yards of fabric that swish around the body or can be tamed with a belt. The more fitted silhouettes, like a warm brown “tennis” dress; a one-piece that looks like two, featuring a tan button-front vest and pleated black skirt; and a balletic tank dress in tonal shades of persimmon commanded attention. If you are in the market for khakis, look no further than Taylor’s; at once sharp and slouchy, they feature wide legs, deep pleats, and sit easily on the hip bones, and possess a versatility that allows them to convey a down-home or downtown vibe.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
December 3, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/674ec11427f35060d8973c4f/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-tanya-taylor-prefall-2025-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
pre-fall
|
2025
|
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||
Tanya Taylor
|
spring-2025-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/tanya-taylor
|
Tanya Taylor’s spring collection was based around her idea of a perfect day. For the designer and artist, that would involve painting and cruising between her studio and an art-supplies store on a skateboard. “When you’re in an art store, you feel like all your tools are around; you could create anything. And there’s something about someone on a skateboard that’s pure freedom. It’s like the wind in your hair and the control of where you’re going.” With all this in mind, Taylor’s goal was to create a day-off kind of feeling to the collection; she didn’t want things to look too polished or perfect. Styling a pretty pistachio satin dress with a twisted strap with slippers didn’t push the idea far enough; relaxed trousers in beige and apricot that you could wear with any number of cute tops, from a gingham bikini to tie-back peplum halters or a slouchy marinière sweater, did.As usual, Taylor created the prints for the season. The boldest was of tulips, printed on a T-shirt and on pleated skirts once they had been produced, so when you sit or move, the print would be interrupted. A gingham-front trench coat was fun; from the back, the only hint of what lay ahead was the checked collar. In terms of investments, you couldn’t go wrong with a long, sleeveless, scoop-neck denim column with corset seaming: It was flirty, fitted, and fab. Also strong was a LBD–tennis dress hybrid with buttons down the extended front that opened up into a fuller skirt. A white short top with cutouts edged in green and puffed sleeves could similarly be dressed up or down.This felt like a little-bit-of-everything collection; there was gingham, eyelet, stripes, knits, cutouts, denim, satin, beading, and more. This was in keeping with the theme, a free-pass-to-do-as-you-please day, yet the collection seemed tighter than the preceding ones. Taylor pointed out that the dress buyers gravitated to was Look 24, a butter yellow sheath with a full skirt with thin bands of black threaded eyelet at the princess sleeves, and wider ones at the side of the waist. It was a bit ’60s Lily/Jackie/Camelot and quite nostalgic. Which vibes with Taylor’s own effusive mood: “I love connecting back to what my youthful state of mind was,” she said. “And my youthful state of mind was always about freedom.” Let it ring.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
September 14, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/66e30e30f27c4a9691403b9d/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-tanya-taylor-spring-2025-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2025
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Tanya Taylor
|
resort-2025
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2025/tanya-taylor
|
“Resort,” mused Tanya Taylor, “is one of those seasons that’s definitely between moods…it has to be a lot of things.” The opening look of her collection, a cheery explosion of texture, color, and graphics, does indeed embrace a sense of muchness. “I love mixing stripes, I love playful color combinations, and the spirit of resort feels like it’s starting there,” she said of an ensemble of spliced shirting cottons consisting of a pocketed shirt and pleated skirt.She followed this up with a reissue of the much-requested Marina balloon-sleeved blouse, paired with slightly high-waisted tailored denim that looks “a little bit more elongated and dressed up” than your usual pair of jeans. This slim line carries over to a fitted brown-stitched chalk-white denim midi dress with center-front zipper. Add a sweater and you can wear it all year round. “I feel a responsibility to design things that will make a customer’s life more beautiful, better, give them more confidence. And then I also want to surprise them. It’s balancing practical and fantasy,” she said. “I don’t feel successful if I design something that everyone loves in a lookbook, but nobody buys.”Hybrid looks, like a cotton/knit shirtdress or a one-piece-that-looks-like-two sweater-topped dress with pleats, continue Taylor’s interest in a kind of easy yet polished day “uniform.” Of a finer vintage is a slightly flared column dress with black sequin embroidery in a delicious color combination of fuchsia and merlot.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
June 6, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6661e95ce3930f18bb26c7bc/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-tanya-taylor-resort-25-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2025
|
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||
Tanya Taylor
|
fall-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-ready-to-wear/tanya-taylor
|
“I’ve been so interested in how many brands are taking a more realistic perspective in making clothes for real people,” said Tanya Taylor on a walk-through of her fall collection. That approach is something that’s always appealed to her, and does so even more now that she has her own boutique and can track what people are reacting to. “I can’t put crazy clothes in my store,” she said. “I have real women with amazing jobs and low amounts of time walking in, and I have to sell them three to four pieces that make people unbelievably gorgeous, but not necessarily for an event.” Pretty printed party dresses were this brand’s first claim to fame. Taylor really has made strides broadening her offering in the hopes of creating a non-uniform uniform for busy and style-conscious women like herself.Moodboards and fantastical narratives aren’t part of Taylor’s approach to design, rather everything relates back to her own life and her take on styling. One of the designer’s aims this season was to reframe charcoal gray, a color she associates with her old school uniform and which is prominent in Wall Street-like menswear. She upended convention by pairing nicely tailored smoky pants with a pouf of a polka-dot jacquard top. That motif and shape (which was also used on short dresses) carries the fragrance of the ’80s, a popular touch point this season. Taylor’s main reference was her own work, however. Fall 2023’s fringed skirt was back as a dress (with a matching fringed purse), in part because customers asked for the former, as are a best-selling pair of stone washed jeans from six years ago that are still requested. The sequin-skirts (a different take on polka-dots) and jeweled obi-like treatments of pre-fall were also reimagined. “I feel like I’ve taken this Bandaid off of [the idea that] everything has to be new,” she said. That’s a realization many designers are coming to, and it’s a wise one. Here, it gave the collection a bit of a “piecey” vibe, though it did create a throughline of cohesion with the designer’s larger body of work.Taylor’s take on the ski-sweater, made in angora using multicolored space dyed yarns, was pretty and novel. Working with suede for the first time, she cut it into light forever coats. “To me, this felt like a love letter,” said Taylor of a dress and coat with a hand-embroidered floral that seemed to form a continuous picture. “I kept thinking, ‘where does novelty live?”’ The answer is in unexpected and unfussy details like these.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
February 12, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/65caa2ef3798741e47716044/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-tanya-taylor-fall-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-martina-keenan-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Tanya Taylor
|
pre-fall-2024
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2024/tanya-taylor
|
Tanya Taylor’s use of orange in her pre-fall collection is like a visual shot of vitamin C for a wardrobe. A sleeveless pleated cotton midi-dress, a paillette-covered slip skirt, and a mini with the same discs applied over a blue-and-white shirting fabric visible at the waist and hem deliver that citrus color pop in venti, grande, and tall proportions, as it were.The designer is reveling in the feedback she’s been getting in her new Madison Avenue shop and also responding to it. “I’ve always wanted to create for real people,” Taylor said in a preview. “Having the store helped me build lanes of how we do denim, how we do playful and magical….” A great example of the former is a sailor-like top with buttoned sleeves reflective of her desire to “make pieces that feel more versatile with the opening of buttons, with tying, with the way you can style things more fun.” Most fanciful is a dress featuring one of Taylor’s own floral designs, with ribbon and fabric streamers cascading down from the shoulders.“No one’s typecasted,” said Taylor when asked what she has observed at the store. This is reflected in a balanced lineup in which there is room for a polished tropical wool pantsuit with a slightly cropped shirt jacket and a more casual-leaning Breton stripe, which is placed horizontally on a tunic dress and cute everyday top. All in all, a collection of relatable pieces that possess that elusive something extra. Once primarily known for her floral dresses, Taylor is growing as a designer.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
December 8, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/65703e17ce6661c1d26dba30/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-tanya-taylor-prefall-2024-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
pre-fall
|
2024
|
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] |
||
Tanya Taylor
|
spring-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/tanya-taylor
|
Having just opened her first store across the street from the Carlyle on Madison Avenue—a glossy space filled with temptations—Tanya Taylor now has both up- and downtown cred. She also has a spring collection that will work in many different zip codes.Once synonymous with pretty, somewhat ladylike printed dresses—which are, and will always remain, a core product for the brand—Taylor has convincingly evolved and expanded her offering. She arrived at this point by putting in the work: traveling to American cities, visiting stores, helping fit customers, and listening to and acting on their feedback. “I’m obsessed with asking about their lives,” the designer said. What she discovered is that the customer is interested in what she is as well, which is developing “a uniform in a creative way.” This type of uniform has nothing to do with brass buttons, epaulets, or conformity, but it is something that makes the wearer feel good and somehow right for the occasion. There might not be hard and fast rules in fashion today—Glamour’s Dos and Don’ts column is a thing of the past—but many women are still looking for guidance about how to put things together. (Hence, the power of influencers.)Taylor, who for the past few seasons has styled her look books, has started meeting that need by creating one-and-done pieces that look like they are separates. A great example of this for spring was a sleeveless striped knit (oriented on a slant) with an attached pleated skirt. Layering is another of the designer’s tricks; for spring she offered many lovely variations on the corset top. There were tube-shaped ones in denim (natural and indigo) that she showed over a print. There was a zip-front number that flared a bit at the hips; more extravagant were the beaded corselets (with and without straps) that could be hooked entirely or partially closed. As Taylor explained that she had incorporated impressions brought back from an art-filled trip to Japan, this viewer couldn’t help but read the lilac corselet in the first look as a relative of an obi.Refreshingly, the designer wasn’t literal with her inspirations. Everything “had an element of surprise in Japan,” she noted, “which brought out more of that in me. I spent a lot of time this season thinking about unexpected layering, but also how to bring out some embroideries and some details and some three-dimensionality in what we are creating, and then for color, just how to really keep it fresh and surprising and bright.” This far-flung journey seems to have brought the designer, who wear tests her work, in even closer touch with her collection, and the customer is sure to sense that.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
September 7, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/64f8e35d1ce79fedf73dcaf7/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-tanya-taylor-spring-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-brand-martina-keenan.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Tanya Taylor
|
resort-2024
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2024/tanya-taylor
|
How does your garden grow? It’s a question that is always relevant at Tanya Taylor; florals, many drawn or painted by the designer herself, are the heart and soul of this brand. For resort, there are woven jacquards with overblown flowers in what the brand calls “peony pink with brandy” and black and white and knit jacquard blooms on tank dresses with a compression-like fit. A black sweater boasts petals at the cuff. The idea, Taylor said, was that the sleeves should “feel like they’re dipped in a flower.”This dreamy idea has been translated into a piece that works in an everyday wardrobe. “I’ve been thinking, What is our uniform? Because our uniforms aren’t basic, right?” the designer mused. Her answer is a button-down with patchwork sleeves paired with a pleated skirt in a bright floral watercolor print, which combines workaday elements with romantic femininity. A washed-denim dress with a built-in bra-like detail does much the same, via a different route.Much of the collection iterated on familiar silhouettes—a classic trench was updated with gingham details, while openwork details embellished utilitarian khaki—but the takeaway here was the idea of building a uniform that’s anything but basic.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
June 7, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/647f756fc3f3685756851113/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-tanya-taylor-resort-2024-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2024
|
[
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] |
||
Tanya Taylor
|
fall-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/tanya-taylor
|
Tanya Taylor has often translated her artwork into prints for her pretty dresses, but the expressiveness and the hand of her paintings seemed to exist only on canvas. Over the past few seasons the designer appears to have loosened up, and approached her collections with a freer hand. Fall’s collection was one of her most joyous and expansive yet; it should appeal to existing customers and attract new ones.Those pretty dresses haven’t gone anywhere. In addition to the season’s floral print there were hand-drawn stripes with a perfect imperfection. If a flamenco skirt were a sleeve, that would describe those on a fantastic over-printed lamé number that flashed gold. Monochrome dresses, some in what Taylor called a magic stretch scuba material, had twists and ties that shaped the silhouette. “I kept thinking about how my designs speak to a lot of different people,” said Taylor, who is serious about inclusive sizing.Though dresses are the brand signature, they had competition from wonderful knits (some in a cheery chartreuse) fluttering with feathers that would add a touch of luxury to any wardrobe. Also on the move was fringe. A skirt made from sparkling strands of the stuff was paired with a teddy-soft sweater. “I was obsessed with styling, thinking about how to make things feel like they’re cozy, but also with a sense of surprise,” Taylor said on a walkthrough. One unexpected touch is that the plaid on the skirt with a knit corselet was printed, which kept things light. In contrast, the checked mohair coat had a rich hand, as did an oversized herringbone coat.Speaking of her blazers with silver-thread fringe hanging from the lapel, the designer said, “I wanted to make sure they had a little bit of spontaneity to them, or that they felt like there was something delightful.” It’s an approach that she employed throughout the collection, on pieces like a twisted yarn sweater with fringe or a Poiret rose-patterned metallic evening coat with a warm golden glow.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
February 9, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/63e5168a258ccc345439f612/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-tanya-taylor-fall-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Tanya Taylor
|
pre-fall-2023
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2023/tanya-taylor
|
It would be going too far to say that pre-season collections are sequels to the main season ones, but generally speaking, they lean heavily toward the continuation and building upon existing ideas, while adding a bit of something new. Such was the case at Tanya Taylor. She knows that it just makes sense for her customer, who comes to her because they know they’ll find pretty printed or knitted dresses, no matter their size. (Kudos to the designer for her focus on inclusivity.)Some of the curvy shapes of last season’s separates were streamlined for resort; see a black-edged floral organza bralette top and skirt. There were innovations in knitwear, too: ripple edges added a feminine touch, and the designer worked on the idea of “almost replacing smocking with knitwear.” She continued, “It’s interesting thinking of how we can have these really detailed ribs that give that femininity and flutter, and still fit the body in a way that women are really wanting right now.”Stretch fabrics used alone, as in a comfortable but body-supporting scuba-crepe draped dress, or in combination with a woven, contributed to creating an easy-breezy resort feeling. Ditto the polka dots and the signature florals. A painter, Taylor creates her own patterns, and this season she experimented with digital drawing after taking a CFDA-offered course. “I went to Washington Square Park and started making all the prints and I felt like I was a student again,” she explained. “There’s something kind of fresh about thinking of two colors coming together in really vibrant ways, like cinnamon and turquoise. It felt a little more like abstract flowers, less detailed—I really wanted it to just be about color.”Taylor achieved that goal in the color blocked dress that closes the lookbook, a blue and pink column sliced asymmetrically with some float in the skirt. It’s unusual, but welcome, to see such clean, graphic lines from the designer, which perhaps we’ll see more of. “I started a new process for fall for how to think about color and outfits,” Taylor explained. “On my iPad, I just start to put three colors in strokes and say, ‘Okay, this is going to be our coat, this is going to be our pant,’ pre-styling things through a color lens.”
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
November 17, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/63760189c4a62d079e1a3d00/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-tanya-taylor-pre-fall-2023-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
pre-fall
|
2023
|
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] |
||
Tanya Taylor
|
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/tanya-taylor
|
Westbeth Artists Housing, a creative enclave in the West Village, served not only as the setting of Tanya Taylor’s spring look book but also as the inspiration for the collection in a multitude of ways. She translated the “graphicness” of the brick and concrete architecture, for example, into airy half-circle cutouts on a skirt, but the overall direction of the lineup came from the residents. “It’s inspiring how the people just are; there’s a freedom to what they’re creating,” said Taylor, a painter herself. Their “sense of spontaneous art felt like a place I wanted to start the collection.” And so the designer set about creating prints that conjured, in her words, “a beautiful mess.”There’s always been a dichotomy in Taylor’s work between her expressionistic art and the more traditionally feminine silhouettes she tends to design, and which customers who want to look pretty and appropriate have come to rely upon. Yet just as Westbeth feels like a city within a city, a sort of free space for Taylor, there are hints in her collection—and its styling—of things loosening up a bit and going off in positive new directions. That can be seen in the way some of the looks are constructed. “I love structure and fluid coming together,” enthused the designer, who showed several looks that combined knit and woven elements in a single garment. The layering of colors and separates seems to mimic how paint and shapes overlap and interact on canvas, and allows the wearer to make her own creations.Taylor was especially interested in a mix of textures for spring, and her fabrics included a light scuba crepe, nylon, and hammered silk. An eyelash bouclé was used for a polo-style cardigan that was paired with a leopard-print skirt, both in shades of softest green. It’s Taylor’s eye for color that evokes emotion in this collection. An open cable-knit sweater has yellow cuffs, as if dipped in paint, that match the pants its worn with. There’s a longline rib-knit merino dress with bra-like details and fullness at the hem in a deep persimmon-y hue. Elsewhere, the neutrality of khaki is alleviated with a poppy mandarin-orange top. Layering not only emphasized color, but in the case of a printed skirt paired with a striped sweater and a knit bra top, it revealed a welcome sense of playfulness. The world needs reasons to smile.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
September 9, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/631b1b9a563d9de75791aad9/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-tanya-taylor-spring-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Teatum Jones
|
spring-2017-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/teatum-jones
|
In both its laws and social attitude, Scotland is ranked as one of Europe’s most protective and tolerant nations for lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender, and intersex citizens. Before their show today, Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones presented a stirring short film in which some of these citizens discussed how that atmosphere of tolerance allowed them to freely flower. One young man said he relishes the license to not “let anybody tell who you should be and what you should look like.” Another spoke of embracing “the idea that we are all the same and we are all different and that that is not contradictory.” Add in an Annie Lennox-accented mix ofTrainspotting-era techno, house, and garage, and it all made for an inspiring atmosphere.The designers ofTeatum Jonesaren’t Scottish. In fact, they hail from the nation for which Scots, historically and quite possibly justifiably, sometimes display minimal tolerance: England. The Sassenach winners of the 2015/2016 Womenswear International Woolmark Prize proceeded to put out a colorful and attractive collection which played a botanical print inspired by Charles Rennie Mackintosh paintings against a graphic inspired by club night strafes of laser. A Mondrian-hued, Basquiat-touched pattern came hand-painted by artist Tom Leamon on backpacks, shorts, jackets, and skirts in the last movement of the show. Deep-V backed, lace-fringed silk slip dresses sometimes worn above softly tapered pants were paired against staid, Carolina Herrera-esque cinched white shirting. Leather-paneled bodice dresses counterpointed against punchy floral fil coupes.Winning the Woolmark enabled the designers to insert their first-ever menswear looks into this collection: The resulting floral fishtail parkas and stitch-paneled varsity bombers that looked to have a canvassed shoulder signaled a winning addition to the London’s menswear cacophony. Lots to like here.
|
Luke Leitch
|
September 23, 2016
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/57e522e0328360864f79bea6/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-teatum-jones-spring-2017-rtw.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2017
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Temperley London
|
spring-2025-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/temperley-london
|
At a time when many independent designers in London are struggling, Alice Temperley offers a glimmer of hope. The brand, best known for its heavily embellished evening dresses, is opening a new store in Kensington in October, while also expanding its ready-to-wear offering, the White Label, as it begins wholesaling again. “During Covid, we were more evening wear and bridal focused. Now we’re growing,” Temperley explained, noting that both the US market and younger customers are key priorities. “That’s why it’s important to do ready-to-wear, because not everybody goes around wearing evening wear.”The White Label is an expansion of the Temperley world, with the Somerset-based designer being the archetypal customer. “I live in knitted suits, so we’re doing more [of those],” said Temperley, pointing to her houndstooth two-piece. This season, there’s a monogrammed version, emblazoned with the designer’s T logo, and another in black and white. Taking inspiration from a trip to Barcelona, there are lighter pieces featuring floral cut-out detailing, referencing the relief work at the Sagrada Familia, which are likely to have broad appeal.The Spanish influence continued into the evening wear, via the ruffled Flamenco sleeves, and intricate embroidery and beadwork that referenced the tiles at Park Güell. As ever, Temperley is keen to emphasize the craftsmanship that goes into creating her designs, launching digital product passports—a QR code on the tag that you scan—that allow customers to find out more about how each piece was made, and its carbon footprint.After nearly 25 years in business, Temperley prides herself on the fact that she’s not swayed by the trend cycle, staying true to her brand’s DNA and what her loyal clientele wants. “It’s about embracing what we know, what we love, and what we do, and sticking to it—not trying to be something else,” she reflected.
|
Emily Chan
|
September 13, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/66e07f4e12ac0f23f9ae6ecc/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-temperley-london-spring-2025-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2025
|
ready-to-wear
|
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|
Temperley London
|
fall-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-ready-to-wear/temperley-london
|
It is an anecdotal truth that even the most metropolitan of Brits—among them Kate Moss and Charlotte Tilbury and the model Jade Parfitt—reach a point in their lives when the glamour of the West Country becomes irresistible: the darlings, the dachshunds, the image of disco balls strewn across Grade II–listed estates. You get the impression that Alice Temperley has spent the past 20 years designing clothes for the precise moment these revelations take place. “Well, this has been my life!” the designer said, combing the rails at her fall 2024 presentation at Claridge’s hotel. “I’ve always found escapism in dressing up, and things have become pretty gloomy recently, so I think people have realized that life is just too short. Have as much as you can.”The designer’s fall collection was a lesson in high bohemia, schooled in all the decadence that sprung from the 1920s when the Bright Young Things—an uninhibited class of well-to-do socialites including Cecil Beaton and Nancy Mitford—transformed London and their respective country piles into playgrounds of bacchanalia. Consider them a sort of proto-Saltburn.“I’m also known for behaving badly and I don’t care. I like being frivolous and free and not giving a fuck about having to conform,” Temperley said. The flamboyance of that bright young lifestyle was semaphored in silk robes, metallic-printed velvet dresses, leopard-print suits and long-line tuxedo jackets worn over bias-cut slips. “I’m not a minimal person and I like to be around fun people—otherwise, I’d be bored stiff.”The designer continued: “I can’t bear the thought of being considered prim and buttoned-up. And so this collection is a coming out and a celebration of optimism.” The monarch butterfly—which is known to be a symbol of hope and rebirth—was chosen as a recurring motif for this exact reason. Its flaxen wings appeared in dégradé embellishments on bell-sleeve dresses and in photomontage prints on lady-of-the-manor gowns. But it also spoke to the brand’s journey into the spotlight: Temperley will be showing a full ready-to-wear collection in Paris this June. These were clothes about breaking from convention and the transformative thrill of pleasure-seeking. The designer named the collection “Metamorphosis.”
|
Daniel Rodgers
|
February 16, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/65ca0ff4584f82418f54c849/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-temperley-london-fall-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Temperley London
|
spring-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/temperley-london
|
Alice Temperley frequently draws inspiration from a multitude of off-beat sources, while staying true to her distinctive blend of the bohemian and romantic. Although her new collection mood board is eclectic, she finds herself drawn to the rich heritage craftsmanship of her beloved West Country. For spring, her inspirations include Sally Potter’s 1992 adaptation of Virginia Woolf’sOrlando, featuring Tilda Swinton, and the Grand Duke of Tuscany, Cosimo III de’ Medici, who had a deep connection to the exquisite lace crafted in Somerset during the 16th century.During a preview, Temperley shared that the business is growing, saying, “we have more stores opening in the Middle East and a new flagship in London.” The collection is divided into three drops, a strategic choice to provide products with ample space and avoid overwhelming customers.In the first drop, stretch silk and button-up linen dresses feature hand-painted Tudor roses, sequin-adorned calligraphy, and Fresco designs with pearls, orchids, and ornate borders. The brand’s embroidered tattoo motifs are reimagined as sensuous sheer dresses and kimono-style house coats in a fresh twist. Elsewhere, there are leather jackets with Victoriana details decorated with braided leather and pearl accents, as well as sharply cut mannish velvet suits. “We’ve had a lot of men buying into our women’s tailoring, which has been incredible to see,” she remarked.In the second drop, there are lightweight printed slip dresses accompanied by matching head ties in shades of pink and lilac. Essential additions to the summer wardrobe come in the form of cotton voile frocks in ivory, azure, and rose hues. The third drop features a selection of simpler hot-weather styles, including exquisite English lace separates. The standout was a white single-breasted suit crafted from Aberdeen crepe, featuring a striking satin lapel.While remaining loyal to the brand’s essence, Temperley has taken further steps to celebrate the craftsmanship of the United Kingdom. This season, the collection is showcased in a film shot at the world’s oldest tulle factory, Swisstulle, conveniently located five minutes away from the brand’s Somerset atelier.
|
Alex Kessler
|
September 15, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/65043528905aa5d2de072182/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-temperley-london-spring-2024-RTW-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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|
Temperley London
|
fall-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/temperley-london
|
Alice Temperley was in cheerful spirits during a preview at Somerset House, where she was to host an event for the launch of her interiors collaboration. While the space was decorated to a suitably Temperley standard—think textured leopard print wallpaper and loveseats, floor-to-ceiling floral curtains at the step-and-repeat—the designer also brought along rails of her latest collection. “I wanted to have a select few people see the clothes up-close—it’s important for them to be able to touch everything,” she said.The English designer, who has long been committed to her West Country-inspired bohemian sensibilities, drew inspiration for her fall collection from female surrealist artists Kati Horna, Leonora Carrington, and Remedios Varo, along with motifs from Mexico City and Frida Kahlo’s Casa Azul. This season, textures are a key component of the garments, and Temperley delivered with a multitude of silhouettes: There are wool coats and crepe-back satin kimonos adorned with exquisite hand-braiding and pearlescent accents, as well as sheer-paneled mini and midi dresses embellished with sequins, florals, and trompe l’oeil lace. Her references were also reflected in the colors, which included vivid cerulean, scarlet, and azalea.With single-breasted velvet sets in black and mossy green that were cut to near perfection, the tailoring felt particularly elevated. As for evening wear? There were a couple of highlight moments, including a featherlight, crystal-encrusted lilac dress trimmed with silver tassels, and a bridal look, which included an ivory hand-embroidered floor-length gown with a matching white faux fur coat that emanated Old Hollywood glamour. Of course, Temperley threw on the coat as we discussed it. “If I see it, I have to wear it,” she exclaimed. Her loyal customers are bound to react similarly.
|
Alex Kessler
|
March 13, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/64105d88afbcc0fad39aea61/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-temperley-london-fall-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Temperley London
|
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/temperley-london
|
Alice Temperley decided to divide her collection into two parts: a spring and a summer collection. “We believed that since they were two distinct narratives, they should be shown separately. Additionally, it makes sense from the standpoint of a buyer,” she said as she combed through rails in the basement of a lavish town house in West London.For spring, Temperley wanted to celebrate spontaneous, maximalist dressing. She brought together an array of evening-appropriate separates, from backless floor-length gowns with capelet sleeves adorned with mirror-ball sequins to a vibrant crimson suit with a long tuxedo jacket and wide-leg pants. “We wanted it to feel elevated and polished but still fun for a night out,” she said.Summer, on the other hand, took inspiration from classic notions of the seaside. With her atelier based in Somerset, a country escape awash with picturesque beaches, the designer felt compelled to create pieces fit for a glamorous day at the beach. The tulle- and chiffon-paneled dresses with delicate floral embroidery and matching long jackets stood out, as did the cowrie-shell-pattern dress, a new print applied across the brand’s best-selling styles. The lightweight knit twinsets, featuring trompe l’oeil pocket details, were a welcome addition to the lineup and an area that the designer should expand on in future collections.
|
Alex Kessler
|
September 16, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/63230d02e15ee95258860873/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-temperley-london-spring-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Temperley London
|
fall-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/temperley-london
|
“It’s the Wild West by way of Somerset as the new frontier,” said Alice Temperley of her collection’s mood for fall. “With everything opening up again, we needed more flavor and color, as well as something that’s quite exotic.” The designer—who relocated from the city to the English countryside before the onset of the pandemic—produced the line in its entirety for the first time in her new atelier. The clothes are perfect for going out in: Be it daytime frolics in the fields or a cocktail soirée at dusk, there’s something suitably chic for every occasion.With an uplifting palette that spans suits, ponchos, blanket knits, and prairie dresses, the collection brings together a myriad of references that nod to a Western theme. The brand’s signature floor-length silk gowns are adorned with prints featuring cacti, flowers, and key motifs (a clever repeated pinball detail on the sleeve of one dress is particularly delightful). Tailoring is also a key factor, with razor-sharp separates made from wool crepes and thick sateens in pastel. A standout piece—which happens to be Temperley’s favorite—is a hard leather biker with a silver studded high neck and intricate piping details on the back. “Last year our leather items were some of our best performers, so we wanted to uplift that section more,” said the designer.This collection marks 22 years for the label—something Temperley has commemorated by getting the number tattooed on her wrist. “It’s strange to think of how long it has been, but I’m absolutely thrilled about it all,” she said, beaming with enthusiasm.
|
Alex Kessler
|
February 20, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/62120dc1239123e3106301d3/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Temperley-Fall-22-RTW-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2022
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Temperley London
|
spring-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-ready-to-wear/temperley-london
|
Since moving her atelier to the picturesque English countryside in Somerset more than a year ago, Alice Temperley has seemingly adopted a cool, laid-back air. As she enthusiastically rifles through the racks in her central London showroom, it’s evident that the mood is reflected in her collection, too. “It’s inspired by Agatha Christie, but through a 1970s lens,” said the designer. “She had this quirky independence about her.”Signature pieces include floor-length dresses printed with a cross-pollination ofDeath on the Nilecollages and cross-stitch motifs; breezy, off-the-shoulder summer frocks in refreshing baby blues and lemons; or a single-breasted crepe suit adorned with palm trees. But it’s the denim separates, as well as the tailored, almost androgynous suits in Italian woven check, that truly stand out and feel utterly modern—a development that feels right for her customer’s wardrobe. Temperley agrees: “People tend to think of the brand as purely very feminine, but I’m enjoying exploring new ways of expressing femininity with these pieces,” she says.Since the brand has officially reduced its output to two collections a year, attention to detail and craftsmanship has become more of a focus. Not only is the Temperley team working more closely with local artisans, they also plan on broadcasting weekly videos on their Instagram account of these individuals in action, allowing them to share their stories beyond the clothes. Temperley beams as she talks about the plan: She’s clearly enjoying this new direction.
|
Alex Kessler
|
September 17, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/61447f4d4112027f4a97b44f/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Temperley-SS22-RTW-London-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2022
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Temperley London
|
fall-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/temperley-london
|
Having decamped from the city in the name of her label to Ilminster in Somerset, England, last year, Alice Temperley seemed in this collection to be riffing on the perennial boho vibe encapsulated by Glastonbury just down the road. It contained punchy renditions of the floaty dresses in trippy patterns and animalia that are reliable Temperley standards, along with updated arrangements of her signature tailoring in fresh shades of velvet, leather, and fine-wale cotton corduroy. Plus jumpsuits, obviously.While her change of location has not altered her sensibility, it has affected her emphasis and led to new material. Of a recently developed range of outerwear, she said: “They’re really...practical,I guess. Yeah,practicalis a good word.” An expanded range of double denim offerings and some sustainable cotton jersey logo hoodies (one of which had already been pinched by her teenage son) were further inherently practical pieces.Furthermore, since returning to Somerset, Temperley has rapidly established partnerships with local factories (including one that manufactures the outerwear), leatherworkers, tanneries, and other nearby suppliers to develop a resilient, environmentally sustainable and localized production network, which is extremely practical while adding depth to the label. Meanwhile, her warehouse in Italy will act as the conduit to customers for much of the pieces manufactured offshore, a small post-Brexit mercy.As Temperley pointed out, when times are as complicated as they have become, further unnecessary complication becomes highly undesirable. Scattered with pieces to dance in when the summer comes, but with plenty that was practical too, this was a collection with proper Somerset soul. Roll on Glastonbury ’22.
|
Luke Leitch
|
February 19, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6021216df6327837c478c3a3/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Temperley-London-Fall-21.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2021
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Temperley London
|
spring-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2021-ready-to-wear/temperley-london
|
Sporting a bolero hat, a trademark swooshy boho dress, and an air of sphinxish serenity, Alice Temperley rattled through a typically Temperl-esque collection this afternoon. In this most turbulent of seasons quite what mystery lurked behind her utterly unperturbed mien— especially given the added distraction of a Harry Potterishly-uniformed schoolboy who was busy pocketing the pricey complimentary chocolates in her Mayfair presentation space—remained unsolved: This was a designer nursing a revelation she was not yet ready to reveal.Unambiguous, though, was this pleasingly 1960s-themed collection with its trapeze shapes shot in a dynamic and Quant-ishly evocative manner, then spiked with a powerful dose of that aforementioned swoosh via a Talitha Getty-ish jet-set throwback vibe. Consistently-selling tattoo dresses and raffish Somerset hunt tailoring were both present and correct. A leather whose tone was termed ‘midnight’ made for compelling shorts, and the saucy Cider With Rosie indigo denim dungarees were further happily-harvestable highlights. Embroidered florals, rainbow-hued sequins, crystals, and dappled strafes of dripped-on multicolor blobs of resin contributed to the kaleidoscope of ornament on Temperley’s classic silhouettes.Considering the school-tied candy-stealer with unflappable equanimity, the designer did at last concede that she is sitting on big news, “but it’s too early to say.” Oh well. In the meantime, this collection telegraphed that rarest of sightings in fashion right now: a designer who seems sure of her path.
|
Luke Leitch
|
September 18, 2020
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5f63f41962881423fcf97460/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Temperley-London-Spring-21-RTW.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2021
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Temperley London
|
fall-2020-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-ready-to-wear/temperley-london
|
Alice Temperley threw an ace party in her Bruton Street store last night that featured sinuous dancers wearing a strong collection, all washed down by even stronger cocktails. Said Temperley: “It’s just about bringing some sort of fun into an industry that’s in a state of confusion at the moment and enjoying something intimate and relaxed.” Several hundred guests thronged the floors of this beautiful Georgian town house, gabbing and gawping at her models doing their thing to swing, tango, and jive. Fittingly for a collection loosely dedicated to dance, Temperley displayed some fresh steps of her own via the delivery of her first-ever range of handbags, a selection of six or so shapes in three different sizes, each design named after a family member.The collection featured many richly patterned flou floaters for modern flappers, some fine tailoring and a great wrap dress in black leather, a cute dance-step-print T-shirt, and more tailoring in velvet of which a wide-collared cinch-waisted quilted coat in black was the standout piece. There were also some velvet shorts of which Temperley observed: “I love wearing them in the winter, with boots.”
|
Luke Leitch
|
February 15, 2020
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e46f0d54f73cb00085570c9/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Temperley-London-RTW-Fall-2020.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2020
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Teresa Helbig
|
madrid-spring-2020
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/madrid-spring-2020/teresa-helbig
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5d24b199e7d8b5000838ebb7/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Teresa-Helbig-Madrid-SS20-credit-Pablo-Pablo-Latorre-LEstrop.JPG"
] |
madrid
|
spring
|
2020
|
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] |
||
Teresa Helbig
|
madrid-fall-2019
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/madrid-fall-2019/teresa-helbig
| null | null |
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5c5192be62fddc2d0b07a3cf/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-teresa-helbig-madrid-fall-19-creditMBFWMADRID-Francesc-Ten.jpg"
] |
madrid
|
fall
|
2019
|
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] |
||
Tess Giberson
|
spring-2016-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/tess-giberson
|
At her presentation this afternoon,Tess Gibersonadmitted that her latest collection was really just an extension of the one she’d designed for Resort. No complaints there—Giberson’s Resort collection was a rich yet concise interpretation of her experience visiting Walter Gropius's house in Massachusetts, and given that she had more to say about Gropius’s home, it was nice to find her revisiting the theme.As Giberson put it, her focus this time was on ”moments” within the house, rather than its overarching aesthetic impact. With that in mind, she dilated on details such as the lacing on chairs or the fringes of a pillow, and expanded them into recurring motifs. The fringe came off particularly well—clean and un-hippieish—while the lacing, used widely, made for some of the sexiest looks Giberson has ever produced, notably the double-slit skirt with a front panel of upholstery-like jacquard.Another winning extrapolation from chez Gropius was the deep blue watercolor striped silk, taken from a duvet, which Giberson made into a fantastic pieced-together slip dress. It looked like just the thing to wear on a hot and humid summer day—a day, you might say, a lot like this one. Pieces in bone-white mesh were just as suited to swampy weather, while micro-pleated trousers, detailed with a canny ankle slit, or ribbed knit dresses with architectural cabling about the neckline, had a more trans-seasonal durability. As a whole, this collection continued the roll that Giberson has been on—if she needs to continue making pilgrimages to the homes of great architects to keep it going, so be it.
|
Maya Singer
|
September 10, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55f1ec1e822e0025344c3cfa/master/w_1280,c_limit/tess-giberson-rtw-spring-2016-001.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2016
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Tess Giberson
|
resort-2016
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2016/tess-giberson
|
Three cheers for Tess Giberson! The designer's latest collection was notable for both its concision and its appeal. There was quite a bit going on, but Giberson managed to boil her ideas down to their essence, with nary an extraneous gesture. Her discipline seems to have come straight from her source material: Earlier this year, she visited Walter Gropius' house in Massachusetts, a paragon of minimalist architecture—all glass, white walls, and chrome. Gropius' influence surely accounted for the clean lines here and the emphasis on neutrals. But it also echoed in the textural richness of the collection. As Giberson explained, she found the interior of the Gropius house warm and sensuous and full of artisanal detail. With that in mind, she reached into her knitwear toolkit and emerged with cotton macramé shot through with metallic thread, as well as plush cashmere and mash-ups of mesh and drop-stitch.Giberson's expertise was on full display, but she deployed it with a light hand. The non-knit pieces, meanwhile, included some of this small collection's standouts—sharp front-slit leather A-line skirts, a sexy deep-V jumpsuit in crepe. The real showpiece, though, was a high-drama silk dress in red, slashed up the sides and embellished with pleats. All these cut-and-sew items boasted a strong sense of geometry—Gropius' influence again—but they didn't come off as severe. Rather, they were fully considered wardrobe go-tos that women will find a pleasure to wear.
|
Maya Singer
|
June 4, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650b808298d8be214fac3/master/w_1280,c_limit/tess-giberson-001-1366.jpg"
] |
resort
|
2016
|
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] |
||
Tess Giberson
|
fall-2015-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/tess-giberson
|
There may be no sight more mundanely depressing than gray, New York garbage snow. Great lumps of the stuff were piled up outside Tess Giberson's shop in Nolita, where the designer presented her new collection today. It made it hard to resist giving Giberson a touch of the old gimlet eye as she explained that said collection had been inspired by the beauty of frozen landscapes.Not this landscape!one thought. And indeed, Giberson had the Arctic in mind, drawing on the tundra's variegated textures for a lineup of truly sumptuous tactility. The feral fringe and the curly shearlings were the first things that caught the eye, and then the ice-like pleated silks and graphic black-and-white knits in patterns inspired by Inuit motifs. Bouclé, jacquard, ultra-fine ribbed knits, gossamer crochet—nearly everything here wanted desperately to be touched. Giberson layered her varied textures against each other in a convincing way. Her attenuated silhouettes were convincing, too, especially the sharp flared trousers and long quilted parkas, the latter of which seemed like exactly the thing to get a style-minded girl through New York fashion week, which is forecast to befreezing.Alas, those coats won't be on sale for quite a while, so…good luck, everyone.
|
Maya Singer
|
February 11, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c651d508298d8be228e4b8/master/w_1280,c_limit/Tess_Giberson_01_1366.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2015
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Tess Giberson
|
spring-2015-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/tess-giberson
|
When last we encountered Tess Giberson, at an appointment for Resort, she was talking about a book she'd stumbled on, a survey of Palm Springs pools. This season, Giberson was referring to the book again—except this time she'd raised her gaze from those pools and taken in the larger "water environments" that denizens of Palm Springs had built in their backyards in the desert. The most evocative looks here conjured the mottled tone and texture of the desert and its ceiling of pale blue, endless sky—to wit, a beige crocheted singlet studded with beads, a nubby striped linen trench, and all the good-looking, very wearable pieces in sky blue stretch cotton. All that was juxtaposed with a riff on synthetics, like the pleated skirt of silver foil. Some of the organic vs. synthetic interplay was hidden in the clothes: A graphic black-and-white jacquard pattern was echoed in pieces woven from technical yarns. Elsewhere, Giberson made the point straightforwardly, as in a half-crochet, half-metallic dress.On the whole, the collection had a lot of appeal, though for every standout look, like an indigo jumpsuit or a breezy gown of pleats, there was one that felt somewhat out of sync, such as a leather cropped tank/track pant duo. There was also a certain repetitiveness to Giberson's sheer theme, although those pieces at least helped tell her story. After all, if you were hanging out in a simulated water environment in the Palm Springs desert, wouldn't you want to wear something as close to nothing as you could?
|
Maya Singer
|
September 5, 2014
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c651be08298d8be2272b30/master/w_1280,c_limit/_LKV6685.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2015
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Tess Giberson
|
resort-2015
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2015/tess-giberson
|
Like a lot of people, Tess Giberson spent much of the interminable winter that just passed fantasizing about swimming pools. Those daydreams were the jumping-off point for her new collection, and in lots of ways, the inspiration was apt. Resort is all about daydreams of warm, sunny places and water lapping about, throwing off light. Giberson's translation of that emphasized slouchy, open-weave sweaters; sport-inspired pieces like jogging shorts; and optical, black-and-white knits and jacquards that riffed on the tile work commonly found at swimming pools. She also made nice use of mosaic-patterned crochet and a watercolor print of a palm tree that was painted by her husband. A few pieces here seemed out of place, like the stretch leather leggings in white, paneled in matching calf hair, but overall the collection struck the right breezy tone. A white denim suit, comprised of a jacket narrow about the shoulder and trousers with a barely-there flare, looked particular sharp. And a slipdress in aqua blue had a terrific, shrugged-on, diaphanous sexiness. These clothes were smart and appealing—if not as seductive as the notion of sunning by the side of a pool and then diving in. But then, what is?
|
Maya Singer
|
June 1, 2014
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6514008298d8be21e26b0/master/w_1280,c_limit/Tess_Giberson_001_1366.1366x2048.JPG"
] |
resort
|
2015
|
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] |
||
Tess Giberson
|
fall-2014-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2014-ready-to-wear/tess-giberson
|
How do you dramatize the mundane? There's a case to be made that this is the central question of all creative endeavor—that any work of art is, at the most essential level, one person's attempt to see some common part of life afresh and give it new resonance. Tess Giberson's reference this season—the sportswear familiar to her from her rural New England childhood—was mundane, indeed. But the intriguing thing here was that Giberson really invested in that mundaneness, and honored it. There was drama on the runway, but there was a sense of humility, too. It made for an interesting tone. Giberson struck most forcefully with her excellent puffers and long, billowing shirtdresses in faded farmer check. The puffer gilets with daggered hems and a hand-knit back were the hands-down standout of this show; elsewhere, Giberson scored with her typically great hand-knits—the long shawl collar cardigans in particular—and her elongated shirting. A tunic-length button-down with a subtle stripe, worn over narrow trousers—it was a simple enough proposition, one you could even call mundane. But it had its own dramatic force.
|
Maya Singer
|
February 6, 2014
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6513308298d8be21d50b0/master/w_1280,c_limit/_LKV5691.1366x2048.JPG"
] |
fall
|
2014
|
ready-to-wear
|
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]
] |
|
Tess Giberson
|
spring-2014-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2014-ready-to-wear/tess-giberson
|
Madras. Tennis dresses. Sailor stripes and kelly green.The Official Preppy Handbookmight seem like odd reference material for Tess Giberson, but that very unexpectedness may have been the point, as the designer took on the aesthetic codes and conventions of our nation's WASP elite this season. Giberson's collection had a lot of snap: For the most part, she didn't seem to be overthinking her clothes, and you didn't need to know the conceptual background of, say, a mint silk trouser jumpsuit to comprehend the garment's appeal. Ditto the clever cape-shaped trenchcoats and Giberson's insouciantly sexy slipdresses and organza button-downs. As usual, the designer also did well with her knits, in particular those that featured a kind of knit-in, oversize perforation, and finer versions in an abstracted check pattern. A few garments did come off a little mannered, like the dresses and skirts with arcing hems. But as a whole this was a strong outing for Giberson, one marked by her ample intelligence, but not showing it off.
|
Maya Singer
|
September 5, 2013
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6511c08298d8be21bb8ce/master/w_1280,c_limit/001.1366x2048.JPG"
] |
spring
|
2014
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Tess Giberson
|
resort-2014
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2014/tess-giberson
|
Tess Giberson being Tess Giberson, it came as no surprise to hear her describe her Resort collection as "loosely based on the philosophy of the Bauhaus—art, craft, and technology." But despite the conceptual trappings, the clothes had plenty of unfussy appeal, like her hacked-off bombers and blazers and a great, less-is-more jumpsuit.As usual, Giberson is interested in the ways in which things are made. The season's print—from which the collection's palette was derived—is a watercolor, created by her husband, of weaving writ large. Sometimes this interest in construction can seem tricky to a fault. Her "cardigans" and dresses, for instance, don't button up the middle or the back but actually drape twice over the head, creating double necklines and effectively hanging off the wearer. But there was a simpler kind of appeal in her spidery, macramé-inspired sweater and knits with gaping cables: In effect, they say, "Someone knitted me." Giberson expressed nostalgia for the days in which that person could have been her. "I have this compulsion," she said. "I still have to touch them." To scratch the itch, she hand-embroiders a few pieces every season—here, mesh tank tops stitched with abstract webs.
|
Matthew Schneier
|
June 4, 2013
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6511608298d8be21b4bab/master/w_1280,c_limit/TessGiberson_001_1366.1366x2048.JPG"
] |
resort
|
2014
|
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] |
||
Tess Giberson
|
fall-2013-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2013-ready-to-wear/tess-giberson
|
After several seasons of doing runway shows, Tess Giberson returned to a presentation format today, the better to indulge her arty side. The atmosphere in Giberson's studio at Pier 59 was rather intense—there was a ululating soundtrack, the result of a collaboration between Giberson and the performance artist Sahra Motalebi—and at irregular intervals, a few of the musicians that Giberson had cast as models would strike wooden blocks as they stared, glassy-eyed, into the crowd. There might as well have been a sign posted on the door: "Warning: This Collection Must be Taken Seriously."Well,hmm.It feels uncharitable to accuse Giberson of pretension—she emerged in an era of downtown New York fashion when artistic aspiration wasn't so vanishingly rare as it is now, and it's nice that she wanted to resurrect that spirit. And in the meantime, her recent collections have been very, very grounded. But the issue this time out was that Giberson's collection seemed to suffer from a surfeit of what I'll call "art thinking," and a deficit of "fashion thinking." Art values process. Fashion values the end result of process, i.e., product. So from the moment Giberson decided that the theme of her collection was "Evolution," and that the clothes would be a kind of procedural showing the development and adaptation of her ideas, she committed herself to art thinking. There were a lot of nice pieces here—and a few terrific ones, like the patchwork leggings, and a split-back blazer with a tonal floral print, or the draped black wool coat with multicolored hand-knit sleeves—but the collection as a whole proved less than coherent. Which is ironic, given that Giberson's intention was to elucidate the connections between her pieces. But that's art thinking for you. Fashion thinkers, at their smartest, know when to cut the looks that got them to the places they eventually realized they were going.
|
Maya Singer
|
February 7, 2013
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c6510908298d8be21a694b/master/w_1280,c_limit/TESS_GIBERSON_001_1366.1366x2048.JPG"
] |
fall
|
2013
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Tess Giberson
|
spring-2013-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2013-ready-to-wear/tess-giberson
|
The trouble with so many designers in New York's rising class is their insistence on producing entire collections of performance pieces: Red-carpet frocks and editorial looks that will turn on the stylists in the house and clothes too stiff to sit down in, but not the kind of stuff a girl can wear day in and day out. Lucky for us, Tess Giberson doesn't have that problem.Giberson titled her Spring show "Reassembled" and devoted her energies to, she said, "the silhouette, taking it apart and putting it back together to create something new." But for all the deconstruction in the clothes, they were the kinds of things we all reach for: an easy slipdress collaged together from different weights and textures of silk, an unstructured blazer with a cutaway hem in back, a special T-shirt embroidered in front with swirls of crochet and worn with skinny pants. OK, the trailing lengths of fabric on asymmetrically wrapped dresses could prove dangerous on the subway—stand clear of those closing doors—but otherwise the show was as real-world cool as the runways get.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 6, 2012
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c650f208298d8be218d157/master/w_1280,c_limit/_ON_0004.900x1350.JPG"
] |
spring
|
2013
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
The Academy New York
|
fall-2022-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-menswear/the-academy-new-york
|
Swaim Hutson knows all the codes. His latest The Academy collection is rife with the tiny details of traditional menswear—even if it’s a collection that spans all genders. Tiny emblems, text graphics, and military pins were inspired by the JapaneseBuffalo’66book; the phrase21st century skinon the back of a blazer harks back to a tee Radiohead’s Thom Yorke sported in the ’90s. Maybe the red velvet suit worn by Sharon Van Etten during her performance at Hutson’s presentation was a nod to Tom Ford’s Gucci classic.Or maybe not. Hutson knows his references but sticks to his own silhouettes: lean, straight, and tomboyish above all else. This season he has grown his fabrications leaps and bounds, with retro jacquards and cool diversions into mustard, forest green, and Carolina blue. The guests at his New York Men’s Day show were certainly loving it, pulling pieces off hangers and trying things on—even if it diverted them from Van Etten and her band’s heavenly score. The best thing Hutson offers is an unstudied, don’t-try-too-hard kind of cool. Oh, and he hosts a mega dance party. Maybe next season he’ll break from the official schedule and try his own thing again—seeing his clothes alive is seeing them at their best.
|
Steff Yotka
|
February 12, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/62077bdd22ecda4bae5a2939/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-the-academy-new-york-Fall-22-mens-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2022
|
menswear
|
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] |
|
The Academy New York
|
spring-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-ready-to-wear/the-academy-new-york
|
One of the many challenges for the spring 2022 season is how to marry the comfort of sweatpants and the polish of suiting in a way that feels inspired and innovative. Swaim Hutson has avoided the obvious with a spangly solution for his brand The Academy New York: Lurex bodysuits in startling colors like citrus and lilac were layered under roomy blazers. Hutson cited raves, discos, and good old-fashioned parties as his references for this collection; they led him to psychedelic graphics, tuxedo ruffles, and a more optic sensibility.In Hutson’s defense, a look book could never do justice to a live experience, and so if the images that live here on Vogue Runway feel a bit frosty, know that in the cell service–free back room of Primo’s a proper party broke out. Models clutched drinks as they swayed to music, making it hard to discern who was in the show and who was just there for some good vibes. It worked for Hutson’s message of glitzy togetherness. A double-breasted blazer dress, dotted with glitter, glistened in the disco ball light.A model in a minute pinstripe skirt set fiddled with her cocktail as her friend in a three-piece suit and frilled shirt stood with the confidence of the coolest girl in the room. Personalities bring Hutson’s clothing to life, and he designs to complement the people in his clothes, not overshadow them with novelty. This season he hit the mark.
|
Steff Yotka
|
September 10, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/613c717ba29de1508f0b4718/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-The_Academy-New-York-RTW-Spring-22-Credit-Malike-Sidibe.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2022
|
ready-to-wear
|
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|
The Academy New York
|
fall-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/the-academy-new-york
|
A scroll through The Academy New York’s Instagram account tells a story about Swaim Hutson’s latest fixations. There’s Jean-Michel Basquiat in a plaid suit and Adidas tee; a youthful Fran Lebowitz rocking a wide-lapel Prince of Wales check jacket; and an anonymous young woman whose broad-shoulder blazer, sweatpants, and Bass Weejuns doubtless looked more rule-breaking when she threw them together in the early ’80s than they do now.Hutson applied that formula to his collection for fall, cutting his women’s suits with mannish straight lines and combining his classic tailoring with athleticwear. The charm of the results is testament to both the resilience of the formula—the gamine is an archetype for a reason—and the irreverence of his combinations. Hutson paired a cropped jacket with a pair of overalls, and layered a loose-fitting shirtdress between the top and bottom of a slim-line pantsuit. Other times the shirtdress was accompanied by an elongated T-shirt or oversized button-front vest. The collection’s hero piece was a jacket patchworked from current- and past-season fabrics, with the basting stitches still visible, that showed off Hutson’s tailoring chops. As for the famously irascible Lebowitz, she might quibble with the TANY logo on the back of a double-breasted coat, but she wouldn’t argue with the cut or fit.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 20, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/602fe4a6f2588b93dabf7b29/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-academy-nyc-RTW-fall-21.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2021
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
The Academy New York
|
spring-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2021-ready-to-wear/the-academy-new-york
|
Making it through the last six months has been challenging for all brands, but Swaim Hutson might’ve had it harder than most. The Academy New York is his one-man show, and fall 2020 was the first season he’d hooked up with Stella Iishi’s The News showroom to turn what had been a personal passion project into an honest-to-goodness wholesale operation. He took to Instagram last week to celebrate the fact that, despite the pandemic, he was able to produce and ship the collection to 10 stores. And they’re good stores too, like United Arrows and Beams in Japan, which supported him back in his Obedient Sons days. He was at The News this week, presenting his new spring collection, and here’s more good news: There was a live-and-in-person sales appointment taking place.Tennis, a childhood pursuit of Hutson’s, is the organizing theme behind his spring collection. One check pantsuit was overdyed a tennis ball yellow and there are riffs on on-court attire in the form of a short knit polo dress and elongated tennis skirts in a lightweight suiting wool. He’s also elaborated on his sweatsuit offering; now there are hoodies and crewnecks, pants and shorts. With COVID-19 likely to keep us in our houses and apartments well into 2021, that’s a smart thing. Leather biking shorts are another nod to the way things are now. But tailoring is Hutson’s true love and it’s The Academy’s USP. On that front the most interesting development was an oversized double-breasted jacket long enough to wear with bare legs—and a pair of his tennis bloomers.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 17, 2020
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5f63f1aadc92daef289bbb62/master/w_1280,c_limit/00000-The-Academy-New-York-SS21-RTW-Credit-Adrian-Mesko.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2021
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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|
The Academy New York
|
fall-2020-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-ready-to-wear/the-academy-new-york
|
Swaim Hutson presented his new fall collection inside The News showroom this week. That’s a step in the right direction for his fledgling operation, one that will put his smart-looking, boy-for-girl suits in front of more eyeballs—not just on the retail side, but editors, stylists, and influencers too. Hutson, whose specialty is tailoring, has re-emerged on the fashion scene at a moment when the category is fairly booming. The timing works both for and against him. It’s what stores are looking for, yes, but there’s plenty of competition.His label, The Academy New York (TANY for short), distinguishes itself with its well-chosen menswear materials and its exacting, slimmed-down cuts. Hutson’s fabrics and silhouettes lean timeless where a lot of other names out there err trendy. He rounded out his collection this season with shirting, outerwear, and some playful tweaks on wardrobe classics. In the shirt department, oversized brushed-wool camp shirts were the highlights. On the outerwear front, he experimented with a waterproof metallic tech fabric on a poncho and quilted jacket, both reversible; the former will be easier to wear than the latter. He also did an overcoat in a fun, colorful tartan. Among the tweaked classics, there was a mini kilt and a pair of riding pants in a substantial micro-floral jacquard. The kilt was spliced with that metallic tech fabric. It’s the suits where Hutson’s point of view comes into focus; still, it’s good to see him in growth mode.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 7, 2020
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5e3ca9f1dd7e170009c0c1ec/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-The-Academy-New-York-RTW-Fall-2020-credit-Adrian-Mesko.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2020
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
The Academy New York
|
spring-2020-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/the-academy-new-york
|
The Academy New York isn’t your typical Instagram brand. There’s not an influencer to be seen in Swaim Hutson’s stream and no photos of the clothes he’s started designing under the Academy label. Instead, Hutson posts vintage pics of Jack Nicholson and Maria Schneider, quotes from Rick Rubin and Samuel Beckett, and evocative movie clips. “It’s just A feeling,” it states in the bio, but it’s a feeling that a lot of people can relate to. Hutson has nearly 400,000 followers.Should he decide to start promoting the neatly tailored boyish suits he makes, he’d be bound to sell them. Hutson’s excellent taste in ’70s-era stars carries over into his tailoring. Each piece of a three-piece lightweight wool-cotton-linen blend Glen plaid suit was subtly dyed a different color, a creative detail. Just as interesting was a tie-dye-effect hand-painted pantsuit in shades of dark green and navy. He’s got a great eye for fabrics. We also liked the look of a double-breasted suit in ultramarine that came with striking white buttons.Officially, this offering is unisex, but outside of the suits, Hutson’s propositions leaned femme. He recut his shrunken camp shirts and high-waisted trousers in new colors and introduced some new shorty pajama sets. In a city where bra tops pass for outerwear, the pj’s look street legal. Before he launched tailoring, Hutson was making merch under the Academy label. For Spring, he’s printed boxy tees on the reverse, which is indicative of his thoughtful approach to this project.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 7, 2019
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5d73f42b8242040008c863dd/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-The-Academy-Ready-To-Wear-Spring-2020.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2020
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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|
The Academy New York
|
fall-2019-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2019-ready-to-wear/the-academy-new-york
|
Designers Swaim and Christina Hutson carved a niche for themselves in the late aughts with a little collection of sharply cut pantsuits they calledObedient Sons & Daughters. Their subversively conservative tailoring resonated enough to nab the husband-wife duo a place in the CFDA/VogueFashion Fund competition alongside fashion babies like Alexander Wang and Jason Wu. But then, as now, it was hard to transition out of the start-up phase. A gray suit jacket naively embroidered with snippets of poetry circa Fall 2008 lingers in the memory for the way it mixed tradition with a wayward streak. Still, as charmed as New York was by the Hutsons, the Obedient Sons & Daughters label was short-lived.In the 10 years since Obedient’s last collection, the Hutsons parted ways personally and professionally. Swaim worked behind the scenes at a number of New York brands, and he also created a popular Instagram account posting movie stills, art, interiors, poetry, and song lyrics that he dubbedThe Academy New York. He definitely has a way with names. A side project built on a whim, The Academy became so successful so fast—gaining 12,000 to 15,000 new followers a month at one point—that Hutson trademarked it. “I had an audience, but I didn’t have anything to sell them,” he recalls. Around 2015,in the early days of fashion merch, he started producing tees and hoodies branded with the TANY logo and other graphics. He’d announce his flash sales on Instagram, go to bed, and wake up with 50 orders. It was enough to keep him busy in his off hours, and to land a couple of Japanese retailers.Now, with streetwear on the wane, Hutson is getting back into the tailoring business; he’s produced a capsule collection of pantsuits, camp shirts and pajama tops, and pleated trousers for Fall underThe Academy New Yorkname. “It was something I wanted to do this from the outset of this brand,” Hutson says. “I knew I was working back to doing this.” There’s a direct line connecting Obedient Sons & Daughters to The Academy. A 2019 white button-down scribbled with marker doodles is a descendant of that iconic embroidered 2008 suit jacket, and the general vibe is still Boy Scout-gone-just-a-little-bit-bad. Shown in monochrome, the camp shirt and pleated pants combination is an especially cool look. The modifications Hutson has made for the late 2010s include a looser suit-jacket fit and unisex sizing.“There is nothing I love more than getting my ideas out and that’s what I’ve really missed the most,” he says of this career reboot. “I definitely don’t want to just make clothes for clothes sake, there’s enough of that already. I aspire to put clothes out that others will also want to wear for the next decade, or so.” If that’s an old school concept, he plans to execute it in a modern way: on Instagram—where else?
|
Nicole Phelps
|
March 27, 2019
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5c9b995a0f6fd12e953b1688/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-The-Academy-New-York-fall-19-ready-to-wear.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2019
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
The Garment
|
pre-fall-2025
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2025/the-garment
|
Based on the evidence of the spring show and this pre-fall collection, The Garment is coming into its own. The Copenhagen-based label was founded in 2020 by industry veteran Charlotte Eskildsen, who enlisted Sophia Roe’s help at the start. The influencer left after the spring 2024 show, and the designer’s since been flying solo but in good company: Members of the Danish royal family have been spotted at some of the shows.Speaking of the spring2024 collection, the bow details from it were transferred over to the backs of tops and jackets for pre-fall, much as the flowy organza tops that opened spring’s show were abbreviated here. Suffice it to say that Eskildsen takes an evolutionary approach to design. “It’s becoming a touchpoint for me to create something that I feel will last longer,” she said on a call. “I’m not that focused on what the new thing is…. I feel it’s time to carry on [things] that you paid a lot of effort into developing.”The simplicity and definitiveness of the brand name suggest a focus on reimagined wardrobe pieces. (Eskildsen’s other B Corp–certified brand, founded in 2002, is called Designers Remix.) The focus of The Garment’s pre-fall was pairing “something really sheer and something really heavy together,” the designer said. So a semi-sheer shirt is partnered with a gray tailored suit featuring a bow detail on the breast pocket, and that suit jacket is shown later with a wisp of a chiffon skirt, while double knits are layered over a thin knit turtleneck. This collection also brings together French- and Scandi-girl styles. Eskildsen has a house in France near Fondation Maeght, which she says reminds her a bit of Denmark’s Louisiana. Taking inspiration from the colors of southern France, she’s come up with a collection that has polish and practicality.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
December 16, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/675c5046efba9ced4d9d0957/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-the-garment-pre-fall-2025-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
pre-fall
|
2025
|
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] |
||
The Garment
|
copenhagen-spring-2025
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/copenhagen-spring-2025/the-garment
|
The Garment’s Charlotte Eskildsen began this season’s design process in the medieval village of Haut-de-Cagnes, in the south of France, where she has a second home. “You get a feeling of something a little romantic there,” the designer said in a preview.That mood is evident in her collection, which possessed a certain lightness of touch. Eskildsen was inspired by vintage fabrics that she collected at local flea markets, which she translated into doily apron tops and scallop-hemmed separates. Meanwhile, the Mediterranean sea was a key inspiration for the color palette: the final look comprised a floaty blue dress, worn over trousers, that blew in the wind in the courtyard of Copenhagen’s Thorvaldsens Museum (the same style also came in white and lime green).While The Garment’s boyish minimalist staples were what first caught the eye of the Scandi fashion set, Eskildsen—whose co-founder Sophia Roe stepped down from the brand last season— leaned further into the feminine for spring 2025, not only via fluid dresses, but also the draped coats and sheer suiting. There was a levity about this collection, which would look just as good on vacation in France as on the cobbled streets of Copenhagen, that we could all use in our lives right now.
|
Emily Chan
|
August 8, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/66b3693471d8258371d3a944/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-the-garment-spring-2025-ready-to-wear-copenhagen-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
copenhagen
|
spring
|
2025
|
[
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] |
|
The Garment
|
copenhagen-fall-2024
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/copenhagen-fall-2024/the-garment
|
“Elevated” and “more adult” is how Charlotte Eskildsen described her fall Garment collection. “We did more dresses, more for parties as well,” she added. It almosthadto have all these qualities given the location: the ballroom in Moltke’s Mansion (Moltkes Palæ), with chandeliers hanging over the parquet floors and elaborate plasterwork illustrating different trades (as the Association of Craftsmen in Copenhagen acquired the site in 1930). And it so happened that HRH Princess Isabella was in the audience. The themes of the wall decorations dovetailed nicely with Esklidsen’s decision to double down on quality and make. (The designer is now flying solo, as Sophia Roe, who was previously in charge of visuals, has decided to concentrate on other projects.)The Garment has always provided a contemporary take on classics, usually with a ’90s twist. Eskildsen also has an obsession with well-cut pants. This season, the aesthetic might be described as rich with touches that are both elegant (long organza gloves that fit over coat sleeves) and fun (chunky knits in fire-engine red and extra-pointy collars). A pant-less look nodded to the trend set by Miu Miu, and a biker jacket paired with a short bubble hem skirt touched lightly and nicely on the ’80s theme that’s been popping up. But the main focus here, said Eskildsen, was “to dare a little more.” All in all, that translated into upping the volume on a quiet luxury look.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
January 31, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/65ba4ddd9621d7e0baadb2b5/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-the-garment-fall-2024-ready-to-wear-copenhagen-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
copenhagen
|
fall
|
2024
|
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] |
|
The Garment
|
copenhagen-spring-2024
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/copenhagen-spring-2024/the-garment
|
The Garment’s Charlotte Eskildsen and Sophia Roe presented their spring 2024 collection in a room in Thorvaldsen’s Museum featuring larger-than-life, and mostly male, sculptures, which made an interesting contrast with the pretty, delicate youthfulness of the offering. In an online exchange, Roe explained the concept was to rethink outdated ideas about the working woman and man; the linen closet was the starting point for the former. The opening look was a “napkin” top, the closing one made of “sheets.” There was also a “pillowcase dress” and a crocheted crop top and bra that might have been inspired by doilies. And there were bows on the back of flats, and heavy knit ones attached to lighter cotton dresses.The flip “masculine” side of all this was meant to be respresnted by “utility” details, but just read as tomboy, a recurring vibe at the brand. Low waisted, raw-edged black pants with a bow at the center back bridged the two “sides.”It might have been preferable not to have Skall Studio and The Garment back-to-back on the schedule, as they covered some similar ground, and this collection wound up feeling a bit lightweight.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
August 9, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/64d383a4321e5a10a0c8d0ee/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-the-garment-spring-2024-ready-to-wear-copenhagen-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
copenhagen
|
spring
|
2024
|
[
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] |
|
The Garment
|
copenhagen-fall-2023
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/copenhagen-fall-2023/the-garment
|
“Frozen orchid, lots of layering, skirt over pants, effortless elegance. Scandinavian Heritage. Oh, and ’90s—but always ’90s,” is how Sophia Roe summarized The Garment’s fall collection. Translation: strength and fragility (tailoring and transparency) in cold climes.The identity of the brand founded by Roe and Charlotte Eskildsen in 2020 is starting to gel, but the relationship, between dressy and preppy(ish) has yet to be achieved, as was demonstrated by the progression from the tomboy-ish black jacket, sweater, shirt, and gray pants that opened the show to the satiny buttercream yellow suit worn over a ruffled bra that followed it. This dance of opposites continued throughout the collection, with cozy looks contrasting with sheer ones, or a mix of the two in one outfit, like a pinstripe vest worn with a semi-transparent pink slit skirt that carried the faint scent of ’90s Prada. The abstract pattern on a burn-out dress brought Martine Sitbon to mind.Adding newness to the offering were elements of deconstruction. The inner lining was deliberately revealed on a well-cut pair of trousers, and a smart straight skirt had rear pockets at the front. On the dressier side, a halter-neck minidress with a cream rosette was a lovely iteration on the LBD.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
February 1, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/63da703037a0e77e506b1d9e/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-the-garment-fall-2023-copenhagen-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
copenhagen
|
fall
|
2023
|
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] |
|
The Garment
|
copenhagen-spring-2023
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/copenhagen-spring-2023/the-garment
|
The Garment cofounders Sophia Roe and Charlotte Eskildsen departed from the story line they’ve been developing over the past few seasons—sort of sexy prep with a tomboy edge—with a spring 2023 collection that was both conventionally dressy and resort ready. The opening look was a fringed crochet bra top with a matching skirt. More dressed up, but not innovative, were a series of evening looks, dresses and two-pieces, with keyhole details, which perhaps can be explained by the fact that Roe was in Los Angeles when the collection was being developed. But really it’s the 1990s that continue to inspire the team, hence the predominance of knit slip dresses.In expanding their offering, Roe and Eskildsen diluted their message. Part of the allure of this brand is leveraging the influencers’ much admired personal style, meaning the breadth of the collection isn’t the draw, rather it’s how authentic it feels to the Scandi style they embody. “I like the combination of something feeling elevated and feminine with a casual masculine silhouette,” Roe said in a message. “It’s the way women dress here too, you will always find a Scandi woman trying to find the perfect harmony between those two.” Exemplifying that point were the designers’ own looks, when they came out for a bow; Eskildsen put a boyfriend blazer over something mini; Roe a trad silk blouse with black jeans and high-top sneakers.There were looks in the collection that made achieving a similar effect seem doable, like the pairing of generously cut pants (the way Katharine Hepburn preferred them) and a fringed bra. Worn with a low-waisted pin-striped straight skirt, that blouse Roe styled with denim looked subversively ironic, and updated the kind ofWorking Girlsexy secretary theme in a surprising and appealing way.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
August 9, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/62f24d05b97379db640f0639/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-the-garment-copenhagen-spring-2023-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
copenhagen
|
spring
|
2023
|
[
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] |
|
The Garment
|
copenhagen-fall-2022
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/copenhagen-fall-2022/the-garment
|
The concept of Nordic chic has expanded beyond tonal minimalism to include color and print of late. It’s not like those elements were new to the region’s style, but they’ve come into focus with the success of brands like Ganni and Rave Review. Copenhagen street style has also contributed to the trend, as have a new generation of designers who, having grown up with clean-lined clothes, want to make their own way and do something different.“I think the fashion industry here went kind of mad,” said Charlotte Eskildsen, the seasoned designer behind Designers Remix, who two years ago teamed up with influencer Sophia Roe to create The Garment, a label with a more traditional take on Scandi style, which now looks new again. The pair, who have focused on tomboy tailoring and knitwear in earlier collections, reworked those preoccupations in neo-minimal and of-the-moment ways at their first runway presentation. The consistency of palette and aesthetic is deliberate, the idea is to evolve the brand so that pieces from different seasons can work together. “Sustainable for me is also keeping your clothes,” noted Eskildsen. The Garment carbon-offsets its production and strives to work with responsible fabrics.The show opened with a bang: a black cropped tailored jacket, a white shirt cut to the midriff, a gray knit skirt with spring 2022 Miu Miu proportions, black opaque tights, and vintage shoes. There were cropped school-boy jackets in tweed, silk blouses with bold shoulders, and pin-stripe pants cut to expose a bit of the hip-bone. For the most part it was dressy and easy in equal proportions, which speaks to the mood of the moment and the desire for ease with polish.There’s a familiarity to The Garment that’s comforting; it’s not vintage but, says Eskildsen, a kind of slow fashion. “It’s made from old souls, even though we have an age difference, Sophia and I. I actually was young in the 1990 and Sophia wasn’t born yet. I remember Kate Moss, Prada, and minimalism, so I never really got over it.”The Garment’s fall collection was undeniably Prada-esque, but something else was at work here, namely the reframing of the ’90s through the double lenses of nostalgia and anemoia (a longing for a time you didn’t know) and within the framework of Scandinavian minimalism. As thought provoking as that may be, fashion’s a material world, and those hip slung trousers and cropped tweed jackets are sure to speak directly to the heart and its desires.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
February 2, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/61f9b24bc503a3c3a59958a6/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-TheGarment-Fall-22-Copenhagen-credit-brand.jpg"
] |
copenhagen
|
fall
|
2022
|
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] |
|
The Kooples
|
spring-2019-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-menswear/the-kooples
|
Alexandre Elicha said his Spring lineup for the Kooples “mixed grunge with the baroque.” What he meant by that was that there was a slightly more freewheeling, almost Italian verve mixed in with the label’s typical rock ’n’ roll aesthetic. This was evinced most with an intricate, horse-bit–patterned shirt, worn big and breezy, under a heavy bomber and over racing-stripe track pants. Lounge lizard, then, as opposed to dive-bar regular.To the point about loose shirting: Elicha mentioned that he is “working more and more on volumes. There are only two sizes of, say, a jacket, so you chose what works for you.” An outsize series of denim coats—one with great, exaggerated shredded detailing around its hem—and bowling jackets stood out. In fact, some of the jackets had metal clips on the collars, which were actually the tops of lighters. They were attached for a glint of subversion.The Kooples’s music-savvy consumer won’t be left wanting: Elicha obtained the rights to use iconic images from the band the Sex Pistols, including their pseudo-ransom-note font, on tees, hoodies, and more.
|
Nick Remsen
|
June 20, 2018
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5b2aa219f90cc35fe4d59cac/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-the-kooples-vogue-menswear-SS19-pr.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2019
|
menswear
|
[
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] |
|
The Kooples
|
fall-2018-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-menswear/the-kooples
|
Pulling from the visual richness and conscious bad taste of horror and gore movies ranging from the 1930s to the 1980s, Alexandre Elicha’s Fall collection for The Kooples had reels of splashy graphic kick. T-shirts were emblazoned with the crudely appealing graphics of old movie posters, and a sweater with a distressed collar had the wordnightmareknitted onto its front; the designer cited films likeNosferatuandA Nightmare on Elm Streetas inspirations.Beyond that quick-sell merchandise, the fashion story at The Kooples this season was one of an opened-up, oversize top, worn over still-skinny pants. There were elements of distressing, too, including on tartan sweaters. Tartan played a big role; the collection’s best piece was an XL bomber in faux fur but lined with the plaid. Other examples of outerwear, like aviator jackets and topcoats, had built-in volume. It was refreshing to see the brand step into a softer key, in a way (despite those slasher tees).Elicha’s edit—always sharp—was amped up by lightweight basketball-inspired sneakers and loads of punk jewelry. “It’s actually very grunge, but still with modern streetwear,” he explained. When pressed as to his favorite horror character, he said with a devilish flash of the teeth: “Freddy Krueger.”
|
Nick Remsen
|
January 17, 2018
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/5a5fa37b6cdef03417e82bea/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-The-Kooples-Fall-18-Mens.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2018
|
menswear
|
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] |
|
The Kooples
|
spring-2018-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-menswear/the-kooples
|
Mid-photo shoot, The Kooples’s creative director of menswear, Alexandre Elicha, turned and said: “It’s a bad boy look with urban elegance.” And while it was hard to tell if that was true from the images flashing across the screen, what was notable and apparent was a refreshed line of thought in The Kooples’s story: a pivot away from black skinny jeans and tight tailoring into something more of-the-moment (even if that moment has been going on for a while now).Elicha’s Spring lineup was more in line with streetwear trends of late than prior seasons. There were step-hem jeans for guys (not mad about it, but clearly there’s a Vetements influence here), big plaid oversize coats, knitwear with snakes on the sleeves (not mad about it, but clearly there’s a Gucci influence here), some great Starter-type windbreakers, and button-down shirts with custom-made tattoo prints. A rock ’n’ roll bass still thrummed throughout, but this collection was less assigned to that category than it was a broadening of it—there are customers out there, lots of them, who want a big logo and a graphic hemline and all the other streetwear tropes that’ve been made popular by higher-end houses in recent years. Elicha does tend to overcomplicate his explanations, though—this time, a five-section breakdown, each inspired, in one way or another, by Jim Jarmusch’s filmography. Straightforward and intentional, in these arenas, The Kooples did well today.
|
Nick Remsen
|
June 26, 2017
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/594d45676707530ac3c61b86/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-The-Kooples-SS-18.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2018
|
menswear
|
[
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]
] |
|
The Kooples
|
fall-2017-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-menswear/the-kooples
|
The Kooples’s menswear artistic director (and cofounder) Alexandre Elicha explained today that he is working under a new set of rules for Fall 2017: a six-narrative collection, to be delivered, one story at a time, over the six months of the autumn/winter block. Smart. Steady.A sextet of musical categories and references subsequently informed his thinking. Overall, Fall’s lineup is called After the Show—Elicha’s imagining of a late-night party at a manor house, where blouse-y jackets and raw-edged denim à la the Doors might mingle with a razor-sharp velvet perfecto, courtesy of Japanese rock (or, as the designer noted, “the Yakuza”). This being the Kooples, there was a wide swath to take in—leather jackets with military bric-a-brac, houndstooth and herringbone knits and outerwear, Jimi Hendrix–esque elaborate long coats and more—but there’s one particular point to note: Elicha styled his looks predominantly with brogues. It was yet another sign of fashion’s weathervane shift away from the athletic-street to something more upscale and mixed. Yet, then again, the Kooples has, in its nine-year history, always been about blending casual insouciance with a dressier sort of bohemianism. The brand’s customers will more than likely be eager for a ticket to this after-party.
|
Nick Remsen
|
January 23, 2017
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/588622e6891c84211776322c/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-kooples-fw-2017.jpg"
] |
fall
|
2017
|
menswear
|
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] |
|
The Kooples
|
spring-2017-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-menswear/the-kooples
|
If you’re European (or indeed British), you probably don’t need to meetThe Kooplesbecause you’re already long-acquainted. Since its foundation in 2008 by three Parisian brothers Raphaël, Laurent, and Alexandre Elicha, this “haute street” label has become a pretty ubiquitous retailer this side of the Atlantic. Its portfolio of stores in France runs to the hundreds, and the empire has extended widely across this continent. Beyond its post-Dior Hedi, pre -YSL Hedi origin aesthetic, the brand became so big so fast thanks also to a concept encapsulated in its name: Collections for both genders and marketing campaigns focused on duos, often real-life couples or siblings or others. The whole ‘stealing a shirt from your boyfriend’s wardrobe’ thing—and indeed the prefix ‘boyfriend’ within as a trend signifier—can be partially ascribed to The Kooples.There is one relationship, however, that The Kooples would clearly dearly love to strengthen, its own with the US. (On the other side of the Atlantic The Kooples has just five stores, as well as its retail partners). To help it achieve that, the Elichas have this season recruited a man who is emblematic of both New York and the wider world around it: Waris Ahluwalia. As frère Alexandre accurately summated at a presentation held at Paris’s museum of man: “There is a big positivity to Waris; something very cool, something we like very much. So we started working together on this collection.”As Waris himself explained as we walked through podium-placed duos of male models—some twins, some looky-likeys, some simply complementarily affined—he has acted as cipher rather than designer. Waris said: “It’s quite an experience having a house design a season for you to wear. All I do is travel—I’m on a plane every other day—and there’s this feeling of India, Asia, and Japan, places of real traditions. They are always talking about the idea of rock ’n’ roll but asides—forget the look—what is rock ’n’ roll? The core of it? It’s a way of life. It’s sincerity, it’s fluidity, right? So I wanted to add that into the clothes. A relaxedness. We were able to open it up with that fluidity and soften.”While there were a couple of waistcoat and black jacket looks on show, what was most notable here was a broadening of The Kooples’s proposition. This eye was most drawn to the Japanese ‘workwear’ sourced indigo section of patchwork denim pieces, including one standout reversible bomber, worn with paisley and micro dotted foulard shirting. Elsewhere an interesting ice-pick sharp, shawl-collared shirting striped jacket and some silkily raffish day pajama wear exerted significant pull. This customer has never been much drawn to The Kooples proposition previously, but the addition of Waris has attractively widened its aperture.
|
Luke Leitch
|
June 25, 2016
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/576d3bb25124fe572829c694/master/w_1280,c_limit/01-the-kooples-2017.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2017
|
menswear
|
[
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]
] |
|
Theo
|
kiev-fall-2017
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/kiev-fall-2017/theo
|
Theo Dekan of the label Theo puts on a wild show, often connecting his collections to futuristic themes. This time, there was aBlade Runnertouch, with many of the blazers and jackets featuring exaggerated, squared-off shoulders. But there were retro influences, too. Suiting got the glam-rock treatment via a shimmering golden material and sinisterly pointed shoulders with a David Bowie attitude.Puffer jackets have been a trend on the runway in Kiev. The city is frigid, averaging about 15 degrees Fahrenheit a day recently, so it’s little wonder that designers have warm clothing on the brain. Dekan put his outré spin on the popular outerwear by meshing two separate puffers together so that the arms poked out above the armholes. The weird and wacky statement piece is bound to catch the eye of someone on the street style front.
|
Liana Satenstein
|
February 8, 2017
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/589902f4b9850c497688e083/master/w_1280,c_limit/KCH_8712.jpg"
] |
kiev
|
fall
|
2017
|
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]
] |
|
Theo
|
kiev-spring-2017
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/kiev-spring-2017/theo
|
Founder: Theo Dekan and Oksana DenisYear established: 2014Known for: Futuristic aesthetics, from angular hairstyles to sculpted outerwearSpring 2017 inspiration: Dekan often focuses on mathematics in his collections. This time his inspiration was rhythm and counting. The collection had aBlade Runnerfeel. An A-line dress had sharply defined shoulders along with a shiny leather corset with criss-crossing straps.
|
Liana Satenstein
|
September 6, 2016
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/57cb30fe602df97e79a1626a/master/w_1280,c_limit/Theo_02.jpg"
] |
kiev
|
spring
|
2017
|
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] |
|
Theo
|
kiev-fall-2016
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/kiev-fall-2016/theo
|
Founder: Theo DekanYear established: 2014Known for: Use of metallics in outerwearWorn by: Masha Tsukanova, Olga Yanul, Alina BaikovaFall 2016 inspired by: The value of time and working in a digital world
|
Liana Satenstein
|
February 8, 2016
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/56b6504f62d82d647ca048aa/master/w_1280,c_limit/THEO_001.jpg"
] |
kiev
|
fall
|
2016
|
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] |
|
Theo
|
kiev-spring-2016
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/kiev-spring-2016/theo
|
Spring 2016 Inspired by: Literature, art, and working as a women's hair stylist -- all of which resulted in a larger-than-life riff on the ruffle
| null |
September 8, 2015
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55edc18771e7efe8474827e5/master/w_1280,c_limit/_AG20005.jpg"
] |
kiev
|
spring
|
2016
|
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|
Theophilio
|
spring-2025-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/theophilio
|
It’s been a minute since Edvin Thompson staged a show in the city, so it was a shame that his buzzy return to New York Fashion Week today was clouded by a seriously late start time. If only one could say it took a minute—more like 76. The show started just over an hour and fifteen minutes after its allotted start time. It’s all good. Things happen. Yet it must be said that this is no way to stage a grand return—sometimes second impressions matter more than firsts.Backstage as folks waited in the lobby of the Freehand hotel—including Lil Nas X and June Ambrose—Thompson was all good vibes: “We’re late, but it’s going to be a great show for sure,” said the designer with a giggle.Thompson has been busy at work setting the foundation of his label. The designer said in a recent interview withTheBusiness of Fashionthat the label is breaking even for the first time as he aims to expand his distribution and supply chain. Lots of exciting developments somewhat hinging on the success of this show. He returned to the runway here after three seasons, but made a point to note that Theophilio didn’t go anywhere. “It feels like I never left,” he said. “People said ‘Theophilio is on hiatus,’ but I’ve been here, I was still working, still shaping my identity.”That was the theme here. Thompson titled his collection “Shaunie” after his childhood nickname, which he said he received from his mother’s side of the family. This lineup, he said, celebrated the “grander self.” Thompson can cut a flattering silhouette, and here he doubled down on the sparkle and sex appeal that made him one to watch when he broke into the scene just a couple of years ago. He offered colorful silk separates covered in clusters of tonal sequins, menswear styles with scattered peekaboo grommets, and cool graffiti printed slips and micro dresses. “I used to shy away from loud prints and bold colors when I started in fashion because I wasn’t so comfortable with my sexuality in that way,” he said, “I felt that if I was bright I would attract attention to myself, but leaning into the discomfort, into who you are, that’s growth.”Thompson’s spirit is in the right place. Tonight he had a room full of good will, of people happy to wait to see his work and support him. That kind of community is hard to come by, let alone create this early on. One would have hoped to see more evolution in his output and a little more finesse after his time in stealth mode. This was a show of Theophilio staples, some more effective than others. But as Thompson very well said, discomfort leads to growth. Perhaps next season he’ll dare to draw outside the lines.
|
José Criales-Unzueta
|
September 10, 2024
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/66e00370a0a037e6519d6665/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-theophilio-spring-2025-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2025
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Theophilio
|
spring-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/theophilio
|
“No more vanity,” declared Theophilio’s Edvin Thompson at a preview of his spring 2024 collection.Not in reference to his sultry spring lineup. Not speaking of celebrities he’s been busy outfitting in custom looks of late, including Victoria Monet, Asake, and Ice Spice. But in the way he’s been running his business. “I’ve been taking the time to make sure the foundation is strong,” Thompson said. “I want to make sure that the attention we’ve been getting builds us up for more than just that.”Theophilio enjoyed a swift rise. Thompson became a darling of the New York fashion scene quickly, winning the CFDA Emerging Designer of the Year Award in 2021, hosting a much-talked about show last September, and partnering with Amazon Luxury Stores for an exclusive capsule collection late last year. Just last week, he was one of the two designers that Naomi Campbell tapped to work with her on her PrettyLittleThing collection. All of these happenings certainly raise a designer’s profile, but do they all lead to a solid business?Yes and no. “Despite what it’s looked like, this has been an extremely hard year for us,” said Thompson, who skipped the fall 2023 season altogether. He’s back for spring and says he wants to “take this moment to drive the DTC business and make the brand less about an Instagram moment.” This season’s lineup featured his usual loose gauge knits in alluring new skin-baring cuts, plus a run of cool Y2K lurex denim separates, and his signature snakeskin embossed fabrics in tailored silhouettes cut in vibrant colorways. The designer’s draped hooded knit gowns were striking and resort-ready—made for both the red carpet and the beach—and his tailoring was sharp as ever.“We’re evolving to a sort of destination brand,” Thompson said, his head fully in the game. “So where will we go next?”
|
José Criales-Unzueta
|
September 12, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/6500a77408e0d36eba13002b/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-theophilio-spring-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-cesar-buitrago.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
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] |
|
Theophilio
|
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/theophilio
|
The energy at the Theophilio show was high this afternoon. Edvin Thompson won the CFDA American Emerging Designer of the Year Award late last year and has become one of the buzziest names in New York over the past couple of seasons. This was only his second runway show at New York Fashion Week, but with a tightly edited and focused collection loaded with budding brand signatures (and yes, thebudin budding is also a nod to the prerolled joints left on the seats for every guest), Thompson confirmed that for him there is no such thing as a sophomore slump.This spring offering was grounded in nostalgia, a common denominator for young designers these days, but rather than viewing Instagram archives, Thompson looked at his personal story. Highly autobiographical, the collection offered his own take on the Y2K craze he grew up surrounded by, but by way of the eyes of his immigrant experience. “I really wanted to talk about the urban areas that I’ve lived in,” Thompson said backstage, still buzzing with energy after the show. “From New York to Atlanta or Jersey, I really wanted to cater to that experience,” he added in reference to the “I heart TP” motifs on his tees and the sequined graffiti prints he included on fitted trousers, tank tops, minidresses, and skirts, the latter two worn by Precious Lee and Adut Akech, respectively.“Looking at the late ’90s and early 2000s, Tom Ford really inspired me,” Thompson said. “His clothing was just so comfortable, and I think sexy is comfortable. And I really wanted to champion that nostalgia in this collection.” With silk button-downs and dresses, bedazzled baby tees and tank tops, slinky lamé dresses, and tailoring (that was just the right amount of oversized) layered over a Lurex mesh tank top or silk shirting, the Jamaican-born designer found a perfectly suitable level of comfortably sultry. The Ford references were overt, particularly in the silk shirting and the TP circular logo closures holding sequined button-downs together. Turns out Ford was the perfect reference to pair with Thompson’s nonchalant sensibility. It was refreshing to hear a young designer discuss his references proudly.Thompson said he decided to challenge himself with this collection. He wanted to make his guy feel sexy and provide comfort to the woman who wears his clothes. Enter snakeskin-print boxer briefs, Lurex tank tops, and deftly cut breezy tailoring, the latter of which he sees both his male and female customers pulling off—it was inspired by photos of his parents’ wedding. By looking for both comfort and sexiness, he pushed himself to expand his assortment into an array of highly wearable pieces. He also explored TP logo repeats and buckles. Thompson has a good eye for building commercial signatures that feel unique to his brand; that will serve him well as he moves forward. He also nodded at J’Ouvert, the West Indian carnival celebration, with intricate headpieces and a bikini top.“There’s a big trend of Y2K fashion right now, but I think it’s also because that time was full of creatives, and I’m just happy to be part of that coming back,” he said. “It’s New York bringing that back; that energy has to be lasting and filling.” The energy at today’s show certainly was.
|
José Criales-Unzueta
|
September 14, 2022
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/63225ae6a50112cdb12ea882/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-theophilio-spring-2023-ready-to-wear-credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2023
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Theophilio
|
spring-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-ready-to-wear/theophilio
|
The invite for Edvin Thompson’s Theophilio show was a makeshift Air Jamaica plane ticket, a reminder of the Brooklyn-based, Jamaican-born designer’s heritage and consistent inspiration. He’s embraced his roots through Rastafarian motifs and crochet knits in the past, but Thompson described spring 2022 as his most confident, unabashed celebration of Jamaica’s spirit and iconography. Several looks came in the red, green, black, and yellow stripes of the Rastafari flag, but the silhouettes were quintessentially New York: stretchy, body-skimming, and confidence-raising. One of many catsuits came in the graphic stripe, and while it looked audaciously sexy from afar, a closer look revealed that the fabric had a comforting, velvety burnout texture.Tie-dyed knit catsuits, graphic crochet slips, and curve-hugging mesh dresses struck a similar balance. Backstage after the show, when models typically race to get back in their own clothes and head for the exit, Thompson’s were hanging out and taking selfies, in no rush to strip off their looks. A decade ago, a buzzy new designer might have subjected his models to uncompromising, body-contorting gowns in the name of a vision. Thompson and his emerging designer peers care just as much, if not more, about how their clothes will make people feel.At a preview earlier this week, a small handful of looks were available to see up close, mostly the oversize denim jackets, grommeted jeans, and Rasta-striped separates. Thompson’s publicist vaguely explained that only the ready-to-wear was included in the preview, but it was unclear where that left the rest of this collection. As it turns out, everything else in the show will be made-to-order, which makes sense for the body stockings and slinky gowns. You’d want a perfect fit in the sunset-y striped catsuit, which scooped so low in the back that it necessitated a matching logo thong.
|
Emily Farra
|
September 11, 2021
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/613d1d95745ab6819bde08c1/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-Theophilio-Spring-22-RTW-New-York-Credit-gorunway.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2022
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
|
Tia Adeola
|
spring-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/tia-adeola
|
In lieu of a show, Tia Adeola decided to create a short video to launch her spring 2024 collection, which she premiered at an intimate dinner hosted during NYFW. During a preview at the Black in Fashion Council Discovery Showroom, Adeola explained that her tight spring lineup was an interpretation of her own personal growth. “This collection is about transformation,” she said, nodding to the butterfly appliqués spread throughout most pieces in the lineup. “The butterflies represent growth and hope.”Up until now, Adeola has run her business strictly as direct-to-consumer, but she’s looking to start working with stockists this season. She’s only 26, but has garnered enough attention for this to be a possibility moving forward. Adeola mentioned that her signature ruffle separates remain her top sellers, and there’s enough in this idea for her to expand across categories. As she enters this next stage, she would benefit from tightening her production and finding more finesse. Her eveningwear could use better finishes—baby hems over serged edges would be a start—and she should hold on developing her menswear until she’s buttoned up the women’s. Adeola has potential, but like the butterflies in her collection, she might need a little more time in her cocoon before spreading her wings.
|
José Criales-Unzueta
|
September 15, 2023
|
[
"https://assets.vogue.com/photos/64fcb91706e0d0cae2c077c9/master/w_1280,c_limit/00001-tia-adeola-spring-2024-ready-to-wear-credit-malike-sadibe.jpg"
] |
spring
|
2024
|
ready-to-wear
|
[
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] |
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